Floor Sanding - DIY Guides & Tips Included

FLOOR
SANDING
DIY GUIDES

G U I D E
Sanding
Like a Pro
in 5 steps
1st
Preparation
Knowing the essentials of the floor sanding
process will help you to reduce some of the
risks and achieve better results.You will
need to hire an equipment for this task as
well as some other products. The checklist
will make the whole process easier for you,
bear in mind that the efficiency and the
quality of the job depend on how advanced
is the machine you hire. You will need to hire
an equipment for this task as well as some other products. Our checklist will make
the whole process easier for you, bear in mind that the efficiency and the quality of
the job depend on how advanced is the machine you hire. The belt sander will do the
hard job, with the edger you will be able to strip off the old finish from around the
corners. The buffer will be needed to smooth out the surface before applying the
finish. The frequently used sandpaper grits are 24 - 40 - 60 - 80 / 100. Don't forget
about the safety measures, the process might be very noisy so you will need ear
plugs. Even with equipment that is dust-free there are still some small dust particles
so a respiratory mask is recommended.

G U I D E
2nd
Inspect The Area
Check if the plank's width allows it to be sanded one more
time. Each sanding takes up to 1 mm of timber. Standard solid
wood which is 18 mm thick can be sanded average 6 times - we
don't recommend to go further. For example, the laminate
planks are not made from real wood, which is why if you try
to sand them you will destroy the flooring.
The engineered wood planks have only a thick top layer of
real wood that can be sanded. This means they can be
refinished between 2 and 3 times during their lifespan.
Another aspect of the inspection part, is that that you will be able to check the condition of the subfloor which is
really important. If you are living in a house with wooden joists, now is the perfect time to check them. This is the
best moment to decide where your renovation work is headed. If there are problems underneath, it's best to take
the appropriate measures on time. Neglecting such issues might cost you a lot more in the future, as it is possible
to affect the sturdiness of the construction.
3rd
Clean From Dirt/Dust
The area has to be wiped and vacuumed good, before starting with the
real job. Removing the furniture from the room will make the process
easier. If there is any heavy furniture you can't remove, our advice is to
secure them with dustsheets. Even if you use dust extractor with your
belt sander, there are small particles in the air that will settle down. In
fact it's good to remove anything that may easily collects dust, e.g.
books, curtains etc. As we said the whole process is really noisy, so if you
want to avoid problems with your neighbors we advice you to warn them
about the on-going renovation project in your home.

4th
The Sanding Process
1st Row - start with the lowest grit - 24, if
the floor is in better condition you can start
from 40. This will remove the dirt and the
old finish. Vacuum the floor in between
each grit change.
2nd Row - The grit goes 20+ (60 if you have started
with 40) but you have to be sure you have passed
everywhere with the lower grit first. The second
course will remove the marks from the rough
sanding.
3rd Row - Here you go with finer grit that remove even the smaller imperfections
from the surface.
4th Buffing - this process will smooth out the surface and prepare it for the finish.
The wood pores will be open so they will soak better the finish.
Do the sanding on the forward stroke and never backwards.
It should be done in line with the wood grain.
Do it from left to right.
Don't linger too long in same area and don't press down the machine.

G U I D E
5th
Sealing with Finish
The finish application is actually a simple process - just avoid overlapping (it will leave marks). The risk here is if you
The finish application is actually a simple process - just avoid overlapping (it will leave marks). The risk here is if
choose a bad product - it will ruin the appearance of your flooring and your efforts will be in vain. There is a lot to
you choose a bad product - it will ruin the appearance of your flooring and your efforts will be in vain. There is a lot
know about the finishes - the facts will make a huge difference. In general, you will have to choose between few main
to know about the finishes - the facts will make a huge difference. In general you will have to choose between
categories of products - lacquers, oils and hardwax-oils. Another thing you will have to decide is what sheen do you
lacquers and oils. Make sure you follow the manufacturer guides.
want for your finish - matt, satin or gloss (their appearance vary on the different products). The choice between
lacquer and oils depends completely on your preference - the lacquers create a protective film covering the surface of
the wood. They might be solvent and water-based, the second option is what we recommend you - it has low drying
time and low VOCs, most of these products are non-yellowing with the time. On the other hand, the oils will
emphasise the natural look of the wood because they soak in it. When the moment for refinishing comes to the
different products require different approach, the oils should be reapplied every few months (if there are no other
surface imperfections). If the floor is damaged you will have to sand it and then apply the finish again. If you have to
refinish with lacquer, before applying new coats, you have to make sure there are no marks left from the previous
finish . Make sure you follow the manufacturer guides.
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