Msafiri 2017_3_2

Msafiri March 2017 edition 131 kenya-airways.com
1 / STYLEGUIDE KQ
Connecting Africa to the World
9
Reasons
to Love
London
Sense
of Hope
The Future of
our Elephants
Madagascar’s
Many Secrets
The World’s Most Enigmatic Island
Free to Take Home March 2017

INTRODUCTION / 9
Enjoy Your Flight
“Honesty is
key. It’s
my number
one value”
Meet JUDITH OGUTU, Cabin Manager
at Kenya Airways. Just one of the
many people working to make your journey
a great one. Each and every time.
Msafiri March 2017 edition 131 kenya-airways.com
1 / STYLEGUIDE KQ
Connecting Africa to the World
9
Reasons
to Love
London
Sense
of Hope
The Future of
our Elephants
Madagascar’s
Many Secrets
The World’s Most Enigmatic Island
Cover Photograph
David Yarrow
Free to Take Home March 2017
What brought you to Kenya Airways?
Ever since my first flight on holiday as a
child, I dreamed of taking to the sky as
a member of the cabin crew. I joined
the company as an inflight attendant
fourteen years ago and rose through the
ranks. I get to do what I love, every day.
I thrive on working with people and I’m
passionate about customer service. These
are personal qualities that you need in
this job. I’ve had some of my best days,
my best years here. It has become family.
What do you enjoy most about the job?
I get to see the world, meet new people
and experience different cultures. But
what I love best is the fact that I get to
make so many people feel special. Every
situation is different, so every passenger
deserves a personalised service. Honesty
is key. It’s my number one value. No
matter how difficult the situation, I
always treat people like I would want to
be treated. For me all passengers are
‘VVIP’ – very, very important people.
I make sure that my team understands
this. It’s a great feeling when a flight has
gone well and people are smiling. Or
when someone takes the time to write a
thank-you note. It’s a high-pressure job
with constant challenges. Overcoming
them gives me great satisfaction.
What is your most memorable experience?
There are so many, from lovers saying
goodbye, to newlyweds on their honeymoon,
to the time our CEO personally
served everyone on board! But there’s
one case that really touched me. A man
had booked a flight to Mombasa to say
a final goodbye to his ailing mother. He
was flying in from Europe and his flight
was late arriving. He knew that if he
didn’t make his connecting flight, he
would probably not see his mother in
time. The flight attendants noticed his
distress and got the captain to arrange
that the connecting flight be delayed so
that the man could board. Meanwhile, I
did everything I could to assure him that
he would make it. It was heartwrenching.
Everyday comes with many different
experiences, both happy and sad.
What makes Kenya Airways special?
We offer the best of African hospitality.
Service with a warm, friendly, caring
African touch. We also bring the world
to Africa and take Africa to the world.
It’s not just about providing seamless
connectivity, but also about enabling
growth and development in Africa in a
sustainable way. Improved connectivity
within the continent through Kenya
Airways has led to increased economic
and social development promoting trade
and tourism. I’m so proud to be part of
the Pride of Africa. Positive customer
feedback and incremental successes
along this journey have positioned us as
the leading airline in Africa [see below],
with a state-of-the-art fleet and a
fantastic inflight experience. This is
truly humbling.
Kenya Airways World Travel Awards
• Winner of Best Airline in Africa, 2016
• Winner of Africa’s Leading Airline –
Business Class 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016

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CONTENTS / 11
Travel & Nature
14 Echoing Roar
Victoria Falls
17 Habari
Kenya & the world
30 Let’s Go
to Madagascar
50 Uganda
At a glance
60 London
Nine reasons to love it
67 Guess and Win
Travel quiz
68 Sense of Hope
Protecting wild elephants
68
60
People
24 People to watch
African start-ups
40 Road to Victory
Kenyan athletes in the fast lane
Publisher Kenya Airways | Marketing Director Chris Diaz Corporate Communications Manager Wanjiku Mugo Advertising MediaEdge Interactive Ltd. | Managing Director Esther
Ngomeli Head of Media Rose Kagori Concept, Content & Production G+J Custom Content | CEO Eric Blok Creative Director Loes van Dokkum Managing Editor Helmke van Geel
Art Director Sabine Verschueren Design Merel Diepstraten, Karon Lastdrager, Cynthia Schippers Sub Editors Julia Gorodecky, Tracy Brown Hamilton, Annemarie Hoeve, Ellie Packer, Tim
Pozzi, Nina Siegal Photo Editor Monique Kolmeijer, Markus Seewald Production Manager Hans Koedijker IT Manager Olaf de Jager Contributors Tanveer Badal, Irene Bauer, Leo Bear,
Jackson Biko, Edith Carron, Laura Edwards, Nils Elzenga, Ming Tang Evans, Mark Eveleigh, Nicole Franzen, Jonathan Gregson, Philip Lee Harvey, Desiree Hoving, Alexandra de Jong,
Raymond van Kasterop, Danitsja Kallendorf, Winnie Kiiru, Monique Kitzen, Natascha Mijnhart, Katie Monk, Astrid Nühn, Keiko Oikawa, Shini Park, Claire Peels, Intersection Photos, Joyce
Plokkaar, Diane Sutherland, Jurriaan Teulings, Femke van der Veen, Marieke Verhoeven, Eva de Vries, Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism, Hanna Wieslander, Joanne Wienen, David Yarrow,
Jenny Zarins Translation Concorde Lithography Ready4Print Printer Habo da Costa, Vianen

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CONTENTS / 13
Fly Guide
77 Highlights
Inflight entertainment guide
97 Safari Njema
99 KQ News
103 Flying Blue News
105 Skyteam News
106 Route Maps
113 Cargo
114 Get Comfortable
46 103
Business
52
46 Tea Time
Local leaves go global
52 Power to the People
Renewable energy
57 Forget Work Stress
Handy tips
59 Master That Presentation
Don’t sweat it
87 Msafiri en Français
92 Msafiri 中 文 版
Contact details Kenya Airways Marketing & Corporate Communications, Nairobi, Kenya, +254 20 642 2000, msafiri@kenya-airways.com
Website: kenya-airways.com; Facebook: Kenya Airways; Twitter: @kenyaairways; Instagram: officialkenyaairways
MediaEdge Interactive Ltd. Nairobi, Kenya, +254 20 420 5000 / +254 723 140187 / +254 734 271488, msafiri@mediaedgeke.comG+J Media, Spaklerweg 52, 1114AE Amsterdam,
the Netherlands +31 20 7943500, www.genj.nl.
No part of the contents may be reproduced without prior written permission. While every care is taken to ensure accuracy in preparing the magazine, the publisher and Kenya Airways assume no
responsibility for effects arising therefrom. The publisher has made every effort to arrange copyright in according with existing legislation.
Msafiri is available on all KQ flights and at select hotels and businesses in Nairobi. A digital copy is available free at msafirimag.com

14 / NATURE / Views /
Echoing
Roar
VICTORIA FALLS,
the world’s largest
curtain of falling
water, has been
gnawing its way
through a fracture in
the Southern African
Plateau for eons. Its
1,708-metre-wide
chasm swallows the
mighty Zambezi River
with an echoing roar.
text Jurriaan Teulings
THE LANDSCAPE around the
falls changes quite dramatically from the
wet to the dry season, but the sheer
force of the cascade produces a constant
spray that keeps its environs green yearround.
In April, when the water levels
are at their highest, the spectacle is all
but obscured by an iridescent plume of
inverted rain, rising 400 meters above
the falls. But come November, the roaring
sheet of water has receded into a
series of formidable jumps that become
easier to view without getting drenched,
while rainbows emerge and vanish like
elusive spirits from the depths of the
gorge. Those visiting around full moon
might try their luck and visit the falls
after dark, to catch the eerie spectacle of
lunar rainbows. The liveliest night has to
be New Year’s Eve, when thousands of
visitors gather for the Vic Falls Carnival,
a three-day festival that includes a midnight
countdown like nowhere else on
earth. It is then that the falls truly live
up to its Tokaleya Tonga name: Mosioa-Tunya
– the Smoke that Thunders.
➔
Kenya Airways flies to Harry Mwanga Nkumbula
International Airport from Nairobi’s Jomo
Kenyatta International Airport. The Zambia side
of Victoria Falls is 20 minutes from there by car.

NATURE / 15
Getty Images

HABARI / 17
6The number of days
it takes on average
to climb to the
top of the world’s
tallest free-standing
mountain,
Mount Kilimanjaro.
The Great Rift Valley, which runs across
Kenya, was formed more than 20 million
years ago, after the Earth’s crust split.
Habari
Icon
Muhammad Ali
Muhammad Ali training at the
Salle de Congrès, where his
training alternated with that of
boxing rival George Foreman.
Their schedules regularly crossed
and both camps made every
effort to spy on the opposing
fighter. This photo is one of
the many stunning pictures by
Howard Bingham in the new
limited-edition book, The Fight
(Taschen), by the famous author
Norman Mailer.
Photo 1974 © Howard L. Bingham

18 / HABARI
Nairobi has 391,000
square metres of shopping
malls, making it one of
sub-Saharan Africa’s top
shopping destinations.
Nairobi
Witness zebras and giraffes against
the backdrop of an urban skyline.
Nairobi is one of the few cities in the world
to have a national park inside city limits.
Sky views
A Taste of
the High Life
Enjoy Nairobi’s wide open
skyline while you eat at the
chic, Moroccan-inspired
Nest bar. Perched on the roof
of the luxury boutique hotel
Tribe, the eatery has juicy
burgers and cocktails (like the
Cucumber Mint Martini) to
tantalise your tastebuds.
Indulge in smoking fragrant
shisha outdoors, while sitting
in wide wicker chairs under the
flickering hanging lanterns.
~ tribe-hotel.com Limuru Road,
The Village Market, Gigiri, Nairobi
Newly opened
A Hotel for
the Jet Set
The first Kenyan Hilton
Garden Inn is particularly
well situated for international
business meetings and early
morning travellers. Located
just off Mombasa Road,
only two kilometres from
Jomo Kenyatta International
Airport, the Hilton’s latest
outpost in Nairobi has 171
rooms and suites, a fitness
centre, an outdoor pool and
a sleek interior. The hotel is
part of an ever-expanding
portfolio of Hilton Garden
Inns in Africa.
~ hiltongardeninn.com Mombasa
Road, Nairobi
Nairobi’s
Foodie Favourites
About Thyme
The lush green dining area at
About Thyme makes it one
of Nairobi’s loveliest secret
garden restaurants. The menu
of eclectic dishes includes an
aromatic array, from sweet
potato samosas and coconutbattered
snapper to Greek
moussaka. Every Thursday,
hear live jazz while you eat.
~ about-thyme.com Corner of
Eldama Ravine Road and Peponi
Road, Nairobi
Talking tables
The Talisman
One of the capital’s most
beloved restaurants, featuring
Zanzibar seafood soup and
Talisman Nyati wings, is also
a showcase for contemporary
Kenyan art. A gastrolounge,
sprawling gardens, low
couches, fireplaces and
carved wooden pillars from
Pakistan all add to its charm.
~ thetalismanrestaurant.com
320 Ngong Road, Karen, Nairobi
Quote
“It is the warmth
of human
connectedness
that inspires the
imagination”
– Dr Alex Awiti –
Director, East African Institute, Aga Khan University
Habari Text: Katie Monk
Sasithon Pooviriyakul (The Talisman)

20 / HABARI
The new Shifteye Gallery
in Nairobi is a wonderful
multi-functional art venue,
photographic studio and
events space.
What’s On
Lake Malawi, located between Malawi,
Mozambique and Tanzania, has between
500 and 1,000 fish species, making it
the lake with the largest number of
fish species in the world.
African spotlight
Not Just Opera
Operndorf Afrika or “Opera Village”- located
about 30 kilometres outside of Burkina Faso’s
capital, Ouagadougou - was an art project initiated
by the German filmmaker and theatre director
Christoph Schlingensief in 2009. Now, a school,
hotels, studios, a cafeteria and a festival hall offer
some 250 local students an immersive education in
the arts. Designed by award-winning Burkinabe
architect Diébédo Francis Kéré, it was built using
sustainable principles and local materials.
~ operndorf-afrika.com
Trending now
The Zen Life
On the tiny Lamu Island, off Kenya’s northeast
coast, the blossoming Lamu Yoga Festival has put
Kenya firmly on the health and wellness map. For
the fourth year running, yogis new and old will gather
on the beautiful island for classes and workshops.
~ lamuyoga.org 8-12 March
Q&A
Eye Opener
Self-taught multidisciplinary artist Cyrus Kabiru creates
elaborate eyewear out of scrap metal and objects he picks up
off the streets of Nairobi. He’s been featured in exhibitions
all over the world. Here, he chats to Msafiri about his
childhood, and how art impacts our view of the world.
You’ve worked and exhibited in many different countries. How do you feel art
relates to culture?
Art brings people together, not just with its message, but through cultural
references, too. If you want to get to know someone, start by getting to
know their culture. Art’s a great place to start.
What was your inspiration behind C-Stunners, the photography project in
which you made spectacles from scrap objects?
I got the inspiration from my father, who wore glasses when he was a boy.
One day, he dropped and broke them, and was beaten by my grandmother.
Needless to say, he grew to hate glasses after that. I wasn’t
allowed to wear them, so I began to make them instead.
How do you think African art has changed over the past few years?
Art is changing big-time, especially in East Africa. No one knew or even
talked about East African art before. Most of us used to be storytellers;
now we’re transforming this art into visual art, which is a big change.
What gives you the greatest sense of pride?
I’ve had exhibitions in big museums all over the world. I’ve travelled to
more than twenty countries and I’ve built my own studio. Just being an
artist makes me proud.
Lennart Laberenz (Not Just Opera), Shutterstock (The Zen Life)

Rock paintings are the oldest
known form of African art, as
much as 27,000 years old. Find
600 preserved sites in South
Africa’s Drakensberg mountains.
Arts & Culture
HABARI / 23
South Africa boasts the most art
museums of any nation on the continent.
These include the South African
National Gallery in Cape Town and the
Pretoria Art Museum in Pretoria.
Gallery scene
Exhibiting
East African Art
Photography
Portraits of Grace and Strength
Emerging talent
Nairobi’s
Newest Art
This March Nairobi’s multidisciplinary
GoDown Arts
Centre is exhibiting the
artworks of both practicing
artists and students at the
annual Manjano Visual Arts
Exhibition, which is focused
on Nairobi’s emerging talent.
~ thegodownartscentre.com
Industrial Area, Nairobi
Situated on the outskirts of
Nairobi, the Banana Hill Art
Gallery is an art-lover’s gem,
exhibiting works by East
African contemporary artists.
It started in 1994 as a studio
for a group of twelve artists,
and in 2006, artist Shine Tani
and his wife, Rahab, became
the legal owners of the
gallery. Today, it represents
more than 70 African artists.
~ bananahillartgallery.com
Banana Raini Road, Nairobi
➔
Nigerian-British furniture designer,
Yinka Ilori, draws inspiration from
his Nigerian heritage. You can see
his work at Cape Town’s Design
Indaba Festival, 1-4 March.
The Swedish photojournalist Fredrik Lerneryd spent a year
following a group of young dancers in Nairobi. The ballerinas
and ballerinos from the Kibera neighbourhood study dance
for fun, not to become professionals, but he captures the great
power of their performances.“It’s important to question your
own stereotypes on subjects,” says Lerneryd. “When I saw
these children, I felt really moved.” You can see more of
Lerneryd’s work on Instagram: @lerneryd.
~ fredriklerneryd.com
Quote
James Muriuki (Nairobi’s Newest Art), Veerle Evens (Design Indaba Festival)
“Fabrics, food
– everything
about my
culture inspires
my work”
– Nigerian-British designerYinka Ilori –

24 / HABARI
Addis Ababa lies at an
elevation of 2,300 metres,
and rises as high as 3,000
metres at the northern
Entoto Mountains.
People
The Zanzibar Archipelago is made up of
many islands. The larger islands include
Unguja, with beautiful beaches,
and Pemba, with unspoiled reefs.
Start-up scene
African start-ups are tackling issues
from girls’ schooling to fair coffee
“Vava is quietly
accumulating praise
for its fair trade
practices”
Vava Angwenyi, founder of Vava
Coffee, Kenya
Entrepreneur Vava Angwenyi
started her specialty coffee
agribusiness Vava Coffee in
2009, making hand-crafted
micro-lot coffee from beans
sourced from over 30,000
small-hold farmers in
Mount Kenya and the Rift
Valley. The company has
been quietly accumulating
accolades for its fair trade
practices: it pays farmers
an above-average wage and
provides work for women,
some of whom are HIV
positive. She’s aiming to raise
$1 million this year so she
can reach 130,000 farmers
by 2018.
Barclay Paul Okari, founder of
Impact Africa Industries, Kenya
When Barclay Paul Okari
volunteered in a girls’ school,
he noticed that girls were
staying home during menstruation
and missing up to
three months of classes a
year due to a lack of sanitary
products. His company,
Impact Africa Industries,
launched in 2010, now
supplies more than 1,300
schools across East Africa
with sanitary pads, keeping
at least 125,000 girls in
school. The enterprise, which
is located in Kitale, a small
town in western Kenya,
currently employs 80 people.
“Girls were missing
months of school
a year due to lack of
vital resources”
“A charity that teaches polo
to the orphans of Abuja”
Uneku Atawodi, PoloTechPreneur, Nigeria
Uneku Atawodi was the first black
female professional polo player in the
world. She also holds a master’s
degree in international business and
Spanish, as well as a bachelor’s in
equestrian science. In 2013, this
self-described PoloTechPreneur
launched Ride To Shine, an African
charity that teaches polo to orphans
in the Nigerian capital of Abuja.
Jackson Biko
Resolutions
At the start of a new year people tend to talk about fitness,
and when Nairobi talks about fitness it’s a real colourful
conversation. I went to the Adidas shop at The Hub Karen
shopping mall to look for running shoes. There was a customer
with a thick neck who kept telling another man (with
a not-so-thick neck) that “it’s all about portions, buddy. It’s
all about portions.” You get a lot of free fitness and health
advice from customers in sports shops if you stand still for
a moment.
I wanted to chime in and say that I struggle with portions
too – everybody I know struggles with portions. Portions are
just the devil, aren’t they? But I didn’t because I was rather
intimidated by the size of his neck.
I, like thousands of Nairobians, had resolved to get fit, to
detox, to live healthier and more fulfilling lives in 2017. Old
hat. At first, the bypasses were full of wide-eyed enthusiasts
in new gear running in colourful apparel, the gyms crammed
with newbies who hog the bench only to press 15kg. Healthy
smoothies have been a thing − even the ones with avocado.
Men want to be lean and agile, women want to fit into jeans
they fit in two years ago. It’s a magnificent farce because,
despite those most noble recent intentions, nobody is actually
pushing 15kg in the bench press anymore. Thank God! At the
Adidas shop I picked a yellow running shoe and held it up in
wonderment. It caught all the light in the shop like a rare
stone. I have always wanted yellow shoes since I was a child.
Late last year, a lady told me, “I didn’t know you had a
muffin top” I didn’t know what that was, so she pinched a
good chunk of fat around my midsection. “This, here,” she
said, “is a muffin top.” The next day I stopped eating my customary
three chapatis for dinner. It’s amazing how a woman
can transform a man by pinching him, like our mothers did.
The man with a thick neck picked some lime-coloured
shoes that looked like an avocado smoothie. I asked him
where he runs and he said, “Karura Forest”, as I do. We then
exchanged numbers. He has never showed up once for our
run. That’s Nairobi for you: early in the year, we take in
large portions of optimism.
Hannah Wieslander (Illustration Jackson Biko), Michael B. Maine (Portrait Vava Angwenyi),
BuoArt (Portrait Barclay Paul Okari), Alamy (Portrait Uneku Atawodi)

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Cooperative (“KPMG International”), a Swiss entity. All rights reserved.

26 / HABARI
Khartoum, the capital of Sudan,
means “elephant trunk” in Arabic.
That’s the shape of the bend that
the Nile River makes as it flows
north from the city.
Gadgets
Travel gadgets
Lagos in Nigeria has become a hub
for pan-African technology companies such as
iRoko, Jumia, Konga and MallforAfrica.
Music to
Our Ears
1
Ventura PB60 portable charger
This portable charger will make sure you never
run out of battery life again. Perfect for travelling
– as well as day-to-day use – the Ventura PB60
is brightly coloured so you won’t lose it at the
bottom of your bag or tent, and it folds away for
easy storage.
~ snooper.co.uk £39.99
2
Lindy BNX-60 headphones
These wireless noise-cancelling headphones
are designed for listening to music on the move.
The soft leather pads promise to deliver crystalclear
sound and reduce external noise by up to
85 percent. The BNX-60 also boast Bluetooth
compatibility and an integrated microphone.
With separate volume and playback controls on
the headphones themselves, you can keep your
phone out of sight. But it’s on flights that they
really come into their own: plug them into the
entertainment socket and watch a film in peace.
~ lindy-international.com £119.90
3
Sony Cube SRS-X11
portable mini Bluetooth speaker
The Sony Cube is a small speaker that packs
a powerful punch. It connects to Bluetooth,
and has a 10-watt audio that delivers a
balanced sound and powerful bass. Able to
stream music direct from your smartphone,
it’s ideal for travelling.
~ sony.co.uk £69 each
Tech talk
Lucky Number 7
Apple’s latest smartphone, known
by some as simply “7”, has some
real new advantages, as well as a
couple of drawbacks.
Promoted as the fastest Apple smartphone
yet, the iPhone 7 and the
iPhone 7 Plus include several upgrades
from the previous version, including
longer battery lives of any iPhone yet.
The camera has two lenses that act as one,
taking crystal-clear images, able to shoot
images of 12 megapixels. But perhaps the
improvement that will make people the
happiest is the fact that the iPhone 7 is
splash-resistant – in fact, a Siberian
fisherman even claimed it survived a
13-hour dunk in icy waters. The
downsides: it has no headphone jack,
and no expandable storage.
~ apple.com/iphone-7
3
1
2
Inspired to buy? See our
shopping magazine Karibu.
ANP (Lucky Number 7), Luke Hickman (Lindy BNX-60 headphones)

30 / TRAVEL / Madagascar
Intersection Photos

TRAVEL / 31
MYSTERY
ISLAND
Lying like a giant exclamation mark
off the eastern flank of Africa,
MADAGASCAR has mystified travellers
since time immemorial.
text Mark Eveleigh
Getty Images

32 / TRAVEL / Madagascar
Previous pages
Left: Bathers at Jardin
Vanille Beach, Nosy Komba
Right: Isalo National Park
MADAGASCAR seems to have the ability to confuse
even the most experienced of travellers. To anyone setting foot
on its terra firma for the very first time, it has been an island
of unfathomable mystery.
My first visit to the island had been a research trip for a
book I was writing, and I was wary that first impressions
could be misleading. It’s always good to try to travel without
preconceived ideas, but Madagascar is one of those countries
that has the power to evoke irresistible images of mysterious
tropical lands. As the plane descended into Antananarivo I
had to work hard to resist the impression that I was landing,
not in Africa, but in Asia. Great rice terraces rippled across
the landscape looking, from the air, as if a stone had been
dropped into a gleaming emerald pond. As we eased lower
I could see pastel-coloured houses lining the hillsides, like
banks of sun-faded flowers on a red brick wall. Zebu carts and
rickshaws trailed wispy clouds of ochre dust along twisting
dirt tracks.
One traveller, noting the dusty red aspect of the island,
claimed that Madagascar has the colour, hardness and fertility
of a brick. He couldn’t have been more wrong.
1
“This island is home to about half
of the world’s chameleon species”
MOTHER NATURE
In 1298 Marco Polo described Madagascar’s incredible
riches: “More elephants are bred here than in any other
province,” he wrote. “They have leopards and lynxes and lion
also in great number.”
The truth, could he have known it, was far more spectacular:
while none of the animals Polo mentioned are found on the
island, around 80 percent of Madagascar’s natural life exists
only here, on what has been called the eighth continent. Set
adrift from the rest of Africa over 135 million years ago, like
some gargantuan ark, Madagascar’s wildlife has exploded
into dynamic forms that are unimagined in other parts of
the world.
The island has become known as one of the most fascinating
wildlife destinations on the planet and the stars of the show
are the lemurs. Primitive relatives of the monkeys, they’re the
clowns and acrobats that enliven every visit to the island.
There are almost 100 species of lemur, ranging from the aptly
named pygmy mouse lemur (weighing in at just 30 grams) to
the 9kg Indri.
If there’s anything more overwhelming than the first sighting
of a giant Indri lemur, it is being woken by its wailing call. I’d
pitched my tent close to the ranger station in Andasibe-Mantadia
National Park, a three-hour drive east of the capital, to be
within earshot of what is said to be the most unforgettable
dawn alarm-call in the world. As it turned out, I could have
camped 3km away and still have heard the Indri’s air-raid
siren wake-up call. The spectacular Indri, like a seven-year-old
child in a panda suit, might be Andasibe-Mantadia’s >
Where to stay
BUDGET
Marie Guesthouse
(guesthousemarieandasibe.com;
tel: +261 341 809 419) represents
great value at only US$10 (for a
double room). It is a great first port
of call for advice on forays into
Andasibe-Mantadia National Park.
MID-RANGE
Sakamanga Hotel
(sakamanga.com; tel: +261 202
235 809, is ideally located in central
Antananarivo. An upgrade to the
suites (around US$50) guarantees
something a little bit more special.
Sakamanga boasts a charming pool
and garden, as well as a restaurant.
HIGHER END
Nature Lodge
(naturelodge-ambre.com; tel: +261
342 012 306), is an exclusive ecolodge
near Amber Mountain. Idyllic
chalets (from US$83 for a double)
overlook the mountains or bay.
Above (top):
Antananarivo;
(bottom left) chameleon
at the Mandraka Reptile
Park, Tana
Opposite page (top):
Tsingy de Bemaraha,
UNESCO World Heritage
Site; (bottom left)
a “dancing” Verreaux
Sifaka, Berenty Reserve
This page: Jenny Zarins (top), Intersection Photos (bottom left), Tanveer Badal (bottom right).
Opposite page: Shutterstock (above), Philip Lee Harvey (bottom left), Jenny Zarins (bottom right).

TRAVEL HABARI //33

34 / TRAVEL / Madagascar
“Madagascar is the world’s
most enigmatic island.
It has an endless potential
to fascinate”
Philip Lee Harvey

Jenny Zarins
TRAVEL / 35

36 / TRAVEL / Madagascar

TRAVEL / 37
Previous pages
Left: Avenue of the Baobabs,
near Morondava
Right: Constance Lodge
Tsarabanjina Nosy Be
Left: Dugout canoe,
Nosy Komba
Right: The Red Tsingy
of Antsiranana
Left page (top):
Camp Catta, near
Andringitra National Park;
(bottom right) Road towards
Morondava
Left page: Tanveer Badal (above), Jenny Zarins (left below), Philip Lee Harvey (right below).
Right page: Intersection Photos (left), Shutterstock (right).
main drawcard but the golden bamboo lemur, with which it
shares these forests, ought to take first prize for
evolutionary inventiveness: it eats enough cyanide every day
in its bamboo diet to kill an animal twelve times its size.
“These animals were unknown to science until 1986,” my
ranger-guide whispered as twenty of these snub-nosed teddy
bears leapt through the canopy. “It’s hard to imagine that
there aren’t other creatures in Madagascar to be discovered.”
The acrobatic ring-tailed lemur – which makes its home in
the spiny forests of Isalo National Park – is certainly the most
famous of the island’s lemurs, but the bizarre Aye-aye might
be the most unusual animal you will ever see (best spotted on
Aye-Aye Island in the northeast). In a land devoid of woodpeckers,
this lemur has filled the same niche and hunts insects
under the bark of trees with its trumpet-like ears and one
dexterously probing, fantastically oversized finger. The Ayeaye
was considered so outlandishly weird that when the first
stuffed specimen was taken to the British Museum, experts
rejected it as a particularly amateur taxidermist’s hoax.
CHAMELEON ISLAND
Throughout the centuries Madagascar has been the source
of countless doubtful rumours that were at least half true:
the legend of Sinbad’s Roc (a mighty bird capable of flying
off with elephants) was based on the “rukh” which Marco
Polo wrote about in 1298. Known to science as the Aepyornis,
it was three or four times the size of an ostrich.
On Madagascar it’s not the size that counts however: at
just 2cm long the tiny Brookesia micra chameleon is considered
to be a divinity by many Malagasy. I hiked the forested
flanks of Amber Mountain National Park in the vain hope
of spotting one. Instead I found butterflies by the thousands
and a fair collection of Madagascar’s other iconic chameleons.
This island is home to about half of the world’s
chameleon species. Famed as nature’s camouflage experts,
chameleons are normally notoriously hard to spot. Here
however, they are so common that you seem to see them
everywhere, sometimes sticking up from the top of every
bush like big green thumbs. Their protruding pivotal eyes
literally give them eyes in the back of their heads, leading to
their protection in Madagascar as spiritual creatures that are
capable of seeing not only the past but also the future.
Most Malagasy also protect snakes as embodiments of
the ancestors so they are commonly seen all over the island.
It is a happy coincidence, therefore, that among the 80 snake
species there isn’t a single one that is dangerous to humans.
As naturalist David Attenborough said: “Madagascar is
an unrepeatable experiment – a set of unique animals and
plants evolving in isolation for over 60 million years. We are
still trying to unravel its mysteries; how tragic it would be if
we lost it before we even understood it.” >
“There are 25 national parks, of which
7 are listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites”
– Roland Ratsiraka –
Madagascar’s Best
Top island highlights from Madagascar
Minister of Tourism, Roland Ratsiraka
Pure Wilderness
“Madagascar is still so incredibly wild. It is home to many
species of flora and fauna that are unique to the island − like
the lemur and one of the world’s smallest frogs, measuring
up to just three centimetres. New species are discovered
regularly. The marine life is another big draw. Migrating
humpback whales can be sighted off the eastern coast from
June to November – an unforgettable experience!”
Stunning Landscape
“From the iconic baobab trees and the lush green forests
of the east to the stunning beaches in the northeast, the
landscape is highly diverse. There are 25 national parks,
of which 7 are listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
A US$300-million World Bank and Green Climate Fund
programme is in place to counter deforestation.”
Great Adventure
“Get behind the wheel of a 4x4 to go off the beaten path
or climb the dramatic jagged peaks of Tsingy de Bemaraha
National Park. These razor-sharp limestone towers will
impress even the most seasoned rock climbers.”
Don’t miss
“There is so much to discover, it would be a shame not to
venture beyond the capital. Antsiranana (formerly Diego
Suarez) and Nosy Be island in the north, Toamasina in the
east, and Toliara and Morondava in the south are all mustsees!
Be sure to sample the local cuisine as well, with its
focus on natural ingredients and pure flavours. Especially the
seafood – lobster, crab, it’s all extremely fresh.”
Secret getaway
“I go to Île Sainte-Marie, an island off the eastern coast, with
forests and a beautiful 70km-stretch of sandy beach. You can
swim here all year round.”

38 / TRAVEL / Madagascar
Left (clockwise
from top left):
Jardin Vanille Beach,
Nosy Komba;
Comet moth; Amber
Mountain National Park
What to eat
“People tend to come primarily
for the wildlife, but a trip here
is about people and culture as well”
Romazava
The national dish is a stew of meat
and vegetables flavoured with onion,
garlic and ginger, served with rice.
Seafood
Look out for grilled lobsters, giant
shrimp, mud crabs and incredible
fresh fish. These will often be eaten
with coconut rice, mango pickles and
rougaille (diced tomato with onion,
garlic, lemon, salt and pepper).
Mofo Gasy
The ubiquitous street food of
sweetened bread balls made from
rice flour, which are eaten for
breakfast or as a snack.
Vanilla Rum
Be sure to sample this local spirit.
In many parts of Madagascar, it’s
traditional to throw the first capful
into the northeast corner of the room
as an offering to the ancestors.
MALAGASY MELTING POT
“What most surprises first-time visitors is the cutureshock,”
says Patrick Dima Randriamboavonjy, a local travel
guide. “People tend to come to Madagascar primarily for the
wildlife, but a trip here is about people and culture as well.”
With Madagascar’s two-legged inhabitants, as with the
wildlife, legend often mixes with truth and it can be hard to say
where one ends and the other begins. The capital Antananarivo
was established in 1799 after a king with the convoluted name
– even by Malagasy standards – of Andrianampoinimerina,
but historians are uncertain as to the identity of the first
Malagasy. Madagascar lies just 400km off the coast of
mainland Africa yet the powerful, shark-patrolled currents
of the Mozambique Channel did more to isolate it than the
vast expanse of the Indian Ocean.
During my first trip to the highlands of Madagascar I’d
been surprised to meet people from the powerful Merina
tribe who are almost indiscernible from the inhabitants of
western Indonesia. And in far-off Nias Island (off the coast of
Sumatra) I found tribesmen who recognised elements of the
complex Malagasy language in their own tribal tongues.
Beyond Madagascar’s central plateau I met people from all
of the island’s official eighteen tribes and became increasingly
stunned by the sheer diversity of Madagascar’s culture: many
among the Antaimoro (guardians of sacred texts in ancient
Arabic) and the Antambahoaka still have Arabic features; the
Bara and Antanosy people of the southern cactus deserts
would slip unnoticed through the Mozambican fishing villages
of their forefathers; while the Mahafaly are known as ‘the
makers of taboos’ and the Sakalava were the fearless warriors
of the western savannah.
Nobody really knows who the first Malagasy were, but even
today islanders talk of the legendary Vazimba – the original
pygmy inhabitants of the island, who were gifted with magical
powers. Some say that in isolated parts of the world’s fourth
largest island, they still exist. “Their descendants are still here
among us,” people told me, “but these days they’re taller – and
can only be recognised by their magic.”
It is likely to remain one of the many unsolved mysteries
of what could be the world’s most enigmatic island. But then
in a place that has such potential to fascinate, almost any trip
you make here is likely to leave you with a burning ambition to
see more.
➔
Plan your trip
Book your flight to Madagascar
on kenya-airways.com
Intersection Photos (top left), Jenny Zarins (top right), Getty Images (bottom).

Getty Images
40 / PEOPLE / Champions

PEOPLE / 41
Road
to
Victory
The high hills of Kenya’s
Rift Valley are known
for producing some of the
world’s MOST ELITE
RUNNERS. They bring
home bronze, silver
and gold medals from
AROUND THE
WORLD and make
their fellow Kenyans
proud. Meet six of the
country’s athletic greats.
text Eva de Vries
On 26 March the famous IAAF World Cross
Country Championship will be held in Uganda at
the Kampala Kololo Independence grounds.
This is the second time the championship
will be held in Africa. The majority of the teams
will be flown in by KQ and Skyteam partners.

42 / PEOPLE / Champions
“We have young,
upcoming athletes.
But I still have a chance,
I’m still young”
Getty Images
Personal best 800m:
1:40:91 minutes
David
Rudisha
Born:
17 December 1988, Kilgoris, Kenya
Discipline:
800m
Milestones:
2012 and 2016 Olympic champion, world champion
and world record holder in the 800m. Rudisha is the
first and only person to run it in under 1:41 minutes.
Twitter:
@rudishadavid
BORN TO PARENTS who were also talented runners,
David Rudisha attended St Patrick’s High in Iten, known as
the Home of Champions, for nurturing many top runners.
Originally Rudisha was a 400m runner, but his coach Colm
O’Connell convinced him to give the 800m a try. The Irish
missionary with no coaching background went on to be
nicknamed the “godfather of Kenyan running” after 25 of
his students became world champions. He proudly considers
Rudisha one of his greatest athletes: “Any coach would love
to have a David Rudisha in their lives, but most never do.”
After becoming the junior world champion for the 800m
in 2006, Rudisha achieved many international victories. With
a father who won silver in the 4x400m relay at the 1968 games,
Rudisha considers winning gold at the London 2012 Olympics
his own greatest running achievement. “It would be good for
me to win gold, so we can have gold and silver in our family,”
he said before the race. His current world record was set that
day; he ran the 800m in 1:40.91.
“Bolt was good, but Rudisha was magnificent,” says
Sebastian Coe, the president of the International Association
of Athletics Federations, referring to Jamaican sprinter Usain
Bolt, the fastest human ever timed.“It was the most
extraordinary piece of running I have probably ever seen.”
After the London Olympics, Rudisha suffered a series of
injuries, but got back on track in time for last year’s Olympics
in Rio, where he successfully defended his title. He looks to
the future, and the 2020 Olympics in Tokyo, with optimism.
“If I’m still feeling good and my body is still responding… in
2020 I’ll be 31, so still a good age to be running.” Away from
the track, Rudisha works for the Kenyan traffic police. If you
don’t stop, he’ll run you down in seconds.

PEOPLE / 43
“I said I want to win,
and I went
with everything”
Getty Images
VIVIAN CHERUIYOT was born in the rural Keiyo
district in the centre of Kenya’s Rift Valley. This high-altitude
region of fresh air and challenging hills is known for spawning
unbeatable long-distance runners. “I started running because
of a sports day at school,” Cheruiyot says. “I was good at it,
and really enjoyed it.”
Running soon became her life. Her breakthrough came
in 1999, when at age 15, she won the junior silver medal at the
world cross-country championships in Belfast. “My Kenyan
diet of ugali and lots of vegetables helped me get stronger.”
The up-and-coming athlete was soon nicknamed Pocket
Rocket because of her small, powerful body. Her long-time
manager Ricky Simms says that Cheruiyot possesses an
explosive pace and killer kick finish. Before taking time off
to start a family with her husband and coach Moses Kiplagat,
Cheruiyot took home bronze at the 2012 London Olympics.
After her son’s birth the following year, Cheruiyot was
back to training, determined to chase the only medal that
was missing from her collection.
“I’ve won the world championships five times and have
Olympic silver and bronze medals, but not the gold,” she once
said.“I want a gold in 2016.” In Rio, her dream came true: she
won gold for the 5,000m. “It means a lot to Kenya,” Cheruiyot
said after the race. “I’ve been dreaming about this since the
very start. Anything is possible.”
Having achieved everything there is to achieve on the
track, Cheruiyot has a new challenge on the horizon. This
year, she’ll be making her marathon debut. “Another goal of
mine is to move on to the ultimate distance,” she explains.
In December 2016, Cheruiyot received Kenya’s Female Athlete
of the Year Award for her incredible running career.
Personal best 5,000m: 14:20:89
Vivian
Cheruiyot
Born:
11 September 1983, Keiyo, Kenya
Discipline:
Track and cross-country running
Milestones:
2016 Olympic champion in the 5,000m,
and world champion in the 5,000m,
10,000m and cross-country.
Twitter:
@VivianCheruiyot

44 / PEOPLE / Champions
“Athletics is not so
much about the legs.
It’s about the
heart and mind”
Hollandse Hoogte
Personal best marathon:
2:03:05 hours
Eliud
Kipchoge
Born:
5 November 1984, Nandi County, Kenya
Discipline:
Long-distance running
Milestones:
2016 Olympic marathon, 2016 London
marathon, 2015 Berlin marathon and 2014
Chicago marathon champion. Gold in the
5,000m at the 2003 world championships.
Twitter:
@EliudKipchoge
“I STILL REMEMBER running to school as a child,”
Eliud Kipchoge says, although he didn’t start seriously until
he was in his teens. Kipchoge grew up in the northern Rift
Valley, close to the previous world champion, Patrick Sang.
“I wanted to be like him,” he remembers. Sang agreed to
write training programmes for Kipchoge and they developed
a strong bond.
Kipchoge devoted the first decade of his running career to
running 3,000m and 5,000m track races. In 2012, he started
moving towards half and full marathons. A year later, he took
first place in the 2013 Hamburg marathon and many more
victories followed. Last year was a particularly great year for
Kipchoge. At the Olympics in Rio he won gold, making him
the third-fastest marathon runner ever.
“What was in my mind was happiness,” Kipchoge said
afterwards. “The last two Olympics I had the bronze and
silver medal, so the 2016 Olympics was really crucial for me.”
Kipchoge is known as the Zen Master of the Marathon
for his simple lifestyle. His victories have brought him wealth,
but he doesn’t live a luxurious lifestyle. “One of the most
important things about running is being humble,” Kipchoge
says. “I am happy to stay in a small house with other athletes,
work with the group, wash clothes and chop vegetables.”
After his victory in Rio, Kipchoge says he still hopes to
break the marathon world record, but he won’t say when his
attempt will take place. Despite all his victories, he tries not to
take himself too seriously.
“Even after retirement, I’ll still jog in big-city marathons,”
he says. “I want to make a big mark in athletics so I can be a
good example to kids.”

PEOPLE / 45
“It’s such a blessing
to win gold on my debut
at the Olympics”
Getty Images
LIKE SO MANY other Kenyan athletes, Conseslus
Kipruto ran his first kilometres in the Rift Valley. But he
started out playing football. In high school, Kipruto’s head
teacher encouraged him to stop chasing the ball and go after
his real talent: running. Japter Keter took over as his coach
and still trains him today. “I’ll never forget when he told me
that I have everything to be a successful runner,” says Kipruto.
And so, it began. In 2010, he won the 2,000m steeplechase
at the East African youth championships in Eritrea. “It was
my first international competition, and Asmara seemed like
such a beautiful city,” Kipruto says. Afterwards, he travelled
the world and won more championships. Apparently, his
coach was onto something.
But his back and hamstring gave him problems in 2014,
which kept him out of the sport for a whole season. He has
since recovered, and last year was one of the best years of his
career. He qualified for the Olympics in Rio. On day five,
Kipruto cemented his place as the best steeplechase runner in
the world after storming to a new Olympic record and
winning gold in the 3,000m steeple.
With the world’s top medal already around his neck at age
22, the future looks bright for the young Kipruto. “Now I’ve
got the world record on my mind,” he said after his victory.
“I hope to win the world championship in London next year.”
It will be another duel against the current champion and
fellow Kenyan Ezekiel Kemboi, who is twelve years older than
Kipruto, and one of only three men in history to win both
Olympic and World golds in steeplechase. “We are great
friends and I am glad he has not retired yet,’’ says Kipruto.
“He is encouraging me to aim higher.”
Personal best 3,000m
steeplechase: 8:00:12 minutes
Conseslus
Kipruto
Born:
8 December 1994, Nakuru, Kenya
Discipline:
Steeplechase
Milestones:
2016 Olympic champion and
Olympic record holder in the 3000m
steeplechase. 2011 world youth and
2012 world junior champion in the
2000m and 3000m steeplechase.
Twitter:
@KipConseslus

46 /BUSINESS / Tea
TEA
TIME
The story of KENYAN TEA is
merely a century old. But already
the nation is the world’s third largest
producer of the PRECIOUS
LEAVES and the single largest
exporter of black tea.
text Nils Elzenga photography Jonathan Gregson

BUSINESS / 47
KENYANS ARE PROUD of their
tea – and rightly so. It is the country’s
leading agricultural export product
before cut flowers and coffee. It is Kenya’s
top foreign exchange earner, providing
livelihoods to some five million Kenyans.
And it is the drink that warms up the
nation every single morning. Professional
tea blenders love Kenyan tea for its
bright copper colour, crisp flavour and
well-balanced sharpness, attributes
which all add up to a very refreshing cup
of tea. Tea sommeliers organise special
workshops around famous Kenyan
blends. And the drink itself is becoming
increasingly necessary in a culture that
craves a bit of time out now and again.
As tea sommelier Cynthia Gold puts it,
“Fine teas permit people to take a little
bit of time.”
says George Omuga, the general manager
of Ngorongo Tea Company.
With an annual production of six
million kilograms on 1,200 hectares of
rolling hills in Kiambu county just outside
Nairobi, Ngorongo Tea ranks as a
medium-sized tea company by Kenyan
standards. It’s a member of the Kenya
Tea Growers Association, a group
that unites most medium-sized and
large producers. “Membership is very
beneficial,” says Omuga, “as it allows us
to collectively negotiate and overcome
challenges. Together, we stand strong.”
PLANTING THE SEEDS
When he brought the first tea seedlings
to Kenya from India in 1903, it
certainly did not occur to British settler
G.W.L. Caine that he was about to plant
the seeds for a thriving industry. In fact,
all Caine really wanted to do was decorate
the gardens of his family’s Nairobi estate.
A few decades passed before a
desperate Scotsman, Arnold Butler
McDonell unleashed the commercial
potential of tea in Kenya. After years of
failed attempts to grow coffee and other
crops on his farm Kiambethu, McDonell
planted eight hectares of Camellia
Sinensis (the species of plant from
which all tea varieties derive) in 1918.
To his delight, the bushes thrived. When
McDonell could finally harvest the
plants some ten years later, he became
Africa’s very first tea farmer. Today,
McDonell’s granddaughter manages the
farm, also a popular tourist destination.
LIVING OFF THE LAND
McDonell had shown just how
perfect Kenya’s climate and geography
are for growing tea. Most Kenyan tea is
grown in the highlands west of the East
African Rift, on altitudes between 1,000
and 1,700 metres above sea level, in rich
alluvial and volcanic soils. Kenya’s
location on the equator guarantees an
extremely stable climate: twelve hours
of daily sunlight, coupled with 1,200
to 1,400 millimetres of annual precipitation,
which falls evenly throughout
the year. “Our sun and rainfall ensures
a steady supply of high quality tea,”
says Ogola. Adding to this is the >
THRIVING BUSHES
The success story of Kenyan tea is
one of remarkable vision, management
and organisation. According to interim
director Samuel Ogola, Kenya’s Tea
Directorate, the leading government
authority in the regulation and development
of everything related to tea in
Kenya, is central to this as it licenses
factories, provides technical advice to
farmers and handles promotion.
Located along the equator, Kenya
has a pleasant tropical climate perfect
for year-round production. The bushes
thrive in the high-altitude plantations,
growing slowly but steadily, making for
a better quality leaf. Kenya currently
grows around 50 varieties of tea, which
are each developed to suit its seven
tea-growing regions. The country’s tea
growers are organised, too. The Kenya
Tea Development Agency, for example,
unites some 260,000 small-scale tea
farmers, according to Ogola, who
collectively own 67 factories. Together,
the group’s farmers account for some 60
percent of Kenya’s annual tea production
of around 430 million kilograms.
“In total, our sector indirectly supports
11 percent of the Kenyan population,”
“It is grown in the highlands west of the
East African Rift, on altitudes between 1,000 and
1,700 metres, in rich alluvial and volcanic soil”
To crush or to roll?
Most Kenyan black tea is processed
using the “crush, tear and curl”
method. This process sees the leaves
pass through cylindrical rollers
equipped with sharp teeth that grind
the tea into small particles suitable
for use in popular blends. The other
way of tea processing is called
“orthodox”. Here the leaves are left
intact and gently rolled to break down
the cell structure. This sets off an
oxidation process, the length of which
determines the resulting tea type –
white, green, purple, oolong or black.

48 / BUSINESS / Tea
From farm to cup
in ten steps
1
It starts with good soil. The land
must be weeded and then fertilised.
2
Seeds from tea varieties are
carefully selected to suit climatic
and geographic conditions.
3
Seeds are sowd, and tea plants start
to grow and produce leaves.
jonathangregson.co.uk. Special thanks to: yorkshiretea.co.uk/yorkshire-tree
fact that 90 percent of Kenyan tea is
plucked by hand. “What results is a
higher level of consistency. Machines
can never equal human judgment.”
What’s more, the relative cold of
Kenya’s highlands largely frees plants of
pests and diseases. Rather astonishingly,
this allows the whole Kenyan tea sector
to run without the use of pesticides or
other agrochemicals. “It’s all ecological,”
says Wilfred Chepkwony, who works
for the Nairobi office of the Dutch
agricultural group Agriterra, which
provides expert advice to farmer
organisations. “I grew up on a tea
farm in Kericho County and I’ve
never seen any diseases on the plants.
All we ever had to use was fertiliser.”
In 2014, Chepkwony and his
colleagues analysed the tea sector in his
native lands – and sure enough, they
concluded there wasn’t any work to do
for Agriterra. “We didn’t see how we
could add any value, since the tea value
chain was already very well organised,”
says Chepkwony, who says he was able to
have a university education thanks to the
tea his father grew. “Many people would
not be where they are without tea.”
WHITE AND PURPLE VARIETIES
The majority of Kenyan tea is sold
in bulk at the world’s largest multiorigin
tea auction in Mombasa. Nine
countries trade there, says Ogola, but
more than 70 percent of all tea under
the hammer is Kenyan. To be allowed
access to the Mombasa auction, traders
must be members of the East African
Tea Trade Association. Top buyers
include an array of countries, including
Britain, Pakistan, Egypt, Afghanistan
and Sudan.
Although important for the sector,
selling in bulk at auction isn’t without
risk, especially since Kenya largely
produces one tea type: black crush, tear
and curl (see box, page 47). “If prices
drop as they regularly do, the impact is
immediate,” says Ogola. “Particularly
on small farmers.”
To help combat this problem, the
Kenyan government has launched a
“The majority of
Kenyan tea is sold
at the world’s largest
multi-origin tea
auction in Mombasa”
sector-wide diversification programme,
encouraging growers to venture into
specialty teas like white and purple,
and green and black orthodox teas
(see box, page 47), all of which bring in
higher revenues. Ogola says that the
tea development agency has already
equipped three factories with machinery
for orthodox tea production. Six more
will follow next year, and they will keep
increasing at that rate. The agency’s goal
for the sector is to produce 30 percent
specialty and orthodox teas by 2025.”
George Omuga aims even higher.
“We want to increase sales of specialty
and value-added teas – which we have
branded Kenfresh – from the current
20 percent, to 50 percent in five years.
We already grow purple tea, and will
soon venture into orthodox black and
green teas.”
Omuga is confident about the future
of his company and the tea sector as a
whole. “Tea is the world’s most widely
consumed beverage after water,” he says.
“I don’t see this changing anytime soon.”
Ogola shares Omuga’s optimism:
“The story of Kenyan tea is already
pretty amazing. With all these new
developments, it can only get better.”
4
The tea plants are groomed to
grow horizontally instead of vertically,
to make for easier plucking.
5
The plucking can be done “light”
or “hard” depending on the quality
of the field. This refers to the point at
which the shoot is plucked.
6
7
Plucked leaves travel to the factory.
Quality checks are carried out,
both visually and by touch.
8
The selected leaves go through
varying processes, which determine
what kind of tea it will become.
9
The tea is packaged for transport
and ready for consumption.
10
Hot water is added and a delicious
brew results. Just think of all the love
and care that went into that hot cup of
tea you might be drinking at this very
moment!
Blends on board
All tea served on Kenya Airways flights is from
the exquisite brand Kericho Gold, named after
what is perhaps Kenya’s most famous teagrowing
region. Enjoy these flavours:
Kericho Gold Black Tea – envigorating black
tea, renowned for its brisky and rich aroma
Kericho Gold Green Tea – a uniquely delicate
cup, delicious vegetal aroma and subtle taste
Kericho Gold Sweet Peppermint – a refreshing
and uplifting cup, with liquorice and peppermint
Kericho Gold Sweet Camomile – a delicate
and silky tea to soothe your soul
Kericho Gold Blackcurrant – relax into the
juicy, intense and deep flavours of this tea

50 / BUSINESS / Country at a glance
At a glance
Uganda
Have a closer look at the potential of Uganda.
The most relevant FACTS AND FIGURES,
touristic attractions and social trends of today.
Text Monique Kitzen and Desiree Hoving Infographics Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism
Sources: CIA, Focus Economics
Official name: Republic of Uganda
Population: 40 million
GPD: US$25.2 billion
Capital: Kampala
Currency: Ugandan shilling
Local time: GMT+3
Neighbouring
countries: Kenya, Tanzania, Rwanda,
the Democratic Republic of Congo
and the Republic of South Sudan
Languages: English, Luganda, Swahili and
a number of individual languages
GDP divided
in sectors
Manufacturing
Construction
895
1094
7,6%
Mining
213
480
Public Administration
7513
6,3%
Services
Mount Stanley
Mount Stanley Rwenzori
Rw enzori Uganda
Uganda5,109m.
5109 m.
Wildlife
W ildli fe
Uganda is the ideal
place for a quiet and
Uganda is the ideal
peaceful safa ri
place for a quiet
and peaceful
safari.
The world rgest la
freestanding volcano:
The
Mount
world’s
Elgon4321
largest
m.
freestanding volcano:
Mount Elgon 4,321m.
Kampala
Modern capital city
with buzzing life.
Kampala
M odern capital ty ci
with buzzing fe li
Relaxing
The beaches of
Lake Victoria,
world’s largest
tropical lake.
Relaxing
The beaches
of Lake Victoria,
Africa’s la rgest
tropical lake
Source: Trading Economics
Agriculture
2,6%
’10 ’12 ’14 ’16 ’18 ’20
GDP growth compared to
the previous year in Uganda
3733
(in percentages)
amounts x 1 million USD
Gorillas
There are only 880 mountain
gorillas and 400 of them are
found in Bwindi Impenetrable
National Park (Uganda).
Gorill a’s
There ar only 880 mountaingorill
a’s and 400 of them re found a in
Bwindi Impenetrable ational N Park
Sources: Uganda Tourism Board, WWF

TAXI
BUSINESS /51
1. Uganda has
a growing
community of
fashion designers
1
2. Uganda has 200
private radio stations
and dozens of
TV stations
Most imported and exported goods expressed in dollar amount
Import
Russia Japan Indonesia India India
123 145 149 286 980
amounts x 1 million dollar
3. Want to hail a taxi in Kampala?
Check the local handsigns
2
3
Sources: WWF Sources: BBS, Culture Crossing Guide, Music in Africa, UCDA
4
4. Every monday
Kampala musicians
get together at the
National theatre for
a giant jam session
Uganda has about
1,067 species of birds,
representing 10 percent
of the world’s bird
population. The ten most
common birds are:
3. African
Green
Broadbill
6. Standardwinged
Nightjar
9. Bar-tailed
Trogon
5. In a survey by The African
Economist Ugandans were placed
among the friendliest people of Africa
5
2. Greenbreasted
Pitta
6. There’s a
growing number of
coffee houses
4. Great
Blue Turaco
10. Blackbreasted
Barbet
1. Shoebill
5. Shelley’s
Crimsonwing
7. Shorttailed
Warbler
6
8. Doherty’s
Bushshrike
Wheat
Cocoa beans
Automobiles
Maize seed
Crude palm oil
Portland cement
Other medicaments
Petroleum
Uganda
Export
Petroleum
Coffee
57 131 61 79 401
Malaysia Congo Rwanda Italy
Sources: World Integrated Trade Solution (WITS)

52 / TREND / Renewable Energy
Power to
the People
From the Land of the Pharaohs to the Cape
of Good Hope, the African continent is looking
to harness the energy from its ABUNDANT
SUNSHINE and STRONG WINDS
to generate power for its people. The future
for millions is excitingly bright.
text Dianne Sutherland
It is likely that your life has in some way been touched by
clean, green and sustainable energy, whether you know it or
not. The drive to combat climate change and achieve energy
security has reached all corners of the world. Most probably
you have also come across these new energy trends in person
in the shape of wind farms, with their mighty turbines rotating
majestically in the breeze, or else vast swathes of solar panels
tilted towards the light of the sun to absorb its energy.
Africa can boast of its own share of these world-class
wind farms and solar parks, which have set global technology
records in the process of their development. Other outstanding
renewable technologies providing clean energy include
geothermal, hydropower and bioenergy. Leading the continent
in projects of substantial scale are Egypt, Ethiopia, Kenya,
Morocco and South Africa, while a handful of other countries
also have sizeable developments.
These projects are having a profound effect on the lives of
citizens and the economies of African countries, with quickly
deployed, small-scale set-ups making an immediate impact. In
2015, for example, more than 28.5 million people were benefiting
from solar lighting products, according to Lighting Africa,
part of the World Bank Group’s Sustainable Energy for All
programme.
TWO DRIVING FORCES
There are two major drivers spurring the development of
renewable energy across the continent. The first and most
obvious is the need to extend electricity to rural areas, mainly
in the sub-Saharan region. African nations without fossil-fuel
resources face very high costs associated with importing oil >
Investment opportunities
With the swift implementation of
both commercial and small-scale
projects already demonstrated
around the continent, it is a
safe bet that the investment
community is encouraged. More
importantly, the benefits of
having access to clean electricity
have been realised, and in turn
spurred local development. As
renewable technologies continue
to advance while becoming
more cost effective, the pace of
implementation within underelectrified
regions will gain
momentum and further enrich the
lives of Africans. Development of
the renewable energy sector is
now a strategic priority for powerchallenged
nations, and the next
decade promises to yield even
greater results.

TREND / 53
Mighty wind turbines
rotating majestically
in the breeze: just one
of the possible clean
energy solutions
Getty Images

54 / TREND / Renewable Energy
Getty Images
and gasoline, with the consequence that economic growth and
infrastructure development are hindered. Renewable energy
promises to reverse this trend.
The second driver is the global initiative to reduce carbon
emissions and climate change, efforts that could have a positive
impact on Africa. Although Africa’s contribution to global
greenhouse gas emissions is negligible compared to that of
the European Union, the United States and India, according
to the United Nations Environment Programme, the African
continent stands to suffer disproportionately from the
detrimental effects of global climate change. Without drastic
measures to minimise global greenhouse gases and the
build-up of carbon dioxide in the atmosphere, Africa faces
a difficult future, UN’s Environmental Programme warns.
The good news is that these factors have led to significant
innovation in Africa’s renewable energy sector. Made aware
of the alternative energy resources they have available in their
own backyards, African leaders are engaging in the fight
against climate change. As a result, the majority of African
countries now have renewable energy policies and strategies,
and they are using new tools that are available for that purpose.
For example, some are making use of something called feedin-tariffs,
which pay people and businesses that generate their
own forms of sustainable electricity.
FINDING THE MONEY
While mobilising capital for unproven ventures can be a
difficult task anywhere in the world, there are a number of
funding trends that are encouraging efforts in Africa. Prominently
among these is the $1-billion fund Breakthrough Energy
Ventures, launched in December 2014 by Microsoft co-founder
Bill Gates and Amazon chief executive officer Jeff Bezos,
“New ideas and
technologies are
constantly emerging”
– Godfrey Sanga, Energy 4 Impact
programme manager –
Google and Lake Turkana
Kenya’s ambitious renewable energy programme aims to
produce 630 megawatts of energy – almost a third of the
country’s total output – by wind alone. The Lake Turkana
Wind Power Project, a €623 million private-sector plan in
Kenya is expected to produce 310 megawatts of electricity
when it becomes fully operational in June 2017, enough to
power for more than one million households.
Lake Turkana has an interesting investor: Google. The internet
giant announced plans to acquire a 12.5 percent stake in the
wind farm last October, becoming the project’s third-largest
investor. This is the tech company’s second major investment
in Africa’s renewable energy sector. In 2013, it invested
$12 million in the Jasper Solar Power Project, a 96 megawatt
photovoltaic power station in South Africa.

TREND / 55
together with a handful of other billionaire investors. It is one
of several new energy funds that invest exclusively in energy
stocks. More specific to the continent is the African Renewable
Energy Fund, launched in 2014 with $100 million, which was
later expanded to $200 million. The fund, based in London
and Nairobi, is dedicated to the support of independent power
producers in sub-Saharan Africa and is sponsored by the
Sustainable Energy Fund for Africa, a multi-donor trust fund
administered by the African Development Bank.
Infrastructure investment from all around the world is also
finding its way to the continent. Power Africa, former American
president Barack Obama’s African electrification initiative,
set a goal to increase the continent’s capacity to generate clean
and efficient electricity by 30,000 megawatts, which would
theoretically power some 60 million homes and businesses.
Leveraging investments from the private sector, Power Africa
committed $7 billion in 2013, to meet these goals by 2030.
Meanwhile, Britain in 2015 began the Energy Africa campaign
to achieve universal access to modern energy on the continent
in the next decade. The country’s Department for International
Development hopes to do this by addressing policy and
regulatory barriers that stand in the way of the adoption of
solar energy. Norway’s Norfund has also committed significant
capital to African renewable energy projects.
INNOVATION THROUGH CROWDFUNDING
A further, increasingly popular vehicle for raising money
is crowdfunding. Energy 4 Impact, a London-based non-profit
organisation that works with local businesses in East and West
Africa to extend energy access, is a big proponent of the practice.
It has participated in several crowdfunding campaigns for
what is known as “off-grid power” and is currently managing
a three-year programme to stimulate, develop and learn from
the crowdfunding of renewable energy in sub-Saharan Africa.
“New ideas, new technologies and innovative business
models are constantly emerging in the dynamic off-grid market,”
says Godfrey Sanga, the programme manager for Energy 4
Impact. “Innovations involve risk, and finding capital to support
research and development, pilot studies or field trials can be
challenging, particularly in emerging markets. But pioneering
projects need support.”
AFRICAN ENTREPRENEURS
All African countries are unique, and there is no single
solution for energy access. But entrepreneurial Africans are
formulating their own approaches. One example is Solektra
International, founded in 2014 by the Senegalese public
servant and speaker Thione Niang, the Malian entrepreneur
Samba Bathily, and the rap artist Akon. Together, they created
Akon Lighting Africa, delivering affordable solar energy to
off-grid areas spanning 480 communities across 15 countries.
“Our biggest resource is the human resource,” Akon told
delegates at the Powering Africa Summit in Washington D.C.
last year, emphasising the role of young people in the drive
towards a sustainable future: “Involve youth, because they are
integral to our success.” In this spirit, Akon and Solektra
spearheaded Africa’s first Solar Academy in Bamako, Mali.
Its aim is to create a new generation of skilled professionals
to advance not only the objectives of Solektra, but to literally
light the way towards progress for communities across Africa.
0.17
Megawatts of per capita electricity
consumption in Kenya
480
Communities enjoying affordable solar
energy through Akon Lighting Africa
130
Megawatts of electricity generated
each year by South African wind farms
Amakhala Emoyeni and Cookhouse
6
Gigawatts of electricity will be generated
in 2017 by the Grand Renaissance
Dam hydropower project in Ethiopia
9,349
Jobs created by Energy 4 Impact
30,000
Megawatts: the energy target for the
initiative Power Africa
~ Dianne Sutherland is publisher and
owner of Alternative Energy Africa, a magazine
dedicated to the continent’s renewables sector
iStock

Tips / BUSINESS / 57
How to
Leave
work stress
behind
When things get hectic in
the office it’s hard not to take
job stress home with you.
But IT IS POSSIBLE, with
these few handy tips.
Text Joanne Wienen Illustration Edith Carron
1
Have an active after-work habit
Sometimes your brain needs a signal
that it is home time. And when this signal
helps you get healthy and release tension
in your body, that’s even better. So walk
the scenic route home, hit the gym for
a quick workout or meditate (the app
Headspace is a fun place to start).
2
Make stress work for you
Researchers from Yale University
have found that reframing stress as
helpful rather than harmful can improve
performance and reverse any related
physiological changes. It might be as
simple as changing your mindset.
3
Log off
For most of us, Wi-Fi automatically
connects at home, but with it comes the
temptation to check your work emails
past work hours. It might sound quite
obvious, but it’s the most common
reason people slip back into job stress
at home. Switch off notifications for
work email when you get home.
4
Put it in writing
Journaling about your workday can
help you deal with stressful situations,
found Harvard Business School professor
Teresa Amabile. Jot down one small
success when you get home from work
every day. It forces you to focus on the
positive, which lowers stress hormones
such as cortisol in your body.
While we’re
on the subject…
These titles (all available
online) offer inspiration
and advice.
Economist and former
McKinsey partner Caroline
Webb offers evidencebased
advice on balancing
work and life in How to
Have a Good Day (2016).
In Declutter Your Mind:
How to Stop Worrying,
Relieve Anxiety, and
Eliminate Negative Thinking
(2016), bestselling authors
S.J. Scott and Barrie
Davenport prove that
changing your thoughts
can change your life.
Stress doesn’t have to
be a bad thing. Discover
the right way to deal with
it by reading The Upside
of Stress: Why Stress Is
Good for You, and How
to Get Good at It (2016)
by Kelly McGonigal.

Tips / BUSINESS / 59
How to
Give a
successful
presentation
You don’t have to be a gifted
speaker to give a great
presentation. TRANSFORM
FROM MUMBLING to
mesmerising with these tips.
Text Joanne Wienen Illustration Edith Carron
1
Go in with a bang
Try capturing your audience’s attention
immediately by telling a quick joke
or sharing a story. The most common
mistake people make in presentations is
to start by explaining. People prefer to
listen to narratives and ideas than to hear
about organisations.
2
Summarise up front
In business, as they say, time is money.
Don’t try to cover too much ground, and
always summarise your key points in the
first five minutes of your talk. You’ll then
have plenty of time to bring your story
alive with examples and to elaborate on
some interesting details.
3
Develop stage presence
The most important thing you can
do to ensure your talk is well-received is
make eye contact. Try finding five or six
people in different parts of the audience
and look them in the eye as you speak.
This is easier if you have your speech
memorised by heart. It takes a bit more
preparation, but your talk will indeed
benefit significantly.
4
Use smart visuals
Used well, visuals in presentations can
be very effective, but avoid the common
mistakes, like using self-promotional
corporate videos or infomercials, because
people are conditioned to tune them out.
Stick to videos under 60 seconds.
While we’re
on the subject…
These titles (all available
online) offer inspiration
and advice.
If anyone knows how to
give a great talk, it’s Chris
Anderson, the curator of the
TED movement. In the The
New York Times-bestselling
TED Talks (2016), he spills
the beans.
Even more important than
having a great idea is knowing
how to share it. Nancy Duarte
and Patti Sanchez explain
how to do it best in Illuminate:
Ignite Change Through Speeches,
Stories, Ceremonies, and
Symbols (2016).
Want to know how to
use storytelling to drive
change, transform your
business and inspire
others? In The Storyteller’s
Secret (2016), bestselling
author Carmine Gallo
lights the way.

60 / TRAVEL / London

9
TRAVEL / 61
Reasons
to Love
London
From the gritty glamour of
SHOREDITCH to the cultural hotbed
that is the SOUTH BANK, London has
something to inspire every traveller.
Spring showcases the city with parks and
gardens blossoming in all their British
beauty. Explore on foot, by black cab or
from the top of an iconic double-decker.
text Leo Bear
Laura Edwards
1
You can soak up the sights through a different perspective
Jump aboard a double-decker bus, take a seat upstairs and watch
London’s famous sights idly pass you by as you snake your way along
the city’s streets. The 211 from Hammersmith to Waterloo, for example,
goes past Chelsea Football Stadium, up the Kings Road to Sloane Square
then onto Westminster Cathedral and the Houses of Parliament. And as
you’ll need a prepaid Oyster card or Travelcard for all public transport, you
can simply hop on and hop off where and when you fancy, determining
your own route and agenda. Not bad for a few pounds. If you can’t decide
on exactly what you’d like to see, then enlist the help of any number of
guided or themed walks on offer. From movies (step into the worlds of
Harry Potter, James Bond or Alfred Hitchcock) to macabre (think ghost
walks or Jack the Ripper) to music (follow the beat of the Swinging ’60s
and visit the Beatles’ London haunts), there’s something to suit all tastes.

62 / TRAVEL / London
2
It’s the start of the sporting season
The Oxford and Cambridge Boat Race on 2 April signals the start
of London’s spring sporting season. One of the world’s oldest
athletic events (since 1829), it attracts hundreds of thousands of
flag-waving Londoners to the banks of the River Thames in London,
between Putney and Mortlake, to cheer on Oxford and Cambridge
University rowers. On 23 April, there’s the London Marathon, a 26-mile run
with about 40,000 participants – and about ten times as many spectators.
3
Spectacular new hotels are opening
This spring sees a handful of exciting new London hotels opening
most notably Nobu Hotel Shoreditch, which will have 150 rooms,
and menus by chef Nobu Matsuhisa. The uber-trendy Soho House group
also opens The Ned, a spectacular heritage hotel made from a former
11-storey bank headquarters in the City of London. Now, it is a 5-star
hotel and private members club, with more than 200 rooms decked out in
the faded glamour of a 1930s-ocean liner. It’s also bound to be a top
restaurant destination, featuring a New-York-style deli, a Parisian café
and a branch of the world-famous Cecconi’s, serving modern-day classic
Italian cuisine. The new Dorsett Shepherd’s Bush may be a more affordable
addition, and especially convenient for shopping at Westfield, London’s
biggest shopping mall (which is located just across the street). It has a
dim sum restaurant on the ground floor and a small rooftop spa.
4
You can pick your adventure
If you want to get your adrenaline pumping, adventures await you.
The ArcelorMittal Orbit, the world’s tallest tunnel slide, designed by
Anish Kapoor, at the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park; the Star Wars
Identities exhibition, with more than 200 movie props on display, at the
02 Exhibition Centre; or a mad-cap Shrek Adventure on the South Bank
(right next to the London Eye). If you’re more into tech, why not head to
the Science Museum in South Kensington for a celebration of humanoid
robots? More than 100 robots, from 16th-century models to sci-fi heroes,
will be on view until 3 September. Kids (of all ages) welcome.
5
You can dine like a local
Be sure to reserve a spot at one of the capital’s most coveted tables.
Clipstone in Fitzrovia is a neighbourhood bistro that opened to
little fanfare last year yet has been highly praised by several very discerning
restaurant critics. Small but perfectly formed, it attracts a cultured, convivial
crowd, and delivers excellent modern Italian cuisine from about £50
per person. Equally au courant is Pharmacy 2, artist Damien Hirst’s
restaurant, tucked away in an unpretentious corner of Vauxhall. This
hotspot follows Pharmacy 1, Hirst’s first eatery from the 1990s, which
was frequented by London’s wildest fashion crowd. Next door to Hirst’s
own private museum, the Newport Street Art Gallery, Pharmacy 2 is a
more grown-up version, with the artist in charge of the popping décor,
and chef Mark Hix overseeing the food. If you are on the move, Borough
Market has some of the best food stalls in London, and for a slap-up
Sunday roast, the Harwood Arms, a Michelin-starred pub in Fulham,
focuses on game and wild food, like foreagables.
Top tipple: The 200 year-old Sipsmith Gin Distillery runs weekly tours
from £15 (including a G&T).
1. Borough Market 2. Pie at Petersham Nurseries 3. Notting Hill 4. Borough Market
5. ArcelorMittel Orbit
“If you are on the
move, Borough Market
has some of the
best food stalls in
London, and for a
slap-up Sunday roast,
try Harwood Arms”
EAT & DRINK
Aqua Shard
32 London Bridge Street
the-shard.com
Borough Market
8 Southwark Street
boroughmarket.org.uk
Clipstone
5 Clipstone Street
clipstonerestaurant.co.uk
Farmacy
74 Westbourne Grove
farmacylondon.com
Harwood Arms
Walham Grove
harwoodarms.com
The Lyric Bar & Grill
One Lyric Square, King Street
lyric.co.uk
Petersham Nurseries
Church Lane, off Petersham Road
petershamnurseries.com
Pharmacy 2
Newport Street
pharmacyrestaurant.com
Radio Rooftop Bar
336-337 Strand
radiorooftop.com
Sherlock Holmes Pub
10 Northumberland Street
sherlockholmes-stjames.co.uk
The Ship
41 Jews Row
theship.co.uk
Sipsmith Distillery
83 Cranbrook Road
sipsmith.com

TRAVEL / 63
1 2
Nicole Franzen (1, 3, 4, taxis, houses), Ming Tang Evans (2), Laura Edwards (telephone booth, cyclist), Getty Images (5)
3
5
4

64 / TRAVEL / London
1 2
3
4
5 6
Keiko Oikawa (1), Laura Edwards (2, boats), Ming Tang Evans (3),
Shini Park/parkandcube.com (4), Nicole Franzen (5,6, street bottom right)

TRAVEL / 65
HOTELS
Dorsett Shepherds Bush
58 Shepherd’s Bush Green
dorsetthotels.com
The Ned
27 Poultry
thened.com
Nobu Hotel Shoreditch
10-50 Willow Street
nobuhotels.com
TO DO
ArcelorMittal Orbit
3 Thornton Street, Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park
arcelormittalorbit.com
Science Museum
Exhibition Road
sciencemuseum.org.uk
Sherlock Holmes Museum
221b Baker Street
sherlock-holmes.co.uk
Shrek Adventure
Riverside Building, County Hall, Westminster
Bridge Road; shreksadventure.com
Star Wars Identities
O2 Arena, Peninsula Square
starwarsidentities.com
ART GALLERIES
Saatchi Gallery
Duke Of York’s HQ, King’s Rd
saatchigallery.com
Shoreditch Street Art Tours
shoreditchstreetarttours.co.uk
Party time
1. The London Notting Hill Carnival, held over
the August Bank Holiday weekend, is the
biggest street party and Caribbean festival
in Europe. Expect the streets of Notting
Hill and its surrounding areas to pulse with
music, sizzling food stalls and flambouyant
floats. Thelondonnottinghillcarnival.com
2. Green Day and Kings of Leon will be
among the bands performing at Hyde Park’s
British Summer Time concert this summer.
Tickets available at bst-hydepark.com.
3. Friday 17 March is Saint Patrick’s Day (the
patron saint of Ireland). Expect Irish dancing,
singing and music all over the streets of
London, and plenty of green…
6
There are mysteries to solve
Go undercover and explore the city as Sherlock Holmes once would
have, by checking out some of the cunning detective’s favourite haunts.
Start with a visit to Sherlock and Watson’s home address, as seen in the
current TV series Sherlock. See the familiar exterior at 187 North Gower
Street in north London. There is also The Sherlock Holmes Museum to
explore: a landmark building that features a recreation of Holmes’ sitting
room, plus a small gift shop. Finish off with a hearty plate of Cumberland
sausages at the Sherlock Holmes Pub in Westminster – it’s crammed full of
fascinating memorabilia including Dr Watson’s old service revolver.
7
Everything is in bloom
There is no better time to admire London’s tree-lined streets, especially
those of Notting Hill and Chelsea, where lilac wisteria festoons the
facades of candy-coloured Georgian houses. For serious flower power, the
annual RHS Chelsea Flower Show (23-27 May) is a must-see, but for those
seeking a quieter experience, the Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew feature an
avenue of golden laburnum trees, a pink rose pergola and a glasshouse filled
with water lilies dating back to the days of Queen Victoria. Richmond Park,
the largest of the Royal parks, is a perfect picnic spot and home to more
than 300 wild deer.
Local tip: While in Richmond, stop in for lunch or afternoon tea at Petersham
Nurseries, where edible flowers adorn Michelin-starred eats in a rustic-chic
glasshouse (booking ahead is essential). Or, head over to Farmacy in
Westbourne Grove for ultra-fresh vegan dishes in a palm tree-filled restaurant.
8
Art goes pop!
The Saatchi Gallery in Chelsea, owned by ad man and collector
Charles Saatchi, contains an extraordinary contemporary art trove,
and exciting exhibitions. At the Tate Britain, a major retrospective of the
work of David Hockney, one of the most popular and influential British
artists of the 20th century (and London resident), continues until
29 May, and is sure to be a popular draw until then. For something a bit
grittier, Shoreditch Street Art Tours will guide you through London’s
colourful East End, where local street artists and international street
artists have created ever-changing murals of intense vitality – you get
extra points for spotting a Banksy!
9
Rooftops are buzzing…
With the mercury rising, enjoy an Elderflower Cooler or Aperol
Spritz overlooking some of the city’s famous landmarks. The views
from Aqua Shard, a three-storey drinking den at the top of The Shard,
one of London’s sexiest skyscrapers, are hard to beat. There’s also the
Radio Rooftop Bar at the new ME London hotel, which has a cool Ibizastyle
vibe and DJs spinning turntables until the early hours. At ground
level, beer gardens overflow with bonhomie. Try The Ship, a pub in
Wandsworth for craft ales, juicy barbequed burgers and nice atmosphere.
Insider tip: The Lyric Theatre in Hammersmith recently opened a large
roof terrace with smart decking and living canopies, great for lunch or
drinks without the crowds.
➔
Kenya Airways operates non-stop
flights to London from Nairobi’s
Jomo Kenyatta International Airport.
1. Clipstone restaurant 2. Big Ben 3. Petersham Nurseries 4. Kew Royal Botanic Gardens
5. Westminster Bridge 6. A café near Colombia Road Flower Market

Quiz / TRAVEL / 67
Guess
and Win
We give you five clues about a
KENYA AIRWAYS DESTINATION.
Which country are we referring to?
Post your answer to Facebook, Instagram
or Twitter using #msafiriquiz,
and we may surprise you with a gift.
Text Natascha Mijnhart
1
Three major lakes are situated in this country. One of them
is LAKE TANGANYIKA, which is acclaimed for its many
species of cichlid fish, among other things.
2
Lots of people travel to this country to admire special
wildlife species, such as the black rhinoceros and the African
elephant. But it is also home to one of the only two
TREE-CLIMBING LION populations in the world.
Shutterstock (sunset), Getty Images (Freddie Mercury), Dreamstime (woman, fish, rhino), ANP (skull)
3
This country contains the largest city of Eastern Africa
by population. The city was once the national capital but
lost its status to another, smaller city in 1974. However, it
remains the centre of COMMERCIAL and ECONOMIC
TRENDS in art, architecture, fashion, music and film.
4
FREDDIE MERCURY (1946-1991), the late singer of the
world-famous British band Queen, was born and partly
raised in an autonomous part of this country.
5
Paleoanthropologists travel to this country from all over the
globe to visit a SPECIAL GORGE that has answered many
questions about human evolution, since the remains of
several human species have been discovered here.
Do you know the country? Post your answer to Facebook, Twitter or Instagram using #msafiriquiz. Each month, Kenya Airways will pick a winner
and surprise him or her with a gift. Correspondence about the quiz results will not be possible.

68 / WILDLIFE / Conservation
SENSE
From the dramatic burning of ivory stockpiles
to the clampdown on illegal trafficking, efforts
are being made to PROTECT THE WORLD’S
most beloved, but endangered, creature.
text Dr. Winnie Kiiru photography David Yarrow

OF HOPE
WILDLIFE / 69

70 / WILDLIFE / Conservation
THE last time my family and I
drove across the plains of Tsavo East
National Park in Kenya, we played a
game: matching babies with their mothers
in the large herds of elephants that we
observed. We sometimes got it terribly
wrong, and our car filled with laughter.
As we approached the tented camp
where we planned to spend a few days,
I noticed a group of elephants clustering
together in a typically defensive stance.
The females fanned out to face in every
direction, and the young calves were
barely visible inside their closed circle.
I explained to my family that these
elephants were reacting to a threat.
Tsavo elephants are particularly sensitive
because they have historically suffered
from poaching, and they react quickly
to any form of encroachment. It was
at this point that my son asked me,
“Mum, is there hope for elephants?”
GLOBAL CONSCIOUSNESS
In December 2011, Traffic, a watchdog
that tracks the illegal wildlife trade,
released a scathing report declaring 2011
an annus horribilis for African elephants.
This was the year in which at least
thirteen large-scale ivory seizures,
weighing more than 800kg, took place
globally. Conservation groups warned
that thousands of elephants were being
killed each year and that there was a
possibility that elephants could be extinct
within ten years if the level of illegal
poaching continued on the same scale.
The warning alerted the public and
raised global consciousness about the
elephant crisis, generating an outpouring
of support for their protection. The
collective sense of urgency seemed to
be the driving force behind a subsequent
number of high-level initiatives to save
the elephants.
SIGNIFICANT STATEMENTS
In February 2014, African government
leaders launched the Elephant Protection
Initiative, which is calling upon states,
non-governmental organisations and
private citizens to band together in
response to the elephant crisis. The
ideals of this major initiative included
promoting the closure of domestic ivory
markets and putting ivory “beyond
economic use” through the destruction
of existing stockpiles.
In a joint statement issued during
Chinese president Xi Jinping’s first visit
to the United States in 2015, the two
nations committed to enacting nearly
complete bans on ivory imports and
exports. This was a significant promise
from China, which is the world’s largest
ivory market. In an unprecedented and
welcome move, the country banned
ivory imports for one year in February
2015, following up with an extension of
the ban as of 2017.
Within Africa itself a remarkable
number of countries destroyed their
ivory stocks between 2014 and 2016.
Kenya’s president Uhuru Kenyatta
demonstrated the highest level of
commitment and leadership in elephant
conservation when, last April, he hosted
African heads of state for the Giants
Club Summit, and then went on to set
ablaze Kenya’s entire stock of more
than 105 tonnes of ivory. “In ten years
United for Wildlife
“The elephant is our
iconic symbol.
Unless we take
action now we risk
losing this
magnificent animal”
– President Uhuru Kenyatta –
in central Africa, we have lost as many
as 70 percent of the elephants,” Kenyatta
said during the stockpile burning. “The
elephant is an iconic symbol of our
country. Unless we take action now,
we risk losing this magnificent animal.”
CELEBRITY VOICES
Two conferences held last year – the
International Union for the Conservation
of Nature in Hawaii, and the 17th meeting
of the Conference of the Parties in
Johannesburg – saw members of the
global community join together to
call for the closure of domestic ivory
markets. China and the United States
strongly supported these actions.
In Britain, Prince William’s United
For Wildlife organisation continues to
be an indefatigable advocate for the
conservation of elephants. The prince
was behind last year’s Buckingham
Palace Declaration, which brought
together global transport, customs
and wildlife agencies to combat illegal
wildlife trafficking. His support for
the Elephant Protection Initiative has
also remained unwavering.
The world’s media and conservation
groups have also highlighted the dire
plight of elephants, in some instances
taking huge risks and spending significant
resources to draw attention to the
role of international criminal gangs in
elephant poaching. Campaigns have
been supported by Hollywood actors
such as Leonardo DiCaprio and Lupita
Nyong’o, as well as basketball superstar
Yao Ming. The plight of elephants has
never been better articulated.
Kenya Airways was an active force
in drawing up the United for Wildlife
Transport Taskforce Declaration,
focused on illegal wildlife products.
KQ signed the declaration, together
with 40 other leaders in the
transport and conservation sector
in March 2016. Led by Prince
William, the Duke of Cambridge,
the initiative aims to support efforts
to prevent the growing trade in
illegal wildlife and products around
the world.
Kenya Airways has a zero-tolerance
policy regarding illegal wildlife trade.
By signing this declaration, the
airline has reinforced its position.
It will work closely with other
government agencies, especially
at Jomo Kenyatta International
Airport (JKIA), to ensure that illegal
products are not transported on
its aircrafts.
By working together, the transport
industry can help shut down routes
exploited by traffickers. Other African
signatories of the declaration include
South African Airways and the
African Airlines Association. >

WILDLIFE / 71

72 / WILDLIFE / Conservation

“The world agrees that the crisis
is real and that steps must be taken to
save the species from extinction”
WILDLIFE / 73

74 / WILDLIFE / Conservation
“The collective
energy that has
been put into saving
them must yield
positive results”
FALLING BEHIND
The challenge to transform our
collective benevolence towards the plight
of the elephants into positive action
continues. The world agrees that the
crisis is real and that steps must be taken
to save the species from extinction. But
the efforts made so far have not yielded
the desired results. During the Illegal
Wildlife Trade conference in Hanoi in
November 2016, Prince William said,
“While we’ve made progress, the truth
is we are still falling behind. A betting
man would still bet on extinction.”
The evidence that the fight is far
from won is clear. Seizures of ivory
continue to take place at sea ports and
airports around the world. From 2011 to
2014 there were a record 6,000 seizures
globally, representing in total almost 200
tonnes of ivory.
The results of the Great Elephant
Census, which counted elephants in
eighteen countries over a period of two
years, alerted the world that Africa’s
savannah elephant population had
dropped by thirty percent over the
previous seven years. An astonishing
144,000 elephants died between 2007
and 2014 – or about 20,000 elephants
each year, according to the report,
released in September 2016. Tanzania
alone lost two-thirds of its elephant
population over that period. Meanwhile
poaching continues to spread to countries
such as Botswana and South Africa,
where elephants have traditionally been
considered safe. The militarisation of
national wildlife departments has not
made elephants safer. Poachers are
becoming more sophisticated, and
criminal trafficking rings have become
much bolder.
RECENT BAN
The sunset was fast approaching in
Tsavo East. My family settled down to
watch a large herd of elephants fall into
a nearly perfect line and begin walking
purposefully away from the watering
hole and into the glowing golden sky.
We watched as two young bulls stayed
behind, continuing to spar playfully
near the water.
I finally had an answer to offer my
son: 2017 must be an annus spero, a year
of hope for elephants. The collective
energy that has been put into saving
them in the last few years must yield
positive results. China must lead the
world in ending the ivory trade by
implementing its recent ban, and the
global transport industry must put
traffickers out of business with the help
of a vigilant enforcement community.
We must catch the criminals and bring
them to justice. Most importantly,
the citizens of the world must demand
clear and visible action from their
political leaders.
A world without elephants would
be an unimaginably miserable one. The
stakes are too high. This fight just has
to be won.
~ Dr. Winnie Kiiru is a wildlife biologist.
She works across Africa leading the
development and implementation of
National Elephant Action Plans under
the Elephant Protection Initiative.
144,000
Number of elephants
killed for their ivory between
2007 and 2014
29
Number of countries forming
the African Elephant
Coalition to crack down
on the ivory trade
22
Nations that have burned
their ivory stockpiles
11,000
scientists and experts
working voluntarily for the
International Union for the
Conservation of Nature
352,000
Approximate population
of African savannah
elephants today
WILDLIFE THROUGH A LENS
The photography on these pages is from the book Wild
Encounters by David Yarrow, who captures the beauty
of the planet’s vanishing animals and remote cultures.
Born in Glasgow, Scotland and based in London, Yarrow
is a bestselling wildlife photographer, an acclaimed fine
art photographer and an active conservationist. Rizzoli
publishers launched his book Wild Encounters last year,
and its first print run sold out in a matter of months. The
book was named in Amazon’s Best Books of 2016 list,
in the Arts and Photography category.

Get
Noticed
Connecting Africa to the World
To advertise in Msafiri, contact:
Rose Kagori, Mediaedge Interactive Ltd
Tel: +254 0723140187 / 0734271488
Email: msafiri@mediaedgeke.com
wwww.redhousegroupke.com

ENTERTAINMENT / 77
Kenya Airways
offers its passengers
complimentary inflight
entertainment.
The programme will
vary in different aircraft
types. Check your
screen to view the
selection on your flight.
Relax & Enjoy
Discover our complimentary blockbusters, new releases,
African films, all-time favourites, Bollywood films, TV, audio and
games during your flight. These are this season’s highlights.
Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them
(read more on the next page)
“It’s a message of tolerance,
understanding, a desire to sort of take fear out
of relationships and to celebrate
Otherness and not to be afraid of the Other”
– David Yates, Director of Fantastic Beasts
and Where to Find Them, on the movie’s message –
MOVIE RATINGS
G Suitable for all ages PG Some material may not be suitable or children PG-13 Some material may be inapproriate for children under 13
R Under-17s should watch only with parental approval Please note: at certain periods of the month the programming may differ from that shown.

78 / ENTERTAINMENT
New Releases
Fantastic
Beasts
And Where to Find Them
This critically-celebrated and
much anticipated prequel to the
Harry Potter series has all the
magic, wizardry and villainy as
the Potter films, but sets itself
far apart in terms of storyline,
characters, period and setting.
Set in 1926 New York City, the movie
tells the story of Newt Scamander,
an English ‘magizoologist’ who is the
author of a textbook from which the
film borrows its name. He arrives in the
Big Apple to study its magical creatures,
but things quickly go awry when his
own beasts escape from his suitcase.
The movie is a fast-paced telling of
Newt’s 48-hour adventure, during which
he must track down his runaway beasts
and keep them from wreaking havoc on
the streets of New York, all the while
caught between the sinister actions of a
dark wizard called Gellert Grindelwald
and a growing group of extremists
who oppose wizardry and magic.
The film is the screenwriting debut of
JK Rowling, author of the Harry Potter
series. David Heyman, who produced
the Harry Potter movies, returns as
producer for Fantastic Beasts, and
director David Yates also directed four
of the Potter films.
Fantastic Beasts (2016) FAMILY, ADVENTURE
Adventure ensues when English ‘magizoologist’ arrives in New York and his
fantastic beasts escape from his suitcase. A prequel to the Harry Potter series.
Eddie Redmayne, Ezra Miller. PG-13, 127 mins, Director: David Yates
Rules Don’t Apply (2016) ROMANCE, COMEDY
A love story about an aspiring actress, a determined driver and a wildly
eccentric billionaire for whom they both work.
Haley Bennett, Taissa Farmiga. PG-13, 127 mins, Director: Warren Beatty
Did you know
~ Each of the actors in Fantastic Beasts designed their own
wands and took classes to learn how to use them.
~ JK Rowling first published an edition of the Fantastic Beasts
and Where to Find Them textbook in 2001.
Miss Peregrine’s Home for Peculiar Children (2016) DRAMA
A boy discovers clues to a mystery that spans alternate realities and uncovers
an abandoned children’s home where residents have special powers.
Eva Green, AsaButterfield. PG-12, 127 mins, Director: Tim Burton

ENTERTAINMENT / 79
Classics
In Time (2011) ACTION, SCI-FI
In a future where time is – literally – money, Will Salas gets a big break
when a windfall of time gives him access to the world of the wealthy.
Justin Timberlake. PG-12, 109 mins. Director: Andrew Niccol
Cleopatra (1963) DRAMA
A romantic drama of epic proportions, this classic tells the story of an
ambitious Egyptian queen who will sacrafice all to save her country.
Elizabeth Taylor. PG-14, 192 mins, Director: Joseph L. Mankiewicz
Cheaper by the Dozen (2003) COMEDY, FAMILY
A couple with 12 children pursue more demanding careers and find big
families and big careers are hard to balance. Remake of the ’50s classic.
Steve Martin, Bonnie Hunt. PG, 98 mins, Director: Shawn Levy
The Seven Year Itch (1955) COMEDY, ROMANCE
A husband who has always been faithful to his wife suddenly finds himself
tempted by his neighbour when his family goes away for the summer.
Marilyn Monroe, Tom Ewell. PG, 105 mins, Director: Billy Wilder
The Martian (2015) DRAMA, SCI-FI
An astronaut is stranded on Mars because his team thinks he’s dead, and
he must rely on his ingenuity to signal to Earth that he is alive.
Matt Damon, Jessica Chastain. PG-12, 144 mins, Director: Ridley Scott
The Secret Life of Bees (2008) DRAMA
In 1964 South Carolina, a 14-year-old girl and her nanny flee the girl’s
abusive father and take refuge with three sisters on a honey farm.
Dakota Fanning. PG-12, 114 mins, Director: Gina Prince-Bythewood

80 / ENTERTAINMENT
African Highlights
Safe Bet
Mum Dad meet Sam
Queen of Katwe
Film
Picks from
the continent
We have selected the best of current African cinema,
including drama and comedy.
Safe Bet (2015) ACTION, COMEDY
Frank is tempted to risk all of his boss’ money on a fixed boxing match
when his old friend Khaya comes up with the scheme.
Wandile Molebatsi, Godfrey Thobejane, Luthuli Dlamini. PG-13, 90 mins,
Director: Bonginhlanhla Ncube
Mum, Dad Meet Sam (2014) COMEDY
Josiah takes his love, Samantha, home to meet his family, where a supposed
special occasion becomes a nightmare.
Tomasz Dabrowski, Amanda Smith, Emily Lucienne. PG-13, 94 mins,
Director: Tony Sebastian Ukpo
Moth to a Flame (2016) DRAMA
A woman must drive a taxi to pay her father’s medical bills, until a chance
encounter changes her situation for the better.
Fami Jacobs, Shaffy Bello, Kiki Omeili. PG-13, 107 mins,
Director: Onesoul
Safe Bet
The Wedding (2016) DRAMA
A Yoruba doctor proposes to his Igbo girlfriend and feels the wrath of
tribalistic prejudice from their respective mothers.
Jide Kosoko, Desmond Elliot, Blossom Chijekwu. PG-13, 107 mins,
Director: Desmond Elliot
Ruse (2016) DRAMA
A man with amnesia grows close to his doctor, but when he moves into
her home their relationship changes.
Keira Heiwatch, Michael Ucheagbu, Peace Egwu. PG-13, 90 mins,
Director: Emmanual Aka
Tell Me Sweet Something (2016) COMEDY
Moratiwa, a bookstore owner and aspiring writer, meets Nat, a model, who
has never read a book in his life but wants to be loved for his mind and
not his body.
Thomas Gumede, Maps Maponyane, Nomzamo Mbatha. PG-13, 90
mins, Director: Akin Omotoso
Kati Kati (2016) DRAMA
Kaleche, a young amnesiac, wakes up in the wilderness and meets a crew
under the leadership of Thoma.
Nyokabi Gethaiga, Elsaphan Njora. PG-13, 75 mins, Director: Mbithi
Masya
Luke of Lies (2015) DRAMA
A close-knit trio of con artists’ trusting relationships suffers when a
street-smart woman is added to the group.
Alex Ekuo, Belinda Effah, Daniella Okeke. PG-13, 78 mins, Director:
Emmanuel Man

ENTERTAINMENT / 81
African Highlights
Biography
Queen of Katwe
A compassionate biopic that tells the story of Phiona Mutesi, a
young girl from Uganda who, despite all odds, became her country’s
first female titled chess champion.
You’d be forgiven for thinking this film’s tie to Walt Disney Studios means director
Mira Nair has softened her tone, but that is emphatically not so. Its subject, Phiona
Mutesi, grew up in one of Uganda’s largest slums, but her life was transformed
through the game of chess. Nair elegantly tells the story of Mutesi’s chess success,
without glossing over the very real difficulties facing her family. The result is a
rare thing: A film with a conscience and a Hollywood heart.
Madina Nalwanga, David Oyelowo, Lupita Nyong’o. PG, 124 mins, Director: Mira Nair
“Disney never
pressured me to
sugarcoat or
sanitise. I think
of it as my film.
It feels radical”
– Mira Nair –
Director of Queen of Katwe
2016 Disney Enterprises, Inc.

82 / ENTERTAINMENT
TV
Thailand X (Bangkok)
Frequency
Pretty Little Liars Cape Epic Grinder
Small Screen
Programmes
& Series
We selected the best TV comedies, drama, sports
and lifestyle programmes for your entertainment.
Comedy
The Grinder, Season 1, Episodes 1, 2 and 3 A man returns to his hometown
after a stint in Hollywood and attempts to run his family’s law firm.
Just for Laughs, Season 12, Episode 2 and Season 13, Episode 8
People find themselves in strange situations while captured on camera.
The Big Bang Theory, Season 7, Episodes 19 and 20 A neighbour of
two physicists teaches them about life outside the lab.
Modern Family, Season 6, Episodes 8 and 9 Three different but related
families face trials and tribulations in their uniquely comedic ways.
Sports
Cape Epic 2016 A look at the 13th edition of the Absa Cape Epic in which
mountain bikers tackle an 8-day adventure through the Western Cape.
2016 NBA Champions: Cleveland Cavaliers Season 1, Episode 1. Re-live
the Cavaliers’ championship run from training to their historic comeback.
A Giant Awakens, Episode 1 Through the lens of filmmaker Sylvain Doreau,
the spirit and challenges of American rugby are captured at all levels.
Discovery
Hong Kong III Vibrant and densely populated, Hong Kong in southeastern
China is a major port and global financial centre famed for its skyline.
South Africa Discover South Africa, the 25th-largest country in the world
by land area. As home to close to 53 million people, it is the world's 24thmost
populous nation.
Kenya (Maasai Mara National Reserve) The Maasai Mara National Reserve
is a large game reserve in Narok County, Kenya.
Londong (Lights of London) This city tour takes you through the bustling
streets of London, Britain at night and past many of the city’s most
important and iconic landmarks.
News
CNN Marketplace Africa A look at how public and private interests fuel
demand for art out of African countries.
Brilliant Ideas, Season 1, Episode 28 Michael Craig-Martin is celebrated
around the world for his distinctive works.
Follow the Leader, Season 1, Episode 1 Business journalist Farnoosh
Torabi discovers the secrets to billionaire John Paul DeJoria’s success.
Drama
The Killing, Season 1, Episodes 1 and 3 An investigation, a grieving family
and a mayoral campaign interlock after a girl’s body is found.
Frequency, Season 1, Episodes 1 and 2 A police detective is able to
communicate with her dead father via a ham radio.
Pretty Little Liars Four friends band together to solve the mystery of their
best friend’s murder.
The Originals, Season 1, Episodes 1 and 2 A family of power-hungry
vampires look to take back the city they built.
Gotham, Season 2, Episodes 1 and 2. The story behind Detective James
Gordon’s rise to prominence in Gotham City before Batman’s arrival.

ENTERTAINMENT / 83
Music Channel Explained: The Channel number for
your favourite music programmes is shown at the end
of each description. It's determined by the aircraft type,
so you will need to know what type of aircraft you’re on.
Please check the safety card in front of you.
Audio
Spotlight on
Leonard
Cohen
In this month’s spotlight section,
we offer a collection of beautiful
songs from Leonard Cohen.
Canadian singer, songwriter, musician,
poet, novelist and painter Leonard Cohen
(1934 – 2016) was a beloved artist whose
body of work included 26 albums, the latest
of which – You Want It Darker – was
released just one month before his death.
Best known for songs such as “Hallelujah,”
“Suzanne” and “Everybody Knows,” he was
a highly influential musician.
KQ Radio (with guest DJ)
Our guest DJs bring you some of Kenya’s
biggest hits. B737 CH. 3
African Classics
The best tunes from classic African artists,
from Angélique Kidjo to Umanji. B737 CH. 4
Jazz
Our highly diverse collection is a must-listen for
the discerning jazz fan. B737 CH. 7
Pop
Enjoy our sampling of all of today’s most loved
pop music. B737 CH. 8
Dance Hall/Reggae
We offer a fusion of sounds, with a range of
diverse artists. B737 CH. 6
Alamy
Classical
Sit back and relax to our classical collection’s
awe-inspiring compositions. B737 CH. 5
Chinese Pop
The perfect selection for exploring the sounds
of the Orient. B737 CH.9
Easy Listening
Unwind and take it easy with some laid-back
sounds. B737 CH. 10
Meditation
Sit back, relax and destress to the ultimate
meditation mix. ONLY ON B787 and B777
Quote
“Ring the bells that still can ring.
Forget your perfect offering.
There’s a crack in everything,
that’s how the light gets in”
– Lyrics from “Anthem,” off Cohen’s 1992 album “The Future” –

84 / ENTERTAINMENT
Kids
Comedy
Ice Age:
The Meltdown
Manny the woolly mammoth, Sid
the sloth, Diego the saber-toothed
tiger and Scrat, the prehistoric
squirrel/rat return for another
adventure, seeking higher ground.
Manny, Sid and Diego are living in a large
valley surrounded on all sides by an enormously
high ice wall. Fear strikes when
they learn the wall is holding back a large
body of water that threatens to flood their
home. When a vulture tells them of a boat
across the valley that could save them, the
friends set off to find it – but they only
have three days to do it. This highly
enjoyable film is full of witty dialogue and
a central theme of friendship despite
differences, and loyalty despite danger.
Ray Romano, Denis Leary, John Leguizamo.
PG, 91 mins, Director: Carlos Saldanha
Film and TV
The Ones to Watch
These are the most popular films from our selection.
If you’ve already seen these, take your pick
from this season’s selection of 35 family and kids films.
Young Justice
Follows the lives of teenage
superheroes and their sidekicks
as they strive to prove themselves
as members of the so-called
Justice League.
Season 2, Episode 2
Scooby Doo
In this classic and iconic cartoon,
a group ofteenage friends and their
lovable Great Dane, Scooby Doo,
travel in abright green van solving
strange and hilarious mysteries.
Season 1, Episode 14
Teen Titans
A team of five teenage
superheroes save the world from
villains while dealing with the same
issues other teens do. Based on
the DC Comics series.
Season 1, Episode 1
Storks
The storks have stopped their
infant-delivery business, but are
forced to make an exception.
Andy Samberg, Katie Crown. 87
mins, Directors: Nicholas Stoller,
Doug Sweetland

TRANSLATED / 87
Français & 中 文
Français
88
Madagascar, l’île magique
90
9 Raisons d’adorer Londres
中 文
88
神 奇 岛 屿 马 达 加 斯 加
90
爱 上 伦 敦 的 9 个 理 由

88 / TRANSLATED
Français
Voyage
L’île
mystérieuse
Tel un gigantesque point
dexclamation bordant le flanc
est du continent africain
MADAGASCAR a, de tout temps,
fasciné les voyageurs.
MADAGASCAR semble capable
d'impressionner même les globe-trotters les
plus chevronnés. Pour quiconque y débarque
pour la toute première fois, elle reste
l'île des mystères impénétrables
Une recherche que je devais effectuer
pour un de mes livres m'y conduisit une
première fois. J'étais sur mes gardes sachant
combien les premières impressions sont
parfois trompeuses. Il est toujours bon
d'essayer de voyager sans idées préconçues.
Toutefois, Madagascar est de ces pays qui
évoquent puissamment des images irrésistibles
de terres tropicales mystérieuses.
Alors que l'avion amorçait sa descente vers
Tananarive, je devais me forcer à admettre
que nous étions bien en train d'atterrir en
Afrique et non pas en Asie. De vastes rizières
en terrasses ondulaient dans le paysage
et évoquaient, vues de là-haut, les
scintillements d'un lac aux eaux émeraude
dans lesquelles on aurait jeté un caillou. Au
fur et à mesure que nous perdions de l'altitude,
je pouvais distinguer les maisons aux
couleurs pastel alignées sur les collines,
comme des parterres de fleurs décolorées
par le soleil le long d'un mur de briques
rouges Des charrettes tirées par des zébus et
des cyclo-pousses soulevaient des nuages de
poussière ocre le long de pistes sinueuses et
sales.
Un voyageur d'antan, notant l’aspect
poussiéreux rouge de l’île, prétendait que
Madagascar avait la couleur, la dureté et la
fertilité de la brique. Il ne pouvait pas avoir
plus tort.
DAME NATURE
En 1298, Marco polo décrivait les
incroyables richesses de Madagascar : « On
élève là-bas plus d'éléphants que dans
importe quelle autre province », écrivait-il.
« On y trouve des léopards, des lynx, mais
aussi de nombreux lions. »
La vérité, on l'aura deviné, était de loin
encore plus spectaculaire : alors qu'aucun
animal mentionné par Polo n'existe localement,
environ 80% des espèces naturelles
de Madagascar sont endémiques, ce qui
explique pourquoi l'île est parfois qualifiée
de huitième continent. S'étant détachée du
reste du continent africain voici quelques
135 millions d'années, Madagascar, telle
une gigantesque arche, a vu sa vie sauvage
exploser en autant de formes dynamiques
inimaginables ailleurs.
L'île s'est faite connaître comme l'une
des destinations les plus fascinantes du
monde au regard de la nature, mais aussi
pour ses stars : les lémuriens. Primates
primitifs rattachés aux singes, ils sont les
clowns et acrobates, les vrais boute-en
train de la visite de l'île. On en recense une
centaine d'espèces, allant du, bien nommé,
lémurien souris pygmée, lequel atteint à
peine les 30 g, à l'Indri qui dépasse les 9 kg.
Ce qui est encore plus impressionnant
que la première rencontre avec l'Indri
géant, c'est bien d'être réveillé par son cri,
qui sonne comme une lamentation. J'avais
monté ma tente à proximité du camp des
rangers au Parc national Andasibe-Mantadia,
- à 3 heures de route à l'est de la capitale
- pour pouvoir entendre ce qui passe
pour être le réveille-matin le plus inoubliable
au monde. Au bout du compte,
j'aurais pu planter ma tente 3 km plus loin,
car même à cette distance j'aurais encore
entendu le cri de sirène des Indris. Ce spectaculaire
Indri, de la taille d'un enfant de
7 ans déguisé dans un costume de panda
est peut-être la mascotte du Parc national
Andasibe-Mantadia, mais le Hapalémur
doré, avec qui il partage les forêts, mériterait,
lui, le premier prix de l'inventivité
évolutive : en effet, il consomme, avec son
régime alimentaire quotidien composé de
jeunes pousses de bambous toxiques, suffisamment
de cyanure pour tuer douze fois
un animal de sa taille.
« Cette espèce n'a été découverte qu'en
1986 », me murmure mon guide ranger
tandis qu'une vingtaine de ces nounours
rhinopithèques voltigent au milieu de la
canopée. « Il est difficile d'imaginer qu'il ne
puisse y avoir d'autres créatures à découvrir
encore à Madagascar. »
L'acrobatique Maki Mococo à queue
annelée - que l'on trouve dans la forêt épineuse
du parc national de l'Isalo - est très
certainement le plus célèbre des lémuriens
de l'île, mais le bizarre Aye-Aye est l'animal
le plus étrange qu'il ne vous sera jamais
donné de voir (le meilleur endroit pour
l'observer est l'île des Aye-Aye située dans le
nord-est). Dans un pays dépourvu de piverts,
ce lémurien a su remplir cette niche
disponible et débusque les insectes qui
vivent sous l'écorce des arbres grâce à ses
oreilles en forme de pavillons de trompettes
et une dextérité qu'il doit à son majeur
démesuré. L'Aye-Aye a été jugé tellement
bizarre que, lorsque le premier exemplaire
empaillé fut apporté au British Museum,
les experts le refusèrent au prétexte qu'ils
n'avaient jamais vu un attrape-nigaud de
taxidermiste aussi calamiteux.
L'ÎLE AUX CAMÉLÉONS
Au cours des siècles, Madagascar a été
la source des rumeurs les plus folles qui se
sont, au bout du compte, pour moitié avérées
: La légende du Rokh de Sindbad le
« Cette île abrite environ
la moitié de toutes
les espèces de caméléons
du monde »
marin (un gigantesque oiseau capable d'enlever
des éléphants dans ses serres) repose
très certainement sur le mythe du « Rukh »
à propos duquel Marco Polo écrivit vers
1298. Connu sous le nom scientifique
d'Aepyornis, cet oiseau était d'une taille 3 à
4 fois supérieure à celle de l'autruche.
À Madagascar, ce n'est pas seulement
la taille qui compte. En effet : D'une longueur
de 2 cm seulement, le mini-caméléon

TRANSLATED / 89
Photo: Getty Images, Shutterstock, Tanveer Badal
Brookesia Micra est considéré comme une
divinité par de nombreux Malgaches. J'ai
arpenté les pentes boisées de la Montagne
d'Ambre dans le parc national éponyme
dans l'espoir d'en découvrir un. À la place
de celui-ci, j'ai trouvé des papillons par
centaines et une magnifique collection de
tout ce que Madagascar connaît de caméléons
emblématiques.
L'île abrite environ la moitié de toutes
les espèces de caméléons du monde. Célèbres
pour être les champions du camouflage
dans la nature, les caméléons sont de
manière générale connus pour leur discrétion.
Ici, en revanche, ils sont tellement
communs qu'on a l'impression d'en voir
partout. Parfois ils dépassent du haut d'un
buisson comme autant de grosses excroissances
vertes. Leurs yeux proéminents et
mobiles leur mettent en quelque sorte des
yeux derrière la tête, ce qui contribue encore
à leur protection. À Madagascar, ils
jouissent d'un statut de créatures spirituelles
capables de voir non seulement le passé
mais aussi l'avenir.
La plupart des Malgaches protègent
aussi les serpents considérés partout dans
l'île comme l'incarnation des ancêtres.
Heureuse coïncidence, parmi les 80 espèces
de serpents présentes sur l'île, pas une seule
n'est dangereuse pour les humains.
Le naturaliste David Attenborough a
écrit : « Madagascar est une expérience sans
pareille – un exemple de faune et de flore
ayant évolué en totale autarcie pendant plus
de 60 millions d'années. Nous sommes
toujours en train de tenter de percer ses
mystères : quelle tragédie ce serait si elle
disparaissait avant même que nous n'ayons
pu les comprendre. »
LE MELTING-POT MALGACHE
« Le plus surprenant pour les gens qui
débarquent ici pour la première fois c'est le
choc culturel », nous dit Patrick Dima
Randriamboavonjy, un guide touristique
local. « Les gens viennent surtout à Madagascar
pour la vie sauvage, alors que les
habitants et la culture méritent tout autant
le voyage. »
Tant au sujet des insulaires eux-mêmes
que des espèces animales, la légende se
mélange intimement à la réalité sans que
l'on puisse clairement savoir où commence
la vérité et où finit la fiction. Tananarive
devient la capitale en 1799 sur décision d'un
roi au patronyme complexe – même au
regard des standards locaux –, Andrianampoinimerinandriantsimitoviaminandriampanjaka.
Cependant, les historiens sont
partagés quant à l'identité de ce premier
Malgache. L'île de Madagascar se situe à
400 km des côtes du continent africain et
doit son isolement plus aux courants infestés
de requins du canal de Mozambique
qu'aux immensités de l'Océan indien.
« Madagascar est l'île la
plus énigmatique au
monde. Son potentiel de
fascination est infini »
Lors de mon premier voyage vers les
Hautes Terres de Madagascar, ma rencontre
avec la puissante tribu des Merina
avait été une véritable surprise ; en effet, ses
membres sont, quant à leur aspect physique,
pratiquement indiscernables des
habitants de l'Indonésie occidentale. Par
ailleurs, des hommes des tribus de l'île Nias
(située au large de Sumatra) m'ont indiqué
des éléments de la complexe langue malgache
qui se retrouvaient dans leurs propres
langues tribales.
Au pied des hauts plateaux, il m'avait
été donné de rencontrer des membres des
18 tribus officielles que compte l'île. J'allais
de surprises en surprises devant l'étourdissante
diversité de la culture malgache :
parmi les peuples Antaimoro (gardiens des
textes sacrés en arabe ancien) et Antamabahoaka,
bon nombre sont d'origine
arabe. Les Bara et Antanosy des régions
désertiques du sud où poussent les cactus
passeraient inaperçus dans les villages de
pêcheurs du Mozambique, d'où leurs ancêtres
sont originaires, tandis que les Mahafaly
sont connus comme « ceux qui font les
tabous » et les Sakalava comme les intrépides
guerriers des savanes occidentales.
Personne ne sait avec exactitude qui
furent les premiers Malgaches mais, de nos
jours encore, de nombreux insulaires
évoquent les légendaires Vazimba, les habitants
aborigènes, des pygmées dotés de
pouvoirs surnaturels. Certains affirment
même que dans certaines parties de ce qui
est la quatrième plus grande île au monde,
on en trouve encore. « Leurs descendants
sont toujours parmi nous », m'a-t-on raconté
« mais aujourd'hui, ils sont beaucoup
plus grands et seulement reconnaissables à
leurs pouvoirs magiques. »
C'est probablement ce qui demeure l'un
des mystères non élucidés sur ce qui pourrait
bien être l'île la plus mystérieuse au
monde. Mais soit, en un lieu riche d'un tel
potentiel de fascination, n'importe quel
périple qu'on puisse y faire, laisse une envie
taraudante d'en voir encore plus.
Le meilleur de Madagascar
Les plus belles choses à voir
selon le ministre malgache du
tourisme M. Roland Ratsiraka
100% Pure nature
« Madagascar demeure, aujourd'hui encore,
d'une nature incroyablement sauvage. C'est
le havre de multiples espèces d'une faune
et d'une flore qu'on ne retrouve nulle part
ailleurs − comme le lémurien ou encore
l'une des plus petites grenouilles au monde
qui mesure tout au plus trois centimètres.
De nouvelles espèces sont découvertes
régulièrement. La vie marine constitue,
elle aussi, une attraction majeure. Les
migrations de baleines à bosse au large
des côtes orientales sont un spectacle mais
aussi une expérience inoubliable à découvrir
de juin à novembre. »
Des paysages à vous couper le souffle
« De l'emblématique baobab et des
luxuriantes forêts vierges aux plages de
rêve du nord-est, les paysages sont d'une
diversité absolue. On recense 25 parcs
nationaux dont 7 sont inscrits au patrimoine
mondial de l'UNESCO. Un programme de
300 millions de dollars US de la Banque
mondiale et du Fonds vert pour le climat
a été mis en place pour combattre la
déforestation. »
Great Adventure
« Prenez le volant d'un 4x4 et quittez les
sentiers battus ou escaladez les crêtes
déchiquetées des Tsingy dans le parc
national de Bemaraha. Ces falaises
calcaires, acérées comme des rasoirs,
impressionneront les plus aguerris des
grimpeurs. »
Les immanquables
« Il y a ici tellement à découvrir que ce serait
un crime de ne pas s'aventurer au-delà de la
capitale Antsiranana (l'ancien Diego Suarez)
et l'île de Nosy Be dans le nord, Toamasina
dans l'est mais aussi Toliara et Morondava
au sud sont autant d'incontournables ! Et
puis, faites aussi le tour de la cuisine locale ;
elle allie littéralement produits naturels et
saveurs authentiques. Ce que l'océan peut
vous offrir vous ravira - les langoustes et les
crabes sont d'une fraîcheur incomparable. »
Un coin secret
« Moi je vais sur l'île Sainte-Marie, une île au
large de la côte orientale, couverte de forêts
et ceinturée d'une plage de sable de 70 km.
Ici, on nage toute l'année. »
✈ Réservez votre vol:
kenya-airways.com

90 / TRANSLATED
Français
Consultez en page 62
la totalité de ces adresses.
Du glamour brut de
SHOREDITCH à ce haut lieu
de la culture qu'est le quartier de
SOUTH BANK, Londres a tout
ce qu'il faut pour enthousiasmer
chaque voyageur. Le printemps
contribue à embellir encore la
ville avec ses parcs et ses jardins
fleuris, d'une beauté « So British » !
Partez à la découverte à pied, à
bord d'un taxi noir ou d'un de ces
emblématiques autobus à impériale.
1
Voyage
9
Raisons
d’adorer
Londres
De là-haut, on profite de la
vue depuis une tout autre
perspective
N'hésitez pas à monter les escaliers
d'un de ces bus pour vous asseoir sur la
plate-forme pour profiter du paysage
urbain londonien, tandis que vous vous
faufilerez tranquillement le long des
rues de la ville. Le 211 qui fait la ligne
Hammersmith - Waterloo, passe devant
le stade de Chelsea puis, empruntant
Kings Road, dessert Sloane Square avant
de longer Westminster Cathedral et
The Houses of Parliament. Comme
il faut de toute manière un titre de
transport valide (Oyster card ou
Travelcard) pour les transports en
commun, la solution de facilité peut
s'avérer les bus hop on hop off avec
leur système de « montée et descente
à volonté et à chaque arrêt » au gré de
votre périple et de votre programme.
Pas mal pour quelques livres seulement.
Si vous n'arrivez pas à choisir
exactement ce que vous voulez voir,
la liste des promenades guidées ou à
thème disponibles pourra se révéler
une aide précieuse. Cinéma : (suivez les
traces d'Harry Potter, de James Bond
ou d'Alfred Hitchcock), Lugubre :
(frissonnez à l'évocation des spectres ou
de Jack l'éventreur), Musique : (revivez
les rythmes des sixties et visitez les haut
lieux londoniens que fréquentèrent les
Beatles). Il y en a vraiment pour tous les
goûts.
2
Le coup d'envoi de la saison
sportive
Le 2 avril, la course d'aviron
d'Oxford et de Cambridge marque le
début de la saison sportive à Londres.
C'est une des plus anciennes rencontres
sportives au monde (elle date de 1829)
qui attire le long des berges de la Tamise,
entre Putney et Mortlake, des centaines
de milliers de londoniens qui
agitent des fanions pour encourager les
rameurs universitaires d'Oxford ou de
Cambridge. Le Marathon de Londres a
lieu le 23 avril. Cette course rassemble
40 000 participants et pas moins de
10 fois plus de spectateurs
3
De nouveaux hôtels
spectaculaires sont en train
d'ouvrir.
Ce printemps, on assistera à l'ouverture
de quelques nouveaux hôtels londoniens
surprenants, dont le plus notable sera le
Nobu Hotel Shoreditch, avec ses 150
chambres et sa carte signée du chef de
cuisine Nobu Matsuhisa. Le super trendy
Groupe Soho House ouvre The Ned,
un spectaculaire hôtel de tradition désormais
hébergé dans un immeuble de
11 étages, qui fut le siège d'une des
banques de la City. Pour l'instant, c'est
un hôtel 5 étoiles et un club privé, riche
de plus de 200 chambres décorées dans
le style glamour défraîchi d'un paquebot
transatlantique des années 1930. L'idée
est également d'y créer un restaurant
gastronomique, d'y reproduire une épicerie-fine
New-Yorkaise, un café parisien
et une succursale du célébrissime
Cecconi's proposant une cuisine italienne
contemporaine mais classique.
Le nouveau Dorsett Shepherd’s Bush
pratiquera des prix plus abordables, plus
en rapport avec des activités de shopping
à Westfield, le plus grand centre
commercial de Londres (situé juste en
face de l'autre côté de la rue). L'établissement
propose un restaurant de dim
sum au rez-de-chaussée et un petit spa
sur le toit.
4
C’ est vous qui choisissez
votre aventure
Si vous voulez sentir monter l'adrénaline,
il y a de quoi faire. Dans le
Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, la Tour
ArcelorMittal Orbit accueille le plus
long toboggan du monde conçu par
Anish Kapoor. Au 02 Exhibition Centre,
vous pouvez admirer l'expo Star Wars
Identities qui propose plus de 200 films
à l'écran. Et la Shrek Adventure complètement
déjantée est installée sur la South
Bank (juste à côté de la Grande roue de
Londres). Pour les mordus du high-tech,
une excursion au Science Museum de
South Kensington s'impose. On y fête
les robots humanoïdes ! Jusqu'au 3 septembre,
on y expose plus de 100 robots,
allant de modèles du XVIème siècle aux
héros actuels de science- fiction. Les
enfants (de tous les âges !) y sont les
bienvenus.
5
Dîner comme les locaux
Pensez à réserver si voulez une des
tables les plus convoitées de la
capitale. A Fitzrovia, Clipstone est un
bistrot de proximité ouvert l'année dernière
en toute discrétion mais qui, depuis,
a été encensé par plusieurs critiques
gastronomiques particulièrement
réputés. Petit, mais idéalement agencé, il
attire une clientèle cultivée et sympa et
propose une cuisine italienne contemporaine
pour environ 50 £ par personne.
Tout aussi branché, on citera Pharmacy
2. Ce restaurant de l'artiste Damien
Hirst se cache au coin d'une rue sans
prétention de Vauxhall. Ce lieu branché

TRANSLATED / 91
Photo: Nicole Franzen, Ming Tang Evans, Laura Edwards
est le prolongement de Pharmacy 1,
le tout premier établissement ouvert par
Hirst dans les années 1990, et qui, à
l'époque rassemblait tout ce que
Londres comptait en matière de créateurs
de mode les plus fous. Installé dans
l'immeuble contigu au musée privé de
Hirst - the Newport Street Art Gallery -,
Pharmacy 2 est une version plus aboutie,
avec en charge de la déco, l'artiste
lui-même et, aux fourneaux le chef
Mark Hix. Si vous êtes en balade,
Borough Market abrite certaines des
meilleurs stands de nourriture à
Londres. Par contre, pour un déjeuner
dominical vraiment très sélect, rendez-vous
chez Harwood Arms, un pub
étoilé au Michelin de Fulham, où venaison
et gibier sont à l'honneur. À la
vôtre : la distillerie de gin Sipsmith,
maison bicentenaire, organise chaque
semaine des visites à partir de £15
(un G&T compris).
6
Des mystères à élucider
Explorez incognito la City comme
Sherlock Holmes le faisait de son
temps et allez à la recherche des coins
préférés de l'astucieux enquêteur. Commencez
par une visite à l'adresse de résidence
de Sherlock (et Watson) dans la
série télévisée éponyme actuelle. Rendez-vous
au 187 North Gower Street dans
le nord de Londres pour voir l'extérieur
familier de l'immeuble. Et il vous reste
encore Le Sherlock Holmes Museum à
découvrir : cet immeuble classé présente
une reconstitution du salon de Sherlock et
L’ heure est à la fête !
1. Le carnaval londonien de Notting
Hill, qui se tient lors du pont du weekend
d'August Bank Holiday, est la
plus grande fête de rue et carnaval
des Antilles en Europe. Préparez-vous
à voir les rues de Notting Hill et des
quartiers environnants résonner de
musique, du grésillement des stands
de nourriture et des chars extravagants.
Thelondonnottinghillcarnival.com
2. Green Day et Kings of Leon figureront
parmi les groupes qui se produiront cet
été au British Summer Time concert
à Hyde Park. Les tickets d'entrée sont
disponibles sur bst-hydepark.com.
3. Cette année, la fête de Saint Patrick
(le saint patron de l'Irlande) tombe le
17 mars (un vendredi). Attendez-vous
à des danses irlandaises, des chants
et de la musique dans chaque rue de
Londres mais attendez-vous aussi à des
tonnes de vert…
abrite un petit magasin de cadeaux. Fermez
le ban avec une généreuse assiette de
saucisses du Cumberland au Sherlock
Holmes Pub de Westminster. – L'endroit
regorge de souvenirs fascinants, dont le
vieux revolver de service du Dr Watson.
7
Tout est en fleur
Il n'y a pas de meilleure période pour
profiter des rues londoniennes bordées
d'arbres, notamment celles de
Notting Hill et de Chelsea, que lorsque les
glycines ornent les façades géorgiennes
aux couleurs de friandises. Question
Flower Power, vous serez servis avec le
RHS Chelsea Flower Show annuel qui se
tient cette année du 23 au 27 mai et qu'il
faut absolument visiter. Pour les amateurs
plus épris de calme, les jardins botaniques
royaux de Kew présentent une avenue de
cytises dorées, une pergola de roses roses
et une serre pleine de nénuphars datant de
l'époque de la reine Victoria. Richmond
Park, le plus grand des parcs royaux, est
un lieu de pique-nique idéal qui abrite plus
de 300 cervidés sauvages. Conseil local :
quand vous serez à Richmond, pensez à
vous arrêter pour le déjeuner ou le thé à
Petersham Nurseries, où des fleurs comestibles
décorent les mets étoilés Michelin
servis dans une serre « rustic-chic » (réservation
obligatoire). Sinon, poursuivez
jusqu'à Farmacy sur Westbourne Grove.
Des spécialités végétaliennes de toute
première fraicheur vous y attendent dans
un environnement digne d'une palmeraie.
8
« Si vous êtes en balade,
Borough Market abrite
certaines des meilleurs
stands de nourriture à
Londres. Par contre,
pour un déjeuner
dominical vraiment très
sélect, rendez-vous chez
Harwood Arms »
Art goes pop!
La Saatchi Gallery à Chelsea, propriété
du publicitaire et collectionneur
Charles Saatchi, présente d'extraor-
dinaires trésors d'art contemporain,
mais aussi des expositions époustouflantes.
La Tate Britain propose une
rétrospective majeure de l'œuvre de l'artiste
londonien David Hockney, l'un des
artistes les plus populaires et les plus
influents du Royaume-Uni au 20ème
siècle. L'exposition se poursuit jusqu'au
29 mai et promet d'être un événement
particulièrement couru jusqu'au dernier
jour. Pour quelque chose d'un peu plus
brut, Shoreditch Street Art Tours vous
guidera au travers du quartier haut en
couleur de l'East End, où des artistes de
rue, locaux et internationaux, ont créé
des fresques murales d'une vitalité intense
qui changent sans cesse. – Un
bonus pour celui ou celle qui saura découvrir
un Banksy !
9
Tout le monde sur les
toits-terrasses !
Avec la remontée du mercure, vous
pourrez déguster en terrasse un Elderflower
Cooler ou un Aperol Spritz et
avoir à vos pieds les plus beaux monuments
de la ville. A noter également :
les vues imprenables depuis l'Aqua
Shard, un repaire de buveurs de 3 étages,
situé au sommet de The Shard, l'un des
gratte-ciel les plus design de Londres.
N'oublions pas non plus le toit-terrasse
du Radio Rooftop Bar du ME London
Hotel, avec ses faux airs plutôt cool
d'Ibiza et ses DJ mixant sur les platines
jusqu'à pas d'heure. Au niveau de la rue,
les « beer gardens » restent toujours
aussi sympas. Essayez donc The Ship.
Ce pub de Wandsworth est l'adresse
idéale pour les bières artisanales, les
burgers juteux cuits au barbecue et son
ambiance chaleureuse. Autre conseil de
pro : le théâtre lyrique de Hammersmith
a inauguré récemment un vaste toit-terrasse
surplombé d'une couverture intelligente
et d'une canopée vivante. Super
pour un déjeuner ou pour boire un verre
en toute tranquillité.
✈ Réservez votre vol:
kenya-airways.com

92 / TRANSLATED
中 文
旅 行
神 秘 岛 屿
在 非 洲 东 侧 , 有 一 座 形 如 巨 大
惊 叹 号 的 岛 屿 , 它 就 是 马 达 加
斯 加 , 这 座 岛 屿 自 古 以 来 就 让
旅 行 者 们 感 到 无 比 神 秘 。
马 达 加 斯 加 的 魅 力 似 乎 就 连 经 验 丰
富 的 旅 行 者 也 能 迷 惑 。 第 一 次 踏 上 这
座 岛 屿 的 人 都 会 觉 得 这 是 一 座 不 可 思
议 的 神 秘 岛 屿 。
我 第 一 次 拜 访 这 座 岛 屿 是 为 了 为 当
时 正 在 写 的 一 本 书 进 行 研 究 , 我 担 心
这 种 第 一 印 象 会 让 我 产 生 误 解 。 不 带
任 何 成 见 地 踏 上 旅 途 总 是 好 的 , 不
过 , 马 达 加 斯 加 这 个 国 家 总 是 可 以 无
法 抗 拒 地 唤 起 神 秘 热 带 土 地 的 气 息 。
当 飞 机 降 落 到 塔 那 那 利 佛 后 , 我 不 得
不 努 力 否 定 自 己 的 印 象 : 我 在 亚 洲 而
不 是 在 非 洲 。 从 空 中 俯 瞰 , 一 大 片 梯
田 随 风 泛 起 涟 漪 , 就 像 是 一 块 石 头 落
入 了 波 光 粼 粼 的 翠 绿 色 池 塘 。 随 着 飞
机 降 低 , 我 看 到 山 坡 上 色 彩 柔 和 的 房
屋 , 仿 佛 日 落 时 分 红 砖 墙 上 的 花 朵 。
瘤 牛 车 和 人 力 车 沿 着 蜿 蜒 的 土 路 行
进 , 扬 起 了 赭 色 的 尘 土 。
早 期 有 一 位 旅 行 者 留 意 到 这 座 岛 屿
红 色 的 尘 土 , 声 称 马 达 加 斯 加 拥 有 砖 的
颜 色 、 硬 度 和 肥 沃 。 他 简 直 大 错 特 错 。
大 自 然 的 力 量
1298 年 , 马 可 波 罗 (Marco Polo) 这
样 描 述 马 达 加 斯 加 不 可 思 议 的 物
产 :“ 这 个 地 方 比 其 他 任 何 地 区 繁 殖
的 大 象 都 多 ,” 他 写 道 ,“ 他 们 还 有
大 量 的 豹 子 、 猞 猁 和 狮 子 。”
而 真 相 比 他 描 述 的 更 加 令 人 难 以 置
信 : 尽 管 马 可 波 罗 提 到 的 任 何 动 物 都
不 存 在 于 此 , 但 这 座 被 称 为 第 八 大 洲
的 岛 屿 是 岛 上 约 80% 自 然 生 物 的 唯 一
栖 息 地 。 在 超 过 1.35 亿 年 前 , 马 达
加 斯 加 就 像 一 条 巨 大 的 方 舟 漂 离 了 非
洲 大 陆 , 随 后 岛 上 的 野 生 动 植 物 迅 猛
发 展 成 世 界 上 独 一 无 二 的 物 种 。
这 座 岛 屿 成 为 了 地 球 上 最 吸 引 人 的
野 生 动 植 物 栖 息 地 , 而 在 这 些 动 植 物
中 , 最 令 人 瞩 目 的 当 属 狐 猴 。 它 们 是
猴 子 最 原 始 的 亲 缘 动 物 , 就 像 活 跃 在
这 座 岛 屿 上 的 小 丑 和 杂 技 演 员 , 给 来
到 这 里 的 每 一 位 旅 客 带 来 欢 乐 。 狐 猴
约 有 100 个 种 类 , 重 量 从 30 克 ( 侏 儒
鼠 狐 猴 ) 到 9 公 斤 ( 马 达 加 斯 加 大 狐
猴 ) 不 等 。
如 果 还 有 什 么 比 第 一 次 见 到 一 只 硕
大 的 马 达 加 斯 加 大 狐 猴 更 让 人 惊 讶 ,
那 就 是 被 它 的 嚎 叫 声 唤 醒 。 我 把 帐 篷
支 在 靠 近 安 达 西 贝 - 曼 塔 迪 亚 国 家 公 园
管 理 处 旁 , 该 公 园 距 首 都 以 东 三 小 时
车 程 , 在 可 以 听 到 世 界 上 最 令 人 难 忘
的 黎 明 嚎 叫 声 的 范 围 内 。 事 实 证 明 ,
即 使 我 驻 扎 在 3 公 里 以 外 , 仍 然 能 够
听 到 马 达 加 斯 加 大 狐 猴 如 警 铃 般 响 彻
云 霄 的 嚎 叫 声 。 这 令 人 称 奇 的 大 狐 猴
就 像 是 穿 着 熊 猫 服 的 7 岁 小 孩 , 它 们
或 许 是 安 达 西 贝 - 曼 塔 迪 亚 国 家 公 园 最
大 的 亮 点 , 而 与 它 们 共 享 这 片 森 林 的
还 有 金 竹 狐 猴 , 这 种 动 物 在 进 化 中 展
现 的 创 造 力 冠 绝 整 个 动 物 世 界 , 它 们
每 天 从 竹 子 中 吸 收 的 氰 化 物 足 以 让 它
们 杀 死 体 型 比 自 己 大 11 倍 的 动 物 。
“ 直 到 1986 年 , 科 学 界 才 对 这 些
动 物 有 了 认 知 ,” 就 在 我 的 护 林 员 向
导 低 声 说 话 时 ,20 只 金 竹 狐 猴 从 树 冠
间 穿 越 而 过 。“ 很 难 想 象 在 马 达 加 斯 加
岛 上 还 有 其 他 尚 未 被 发 现 的 生 物 。”
善 跳 跃 攀 爬 的 环 尾 狐 猴 栖 息 在 伊 萨
卢 国 家 公 园 的 多 刺 森 林 中 , 是 岛 屿 上 当
之 无 愧 最 出 名 的 狐 猴 , 但 奇 特 的 狐 猿 或
许 是 游 客 能 见 到 的 最 不 寻 常 的 动 物 ( 在
狐 猿 岛 的 东 北 部 最 容 易 发 现 )。 这 里 没
有 啄 木 鸟 , 这 种 狐 猴 就 弥 补 了 这 个 角
色 , 它 们 利 用 其 喇 叭 状 的 耳 朵 和 巧 妙
的 探 索 技 巧 ( 长 长 的 指 头 ) 捕 捉 树 皮
下 的 昆 虫 。 狐 猿 外 形 极 为 奇 特 , 以 至
于 当 第 一 具 狐 猿 标 本 送 到 大 英 博 物 馆
后 , 专 家 们 认 为 该 标 本 是 业 余 剥 制 者
的 恶 作 剧 , 因 此 拒 绝 收 纳 。
变 色 龙 岛
几 个 世 纪 以 来 , 马 达 加 斯 加 是 无 数
难 辨 真 假 的 谣 言 的 源 头 :Sinbad's
Roc( 一 只 能 够 叼 起 大 象 一 起 飞 翔 的 勇
猛 之 鸟 ) 的 传 说 源 自 马 可 波 罗 于 1298 年
所 写 的 “rukh”。 这 种 鸟 的 学 名 为 隆
鸟 , 它 的 体 型 是 鸵 鸟 的 三 至 四 倍 。
然 而 , 在 马 达 加 斯 加 并 不 是 以 尺 寸
论 英 雄 : 许 多 马 达 加 斯 加 人 将 体 长 仅
2 厘 米 的 迷 你 变 色 龙 视 为 神 。 我 在 琥 珀
山 国 家 公 园 树 木 丛 生 的 一 侧 徒 步 过 ,
奢 望 能 看 见 一 只 迷 你 变 色 龙 。 然 而 我
并 没 有 找 到 迷 你 变 色 龙 , 却 发 现 了 成
千 上 万 的 蝴 蝶 和 很 多 马 达 加 斯 加 其 他
标 志 性 的 变 色 龙 。
这 座 岛 屿 是 世 界 上 大 约 一 半 变 色 龙
物 种 的 栖 息 地 。 它 们 是 著 名 的 自 然 伪
装 专 家 , 非 常 难 以 觉 察 。 但 是 在 这
“ 这 座 岛 屿 是 世 界 上 大
约 一 半 变 色 龙 物 种 的
栖 息 地 ”
里 , 变 色 龙 的 存 在 非 常 寻 常 , 到 处 都
能 发 现 它 们 的 身 影 , 有 时 候 它 们 就 在
灌 木 的 顶 端 , 像 一 只 只 绿 色 的 拇 指 。
它 们 突 出 的 眼 睛 让 其 能 够 洞 察 身 后 的
事 物 , 在 马 达 加 斯 加 被 视 为 有 灵 性 的
生 物 , 因 为 它 们 不 仅 能 够 看 到 过 去 ,
还 能 看 到 未 来 , 也 因 此 受 到 保 护 。
大 多 数 马 达 加 斯 加 人 也 保 护 蛇 类 ,

他 们 认 为 蛇 是 祖 先 的 化 身 , 所 以 岛 上 常
常 能 看 到 蛇 的 踪 影 。 巧 妙 之 处 在 于 , 在
岛 上 的 80 种 蛇 类 中 , 没 有 一 种 对 人 类
有 害 。
正 如 自 然 学 家 David Attenborough
所 说 :“ 马 达 加 斯 加 是 一 座 无 法 复 制 的 岛
屿 , 这 里 拥 有 一 系 列 独 一 无 二 的 动 植 物 ,
它 们 已 经 在 此 孤 立 地 进 化 了 超 过 6000 万
年 。 我 们 仍 在 努 力 揭 开 这 座 岛 屿 的 神 秘 面
纱 , 如 果 我 们 在 完 全 了 解 它 之 前 就 失 去 了
它 , 那 该 是 多 么 的 可 惜 。”
马 达 加 斯 加 的 熔 炉
“ 首 先 让 游 客 感 到 惊 讶 的 是 这 里 的
文 化 冲 击 ,” 当 地 导 游 Patrick Dima
Randriamboavonjy 说 道 ,“ 人 们 通 常 是
为 了 这 里 的 野 生 动 物 而 来 到 马 达 加 斯 加 ,
但 马 达 加 斯 加 之 旅 也 会 充 满 人 文 气 息 。”
马 达 加 斯 加 有 许 多 双 足 野 生 栖 居 动
物 , 传 奇 通 常 与 事 实 交 杂 在 一 起 , 让 人
难 辨 真 假 。 首 都 塔 那 那 利 佛 建 立 于
1799 年 , 名 称 源 于 一 位 国 王 的 名 字
Andrianampoinimerinandriantsimitoviaminandriampanjaka,
即 使 是 按 照 马
达 加 斯 加 人 的 标 准 来 说 , 这 个 名 字 也 极
为 复 杂 , 但 历 史 学 家 也 无 法 确 定 谁 是 第
一 个 马 达 加 斯 加 人 。 马 达 加 斯 加 距 离 非
洲 大 陆 海 岸 线 只 有 400 公 里 , 但 相 比 印
度 洋 对 它 的 隔 离 作 用 , 莫 桑 比 克 海 峡 有
鲨 鱼 出 没 的 强 大 洋 流 更 是 让 这 里 与 外 界
相 隔 。
在 我 第 一 次 去 马 达 加 斯 加 的 丘 陵 地
带 时 , 我 居 然 遇 到 了 来 自 强 大 的 梅 里 纳
部 落 的 族 人 , 他 们 与 印 度 尼 西 亚 西 部 的
居 民 相 比 几 无 二 致 。 而 在 遥 远 的 尼 亚 斯
岛 ( 苏 门 答 腊 海 岸 附 近 ), 我 发 现 了 能
够 以 自 己 的 部 落 语 言 识 别 复 杂 的 马 达 加
斯 加 语 言 元 素 的 部 落 族 人 。
在 马 达 加 斯 加 的 中 部 高 原 地 带 , 我
遇 到 了 岛 屿 上 所 有 18 个 官 方 认 证 部 落
的 族 人 , 对 马 达 加 斯 加 文 化 的 多 样 性 也
越 来 越 震 惊 : 许 多 安 泰 莫 罗 人 ( 古 阿 拉
伯 语 中 的 守 护 者 ) 和 Antambahoaka 人
仍 具 有 阿 拉 伯 特 色 ; 南 部 仙 人 掌 沙 漠 的
巴 拉 人 和 安 塔 诺 西 人 与 他 们 在 莫 桑 比 克
渔 村 的 祖 先 相 比 几 乎 没 有 改 变 ;
Mahafaly 人 则 被 称 为 “ 禁 忌 制 造 者 ”,
萨 卡 拉 瓦 人 则 是 西 部 大 草 原 上 的 无 畏
勇 士 。
没 有 人 真 正 知 道 谁 是 第 一 个 马 达 加
斯 加 人 , 但 即 使 到 了 今 天 , 岛 民 们 仍
然 认 为 传 说 中 拥 有 魔 法 力 量 的 瓦 赞 巴
人 ( 岛 上 原 始 的 侏 儒 居 民 ) 是 第 一 批
马 达 加 斯 加 人 。 有 些 人 说 , 在 世 界 上 第
四 大 岛 与 世 隔 绝 的 地 区 , 仍 然 生 活 着 瓦
赞 巴 人 。“ 他 们 的 后 裔 就 在 我 们 之
间 ,” 人 们 告 诉 我 ,“ 但 如 今 他 们 的 身
高 更 高 了 , 唯 一 能 够 识 别 他 们 的 方 法 就
是 发 现 他 们 的 魔 法 。”
在 这 座 世 界 上 最 神 秘 的 岛 屿 之 一 ,
这 可 能 将 继 续 成 为 众 多 未 解 之 谜 之 一 。
但 在 这 样 一 个 令 人 神 往 的 地 方 , 任 何 行
程 都 会 让 人 流 连 忘 返 , 乐 不 思 蜀 。
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9 个 爱 上
伦 敦 的
理 由
从 魅 力 四 射 的 肖 迪 奇 到 文 化 热
点 南 岸 , 伦 敦 能 给 每 一 位 旅 客
带 去 灵 感 。 春 天 让 这 座 城 市 的
公 园 和 庭 院 百 花 绽 放 , 毕 现 英
伦 美 色 。 徒 步 、 乘 坐 黑 色 出 租
车 或 标 志 性 的 双 层 巴 士 游 览 这
座 城 市 都 是 不 错 的 选 择 。
1
TRANSLATED / 93
游 客 可 以 通 过 不 同 的 视 角
欣 赏 美 景
踏 上 一 辆 双 层 巴 士 , 在 上 层 选 择 一 个 座
位 , 沿 着 城 市 道 路 悠 闲 地 欣 赏 伦 敦 各 个
著 名 景 点 。 例 如 , 从 哈 默 史 密 斯 开 往
滑 铁 卢 的 211 路 巴 士 , 途 径 切 尔 西 足 球
场 , 沿 着 国 王 路 开 往 斯 隆 广 场 , 然 后 经
过 威 斯 敏 斯 特 主 教 座 堂 和 国 会 大 厦 。 只
需 要 一 张 适 用 于 所 有 公 共 交 通 工 具 的 充
值 牡 蛎 卡 (Oyster card) 或 Travelcard,
就 能 随 时 随 地 上 下 车 , 定 制 自 己 的 路 线
和 行 程 。 这 几 镑 会 花 得 很 值 。 如 果 无 法
确 定 自 己 想 要 游 览 的 地 方 , 可 以 参 加 任
何 配 向 导 或 带 主 题 的 徒 步 之 旅 。 主 题 包
括 电 影 ( 走 进 哈 利 · 波 特 、 詹 姆 斯 · 邦 德
或 阿 尔 弗 雷 德 · 希 区 柯 克 的 世 界 )、 鬼 屋
( 幽 灵 之 旅 或 开 膛 手 杰 克 ) 或 音 乐 ( 追
寻 60 年 代 的 摇 摆 节 奏 , 游 览 披 头 士 乐
队 在 伦 敦 常 去 的 地 方 ) 等 , 每 个 人 都 能
在 这 里 找 到 自 己 喜 欢 的 行 程 。
2
现 在 正 值 体 育 赛 季 伊 始
4 月 2 日 举 行 的 牛 津 大 学 与 剑 桥 大
学 赛 艇 标 志 着 伦 敦 春 季 运 动 赛 季 的 开
始 。 这 是 世 界 上 最 古 老 的 体 育 赛 事
( 始 于 1829 年 ), 吸 引 着 成 千 上 万 的
伦 敦 人 在 泰 晤 士 河 畔 ( 帕 特 尼 区 和 莫 特
莱 克 区 之 间 ) 挥 舞 旗 帜 , 为 牛 津 大 学 和
剑 桥 大 学 的 赛 艇 运 动 员 们 加 油 助
威 。4 月 23 日 有 一 场 伦 敦 马 拉 松 比
赛 , 全 程 26 英 里 , 约 有 4 万 名 参 与
者 , 还 有 约 40 万 名 观 赛 者 。
3
壮 观 的 新 酒 店 即 将 开 业
这 个 春 天 , 伦 敦 有 一 些 新 的 酒 店 即 将
开 业 , 其 中 最 令 人 期 待 的 是 Nobu Hotel
Shoreditch, 该 酒 店 拥 有 150 间 客 房 , 以
及 由 主 厨 松 久 信 幸 主 理 的 美 食 。 极 具 时 尚
感 的 Soho House 集 团 还 推 出 了 The Ned
酒 店 , 这 家 令 人 惊 叹 的 遗 产 酒 店 的 前 身 是
伦 敦 金 融 商 业 区 一 栋 高 11 层 的 银 行 总
部 。 如 今 , 这 里 摇 身 一 变 成 为 一 家 五 星 级
酒 店 及 私 人 会 员 俱 乐 部 , 拥 有 200 多 间 客
房 , 采 用 20 世 纪 30 年 代 远 洋 邮 轮 复 古 的
格 调 。 该 酒 店 还 必 将 成 为 顶 级 餐 饮 的 好 去
处 , 这 里 有 纽 约 风 格 的 熟 食 店 、 巴 黎 风 格
的 咖 啡 馆 和 世 界 闻 名 的 Cecconi's 分 店 ,
供 应 当 代 意 大 利 经 典 美 食 。 除 此 之 外 , 还
有 全 新 亮 相 的 实 惠 餐 厅 Dorsett Shepherd's
Bush。 从 酒 店 前 往 隔 街 相 望 的 伦 敦 最 大
购 物 商 场 韦 斯 特 菲 尔 德 购 物 中 心 也 十 分 便
利 。 酒 店 顶 楼 是 一 个 小 型 屋 顶 水 疗 中 心 ,
底 楼 还 设 有 一 家 点 心 餐 厅 。

94 / TRANSLATED
4
历 险 之 旅 任 您 挑 选
如 果 您 想 要 肾 上 腺 素 飙 升 , 冒 险 之
旅 在 等 待 着 您 。 安 赛 乐 米 塔 尔 轨 道
是 世 界 上 最 高 的 轨 道 , 位 于 伊 丽 莎 白 女
王 奥 运 公 园 内 , 由 Anish Kapoor 设
计 ; 假 座 02 展 览 中 心 的 星 球 大 战 主 题
展 览 展 出 200 多 个 电 影 道 具 ; 您 也 可 以
选 择 在 南 岸 的 伦 敦 眼 旁 展 开 一 场 疯 狂 的
史 莱 克 历 险 。 如 果 您 是 科 技 迷 , 何 不 前
往 南 肯 辛 顿 的 科 学 博 物 馆 参 观 参 观 人 形
机 器 人 呢 ? 博 物 馆 内 陈 列 着 100 多 部 机
器 人 , 从 16 世 纪 的 模 型 到 科 幻 英 雄 应 有
尽 有 , 这 些 机 器 人 将 一 直 展 出 至
9 月 3 日 。 欢 迎 各 个 年 龄 层 的 儿 童 前 来
参 观 。
5
“ 如 果 您 喜 欢 动 态 活
动 , 不 妨 去 逛 逛 博 罗 市
场 , 这 里 有 伦 敦 最 棒 的
美 食 摊 , 还 有 一 流 的 周
日 烤 肉 店 Harwood
Arms”
您 可 以 品 尝 当 地 人 最 爱 的
美 食
一 定 要 在 首 都 最 受 欢 迎 的 餐 厅 之 一 订
座 。 位 于 费 兹 洛 维 亚 的 Clipstone 是 一
间 亲 民 小 酒 馆 , 去 年 悄 然 开 业 , 但 多 位
挑 剔 的 美 食 评 论 家 对 其 赞 誉 有 加 。 酒 馆
不 大 但 布 局 巧 妙 , 吸 引 着 一 些 文 雅 又 充
满 活 力 的 人 群 , 还 供 应 美 味 现 代 的 意 大
利 菜 , 人 均 消 费 约 50 英 镑 。 同 样 受 到
欢 迎 的 Pharmacy 2 位 于 沃 克 斯 豪 尔 一
个 不 起 眼 的 角 落 , 是 艺 术 家 Damien
Hirst 开 的 餐 厅 。 这 间 热 门 的 餐 厅 延 续
了 Hirst 第 一 间 餐 厅 Pharmacy 1 的 知 名
度 ,Pharmacy 1 开 设 于 20 世 纪 90 年
代 , 伦 敦 的 时 尚 人 群 经 常 光 顾 。
Pharmacy 2 坐 落 在 Hirst 自 己 的 私 人 博
物 馆 新 港 街 艺 术 画 廊 (Newport Street
Art Gallery) 旁 , 风 格 高 雅 时 尚 , 艺 术
家 亲 自 负 责 出 挑 的 装 饰 , 主 厨 Mark
Hix 则 主 理 美 食 。 如 果 您 喜 欢 动 态 活
动 , 不 妨 去 逛 逛 博 罗 市 场 , 这 里 有 伦 敦
最 棒 的 美 食 摊 , 还 有 一 流 的 周 日 烤 肉 店
Harwood Arms, 这 是 富 勒 姆 一 家 米 其
林 星 级 酒 吧 , 特 色 是 游 戏 和 野 味 。
美 酒 佳 酿 : 有 着 200 年 历 史 的 Sipsmith
Gin Distillery 每 周 有 一 次 参 观 活 动 , 价
格 为 15 英 镑 起 ( 含 G&T)。
6
无 穷 奥 秘 待 您 探 索
像 福 尔 摩 斯 一 样 对 这 座 城 市 进 行 秘
密 探 索 , 拜 访 一 些 经 验 老 道 的 侦 探 最 常
出 没 的 神 秘 之 地 。 就 从 探 访 夏 洛 克 和 华
生 在 热 播 连 续 剧 《 神 探 夏 洛 克 》 中 的 住
址 开 始 吧 。 在 伦 敦 北 部 的 高 尔 北 街
187 号 就 能 看 到 其 熟 悉 的 外 观 。 还 可 以
参 观 福 尔 摩 斯 博 物 馆 : 这 是 一 栋 标 志 性
的 建 筑 , 内 有 福 尔 摩 斯 家 客 厅 的 仿 制
版 , 还 有 一 间 小 礼 品 店 。 最 后 在 位 于 威
斯 敏 斯 特 的 福 尔 摩 斯 酒 吧 点 一 份 坎 特 伯
兰 香 肠 , 享 用 一 顿 丰 盛 的 晚 餐 , 这 里 满
是 妙 趣 横 生 的 复 古 装 潢 , 还 有 华 生 医 生
的 老 式 左 轮 手 枪 。
7
中 文
万 物 生 机 盎 然
这 是 观 赏 伦 敦 绿 树 成 荫 的 街 道 最 好
的 时 节 , 尤 其 是 在 诺 丁 山 和 切 尔 西 一
带 , 淡 紫 色 的 紫 藤 装 点 着 乔 治 时 期 的 糖
果 色 房 屋 。 如 果 想 参 观 盛 开 的 花 朵 , 一
定 要 莅 临 一 年 一 度 的 切 尔 西 花 展 (5 月
23 日 至 27 日 ); 但 如 果 更 喜 欢 安 静 ,
可 以 前 往 位 于 裘 园 的 皇 家 植 物 园 , 那 里
有 一 条 金 莲 花 树 大 道 , 一 个 粉 色 玫 瑰 藤
架 园 和 一 个 自 维 多 利 亚 女 王 时 期 就 种 满
了 睡 莲 的 玻 璃 温 室 。 里 士 满 公 园 是 最 大
的 皇 家 公 园 , 也 是 野 餐 的 理 想 去 处 , 这
里 还 生 活 着 300 多 头 野 鹿 。 当 地 人 小 贴
士 : 来 到 里 士 满 , 一 定 要 在 Petersham
Nurseries 享 用 午 餐 或 下 午 茶 , 在 古 色 古
香 的 玻 璃 屋 内 享 用 可 食 用 的 花 卉 做 成 的
米 其 林 星 级 美 食 ( 须 提 前 预 订 )。 或 者
也 可 以 前 往 位 于 维 斯 特 波 恩 路 的 Farmacy
享 用 极 新 鲜 的 素 食 , 餐 厅 内 棕 榈 郁 郁 ,
绿 意 盎 然 。
8
艺 术 正 流 行 !
位 于 切 尔 西 的 萨 奇 画 廊 由 广 告 大 师
兼 收 藏 家 Charles Saatchi 所 有 , 这 里 有
各 种 令 人 激 动 的 展 品 , 是 名 副 其 实 的 当 代
艺 术 宝 库 。 在 泰 特 美 术 馆 有 一 场 David
Hockney 的 作 品 回 顾 展 , 他 是 20 世 纪
最 受 欢 迎 和 最 具 影 响 力 的 英 国 艺 术 家 之
一 ( 也 是 伦 敦 居 民 ), 展 览 将 持 续
至 5 月 29 日 , 必 将 成 为 热 门 展 览 。 若
想 领 略 更 街 头 的 艺 术 , 肖 迪 奇 街 头 艺 术
之 旅 将 带 领 您 走 过 五 颜 六 色 的 伦 敦 东
区 , 当 地 街 头 艺 术 家 和 国 际 街 头 艺 术 家
创 作 的 各 种 壁 画 层 出 不 穷 , 充 满 生 命
力 , 快 来 这 儿 找 找 街 头 艺 术 家 Banksy
的 作 品 吧 !
9
屋 顶 也 热 闹 非 凡 ……
随 着 气 温 缓 缓 升 高 , 享 用 一 杯
Elderflower Cooler 或 Aperol Spritz,
欣 赏 这 座 城 市 最 著 名 的 地 标 。Aqua
Shard 酒 吧 共 有 三 层 , 坐 落 在 伦 敦 最 迷
人 的 摩 天 大 楼 碎 片 大 厦 的 顶 端 , 在 这
里 , 您 将 能 欣 赏 到 无 可 匹 敌 的 美 景 。 在
全 新 开 幕 的 ME 伦 敦 酒 店 , 您 可 以 找
到 Radio Rooftop Bar, 酒 吧 采 用 颇 具
特 色 的 伊 比 沙 岛 风 格 , 还 有 DJ 嗨 爆 全
场 , 直 至 凌 晨 。 在 地 面 一 层 , 啤 酒 花 园
的 欢 乐 气 氛 感 染 着 每 一 个 人 。Try The
Ship 酒 吧 位 于 旺 兹 沃 思 , 氛 围 轻 松 愉
悦 , 供 应 精 酿 啤 酒 和 多 汁 烧 烤 汉 堡 。
行 家 小 贴 士 : 哈 默 史 密 斯 的 Lyric 剧 院
最 近 新 开 了 一 个 大 型 的 屋 顶 露 台 , 配 备
智 能 设 施 和 天 蓬 , 是 避 开 人 群 享 用 午 餐
和 饮 品 的 绝 佳 去 处 。
✈ 预 订 航 班 ,
敬 请 访 问 kenya-airways.com

SAFARI NJEMA / 97
✈ In February 1977, the first KQ
aircraft took to the skies.
1Today Kenya
Airways is Africa’s
#1 largest airline.
Safari Njema
Time flies
It’s a Celebration!
This year marks 40 years
since the first Kenya Airways
flight. And what better way
to celebrate than to roll out
the red carpet for KQ staff?
With their dedication,
Kenya Airways has grown
to become a leading player
in Africa. Customers also
shared in the anniversary
celebrations, with up to 40
percent discounts on tickets
to select destinations, plus a
limited offer of US$ 1977 for
business class tickets to Paris,
London and Amsterdam.
Looking forward to the next
milestone!

SAFARI NJEMA / 99
KQ serves 52
destinations,
42 of those are
in Africa.
News
✈ Over 3,500 KQ employees
work hard to ensure every trip
is memorable.
Launch
New Website
Yes, it’s official. Kenya Airways’ new website is live. And, it’s
better than ever! There are plenty of extra features available to
make every journey with KQ an exceptional one, from start to
finish. Discover it for yourself online.
~ www.kenya-airways.com
Internet
Ticket Changer
Shutterstock
When planning a journey, things can change quickly. That is
why Kenya Airways passengers can manage their own bookings
online. Change journey dates, or upgrade from economy
to business class – it’s all possible with a few clicks. Just log in to
the KQ website and click on the “Manage My Booking” tab.
Quote
“In Paris,
I like to try and
do nothing...
but that’s
impossible”
– Victor Hugo –
French poet, novelist and dramatist
Extra
More flights
to Hong Kong
and Vietnam
Kenya Airways is boosting flight frequency into Asia through
two new codeshare agreements. In conjunction with Hong
Kong Airlines, Kenya Airways is now offering daily flights to
Hong Kong (HKG) via Bangkok (BKK).
A second agreement with Vietnam Airways covers the following
routes: Bangkok (BKK) – Hanoi and Saigon (HAN/
SGN); Nairobi (NBO) – Hanoi (HAN); and Hanoi (HAN)
– Kuala Lumpur (KUL).
~ Kenya Airways is extending its service to Paris,
running six direct KQ flights per week and two daily
KL-codeshare flights via Amsterdam.

SAFARI NJEMA / 101
KQ was the first
airline in Africa to
launch a carbon offset
programme in 2011.
News
✈ The Kenya Airways Board has three
female directors.
Get involved
World Wildlife Day
World Wildlife Day is on 3 March 2017. Help to sustain the
planet’s wildlife for generations to come with Kenya Airways’
carbon offset programme. Forgot to offset your journey
before departure? You can still do your bit today! Go to
climatecare.org, and click on the carbon calculator.
Wildlife Works
Sustainability
Towards a
Greener Future
Kenya Airways is committed to sustainability.
Its carbon offset programme with Wildlife Works
in Kasigau Corridor can make a real difference –
with your help.
With every Kenya Airways flight, you can help to protect the
environment, support local communities and fight climate
change. Just tick a box when you book to offset the CO2
emissions of your flight. Payments made by passengers fund
ground-breaking projects such as Kasigau Corridor REDD+.
The Kasigau Corridor in Kenya is home to a magnificent
diversity of wildlife. Connecting Tsavo East and Tsavo West
National Parks, the area boasts over 50 species of large
mammals, more than 300 species of birds, and important
populations of endangered animals, including cheetahs and
African elephants.
Rapid deforestation caused by slash-and-burn agriculture is
threatening their habitat. The Kasigau Corridor project is
fighting to protect some 500,000 acres of forest in the region.
Trees remove CO2 from the atmosphere, so saving the forest
also helps to limit CO2 emissions. Add to that a rural community
of 100,000 people who stand to benefit from emission
funds channelled into education and employment, and there is
a lot that can be accomplished here.
Quote
“The battle
against climate
change cannot be
won without the
world’s forests –
this is now clear”
– Ban Ki-moon –
Former United Nations Secretary-General

Flying Blue members can
earn Miles in numerous
ways. Miles flown is just one
of the determining factors.
Flying Blue
SAFARI NJEMA / 103
✈ With Flying Blue, you earn Award
Miles and use them to treat yourself to
a flight or an upgrade.
Membership levels
Miles!
Miles!
Miles!
The Flying Blue frequent flyer programme allows you to earn
Award Miles for every flight you take with Kenya Airways or
a SkyTeam partner. You can then redeem these Miles against
KQ-operated flights or an upgrade.
There are four membership levels in Flying Blue and with each qualifying
flight you take, you will earn Level Miles that will take you to a higher
level. When you first enrol, you will be awarded Ivory status, which progresses
to Silver, Gold and ultimately Platinum. The more you travel with
us or our partner airlines, the higher your level becomes, which results in
you earning more Award Miles and enjoying more benefits.
Award Miles can be redeemed for flights to destinations selected by
Kenya Airways and to destinations covered by Sky Team partner airlines.
Your accumulated Award Miles are valid for twenty months, which can
be extended with a flight made on Kenya Airways or one of our SkyTeam
partners at least once every twenty months.
The total number of Miles credited to your account depends on the
distance flown and travel class chosen.
~ Enrol now and start to enjoy the benefits Flying Blue has to offer. Go to
flyingblue.com for more information and to sign up.
1
Easy Does It
Five steps to make
the most of your Miles:
Exchange
Award Miles can be redeemed for a flight to
any Kenya Airways destination or an upgrade to
Business Class.
2
Check
Your choice of destination determines the
number of Miles required for your Award ticket. So
please check if you have sufficient Miles for your
choice. You can check this on flyingblue.com. It is
advisable to have flexible date options in case your
initial choice is not available.
3
Redeem
Once you have made your choice, you can
redeem your Award Miles in several ways:
A. Call the Kenya Airways contact centres in
Nairobi on +254 20 327 4747; +254 734 104747
or +254 711 024747.
B. Visit kenya-airways.com and go to
“Flying Blue-Award Booking”.
C. Visit flyingblue.com and go to “Spend Miles-
Award Order Form”. Contact us via
kenya-airways.custhelp.com for further information.
4
Tax
Award Miles do not cover tax charges. These
will need to be paid for by you, and can be done so
via credit card, M-Pesa or a cash payment at any
Kenya Airways office.
5
Ticket
Once payment has been received, your e-ticket
will be sent to you at your stated email address.
~ Award tickets are subject to seat availability. In the
event that no seats are available, you can opt for a Flex
Award, which gives you a confirmed ticket for double the
Award Miles.
Shutterstock
~ Award Miles can be used to upgrade to Business
Class when you have already purchased an Economy
Class Kenya Airways ticket on B, Y, M and U classes for
all routes. All upgrades are subject to seat availability in
Business Class.

WE KNOW THAT SOMETIMES GETTING BACK QUICKLY
IS AS IMPORTANT AS GETTING THERE.
With 20 SkyTeam member airlines and a large number of partners to connect you to the world,
travelling is seamless. Covering more than 1,060 destinations worldwide and providing access to over
670 exclusive lounges, SkyTeam makes it easy to get wherever you need to go. Visit skyteam.com

SkyTeam operates more than
17,000 departures a day to 1,062
destinations in 177 countries, and
offers SkyTeam members 673
lounges in airports worldwide.
SkyTeam
SAFARI NJEMA / 105
✈ Founded in June 2000, SkyTeam is a
major airline alliance that consists of
twenty carriers from five continents.
As smooth as you like!
Make Your
Transfers Seamless
We often talk about getting from ‘‘A” to “B”, but what if your journey
requires a detour? SkyTeam’s network of 1,062 destinations includes
some of the world’s most advanced airport hubs, such as Seoul
Incheon, Amsterdam Schiphol and New York-JFK, offers hundreds
of convenient connections with plenty to do while you wait for your
next flight. And we’re making transfers smoother still.
Thanks to SkyPriority benefits for Elite Plus, First and Business Class passengers,
you can fly even faster through the airport with priority at transfer desks, check in,
boarding and baggage collection across our network, plus Fast Track security and
immigration at many leading airports. Download the free SkyTeam App and you’ll
have a handy Airport Finder and don’t forget to look up some SkyTips to make the
most of your time in between flights.
STRONGER TOGETHER
We also offer six lounges, including our new facility in Beijing and more than 670
others around the world, so you can relax before that next boarding call. And if
something goes wrong, we’re working together with our twenty member airlines to
implement new technology at our largest airports to ensure we get you rebooked
and back on your way, with minimum inconvenience.
Four smart tricks
If you’re connecting on your travels,
here are some suggestions to help
keep your journey hassle-free:
Check through
Depending on your routing,
checking through with your bags to
your end destination means you’ll
have all your boarding passes at the
start of your journey, even if you’re
flying on several SkyTeam airlines.
Don’t be denied
Even if it’s only a short stop
to change planes, use
skyteam.com’s Visa Checker to
see if you require a transit visa –
you might not be allowed to board
without the correct documents.
Carry on if you can
If your luggage is with you,
connecting’s a breeze – especially
if there isn’t much time between
your flights. Just be sure to check
cabin baggage restrictions before
you fly.
Take your time
Factoring in a longer connection
time increases your chances of
making your next flight if you’re
delayed, plus your bags are more
likely to make it too.
~ Follow our tips next time you fly and
you’ll discover how getting there can
be as enjoyable as your destination.
Visit skyteam.com to find out more.

106 / SAFARI NJEMA
Global Network
London
GREAT BRITAIN
THE NETHERLANDS
Amsterdam
Paris
FRANCE
SENEGAL
Dakar
Bamako
Freetown
SIERRA LEONE
Monrovia
LIBERIA
MALI
COTE BENIN Abuja
D'IVOIRE GHANA Lagos
Abidjan Accra
Cotonou
NIGERIA
SUDAN
SAUDI ARABIA
Jeddah
Djibouti
DJIBOUTI
CENTRAL SOUTH SUDAN ETHIOPIA
CAMEROON
AFRICAN REPUBLIC
Juba
Douala
Yaoundé
Bangui
UGANDA KENYA
Entebbe/Kampala Kisumu
Kigali NAIROBI
RWANDA
Brazzaville DEMOCRATIC
Malindi
REPUBLIC OF Bujumbura Kilimanjaro Mombasa
Kinshasa THE CONGO BURUNDI
TANZANIA
Luanda
Khartoum
Addis
Ababa
Dar es Salaam
Moroni/COMOROS
ANGOLA
Lubumbashi
MALAWI
Dzaoudzi/MAYOTTE
Ndola Lilongwe
ZAMBIA
Lusaka
Blantyre
Nampula
Livingstone
Harare
ZIMBABWE
Antananarivo
Dubai
UNITED ARAB EMIRATES
Mahé
SEYCHELLES
Mumbai
INDIA
BOTSWANA
Gaborone
Johannesburg
MOZAMBIQUE
Maputo
MADAGASCAR
SOUTH
AFRICA
Cape Town
Chantal van Wessel

SAFARI NJEMA / 107
Kenya Airways Fleet
Boeing 737-700
Aircraft 2; Seats Economy 100, Premier 16; Crew 7;
Seat pitch Economy 32”, Premier 40”; Max. take-off weight
70,080kg; Fuel capacity 26,020 litres; Range 6,225km;
Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.785;
Thrust per engine at sea level 26,400lbs; Wing span 34.3m;
Length 33.6m; Interior cabin width 3.53m
CHINA
Hanoi
VIETNAM
Bangkok
THAILAND
Guangzhou
Hong Kong
HONG KONG
Boeing 787 Dreamliner
Aircraft 7; Seats Economy 204, Premier 30; Crew 14;
Seat pitch Economy 32”; Premier 75”; Max. take-off weight
227,930kg; Fuel capacity 126,903 litres; Range 14,500km;
Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.85; Thrust per
engine at sea level 69,800lbs; Wing span 60.1m; Length
56.7m; Interior cabin width 5.49m
Boeing 737-800
Aircraft 8; Seats Economy 129, Premier 16; Crew 8;
Seat pitch Economy 32”, Premier 47”; Max. take-off weight
79,015kg; Fuel capacity 26,020 litres; Range 5,665km; Typical
cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.78; Thrust per engine at
sea level 26,400lbs; Wing span 34.3m; Length 39.5m;
Interior cabin width 3.53m
Embraer 190
Aircraft 15; Seats Economy 84, Premier 12; Crew 7;
Seat pitch Economy 31”, Premier 38”; Max. take-off weight
51,800kg; Fuel capacity 16,153 litres; Range 2,935km;
Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.82; Thrust per
engine at sea level 20,000lbs; Wing span 28.72m;
Length 36.24m; Interior cabin width 2.74m

108 / SAFARI NJEMA
Kenya’s Great Rift Valley
spans 8,000 km
and was formed
20 million years ago.
Welcome to Kenya
✈ KQ exceeded three
million passengers in 2011
– and counting!
Practical tips
Juba
What & How
Getting around
On Arrival
TO THE CITY
Jomo Kenyatta International Airport is about a 30-minute drive away
from Nairobi city. Moi International Airport, Mombasa is a 20-minute
drive to Mombasa city. More time is needed during rush hour.
VISA
Most visitors to Kenya require a visa. Multiple and single entry visas are
available. You can apply at any Kenya High Commission or Embassy
prior to travelling. The single entry visa (obtainable upon arrival at the
airport) is US$50 (correct at time of print) or the equivalent in local currency.
You will also require a passport that is valid for three months from
the moment of entry.
Health
Emergency services
Dial 999. Note that
ambulance services are
mostly private. Services
include: St Johns
Ambulance +254 72 161
1555 or Kenya Red
Cross Ambulance
+254 71 771 4938.
Hospitals
Nairobi and Mombasa
have good hospitals.
Medical expenses
Make sure you have
adequate travel health
insurance and accessible
funds to cover the cost of
any medical treatment.
Consultations and
treatments will have to
be paid for at the time,
and the costs claimed
back later.
General
Voltage
240 volts AC, using
three-square-pin,
13-amp-type plugs.
Security
It is advisable not to walk
alone in isolated areas
in towns or on beaches,
particularly after dark.
Tipping
Tips are appreciated. Most
hotels/restaurants add a
10 percent service charge.
Water
It is wise to drink or use
only boiled or bottled water,
and to avoid ice in drinks.
Self-drive
Traffic adheres to the lefthand
side of the road, and
most cars are right-hand
drive. A current driving
licence with photograph is
accepted for up to a threemonth
stay.
Public transport
Nairobi is the only city with
an effective municipal bus
service. Local (private)
matatus are the main
means of getting around,
and most cities and towns
have plenty of services.
Photography
Taking photographs of
official buildings, including
embassies, can lead to
detention. Photography is
also prohibited at airports.
Embassies & consulates
All embassies are
located in Nairobi.
ID
You must carry a valid form
of ID with you at all times.
Post office
Open 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.,
Mondays to Fridays; and 9
a.m. to 12 noon Saturdays.
Telephone/internet
Phone cards may be
bought from post offices
or international call Masaka
offices. Emails can be sent
from most hotels.
Money matters
Currency
Kenyan shilling (KES)
Currency regulations
There are no restrictions on
the movement of currency
into or out of Kenya for
currency transactions.
Banking
Banks are generally open
from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.,
Mondays to Fridays;
and 9 a.m. to 12 noon
Saturdays. Banks in
coastal towns open
and close half an hour
earlier. Most ATMs accept
international VISA cards.
Credit cards
Visa and MasterCard are
widely accepted.
Hotel bill payment
Pay in Kenyan shillings or
convertible currency.
Most hotels also accept
credit cards.
Bukoba
Gulu
Getty Images

SAFARI NJEMA / 109
SOUTH-
SUDAN
ETHIOPIA
Lokichokio
Muruasigar
2149 m
Songot 1755 m
Central
Island
National
Park
Namoratunga
Stones
Lodwar
LAKE
TURKANA
Sibiloi
National
Park
CHALBI DESERT
Moyale
Malka Mari
National
Reserve
LAKE
VICTORIA
Chantal van Wessel
UGANDA
Nasolot
National
Reserve
TANZANIA
South
Turkana
National
Reserve
Masai Mara
National Reserve
South
Island
National
Park
RIFT VALLEY
Nairobi
National
Park
LAKE
MAGADI
Shompole
Conservancy
Loiyangalani
Mt Kulal 2285 m
Marsabit
National
Reserve
Losai
National
Reserve
Marsabit
Marsabit
National
Park
Maralal
Saiwa
National Matthew’s Peak
Swamp
Sanctuary 2375 m
Mt Elgon
National
National Park
Kaisungua
Maralal
Reserve
Kitale
3167 m
Samburu
National
Mt Elgon
Kerio Valley
Reserve
Shaba National
4322 m
National Reserve
Reserve
ELDORET
Archer’s Post
LAKE BARINGA
Kakamega
Buffalo Springs
Forest Reserve
Lake Bogoria Isiolo
National
Meru
Reserve
Kakamega
National Reserve
National
Park
Ndere Island
Nanyuki
National Park
KISUMU
Meru
Mt Londiani
Rusinga Island
Kericho
3000 m
North
Nakuru
Mt Kenya Kitu
Lake Nakuru
5199 m
National
Mfangango
National
Park
Nyerri Embu
Reserve
Island
Kisii
Muranga’a Mwea
Ruma
Hell’s Gate
National
National
National Park
Mt Longonot 2777 m Reserve
Park
RIFT VALLEY
Longonot National Park
Thika
Migori
Narok
NAIROBI
Oi Donyo National Park
OFFICES & AGENTS
Head Office Airport North Road, Embakasi
P.O. Box: 19002 – 00501 Nairobi, Kenya, Tel +254 (0)20 6422000,
Safaricom +254 0711 02 2000, Airtel +254 0734 10 2000
Contact Centre (24 hours) Tel +254 (0)20 3274747
Safaricom +254 0711 02 4747, Airtel +254 0734 10 4747
Email: customer.relations@kenya-airways.com
JKIA Sales Office Terminal 1C – International Departures
Tel +254 (0)20 6423506/8,
Terminal 1D – Domestic Departures Tel +254 (0)20 6423570
Baggage Services Tel +254 0737 33 3954
Email: delayedbaggage.nbo@kenya-airways.com
KENYA
Voi
Kora
National
Park
Kajiado
West
Chyulu Game
Conservation
Area
Amboseli
National Park
Tsavo
East
National
Tsavo West
Park
National
Park
Mt Kilimanjaro 5895 m
Rahole
National
Reserve
Mwaluganje
Elephant
Sanctuary
Shimba Hills
National
Reserve
Garissa
MOMBASA
Wajir
Tana River
Primate National
Reserve
Arabuko
Malindi Marine
Sokoke
National Park
National
Park
MALINDI
Watamu Marine
National Park
Kilifi
Diani
Kisite Marine National Park
Kisite Marine National Park
Boni
National
Arawale Reserve
National
Reserve
Dodori
National
Reserve
SOMALIA
INDIAN
OCEAN
100 km

APOLLO 14 astronaut
Alan Bartlett Shepard Jr.
famously played golf
on the moon during the
1971 mission.
Magical Kenya
SAFARI NJEMA / 111
✈ Fly to Nairobi with KQ to combine
wildlife and golf in an unforgettable
golf safari. Read all about it in the next
issue of Msafiri.
Golf holidays
Join the Club
There’s so much more to Kenya
than wildlife and pristine beaches.
Today its world-class golf greens
are a big draw in their own right,
with professionals and amateurs
alike teeing up for the ultimate
hole-in-one.
Looking for an exotic golf destination
this year? Considered playing in Kenya?
Kenya has more than 40 golf courses
and the majority of these are located in
Nairobi. At 1,700 metres above sea level,
the weather is cool all year round, just
what the golfing gods ordered. Along the
coast, the weather is typically more humid
and hotter, but still great for golf. The
coast is home to three championship
courses and two other great valuefor-money
nine-hole courses including
Vipingo Ridge, the only golf course in
Africa with the PGA Course status.
ABOVE PAR
Weekday tee times are available
throughout the year and green fees
are about US$42 to US$65 per round.
With more than ten championship
standard golf courses in and around
Nairobi, visitors are spoiled for
choice. Golf caddies are knowledgeable
and speak English as a first or
second language. Expect to pay
about US$11 per round.
The Kenya Open, part of the European
Challenge Tour, has been staged in
Kenya since 1961. This annual event
brings together 100 European golf
professionals, 30 local and regional
professionals, and a mix of international
players from South Africa, Asia and the
Americas. Muthaiga Golf Course is
hosting this year’s edition, the Barclay’s
Kenya Open, from 23 to 26 March.
Players and fans can go on to enjoy the
country’s many other highlights in and
around Nairobi.

SAFARI NJEMA / 113
Cargo
From Kenya, with love
A Rose is a Rose...
Getty Images
A symbol for love and eternal
beauty, the rose is arguably one
of the world’s most iconic flowers.
And if you were lucky enough
to be gifted a bouquet this
Valentine’s Day, it’s very likely
it began its journey in Kenya.
It is with great pride that Kenya is the
world’s third largest exporter of cut
flowers. The Eastern African nation is also
Europe’s biggest supplier of roses, with
most of the sustainably grown blooms
making their way to the Netherlands,
Britain and Germany. So how do
they get there? On board a KQ flight,
of course.
As a result of the booming rose
sector – the country’s second largest
agricultural export behind tea – KQ
Cargo has established a cool chain
infrastructure to ensure fresh delivery
of its prized roses. With a dedicated
terminal at Nairobi airport for the transport
of flowers (and vegetables), Kenya
is a hub of flower-exporting activity.
Roses by numbers
120,000 tonnes of flowers are
exported by Kenya every year.
500,000 jobs are provided by the
Kenyan flower sector.
63 billion Kenya shillings
(US$616m) is the estimated worth
of Kenya’s floriculture trade.

114 / SAFARI NJEMA
KQ won the Best
Business Class in
Africa for four years
in a row from World
Travel Awards.
Get Comfortable
✈ KQ received an International
Safety Award in 2014 from the
British Safety Council.
What you need to know
Flight Mode
Safety
Please watch the safety demonstration before
take-off and refer to the leaflet in your seat
pocket. Smoking is prohibited on all flights.
Electronic devices including laptops, tablets
and mobile phones may not be used during
take-off and landing.
Hand luggage
Place hand luggage in the overhead storage
or beneath the seat in front of you. Cabin crew
will remove hand luggage from passengers
seated in exit rows for take-off and landing.
1 Get a good night’s sleep, eat a light
meal and take some gentle exercise
before your flight.
Travel
On The Move
Six top tips for a healthy and comfortable journey
2 Wear comfortable clothing and shoes.
3 Keep your circulation going by standing
up and walking in the aisle when
possible. Flex muscles in your feet, arms,
shoulders and neck.
4 Low cabin humidity on longer
journeys can cause dry eyes, nose and
throat. Remove contact lenses and apply
Quote
moisturiser and lip balm. Avoid salt,
drink plenty of water and moderate
your intake of alcohol, tea and coffee.
“Whatever you are looking
for is also looking for you”
– Sahndra Fon Dufe –
Cameroon-born actress and author
5 When travelling across time zones
your body’s sleep rhythms can become
disrupted, leading to insomnia, loss of
appetite and fatigue. Try to give yourself
some time to adjust to new night and
day cycles when you arrive.
6 On arrival spend as much time as
possible outside. Sunlight helps your
body to adjust to a new time zone.
Seat adjustments
Ensure your seat is upright for take-off and
landing.
Infants
Baby-changing tables can be found in
selected toilets. The crew will help prepare
baby food. Cots are available on some flights.
Inflight service
A hot meal is normally served during longhaul
flights. Special-diet or vegetarian meals
are available when pre-ordered. There is a
courtesy inflight bar service for wine, beer,
spirits and soft drinks.
Entertainment
Seat-back entertainment featuring a range of
movies and music is available on our long- and
medium-haul flights. Please refer to the IFE
guide in Msafiri.
Take-off
The aircraft climbs steeply immediately after
take-off. Shortly afterwards you will hear
a reduction in the engine sound, while the
aircraft continues to climb. All aircraft cabins
are pressurised. Due to a change in pressure
during take-off and landing, some passengers
may experience slight discomfort in their ears.
Relieve this by swallowing, yawning or pinching
the nostrils gently, while keeping lips sealed.
Landing
After touchdown you may hear an increase in
engine noise due to the reverse thrust applied
to assist braking. Remain seated until the
engines are off and the doors are open.