white sugar - kaviar gauche

the Autum/Winter 2011 fashion season is all about contrasts
and radical statements. In terms of colours, materials, cuts. Full of references
to the 70ies as the decade of social conflicts. On the one hand,
excessiveness and aggressiveness wage a final battle for an illusion
already lost. On the other hand optimism and hope persist, the hippie
legacy of positive vibes. All this rounded off with classic elements and
geometrical clarity that herald the beginning of a new business decade.
In its distinct, unconventional approach Kaviar Gauche unites the
opposite poles of pungency and sweetness, ardour and coolness, sin
and innocence using eccentric material mixes, drawing inspiration
from rock singer Suzi Quatro or Nico the fallen angel of rock band
Velvet Underground and the natural look of Jane Birkin or lolitaesque
Nastassja Kinski.
The collection’s 50 pieces, including 30 daywear/business outfits and
20 evening outfits is all about reduction to the essential – which doesn’t
exclude the use of contrasting materials like cashmere and latex, wool
and leather, silk and lacquer, though. The designs stand out for their
precise, straight over-sized cuts and range from jumpsuits and culottes
to retro classics like maxi coats and trench coats as well as egg-shaped
coats. The combination of wide cashmere pants and tight-fitting latex
tops or flowing, semi-transparent chiffon pants and a long blazer vest
is exemplary of the collection. It goes without saying that 70s-inspired
feminine bell bottom cuts also feature in the collection and are juxtaposed
with androgynous trouser combinations and silk blouses and
leather skirt combinations for a soft rebel feel. In addition to cool elegance
comfort is a key factor. Using materials like mohair, cashmere,
jersey or angora adorned with subtle lace and embroidery for the
–2– –3–
black pepper/
white sugar
Fall/WINTer
2011
collection’s sensual coats or floorlength multilayer dresses, Kaviar
Gauche creations provide a great sense of well-being. This modernised
form of sensuous purism is at its best when delicate flowing materials
are paired with masculine details such as emphasised collars etc.
Black Pepper / White Sugar – the colour range, too, is all about the
play of contrasts. Designers Alexandra Fischer-Roehler and Johanna
Kühl concentrate on black and white, rounded off by vanilla, caramel
and noisette shades to soften the overall effect.
In its true accessory tradition, Kaviar Gauche has also come up with
about ten new bag designs made from leather and patent leather for
all kinds of occasions – including utility, city and glamorous evening
bags. The label’s signature lamella bags also get a makeover, featuring
chain and wood elements. In addition, bracelets and belts complete the
70ies’ inspired look. The “Black Pepper / White Sugar” theme of the
Autumn/Winter 2011 collection is also at the centre of the continued
collaboration with shoe manufacturer Görtz from Hamburg. Together
with Görtz, the two Berlin-based designers will present 12 new shoe
models, colour-coordinated in black and creme, made from a graphic
patchwork of short fur, crashed and croco print nappa or salmon
leather. Metal elements, rifle buckles or elastics are further highlights.
These eye-catchers are sparingly employed, however, in order to maintain
the overall effect of subtle timelessness.
Of course, the collection is not complete without the traditional wedding
gown. The empire waist dress made from organza comes in a soft
vanilla shade. Its asymmetrical cut reinterprets the classic bride’s gown
for our modern age and perfectly rounds off the entire collection. ♥