ADLER Magazine 2017

In 2007, the Sanoner family was
centuries, and Alessandro Fonseca
offered a small piece of land above the
has devoted himself to biodynamic
ADLER Thermae hotel. Three hectares
cultivation*. He believes that ‘[w]hen
were suitable for agriculture and the
water, light, wind and soil are in perfect
remainder was woodland. ‘When we
balance, the vines and olive trees will
were thinking about what we could
find their own equilibrium. This is why
do with it’, explains Andreas Sanoner,
we should be extremely restrained
‘we said: Why don’t we make wine?’
in the work that we do’. It is therefore
Introducing agricultural operations to
fitting that Tenuta Sanoner’s external
supplement the hotel business seemed
oenologist, Matteo Giustiniani, also
an obvious approach.
works for two world-famous Tuscan
Barbara Coppi
wineries that employ organic and
The first vines were planted in 2009. But
biodynamic cultivation techniques.
just a few months later disappointment
Biodynamic cultivation adheres to
set in.
the guiding principle of minimising
The majority of the young plants had
interventions in natural growth
died, and the soil had dried up as a
processes. ‘We are aware’, says
*The anthroposophy based on the
result of unskilled preparation. The
Andreas Sanoner, ‘that we are just a
world view of philosopher Rudolf
realisation dawned that passion alone
small link in nature’s cycles’. It was a
Steiner (1861–1925) provides the
was not enough. Knowledge, experience
legendary saying by Native American
foundation for biodynamic cultivation.
and dedication were lacking. This
Chief Seattle, which he discovered
Here, agricultural holdings are seen as
approach was never going to yield a
whilst visiting a mystical site in Sedona
individual organisms that have their
quality product. So should we give
in the US state of Arizona, that inspired
Giuseppe Basta on a tour learns how
yet she felt from the very beginning
own characteristics.
up? Finish the experiment and turn
this realisation.
a sophisticated system is used to
that she was in the right place: ‘I
This is why all use of raw materials and
the land into a pretty meadow? Quite
regulate room temperature and air
was immediately impressed by the
resources that do not also originate
from biodynamic enterprises is greatly
restricted, and the ‘cosmic rhythms’ of
the moon and planets are likewise taken
into account.
the contrary. In the words of Andreas
Sanoner: ‘Sooner or later we all harbour
an ambition that drives us, which is
perhaps a blessing or a curse’.
Anyone who visits Tenuta Sanoner
today enters a highly professional
operation. The cellars are managed by
‘Humankind has not woven
the web of life. We are but one
thread within it. Whatever we
do to the web, we do to ourselves.
All things are bound
together’.
humidity — in each room, individually.
A ventilation system prevents mould
from forming and also extracts carbon
dioxide. Even temperatures in the
concrete and stainless steel vats
can be altered to ensure consistent
fermentation.
Sanoner family philosophy’. Embracing
it posed no problem at all. In her own
words, Coppi believes that ‘[m]any
new paths and opportunities open up
for those who approach things with
enthusiasm’.
Now, Barbara Coppi is a qualified
Aetos Sangiovese
Orcia Doc
A red wine comprising 100% Sangiovese
grapes, sustainably produced
entirely in our own winery using
Giuseppe Basta, a man 26 years young
Each aspect of processing follows a
sommelier, having achieved the
certified organic methods. Its refined
who was born and raised in the heart of
The aim of the Tenuta Sanoner winery
dedicated flow system, meaning wines
highest level of training within just
quality and elegance reveal the typical
Tuscany and attended the agricultural
is to produce wines that bear within
are developed in a set of steps that
a few months. At the same time,
character of this region in the heart of
college there. Basta did not have to
them the typical characteristics of the
are logically arranged within the cellar.
she also completed all the training
Tuscany.
look very far to find a professional role
landscape, its soil and its climate.
The clarity afforded by this approach
needed to deal with the many and
The grapes are harvested and sorted
model, since his father is working for
For years, numerous clones of the
is also very helpful for visitors. By the
varied bureaucratic challenges that
by hand, then tipped, in as whole a
30 years for one of the leading Brunello
Sangiovese grape have been planted in
time they are greeted by Barbara Coppi
go hand in hand with her job. After all,
state as possible, into special French
producers. Even in childhood, the wine
a variety of locations. The quality and
for a wine tasting in the visitor area,
she is responsible for tours, tastings,
cement vats for fermentation. Once
cellar was ‘a magical place’ for Basta,
yield are subject to regular analysis.
they have a clear understanding of how
cookery courses and sales as well
malolactic fermentation is complete,
enchanting him with the ‘aromas,
How they are cultivated determines
everything works. Any anyone who
as for accounting and ensuring that
the wine is then aged for a minimum
colours and continuous transformations
the results that are achieved. For
hasn’t yet succumbed to the fascination
the winery complies with all legal
of 12 months in barriques, tonneaux
of the wine’.
this reason, just a few years ago we
of Tenuta Sanoner will do so when they
stipulations. Andreas Sanoner says
and larger oak barrels with a capacity
succeeded in producing outstanding
meet Ms Coppi.
that ‘when it comes to wine, we men
of 10/15 hectolitres.
Giuseppe Basta
Supporting Basta in his work is
agronomist Alessandro Fonseca, who
wines, including the Aetos Sangiovese
DOC, aged in oak barrels, the Aetos
She is a small and vivacious person
whose cheerfulness is infectious.
like to dream, but Barbara always
brings us back down to earth’. That is
was already well known by the Sanoner
Rosé and the Aetos Sparkling Rosé.
When she came to Tenuta Sanoner in
a good thing. Nevertheless, in a place
family through mutual friends. The
The technical equipment in the cellar
2008, she ‘didn’t know anything about
as fascinating as Tenuta Sanoner,
All products can be found at
Fonsecas have produced outstanding
has a major impact on the quality
wine’. She had previously worked in
dreaming is definitely allowed.
www.tenuta-sanoner.it
agronomists and oenologists for
of the Aetos wines. Anyone joining
fashion, selling shoes and clothing. And
08 ADLER [The jewel in the vineyard] [The jewel in the vineyard] ADLER 09