DENIM PORTFOLIO

T 

R 

C

“I want to die with my blue jeans on” 

ANDY WARHOL

Ruhi Tamer Cogal is a Turkish fashion designer, borned in 26.07.1981, Mersin/Turkey. The Turkish born young designer 

initially studied law in Ankara, Turkey where he graduated with a high level of degree. Although he graduated from 

Ankara University with a Bachelors degree in Law, and worked as a sales & marketing consultant for P&G he couldn’t 

give up his passion and profound interests in clothing. So he decided to change his career and he completed one year 

of intensive undergraduate programs in fashion design at Istituto Marangoni between 2010-2011. His year Milan, arguably 

the fashion capital of the world, highly influenced his career and he gained extraordinary knowledge and creative 

experiences. On the other side, his practice as a lawyer has greatly contributed to the development of professional 

skills and an acute sense of business accumen, particularly while working with clothing companies; meeting a tight 

deadline, organizing daily work in an intense, fast-paced environment, following up on clients’ wishes and using strong 

communication skills to get a job done. He is uniquely equipped to see both sides of the industry - the creative side 

and the business side. 

From 2011 to 2013, he worked as a menswear designer at Turkish menswear brand TWEEN, where he gained valuable 

experiences working with creative directors such as Pierangelo d’Agostin and Bahar Korcan, hand-drawing design, 

digital illustrations, research and studies of both natural and technological material (fabrics and yarns), research and 

development of color cards, following every step of the production process including concept design ideas, prototype 

development, fitting, sampling, creating functional products in line with commercial merchandising and communication. 

In February 2013, he earned the second place prize in a design competition organized by Eagen Exporters Association 

and sponsored by Vogue Turkey. He won a scholarship from the Turkish Ministry of Economy, which led him to enroll 

for the master degree in Istituto Marangoni Milano starting October 1, 2013 where he will fulfilled his ambition by 

specialising further in menswear design and accessory design. 

In 2014 he completed his first master, which is Menswear Master with a Laudi degree and has been one of the finalist 

for Ermenegildo Zegna internship opportunity. At the same time he won the first prize in the Denim Competition 

organised by ISKO. 

In 2015 he completed the second master degree in Accessory and Luxury Design field at Istituto Marangoni and started 

to work as a professional again in Accessory Design field with Diego Dolcini specializing on shoes and bags. At the 

same time he did collaborations with China for Trend Analyses and he worked as a denim consultant for two different 

brands. 

In 2016 he had the opportunity to present his FW 2017/2018 Collection in Excelcior Hotel Gallia in Milan during the 

Republic Day of Turkey by the organization of Turkish Consulate of Milan.

MY 

NAME 

IS 

: 

JEANS

My name is Jeans is a forever life friend who is going to share a life with you. He is the reflection of urban 

men’s identity showing how it could be basic but charming, chic but comfortable. 

My name is Jeans is about an emotional experience and a transiting search relevant to what men need today. 

HE is loyal, he is strong and he is as alive as you. 

Get ready to meet with your best friend.

i am stylish 

i am immortal 

i am CONSTRUCTED

MARLON

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I’m loyal.. 

we will share every single moment of life together 

i’m not gonna leave you unless you leave me 

I’m strong... 

don’t limit yourself when we are together 

we can conquer the world 

: : 

I’m alive... 

I’m just like you. as the time passes we are gonna get older 

we will get mature, we will have wrinkles 

but remember we will be more handsome 

MY 

NAME 

IS 

: 

JEANS

I ‘M YOUR NEW JEANS 


VOL.1 


I ‘M YOUR OLD JEANS 

VOL.1 


I ‘M YOUR OLD JEANS

“I have often said that I wish I had invented blue jeans: the most spectacular, the most practical, the most 

relaxed and nonchalant. They have expression, modesty, sex appeal, simplicity - all I hope for in my clothes.” 

YVES SAINT-LAURENT

Getting lost in the unlimited world of freedom... Borderless seas, unreachable horizons and a lonely fisherman. 

This collection is the reflection of dressing out without borders. Mix & Play as the way you want. 

The main inspiration is the vintage fabric effects on the denim mixed together with the feeling of a patchwork 

supperted by modern details like many different kind of stitchings, contrast colours and 3D emboss prints. 

A relaxed look is created by boxy silhouettes. In order to give the vintage feeling and a fisherman style many 

different kind of effects and washings are used. The colour palette is inspired by the nature. Shades of blue, 

gray and beige are highly used and supported by strong colours such as yellow, green and sax in details. 

Here is the reflection of a free soul, a strong personality & masculanity.... ‘The Lost Fisherman”

FABRIC 

Page 1 of 4 

SELVEDGE 

TECHNICAL BULLETIN 

T-240 

Denim – How to Sew X-Heavy Thread Sizes 

Pantone 18 - 1763 TPX 

Retail designers are always looking for a way to make their products unique and this 

definitely applies to sewing denim garments. From a thread perspective, this can 

include: 

• Using contrast color threads 

o For all topstitching operations 

o For different operations 

o For different needles of the same operation 

• Using threads that will maintain their color regardless of the wash process. 

o Using a 100% polyester thread dyed with disperse dyes 

• Using threads that will wash-down depending on the severity of the finishing 

process. 

o Using a cotton wrapped core thread 

o Using an true indigo dyed cotton wrapped core thread 

• Using a thread that looks different that regular stitching thread. 

o Shiny thread like Signature Plus ® or J Metallic ® 

o Two-color thread like Design-A-Core ® 

• Using different thread sizes that give a bolder stitch appearance. 

LARGER THREAD SIZES THAT GIVE A BOLDER TOPSTITCH APPEARANCE 

T-300 T-240 T-180 T-150 

T-135 T-105 T-105 T-80 T-60 T-40 

The selvedge is white. We can do chain stitching 

in green (P 15-5534TPX) 

Tex Size = Gram Weight Per 1000 meters of undyed yarn. See the World Wide Size Comparison Chart for yarn size conversion. 

Years ago the most common size of thread used for topstitching denim was a Tex 60 or 

80 or possibly Tex 105 size threads. 

T-300 


T-150 



T-240 


T-300 


INTERIOR - POCKET LINING 

4 cm 

7 cm 

15.5 cm 

15.5 cm 



Anchor design embossed by silicon 

as also shown by Quake company 

Inside printed in red 

Outside printed with the stripes 

WASH 

1.5cm 

Wash could be as shown in photo 

Less whiteness effect 

Destroyed parts same color with the stripes 

6 cm 

18 cm 

32 cm 

4 cm 

0.2cm 

Distance between stripes is 1.5 cm 

Each stripes is 0.2 cm 

Strtipes has to be as shown in the photo 

Dirty effect only around buttons and rivets 

If possible i would like stripe prints in 3-D 

effect as shown on the photo 

(serigraphic print) 

This effect only on the waistband & pocket 

edges 

Another washing example 

Color after the wash can be same as the Isko 

30475 

Waist band : 4 cm 

Crotch : 32 cm (excluding waist band) 

Side pockets : Length : 18 cm 

Distance from side cut : 6 cm 

Cuffs : 18 cm 

This pant has a relax cut with low crotch 

level 

It has a little touch of carrot cut 

headquarters corso matteotti 8 · 20121 milano · Italy · t +39.02.76.00.47.07 · f +39.02.76.00.70.89 · www.istitutomarangoni.com · marketing@istitutomarangoni.com 

©istitutomarangoni 2013 Tutti i diritti di proprietà intellettuale e industriale a tutela di questo documento e degli elementi in esso riprodotti, ivi inclusi tutti i segni distintivi, sono di titolarità esclusiva per l’Italia e 

per l’estero di istitutomarangoni, con sede in Milano (Italia), in forza delle leggi e delle convenzioni internazionali in materia di diritto d’autore, disegni e modelli e marchi. 

for client RUHI abcdefghijkl TAMER COGAL mnopqrs tuvwxyz 

TRIMMING CHART/DETAILS 01 

project ISKO abcd 2014 1234567890 

- AUTHENTIC - LOST FISHERMAN 

date 23.01.2014 dd/mm/yyyy

The word “tween” is an abbreviation of the preposition “between”, combining some of the traditional values 

and the innovative techniques of urban men’s identity showing how it is going to change by. 

TWEEN is about an emotional experience and a 

transiting search relevant to what men need today.contemporary attitudes, and actively seeks ways to make 

itself geographic features, the 

TWEEN concept evolves adapting to Taking some inspirations from Turkey’s cultural heritage and unique 

between East and West, which brings forth Tween’s new concept.This archaic meaning reminds of Turkey’s 

unique position recorded from c.1300 in the history of the English language.

TWEEN 

TASARIM : TAMER 

STIL NO : TJIN-18 

KALIP : DENİM 

ÜRETİCİ : TUMAN 

KUMAŞ/İPLİK FİRMASI : BOSSA/SAYA 

KUMAŞ/İPLİK : INDIGO TWILL 

TARİH: 02.2013

Tamer 

DENIM-01 

TEKNİK FÖY 

Kumas: Yanki Tekstil - Tokyo %100 Pamuk - 13.40 Oz - 153cm 

Garni Kumas: Denime esdeger agirlikta camel koton kumas 

X05YK300004 

15.11.2012 

AW 2013-14 

TWEEN 

Garni Kumas 

Garni Kumas 

Metal rivet 

Cakma 

Tum dikisler 

ekru renk olacaktir 

Fermuar 

Garni Kumas 

Tween 

pul etiket 

Tween 

pul etiket 

ZEMİN 

1.VARYANT 

2.VARYANT 

1.RENK 

Agir yikama yapilmalidir. 

Esas alinan ve Yanki tekstil’e ait olan orjinal numuneden 

daha dogal bir goruntu saglanmalidir. 

Daha az kimyasal kullanilmalidir.

R+T+C

Urban macho, a term coined by Turkish social lifestyle, signifies the intense way of expressing attitudes and 

feelings. It portrays a highly overstated and agonizing depiction of love and yearning, along with unrequited 

love, grief and pain. 

In AW 2017/2018 collection, that’s exactly what the designer aim to point out. Transcending the borders of 

fashion and expressing our own attitude with the combination of different fabrics, colors and prints. In each 

and every garment, it’s possible to feel an influence from different cultures such as Arabia, Byzantine, Balkans 

and Middle East all blended with Turkish culture. 

The collection provides a comfort look silhouette. Easy-fit comfort harem inspired trousers and shorts with 

generous volumes of pleats; sculptural look slim-fit shirts and t-shirts; fitted blazers and vests with functional 

constructions and hand-made fine yarn knits are the main pieces of the collection. Leather is the complementary 

accent statement of the collection. Leather jackets and blazers, shoes and bags are neatly inter-mixed to 

express the masculine soul. 

An array of various kinds of fabrics are used with a huge color palette. High tech polyesters and nylons, Turkish 

organic cottons and cotton-wool blends, and jerseys are used in combination with each other. Tones of soil 

colour, shades of green and yellow are strongly used in addition to the natural tones of beige,gray, brown and 

white. The overall palette is supported by the strong sences of purple. Anatolia inspired graphical elements 

that characterize extremely bright and colours are represented with current and characterize in an unmistakable 

way of all proposal. The desire to develop a way of dressing “create your own mood” is the guideline 

chosen to give a strong personality to all garments. 

It’s a pleasure to present to you the AW 2017/2018 collection, “Urban Macho,” the blend of modernity with 

ethnicity, cultures and feelings.

“Nothing could be timeless except a pair of denim pants.” That’s wh

These 70 pages is the a short summary of 20 years of passion 

and 5 years of hard work. 

I gave up my career as a Lawyer to become a designer. The reason is I followed my insticts and 

my passions. 

Now I am in front of you to share my will, my determination and my passion. 

I believe on you as a next and very important step to give all my effort. 

If you also believe me it’s the time to say “Let’s Start” 

y I want to be a denim designer. To be timeless....

T 

R 

C 

tamercogal@gmail.com

DENIM PORTFOLIO

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