PARADISE
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TRAVELLER<br />
Waterfalls, legends and surf<br />
OUR REGION<br />
another boat are 100 to 1,”<br />
Malfitani says.<br />
Unlike neighbouring Chuuk,<br />
Pohnpei doesn’t have any wreck<br />
diving; however, the remnants of<br />
war can be seen on land where<br />
the Japanese left behind tanks and<br />
anti-aircraft guns.<br />
One of Pohnpei’s landmarks is<br />
Sokeh Mountain, visible from the<br />
concrete footpath I’m walking<br />
along in Kolonia. Up there, you<br />
can see the abandoned artillery,<br />
slowly rusting and being overtaken<br />
by the jungle. There’s even a tank<br />
outside the tourist office, in one of<br />
Kolonia’s main streets.<br />
Walking along, I see a bottle<br />
sakau for sale, for $US5. This<br />
concoction is wildly popular in<br />
Pohnpei for its mild narcotic effect.<br />
It’s made from the root of the<br />
pepper plant by pounding it on a<br />
flat stone. The pulp is squeezed<br />
through hibiscus bark and it is<br />
drunk from a shared coconut shell.<br />
But rather than buy a bottle in<br />
town, it’s more authentic to go to<br />
one of the many night-time sakau<br />
gatherings with locals to share<br />
the coconut cup, conversation and<br />
experience of it being made.<br />
And does it taste good?<br />
No way.<br />
Air Niugini flies between Port Moresby and Pohnpei every<br />
Wednesday and Saturday. See airniugini.com.pg.<br />
Jungle juice … islanders in traditional costumes making sakau (top);<br />
Pohnpei landmark Sokeh Mountain (left).<br />
STAYING THERE<br />
Most hotels are in Kolonia,<br />
the largest town on Pohnpei<br />
and also where the airport is<br />
located. Hotels are generally<br />
of three-star standard, and<br />
rooms start from about $US60<br />
a night.<br />
One of the best, and newest,<br />
is the Mangrove Bay Hotel.<br />
The air-conditioned double<br />
rooms (from $US120 a night)<br />
have balconies over the water.<br />
There’s an adjacent sushi<br />
restaurant and an open-air<br />
bamboo bar. Pohnpei Surf<br />
Club boats leave from here for<br />
surfing and diving trips. See<br />
mangrovebaypohnpei.com.<br />
Also, consider The Cliff<br />
Rainbow Hotel (deluxe rooms<br />
from about $US100 a night,<br />
cliffrainbow.com), the 7 Stars<br />
(double rooms from about<br />
$US90, 7starsinn.fm), the<br />
Oceanview Westwing (double<br />
rooms from about $US85), and<br />
the Joy Hotel (double rooms<br />
from about $US100).<br />
VILLAGE STAYS<br />
Live with the locals from<br />
$US50 a day, including<br />
breakfast, lunch and dinner.<br />
Contact Pohnpei Tourism at<br />
pnitourism@gmail.com for<br />
details.<br />
SURFING & DIVING<br />
The Pohnpei Surf Club has<br />
surf packages from about<br />
$US199 a night based on<br />
double occupancy and dive<br />
packages from $US210. See<br />
pohnpeisurfclub.com.<br />
EATING<br />
Thanks to colonisation,<br />
Japanese food is high on the<br />
menu in Pohnpei. Try sushi<br />
at the Mangrove Bay Hotel,<br />
or the Joy Hotel’s Japanese<br />
lunch special. Sei restaurant<br />
has $US5 chicken or pork<br />
curry, said to be the best on<br />
the island.<br />
GETTING AROUND<br />
Hire cars are available from<br />
about $US45 a day, or $US15<br />
an hour. Hire companies<br />
are located at the airport,<br />
or you can arrange through<br />
your hotel. Most taxi trips<br />
are $US1. There is no public<br />
transport on the island, except<br />
for school buses.<br />
TOURING<br />
Tour operators are listed at<br />
visitpohnpei.com, or arrange<br />
tours through your hotel.<br />
MORE INFORMATION Visit the Pohnpei Tourism Office on Facebook, or email pnitourism@gmail.com.<br />
Also, visitpohnpei.com.<br />
38 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine