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KASHMIR VALLEYS 5<br />

voluminous comforters, and a big fire blazing in the<br />

" guest room " of the hotel was hailed with joy.<br />

We could not stay round it for long, and by ten I<br />

had started on the second stage of my long drive in a<br />

tonga of exactly the same build as the one in which I<br />

had ascended to Muixee. Slung on two wheels, it was<br />

in shape something like a low pony cart, the two seats<br />

placed back to back, a canopy over it protecting us<br />

partially from rain and sun. The ponies were harnessed<br />

Tonga<br />

one between the shafts, the other giving " outside help,"<br />

and running quite independently save for one strap.<br />

The system sounds impossible, but in practice worked<br />

fairly well,<br />

the wickeder animal having free scope for<br />

his sins, the milder keeping the vehicle straight on its<br />

path, assisted by the forward jerks of its companion.<br />

The road was very steep and slippery, and we proceeded<br />

at a pace distinctly to be marked "prestissimo."<br />

Suddenly the rain clouds broke and emptied themselves,<br />

and it was as if the heavens were descending in sheets

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