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KASHMIR VALLEYS 3<br />

unfriendly adjectives huried at Koehwan, Babu, the<br />

rain, things in general, and the third passenger got in<br />

beside me. Blessed man, he had a rug and no pets,<br />

so the former was shared, bundles adjusted, ponies<br />

violently castigated, and after fierce jerks and many<br />

efforts we were actually off moving through space<br />

apparently, for the darkness was so great not the<br />

slightest outline of passing objects could be seen.<br />

The road was encumbered with many country carts<br />

and flocks ; so I gathered from the hoarse shoutings and<br />

sleepy answers that arrived through the outside gloom,<br />

usually preceding much jolting and banging, in the<br />

course of which I and my partner nearly succeeded in<br />

changing places like tennis balls. We slept uneasily<br />

at intervals, with a strange impression of being the<br />

victims of gnomes who hustled and bullied their prey,<br />

as with wheels lifted high over casual boulders, or<br />

dragged through rocky "nullahs," we received the<br />

elbows of our neighbours in our side, or were hurtled by<br />

moving baggage.<br />

Crash! this time something really had happened,<br />

shoutings rent the darkness, and cracks and the<br />

snappings of shafts could be heard. We were soon wide<br />

awake, and taking part in the general difference of<br />

opinion that seemed to prevail. Fortunately we were<br />

only spectators of the smash. The tonga carrying<br />

the mails had attempted to pass between the culvert<br />

of a bridge and a country cart, with the result that<br />

when we appeared, having in the general obscurity<br />

driven into the debris, the bridge was carpeted with<br />

mail bags, two " ekkas " were lying in drunken fashion<br />

prone on the ground, and darkness itself was riven by<br />

the remarks of the principals, to which the mutterings

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