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PARADISE

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TRAVELLER<br />

Waterfalls, legends and surf<br />

OUR REGION<br />

another boat are 100 to 1,”<br />

Malfitani says.<br />

Unlike neighbouring Chuuk,<br />

Pohnpei doesn’t have any wreck<br />

diving; however, the remnants of<br />

war can be seen on land where<br />

the Japanese left behind tanks and<br />

anti-aircraft guns.<br />

One of Pohnpei’s landmarks is<br />

Sokeh Mountain, visible from the<br />

concrete footpath I’m walking<br />

along in Kolonia. Up there, you<br />

can see the abandoned artillery,<br />

slowly rusting and being overtaken<br />

by the jungle. There’s even a tank<br />

outside the tourist office, in one of<br />

Kolonia’s main streets.<br />

Walking along, I see a bottle<br />

sakau for sale, for $US5. This<br />

concoction is wildly popular in<br />

Pohnpei for its mild narcotic effect.<br />

It’s made from the root of the<br />

pepper plant by pounding it on a<br />

flat stone. The pulp is squeezed<br />

through hibiscus bark and it is<br />

drunk from a shared coconut shell.<br />

But rather than buy a bottle in<br />

town, it’s more authentic to go to<br />

one of the many night-time sakau<br />

gatherings with locals to share<br />

the coconut cup, conversation and<br />

experience of it being made.<br />

And does it taste good?<br />

No way.<br />

Air Niugini flies between Port Moresby and Pohnpei every<br />

Wednesday and Saturday. See airniugini.com.pg.<br />

Jungle juice … islanders in traditional costumes making sakau (top);<br />

Pohnpei landmark Sokeh Mountain (left).<br />

STAYING THERE<br />

Most hotels are in Kolonia,<br />

the largest town on Pohnpei<br />

and also where the airport is<br />

located. Hotels are generally<br />

of three-star standard, and<br />

rooms start from about $US60<br />

a night.<br />

One of the best, and newest,<br />

is the Mangrove Bay Hotel.<br />

The air-conditioned double<br />

rooms (from $US120 a night)<br />

have balconies over the water.<br />

There’s an adjacent sushi<br />

restaurant and an open-air<br />

bamboo bar. Pohnpei Surf<br />

Club boats leave from here for<br />

surfing and diving trips. See<br />

mangrovebaypohnpei.com.<br />

Also, consider The Cliff<br />

Rainbow Hotel (deluxe rooms<br />

from about $US100 a night,<br />

cliffrainbow.com), the 7 Stars<br />

(double rooms from about<br />

$US90, 7starsinn.fm), the<br />

Oceanview Westwing (double<br />

rooms from about $US85), and<br />

the Joy Hotel (double rooms<br />

from about $US100).<br />

VILLAGE STAYS<br />

Live with the locals from<br />

$US50 a day, including<br />

breakfast, lunch and dinner.<br />

Contact Pohnpei Tourism at<br />

pnitourism@gmail.com for<br />

details.<br />

SURFING & DIVING<br />

The Pohnpei Surf Club has<br />

surf packages from about<br />

$US199 a night based on<br />

double occupancy and dive<br />

packages from $US210. See<br />

pohnpeisurfclub.com.<br />

EATING<br />

Thanks to colonisation,<br />

Japanese food is high on the<br />

menu in Pohnpei. Try sushi<br />

at the Mangrove Bay Hotel,<br />

or the Joy Hotel’s Japanese<br />

lunch special. Sei restaurant<br />

has $US5 chicken or pork<br />

curry, said to be the best on<br />

the island.<br />

GETTING AROUND<br />

Hire cars are available from<br />

about $US45 a day, or $US15<br />

an hour. Hire companies<br />

are located at the airport,<br />

or you can arrange through<br />

your hotel. Most taxi trips<br />

are $US1. There is no public<br />

transport on the island, except<br />

for school buses.<br />

TOURING<br />

Tour operators are listed at<br />

visitpohnpei.com, or arrange<br />

tours through your hotel.<br />

MORE INFORMATION Visit the Pohnpei Tourism Office on Facebook, or email pnitourism@gmail.com.<br />

Also, visitpohnpei.com.<br />

38 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

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