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BAYWATCH<br />

AY<br />

CAPTION<br />

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MAY 30<br />

It might not be able to top the real-life<br />

drama coming out of DC, but with<br />

the slogan “We make the terror,” the<br />

fifth season of House of Cards, available<br />

today on Netflix, seems inclined to try.<br />

MAY 3<br />

Short-listed for the<br />

Turner Prize in 2013,<br />

Ghanaian British painter<br />

Lynette Yiadom-Boakye,<br />

who’s earned acclaim for<br />

her gestural, luminous<br />

portraits, has her first<br />

solo show at NYC’s<br />

New Museum.<br />

MAY 12<br />

Filmed in the highoctane,<br />

tongue-in-cheek<br />

style of director Guy<br />

Ritchie, King Arthur:<br />

YIADOM-BOAKYE’S<br />

DAYDREAMING OF<br />

DEVILS, 2016<br />

Legend of the Sword,<br />

which stars Jude Law,<br />

Charlie Hunnam, Djimon<br />

Hounsou, and Astrid<br />

Bergès-Frisbey, retells<br />

the classic folktale.<br />

MAY 12<br />

Transparent showrunner<br />

Jill Soloway transforms<br />

the feminist, cult-favorite<br />

novel I Love Dick into an<br />

Amazon series starring<br />

Kathryn Hahn and Griffin<br />

Dunne as a married<br />

couple who become<br />

obsessed with a charismatic<br />

professor played<br />

by Kevin Bacon.<br />

MAY 21<br />

When Twin Peaks<br />

debuted in 1990, the<br />

twisty-turny thriller was<br />

so ahead of its time, it<br />

lasted only two seasons.<br />

HOUSE<br />

OF CARDS<br />

Now the series returns,<br />

with cocreator David<br />

Lynch directing a slew<br />

of new faces (from<br />

Eddie Vedder to<br />

Naomi Watts)<br />

and many<br />

originals (Kyle<br />

MacLachlan,<br />

David Duchovny,<br />

and even the<br />

Log Lady!).<br />

MAY 26<br />

Starring Dwayne<br />

Johnson, Zac Efron,<br />

Alexandra Daddario,<br />

and Priyanka Chopra,<br />

Baywatch, a movie based<br />

on the long-running (get<br />

it?) TV series, has all the<br />

requisite red, high-cut<br />

BACON<br />

AND HAHN<br />

tank suits, chiseled abs,<br />

slo-mo shots, and bad<br />

guys, but with a new<br />

(very welcome) willingness<br />

to poke<br />

fun at itself.<br />

MAY 30<br />

In Theft by<br />

Finding: Diaries<br />

(1977–2002),<br />

author David Sedaris<br />

reveals not so much the<br />

vagaries of his inner<br />

emotions as the specifics<br />

of his actual life, and<br />

proves himself (once<br />

again) to be one of the<br />

most observant, wryest,<br />

and funniest writers alive.<br />

MAY 31<br />

Premiering on Netflix:<br />

I Am Jane Doe, a searing<br />

documentary narrated<br />

by Jessica Chastain<br />

about sex traffcking in<br />

the U.S. and a lawsuit<br />

three women brought<br />

against the classified site<br />

Backpage.com.<br />

FRISCO FANTASY<br />

Looking for a wellness<br />

reset? Who isn’t! At<br />

juicebeauty.ELLE.com,<br />

enter for a chance to<br />

win a weekend in San<br />

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Juice Beauty Creative<br />

Director of Makeup<br />

Gwyneth Paltrow.<br />

You and a guest will<br />

receive round-trip<br />

airfare, a two-night<br />

hotel stay, a skin-care<br />

consultation at Juice<br />

Beauty headquarters<br />

with the company’s<br />

founder, Karen Behnke,<br />

and a makeover with a<br />

top makeup artist. Plus,<br />

you’ll go to a Gwynethapproved<br />

workout<br />

class and restaurant,<br />

get a facial from the<br />

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and take home<br />

their skin-care products<br />

and makeup—in<br />

a pouch signed by<br />

Gwyneth herself! See<br />

page 103 for details.<br />

Clockwise from top left: Frank Masi; courtesy of Little, Brown and Company; David Giesbrecht; courtesy of Juice Beauty; Getty Images<br />

(2); courtesy of Warner Bros. Pictures; courtesy of Yiadom-Boakye, Jack Shainman Gallery, New York, and Corvi-Mora, London<br />

28<br />

KING<br />

ARTHUR


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DULLNESS<br />

There’s a vitamin C for that.<br />

WRINKLES<br />

There’s a retinoid for that.<br />

PORES<br />

There’s an AHA for that.<br />

SIGNS OF AGING<br />

There’s an antioxidant for that.<br />

LET’S BEAUTY TOGETHER


AY<br />

MAY 29<br />

Read up on one the biggest names<br />

in contemporary art—and fashion,<br />

thanks to his work with Marc Jacobs<br />

at Louis Vuitton—in this month’s<br />

Takashi Murakami: The Octopus Eats<br />

Its Own Leg (Skira Rizzoli) before the<br />

artist’s June show of the same name<br />

at Chicago’s MCA.<br />

“fab,” for that<br />

matter—are<br />

so much<br />

more than<br />

just a number.<br />

3<br />

1<br />

MAY 1<br />

With Prabal Gurung having<br />

designed a collection<br />

for Lane Bryant, and<br />

Ashley Graham stalking<br />

Michael Kors’s fall<br />

2017 runway (2), it begs<br />

the question: Is fashion<br />

finally waking up to<br />

the beauty of all sizes?<br />

Starting this month,<br />

Kate Hudson’s rainbowhued<br />

athleticwear,<br />

Fabletics (1), will run<br />

from size XXS to 3X.<br />

Proof that “fit”—and<br />

2<br />

MAY 15<br />

Of course, the<br />

OG It Girl would<br />

have a white-hot<br />

Instagram account<br />

(1.7 million followers).<br />

Study her painstakingly<br />

art-directed posts<br />

(4)—and, ya know,<br />

words of wisdom—in<br />

Assouline’s dreamy<br />

new pink tome, The Art<br />

of @BarbieStyle.<br />

MAY 16<br />

Putting the feel-good<br />

factor into four-inch<br />

stilettos: Aquazzura<br />

designer Edgardo<br />

Osorio’s loved-up,<br />

heart-adorned sandal (6)<br />

benefits modelphilanthropist<br />

Petra<br />

Nemcova’s Happy<br />

Hearts Fund.<br />

A quarter of<br />

the proceeds will<br />

aid schools in 10<br />

countries, including<br />

Thailand, where Nemcova<br />

survived the 2004<br />

tsunami. Available at<br />

aquazzura.com.<br />

MAY 21<br />

For a decade, Dutch<br />

revolutionary Iris van<br />

Herpen has shocked<br />

and awed the worlds<br />

of both fashion and art<br />

with surreal, sculptural<br />

clothing (3) utilizing<br />

groundbreaking technology<br />

(3-D printing)<br />

and materials (magnets,<br />

umbrella tines).<br />

Iris van Herpen:<br />

Transforming<br />

Fashion, at<br />

the Dallas<br />

Museum of<br />

Art (through<br />

August 20),<br />

showcases 55 of her<br />

greatest technical feats.<br />

Bergdorf Goodman’s NYC flagship becomes the<br />

place to shop this month with two must-visits: Kicking things off<br />

on May 1, company SVP and all-round icon Linda Fargo shares a few<br />

of her favorite things, like a hand-beaded mochilla bag from Ranjana<br />

Khan (7) and a Caroline Constas silk maxidress (8), in her new<br />

permanent shop, Linda’s at Bergdorf Goodman. And on the 15th of<br />

the month, Colombia’s buzzy fashion talent takes over the third floor:<br />

Mónica Holguín, the second-gen knitwear designer behind the<br />

oh-so-flattering gowns and separates of Pepa Pombo (9).<br />

4<br />

5<br />

6<br />

MAY 30<br />

In his new book, The<br />

World of Anna Sui<br />

(Abrams) (5), fashion<br />

journalist Tim Blanks<br />

explores Anna Sui’s career<br />

celebrating culture’s<br />

coolest archetypes—<br />

schoolgirls, flower children,<br />

punks, goths—<br />

just in time for<br />

the opening of<br />

the designer’s<br />

retrospective at<br />

London’s Fashion<br />

and Textile<br />

Museum (through<br />

October 1).<br />

8<br />

9<br />

Michael Kors and Iris van Herpen runway: Imaxtree.com; Takashi Murakami: courtesy of Rizzoli New York<br />

7<br />

36


870 MADISON AVENUE NEW YORK


May 2017<br />

ON THE COVER<br />

64<br />

ELLE AGENDA: POLITICS<br />

IS THE NEW BLACK<br />

Two writers debate fashion’s<br />

new obsession: feminism<br />

123<br />

ELLE SH PS<br />

Sandals and suits and beach<br />

bags—oh my! Your one-stop<br />

shop for all things poolside<br />

151<br />

ALTERED STATES<br />

Be the change! Five ELLE<br />

editors scrub in for total<br />

beauty transformations: brow<br />

tattoos, color contacts, and<br />

one life-changing facelift<br />

201<br />

INDEPENDENT SPIRIT<br />

Highly personalized hair is<br />

having a moment, from<br />

bold bleach jobs to wild,<br />

unbridled manes<br />

242<br />

SUPER GIRLS<br />

Leading our jam-packed<br />

Beauty Issue, six absolute<br />

stunners—Bella Hadid!<br />

Jasmine Tookes! Hailey<br />

Baldwin! and more—<br />

Lycra bikini top, CHROMAT,<br />

$116, collection at revolve com.<br />

Sequin skirt,$4,500, vinyl<br />

sandals, all, ALEXANDER<br />

WANG. Silver-plated<br />

hoop earring, ANNELISE<br />

MICHELSON, $398 (for pair).<br />

White gold and diamond<br />

stud earring, HEARTS<br />

ON FIRE, $895 (for pair).<br />

Crocodile backpack, NANCY<br />

GONZALEZ, $3,850. Leather<br />

clutch, KARA, $275. Silver<br />

bangles, all, LAGOS, $300<br />

each. White gold and diamond<br />

ring, CARTIER, $4,050. For<br />

details, see Shopping Guide.<br />

David Bellemere<br />

38<br />

VOLUME XXXII NUMBER 9 NO. 381


Andy Warhol: Ambulance Disaster, 1963-64 © The Andy Warhol Foundation / ARS<br />

Calvin Klein: Classic Denim Jeans (Archival Originals, 1980) and Classic Denim Jeans (Archival Originals, 1982)<br />

Photographed at The Andy Warhol Museum, Pittsburgh


p.000<br />

Chrissy Metz into<br />

stardom, redefining what<br />

beauty and womanhood<br />

look like on TV. By<br />

Maggie Bullock<br />

95<br />

ELLE FASHION<br />

What’s the best way<br />

to mix of-the-moment<br />

makeup and straightfrom-the-runway<br />

trends?<br />

Our fashion team breaks<br />

it down<br />

105<br />

ELLE ACCESSORIES<br />

Glide into summer<br />

with blooming slides,<br />

metallic extras, gleaming<br />

emeralds, and more<br />

118<br />

THE COLOR CURE<br />

To see Marimekko’s boho<br />

charm firsthand, Olivia<br />

Stren jets off to Finland<br />

with her mother in mind<br />

new mold-breaking<br />

superhero…In The Dinner,<br />

a Richard Gere–led ensemble<br />

navigates a familial<br />

minefield…Charmaine<br />

Craig’s sophomore novel<br />

examines identity in midcentury<br />

Burma…and more!<br />

222<br />

HAVEN SENT<br />

Meet the woman behind<br />

Manhattan’s make-orbreak<br />

cooking school.<br />

By Charlotte Druckman<br />

228<br />

THE PROPHET<br />

As an adaptation of The<br />

Handmaid’s Tale hits<br />

Hulu, Canadian literary<br />

force Margaret Atwood’s<br />

singular prescience is front<br />

and center once again.<br />

By Miranda Purves<br />

p.194<br />

p.80<br />

p.123<br />

p.242<br />

prove that fashion’s<br />

future looks varied<br />

and bright. By Molly<br />

Langmuir. Photographed<br />

by Terry Tsiolis. Styled<br />

by Samira Nasr<br />

260<br />

LAWS OF ATTRACTION<br />

Models on the rise make<br />

a splash in unexpected<br />

Technicolor mash-ups<br />

and major makeup.<br />

Photographed by<br />

Terry Tsiolis. Styled by<br />

Samira Nasr<br />

276<br />

CLEAN BREAK<br />

This summer’s chicest<br />

suit is simply white.<br />

Photographed by David<br />

Bellemere. Styled by<br />

David Vandewal<br />

FASHION<br />

77<br />

JET-SETTER:<br />

PAPERLESS POST-CARD<br />

Next stop, Peru! Stationery<br />

guru Alexa Hirschfeld<br />

details her trip to Lima<br />

and beyond. By Molly<br />

Langmuir<br />

80<br />

A VERY BETTY TAKEOVER<br />

America’s favorite<br />

doe-eyed ingenue, Betty<br />

Boop, gets a fashion<br />

editor–approved 2017<br />

makeover. Illustrated by<br />

Frank Caruso<br />

84<br />

REALITY TELEVISION<br />

NBC’s This Is Us launched<br />

272<br />

AMERICAN GOTH<br />

You’ve seen her in daring<br />

roles onscreen and off. But<br />

who is Mia Goth? By Seth<br />

Plattner. Photographed<br />

by Patric Shaw. Styled by<br />

Sabina Schreder<br />

284<br />

MAXIMUM EXPOSURE<br />

Max Mara hits Shanghai’s<br />

burgeoning art scene.<br />

Molly Langmuir reports<br />

on the ground<br />

FEATURES<br />

142<br />

ELLE INTELLIGENCE<br />

Introducing Pom<br />

Klementieff, Marvel’s<br />

Hailey Baldwin wears a knit top from<br />

Alexandre Vauthier and a gold necklace<br />

from Cartier. To get Baldwin’s makeup<br />

look, try Perfect Brows, The Filter<br />

Cream Contour & Glow, and Super<br />

Lips Billow. All, Hailey Baldwin for<br />

ModelCo. Maria Borges wears a cotton<br />

tank from Calvin Klein Underwear and<br />

a gold and diamond earring from 2017<br />

Tiffany Blue Book Collection. To get<br />

Borges’s makeup look, try Voluminous<br />

Original Mascara in Black, Infallible<br />

Paints Eye Shadow in Brown Sugar,<br />

Infallible Smokissime eyeliner in Black<br />

Smoke, and Infallible Paints/Lip in<br />

Sultry Sangria. All, L’Oréal Paris. Bella<br />

Hadid wears an organza top and skirt<br />

from Chanel, and gold earrings and a<br />

yellow and white gold and diamond<br />

earring from Chanel Fine Jewelry. On<br />

subscriber cover: Bella Hadid wears<br />

a cotton T-shirt from Gap, gold rings<br />

and a gold and diamond ring from Van<br />

Cleef & Arpels, a gold ring, a gold<br />

and diamond ring, and white gold<br />

ring from Chanel Fine Jewelry. To get<br />

Hadid’s makeup look, try Diorshow<br />

Pump’N’Volume mascara in Black,<br />

Diorshow Khôl in Smoky Brown, 5<br />

Couleurs Designer palette in Amber<br />

Design, and Rouge Dior lipstick in<br />

Ambitious Matte. All, Dior. Elsa Hosk<br />

wears a pink gold, diamond, and coral<br />

watch and a pink gold, diamond, ruby,<br />

and lacquer watch from Bulgari. To get<br />

Hosk’s makeup look, try Brow Precise<br />

Perfecting Highlighter, Great Lash<br />

Washable Mascara in Blackest Black,<br />

Eyestudio Lasting Drama Waterproof<br />

Gel Pencil in Sleek Onyx, and Color<br />

Sensational Creamy Matte Lip Color<br />

in Craving Coral. All, Maybelline<br />

New York. Candice Huffine wears a<br />

silk dress from Fendi, a gold bracelet<br />

from Lalaounis, and a gold pinkie ring<br />

from David Yurman. To get Huffine’s<br />

makeup look, try Brow Stylist Kabuki<br />

Blender, Voluminous Butterfly Mascara<br />

in Black, and Colour Riche La Palette<br />

Nude Intense. All, L’Oréal Paris.<br />

Jasmine Tookes wears a silk lace dress<br />

from Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, a<br />

gold and diamond earring from Maria<br />

Tash, a gold necklace from Cartier,<br />

and gold and diamond rings from<br />

Tiffany & Co. To get Tookes’s makeup<br />

look, try The Falsies Push Up Angel<br />

Washable Mascara in Very Black, The<br />

Rock Nudes Eye Shadow Palette, and<br />

Baby Lips Color Balm Crayon in Toasted<br />

Taupe. All, Maybelline New York.<br />

Photographed by Terry Tsiolis; styled<br />

by Samira Nasr; hair by Kayla MiChele<br />

at Streeters (Baldwin, Hosk), Romina<br />

Manenti at Home Agency (Borges,<br />

Huffine, Tookes), and Ward at the Wall<br />

Group (Hadid); makeup by Frankie<br />

Boyd at Tim Howard Management;<br />

manicures by Elisa Ferri at See<br />

Management (Baldwin, Hosk) and Gina<br />

Edwards at Kate Ryan Inc. (Borges,<br />

Hadid, Huffine, Tookes); produced<br />

by Wanted Media; fashion assistant:<br />

Yashua Simmons.<br />

Clockwise from top left: Terry Tsiolis; illustration by Frank Caruso; Devon Jarvis/Studio D (3); Terry Tsiolis (6);<br />

Alexander Farnsworth; Getty Images (2); Imaxtree.com (2)<br />

p.64<br />

44


HOT<br />

CONTENTS<br />

123<br />

SHOPS<br />

BROKEN<br />

ENGLISH<br />

3431 Via Oporto, Newport<br />

Beach, CA 92663;<br />

brokenenglishjewelry.com<br />

232<br />

EVERYBODY HAS<br />

HER REASONS<br />

Several months into the<br />

Trump presidency, Linda<br />

Tirado asks women who<br />

voted for him: How’s<br />

he doing?<br />

238<br />

ASK E. JEAN<br />

Relationship hell? E. Jean<br />

Carroll to the rescue!<br />

292<br />

AMERICAN DREAM<br />

Chris Evans on meditation,<br />

feigning adulthood,<br />

and hugging exes<br />

BEAUTY,<br />

HEALTH,<br />

FITNESS<br />

170<br />

STOCKED MARKET<br />

Find your new drugstore<br />

obsession, courtesy of<br />

international ELLE editors<br />

and influencers<br />

173<br />

SURE SHOTS<br />

Considering an injectable?<br />

April Long and Megan<br />

O’Neill consult leading<br />

derms on how to get<br />

the results you want<br />

from Botox, Restylane,<br />

and the rest<br />

181<br />

INSTANT MESSAGING<br />

Olivia Stren wades into the<br />

world of DIY skin care<br />

185<br />

SCENT-SATIONAL!<br />

Frédéric Malle talks with<br />

April Long about finding a<br />

perfect, personalized eau<br />

188<br />

ELLENESS<br />

News from the world of<br />

health and fitness<br />

194<br />

IT LIST<br />

p.170<br />

196<br />

AN AWAKING NIGHTMARE<br />

After years of debilitating<br />

insomnia, Rachael Combe<br />

finally finds relief from a<br />

surprising culprit<br />

IN EVERY<br />

ISSUE<br />

28 CALENDAR<br />

36 FASHION CALENDAR<br />

62 EDITOR’S LETTER<br />

68 LETTERS<br />

72 HOROSCOPE<br />

74 BEHIND THE COVERS<br />

78 CONTRIBUTORS<br />

291 SHOPPING GUIDE<br />

WHAT’S THERE: Ten years<br />

after launching her Santa<br />

Monica fine-jewelry<br />

boutique (a favorite of<br />

Kristen Stewart and<br />

Gwyneth Paltrow), owner<br />

Laura Freedman has just<br />

opened a second Cali<br />

location—in addition to her<br />

NYC outpost (right)—in<br />

Newport Beach’s pristine<br />

Lido Marina Village.<br />

PROJECTED WAIT-LIST ITEMS:<br />

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142<br />

INTEL<br />

L.A. STORY<br />

Edan Lepucki, author<br />

of 2014’s acclaimed dystopian<br />

novel California,<br />

continues her exploration<br />

of the Golden State in<br />

Woman No. 17 (Hogarth),<br />

set in L.A.’s Hollywood<br />

Hills. Alternating chapters—from<br />

the perspectives<br />

of a well-off woman<br />

who mines the selective<br />

mutism of her eldest son<br />

for a memoir, and her<br />

recently hired art-student<br />

nanny—increasingly circle<br />

the same complications of<br />

mother-child dynamics,<br />

the role and importance of<br />

art in life, and, soon, even<br />

the same characters. Lepucki’s<br />

exploration of personal<br />

relationships takes<br />

on an increasingly noirish<br />

tone: Much like Chekhov’s<br />

gun, a swimming pool introduced<br />

early in the book<br />

takes on the shadows of a<br />

floating body long before<br />

the reader realizes this<br />

might be a possibility.<br />

—Cotton Codinha<br />

105<br />

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p.232<br />

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@elleusa @elleusa @elleusa ELLE Magazine (US)<br />

LLE.COM<br />

Ogunnaike<br />

WILD GUESS<br />

Rapper A$AP Rocky may not<br />

throw out his old clothes—<br />

but don’t call him a hoarder.<br />

“That’s just called my<br />

closet,” he says. “Trends<br />

and styles always come back<br />

around eventually.” For his<br />

Ice Cream and Cotton Candy<br />

summer capsule with Guess<br />

Originals, he’s putting that<br />

nostalgic sensibility to use,<br />

giving a pastel sugar high to<br />

iconic men’s and women’s<br />

styles from the brand, which<br />

celebrated its thirty-fifth anniversary<br />

last year. The line<br />

includes zip-front miniskirts;<br />

string bikini tops; cropped,<br />

boxy jackets; and highwaist,<br />

flared jeans. The ’90s,<br />

says Rocky, were when “the<br />

grunge look met the techno<br />

look met the urban look met<br />

the hip-hop look—I wanted<br />

to pay homage to that.” Read<br />

more about his vision at<br />

ELLE.com/A$APRocky.<br />

THE NAKED TRUTH A new president, an au naturel resistance<br />

In Alexandria, Virginia, on the outskirts of our nation’s capital, a group of “social<br />

nudists”—you know, people who just like hanging out naked—gather for “nonsexual”<br />

get-togethers. As one attendee puts it, if they were all wearing little red hats, they’d be<br />

Shriners. But is any act of eccentricity also one of rebellion in a political culture that<br />

seems, at once, more impulsive and buttoned-up than ever before? Washington writer<br />

Britt Peterson gets up close and personal with the group at ELLE.com/NakedInDC.<br />

Staffer Spotlight<br />

GLAM SLAM<br />

Eight questions with<br />

ELLE.com Beauty Director<br />

Julie Schott<br />

Who’s your spirit animal/<br />

beauty icon?<br />

Amy Winehouse.<br />

What beauty product has<br />

stayed with you for more<br />

than a decade?<br />

I started using retinol for<br />

acne in middle school and<br />

haven’t stopped.<br />

What are the three best<br />

things in your bathroom<br />

cabinet or desk drawer<br />

right now ?<br />

Moon Juice Brain Dust,<br />

which I sprinkle in my<br />

morning coffee; Ortis’s<br />

Fruits & Fibres Transit<br />

Facile—they’re Belgian<br />

fiber chews!—and Dr.<br />

Dennis Gross Alpha Beta<br />

Universal Daily Peel pads.<br />

What do you always carry<br />

with you?<br />

Headphones and lip<br />

balm—Dior Addict Lip<br />

Glow Pomade.<br />

What’s your all-time<br />

favorite vacation spot?<br />

St. Barts.<br />

When you retire, what will<br />

you wear around the house<br />

all day ?<br />

An all-white Adidas men’s<br />

tracksuit—which also<br />

happens to be my preretirement<br />

look. Comfort<br />

is cool.<br />

What do you love the most<br />

about your job?<br />

A world without ELLE<br />

.com’s Slack channel is<br />

not a place I want to live<br />

in. It’s where I get—and<br />

give—all my news.<br />

If you could use only<br />

one kind of social media<br />

forever, what would it be?<br />

Instagram Stories lets<br />

my obsession with food<br />

really shine.<br />

Clockwise from top left: Hannah Sider (creative direction by AWGE); Tyler Joe; Getty Images;<br />

products courtesy of the brands; Getty Images; Kalle Gustafsson/Trunk Archive<br />

48


SUPER MAGNATE<br />

Heidi Klum isn’t just one of the most recognizable faces<br />

in the world; she’s also a whip-smart businesswoman. This<br />

month, she’ll let you pick her brain—and her beauty arsenal<br />

Before Heidi Klum became America’s Heidi<br />

Klum—before she became the creative director<br />

of her eponymous intimates line; before<br />

she launched a multiple Emmy Award–<br />

nominated TV show; before she appeared on<br />

the cover of ELLE, not once but three times—<br />

before all that, Heidi Klum was the daughter<br />

of a hairdresser and a cosmeticscompany<br />

executive who lived in the<br />

little town of Bergisch Gladbach,<br />

Germany, and planned to go to a<br />

Düsseldorf fashion-design school.<br />

“I would have learned everything<br />

from sewing in shoulder pads to<br />

buttons to fully designing,” Klum<br />

says. But then a friend convinced<br />

the 18-year-old Klum to try out for<br />

“Model 92,” a 25,000-contestant modeling<br />

contest, which she entered and proceeded<br />

to win. “And then,” Klum says, “everything<br />

was put on pause for about 20 years.” “Everything”<br />

meaning her serious design aspirations.<br />

Everything else kicked into hyperdrive.<br />

After winning the contest’s $300,000 modeling<br />

contract, Klum spent two years modeling<br />

in Europe, but it was when she moved to New<br />

York in 1994 that her career really took off. She<br />

was appearing regularly in magazine<br />

shoots by 1995, walked her first Victoria’s<br />

Secret fashion show in 1997,<br />

and landed the Sports Illustrated<br />

Swimsuit Issue cover the following<br />

year. She also found ways to work her<br />

early penchant for design into her increasingly<br />

multifaceted career: Klum<br />

has executive-produced and fronted<br />

the 15-seasons-and-counting fashion-design<br />

show Project Runway (Lifetime) since 2004<br />

and has worked on a number of design partnerships,<br />

including a capsule collection for<br />

Jordache Jeans and two maternity lines called<br />

TRANSFORMER<br />

This month, visit<br />

ELLE.com each<br />

Monday for stepby-step<br />

tutorials<br />

on four of Klum’s<br />

favorite looks<br />

COOL-GIRL HAIR<br />

MAY 1<br />

“My boyfriend’s<br />

sister was<br />

deejaying,”<br />

Klum says.<br />

“Normally, I have my team help<br />

get me ready, but it was a lastminute<br />

thing.” The can-do Klum<br />

created her own waves with<br />

a quick shampoo, a blow-dry,<br />

and a “really big curling iron.”<br />

Lavish and Loved. In 2008, she<br />

became an American citizen in<br />

what she calls “a double whammy”<br />

of circumstance. “Most of<br />

my income was coming in from<br />

America. I fell in love with America,”<br />

she says. “And then Obama<br />

came along, and I was just like,<br />

Yes, I want to vote for this dude.”<br />

Klum became the creative director<br />

of Heidi Klum Intimates<br />

in 2014, adding four to six yearly<br />

design meetings to the alreadypacked,<br />

meticulously colorcoded<br />

iCal she depends on to<br />

keep her own hectic schedule<br />

under control, not to mention<br />

that of her four children. One of<br />

Klum’s mantras is “The harder<br />

OLD-HOLLYWOOD GLAM<br />

MAY 8<br />

The key to a long-lasting red<br />

lip, Klum says, is to “start with<br />

a stain, and then put another<br />

color on top of it. So even if<br />

you kiss that off, or drink that<br />

off, or eat that<br />

off, there’s still the<br />

stain underneath.”<br />

Clockwise from<br />

right: Klum<br />

attends the 2017<br />

Grammy Awards;<br />

January 2002;<br />

May 2003<br />

you work, the luckier you get.” After spending<br />

more than two decades modeling swimsuits<br />

and lingerie sets, Klum has developed an exhaustive<br />

knowledge of what makes good underthings,<br />

drawing inspiration from her love<br />

of fabrics and interest in the fast-developing<br />

technology of the bra industry. “My motto is<br />

always ‘More boobs, less bra,’ ” she says.<br />

Klum’s immense and sustained career<br />

success has, in part, come from<br />

her winning combination of smarts,<br />

drive, and almost ineffable likability;<br />

she’s serious about her work without<br />

ever taking herself too seriously.<br />

For instance, in August 2015, Donald<br />

Trump told the New York Times that<br />

Klum was “sadly…no longer a 10.”<br />

Klum promptly posted a tongue-in-cheek video<br />

to her Instagram, in which she poses for a<br />

cameraman—a giant “10” scrawled across a<br />

paper taped to her chest—and is accosted by<br />

someone in a Trump mask who rips the “10”<br />

off to reveal a “9.99.” Klum then shrugs and<br />

goes on with the shoot. Looking back now, she<br />

says, “I just thought I would make light of it.<br />

Because, why not?” (While Klum was a guest at<br />

the president’s wedding to First Lady Melania<br />

and “always got along with him very well,” she<br />

notes, “I wouldn’t say we ever were friends.”)<br />

When the former supermodel turned 40<br />

in 2013, she was met with a barrage of “Oh<br />

my God, you’re 40 now. You’re so old,” she<br />

says. “And I was like, Old at 40? I’ll show<br />

you old!” That year, for her famed annual<br />

Halloween party—the host has a thing<br />

for elaborate costumes and has shown up<br />

as everything from Lady Godiva to Jessica<br />

Rabbit to an ape—Klum transformed into a<br />

95-year-old woman. Costumes aside, Klum<br />

has picked up more than a few quick tricks<br />

to get camera-ready under her own steam.<br />

This month, visit ELLE.com to slip into the<br />

career chameleon’s favorite easy-to-replicate<br />

beauty looks.—Keziah Weir<br />

DATE NIGHT<br />

MAY 15<br />

For an aesthetic<br />

aphrodisiac, go<br />

for what Klum<br />

calls “a big Bambi<br />

eye” and just give your lips a<br />

quick gloss. “I don’t have luscious<br />

Angelina Jolie lips,” she says,<br />

“so I do lots of lashes, top and<br />

bottom. And a lot of shading, to<br />

make the eye really big.”<br />

VA-VA-VOOM<br />

MAY 22<br />

Klum went all out for her 2015<br />

Jessica Rabbit costume—“an<br />

iconic sexy woman,” Klum says,<br />

and a cartoon to boot!—but<br />

this week, learn how to get the<br />

sexpot vibe, without<br />

the prosthetics.<br />

Purple eye shadow:<br />

never not flattering.<br />

Clockwise from top right: Getty Images (4); Billy Farrell/BFA/REX/Shutterstock; Gilles Bensimon (2)<br />

50


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O


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11<br />

VISIT ELLE.COM/INFLUENTIALS TO SEE MORE OF<br />

CHARLOTTE’S SPRING BEAUTY & FASHION PICKS.


EDITOR’S LETTER @Robbiemyers @Robbie_Elle<br />

You Are So<br />

Beautiful…to Me!<br />

My father has four daughters, two from his first marriage and two<br />

from his third (from two wives who looked so much alike that the<br />

latter accused my dad of trying to replicate the former), but we look<br />

like him in many ways. His wide brow is strongly expressed, as are<br />

his sharp jawline and the upward tilt of his eyes—characteristics that<br />

my grandmother frequently told us that she was proud to pass on, as<br />

they were traits of “great beauty” from her family line.<br />

Beauty is a word that contains multitudes: passion, longing,<br />

judgment, rebuke—who hasn’t hoped to define it, and possess it? I<br />

was comforted to learn early on from Grandmother that what people<br />

think of as beautiful is often relative and deeply narcissistic: It<br />

wasn’t until I had my own children, of course, that I was witness to<br />

true beauty, inarguable in any context. Right?<br />

In putting together our annual May Beauty Issue, we decided to<br />

look at what’s at the core of attending to our own beauty in ways<br />

big and small, from changing the arch of an eyebrow to lifting the<br />

eyebrows through surgery. Transformation is a big word to apply to<br />

what we’re after when we put on a no-smudge, plumping waterproof<br />

mascara, but a change in perception—our own and other people’s—<br />

is what lies in that act. (I’m perfectly comfortable with the tiny dopamine<br />

hit of pleasure I get from thinking I’ve achieved the perfect<br />

lip gloss–to–eye shadow ratio; and I no longer feel I’ve abandoned<br />

feminist principles by counting on science, and Rita Hazan, to bring<br />

forth the strawberry-blond highlights of my teenagerhood, even<br />

though when they were acquired “naturally”—i.e., while accruing<br />

sun damage after school at the beach—I swore I’d never do such a<br />

thing.) Among perhaps more profound transformations? Feeling<br />

not like herself anymore, our intrepid Beauty Adventuress, Holly<br />

Millea, goes for plastic surgery and discovers what’s most unlovely<br />

about the experience is the reaction of some of her friends. Senior<br />

Beauty and Fitness Editor Megan O’Neill—who believes that when<br />

it comes to beauty signifiers, the choices we make should please us,<br />

first—gives colored contact lenses a try, and finds that while few<br />

people notice her new eye color, this relatively small transformation<br />

has a big impact on her swagger.<br />

We also focus on transformations of the heart and mind: In a<br />

profile of actress Chrissy Metz, one of the stars of the blockbuster<br />

series This Is Us, Deputy Editor Maggie Bullock explores the<br />

charged territory of weight bias—and the cultural shift that can be<br />

occasioned by one character in a single television show. And Linda<br />

Tirado, author of Hand to Mouth: Living in Bootstrap America, hits<br />

the road to talk to female Trump voters about the kinds of changes<br />

they’d hoped he’d bring to the country. As with any good makeover<br />

story, Tirado will check back with the women several more times<br />

this year to see how reality is stacking up with their desires and expectations<br />

when they cast their ballots.<br />

In our up-front fashion pages, we’ve built looks around discrete<br />

beauty elements, since for many women, a ruby lip, say, or a low<br />

ponytail is not just their signature but an organizing principle for<br />

getting dressed. Our mission: Helping you dress to accentuate your,<br />

well, beauty marks. In our fashion well, we’ve expanded this idea<br />

further, inviting a strong new crop of models to join our six amazing<br />

cover girls—Hailey Baldwin, Maria Borges, Bella Hadid, Elsa Hosk,<br />

Candice Huffine, and Jasmine Tookes—to express how beauty and<br />

fashion work together to enhance individuality, as opposed to styling<br />

and powdering and hairspraying it away. Diversity and uniformity<br />

are opposites, after all. And beauty should be in the eye of the<br />

beholden, every bit as much as the beholder.<br />

PS: Inspired by just meeting with the most wonderful group of female mayors from<br />

around the world, who, led by Paris mayor Anne Hidalgo, were in NYC for the C40<br />

Women4Climate conference, I want to say that if you, like them, are a lover of natural<br />

beauty, i.e., Mother Nature, the People’s Climate March in Washington, DC, on April<br />

29 will be part of the fight to keep her healthy and vibrant—and oppose the proposed<br />

deep cuts to the EPA and the confounding notion that global warming is not caused by<br />

humans. For more information, go to ELLE.com/womensmarch.<br />

62


POLITICS IS THE NEW BLACK<br />

On fall 2017 runways from New York to Paris, fashion displayed its “woke-ness”<br />

from head to toe. Is this consumer-friendly activism a sign of feminist progress—<br />

or just a sellout? Two writers join the debate<br />

To hear some tell it, there are two ways to be a feminist: One version<br />

entails ceaseless seriousness, migrating from protest to protest<br />

with a Dworkin book in your bag. The other—the “fluffy,”<br />

not-really-feminist feminism—consists of sticking a solid-gold safety<br />

pin (signifying solidarity with immigrants and minority groups)<br />

on your Beyoncé-inspired beret and calling it a day.<br />

Yes, the gold safety pin is real. It costs $233 and has a motherof-pearl<br />

clasp, and buying it does not in itself constitute a political<br />

act. Nor does applying lipstick in a shade called “Activist” (by<br />

British brand Illamasqua) or lacing up a pair of Keds—“Ladies first<br />

since 1916”—whose latest empowerment-themed tag lines include<br />

“Make Your Move. Leave Your Mark” and “We’re Wolves in Zebra<br />

Print Clothing.” Femvertising can take an activist movement and<br />

turn it into merely a consumer trend.<br />

Still, feminists are also human women with multiple interests—<br />

which can include fashion, and pop music, and everything else<br />

society considers frivolous because it’s feminine. When I put out<br />

a call on social media for feminists whose early views had been<br />

shaped by pop culture, Susan Markham, a consultant who advises<br />

organizations on how to invest in women and girls, and an alum<br />

of pro-choice organization EMILY’s List, recalled that on her college<br />

campus at Ohio State University, only a handful of people<br />

discussed women’s issues. It wasn’t until she went to the ’90s<br />

music festival Lilith Fair—a girl-power phenomenon that<br />

was itself parodied for peddling “feminism lite”—that “I<br />

saw myself reflected. It wasn’t like, Ugh, I’m that nerdy<br />

girl in the corner,” Markham says. “There were other<br />

people who felt that way, and it was kind of a hip thing<br />

to do.” That same sense of belonging and solidarity<br />

was stoked by the sea of pink hats at<br />

women’s marches in January—not<br />

As a young feminist in the ’90s, I relished the dirty looks my Barbara<br />

Kruger “Your Body Is a Battleground” T-shirt got me on the streets<br />

of Dallas. Before you could just switch your Twitter avatar to declare<br />

your beliefs, we declared them through T-shirts, stompy boots, and<br />

buzzed hair—all signals to allies in enemy territory. We’d rush to say<br />

hi to one another in bookstores, at concerts, on the sidewalk. “Oh, I<br />

love your Righteous Babe button!” “And I love your Planned Parenthood<br />

T-shirt!”<br />

I wonder, though, what kind of community might be built around<br />

a Dior “We Should All Be Feminists” T-shirt ($710); or the Missoni<br />

version of the humble pussyhat women were encouraged to knit for<br />

themselves for the January marches—this one in cashmere, at $190 a<br />

pop. Do these items signal openness and political awareness to your<br />

sisters, or simply buying power?<br />

Fashion and feminism used to have a contentious relationship,<br />

with feminists charging that designers warped girls’ body images by<br />

parading size zeros down runways. It didn’t help when, in 2009, Karl<br />

Lagerfeld, having been asked to “channel” Coco Chanel in an interview,<br />

said, “I was never a feminist because I was never ugly enough<br />

for that.” Cut to Chanel spring 2015, when Lagerfeld himself staged<br />

a feminist-inspired collection featuring models waving slogans like<br />

“History Is Her Story.” Fashion does love a good flip-flop.<br />

Now that designers have caught on to the fact that feminist slogans<br />

can move product, the old “This Is What a Feminist Looks<br />

Like” T-shirt you could find in a secondhand store for a buck<br />

or two has gone upmarket with Prabal Gurung’s own “This<br />

Is What a Feminist Looks Like” shirt—one of 39 slogan tees<br />

that closed his fall 2017 show. Part of the proceeds from its<br />

$130 price tag will be divided between Planned Parenthood,<br />

the ACLU, and an organization benefiting survivors<br />

of the 2015 earthquake in Gurung’s native Nepal.<br />

Diane von Furstenberg: courtesy of BFA; Bella Hadid: Kailas (creative direction by David Yassky); remaining images: Getty Images<br />

Prabal<br />

Gurung’s<br />

runway finale<br />

included 39<br />

pro-woman<br />

messages.<br />

Somali American<br />

model Halima Aden<br />

walked Max Mara,<br />

Alberta Ferretti,<br />

and Yeezy in hijab,<br />

becoming fashion<br />

month’s most<br />

potent symbol.<br />

Christian<br />

Siriano’s (soldout)<br />

$25 tees:<br />

100 percent of<br />

proceeds went<br />

to the ACLU.<br />

In London,<br />

Indian-born<br />

Ashish Gupta<br />

spelled<br />

solidarity in<br />

sequins.<br />

DVF with<br />

the button<br />

handed out by<br />

the CFDA at<br />

40-plus NYFW<br />

shows.<br />

Versace<br />

issued a call<br />

for unity<br />

and strength<br />

in capital<br />

letters.<br />

Dior, spring<br />

2017: A portion<br />

of the proceeds<br />

from this tee will<br />

benefit Rihanna’s<br />

Clara Lionel<br />

Foundation.


AGENDA<br />

to mention that the waves of pink telegraphed a powerful, widespread<br />

unification to anyone who might want to argue that women’s<br />

rights are a niche concern.<br />

Political movements can only succeed with mass support—and<br />

peer pressure is a reliable motivator: Studies have found that people<br />

are more likely to vote if their friends say that they, too, voted.<br />

Likewise, wearing a “The Future Is Female” T-shirt isn’t activism<br />

per se, but it can help normalize feminist politics. Radical causes<br />

have always used imagery and celebrity to reach the mainstream,<br />

whether it’s NBA stars donning T-shirts emblazoned with the<br />

words “I Can’t Breathe” (the last words Eric Garner spoke before<br />

a police choke hold killed him) or Laverne Cox using her Orange<br />

Is the New Black role as a springboard for transgender advocacy.<br />

Imagine the gateway-drug effect of that mammoth “Feminist”<br />

sign backlighting Beyoncé’s Mrs. Carter Show World Tour, attended<br />

by nearly 2 million people and viewed by countless more<br />

on social media. Is it mere coincidence that in a poll conducted<br />

the following year by the Washington Post and the Kaiser Family<br />

Foundation, 63 percent of women ages 18 to 34 identified as feminist?<br />

In fact, the only group more likely to embrace the f word, at<br />

68 percent, was women 50 to 64, who came of age during feminism’s<br />

second wave.<br />

So a young feminist may well begin with a $95 Jonathan Simkhai<br />

“Feminist AF” T-shirt (100 percent of proceeds go to Planned Parenthood)—or<br />

even with the oeuvre of Katy Perry, who, as one woman<br />

wrote to me, has taught her 12-year-old daughter that feminism<br />

“wasn’t just a thing Mom and teachers were about.” She may be inspired<br />

by the pussyhats on the runway at Missoni (maybe she’ll knit<br />

her own), or might plunk down $6 for L’Occitane’s Solidarity<br />

Balm—benefiting NGOs that facilitate female leadership—instead<br />

of any old lip balm. As an ardent<br />

feminist activist, I believe that such surfacelevel<br />

engagement is not enough on its own.<br />

But I won’t deny that it can be a critical first<br />

step. I’ll take “I bought the T-shirt” over “I did<br />

nothing at all.”<br />

Missoni:<br />

A portion of<br />

proceeds will<br />

benefit The Circle,<br />

Annie Lennox’s<br />

humanitarian<br />

foundation.<br />

One hundred<br />

percent of<br />

proceeds from<br />

Public School’s<br />

$65 snapbacks<br />

benefit the<br />

ACLU.<br />

Mind you, some of these new offerings do not have a charitable<br />

component; other brands note that they will donate, but won’t<br />

specify how much. But as long as the money is going somewhere<br />

worthwhile, what’s there to be cynical about? Even beyond fundraising,<br />

surely a feminist T-shirt out in the world means more visibility<br />

for the fight. Every little bit of PR helps, right?<br />

Last year, the poet and visual artist Anne Boyer, who was diagnosed<br />

with breast cancer in 2014, questioned whether “awareness”<br />

should be equated with progress. In a piece in the New<br />

Inquiry, Boyer wrote that the prevailing cancer narrative of heroic<br />

fighting and survival glosses over the disease’s “industrial etiology,<br />

its misogynist and racist medical history, capitalist medicine’s incredible<br />

machine of profit, and the unequal distribution by class of<br />

suffering and death.” In other words, if we really want more women<br />

to survive breast cancer, we need to have uncomfortable dialogues<br />

about why treatment is so expensive, how screenings lead to false<br />

positives and unnecessary interventions, and why black women<br />

have an increasing incidence rate, while the rate for white women<br />

has stabilized.<br />

The enemy here is twofold: One is the self-satisfied complacency<br />

that can be fostered by making an easy, visible statement, patting<br />

oneself on the back, and moving on. The other is the kind of “cause<br />

marketing” that enriches corporations under the guise of advocacy—i.e.,<br />

when companies spend megabucks on celebrity-splashed<br />

ads celebrating their charitable works while donating a fraction of<br />

that amount to the charity in question.<br />

Maybe retailers really do want to help. Or maybe they just want<br />

to look like they do. Feminism, the word, may be fashionable, but<br />

the hard work of advocating for and creating an egalitarian world<br />

seems as unfashionable as ever. We should be asking questions<br />

like “Are these same companies rushing to give the women<br />

in their factories a living wage?” Feminism can’t just be a<br />

slogan you can take on and off at will. We should be wary<br />

of corporations that want to take our good intentions<br />

and sell them back to us, telling us we’re helping when<br />

we’re merely helping ourselves to a trend.<br />

All proceeds<br />

from Jonathan<br />

Simkhai’s tee<br />

go to Planned<br />

Parenthood.<br />

Adam Lippes’s<br />

presentation<br />

lent publicity to<br />

a local Planned<br />

Parenthood<br />

rally.<br />

Feminist AF: courtesy of Jonathan Simkhai; models with signs: Alexander Farnsworth; remaining images: Getty Images<br />

At Tommy Hilfiger,<br />

Gigi Hadid wore<br />

the #tiedtogether<br />

immigration<br />

solidarity<br />

bandanna seen<br />

at shows from Los<br />

Angeles to Paris.<br />

Artist Coco<br />

Capitán took<br />

the existential<br />

approach at<br />

Gucci.<br />

Balenciaga’s<br />

fall 2017<br />

menswear: an<br />

ode to Bernie<br />

Sanders.<br />

66


THE NEW<br />

HARLEM<br />

RENAISSANCE<br />

Photographer Mark Seliger and ELLE<br />

Fashion Director Samira Nasr found<br />

inspiration in Harlem for the March<br />

fashion shoot “Take the A Train”:<br />

SHE<br />

EXPLAINS<br />

THINGS<br />

In our March profile of<br />

writer Rebecca Solnit,<br />

“The Philosopher<br />

Queen,” Solnit<br />

told ELLE’s Keziah<br />

Weir that her new<br />

book, The Mother<br />

of All Questions<br />

(Haymarket), “is about<br />

everybody…we’re<br />

all in this liberation<br />

struggle.” ELLE<br />

readers loved it:<br />

“Extremely inspiring @elleusa”<br />

—tigerlilyhill, Instagram<br />

“I’m in love with this amazing<br />

story.”<br />

—officialamilnaestevao, Instagram<br />

“S/o to @elleusa, @markseliger,<br />

and @samiranasr for this amazing<br />

shoot (in my hood). Errrbody<br />

needs to check out the March issue<br />

#eyecandy #harlem.”<br />

—marielty, Instagram<br />

THE ARTIST<br />

IS PRESENT<br />

For our March cover shoot, Solange Knowles wowed ELLE<br />

readers with her thoughtful interview (“The Messenger”) and her<br />

statuesque beauty in striking red-and-white looks, from a Norma<br />

Kamali puffer coat to a sleek Céline suit:<br />

“There are a lot of things in the world that make me v sad<br />

but my…mentor [Salamishah Tillet] interviewed Solange<br />

for ELLE magazine and it’s lit.”—@crown_vic_, Twitter<br />

“Solange!!!!!! Best cover I’ve seen in a while!!!!!!!”<br />

—markpaul_, Instagram<br />

“@solangeknowles you definitely make [ELLE’s]<br />

job easy. Beautiful indeed.”<br />

—@brichtweets, Twitter<br />

“@solangeknowles. Can we just<br />

stop a minute to talk about how<br />

much you slayed?”—@blacksocialite,<br />

Twitter<br />

“Spectacular cover, spectacular<br />

styling.”—biancblue, Instagram<br />

“Beautiful essay!…<br />

I keep seeing strong<br />

essays on women<br />

from ELLE magazine.”<br />

—Teresa Walsh,<br />

Facebook<br />

“So much to love<br />

about this piece. The<br />

little factoid about<br />

Invasion of the Body<br />

Snatchers did not<br />

escape me. (Ha!)<br />

Out of respect to the<br />

somber ending to the<br />

piece, I’ll say that this<br />

phrase stood out for<br />

me: ‘her willingness<br />

to look at the thing<br />

straight on.’ It was a<br />

very keen observation<br />

of a very marked<br />

quality of [Solnit’s]<br />

being. Love.”—Natalie<br />

Batalha, Facebook<br />

“Fabulous. She is<br />

prolific, sassy, kind,<br />

and one of our<br />

cultural jewels.”<br />

—Maniko Dru<br />

Dadigan, Facebook<br />

“I keep going back<br />

to A Field Guide to<br />

Getting Lost.… So<br />

enjoyed the piece in<br />

ELLE. Wow.”—Frances<br />

Thomas, Facebook<br />

THE FEMALE<br />

GAZE<br />

After John H. Richardson’s<br />

insightful profile (“Junk<br />

Art,” March), artist Nicole<br />

Wittenberg—known for<br />

her paintings depicting the<br />

nude male form—found a<br />

fan in an ELLE reader:<br />

To Wittenberg: “I loved<br />

reading this article. Always<br />

knew you’d be a success<br />

with your natural talent. Still gorgeous<br />

as ever. And so is your artwork.”<br />

—Lexi Cardellini, Facebook<br />

ELLE readers, sound off! Contact us at ELLE,<br />

Letters to the Editor, 300 West 57th Street,<br />

New York, NY 10019; or elleletters@hearst.com.<br />

Letters may be edited for length and clarity.<br />

Solange: Terry Tsiolis (2);<br />

Harlem: Mark Seliger<br />

68


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Tali and Ophira Edut<br />

VIRGO (AUG 23–SEPT 22)<br />

TAURUS You’re on a growth trajectory<br />

APRIL 20–MAY 20<br />

May is off to a spirited start as<br />

the Sun beams through your sign<br />

until the 20th. What makes sense<br />

on paper may not land on the Taurus<br />

notepad, or in your bed. Thank your ruler,<br />

creatrix Venus—in your twelfth house of fantasy<br />

all month—for chipping away at your<br />

pragmatism. Make art for art’s sake and love<br />

for love’s sake. Your experimentation will yield<br />

positive results, especially near a partnershipcementing<br />

full moon on the 10th. Mars boosts<br />

your money mojo throughout the month.<br />

Practice your pitch: The new moon on the 25th<br />

opens the floodgates to abundance.<br />

GEMINI (MAY 21–JUNE 21) This month’s<br />

theme: radical reimagining. Adrenaline junkie<br />

Mars is motoring through Gemini, giving you<br />

the urge to tear down and rebuild basically everything.<br />

Wait until Gemini season begins on<br />

the 20th to fire up the proverbial jackhammer.<br />

Before then, quiet contemplation begets divine<br />

inspiration. On the 12th, you’ll electrify the<br />

world stage, thanks to a crackling current between<br />

Mars and Jupiter. Flaunt yourself fearlessly.<br />

People want in to Camp Gemini; but on<br />

the 19th and 29th, Saturn insists that you clearly<br />

define partnership parameters so you don’t<br />

hand out the milk for free.<br />

CANCER (JUNE 22–JULY 22) May’s futureforward<br />

star map helps you explore new schools<br />

of thought and then expand. Tap into technology<br />

with a lifesaving app, or outfit yourself with<br />

VR glasses—but avoid the rose-colored variety.<br />

A murky Mars cycle muddles your intuition in<br />

personal affairs this month. One exception: the<br />

full moon on the 10th. This lunation delivers<br />

shining clarity in the game of love—and even a<br />

noteworthy milestone. (Time to start knitting?)<br />

Escape off the grid to recharge near the new<br />

moon on the 25th. PS: A spotty cell phone signal<br />

is an underrated serenity saver.<br />

LEO (JULY 23–AUG 22) Your courageous and<br />

capable leadership will be called upon throughout<br />

the month. Shatter those glass ceilings—and<br />

don’t shy away from controversy. With planets<br />

pinging your genre-busting eleventh house, the<br />

element of surprise is the best tactic to deploy.<br />

An influential woman swings open doors of opportunity<br />

near the 10th’s full moon, but you<br />

may also have to put out a few fires with family.<br />

On the 19th and 29th, Cupid demands airtime,<br />

calling for structure in your love life, be it a<br />

weekly date night, a more balanced budget, or<br />

an exclusive commitment.<br />

Adele, May 5<br />

in May, Virgo, as momentumbooster<br />

Mars spends the month<br />

in your achievement zone. Streamline<br />

your goal sheet and focus on<br />

that one courageous coup. With the<br />

Sun in your peripatetic ninth house until the<br />

20th, venture into new territory. Your favorite<br />

vacation spot could even become a place to do<br />

business. Celestial seductress Venus slinks<br />

through your erotic eighth house all month.<br />

Thou giveth fever—and thou can take it away if<br />

your amour fails to step up near the 19th! Avert<br />

disaster by clearly spelling out your terms<br />

of engagement.<br />

LIBRA (SEPT 23–OCT 22) You can stop pulling<br />

petals off that daisy now, Libra. With Mercury<br />

ending a retrograde on the 3rd, you’ll see<br />

clearly who’s a “loves me” versus a “not.”<br />

May’s planets are sowing the seeds of romance,<br />

so stay present: A partner of lasting<br />

value could stroll right into your world by the<br />

20th. Already attached? Strengthen your<br />

merger in practical ways, like starting a joint<br />

investment portfolio. Ready your passport<br />

and backpack after the 20th, when the Sun<br />

and Mars activate your wanderlust. Your travels<br />

could be paired with an educational component<br />

or even teacher training.<br />

SCORPIO (OCT 23–NOV 21) Meow, Scorpio!<br />

May’s romantic roundup of planets fills<br />

your love tanks with diesel. You’re attracting<br />

keepers—but don’t sleep on self-care! With<br />

beautifying Venus in your wellness zone all<br />

month, your lit-from-within glow is the radiance<br />

to amplify. Eat clean, move often, and get<br />

your beauty rest. You’ll be ready for your closeup<br />

when 2017’s only Scorpio full moon pushes<br />

your achievements into the public eye on the<br />

10th. Don’t cling to the security of a nine-tofive.<br />

A side hustle or investment in a start-up<br />

you ignite after the 20th could flood the coffers<br />

this year and beyond!<br />

SAGITTARIUS (NOV 22–DEC 21) Don’t panic<br />

about May’s languid groove. As long as<br />

you’re moving the needle, it still counts as<br />

progress. A measured pace is preferable anyway,<br />

as the Sun drops anchor in your systematic<br />

sixth house until the 20th. Further, you’ll<br />

need to be grounded near the 19th, when a Jupiter–Venus<br />

opposition dangles temptation in<br />

your path. The offer may be too good to refuse,<br />

but research thoroughly! An attractive opposite<br />

could turn your head near the 25th’s new<br />

moon, but with strict Saturn in tow, make sure<br />

this relationship doesn’t derail your own plans.<br />

CAPRICORN (DEC 22–JAN 19) Modesty?<br />

Pssh. With the Sun in your flamboyant fifth<br />

house until the 20th, unleash your superpowers<br />

in a very public way. Monetary benefits<br />

flow in near the 9th, and you might even travel<br />

in pursuit of profit. Romantically, don’t settle<br />

for less than the royal treatment. But if<br />

you’re not the one being worshiped, dial back<br />

the caretaking and make bold requests to restore<br />

balance. Single? Your girlfriends could<br />

play Cupid, or you could reconnect with a<br />

childhood sweetheart. Kick your spring training<br />

into high gear after the 20th, as the Sun<br />

and motivator Mars pump up your stamina to<br />

beast mode.<br />

AQUARIUS (JAN 20–FEB 18) With the Taurus<br />

Sun in your domestic sector through the<br />

20th, May is your month for putting down<br />

roots. Nurture connections to your neglected<br />

inner circle, but save space on the calendar for<br />

new amies. Who knows? You could start a<br />

business alliance (or a band) with your local<br />

coffee-shop comrades and, by the 10th’s full<br />

moon, have many an achievement to blast<br />

around the Twittersphere. Heavenly heartthrobs<br />

Mars and Venus stoke your spring fever<br />

all month. An energetic contender—or a<br />

major romantic milestone—could arrive on<br />

the 12th or 25th.<br />

PISCES (FEB 19–MAR 20) May’s celestial<br />

winds send you soaring. Use this mercurial<br />

magic to refresh your friend feed and be a dating<br />

dilettante. Indeed, romantic travel will be<br />

sublime near the 10th, but a square-off between<br />

Venus and Jupiter demands that you<br />

operate from a stricter budget in May. Remember:<br />

The best things in life can be free (or<br />

at least comped). Mobilize with women after<br />

the 20th, as the Sun joins fiery Mars in your<br />

feminist fourth house. Ready to pull up<br />

stakes? A lucky listing could appear on the<br />

25th, but make sure the commute works with<br />

your career goals.<br />

ARIES (MAR 21–APR 19) Game on! After<br />

spring’s stagnant start, Mercury flips out of retrograde<br />

on May 3rd and restores your action-star<br />

status. Charge ahead—just make sure you’re<br />

working from a plan and a budget. Venus hovers<br />

in Aries all month, heightening your romantic<br />

superpowers, and a soul-mate–grade connection<br />

lures near the 10th’s full moon. If longrange<br />

goals misalign, however, the promise<br />

could fade near the 29th. Don’t stress if one door<br />

closes. With your ruler, trailblazing Mars, in<br />

#twinning Gemini all month, you’re hardly bereft<br />

of options. The right duet could strike a<br />

chord near the new moon on the 25th.<br />

Getty Images<br />

72<br />

For your daily reading from the<br />

AstroTwins, go to ELLE.com/horoscopes.


LOVELY AND AMAZING<br />

For this month’s Beauty Issue, we’re joined by a half dozen of fashion’s most<br />

sought-after glamour girls, who prove there’s no single definition of American<br />

beauty. They’ve got the looks—and are raising their voices to boot<br />

Age: 20 Hometown: Malibu,<br />

CA On her role models: “I was watching<br />

an Alaïa show from the ’90s, and it’s Naomi<br />

[Campbell], Cindy [Crawford], Linda<br />

[Evangelista]—the way they were radiating<br />

was beautiful. They were so confident.<br />

Those are the people I look up to.”<br />

Age: 26 Hometown:<br />

Huntington Beach, CA On her passion project:<br />

“My goal has always been to create my own<br />

beauty line. I have such a unique skin tone—<br />

when I go on set, makeup artists have to use all<br />

different mixes of makeup to match my skin. I’d<br />

love to do a line that has tones for everybody.”<br />

Age: 32 Hometown:<br />

Washington, DC On finding your voice:<br />

“Women have to come together in a way<br />

we haven’t before. We’re united and not<br />

standing for less than we deserve. It’s about<br />

celebrating who we are and not backing<br />

down. It’s not a time to be quiet.”<br />

Age: 28 Hometown: Stockholm,<br />

Sweden On learning from failure:<br />

“When I came to New York [at] 20, I didn’t<br />

know the level of professionalism required.<br />

You can’t half-ass it, because people will<br />

take your place. I screwed up many times<br />

and had to prove myself over seven years.”<br />

Age: 24 Hometown: Luanda,<br />

Angola On the power of representation:<br />

“The fashion industry is here for everyone,<br />

[regardless] of color or race. When I was<br />

growing up, I never saw someone like me,<br />

and now the other girls can see someone<br />

like them. It’s all about inspiration.”<br />

Age: 20 Hometown:<br />

Nyack, NY On industry misconceptions:<br />

“People think it’s all fun and glamorous,<br />

but it’s a lot of work, a lack of sleep, and a<br />

lot of being by yourself, away from family.<br />

Traveling the world alone when you’re 18<br />

or 19 is a lot.”<br />

Terry Tsiolis<br />

74


Clockwise from top left: The<br />

luxurious Belmond Hotel Monasterio;<br />

the Lima restaurant<br />

Rafael and its grilled octopus;<br />

Machu Picchu; a pisco sour;<br />

the colorful wares in Pisac<br />

Clockwise from top left: Belmond; Getty Images; Viniios Barros; Hans Stoll;<br />

Getty Images; Alamy; Getty Images; courtesy of Hirschfeld<br />

PAPERLESS<br />

POST-CARD<br />

Paperless Post cofounder Alexa Hirschfeld details<br />

her recent jaunt to Peru. By Molly Langmuir<br />

As a child, New York City native<br />

Alexa Hirschfeld spent a lot of<br />

time exploring online and learning<br />

about technology, while her<br />

younger brother James collected<br />

stamps and coins and created<br />

artwork. In 2009, the<br />

siblings, both Harvard<br />

grads, combined<br />

their interests and<br />

launched the start-up<br />

Paperless Post, which<br />

has raised $37 million<br />

in financing and produced<br />

200 million–plus virtual and<br />

Hirschfeld<br />

paper-stock cards. These days, Alexa,<br />

33, who caught the travel bug<br />

early—her first job was working<br />

on an edition of Let’s Go Greece—<br />

lives in New York’s East Village<br />

and heads out of the country<br />

whenever possible, most recently<br />

spending two weeks in Peru with<br />

her London-based boyfriend.<br />

“It was all about eating,” Hirschfeld<br />

says about the couple’s time<br />

in the seaside capital. Their first<br />

stop was Canta Rana, a casual<br />

lunch spot with some of the best<br />

ceviche in the city and great<br />

people-watching. “Go at 1 p.m.<br />

and you’ll see Lima’s young,<br />

cool, hipster society,” she says.<br />

More-formal options include<br />

the Japanese-Peruvian fusion<br />

restaurant Osaka, and<br />

Rafael, a white-tablecloth<br />

establishment<br />

with a memorably<br />

delicious pisco sour.<br />

(For the truly upscale,<br />

there’s Central, a sleek<br />

spot with artful food that<br />

is frequently referred to as the<br />

best restaurant in Latin America;<br />

its 11-course tasting menu is $107<br />

per person.) In between noshes,<br />

the couple visited the Museo<br />

Mario Testino, established by the<br />

Peruvian photographer in 2012<br />

to showcase the<br />

country’s art and<br />

culture, and spent a<br />

few leisurely hours<br />

on Punta Hermosa,<br />

a picturesque curve<br />

of surfer-friendly<br />

beach about an<br />

hour’s drive from<br />

the city center.<br />

From Lima, they headed to Cusco,<br />

perched in the Andes at 11,152<br />

feet (the trip takes a little over an<br />

hour by plane but a whopping 19<br />

hours by car). Once the capital of<br />

the Incan empire, it’s now filled<br />

with such an impressive mix of<br />

pre-Columbian and colonial<br />

architecture that it’s been named<br />

a UNESCO World Heritage site,<br />

and it boasts a number of richly<br />

appointed hotels (including the<br />

luxurious Belmond Hotel Monasterio,<br />

situated in a monastery<br />

built in 1592) to accommodate<br />

the crowds who flock here. The<br />

couple used the city as a base to<br />

explore the surrounding Sacred<br />

Valley, hiring a driver<br />

to take them to Pisac, a<br />

village with a large market<br />

offering up locally<br />

produced jewelry and<br />

textiles, and to Chinchero,<br />

where Hirschfeld<br />

bought baby-alpaca<br />

blankets and the pair<br />

visited a colonial-era<br />

church in which Catholic<br />

imagery mixes with Incan motifs.<br />

They also traveled to Machu<br />

Picchu by Inca Rail, a four-hour<br />

journey that winds through the<br />

jungle.<br />

While in Arequipa, their final stop<br />

in the Andes and the secondbiggest<br />

city in the country, they<br />

dined at Chicha, a stone-walled<br />

restaurant run by Gastón Acurio,<br />

the country’s most famous<br />

chef. (Hirschfeld recommends<br />

the rocoto relleno—a Peruvian<br />

stuffed pepper.) Finally, they took<br />

a day trip to Colca Canyon, which<br />

is twice as deep as the Grand<br />

Canyon and offers a chance to<br />

observe condors, with their ninefoot<br />

wingspans, flying at close<br />

range. All in all, not a bad way<br />

to spend two weeks, Hirschfeld<br />

says. “There’s this<br />

French expression,”<br />

she says, “where<br />

you say something<br />

is good—then add,<br />

‘But it’s not Peru.’ ”<br />

77


Seth Plattner<br />

@SETHPLATTNER<br />

SENIOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR, ELLE<br />

THIS MONTH: “GALAXY GIRL”<br />

(PAGE 143), “LIPSTICK JUNGLE”<br />

(PAGE 149), AND “AMERICAN<br />

GOTH” (PAGE 272)<br />

“Pom Klementieff,<br />

whom I interviewed,<br />

plays one of my<br />

favorite comic-book<br />

heroes—Mantis!—<br />

in Guardians of<br />

the Galaxy Vol. 2.”<br />

Reading: “Almost<br />

done with Hanya<br />

Yanagihara’s A Little<br />

Life.” Listening to:<br />

“It Ain’t Me” by<br />

Selena Gomez and<br />

Kygo, Betty Who’s<br />

The Valley, and<br />

“XXPEN$IVE”<br />

by Erika Jayne.<br />

Watching: “I’m<br />

the TV editor<br />

at ELLE, and<br />

currently I<br />

love 13 Reasons<br />

Why, Insecure,<br />

Westworld,<br />

Atlanta, and,<br />

duh, Game of<br />

Thrones.”<br />

78<br />

KLEMENTIEFF<br />

Linda<br />

Tirado<br />

@KILLERMARTINIS<br />

AUTHOR OF HAND TO<br />

MOUTH: LIVING IN<br />

BOOTSTRAP AMERICA<br />

THIS MONTH: “WHY<br />

I’M FOR TRUMP”<br />

(PAGE 232)<br />

Upcoming projects:<br />

“I’LL BE REPORTING<br />

FOR ELLE ON A GROUP<br />

OF FEMALE TRUMP<br />

VOTERS ALL YEAR.<br />

ALSO, I’M IN A NEW<br />

FILM CALLED NO<br />

MAN’S LAND. IT’S<br />

ABOUT THE MALHEUR<br />

NATIONAL WILDLIFE<br />

REFUGE ARMED<br />

PROTESTS.”<br />

Reading:<br />

DEATH OF THE<br />

LIBERAL CLASS,<br />

BY CHRIS HEDGES;<br />

A DAY AT THE<br />

FARE, BY PAMELA<br />

M. COVINGTON;<br />

REPUBLIC OF<br />

SPIN, BY DAVID<br />

GREENBERG; AND<br />

DEMOCRACY IN<br />

AMERICA, BY ALEXIS<br />

DE TOCQUEVILLE<br />

Splurge:<br />

“WHENEVER I’M IN<br />

A CITY WHERE I CAN<br />

BUY BOOKS, I GO A<br />

LITTLE INSANE.”<br />

Olivia Stren<br />

@OLIVIASTREN<br />

FREELANCE WRITER<br />

THIS MONTH: “THE COLOR CURE” (PAGE 118) AND “INSTANT MESSAGING” (PAGE 181)<br />

“Going to Marimekko’s Helsinki HQ, even in deepest<br />

winter, being surrounded by all those fabrics, was<br />

magical. You cannot be in a bad mood when you’re<br />

looking at a Marimekko print.” Reading: “I’m on a<br />

Carrie Fisher journey.” Watching: “The Americans<br />

just keeps getting better, and Keri Russell’s<br />

wardrobe alone is a masterpiece.” If I weren’t a<br />

writer, I’d be: “An illustrator!” Dream vacation<br />

destination: “I’m currently fantasizing about<br />

Corsica.” Upcoming projects: “I’m working on a<br />

collection of personal essays.”<br />

MARS<br />

Laura Sampedro<br />

@LAURAVSAMPEDRO<br />

MARIMEKKO<br />

DEPUTY MANAGING EDITOR, ELLE<br />

Listening to: “Bruno Mars’s 24K<br />

Magic on repeat!” Watching:<br />

The Great British Bake Off. “Who<br />

knew waiting for bread to rise could<br />

have all the suspense of a Hitchcock<br />

thriller?” First job: “I wrote for a<br />

music zine (hey, it was the late ’90s!)<br />

that covered female musicians. I<br />

transcribed a lot of interviews that<br />

took place in loud rock clubs.”<br />

Portraits: courtesy of the subjects; Klementieff, Mars, and Marimekko: Getty Images


MAXMARA.COM


TYLEBOSS<br />

LADY<br />

Betty sneaks a quick<br />

macchiato break at Music.ly’s<br />

New York HQ. Nothing<br />

combines chic and effciency<br />

quite like Balenciaga’s all-inone<br />

stiletto legging. (Blouse,<br />

Balenciaga; earrings,<br />

Jennifer Fisher.)<br />

A VERY<br />

BETTY<br />

TAKEOVER<br />

Hold onto your hats,<br />

boys: Everybody’s<br />

favorite liberated cartoon<br />

woman is ready to lean<br />

in! ELLE gives icon Betty<br />

Boop a (totally hot) 2017<br />

makeover. Illustrated<br />

by Frank Caruso<br />

ELLE has always been interested<br />

in the personal style of<br />

power-wielding creative women—<br />

headline-making entrepreneurs,<br />

influential politicos, best-selling<br />

authors, and James Beard Award–<br />

winning chefs. Yet despite all the<br />

talent we’ve celebrated over the<br />

years, never have we featured a<br />

woman with a career spanning a<br />

whopping eight decades, as Betty<br />

Boop has. (Never before have we<br />

featured a cartoon, either.) Since<br />

her 1930 debut—in a talkie titled<br />

Dizzy Dishes—Betty, with her signature<br />

curves and frank sexuality,<br />

has embodied many of the characteristics<br />

we admire at ELLE: She’s<br />

self-assured, captivating, and always<br />

in on the joke.<br />

Now, in a partnership with King<br />

Features Syndicate, we reimagine<br />

Betty as the consummate ELLE<br />

woman, circa 2017; an in-demand<br />

Manhattanite, running the show<br />

in a new, very now job (chief ideas<br />

officer at music-streaming startup<br />

Music.ly), with a wardrobe<br />

hot off the spring runways. Boop-<br />

Oop-a-Doop, indeed.<br />

©2017 King Features Syndicate, Inc./<br />

Fleischer Studios, Inc. TM Hearst Holdings,<br />

Inc./Fleischer Studios, Inc.<br />

80


WORKING<br />

FOR THE WEEKEND<br />

Awaiting her brunch<br />

partner at SoHo hot spot<br />

Le Coucou, Betty catches up<br />

with a B-school classmate on<br />

her Louis Vuitton–encased<br />

iPhone. The look: modeloff-duty<br />

meets alwayson<br />

tech wizard.<br />

READY-<br />

TO-SCOUT<br />

As a music-industry exec,<br />

Betty spends her days, and<br />

many nights, scouting talent at<br />

live performances and recordrelease<br />

parties. Céline’s<br />

Yves Klein–inspired dress,<br />

a spring runway hit, sets<br />

the tone.<br />

BIG<br />

LITTLE MEETING<br />

Box-fresh sneakers and<br />

a tracksuit-inspired take on<br />

tailoring (in signature Betty red,<br />

a real Pantone color) from buzzy<br />

label Off-White are just the thing<br />

for a meeting at Facebook New<br />

York’s supershrunken, Instaready<br />

miNY room.<br />

82


REALITY TELEVISION<br />

We can’t remember the last time everyone was this excited<br />

about an actress in an ensemble show. But in a single season of<br />

This Is Us, Chrissy Metz has redefined what a TV star—and a<br />

romantic lead—can look like. By Maggie Bullock<br />

On September 20, 2016, the day NBC’s This<br />

Is Us premiered, actor Sterling K. Brown<br />

walked up to costar Chrissy Metz and whispered,<br />

“ ‘All right, are you ready?,’ ” Brown<br />

recalls. “She said, ‘Ready for what?’ I said,<br />

‘Ready to be a star!’ ” Metz’s response: “She<br />

cracked up.” But Brown wasn’t joking. “At<br />

that point, I had seen the work that everybody<br />

else had yet to see.”<br />

Within months, Metz, 36, was a Golden<br />

Globe nominee being accosted in California<br />

Chicken Cafe by tearful women thanking<br />

her for her vulnerability and courage, confessing<br />

that This Is Us had “changed their<br />

lives.” There was her smiling face on the<br />

cover of People, with the line “I’m Proud of<br />

Who I Am.” Here she was on a SiriusXM<br />

radio show, slamming online trolls for<br />

body-shaming Lady Gaga post–Super Bowl:<br />

“I want to see somebody else get on that<br />

damn stage and do what she did!”<br />

American audiences have seen plus-size<br />

women on reality shows, weight-loss competitions,<br />

even the odd sitcom. But as Kate<br />

Pearson on This Is Us, Metz is the first to star<br />

in a major network drama that treats obesity,<br />

identity, and self-esteem as a central story<br />

line. The show has been praised for equipping<br />

Kate not just with a struggle, but with an<br />

actual life: She flails in search of a career but<br />

also has a hilarious, hot-for-her fiancé, Toby<br />

(Chris Sullivan), and gets propositioned for<br />

sex by another man. Metz herself has been<br />

happily dating This Is Us cameraman Josh<br />

Stancil, 40, for several months. Sitting in an<br />

unassuming Studio City coffee shop wearing<br />

a long gray jersey top, black jeans, black<br />

Christian Siriano flats, and bubblegum-pink<br />

lipstick, she notes that dating has never been<br />

a problem. “I know a lot of women, especially<br />

if they have insecurities, they take whatever<br />

is thrown at them,” Metz says, with a perfectly<br />

timed eye roll. “I’m like, girl—please.”<br />

This dual punch—the actress’s intimate,<br />

relatable onscreen plight, plus her real-life<br />

buoyancy and life-of-the-party charisma—<br />

seems flush with a potential that could transcend<br />

even almighty TV ratings. Will Chrissy<br />

Metz be a force for cultural progress and<br />

acceptance, even empathy and kindness—a<br />

poster girl along the lines of what ’90s-era<br />

Ellen DeGeneres became for lesbians: a lov-<br />

able, known entity, a friend, whose point of<br />

difference is eventually accepted as just one<br />

of her many facets? (Metz’s body, after all,<br />

is a point of difference only in the world of<br />

media; in the world of actual Americans,<br />

the average woman is size 16 to 18, and 67<br />

percent of women wear a size 14 or larger—<br />

making plus-size people the most underrepresented<br />

majority on TV.) Okay, that’s a lot<br />

to hang on a woman nine months into her<br />

first mega-role. But it’s not totally out of the<br />

question, either. Metz appears unusually<br />

at ease carrying the mantle of instant role<br />

model, one that many actors take decades to<br />

master, or never do.<br />

TV wizard Ryan Murphy (Glee, American<br />

Horror Story, The People v. O.J. Simpson)<br />

spotted a particular strength in Metz that<br />

inspired him to put her on the map in 2014.<br />

He wanted Ima “Barbara” Wiggles, a Park<br />

Avenue debutante recruited from a wellness<br />

facility to become the literal fat lady in FX’s<br />

American Horror Story: Freak Show, to have<br />

“all different types of appetites,” he says.<br />

“Somebody who, even back in the ’50s, thin<br />

or fat, would admit to loving sex and physicality.”<br />

In Metz’s audition tape, he recognized<br />

“a strong woman who doesn’t take shit<br />

from anybody, who struggles with cruelty, of<br />

course, but takes a stance of ‘I’m not going to<br />

be a victim of anybody or anything. I’m going<br />

to push through to be optimistic and hopeful.’<br />

” Murphy continues: “Like all pioneering<br />

people, her spirit is bigger than her circumstances—that’s<br />

what lifts people up.”<br />

This Is Us is a feat not just of casting but<br />

of construction, weaving flashbacks with<br />

current-day scenes to chronicle the Pearson<br />

family: sexy-earnest parents Jack and Rebecca<br />

(the magnetic Milo Ventimiglia and<br />

Mandy Moore) and their three kids—Metz’s<br />

Kate and her biological twin, Kevin (Justin<br />

Hartley), all of whom are white, and their<br />

adopted black “triplet,” Randall, played by<br />

Brown. Each Pearson sibling is loved and<br />

privileged—the show has the comfortable<br />

Pottery Barn catalog–veneer of wealth familiar<br />

from network-TV predecessors such<br />

as Parenthood—and yet each is in some way<br />

stuck: Type A overachiever Randall longs<br />

for a connection to his African American<br />

roots and birth parents; blond, brawny actor<br />

Kevin is a sitcom beefcake desperate to be<br />

taken seriously; and witty, vivacious Kate,<br />

for reasons that unfold gradually over season<br />

one, has been locked in a battle with her<br />

Clockwise from top left: Vivian Zink/NBC; Ron Batzdorff/NBC (3)<br />

84


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ody since childhood. The show is unapologetically<br />

melodramatic, and yet it has proven<br />

irresistible for even the most hard-nosed<br />

critics. Watching This Is Us is “like getting<br />

beaten up with a pillow soaked in tears,”<br />

wrote the New York Times. After one episode,<br />

queen of snark Sarah Silverman tweeted,<br />

“I’m a puddle of tears.”<br />

In January, NBC re-upped the cast’s contracts—not<br />

for one season, but two. It was a<br />

savvy way to lock down the freshly minted<br />

stars of fall’s top-rated new network show,<br />

not to mention one that had garnered NBC<br />

its first Golden Globe nod for best TV drama<br />

in a decade (plus Best Supporting Actress<br />

nominations for Metz and Moore). But the<br />

network’s chief exec also noted that this rare<br />

move was partly an insurance policy for the<br />

show’s emotionally invested viewers: The<br />

characters you love aren’t going anywhere.<br />

If there were any doubts about how directly<br />

NBC would address Kate’s weight, those<br />

were dispelled four minutes into the pilot.<br />

Some 15.3 million viewers have watched<br />

Metz disrobe down to her underwear, hesitate,<br />

then remove the last few ounces of<br />

added weight—her earrings—and step onto<br />

a scale. The network “does testing when you<br />

finish a pilot,” says This Is Us creator Dan<br />

Fogelman. “Needless to say, Kate’s metrics<br />

were off the charts. People immediately<br />

responded to the character and to Chrissy,<br />

which really came as no surprise to anyone.”<br />

Kate’s ordeal—the exhaustive calorie<br />

counting and demoralizing weigh-ins familiar<br />

to any long-term dieter—quickly stood<br />

out as one of the show’s most compelling<br />

story lines but also its most critiqued, by<br />

viewers who found Kate worryingly onedimensional.<br />

“I think it’s a little silly,” Fogelman<br />

says. “It’s like saying, Why is Randall’s<br />

story so often about his biological father, or<br />

Kevin’s about his acting career? These are the<br />

crossroad stories we introduced them with.<br />

Of course, they get a lot of screen time.”<br />

The parallels Metz sees with Kate “are so<br />

crazy,” she says. “I feel like it’s forcing me to<br />

look at these issues every day. Every time I<br />

pick up the script, every time I go to the refrigerator,<br />

as Chrissy, as Kate, as Chrissy,<br />

as Kate…I feel as if I am two people sometimes.”<br />

When Metz first learned about the<br />

role, she called her mother, Denise Hodge.<br />

“ ‘Mom, this role is meant for me,’ ” Hodge<br />

remembers her daughter saying. “ ‘Kate is<br />

the person that I was.’ ” Metz meant that<br />

Kate is just coming to the realization that<br />

weight itself is not the root of her problems,<br />

Metz and her<br />

onscreen “mom,”<br />

Mandy Moore, at<br />

ELLE’s Women in TV<br />

dinner in January<br />

“There aren’t a lot of<br />

roles on TV that<br />

people all over the<br />

world can relate to,”<br />

Ryan Murphy says.<br />

but a symptom—a truth hard-won by the actress<br />

herself.<br />

After her thirtieth birthday, “I had a big<br />

meltdown,” Metz says. She’d moved to L.A.<br />

at age 23 after being singled out by a talent<br />

scout at the Holiday Inn in her hometown of<br />

Gainesville, Florida. But in Hollywood, “I<br />

can count on my hands how many auditions<br />

I had in three years.” She landed a Bell South<br />

commercial and guest spots on My Name Is<br />

Earl and Entourage, but mostly she worked<br />

as an agent, booking kids for commercials.<br />

She’d struggled with her shape since childhood,<br />

enrolling in Weight Watchers as<br />

young as 11, but it was during this period,<br />

she says, that her weight spiraled upward.<br />

“You’re sitting at a desk,” she says. “Your life<br />

is literally two clients; they bring you Sprinkles<br />

cupcakes.”<br />

The process that followed Metz’s moment<br />

of reckoning not only gave her the footing<br />

to radically change her circumstances but<br />

also the fortitude to eventually access (and<br />

expose) many of her own vulnerabilities<br />

through Kate. Over time, she tried several<br />

therapists, read a lot (including the work<br />

of self-help guru Marianne Williamson),<br />

and spent time digging into deep “spiritual<br />

work.” Yes, her sense of humor applies even<br />

to that phrase. “People are like, ‘Oh, you<br />

moved to L.A. and you got so kooky!’ But<br />

whatever! Everybody’s on their own path.”<br />

On This Is Us, Kate considers bariatric<br />

surgery but decides against it—a conclusion<br />

that Metz, too, arrived at. “People don’t fill a<br />

void to this extent without some underlying<br />

issues,” she says. “The quick fixes, the fad<br />

diets, the surgeries—they don’t assess the<br />

emotional stuff, the trauma you’ve got to get<br />

over. The truth is, we’ve all got issues—mine<br />

just happen to be external.”<br />

Metz has been candid about long-simmering<br />

childhood pain resulting from her parents’<br />

divorce and its aftermath, during which<br />

Hodge—whom Metz describes as “as gritty<br />

as they come”—found herself a single mother<br />

of three struggling to pay the bills. She baked<br />

and sold cakes for a while, drove a cab, and<br />

ultimately got a job in the contracts department<br />

of the University of Florida, where she<br />

worked her way up. Metz says that in those<br />

years, “every penny went somewhere.”<br />

In another almost uncomfortably close<br />

parallel with her character—who at the end<br />

of season one hinted that the source of her<br />

pain was guilt and grief over her father’s<br />

death—Metz’s own father looms large<br />

in her psyche. Growing up, “I had a lot of<br />

resentment. How does a person leave?” Peripheral<br />

at best during her childhood, he recently<br />

came back into the picture, a turn of<br />

events that has the added, surreal twist of<br />

her newfound fame. Speaking to him now<br />

“is like talking to a stranger. I don’t know<br />

him.” But her father’s own weight struggle,<br />

and the fact of his quadruple bypass at age<br />

55, is a sobering connection for Metz, who<br />

acknowledges that what she’s contending<br />

with “is obviously hereditary, but it’s also<br />

issues, dare I say addictions, in my family.”<br />

Given the similarities between Metz and<br />

her character, it’s tempting to conflate the<br />

two—which no doubt adds fuel to audiences’<br />

fiercely protective fondness for Kate. “But<br />

that would be a mistake,” Fogelman says.<br />

“It actually, accidentally, does a slight disservice<br />

to what Chrissy’s doing as an actress<br />

playing the character.” For Fogelman,<br />

there’s no comparison: “Kate’s a late bloomer,<br />

shy, not one to hold the spotlight comfortably.<br />

Clearly marked by tragedy, there is<br />

a sadness to her. Chrissy is filled with light.<br />

She’s funny, warm, charismatic. She’s very<br />

popular with our cast and crew. She is not a<br />

wallflower. She was a star from day one.”<br />

There it is again: that s word. Metz may<br />

find the idea hilarious, but her veteran colleagues<br />

marvel at a born star. “There’s the<br />

craft of acting, and there’s the personality<br />

that is just God-given,” Brown says. “Someone<br />

who just lights up whatever space they<br />

walk into. That is Chrissy Metz.”<br />

Getty Images<br />

92


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95


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Have fun with a<br />

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96


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A sleek topknot is the best way to<br />

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Knit top, $1,050, pleatedleather<br />

skirt, $4,900,<br />

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Dress up a casual bun with a crowning touch<br />

Gold and diamond hair pin, ANA KHOURI, $7,600,<br />

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Micropleats that go casual or up-all-night<br />

Pleated metallic skirt, MARCIANO, $158,<br />

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Flatforms: The new dance-floor must<br />

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Be a mix master:<br />

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T-shirt, HANES, $5. Steel<br />

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Take-no-prisoners slick liquid liner<br />

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A sleeveless moto in summer white<br />

Lambskin vest, MILLY, $1,195, at Milly, NYC<br />

Pussyhat-pink heels: Meow!<br />

Velvet sandal, PIERRE HARDY, $1,395,<br />

similar styles at pierrehardy.com<br />

STYLIST’S TIP<br />

With a few inches<br />

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100


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Rubber slide, PRADA, at select<br />

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Svend Lindbaek (prop styling by Peter Tran for Art Department); for details, see Shopping Guide<br />

The latest crop of the poolside staple<br />

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Raffia- and beadembellished<br />

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LET THERE BE LIGHT<br />

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White gold and<br />

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SANDRO, $325, visit<br />

sandro-paris.com<br />

Gold and diamond<br />

earrings, SPINELLI<br />

KILCOLLIN,<br />

collection at<br />

latestrevival.com<br />

Patent leather<br />

oxford, STUART<br />

WEITZMAN, $455, visit<br />

stuartweitzman.com<br />

Crystal-embellished<br />

leather ankle boot, AGL,<br />

$385, visit agl.com<br />

Courtesy of the designers<br />

114


EMERALD CITY<br />

Follow the yellow brick road—a wonderland<br />

of verdant gemstones awaits<br />

Emerald, diamond,<br />

and platinum<br />

necklace, BULGARI,<br />

call 800-BULGARI<br />

Emerald and diamond<br />

earrings, HARRY<br />

WINSTON, visit<br />

harrywinston.com<br />

Diamond, emerald,<br />

white gold, and<br />

platinum ring,<br />

VAN CLEEF &<br />

ARPELS, visit<br />

vancleefarpels.com<br />

Diamond, onyx,<br />

emerald, and white<br />

gold bracelet,<br />

CARTIER, available by<br />

appointment only, call<br />

800-CARTIER<br />

Emerald, diamond,<br />

and white gold ring,<br />

DE GRISOGONO,<br />

visit degrisogono.com<br />

Courtesy of the designers<br />

116


From left: Marimekko’s<br />

reissued styles<br />

Monrepos (1967),<br />

Kentauri (1973),<br />

Liidokki (1974), and<br />

Linjaviitta (1966)<br />

THE COLOR CURE<br />

In chilly Finland, Olivia Stren discovers the secret to fashion<br />

survival: ebullient, color-saturated prints<br />

“Your mother looks like a gypsy,” a socalled<br />

friend once said to me, referring to<br />

the clothes my mom would wear to pick<br />

me up from school—no doubt making an<br />

entrance. It was the mid-’80s. I was about<br />

10 years old. Among all the other mothers,<br />

sensibly dressed in their sweatshirts and<br />

jeans or Angela Bower–style power suits, my<br />

mother was forever outfitted in voluminous<br />

skirts and robes paysannes.<br />

Born in a taxicab in Casablanca in 1941—<br />

the first of her dramatic entrances—my mother<br />

had been forced to leave sunny Morocco<br />

with her family for political and religious<br />

reasons at 16 years old. After a decade in Paris,<br />

she arrived in Toronto on April 27, 1969, at<br />

the age of 27. The next day—she loves to tell<br />

me, as if still recuperating from the shock—<br />

Toronto greeted her with a snowstorm. The<br />

climate was a match, she felt, to the bloodless<br />

temperament of the stereotypical Anglo-<br />

Saxon Torontonian. Ill-equipped for this<br />

place (sartorially, culturally, psychically),<br />

she felt lonely and marginalized, and resolved<br />

to dress the part: Her exotic clothes<br />

became a kind of commitment to not belonging.<br />

So my classmate’s “gypsy” comment<br />

did not wound me; to my eyes, her<br />

mother looked conventional. And in our<br />

house, conventional, along with its plain sister,<br />

appropriate, were pejoratives. My mother’s<br />

dresses, meanwhile, are laced up in my<br />

memory with all that is feminine and warm,<br />

but also rebellious.<br />

Perhaps it’s a reaction to fashion’s recent,<br />

ardent love affair with minimalism, or an<br />

embrace of the inclusivity marking the protests<br />

in the streets, but peasant-style dresses<br />

feel utterly of-the-moment once again. It’s<br />

true—there’s something about that look<br />

that is never completely out of style (my<br />

mom wore her dresses right through the<br />

beige, Calvin ’90s). But the effortless,<br />

breezy vibe and artisanal, slow-fashion<br />

quality—not to mention the specifics: blouson<br />

sleeves, rich colors, bohemian prints—<br />

could be spotted floating down the spring<br />

runways of Alexander McQueen, Jacquemus,<br />

Ulla Johnson, and Peter Pilotto. Meanwhile,<br />

Colombian designer Johanna Ortiz’s<br />

billowing volumes and the richly embroidered,<br />

tasseled, Ukrainian-style vyshyvanka<br />

dresses of Vita Kin are hot sellers on<br />

Matchesfashion.com.<br />

My mother would probably be most<br />

moved, however, by the spring offerings of<br />

Finland’s iconic fashion house, Marimekko.<br />

The company has rereleased five archival<br />

pieces hailing from the ’60s and ’70s, which<br />

bear only the most minor changes from the<br />

Courtesy of Marimekko<br />

118


Portraits: courtesy of Marimekko; runway: Imaxtree.com (2); Vita Kin: courtesy of the designer<br />

originals. What’s striking is not how old<br />

these designs are, but how new they look.<br />

Marimekko’s origin story is the stuff of<br />

national lore in Finland, as much a part of<br />

the local identity as saunas and sisu (which<br />

means strength of will and determination—<br />

and, I’m told, is a defining local trait). The<br />

CliffsNotes version: Armi Ratia, a former<br />

textile designer and copywriter, founded<br />

Marimekko (Finnish for “Mari’s dress”) in<br />

1951, when she galvanized a group of female<br />

artists to create avant-garde prints to<br />

enliven the oilcloth produced by her husband’s<br />

company.<br />

“Armi was a visionary,” says Tiina Alahuhta-Kasko,<br />

the brand’s current president.<br />

“She didn’t like the delicate, romantic<br />

florals of that time. She felt the world was<br />

longing for positivity, that gray, postwar<br />

Finland was longing for an injection of<br />

energy. For her, the prints and the colors<br />

were an answer to that void.” If those<br />

life-validating prints served as an anodyne<br />

to the grim political climate, they also<br />

were a survival tactic amid the epic, lightstarved<br />

Finnish winters.<br />

In 1959, Ratia officially took the brand<br />

international when she packed an airplane<br />

full of Finnish models and flew to the<br />

U.S. The following year, Jackie Kennedy<br />

snapped up seven dresses during her husband’s<br />

presidential campaign, appearing<br />

in a berry-colored Marimekko sundress on<br />

the cover of Sports Illustrated. Those early<br />

dresses, designed by Vuokko Eskolin-<br />

Nurmesniemi, considered one of the<br />

foremothers of Finnish design, were<br />

architectural in silhouette and fashioned<br />

with as few seams<br />

as possible to facilitate<br />

movement and dispense<br />

with restrictions both<br />

physical and ideological.<br />

The heavy<br />

cotton fabrics—never<br />

anything flimsy<br />

or fragile—were hardy,<br />

utilitarian. “The<br />

woman is sexy, not<br />

the dress,” the designer<br />

famously said.<br />

These were clothes<br />

intended less to entice<br />

others than to empower<br />

their wearers.<br />

BOHEMIAN RHAPSODY<br />

Blouson sleeves<br />

and mega prints in the<br />

spring collections.<br />

ALEXANDER<br />

McQUEEN<br />

PETER PILOTTO<br />

Two exemplars of<br />

Marimekko’s 67-year<br />

tradition of female<br />

print designers:<br />

Annika Rimala (above,<br />

in 1960) and Maija<br />

Isola (in the 1980s)<br />

And they were rife with contrasts—between<br />

the practical silhouettes and the playful<br />

prints, the humble fabrics and the theatrical<br />

colors, the Scandinavian minimalism<br />

and the Russian ornamentalism. Such juxtapositions,<br />

I’m told by every woman I meet<br />

at Marimekko, lie at the heart of the company.<br />

(And the company is 94 percent female,<br />

by the way; men there are as exotic as<br />

palm trees.)<br />

This algorithm of opposites was clearly<br />

successful. Marimekko prints, headlined<br />

by the iconic poppy, made their way onto<br />

everything from sundresses to oven mitts—<br />

even, my mother tells me, onto the curtains<br />

(strawberry print) that cheered my parents’<br />

tiny gecko-and-salamander–touristed<br />

bungalow in Tanzania in the early ’70s,<br />

when my father was completing his PhD in<br />

African politics. The idea to animate a dress<br />

and a dinner napkin with the same pattern<br />

cannily qualified Marimekko as one of the<br />

world’s first lifestyle companies. Today,<br />

the company’s Helsinki headquarters<br />

prints 1.2 million square yards of fabric<br />

a year in riotous Marimekko designs<br />

(some 3,500 of them) and debuts 20<br />

new prints annually.<br />

In December, I visited<br />

Marimekko HQ<br />

and capped off my<br />

trip with a visit to<br />

the fortress island<br />

of Suomenlinna, a<br />

15-minute ferry ride<br />

off the wind-frilled<br />

coast of Helsinki.<br />

It’s the sort of place<br />

that might inspire a<br />

Tolkien epic—which<br />

is not as far-fetched<br />

as it might sound:<br />

Tolkien actually<br />

fashioned Elvish after<br />

Finnish. Icicles<br />

dangle from stone<br />

buildings like vitrified<br />

tassels, and<br />

VITA KIN<br />

giant rocks are accoutred in ocher-colored<br />

lichen in patterns that could have inspired<br />

Marimekko prints, and probably did. With<br />

its mystical, round-roofed earthen bunkers,<br />

the island looks like a sort of Hamptons<br />

for hobbits.<br />

On my ferry ride over, even the clock tower<br />

perched above the jetty barracks—washed<br />

a blush pink—looks ruddy-cheeked from the<br />

wind, and by 3 p.m., the sun is already setting.<br />

Chilled to the bone, I try to summon a<br />

little sisu. “Sisu is a will to make it. It’s what<br />

you need during a Finnish winter, when<br />

you’re fighting a hard wind,” says Marimekko<br />

PR manager Sanna-Kaisa Niikko, though<br />

I can barely hear her over the gusts.<br />

My mind wanders to a warmer place;<br />

I fantasize about spring and trading my<br />

parka for, say, a rereleased, circa-1967<br />

circular-hemmed Monrepos dress in a<br />

print called Keidas (“oasis”)—its charged<br />

shades of orange and cactus green evoking<br />

all the rawness and jubilance of a Matisse<br />

paper cutout. Or the Liidokki dress (1974),<br />

which conjures Latin American caftans.<br />

You could see Frida Kahlo wearing it in her<br />

Casa Azul. Or, for that matter, my mom<br />

wearing it to run errands. For as long as I<br />

can remember, she’s worn an airy white<br />

embroidered summer dress. It’s a Mexican<br />

wedding dress, but she’d wear it to pick me<br />

up from playdates or to go to the grocery<br />

store, always with red lipstick and her favorite<br />

Guerlain Vol de Nuit perfume. This<br />

rejection of occasion dressing is another<br />

shared Marimekko principle: “Marimekko<br />

is meant for everyday,” Alahuhta-Kasko<br />

tells me, “because every day is the heart<br />

of your whole life.” Last summer, at 74, my<br />

mom wore that Mexican wedding dress to<br />

accompany me and my two-year-old son,<br />

Leo, to the sandbox.<br />

Unlike my mom, I’m more vulnerable to<br />

trends, and lately I find myself falling hard<br />

for a full-sleeve peasant dress. I long for a<br />

closet full of them. It’s a longing, perhaps, to<br />

recapture my mother’s youth—and maybe<br />

hang on to some of my own.


Miu Miu runway (5): Imaxtree.com;<br />

background: Getty Images<br />

HERE<br />

COMES<br />

THE SUN!<br />

Your search for the perfect<br />

suit (and, of course, the<br />

shades, sandals, and coverup)<br />

ends here. All you need<br />

now is a getaway plan…<br />

EDITED BY JADE FRAMPTON


RETRO ACTIVE<br />

Hit rewind with ’50s pinup–worthy hot pants and superslim knits<br />

Sunglasses, ALICE + OLIVIA BY STACEY<br />

BENDET, $350, collection at shopbop.com<br />

Calfskin tote, AKRIS, $2,390,<br />

at Akris boutiques nationwide<br />

UNDER<br />

$100<br />

PRADA<br />

Elevated designer pool slides—the perfect way to offset a throwback look<br />

Leather platform, TORY SPORT,<br />

$265, visit torysport.com<br />

Crystal earrings, CH CAROLINA<br />

HERRERA, $255, at CH Carolina<br />

Herrera, NYC<br />

Terry cloth bikini top, $155, bottom, $130, both,<br />

MARA HOFFMAN, visit marahoffman.com<br />

UNDER<br />

$75<br />

Leather wedge, NAUTICA, $50,<br />

similar styles at nautica.com<br />

Cotton cardigan, $49, leather belt, $30, both,<br />

LANDS’ END, visit landsend.com. Silk shorts,<br />

COACH 1941, $250, similar styles at coach.com<br />

BEAUTY TIP<br />

Beauty icon Linda<br />

Rodin was inspired<br />

by OG beach babe<br />

Brigitte Bardot<br />

when creating this<br />

lipstick shade,<br />

“So Mod.”<br />

Lipstick in So Mod,<br />

RODIN OLIO<br />

LUSSO, $38, visit<br />

oliolusso.com<br />

Calfskin slide, BOSS, $545,<br />

at Hugo Boss stores nationwide<br />

Seersucker bikini top, LISA MARIE<br />

FERNANDEZ, $385 (sold as a set), visit<br />

lisamariefernandez.com. Polyamide Lycra bikini<br />

bottom, LONELY, $115, visit lonelylabel.com<br />

UNDER<br />

$100<br />

Crochet straw sun<br />

hat, BANANA<br />

REPUBLIC, $58, visit<br />

bananarepublic.com<br />

UNDER<br />

$75<br />

Recycled-fabric platform, H&M CONSCIOUS<br />

EXCLUSIVE, $99, visit hm.com<br />

Runway: Imaxtree.com; Mara Hoffman bikini set, Lands’ End cardigan, Coach 1941 shorts, Lisa Marie Fernandez bikini top, Banana Republic hat,<br />

and Nautica flatform: Jeff Harris/Studio D (styled by Anita Salerno for R.J. Bennett Represents); lipstick smear: Philip Friedman/Studio D<br />

124


THE GROVE<br />

Equal parts boho and bombshell, Bardot’s breezy,<br />

sexy style is just a citrus (or gingham) print away<br />

UNDER<br />

$200<br />

ALTUZARRA<br />

Energy Yellow Citrus &<br />

Honey Patting Splash<br />

Mask, BLITHE, $45, visit<br />

glowrecipe.com<br />

Raffia hoop earrings, MERCEDES SALAZAR,<br />

$175, collection at Bergdorf Goodman, NYC<br />

Nylon spandex bikini top, $98, bottom,<br />

$98, both, WHIT, visit whit-ny.com<br />

BEAUTY TIP<br />

No sun-soaked<br />

vacation in the<br />

cards? Get a dewy<br />

glow at home in<br />

15 seconds with the<br />

citrus-packed Blithe<br />

splash mask.<br />

Gingham dress, RACHEL COMEY,<br />

$644, collection at shopbop.com<br />

Sweet, not-so-serious additions offer a certain fresh-picked charm<br />

Gold, red enamel, and diamond ring, ALISON<br />

LOU, $945, visit alisonlou.com<br />

UNDER<br />

$100<br />

Cotton top, LUCKY BRAND, $99,<br />

at Lucky Brand stores nationwide<br />

Sunglasses, THIERRY LASRY, $385,<br />

visit thierrylasry.com<br />

Polyamide elastane bikini top, MARYSIA, $137,<br />

visit marysiaswim.com. Print shorts, PINKO,<br />

$338, at Pinko, NYC<br />

Gold, pavé ruby, and diamond earrings,<br />

SYDNEY EVAN, $905, visit sydneyevan.com<br />

Straw tote, KATE SPADE NEW YORK,<br />

$398, visit katespade.com<br />

UNDER<br />

$100<br />

Polyamide spandex bikini top, $39, bottom,<br />

$39, both, GUESS, visit guess.com<br />

Crystal-embellished denim sandal, GIANVITO<br />

ROSSI, $1,265, collection at Neiman Marcus<br />

stores nationwide<br />

Gold chain, $2,400, pink sapphire, green<br />

tsavorite, black and white diamond, and gold<br />

charm, $5,810, both, CAROLINA BUCCI, visit<br />

carolinabucci.com<br />

Runway: Imaxtree.com; oil spill: Devon Jarvis/Studio D; Rachel Comey dress and Marysia bikini top: Jeff Harris/Studio D (styled by Anita Salerno for R.J. Bennett Represents)<br />

126


Photographed by Tyler Joe<br />

always on


SUIT UP!<br />

Three of-the-moment shapes to highlight your most valuable assets<br />

WEAR IT WITH<br />

Nylon spandex swimsuit, ONIA, Polyamide Lycra swimsuit, OYE<br />

$195, visit onia.com SWIMWEAR, $350, collection at revolve.com<br />

Polyamide elastane bikini top, $99,<br />

bottom, $99, both, CALI DREAMING,<br />

visit cali-dreaming.com<br />

UNDER<br />

$125<br />

Spandex-blend swimsuit, GOTTEX,<br />

$108, collection at amazon.com<br />

Neoprene and mesh bikini top,<br />

$150, bottom, $100, both, STELLA<br />

McCARTNEY SWIMWEAR, visit<br />

stellamccartney.com<br />

UNDER<br />

$100<br />

Nylon spandex swimsuit, MYRA<br />

SWIM, $91, visit myraswim.com<br />

Polyamide spandex swimsuit, ERES,<br />

$570, collection at net-a-porter.com<br />

Neoprene bikini, DION LEE<br />

[WATER], $320, visit dionlee.com<br />

Nylon Lycra swimsuit, NORMA<br />

KAMALI, $150, visit normakamali.com<br />

UNDER<br />

$100<br />

Tactel nylon spandex swimsuit,<br />

J.CREW, $98, visit jcrew.com<br />

STYLIST’S TIP<br />

No time for a<br />

costume change?<br />

A sporty bikini<br />

top does double<br />

duty as a<br />

crop top.<br />

Polyamide elastane bikini,<br />

ZIMMERMANN, $235, visit<br />

zimmermannwear.com<br />

Metallic polyamide elastane swimsuit,<br />

MARIE FRANCE VAN DAMME, $329,<br />

visit mariefrancevandamme.com<br />

Leather bucket bag, MODERN<br />

WEAVING, $515, visit modernweaving.com.<br />

Silk-blend shorts, KIT<br />

AND ACE, $118, visit kitandace.com<br />

WEAR IT WITH<br />

UNDER<br />

$125<br />

WEAR IT WITH<br />

UNDER<br />

$50<br />

Stretch-denim skirt, PACSUN, $40,<br />

visit pacsun.com. Leather sandal,<br />

MICHAEL MICHAEL KORS, $120,<br />

visit michaelkors.com<br />

UNDER<br />

$125<br />

Cotton<br />

dress, LOUP<br />

CHARMANT, $335,<br />

visit loupcharmant<br />

.com. Gold-plated<br />

brass and white<br />

CZ bangles,<br />

all, KENDRA<br />

SCOTT, $110 (for<br />

set of five), visit<br />

kendrascott.com<br />

High-neck swimwear, one-shoulder swimwear, Gottex swimsuit, Norma Kamali swimsuit, and Kit and Ace shorts: Jeff Harris/Studio D (styled by Anita Salerno for R.J. Bennett Represents)<br />

128


HIT<br />

SINGLES<br />

We enlisted a few<br />

of our fave labels<br />

to create cuts and<br />

colors you’ll find<br />

only in ELLE<br />

STYLIST’S TIP<br />

How low can<br />

you go? A<br />

full-coverage<br />

top offsets the<br />

teeniest bikini<br />

bottom.<br />

Polyamide elastane swimsuit,<br />

ARAKS, $325, visit araks.com<br />

Detachable Lycra swimsuit, ALIX,<br />

$250, collection at Club Monaco<br />

boutiques nationwide<br />

UNDER<br />

$100<br />

Spandex-blend swimsuit, GAP, $70,<br />

at Gap stores nationwide<br />

Nylon spandex bikini top, $118,<br />

bottom, $118, both, MIKOH, visit<br />

mikoh.com<br />

Neoprene bikini, LISA MARIE<br />

FERNANDEZ, $395, collection at<br />

net-a-porter.com<br />

Straw and grosgrain tote, EUGENIA<br />

KIM, $495, visit eugeniakim.com<br />

UNDER<br />

$50<br />

Nylon spandex swimsuit, OLD<br />

NAVY, $43, at Old Navy stores<br />

nationwide<br />

Nylon-blend bikini top, $132, bottom,<br />

$178, both, MADE BY DAWN, visit<br />

madebydawn.com<br />

Artisanal woven carryalls will carry you from poolside to party, all summer long<br />

Woven-raffia tote, SOEUR, $128,<br />

visit soeur.fr<br />

Toquilla straw tote, SENSI STUDIO,<br />

$320, collection at avenue32.com<br />

Polyamide Lycra swimsuit,<br />

SOLID & STRIPED, $168, visit<br />

solidandstriped.com<br />

Raffia tote, LOEFFLER RANDALL,<br />

$350, visit loefflerrandall.com<br />

UNDER<br />

$150<br />

Micro-nylon spandex bikini top, $70,<br />

bottom, $57, both, BODY GLOVE,<br />

visit bodyglove.com<br />

Calfskin and natural-fiber tote,<br />

BALENCIAGA, $1,135, at Balenciaga, NYC<br />

All swimwear: Jeff Harris/Studio D (styled by Anita Salerno for R.J. Bennett Represents)<br />

130


BODY ELECTRIC<br />

Highlighter-bright sporty silhouettes fire up ’90s nostalgia<br />

BEAUTY TIP<br />

Water-friendly<br />

and neon-bold,<br />

Milk Makeup Lip<br />

Marker is the<br />

beauty version of<br />

the Body Glove<br />

wet suit.<br />

UNDER<br />

$100<br />

Nylon elastane bikini top, $660, bottom,<br />

$240, both, LA PERLA, at La Perla, NYC<br />

UNDER<br />

$125<br />

Lip Marker in TKO,<br />

MILK MAKEUP, $20,<br />

visit milkmakeup.com<br />

Sandal, BIRKENSTOCK,<br />

$100, visit birkenstock.com<br />

Mesh and nylon rash guard, TOMMY<br />

BAHAMA, $98, visit tommybahama<br />

.com. Nylon spandex bikini bottom,<br />

MOSCHINO, $265 (sold as a set), at<br />

Moschino boutiques nationwide<br />

UNDER<br />

$100<br />

Handwoven leather and plastic bucket bag,<br />

TRUSS, $295, collection at net-a-porter.com<br />

UNDER<br />

$75<br />

Wherever you find yourself, eye-popping denim jackets bring a hint of the beach<br />

UNDER<br />

$50<br />

Denim jacket,<br />

OLD NAVY, $35,<br />

visit oldnavy.com<br />

Nylon elastane swimsuit,<br />

AERIE, $50, at Aerie<br />

stores nationwide<br />

UNDER<br />

$75<br />

Sunglasses, GUESS,<br />

$80, visit guess.com<br />

Stretch-cotton shorts, ROXY,<br />

$50, visit roxy.com<br />

Denim jacket,<br />

J BRAND, $248,<br />

collection at Saks<br />

Fifth Avenue<br />

stores nationwide<br />

UNDER<br />

$175<br />

ALEXANDER WANG<br />

Spandex-blend<br />

jacket, GUESS,<br />

$158, visit<br />

guess.com<br />

Runway: Imaxtree.com; Aerie swimsuit, Tommy Bahama rash guard, and Moschino bikini bottom:<br />

Jeff Harris/Studio D (styled by Anita Salerno for R.J. Bennett Represents)<br />

132


SWIM CLUB<br />

Three new swim labels to know offer minimalist perfection, with a few well-placed frills<br />

Launched: 2014 Based in:<br />

Sydney Vibe: This Aussie<br />

label’s athletic bikinis and<br />

high-neck maillots offer cleanlined<br />

simplicity, plus built-in<br />

SPF 50 protection.<br />

Nylon Lycra bikini,<br />

HER SWIMWEAR, $175,<br />

visit herthelabel.com<br />

Nylon Lycra swimsuit,<br />

HER SWIMWEAR, $190,<br />

visit herthelabel.com<br />

Nylon Lycra bikini,<br />

HER SWIMWEAR, $195,<br />

visit herthelabel.com<br />

Nylon Lycra swimsuit,<br />

HER SWIMWEAR, $195,<br />

visit herthelabel.com<br />

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IN WITH THE NEW<br />

ELLE Fashion Director Samira Nasr on trickle-up style,<br />

fashion’s new hair obsession, and inner (and outer) glow<br />

Nasr and Soleimani<br />

STREET SCENES<br />

Jamel Shabazz, whose book<br />

Sights in the City: New York Street<br />

Photographs (Damiani) comes<br />

out this month, is the original<br />

street-style photographer. Both<br />

a photojournalist and a fashion<br />

photographer, he documented<br />

ordinary people in the ’80s<br />

who were making incredible<br />

style statements, long before<br />

the days of social media. Look<br />

at “Fly Girls” (far right), shot<br />

in downtown Brooklyn, circa<br />

1984: The tights with the opentoe<br />

shoes, the leather minis,<br />

the matching Kangol hats—it<br />

kills me! And it’s a look that’s<br />

relevant all over again, as we<br />

saw on the Marc Jacobs fall<br />

runway (above).<br />

EASY DOES IT<br />

My friend, makeup artist<br />

Romy Soleimani—the genius<br />

behind the enviable glow of<br />

both Cara Delevingne and<br />

Kate Hudson—shares the<br />

four products (shown here)<br />

every woman should own.<br />

Pai Rosehip BioRegenerate<br />

Oil: “I press a little into my<br />

cheeks to hydrate, soothe,<br />

and make me look alive!”<br />

RMS Beauty “Un” Coverup<br />

concealer: “With the<br />

right concealer, you can<br />

skip foundation or tinted<br />

moisturizer. If you have<br />

naturally rosy cheeks, add<br />

concealer around your nose<br />

and chin, and let your skin<br />

shine through.”<br />

Surratt Relevée eyelash<br />

curler: “It opens eyes, even<br />

when you’re wearing no<br />

makeup at all.”<br />

Kevyn Aucoin The Flesh<br />

Tone Lip Pencil (shown<br />

in Hyacinth): “Pencils are<br />

unsung multitaskers—fill<br />

your lips for a natural pout<br />

or press the color into cheeks<br />

for a healthy glow.”<br />

Runway: Imaxtree.com (2); “Fly Girls”: from A Time Before Crack, by Jamel Shabazz (powerHouse Books)<br />

I’m superinspired<br />

by the cornrows we saw at Saint Laurent<br />

for spring and again at Fendi for fall.<br />

For so long, fashion didn’t know what<br />

to do with black hair—it was always<br />

straightened or slicked back. Hairstylist<br />

Shani Crowe (near right), the woman<br />

responsible for Solange’s braided halo<br />

on SNL, has been creating major looks.<br />

Check out her Insta @crowezilla.<br />

SAINT<br />

LAURENT<br />

138<br />

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GALAXY GIRL<br />

Marvel gets an ebullient<br />

(and hilarious) new star<br />

in Pom Klementieff.<br />

By Seth Plattner<br />

When asked who inspired her portrayal<br />

of the classic Marvel comic-book<br />

hero Mantis—a bizarre, buggy humanoid<br />

who can sense people’s emotions<br />

through touch (and is the newest member<br />

of Chris Pratt’s ragtag group of celestial<br />

protectors in this month’s Guardians<br />

of the Galaxy Vol. 2)—Pom Klementieff<br />

has a list at the ready: “A praying mantis,<br />

obviously,” says the 30-year-old<br />

graduate of Paris’s Cours Florent drama<br />

school, who, although born in Quebec<br />

to a French-diplomat father and a Korean<br />

mother, was ultimately raised by<br />

her paternal aunt and uncle after she lost<br />

her father at age five and her mother became<br />

unwell. “Gollum, from The Lord of<br />

the Rings; Leeloo, Milla Jovovich’s character<br />

in The Fifth Element, because she’s<br />

discovering new things in a new world…<br />

oh, and Mr. Burns! From The Simpsons—I<br />

like the way he holds his hands!”<br />

Though Guardians revolves around<br />

constant warring and world-saving (fortunately,<br />

Klementieff was trained in<br />

boxing and Tae Kwon Do before even<br />

auditioning for the movie), it’s the actress’s<br />

offbeat sense of humor that will<br />

be her signature in the Marvel universe.<br />

“Female characters in Marvel films are<br />

usually cool and badass and strong, and<br />

I love that!” says Klementieff, who’s recently<br />

finished filming Avengers: Infinity<br />

War Part I, alongside Robert Downey Jr.,<br />

Chris Evans, Scarlett Johansson, and the<br />

rest of the star-studded superhero gang.<br />

“But Mantis is something different.<br />

She’s childlike. She listens rather than<br />

fights. She’s also weird! I get to be the<br />

total weirdo!” How totally refreshing.<br />

MOVIES,<br />

BOOKS, MUSIC,<br />

AND MORE!<br />

Emma Holly Jones<br />

142


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Helps repair even extreme hair damage in just 3 minutes.


LAST SUPPER<br />

Things will never be the same between two brothers and their wives after<br />

an elaborate gourmet repast that’s poisoned by proliferating secrets and<br />

misunderstandings in The Dinner. By Ben Dickinson<br />

“Families work together; they<br />

bury the ugly stuff.” At least as<br />

much aspirational as it is factual,<br />

that declaration—uttered<br />

sotto voce toward the end of The<br />

Dinner—cuts to the heart of this<br />

bristlingly intelligent, idiosyncratic,<br />

and sinuously suspenseful<br />

film. Is it a thriller? An Oedipallytinged<br />

drama? A midnight-dark<br />

comedy of manners? It’s all of the<br />

above, and more.<br />

Writer-director Oren Moverman<br />

adapted the international<br />

best-seller by Dutch novelist Herman<br />

Koch, published in the U.S.<br />

in 2013, brilliantly converting it<br />

from its European mise-en-scène<br />

into a thoroughly American fable.<br />

Moverman, who made the highly<br />

regarded 2009 Iraq War drama<br />

The Messenger and cowrote the<br />

intricate script for 2014’s Love &<br />

Mercy, the biopic about the Beach<br />

Boys’ Brian Wilson, is an eclectic<br />

talent whose star is rising. In 2014,<br />

he also made Time Out of Mind<br />

Gere<br />

(the avant-garde movie equivalent<br />

of ambient music), starring<br />

Richard Gere as a suddenly homeless<br />

and rudderless New Yorker.<br />

Moverman knows every crag and<br />

angle of Gere’s elegantly aging<br />

face, and in The Dinner, he has<br />

Gere playing Stan Lohman, a congressman<br />

of resplendent charm<br />

(well, and smarm) who’s now<br />

campaigning for a governorship.<br />

You’ll not find a more unctuous<br />

yet irresistible politico, one who<br />

finds himself hopelessly and addictively<br />

tethered to the smartphone<br />

borne by his ever-hovering<br />

assistant, Nina (a savvy, sometimes<br />

smirking Adepero Oduye).<br />

First, though, we meet Stan’s<br />

younger brother, Paul (the brilliant<br />

Steve Coogan), a former<br />

high school history teacher who’s<br />

obsessed, in a flagrantly politically<br />

correct way, with our nation’s<br />

rampant inequality, the broken<br />

promise of the Civil War and<br />

Emancipation, and the legacy of<br />

Native American genocide. He’s a<br />

charismatic rager who can scarcely<br />

bring himself to go to dinner<br />

with Stan at an ultra–haute cuisine<br />

restaurant that he knows he’ll despise;<br />

we’re privy to what appears<br />

to be a marital ritual as his Earth-<br />

Motherly wife, Claire (a glowing<br />

Hall and<br />

Linney<br />

Laura Linney), talks him down in<br />

their bedroom and coaxes him to<br />

go out. They strike us as both sympathetic<br />

and symbiotic.<br />

The restaurant, a dimly lit den<br />

of clubby luxury, indeed turns out<br />

to be a surpassingly inappropriate<br />

place for them to meet with Stan<br />

and his glam new wife, Katelyn<br />

(the fab Rebecca Hall—for whom,<br />

more roles like this, please!). Because<br />

it turns out that, amid all<br />

the ridiculous ceremony of food<br />

fetishism (“These winter roots<br />

were grown right here in our garden!”)<br />

and constant interruptions<br />

by Nina bearing frantic communications<br />

from Washington, these<br />

two couples have a deadly serious<br />

crisis to chew over and somehow<br />

try to resolve: Their two teenage<br />

sons have recently done something<br />

tragically bad but have not<br />

been found out—but a third son,<br />

whom Stan adopted from Kenya,<br />

appears to be on the verge of<br />

ratting on them. This becomes<br />

the fulcrum of an almost alchemical<br />

alteration of our assumptions<br />

about these four people, and the<br />

last half hour of The Dinner unfolds<br />

like a vehicle headed straight<br />

for a concrete bridge abutment at<br />

ever-increasing velocity. What is<br />

it, exactly? Something to behold.<br />

UNBURIED SECRETS<br />

In HBO’s The Immortal<br />

Life of Henrietta<br />

Lacks, a film based on<br />

Rebecca Skloot’s 2010<br />

nonfiction best-seller,<br />

a greenhorn reporter<br />

chases a medical<br />

saga deep into the<br />

heart of a Baltimore<br />

family. A biopsy from<br />

Henrietta Lacks<br />

(Hamilton’s Renée<br />

Elise Goldsberry), who<br />

died of cervical cancer<br />

in 1951, grew into a<br />

line of cells that has<br />

transformed medical<br />

research worldwide.<br />

When Skloot (Rose<br />

Byrne) approaches<br />

the troubled Deborah<br />

Lacks (Oprah<br />

Winfrey) and her<br />

siblings about their<br />

mother’s life and<br />

scientific legacy, she<br />

sets off a spectacular<br />

chain reaction<br />

involving medical<br />

ethics, race, and<br />

class—and, now, a<br />

must-see TV event<br />

(April 22).—B.D.<br />

Winfrey<br />

and<br />

Byrne<br />

Clockwise from bottom left: courtesy of the Orchard (2); Quantrell D. Colbert/HBO<br />

144


DIRECTOR’S SPOTLIGHT<br />

ABOUT<br />

A GIRL<br />

A charismatic child, a heinous<br />

unsolved crime, a bewildered<br />

community: all ingredients<br />

for a bewitching documentary<br />

Green<br />

A whole litter of little blond girls dressed<br />

in red, white, and blue costumes spills<br />

boisterously forward from camera to stage<br />

in an audition for the role of JonBenét Ramsey;<br />

you’d be hard-pressed to pick the real<br />

JonBenét out of the lineup were she actually<br />

there. Talk about a through-the-lookingglass<br />

moment: From the first scene of Casting<br />

JonBenet, in theaters and on Netflix this<br />

month, it’s clear that Aussie documentarian<br />

Kitty Green knows how to take you there.<br />

“There” would also be Boulder, Colorado,<br />

where Ramsey, a six-year-old child-beautypageant<br />

star, was murdered in her home on<br />

Christmas night in 1996—an infamous case<br />

that has never been solved and may very well<br />

stay that way.<br />

Does this sound like yet another schlocky<br />

cable-TV exposé about the case? It’s not; in<br />

fact, the movie is almost all about the casting<br />

process. And it got<br />

uniformly adulatory reviews<br />

at Sundance and, at<br />

this writing, enjoys a 100 percent “fresh”<br />

critics’ rating on rottentomatoes.com. Green<br />

is after something far removed from a rehash<br />

of the sordid and timeworn details. “How do<br />

you make sense of senseless horror and tragedy?<br />

That was always our fascination,” Green<br />

says. She trawled the Boulder area with open<br />

casting calls for locals, ranging from dinnertheater<br />

veterans to folks just off the street,<br />

to play the central roles—JonBenét’s brother<br />

and parents and a few other prominent suspects—in<br />

reenactments of what might have<br />

happened that mysterious night. Then she<br />

interviewed them about their memories and<br />

theories about the case and how it’s affected<br />

their lives. “We were more interested in the<br />

cultural obsession, the mythology and legacy<br />

Casting<br />

JonBenet’s<br />

star lineup<br />

of Ramsey,” she adds, “than in the case itself.”<br />

When did Green know for sure that she’d<br />

struck documentary gold? “I think we cast<br />

the Santa Clauses first,” she recalls. (For a<br />

time, a chief suspect in the case was a neighbor<br />

of the Ramseys who moonlighted yearly<br />

as Santa Claus.) “We had them in a Barca-<br />

Lounger, and once they sat down, they just<br />

wouldn’t stop talking. It was actually cathartic,<br />

or therapeutic, I think, to talk through<br />

not only their impressions of this tragedy but<br />

also their own personal narratives and connections<br />

to the case.” Throughout the film,<br />

auditioners blurt out unexpected and revealing<br />

glimpses of themselves. It soon becomes<br />

clear that we’re beholding, in microcosm, the<br />

things that people tell themselves to push<br />

away the darkness and meaninglessness of<br />

what’s stubbornly unknowable and get on<br />

with their lives.—B.D.<br />

TRUST US<br />

This month: priests and nuns,<br />

radical writers and lovers<br />

If this grabs you: “ ‘Before<br />

they allowed your father<br />

to be a priest,’ my mother<br />

tells me, ‘they made me take<br />

the Psychopath Test. You<br />

know, a priest can’t have a<br />

psychopath wife, it would<br />

bring disgrace,’ ” you’ll<br />

be wowed by Patricia<br />

Lockwood’s darkly<br />

profane and poetic<br />

memoir, Priestdaddy<br />

(Riverhead), about<br />

growing up as the<br />

daughter of a Catholic<br />

priest. Lockwood, a<br />

taboo-breaking doyenne<br />

of the Twitterverse<br />

whose book of<br />

poetry Motherland<br />

Fatherland Homelandsexuals<br />

hit it big in<br />

2014, describes family<br />

photo-sifting night:<br />

“My father in a tight,<br />

appalling sailor suit.<br />

My father dressed as<br />

a pro-life Dracula. My<br />

father wearing a Speedo<br />

at the lapping edge<br />

of a picturesque lake,<br />

between two buff<br />

buttocky dunes.”<br />

If you want to read the<br />

work of Canada’s literary<br />

It Girl, check out writer<br />

Durga Chew-Bose’s<br />

essay collection, Too<br />

Much and Not the<br />

Mood (FSG). The<br />

first (and best) piece,<br />

“Heart Museum,”<br />

is a fluid, almost<br />

dreamlike disquisition<br />

on finding one’s voice.<br />

She writes, “Groping<br />

through the dark is…<br />

what writing consists<br />

of anyway. Working<br />

through and feeling<br />

around the shadows<br />

of an idea. Getting<br />

pricked. Cursing<br />

purity. Threshing<br />

out. Scuffing up and<br />

peeling away. Feral<br />

rearranging. Letting<br />

form ferment.”<br />

If you’re ripe for a<br />

presummer blockbuster<br />

that delivers an<br />

engrossing family drama<br />

with feisty humor and<br />

transformative tough<br />

love, put Saints for All<br />

Occasions (Knopf),<br />

J. Courtney<br />

Sullivan’s latest<br />

New England–set<br />

saga (she also<br />

wrote Maine and<br />

Commencement) on<br />

your must-read list.<br />

This novel’s about<br />

two very different<br />

sisters—one destined<br />

to become a matriarch,<br />

the other a<br />

cloistered nun.<br />

If you’re keen for a<br />

fresh take on the life<br />

and work of beloved<br />

writer Jane Austen, UK<br />

biographer Helena<br />

Kelly’s Jane Austen,<br />

the Secret Radical<br />

(Knopf) reveals the<br />

subversive rebel soul<br />

behind such towering<br />

classics as Sense and<br />

Sensibility, Pride and<br />

Prejudice, and Mansfield<br />

Park. Good timing!<br />

Austen’s pensive,<br />

intelligent face, haloed<br />

by her Regency-era<br />

cap, will grace the<br />

Bank of England’s<br />

new 10-pound note (it<br />

debuts in September).<br />

If you’re at the end of your<br />

relationship rope, reach<br />

for Radical Acceptance:<br />

The Secret to Happy,<br />

Lasting Love (Atria<br />

Books) by YourTango<br />

.com CEO and founder<br />

Andrea Miller: a thinky,<br />

shrinky, five-step guide<br />

to loving by embracing,<br />

as Miller’s written, “the<br />

darkness, the murkiness,<br />

the shadows of<br />

a relationship and the<br />

people in it.”<br />

—Lisa Shea<br />

From top left: Gregory Erdstein; courtesy of Netflix<br />

146


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LOVE AND<br />

IDENTITY<br />

A Jewish boy, a Burmese beauty,<br />

and the WWII savagery they<br />

endure make for an epic roman<br />

à clef. By Keziah Weir<br />

At one point in Charmaine Craig’s<br />

emotionally complex second novel,<br />

Miss Burma (Grove Press), married<br />

couple Khin and Benny are reunited<br />

after nearly two years of separation.<br />

“Astonishing,” Benny thinks, facing his wife,<br />

“how one could go from absolute intimacy<br />

to utter estrangement.” This notion—of<br />

human closeness and alienation and what<br />

constitutes each—is central to Craig’s novel,<br />

which follows a mixed-race couple and their<br />

children living in racially charged Burma<br />

between 1926 and 1965. Miss Burma is largely<br />

based on the incredible true story of the<br />

author’s own famous mother, Louisa Charmaine<br />

Benson Craig—who, at 15, became<br />

Burma’s first Miss Universe contestant and<br />

went on to marry an army commander, assuming<br />

her husband’s military duties at age<br />

24, upon his assassination.<br />

Benny, a seven-year-old Jewish boy living<br />

in Rangoon (then still under British rule),<br />

is orphaned and shipped off to Calcutta to<br />

live with his aunts, a pair of rabbi’s daughters.<br />

But it’s the words of Saint Augustine<br />

that get to him: “God loves each of us, as if<br />

there were only one of us.” Returning as a<br />

young man to Burma, Benny meets Khin,<br />

an 18-year-old girl belonging to the country’s<br />

tyrannized ethnic minority, the Karen.<br />

Benny has all but forgotten his Burmese,<br />

and Khin understands only a few words of<br />

English, but they marry and begin an epic,<br />

complicated love story that unfurls just as<br />

the world begins to shudder with the horrors<br />

of World War II. The couple are forced to<br />

make impossible choices as Burma becomes<br />

increasingly dangerous for Khin, as a Karen;<br />

for Benny, who is often misidentified as a<br />

British spy; and for their children.<br />

Craig (incidentally, a former actress who<br />

served as a model for Disney’s Pocahontas)<br />

masterfully renders the human condition in<br />

matters micro and vast. And as Benny and<br />

Khin’s story opens up to include the desires<br />

and fears of their strikingly beautiful, fiery<br />

daughter Louisa, she proves to be a singular<br />

force, a combined product of her parents’<br />

separate strengths that reveals the power in<br />

individual perseverance, even in the face of<br />

torture and slaughter.<br />

Like many of the best books, Miss Burma<br />

feels rooted in its time and place, while also<br />

laying bare timeless questions of loyalty,<br />

infidelity, patriotism, and identity—not to<br />

mention the globally perpetuated unfair<br />

treatment of women. It also raises one particularly<br />

resonant concern: What does it<br />

take to shake us out of complacency?<br />

THE BIG PICTURE<br />

Kristen Radtke’s graphic memoir is a cool, capacious<br />

telling of her life. By Lisa Shea<br />

Writer and illustrator Kristen<br />

Radtke has an insatiable attraction<br />

to abandoned places. She’s<br />

wandered the hollowed-out<br />

cities of America’s Rust Belt,<br />

roamed a lava-buried Icelandic<br />

village, visited vacated mining<br />

towns in Colorado, and scoured<br />

the former U.S. military base<br />

on the Philippine island of Corregidor.<br />

These and other trips to<br />

landscapes of aftermath, ruin,<br />

and decay gave the Green Bay,<br />

Wisconsin, native the courage<br />

she needed to process loss and<br />

past romantic entanglements,<br />

and to come to grips with her<br />

family’s scary medical history,<br />

forging all of it into her brilliant<br />

graphic memoir, Imagine Wanting<br />

Only This (Pantheon Books).<br />

The book is a family drama,<br />

youthful romance, obsessive<br />

adventure, and karmic inqui-<br />

ry wrapped in a coming-of-age<br />

tale. It’s her thumbnail history<br />

of left-behind people and places,<br />

and a wondrous panel-by-panel<br />

archive of the interplay between<br />

her rapacious intellect and her<br />

expansive imagination.<br />

Before the book, which took<br />

“forever” to complete, the 29-<br />

year-old Radtke says, “I wasted<br />

a lot of time writing about exboyfriends.”<br />

After art school at<br />

Chicago’s Columbia College, an<br />

MFA in nonfiction at the University<br />

of Iowa, and a stay in<br />

Milan, Radtke struggled, but “I<br />

was always writing about abandoned<br />

places, about some form<br />

of aftermath, the place left after<br />

the action,” she says. She’s consumed<br />

with the question of how<br />

“something that is can become,<br />

very suddenly, something that<br />

isn’t.” A striking full-page panel<br />

of an abandoned church in<br />

downtown Gary, Indiana, that<br />

Radtke and a boyfriend explored<br />

presages a later trip the artist<br />

made to Southeast Asia seeking<br />

out the ruins at Angkor Wat,<br />

the gilded stupas in Myanmar,<br />

and the killing fields of Cambodia.<br />

Twice these terse words<br />

accompany the cartoonish yet<br />

vividly animated drawings that<br />

drive the memoir:<br />

“We forget<br />

that everything will become no<br />

longer ours.” In places, the commingled<br />

pictorial and written<br />

narrative flows like a film, like<br />

a dreamscape, like the river of<br />

time itself. It’s Radtke’s quietly<br />

erudite, observant language<br />

(“The candles outside temples<br />

in Laos that looked just like the<br />

ones we used to light for my<br />

grandmother”) that grounds her<br />

intricate and dramatic drawings.<br />

But maps, photographs, medical<br />

charts, newspaper clippings, and<br />

a free-floating Sharpie embedded<br />

in the almost 300-page book<br />

enhance the storytelling as they<br />

surprise and delight.<br />

Radtke is mindful of women<br />

comic artists, such as Fun<br />

Home’s Alison Bechdel<br />

and Persepolis’s Marjane<br />

Satrapi. On the last page<br />

of Imagine, this acknowledgment<br />

appears: “Every<br />

woman who has ever put<br />

a comic into the world has<br />

made it a little more possible<br />

for me to do so.”<br />

148


Smith: Getty Images; LuPone and Ebersole: Joan Marcus<br />

PIONEER<br />

WOMAN<br />

How Caitlyn Smith bucked the<br />

country music establishment<br />

to build her long-overdue<br />

breakthrough. By Dan Hyman<br />

When it came time for singer-songwriter<br />

Caitlyn Smith to sign her first record<br />

deal, the 30-year-old—who’d been kicking<br />

around Nashville for 15 years, writing hits<br />

for everyone from Dolly Parton (“You Can’t<br />

Make Old Friends”) to Meghan Trainor<br />

(“Like I’m Gonna Lose You”)—wasn’t in a<br />

glitzy Music Row boardroom but rather on<br />

her couch, wearing “mom yoga pants,” with<br />

her six-month-old son, Thomas (whom she<br />

had with her husband, fellow musician<br />

Rollie Gaalswyk), hysterically crying on her<br />

lap. “It’s not how I pictured it!” says Smith,<br />

now with Monument Records and set to release<br />

her first full-length album, Starfire,<br />

this month. “But honestly, it couldn’t have<br />

been more perfect and beautiful.”<br />

A small-town Minnesota native, Smith had<br />

been jockeying for a solo career for years.<br />

She took her parents up on an offer to use her<br />

college-fund money to record her first album<br />

and, while still in high school, started making<br />

monthly trips to Nashville to attract label<br />

attention. For the past decade, however,<br />

Smith, like many female artists looking for<br />

their break, has had to fight biases that have<br />

long plagued women in Music City: They’re<br />

seen as either a sex symbol or just another talented<br />

songwriter. “Every time I’d try to get<br />

a record deal or shoot for country<br />

radio, it just felt slightly contrived,”<br />

she says. That all changed when,<br />

on the heels of artists like Kacey<br />

Musgraves, Maren Morris, and<br />

Mickey Guyton, who were starting<br />

to forge a new path for female talent,<br />

Smith decided to release her<br />

music independently, leading to<br />

2016’s breakout EP, Starfire. The<br />

album debuted at number one on<br />

the iTunes singer-songwriter chart<br />

and at last revealed, says Smith,<br />

“who I am at the core”: a versatile,<br />

classic-country-loving vocalist<br />

whose songs mix acoustic Americana<br />

with gritty blues swagger and<br />

punchy pop hooks.<br />

On the full-length Starfire, it’s<br />

that same mix of tender (“Tacoma”),<br />

tough (“Contact High”), and occasionally<br />

silly (“Let’s spin a couple of<br />

45s and order some Chinese takeout /…I<br />

couldn’t think of a better way to spend my<br />

Friday night,” she sings on the sweet ballad<br />

“Cheap Date”) that illuminates what<br />

rallied her grassroots fan base in the first<br />

place: a sense of authenticity in a universe<br />

of label-packaged product. “Fans who discover<br />

your music in that way feel even more<br />

inclined to back you,” says Morris—and she<br />

would know. Before winning a 2017 Best<br />

Country Solo Performance Grammy for her<br />

first single, “My Church,” Morris racked up<br />

supporters by self-releasing the song to Spotify,<br />

reaping millions of streams and sparking<br />

a bidding war among Nashville’s top labels<br />

(she ultimately signed with Sony Music<br />

Nashville). Fans appreciate, she says, that<br />

the work’s “not being paid for or pushed in<br />

their faces.” While female country artists<br />

may just now be wising up to the strategy,<br />

it’s a lesson that rap and hip-hop have understood<br />

for years, with artists like Soulja<br />

Boy, A$AP Rocky, and, more recently, Lil<br />

Yachty and Migos leveraging the Internet<br />

for a following—and then forcing the industry<br />

to play catch-up.<br />

“When I think of my passed-over peers,<br />

maybe they weren’t 6'3" or a supermodel, so<br />

they weren’t getting deals,” says Smith, who<br />

cofounded the quarterly “Girls of Nashville”<br />

showcase to highlight undiscovered female<br />

talent. “It’s ridiculous, but I think it’s stirred<br />

a lot of women. We’re finally like, ‘Okay,<br />

whatever! You aren’t going to sign me? Fine.<br />

I’m just going to do my own thing.’ And to finally<br />

put me out there, the unedited version,<br />

and have people love it—it’s a confirmation<br />

that I’m on the right path.”<br />

LIPSTICK JUNGLE<br />

While Jessica Lange and Susan Sarandon<br />

duke it out on TV as Joan Crawford and Bette<br />

Davis, respectively, in the hit FX drama Feud,<br />

Patti LuPone and Christine Ebersole are<br />

bringing to life another historic tête-à-tête in<br />

the Broadway musical War Paint. The Tonywinning<br />

legends enact the storied rivalry<br />

between Helena Rubinstein (LuPone) and<br />

Elizabeth Arden (Ebersole), one that made both<br />

women boundary-pushing beauty moguls and<br />

renowned figures of female power. To salute that<br />

legacy, LuPone and Ebersole weigh in on some<br />

pressing questions—just in time for our May<br />

Beauty Issue.—Seth Plattner<br />

What hardships are<br />

women still dealing<br />

with that Helena and<br />

Elizabeth dealt with<br />

60 years ago?<br />

Patti LuPone:<br />

Prejudice. Pay<br />

equality. Equality.<br />

Men suck—except for<br />

my husband, my son,<br />

and my men friends.<br />

Christine Ebersole:<br />

Aging gracefully.<br />

In terms of rivalry,<br />

what can healthy<br />

opposition teach us?<br />

PL: Acceptance.<br />

CE: That rivalry can<br />

inspire us.<br />

Is there still a<br />

Broadway role you<br />

wish you could play?<br />

PL: Always [Gypsy’s]<br />

Madame Rose.<br />

As long as I have<br />

breath, I’d love to<br />

play Madame Rose<br />

again.<br />

CE: The part of<br />

Mame, but this time<br />

on Broadway.<br />

Who’s a new<br />

Broadway star who<br />

inspires you?<br />

PL: Annaleigh<br />

Ashford, Lena Hall,<br />

Cristin Milioti, Denée<br />

Benton.<br />

CE: Cynthia Erivo.<br />

LuPone<br />

She’s brilliant.<br />

What’s your one<br />

weird but faithful<br />

beauty ritual?<br />

PL: Montepulciano<br />

mud on my face.<br />

CE: Beyond<br />

moisturizing, I don’t<br />

have any rituals.<br />

But I’m open to<br />

suggestions!<br />

What’s currently in<br />

your makeup bag?<br />

PL: La Perla for the<br />

lips, Elizabeth Arden<br />

cream blush and<br />

lip protectant, plus<br />

mascara, lip gloss,<br />

Tylenol, toothpicks,<br />

and Big Red gum.<br />

CE: Elizabeth<br />

Arden cream blush<br />

and gloss, hand<br />

moisturizer, and<br />

Olbas natural nasal<br />

inhaler—it’s better<br />

than drugs.<br />

Finish this sentence:<br />

Beauty is ____.<br />

PL: Tough work.<br />

CE: As beauty does.<br />

What’s the one thing<br />

women need to do to<br />

transform the world?<br />

PL: Demand their<br />

place—which is not<br />

equal, but superior.<br />

CE: Strive for<br />

authenticity.<br />

Ebersole


EDITOR’S TIP<br />

To pamper<br />

extensions, avoid<br />

sulfate-based<br />

shampoos and<br />

use your fingers<br />

(not a brush) to<br />

detangle.<br />

Jan Welters/Trunk Archive<br />

ALTERED<br />

STATES<br />

From mile-long hair extensions<br />

that only lasted for two weeks to<br />

an Instagram-esque brow tattoo<br />

that may (yikes!) stick around<br />

several years, ELLE editors testdrive<br />

top beauty transformations,<br />

both big and small.<br />

EDITED BY EMILY DOUGHERTY<br />

151


THE BOMBSHELL REBOOT<br />

X FACTOR<br />

Cotton Codinha goes from<br />

gamine to glam<br />

After a dramatic haircut last fall that left<br />

my lob a ’90s-inspired mullet, I found<br />

myself settling into a uniform of oversize<br />

sweaters, flats, and tinted lip balms. After<br />

receiving no less than three compliments<br />

on my “androgynous style” in one month,<br />

I started to find myself gazing at vintage<br />

photos of Brigitte Bardot in her cinched<br />

waists and Scarlett Johansson vamping for<br />

the camera. “How does that feel?” I wondered.<br />

And so began an exploration into<br />

embodying the bombshell.<br />

The first step in achieving bombshell-dom<br />

is figuring out exactly what a bombshell<br />

is, especially in 2017. For almost 80 years,<br />

the bombshell has been blond, comicbook<br />

curvy, and magnetic. A bombshell is<br />

more than hot: A hot girl can wear a bikini;<br />

a bombshell can make you buy stock in<br />

the brand and move to the beach. And now<br />

she’s a contradiction: Emily Ratajkowski,<br />

with her “feminist af” T-shirt pulled taut<br />

across her famous breasts; Jemima Kirke,<br />

with her fallen-angel face and silk slipdresses<br />

exposing a fringe of armpit hair; Amber<br />

Rose, with her fembot-perfect features and<br />

shaved-platinum head. “I don’t even know<br />

if it’s a ‘look’ anymore,” says a friend. “Or<br />

rather, yes, it’s about being a babe, but it’s<br />

less about getting hit on than about telling<br />

the guy who’s hitting on you a massively<br />

dirty joke and then laughing because you’ve<br />

made him uncomfortable.”<br />

When it comes to that bombshell x factor,<br />

I’m beginning to conclude that either you’ve<br />

got it or you don’t, when, at a party for Sexy<br />

Hair’s new shampoo, I’m treated to a full set<br />

of waist-grazing clip-ons and an over-thetop,<br />

costume-y candy-red lip. I snap a selfie<br />

for my feed, with the caption “So this is<br />

happening.” The next morning, I wake up to<br />

three DMs, from men I have either not spoken<br />

to in years or never spoken to at all, on<br />

the same theme: “You’re so pretty.” Maybe<br />

there is something to this.<br />

The transformation is fairly life-disruptive:<br />

I need to enlist a whole army of helpers. I<br />

start with nails. Take a look at Margot Robbie’s<br />

perfectly tapered ring finger flipping<br />

off the Instagram world or Rihanna’s everchanging<br />

experimentation with length and<br />

color: Nails are Bombshell 101, and the more<br />

“I don’t work with my hands,” the better.<br />

The pros at NYC nail salon Valley talk me<br />

down from acrylics to gel extensions, which<br />

are very similar to press-ons but are semipermanent,<br />

tailor-fit, and attached with<br />

industrial-strength glue. Once the plastic<br />

nail topper is applied and sculpted (long stiletto<br />

shape for me, please!), it’s coated with a<br />

pale gray-pink gel. My fingers immediately<br />

become exclusively ornamental—the nails<br />

make it impossible to type. Four days later, I<br />

lose one when I try to button my jeans.<br />

Next stop: lashes. Soul Lee of Beautiful<br />

Soul Makeup Studio (her clients include Zoë<br />

Kravitz and Chrissy Teigen) is the ne plus<br />

ultra for glamorous faux lashes, which she<br />

fastidiously trims individually to make<br />

wearable (I’ve already lost my sense of<br />

touch; I’d like to keep my sight). I carve out<br />

two hours, and Lee gently affixes 150 synthetic<br />

and silk lashes as I lie back with my<br />

eyes closed. My rise from the treatment<br />

table to open my fluttering lids is so Disney<br />

princess, it’s almost embarrassing. The<br />

effect is like real-life Facetune, and with<br />

the makeover I have planned, I’ll be more<br />

Jessica Rabbit than Belle. Soul warns me to<br />

avoid oils, sleeping on my side, or pointing<br />

my lashes directly under the shower stream.<br />

Now, the hair! After my episode with clipons,<br />

I know that Sports Illustrated–model hair<br />

helps, but I’m dubious it can look natural. I<br />

enlist Joseph Maine of Serge Normant at John<br />

Frieda salon, who squeezes me in between<br />

Katy Perry at the Grammys and Kate Mc-<br />

Kinnon at the Oscars. He applies one-and-ahalf-inch<br />

hair extensions all over my head in<br />

a bricklaying pattern to keep the volume uniform<br />

and to obscure my own strands, then<br />

chops my hair to armpit length, adding sexy<br />

rock-chick layers.<br />

Then, thanks to a consult with ELLE fashion<br />

editor Yashua Simmons, I embark on a<br />

mission to acquire the clothes of a young<br />

Kardashian. My lips are painted vermilion<br />

24/7, my eyelids and cheekbones are tacky<br />

with gloss, I’m in a constant low-grade panic<br />

that my hair extensions are showing—and<br />

I have a weekend-long date with a guy I’ve<br />

been seeing. He travels for work, so he hasn’t<br />

seen the inch-by-inch transformation. I warn<br />

him about the extensions but leave the rest<br />

to be discovered as the nature of the experiment<br />

unfolds. Feeling a little like a Victoria’s<br />

Secret Angel, I strut up to him in my very best<br />

From left: Getty Images (2); Matt Baron/Rex/Shutterstock<br />

152


ombshell travel gear—crop top and Levi’s,<br />

naturally—and bat my lashes. He goes to kiss<br />

me hello and…his hand has nowhere to land.<br />

The nape of my neck? I flinch away; the tapes<br />

are very stiff there. The side of my face? Fingers<br />

start to creep right into where the extensions<br />

are more layered. I sigh deeply and<br />

steer his hand to my waist. I had anticipated<br />

tactile, bouncy hair as the ultimate romantic<br />

accessory, so I’m the truly disappointed<br />

one. He assures me he likes my hair both<br />

long and short (good answer!), but I clock a<br />

wince when I touch him with my dramatic<br />

manicure. The last day, another nail pings to<br />

the floor as I put on my pants (what do these<br />

girls wear that doesn’t require fastening?),<br />

and I am grateful for the singular dexterity<br />

I’ll have with that ravaged finger.<br />

Back at home, a friend and I take my new<br />

look out for a spin at Mr. Fong’s downtown,<br />

a fashionable boîte that’s close enough to my<br />

apartment for me to saunter there in heels.<br />

I wear my very best off-the-shoulder sheer<br />

BEFORE<br />

Wolford bodysuit (undergarments are<br />

for prudes) under tight vintage Levi’s<br />

rolled to show the slightest bit of wanton<br />

ankle and a whole lot of stiletto—<br />

plus a fire-red lip, piles of mascara,<br />

and a face full of gloss. My friend and<br />

I swan in, awaiting collective gasps,<br />

only to hear…nothing. “Look at that<br />

girl at the bar,” points out my pal helpfully.<br />

“She’s wearing less than you<br />

are.” We order, I flip my hair a few<br />

times, make my best doe eyes, and feel<br />

so incredibly…basic. My body hurts, I<br />

feel untouchable, I haven’t made contact with<br />

my own scalp in weeks, and my clothes, as<br />

Cher Horowitz would say, are binding.<br />

The next day, I wrench off the seven remaining<br />

nails. (Pro tip: The destruction to<br />

one’s natural nails is avoidable with salon removal.)<br />

Maine kindly fits me in to scrape off<br />

the hair extensions well ahead of schedule. I<br />

lovingly brush the lashes and pray they never<br />

leave me. That night, I dress like myself,<br />

The author, preoverhaul<br />

(below<br />

left), and at full<br />

volume (right)<br />

but the bombshell formula hasn’t quite left<br />

me. I pair a worn-in jean with a shrunken<br />

sweater and keep a bitten red lip. Caught up<br />

in telling a story at a party, I find myself with<br />

the undivided attention of two men who<br />

compete throughout dinner for my conversation.<br />

Each tails me to the next locale. My<br />

friend rolls her eyes when they both lurch to<br />

grab my bar tab. The best part? I snorted my<br />

beer, laughing at my own dirty joke.<br />

AFTER<br />

THE CLAY STATION<br />

PLAYING<br />

DIRTY<br />

Sayonara, soap! Keziah<br />

Weir learns the key to<br />

clear skin might just be<br />

a little dirt<br />

I have cranky skin (sensitive,<br />

prone to tantrums), and over the<br />

years, I’ve tried all manner of<br />

soaps and tonics and leave-ons<br />

aimed at calming it down and<br />

clearing it up, always favoring the<br />

more extreme formulas strong<br />

enough, so I thought, to snuff<br />

out all the oil and dirt clogging it<br />

up. Until two months ago, when<br />

I spoke to Manhattan-based<br />

dermatologist Joshua Zeichner,<br />

MD, and my skin-care worldview<br />

was shattered. “Acne doesn’t<br />

mean you’re dirty,” Zeichner<br />

told me. “People who wash their<br />

skin regularly may break out,<br />

and people who don’t may have<br />

clear skin.” And then the kicker:<br />

“Overwashing may disrupt the<br />

skin barrier.” In other words,<br />

not only had I not been solving<br />

the problem, I may have been<br />

causing it.<br />

And dirt, long considered my<br />

foe, might actually be my greatest<br />

ally. Specifically, dirt’s electrically<br />

charged component—clay—<br />

which, as Zeichner explained,<br />

combats excess oil and draws<br />

out impurities (e.g., inflammationcausing<br />

excess sebum) without<br />

stripping the skin of moisture<br />

completely. Clay as cleanser isn’t<br />

anything new—Cleopatra is said<br />

to have maintained her poreless<br />

complexion with the help of whiteclay<br />

masks—but it’s new to me: The<br />

first standouts in my experiment<br />

are Fresh’s Umbrian Clay, a nononsense<br />

gunk-extractor mask,<br />

and Borghese Fango Delicato<br />

Active Mud for Delicate Skin, a<br />

silky, seafoam-colored concoction<br />

fit for a mermaid. While slathering<br />

the former on my oily T-zone and<br />

the latter on my more delicate<br />

décolletage, I’m struck by how<br />

natural—and almost spiritual—it<br />

feels to cover myself in mud.<br />

Perhaps it’s no coincidence that<br />

ancient civilizations, from the<br />

Incans to the Greeks, theorized<br />

that a creator deity fashioned<br />

human beings out of glorified<br />

dirt. (It’s a claim that a group of<br />

scientists at Cornell all but backed<br />

up in 2013, when they found that<br />

clay can act as an incubator for<br />

DNA and the other building blocks<br />

of life.) Better yet, the stuff actually<br />

worked: My windburned skin was<br />

less ruddy and softer to the touch.<br />

Now hooked, I consult Yael<br />

Alkalay, founder of skin-care<br />

brand Red Flower. A decade ago,<br />

Alkalay launched her hammam<br />

set, a clay-centric line partially<br />

inspired by visits to Turkish and<br />

Moroccan bathhouses that left<br />

her with a “feeling of lightness<br />

and renewal.” I have a similar<br />

reaction the first time I sluice<br />

myself down with her Moroccan<br />

Mint Tea Silt Purifier body wash;<br />

paint myself from hairline to pinkie<br />

toe in a thin layer of Jasmine Rose<br />

Rhassoul Clay combined with a<br />

capful of apple cider vinegar (to<br />

balance out the clay’s alkaline<br />

base); dollop L’Oréal Paris Hair<br />

Expert Extraordinary Clay Pre-<br />

Shampoo Mask on my scalp; and<br />

then soak in the bath for an hour.<br />

The next morning, the Rhassoul<br />

Clay has significantly reduced<br />

a painful cystic breakout on my<br />

jawline (brought on, I think, from<br />

forgetting to heed Zeichner’s<br />

warning about overcleansing),<br />

and by the next evening, my oilprone<br />

roots still look as if they’ve<br />

been freshly shampooed. As my<br />

new favorite saying goes, a little<br />

dirt don’t hurt.<br />

M U D H O N E Y S 1. THE DIRT Natural Toothpaste. 2. BORGHESE Fango Delicato<br />

Active Mud for Delicate Skin. 3. FRESH Umbrian Clay Purifying Mask. 4.<br />

SKINCEUTICALS Clarifying Clay Masque. 5. L’ORÉAL PARIS Red Algae Exfoliate<br />

and Refine Mask. 6. YES TO Tomatoes Clear Skin DIY Powder-to-Clay Mask.<br />

From top: Frances F. Denny (2); Devon Jarvis/Studio D (6)<br />

1 2 3 4 5<br />

6<br />

154


#PURECLAYYOURWAY<br />

BECAUSE YOU’RE WORTH IT ṬM<br />

LOREALPARISUSA.COM/PURECLAY<br />

©2017 L’Oréal USA, Inc.


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I know this sounds dramatic, but it’s true:<br />

My eyebrows have been a problem for most<br />

of my life. When I was little, they were as<br />

thick as caterpillars—not in a face-framing,<br />

’80s-fashionable Brooke Shields way, but in<br />

an amorphous, forehead-dominating, doesthat-child-have-eyes<br />

kind of way. Which is<br />

likely why, when I was 13, my mother draped<br />

me across her lap on our living room couch,<br />

hissing, “I’ve been wanting to do this for<br />

years,” and went to town with a pair of tweezers.<br />

The ribbon-thin McDonald’s arches<br />

that resulted from her savage artistry left me<br />

looking perpetually surprised, an unlovely<br />

situation only compounded by my own overzealous<br />

efforts to mimic Gwyneth Paltrow’s<br />

Brad-era slivers in the late ’90s. By the time<br />

I decided to try to let those little hairs grow<br />

wild and free again, it was too late.<br />

Over the past few years, I’ve tried virtually<br />

every arch-enhancing pencil, marker,<br />

gel, and powder known to humankind, but<br />

most can endure only a few hours on my<br />

oily skin before vanishing (quick shoutout<br />

to long-lasting Benefit Goof Proof and<br />

Dior Diorshow Brow Styler, without which<br />

I would have spent even more time looking<br />

like a clown-school dropout). I’ve also<br />

experimented with off-label use of the lash<br />

booster Latisse, which coaxed out a few<br />

wheezy sprouts but none in the region I actually<br />

wished to regrow. For<br />

the most part, I threw in the BEFORE<br />

towel, growing my bangs out to<br />

hide my brows like a shameful<br />

secret, appalled when they’d accidentally<br />

pop through in photographs,<br />

making me look as if I’d<br />

just heard a sudden loud noise.<br />

When I received an invitation<br />

to meet with Dominique Bossavy,<br />

a blond Frenchwoman in her<br />

fifties who specializes in reshap-<br />

MY FIRST TATTOO<br />

After years of struggling with her barely-there brows, April Long calls in<br />

the big guns (literally) to take on her arch nemeses once and for all<br />

158<br />

INK YOURSELF HAPPY<br />

The author’s pre-tattoo<br />

“horseshoe” (top); days after<br />

her second session with<br />

Bossavy (above and right)<br />

ing sparse brows with a tattoolike process<br />

she calls “micro color infusion,” I was both<br />

thrilled and terrified. If she was as good as<br />

reputed (Bossavy’s ability to revivify arches,<br />

disguise stretch marks, and enhance lip contours<br />

draws Manhattan socialites, Brazilian<br />

supermodels, and Oscar nominees), then<br />

my brow woes would be over, but if she was<br />

heavy-handed, or somehow gave me a shape<br />

that didn’t suit my face, I might walk out<br />

looking even worse than when I went in. And<br />

because this is semipermanent makeup we’re<br />

talking about, I’d have to live with the results<br />

for up to three years.<br />

“You have beautiful eyes,” Bossavy says<br />

pretty much the second I arrive at Dangene,<br />

the chic medi-spa where she sees clients in<br />

New York (she also has salons in L.A. and<br />

Paris). “But oh, girl, your brows are killing<br />

you!” She points to my U-shaped arches.<br />

“You’ve got the horseshoes.”<br />

Bossavy begins by sketching in my ideal<br />

brow shape with a soft pencil, then shaves<br />

away any hairs outside that outline with a tiny<br />

razor (“Tweezing irritates the skin,” she explains,<br />

“and I don’t want to start my work with<br />

any inflammation”). It’s important, she tells<br />

me, to preserve some asymmetry. “It makes<br />

people look fake when their brows match too<br />

perfectly,” she says. “You’re never the same<br />

on both sides. What you want is for them to<br />

AFTER<br />

be sisters but not twins.” Nervously, I ask her<br />

to err on the side of subtlety: I don’t need wow<br />

brows, I tell her. I’d just like them to be pretty<br />

and innocuous. “Don’t worry,” she says. “The<br />

idea is for no one to be able to tell it’s been<br />

done.” And then she switches on the machine.<br />

Bossavy’s procedure involves a customized<br />

mixture of mineral-based pigments,<br />

which she delivers with a specially designed<br />

miniature needle that injects color into the<br />

skin without cutting or scraping. She’s quick<br />

to distinguish her technique from microblading,<br />

the Instagram-fueled sensation in<br />

which pigment is manually scratched into<br />

the skin, a process Bossavy says can cause infection<br />

and end up looking “blobby.” Her pigments—blended<br />

for each client’s skin tone,<br />

so the brows not only look natural during<br />

their life span but also fade without taking<br />

on any dreaded apricot or blue tones—aren’t<br />

implanted as deeply as with a traditional tattoo,<br />

meaning there’s neither bleeding during<br />

application nor redness afterward. And to my<br />

surprise, the process doesn’t hurt so much as<br />

it tickles; I find myself having to stop her repeatedly<br />

so I can sneeze.<br />

Over the machine’s hum, Bossavy tells me<br />

she’s making thin, quick strokes, some of<br />

which are crosshatched, in order to create a<br />

“fluffy” facsimile of hair. “I’m giving you little<br />

wisps at the ends,” she says. “A real eyebrow<br />

never ends with a hard line.” After 45<br />

minutes, she’s done, and I peer into a mirror<br />

to survey the results. My first response is…<br />

oh! And then uh-oh. I can’t decide how I feel.<br />

They’re so unfamiliar, so big, so dark. “This<br />

is the worst they’re going to look,” Bossavy<br />

says, assuring me that over the next few days<br />

they’ll fade to a less jarring intensity. I’ll need<br />

two more sessions before we reach the final<br />

result; in the meantime, I’m instructed to<br />

keep my brows away from water (tricky) for<br />

two weeks and tap on a Vaseline-type salve<br />

to address any flaking. Retinol and exfoliants<br />

are no-nos; daily sunscreen is a must.<br />

For the rest of the day, I can’t stop examining<br />

my brows in the mirror. It’s like I’ve fallen<br />

asleep and someone has drawn on my face<br />

with a Sharpie. The edges seem too precise,<br />

giving them the stencil-y Instagram-brow<br />

effect I had hoped to avoid. But I do love the<br />

shape: They’re smooth where once they were<br />

hooked, lush where once they were emaciated.<br />

They now swoop in a seamless arc from<br />

inner to outer eye, and my nose, wide at the<br />

bridge thanks to a childhood break, somehow<br />

looks slimmer.<br />

When my husband gets home that night,<br />

he does a double take. “Oh wow,” he says.<br />

From top: Owen Bruce/thelicensingproject.com; Frances F. Denny (3)


“You look crazy.” And then, while I’m<br />

trying to conjure some white lie about<br />

having my brows tinted or something else<br />

that sounds unscarily temporary, he asks,<br />

“Is that microblading?” It’s a whole separate<br />

story how my straight (I promise),<br />

non-YouTube-video-watching better half<br />

has any idea what microblading is, but<br />

suffice it to say I come clean and warn him<br />

that he might be living with these brows<br />

for quite some time. “Well,” he says helpfully,<br />

“you can always start wearing hats.”<br />

The next morning, I look like Eddie<br />

Munster. Even my dog looks at me funny.<br />

But on day three, I catch my reflection in<br />

the mirror of a dark restaurant and think,<br />

I look good. Are my cheekbones higher?<br />

Are the bags under my eyes gone? No, I<br />

realize, it’s the brows. In the right lighting,<br />

they’re amazing.<br />

By the time I see Bossavy two weeks later,<br />

the color has mellowed considerably.<br />

The outlines are softer, the strokes less<br />

noticeable. Certain areas have, however,<br />

begun to take on a slightly gray hue, which<br />

Bossavy tells me is only temporary, an awkward<br />

but necessary phase in treating those<br />

with fair hair. “If I put just the warm color<br />

on first, it will not stay,” Bossavy says. “By<br />

putting the warm shade on top of an ashy<br />

shade, it becomes a neutral blond.”<br />

Sure enough, after the—much quicker—second<br />

pass, the overall effect is more<br />

consistent, more natural. I find I’m no longer<br />

tugging my bangs down like a curtain<br />

to cover my brows; instead, I’m sweeping<br />

them aside. I love them. I love having<br />

them “done” without having to do anything.<br />

I love that they make me feel like I<br />

need less makeup overall and that out of<br />

my myriad irrational insecurities, I now<br />

have one less thing to think about.<br />

I’ve become obsessed with people’s<br />

brows. I study strangers’ foreheads on the<br />

subway, thinking how an attractive brow<br />

can come in a billion different shapes and<br />

sizes. The arches I personally find most<br />

beautiful are those that appear to be only<br />

moderately shaped, that telegraph some<br />

kind of individuality. My least favorites<br />

remain the supersculpted, highly refined,<br />

social-media-star brows. But ironically,<br />

I feel like mine look most my own now,<br />

after maximum intervention. Had my<br />

mother never stepped in, I might have<br />

grown up looking half wolf, so I suppose I<br />

should thank her. But oh, it’s been a long<br />

journey to find the brows I should have<br />

been born with.<br />

AFTER<br />

THE RAINBOW CONNECTION<br />

BLUE CRUSH<br />

Megan O’Neill discovers that a new eye color lends her some serious swagger<br />

It all started with Kanye. I was<br />

looking at a photo of him and<br />

Kim Kardashian from the 2016<br />

Met Gala, in which Kardashian’s<br />

spectacular Balmain gown,<br />

created with actual pieces of<br />

disco ball, somehow managed<br />

to accentuate her impossibleto-accentuate-further<br />

bottom.<br />

But it was Kanye—love him<br />

or hate him—whose getup<br />

ensnared me. It wasn’t his<br />

crystal-adorned Balmain jacket<br />

that got me (although that was<br />

pretty amazing); it was his eyes,<br />

which he’d transformed for the<br />

evening into a hypnotic bluegreen<br />

that was part husky, part<br />

Game of Thrones White Walker,<br />

and wholly badass.<br />

I decided I needed to get<br />

them myself. (It must be a<br />

by-product of my growing up<br />

in New York City, where you<br />

glimpse all manner of folks with<br />

outrageous everything, that I<br />

view the zany as beautiful.) I<br />

knew, as with Kanye, the wild<br />

color would pop against my<br />

dark complexion.<br />

I track down Kanye’s<br />

optometrist, Mitch Cassel,<br />

whose Studio Optix offce<br />

in Manhattan specializes<br />

in custom, hand-painted<br />

contacts. Cassel treats patients<br />

with eye disfigurements, as<br />

well as celebs like Leonardo<br />

DiCaprio, whom he fitted with<br />

jaundiced-looking lenses for<br />

The Revenant, but the majority<br />

of his clients are people like me,<br />

angling to add an electrifying<br />

touch to their look. While a pair<br />

The author<br />

and her<br />

power blues<br />

of his lenses can run well past<br />

the four-figure mark, Cassel<br />

insists the result makes you<br />

walk differently, “like changing<br />

your hair color.” Perfect timing,<br />

because my hairstylist had just<br />

put the kibosh on another round<br />

of bleach—my look’s current<br />

source of fantastical zaniness—<br />

until some of my breakage grew<br />

out. For the first time in three<br />

years, my hair was mostly an<br />

unfantastical brunette.<br />

Cassel is busy with the<br />

likes of Leo, so I impatiently<br />

order myself green, garish<br />

violet, gold-flecked hazel, and<br />

dreamy blue contacts from<br />

LensCircle, a site that stocks<br />

practically every shade of<br />

FDA-approved (something to<br />

look out for!) lenses. I opt for<br />

“circle lenses,” a style with an<br />

extrawide outer rim that makes<br />

your irises appear like saucers<br />

(think: Lady Gaga lurching<br />

around in the bathtub in her<br />

“Bad Romance” video).<br />

A few days later, I receive<br />

the package, tear it open, and<br />

have a ball trying out all the<br />

different lenses. (Note: If you’re<br />

considering circle lenses for<br />

the first time, give yourself,<br />

like, 45 minutes to actually<br />

get them into your eyes. It<br />

feels dreadfully unnatural at<br />

first—even if you’re used to<br />

regular contacts.) The violet<br />

isn’t pigmented enough to really<br />

show up over my own treebark-brown<br />

irises. The hazel<br />

is pretty but not nearly weird<br />

enough. The green is awesome,<br />

but the blue—especially in<br />

contrast to my skin—is it. Forget<br />

the old-timey stigma that<br />

women of color who wear<br />

contact lenses to adopt a<br />

lighter iris shade are grappling<br />

with feelings of racial selfhate:<br />

Mesmerizing crystallinegeode<br />

eyes—not found in<br />

nature, people!—and physical<br />

experimentation are pure fun.<br />

That Saturday, I make my<br />

debut as a blue-eyed girl.<br />

As I walk around SoHo, I’m<br />

pulsating with that distinct<br />

energy you acquire from<br />

wearing a new dress that makes<br />

your waist look small and your<br />

legs infinite. I lock eyes with an<br />

attractively scruffy man, who<br />

grins at me as he passes. On the<br />

same block, a dapper-looking<br />

couple glance at me, whisper<br />

something to each other, and<br />

then look back at me and<br />

smile. As I leave a boutique, the<br />

security guard tells me I cut a<br />

nice figure. Why in the name of<br />

Yeezy have I not been rocking<br />

these my entire adult life?<br />

Later, waiting for the subway,<br />

I feel a tap on my shoulder. I<br />

turn around to face two women<br />

dressed like Alexa Chung, the<br />

kind of It Girl influencer types<br />

who’d have upwards of 10,000<br />

Instagram followers each.<br />

“We just spotted you from<br />

across the platform—you’re so<br />

exotic,” one says. “We have<br />

a clothing line. Would you be<br />

interested in coming to a casting<br />

call to model in our fall show?”<br />

I say I’d love to and take<br />

their card. As they walk away,<br />

I think how crazy it is that<br />

contact lenses are responsible<br />

for this inordinate amount of<br />

attention. Or are they? I chase<br />

after the women.<br />

“Can I ask you guys<br />

something?” I say, catching<br />

them as they step into their<br />

train. “Did you notice me<br />

because I have blue eyes?”<br />

The women peer closer, their<br />

faces now inches from mine.<br />

“Ohmygod, you do have blue<br />

eyes!” one says. “We stopped<br />

you because we thought your<br />

hair and style and vibe were<br />

cool and confident.”<br />

And then, the door closes.<br />

From bottom center: Frances F. Denny; Devon Jarvis/Studio D (4)<br />

160


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ty much lived happily ever after without one.<br />

In the midst of the indecision and vacillation,<br />

my iPhone rings. I pull it out, pausing<br />

at my reflection in the black-screen glass.<br />

I send the caller to voice mail and turn to<br />

Liesl: “Count me in.”<br />

Whenever my editor Liesl calls me into the<br />

office, I know she’s going to ask me to do<br />

something I won’t want to do. It’s much easier<br />

to twist my arm when my arm is in the room.<br />

Failing that, her headlock is very persuasive.<br />

“The May issue is all about transformation,”<br />

she begins, circling my chair. “Megan<br />

is wearing colored contacts; Cotton is<br />

getting hair extensions; April is undergoing<br />

eyebrow tattoos; and Keziah is cleansing<br />

with dirt.”<br />

For real? That’s a thing? (Yes. And it is.)<br />

“But you…you are a Beauty Adventuress.<br />

And you always want to do something big.”<br />

Liesl snaps her fingers, points at me, and<br />

commands: “Say the first thing that comes<br />

to mind!”<br />

“Run for the elevator!”<br />

“The second thing that comes to mind!”<br />

Shave my head? Pierce my nose? Lose<br />

BEAUTY ADVENTURE<br />

THE ONE<br />

AND DONE<br />

Holly Millea has long been<br />

our cosmetic astronaut. For her<br />

eightieth Beauty Adventure, she<br />

goes where none in her orbit have<br />

gone before: She gets a facelift.<br />

Along the risk/reward curve,<br />

there’s no procedure more daring.<br />

Here’s what happened.<br />

10 pounds? Stop procrastinating? I’d never<br />

make that deadline.<br />

But what really comes to mind is a facelift.<br />

I mean, I’ve been contemplating that<br />

leap for a while (as has Liesl, among other<br />

friends), for both professional and personal<br />

reasons. I earn my living in an industry<br />

where youth is the greatest currency, and I<br />

live in a city where women outnumber men.<br />

Need I say more? Yeah, I do want a facelift,<br />

in the same way I really do want a man in my<br />

life—like last night, when I woke up alone in<br />

my bed and the smoke-alarm battery needed<br />

changing. Chirp…chirp…chirp…<br />

But then I think, What if I get what I want,<br />

and it ends in disaster? I’m not commitmentphobic,<br />

but I am life-altering-mistake averse.<br />

The wrong man, a bad facelift—there would<br />

be nothing worse than having to look in the<br />

mirror every day knowing I could have pret-<br />

A few weeks later, the girls are abuzz with<br />

holiday plans over dinner at Freds at Barneys<br />

in New York. Virginia is visiting<br />

family in Philly, Betsy is finishing a<br />

documentary in Phoenix, and Renata is<br />

delivering Meals on Wheels in Manhattan.<br />

I announce I’ll be hiding out in my<br />

apartment recovering from plastic surgery.<br />

It goes over like a lead fruitcake.<br />

“Please tell me you’re joking,” Renata<br />

says. “What kind of plastic surgery?”<br />

A brow lift, I tell them (not telling<br />

them that I’m actually going full Monty).<br />

I’m finally fixing my Frankenforehead,<br />

which is so heavy that I have a headache<br />

from lifting it all day. Having inherited<br />

this brow from my dad—a ringer for<br />

Marlon Brando—I ooze masculinity.<br />

What’s worse, when my brow is relaxed,<br />

I look beady-eyed, shifty…guilty. I can’t<br />

get away with anything anymore.<br />

Virginia’s not buying it. “If you lift<br />

your forehead, you’ll end up with a<br />

five-head, and then you’ll have to wear<br />

bangs. You might as well get bangs now<br />

and skip the surgery.”<br />

“I, for one, am excited to see if it<br />

works,” Betsy says. “What’s the big diff<br />

between Botox four times a year and<br />

a brow lift? And you won’t have that<br />

wonky look everybody has the first week<br />

Botox settles in. It’s not a big deal…not<br />

like a facelift.”<br />

Reflexively, I start pulling at the loose<br />

skin around my jowls, stretching it away<br />

from my face like Silly Putty. This is what I<br />

do when I get anxious.<br />

“What are you doing?” Betsy asks.<br />

“And why are you looking at me and doing<br />

that?” Virginia says. “You think I need a<br />

facelift?”<br />

“No,” Renata says, turning to me, narrowing<br />

her eyes. “Holly is getting one. Only—she<br />

wasn’t going to tell us.”<br />

Betsy: “You are? This is very exciting!”<br />

“Oh, stop already,” Virginia says, holding<br />

her hand up. “Are you crazy? You’re going to<br />

end up with your head in a jar!”<br />

Over the last two decades, I’ve gone on 79<br />

Beauty Adventures, many of which have informed<br />

my resolve. I’ve tried and tested all<br />

sorts of sundry youth-preserving methods.<br />

Alexandre Weinberger/Trunk Archive<br />

162


long on protection for even the shortest of shorts.<br />

UP1<br />

TO<br />

LEAK-FREE PERIODS<br />

Wear what you want.<br />

%<br />

©Procter & Gamble, Inc., 2017


I am going to do this. I’m not going<br />

to feel ashamed or guilty or say sorry<br />

to anyone for saying yes to myself.<br />

The stopgap measures work—for a while.<br />

Then it’s out with the credit card, back for<br />

more. And more. And more often.<br />

I see the surgery as an investment—and<br />

for me, it is a major investment. (The national<br />

average price for forehead, face, and<br />

neck is $14,429: anesthesiologist, operating<br />

room, postoperative care, and batteries sold<br />

separately. The bigger the city, the bigger<br />

the price tags.) But nothing can dissuade<br />

me. I’ve done my homework, all the research.<br />

I’ve even watched the YouTube surgery<br />

videos. (Trust me, you do not want to<br />

see how the sausage is made.) I am going to<br />

do this. I want the mythic “one and done.”<br />

And I’m not going to feel ashamed or<br />

BEFORE<br />

guilty or say sorry to anyone for saying<br />

yes to myself. Got it?<br />

Yes, it’s scary. It’s my<br />

damn face. As we wait for a<br />

cab after dinner, Renata, my<br />

philosopher king-of-a-friend,<br />

says, “Facelifting is the antiaging<br />

mother lode of courage<br />

and risk. I don’t believe that<br />

you think you really need it. I<br />

think you really want to do it.”<br />

I feel like a beauty astronaut,<br />

and this adventure? It’s<br />

a moon shot. And my mission<br />

is to go there and back, to return<br />

safely—and, I hope, recognizable—and<br />

to report every detail.<br />

Herewith, the story I wish I could have<br />

read before I decided to go for it.<br />

I meet Liesl at the office of David Rosenberg,<br />

MD, the facial plastic surgeon I interviewed<br />

on my last adventure, whose scalpel<br />

has worked wonders on several of my industry<br />

acquaintances.<br />

“First off, let’s focus on the brow,” Rosenberg<br />

says, steering me to the floor-length<br />

mirror in his exam room. “It’s hard to see<br />

the upper half of your eyeball when your<br />

brows are this heavy. And your outer lids are<br />

actually impeding your peripheral vision.<br />

An endoscopic brow lift softly elevates the<br />

entire brow in a way that the outer third is a<br />

bit more elegant.<br />

“The inner third comes up in a subtle<br />

way—there’s no ‘deer in the headlights’<br />

look. It just allows you to look rested.”<br />

He stands behind me, lifting my forehead<br />

with his fingers, opening up my eyes. “This<br />

is you,” he says, looking at my reflection.<br />

“This is pretty. I would say that where you<br />

are right now is not you. It’s not communicating<br />

a sense of vitality. It just makes you<br />

look exhausted and angry.”<br />

Rosenberg gets down to the nuts and bolts<br />

of the procedure, or, in the case of an endoscopic<br />

brow lift, the Endotine absorbable<br />

fixation device—a triangular piece of what<br />

looks like plastic, the size of a thumbnail; it’s<br />

flat on one side, with sharp barbs on the other.<br />

He pulls one out of the drawer.<br />

“There are surgeons doing very beautiful<br />

coronal brow lifts,” Rosenberg says, referring<br />

to the classic, old-school<br />

lift, wherein a single incision is<br />

made from one ear to the other<br />

across the top of the head, like<br />

a headband, and a strip of skin<br />

and tissue is removed. (Some<br />

consider it the gold standard,<br />

prized for its precision and permanence.)<br />

“You could do it, but<br />

you’re buying a 16- or 18-inch<br />

scar with the potential for permanent<br />

hair loss. Endoscopic,<br />

there’s no hair loss. The [four]<br />

The author<br />

10 days<br />

before her<br />

surgery<br />

(above), and<br />

two months<br />

post-op<br />

(right)<br />

incisions are [each] the length of a pinkie<br />

nail. It’s the easiest recovery of any operation<br />

I do.”<br />

As with the coronal, in this lift the muscle<br />

and fat are released from the skull and<br />

elevated to a higher position. Rosenberg<br />

then attaches two Endotines, securing them<br />

via two tiny holes he drills into the skull,<br />

aligning them, in my case, with the middle<br />

of each eyebrow arch. Placement of the<br />

Endotines varies depending on the issues<br />

you’re trying to correct; mine were placed a<br />

bit farther out than is typical, for maximum<br />

lift in the area of my forehead with the most<br />

droop. The five barbs evenly distribute the<br />

weight of and tension on the brow. “Think<br />

of it like hanging from a jungle gym,”<br />

Rosenberg says. “It’s easier to hang using all<br />

of your fingers than just hanging by one.”<br />

He holds the device up to the light. “This is<br />

dissolvable sugar. It stays for five months,<br />

and the brow heals in the new position.’’<br />

Rosenberg estimates he does 200 of the<br />

30-minute procedures a year. “Best-case<br />

scenario, three days you’re perfect. If there<br />

were any recovery issues, there might be<br />

swelling here around the eyes. Maybe one<br />

in 50 will get a bruise.”<br />

He addresses the rest of my mug. “Your<br />

jawline and cheeks have fallen,” he says,<br />

manipulating the soft clay of my skin. “A<br />

deep-plane facelift will restore the architecture<br />

of your face to reveal beautiful bone<br />

structure. The cheek will be highlighted,<br />

the jawline defined; no sense of pull.”<br />

Pinching the slack skin of my neck,<br />

he gives it a wiggle. “This loose skin in<br />

AFTER<br />

the central neck will be gone.” Rosenberg<br />

hands me a mirror and, with his<br />

hand flat, irons everything slightly<br />

up. “This is a beautiful, elegant, soft<br />

change. Can you live with that?”<br />

Liesl erupts, “I can!” We look<br />

at her.<br />

I can live with it, too. Houston, I’m<br />

ready for lift-up in T-minus 10 days.<br />

But first things first, and the first<br />

thing is Botox. “You have a very, very<br />

expressive face,” he says, injecting<br />

the muscles atop and between my<br />

eyebrows to prep me for surgery. “I<br />

can lift your forehead, but when you<br />

wake up and start frowning, you’re<br />

going to pull the brow back down. Get<br />

Botox twice a year, and the lift will<br />

last a decade.”<br />

The day comes, December 15, and I’m<br />

ready for launch. I wake up at 6 a.m.,<br />

From left: courtesy of the subject; Frances F. Denny<br />

164


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undergo caffeine withdrawal (no foods or<br />

liquids after midnight), exercise, vacuum,<br />

shower, do laundry, respond to a slew of<br />

well-wishers, pop an Ativan (prescribed by<br />

Rosenberg to prevent presurgical hysteria),<br />

and wait for Liesl to pick me up, as promised.<br />

Then she calls; she’s stuck in traffic. So I walk<br />

alone the three blocks to his office. I know,<br />

only three blocks. I just wanted someone I<br />

love to hug me before I went under.<br />

Wearing green scrubs, Rosenberg enters<br />

the exam room upbeat, tousle-haired, with<br />

the energetic confidence of a Grey’s Anatomy<br />

star: “This is going to be fun!” I find his<br />

certainty comforting. Staring at me intently,<br />

he uses a fine marker, drawing incision<br />

guidelines on my scalp and around my ears.<br />

I ask questions: Is he sure I won’t lose any<br />

hair? “Positive.” Will he take a decade off<br />

my face? “Trust me, you will not be underdone.”<br />

But will I look like I had work? “Making<br />

your face more beautiful is an art form. I<br />

try to perfect doing living art, really individualizing<br />

it. You’ll look like you.”<br />

“I’m not going to wake up with a fivehead?”<br />

“No!” he says. “Now you’re going to have<br />

to stop talking, and let me go into my zone.”<br />

The anesthesiologist, Connie Ding,<br />

checks in, confirms my medical history, and<br />

takes me next door to the operating room,<br />

where I lie down and suddenly panic. Ding<br />

is all business. “This won’t hurt,” she says,<br />

sticking a catheter in my vein, leaving me<br />

just enough time to utter what could be my<br />

famous last words: “That did hurt.”<br />

Okay, I’m way beyond asleep. Where I am,<br />

right now, only God and maybe Vladimir<br />

Putin know. Meanwhile, here’s what’s happening<br />

as I’m traveling without a passport<br />

across conscious borders.…<br />

Van Morrison is playing on Pandora.<br />

Rosenberg, scalpel in hand, starts at my left<br />

temple first, careful to work beneath the frontal<br />

branch of the facial nerve (one slip of the<br />

knife and no more frowning, no more look of<br />

surprise, no more knitting of the brow).<br />

Through a total of four small incisions just<br />

behind the hairline (one above each eyebrow<br />

and one in each temple), he inserts an<br />

endoscope—a fiber-optic camera the size of<br />

a straw. With the lighted endoscope in one<br />

hand, his cutting instrument in the other,<br />

and his eyes on the monitor, he releases the<br />

muscle fibers and underlying tissues from<br />

the skull and debulks the fibers—weakens<br />

them—leaving the forehead with “some<br />

expression—less harsh than what you had,<br />

but enough to keep you looking vibrant and<br />

166<br />

No one will even<br />

suspect. Unless<br />

you tell everyone.<br />

normal,” Rosenberg says. (It used to be that<br />

the standard was to remove the muscle completely…which<br />

left you with a flat facial expression,<br />

not unlike a lobotomy.)<br />

He then lifts my brow into an aesthetically<br />

pleasing position—overcorrecting by 10<br />

percent to accommodate a slight drop that<br />

will happen once the postsurgical swelling<br />

recedes—and attaches it to the Endotines.<br />

Raising the operating table, he sees how<br />

gravity impacts the placement and, pleased<br />

with the result, lowers me back down. This<br />

has all taken 30 minutes.<br />

Moving on to my neck, Rosenberg makes<br />

a one-and-a-half-inch incision just under my<br />

chin to access the platysma muscle—two<br />

thin sheets of muscle that extend from the<br />

collarbone all the way up to the midface,<br />

overlapping under the chin.<br />

Like the elastic in a pair of tights, the platysma<br />

loosens with age, spreading out. The<br />

skin loses elasticity, too. The fix is removing<br />

an inch-wide vertical strip of the muscle<br />

where it overlaps, and endoscopically sewing<br />

the sides back together with eight internal<br />

stitches. Fifteen minutes’ work.<br />

Now Rosenberg turns to the right side of<br />

my face to begin tightening my jawline and<br />

redefining my cheek. Using his scalpel, he<br />

traces the curve where my ear meets my<br />

face, continuing down to the earlobe, up behind<br />

the ear, and into the hairline behind my<br />

ear for an inch and a half.<br />

He peels back the skin of my cheek, locates<br />

the top of the platysma muscle, and<br />

goes under it into the deep plane, but above<br />

the facial nerve branches, and releases the<br />

muscle. A slip here, and sayonara to smiling,<br />

whistling, kissing.…<br />

Using a pair of $500 porcelain scissors—“so,<br />

so sharp they require complete<br />

accuracy”—Rosenberg works above the<br />

muscle, freeing it from the skin. With the<br />

muscle suspended, he slides it back up onto<br />

the cheekbone, anchoring it in place using<br />

permanent internal stitches. He then moves<br />

on to the left cheek.<br />

Redraping the skin, he trims the overage—an<br />

inch and a half on each side of my<br />

face and neck—and begins closing up all the<br />

incisions with such precision that suturing<br />

accounts for half the operation time.<br />

Four hours, 100 itsy stitches, 10 staples,<br />

and two big Novocain injections later, my<br />

hair is washed, my head is wrapped, and I’m<br />

lying on a gurney floating back to earth.<br />

I wake and feel so good (thanks to the painkilling<br />

Novocain and Percocet) that before I<br />

even leave Rosenberg’s office, I’m taking<br />

selfies with my home-care nurse, Melissa,<br />

and sending them out to my peeps—the<br />

postoperative equivalent of drunk-dialing.<br />

Back in my apartment, I fall into a deep<br />

sleep, sitting up with my head wrapped in<br />

ice to keep the swelling down. The next<br />

morning, Melissa removes the bandages,<br />

and I look in the mirror. Relief doesn’t begin<br />

to describe it. I feel the kind of euphoria<br />

one must feel after dodging a bullet or a<br />

malfunctioning guillotine. I’ve gotten away<br />

with a crime against nature.<br />

The next few days are a Percocet blur of<br />

ice packs and sleeping upright, eating applesauce<br />

and tapioca pudding and popping<br />

arnica tablets, friends coming and going and<br />

calling and texting, and me taking progress<br />

pictures and shooting them out.<br />

“Not smart to mass-text pics,” Renata<br />

texts back.<br />

I should have locked my phone away. I<br />

couldn’t tell you whom I exposed myself to,<br />

or who in turn exposed me, bruised, swollen,<br />

my bright red ears looking like they’ve<br />

been removed and reattached, my deep<br />

purple neck matching my purple pajamas. I<br />

know firsthand the fascination that accompanies<br />

plastic-surgery procedures. Friends<br />

have sent me their pictures, and I’ve had to<br />

delete them—stat!—to save myself from being<br />

awful and showing them to other people.<br />

Don’t ask me what the temptation is. All<br />

I know is that a close friend sent me a picture<br />

of her breast implants, and I would have<br />

flashed it a hundred times if I hadn’t deleted<br />

it as promised on the life of my dog, Truman.<br />

Day four, off the pain meds, out of the fog—<br />

and, I must say, looking relatively good—I<br />

call Liesl and scold her for not visiting me.<br />

“I did!” she says. “I brought a bottle of wine.<br />

Your second cousin was staying the weekend<br />

with you. She was visiting from Yale. Don’t<br />

you remember?” I have a second cousin?<br />

(Apparently Joanna and Germaine came by<br />

with a bottle of champagne “and we put the<br />

lights on your Christmas tree,” Joanna says.<br />

“How do you think they got there?” Elves!)<br />

The first thing Renata says seeing me is,<br />

“Holy shit. Good for you! Don’t take this the<br />

wrong way. It’s not that you look younger—<br />

it’s that he made you prettier. Honestly, you’ve<br />

Continued on page 288


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BEAUTYCOUNTER CULTURE<br />

STOCKED MARKET<br />

America’s obsession with French pharmacie finds and K-beauty<br />

buys has launched a million Google searches. But we’ve got plenty<br />

of holy-grail drugstore treasures right here—just ask our panel of<br />

international ELLE editors and It Girls, who share their can’t-livewithout-it<br />

U.S. picks. By Denise Koller<br />

REVLON<br />

COLORSTAY MAKEUP<br />

“I haven’t found anything better<br />

for my oily skin,” says Barbara<br />

Huber, ELLE Germany’s beauty<br />

director, of Revlon’s matte,<br />

SPF-infused formula.<br />

MILANI BAKED BLUSH IN<br />

LUMINOSO<br />

South African Chantelle Bester of<br />

Not Another Poppie says Milani’s<br />

Luminoso blush “eliminates the<br />

need for a separate highlighter.”<br />

NEUTROGENA ULTRA<br />

SHEER BODY MIST<br />

SUNSCREEN SPF 45<br />

“There’s nothing in the UK this<br />

high in SPF yet invisible on the<br />

skin,” says Anna Gardner, Brighton-based<br />

writer of The Anna Edit.<br />

This page, from left: Kat Borchart/thelicensingproject.com; remaining images: Devon Jarvis/Studio D. Opposite page: Devon Jarvis/Studio D<br />

170


MAYBELLINE<br />

NEW YORK TREATMENT<br />

CONCEALER<br />

Bester applies it in a V shape under<br />

her eyes and dabs it onto other<br />

spots that need touching up. “I’m<br />

totally dependent on it,” she says.<br />

EOS CUCUMBER<br />

HAND LOTION<br />

ELLE UK Beauty Director<br />

Sophie Beresiner’s choice DIY<br />

spa treatment: lavishing this<br />

healing shea- and aloe-infused<br />

cream on her mitts.<br />

BANANA BOAT<br />

SUMMER COLOR<br />

SELF-TANNING LOTION<br />

“It dries quickly, and the color<br />

appears natural and doesn’t stain<br />

clothes,” Huber says of the vitamin<br />

E–enriched, glow-bestowing cream.<br />

JOHNSON’S BABY<br />

OIL GEL<br />

“I use it for my hair to create a<br />

touchable, slicked-back do,” says<br />

Philippines-based Liz Uy, digital<br />

curator for Style: Singapore.<br />

ESSIE NAIL<br />

POLISHES<br />

ELLE Japan’s Yumiko Murata is<br />

enamored of the brand’s fetching<br />

lacquers, such as the soft pink<br />

Excuse Me, Sur.<br />

KRISTIN ESS<br />

“THE ONE”<br />

SIGNATURE SHAMPOO<br />

ELLE Singapore Senior Beauty<br />

Writer Lieu Wei Ning says the<br />

formula, with strengthening pea<br />

protein, leaves hair “glossy without<br />

weighing it down.”<br />

DOVE ADVANCED<br />

CARE ANTIPERSPIRANT<br />

IN ORIGINAL CLEAN<br />

“Airport security probably<br />

scans my bag and thinks I have<br />

a major problem,” says ELLE<br />

Australia Beauty Editor Amy<br />

Starr of her obsession with<br />

Dove solid deodorant. “Most<br />

varieties [in Australia] only<br />

come in spray or roll-on, but the<br />

texture of this solid is infinitely<br />

superior.” Plus, Starr’s a fan<br />

of its classic clean scent, also<br />

hard to find Down Under. “Our<br />

options are usually fields of<br />

flowers or zingy citrus, and I<br />

always feel like those conflict<br />

with any fragrance you might<br />

apply afterward.”<br />

L’ORÉAL PARIS BRONZED<br />

TAUPE EYE SHADOW<br />

“The metallic finish makes your<br />

eyes glisten, but it’s subtle<br />

enough to throw on every day,<br />

too,” says Gardner of this<br />

only-in-the-USA hue.<br />

CLEAR EYES REDNESS<br />

RELIEF EYE DROPS<br />

“When I wear colored contacts,<br />

this is a must,” says Fig & Viper<br />

Creative Director Alisa Ueno<br />

from Tokyo (where cosmetic contacts<br />

are sold in drugstores!).<br />

ADVIL PM<br />

A post-NYFW essential, Advil PM<br />

caplets “are amazing for the plane<br />

journey home,” says Beresiner of<br />

the ibuprofen-based pain reliever,<br />

which contains a zzz-inducing<br />

antihistamine.<br />

171


BEAUTY REPORT<br />

Whether you’re a filler first-timer or<br />

a Bo pro, ELLE’s first annual no-fear<br />

guide to injectables covers everything<br />

you need to know, from choosing<br />

the best doctor to the importance of<br />

taking things slow. Here, April Long<br />

celebrates all the small things.<br />

It goes without saying that no one<br />

wants to look done. Still, we’ve all seen<br />

it, or maybe it’s even happened to us:<br />

the brow too high, too low, too frozen;<br />

the balloonish lips or Angelina-<br />

Jolie-in-Maleficent cheekbones that<br />

give the game away. Here is a person,<br />

these all-too-obvious needleassisted<br />

interventions say, who hoped<br />

to look younger, prettier—someone<br />

who strove to arrest aging, à la Blake<br />

Lively’s magical imperviousness to<br />

time in The Age of Adaline, or even<br />

to reverse it, like Benjamin Button—<br />

and overshot the mark.


Thankfully, as dermatologists have<br />

grown more sophisticated in their methods<br />

and the array of fillers, neurotoxins,<br />

and fat dissolvers like Kybella has<br />

become more diverse and specialized,<br />

patently obvious nonsurgical work is becoming<br />

the exception rather than the<br />

rule. (And surely, if the 9 million-plus<br />

injections done in the United States<br />

in 2015 had made us a nation of funnyfaced<br />

freaks, we’d know it.) The best<br />

needle wielders now recognize that<br />

the most natural-looking effects are<br />

achieved incrementally, with tiny, almost<br />

imperceptible adjustments.<br />

“I’m a big believer in ‘You don’t fill<br />

up the gas tank in one try,’ ” says Los<br />

Angeles–based dermatologist Annie<br />

Chiu, MD. “Softly adjusting gives the<br />

most beautiful results, and budgetwise<br />

it’s more reasonable as well. You can<br />

always add, but it’s harder to take away.<br />

Hyaluronic acid fillers are reversible,<br />

but you obviously don’t want to do that<br />

unless absolutely necessary.”<br />

“I CALL THEM little tweak-bits,” says<br />

New York–based derm Dendy Engelman,<br />

MD. “This is the secret behind all<br />

the celebrities who the layperson thinks<br />

are just genetic phenoms. They are<br />

able to age beautifully because they’re<br />

not doing major overhauls. They’re not<br />

changing their faces, adding tons of<br />

volume, or erasing their expressions.<br />

They’re just focusing on tiny changes<br />

that really fly under the radar. They’re<br />

not so perceptible that it’s like, ‘Oh, she<br />

went and got her eyes done’ or ‘She’s<br />

changed her lips.’ Nobody can tell.”<br />

With injectables, small hits can have<br />

a big impact—and not necessarily in the<br />

places one might expect. Engelman,<br />

for example, sometimes uses “a tiny bit<br />

of Botox at the base of the columella,<br />

which is that divider between the nostrils,”<br />

to lift the tip of the nose. “There<br />

are a lot of small physiological changes<br />

that people don’t really notice as signs of<br />

aging, which we can address,” she says.<br />

Another trick: making the eyes look bigger<br />

by injecting a baby dose of neurotoxin<br />

just underneath the eye. “If you just<br />

put one unit of Botox there,” Engelman<br />

says, “it drops the lower eyelid about<br />

one or two millimeters and opens up the<br />

aperture of the eye. So you look a little<br />

more awake, a little younger or prettier—<br />

but not noticeably different.”<br />

In more traditionally<br />

treated areas,<br />

derms tend to stay<br />

with standard doses of<br />

Botox and fillers—“I<br />

believe that if you use<br />

too little between the<br />

eyebrows, you’re not<br />

going to prevent those<br />

etched lines from<br />

getting deeper over<br />

time,” says New York–<br />

based dermatologist<br />

Whitney Bowe, MD.<br />

“And I find that I need<br />

to put in .1 to .2 ccs—<br />

the more traditional<br />

doses of filler—along<br />

the cheekbone in order<br />

to get the lifting<br />

effect I’m after.” But<br />

for the rest of the face,<br />

Bowe says, “I’ve completely<br />

changed my<br />

injection technique.”<br />

To address crow’sfeet,<br />

for example, Bowe “wraps” microdoses<br />

of neurotoxin—delivered with an<br />

ultrathin tuberculin needle—around the<br />

eye, starting from the tail of the eyebrow<br />

and finishing under the lower eyelid. “Instead<br />

of hitting that area with just three<br />

injections on each side, which is what<br />

was studied during FDA trials, I actually<br />

do a series of about six or seven injection<br />

sites,” she says. “That way, I get a very<br />

gentle, natural, widespread effect that<br />

opens up the eye and lightens up heavy<br />

lids. It also changes the texture of the skin<br />

in a way that traditional deeper injections<br />

don’t, because I’m actually affecting<br />

only the very superficial muscle fibers.<br />

So when people complain that they have<br />

crepey or cigarette-paper skin around the<br />

eye, it helps to smooth that out.”<br />

SIMILARLY, BOWE USES minuscule<br />

doses of hyaluronic acid fillers in<br />

marionette lines, smile lines, and nasolabial<br />

folds, placing them shallowly into<br />

the dermis “to gently hydrate the skin<br />

from beneath the surface.” This imparts<br />

an immediate dewy glow but also, she<br />

says, galvanizes a longer-term benefit:<br />

“It triggers your own body to make more<br />

collagen. I’m deliberately wounding<br />

the skin in tiny points down and along<br />

those lines in order to tell your body to<br />

start healing itself. I find that by doing<br />

“This is the<br />

secret behind all<br />

the celebrities,”<br />

Engelman says.<br />

this injection technique, I’m able to get<br />

a much more powerful preventive effect<br />

from the filler, because I’m creating tension<br />

on the fibroblast cells, making them<br />

create more collagen. Again, it’s very<br />

off-label, but if I see people every three<br />

months and I use very low doses distributed<br />

in a lot of different areas, I’m able<br />

to get healthier-looking skin over time.<br />

So even after the enzymes in our bodies<br />

break down that hyaluronic acid filler,<br />

the skin looks tighter and firmer.”<br />

The goal, always, should be natural<br />

movement (nothing should “stop you<br />

from communicating, emoting, showing<br />

sympathy or empathy or interest,”<br />

Bowe says)—even if that means leaving a<br />

few wrinkles unsmoothed and not going<br />

full throttle on a particular area, which<br />

could create, say, an overlarge lip that’s<br />

disharmonious with the rest of the face.<br />

Indeed, with cruel irony, anything too<br />

heavy-handed can actually backfire and<br />

make someone’s face read as being older,<br />

rather than younger. “It’s always that fine<br />

line between doing just enough but never<br />

Opening page: Jenn Collins/thelicensingproject.com. This page: Charles Marais<br />

OPEN HERE


BEAUTY REPORT<br />

teetering over into too much,” Engelman<br />

says. “I think that although Kylie Jenner<br />

has had good work, she looks about 15<br />

years older than her real age. All these<br />

young girls are doing way too much, way<br />

too early. I always say to my young patients,<br />

‘The one thing I can’t give you is<br />

your actual youth, so you need to ride that<br />

out as long as you can. When that starts<br />

to break down—and it will—we can start<br />

to do things. But in the meantime, don’t<br />

go messing with it. If you start monkeying<br />

with it too early, it knocks you into an<br />

older-looking category.’ ”<br />

WHEN WE DO SEE overfilled or disconcertingly<br />

immobile faces, there can<br />

be several factors to blame, but it nearly<br />

always involves either an unskilled injector<br />

or an unscrupulous one who will<br />

acquiesce to patients who want—and<br />

are willing to pay for—something they<br />

don’t need. “Every time I look at celebrities<br />

who have crossed over to the dark<br />

side of doing too much, it’s not that I’m<br />

upset with them; I’m upset with the doctor<br />

who did it to them,” Engelman says.<br />

“We all know the right aesthetic.”<br />

It’s important, therefore, to find a<br />

board-certified dermatologist or plastic<br />

surgeon who will work with you to<br />

strike the right balance—and say no to<br />

you when necessary. When Bowe encounters<br />

“millennials who come in with<br />

Instagram pictures of enormous lips,”<br />

she says, “I have to counsel them extensively<br />

about how we have to maintain<br />

the proper ratios and proportions. I can<br />

put in only a little bit of product but focus<br />

on the pillows of the lips, and give you a<br />

beautiful, sexy smirk when you’re at rest.<br />

I can turn up the corners or make the<br />

Cupid’s bow pop. It’s not about pumping<br />

lips full of product and giving you<br />

two big sausages.” Even when a patient<br />

does have naturally thin lips and desires<br />

a fuller pout, Bowe takes it slow: “I’d<br />

rather do a series of treatments using<br />

very small injections at a time. Someone<br />

might need two syringes to get to the<br />

point where she’s going to be happy, yes,<br />

but I’ll do one syringe, and then I’ll have<br />

the patient come back in a month or two<br />

to do the second. I like to give the tissues<br />

a chance to recover, and then evaluate.”<br />

In general, derms are breaking away<br />

from a one-size-fits-all approach and<br />

tackling individual faces with an eye toward<br />

modest interventions that preserve<br />

idiosyncrasies and asymmetries; the goal<br />

is to make us look like better versions of<br />

ourselves, not like everyone else. “I really<br />

believe injectables are an art,” Chiu says.<br />

“Every single face is different, and there<br />

are vast differences, even culturally, in<br />

how you approach someone. It’s about<br />

enhancing—not changing.”<br />

“WHEN I TALK to patients, new or<br />

established, I’m actually analyzing their<br />

expressions and balance and beauty,”<br />

says New York dermatologist and Mount<br />

Sinai Medical Center associate clinical<br />

professor Ellen Marmur, MD. “By the<br />

time we catch up on our news or introductions,<br />

I already have an idea of what<br />

I might like to offer. I draw out a master<br />

plan with each patient, even using<br />

an iPad painting tool on a photo of the<br />

patient. We start with baby steps and<br />

give touch-ups until we’ve achieved a<br />

uniquely personalized map of what and<br />

where to inject.”<br />

Although it may seem counterintuitive,<br />

or even wasteful, to invest money in<br />

something so deliberately invisible, Marmur<br />

says, “economic analysis has proven<br />

that routine, under-the-radar procedures<br />

pay off over time more than the big, dramatic<br />

antiaging procedures.” No one will<br />

know how we’ve managed to sail through<br />

time so remarkably unravaged. And isn’t<br />

it better to leave them guessing?<br />

OPEN HERE<br />

Florian Summet/Trunk Archive


AIN’T THAT THE TRUTH<br />

There are alternative facts galore when it comes to what to do<br />

and what not to do when getting a round of injectables. Here, the<br />

misconceptions get debunked. By Megan O’Neill<br />

Botox and filler shouldn’t be<br />

cocktailed in the same syringe.<br />

FALSE. New York–based derm Doris Day,<br />

MD, sometimes adds a few units of Botox<br />

into filler and then injects them together<br />

for a sleek, natural-looking outcome. “You<br />

can get some extra tightening,” she says of<br />

mixing in a line-diminishing neurotoxin<br />

so that the combined effect with the filler<br />

yields a smooth surface. “If you want to<br />

soften the lip lines, it’s a combo that diffuses<br />

nicely, and you won’t affect how the<br />

lip moves.”<br />

“One size fits all” when you’re<br />

scheduling Botox and filler.<br />

FALSE. “One size fits none” is Day’s rule for<br />

tune-up regularity. The FDA gauges that<br />

neurotoxins last about four months, while<br />

most soft-tissue fillers endure for about six<br />

months. But some fillers last much longer:<br />

Juvéderm Voluma (made of molecules that<br />

are cross-linked to create a viscous consistency<br />

that’s suited for adding structural<br />

support to the cheeks) and Juvéderm Volbella<br />

(whose molecules are cross-linked<br />

to form a thinner texture that’s better for<br />

filling superficial lines around the lips) can<br />

last up to two years. For Botox and filler,<br />

the stress surrounding, say, a wedding or<br />

work—or being athletic!—can cause the<br />

body to metabolize both substances faster,<br />

so that treatment may be needed sooner<br />

than usual.<br />

Injectables and ultrasound don’t<br />

play well together.<br />

FALSE. AND TRUE. Arkansas-based derm<br />

Missy Clifton, MD, emphasizes the need<br />

to get procedures done in proper order:<br />

If she’s administering a deep-heat treatment,<br />

such as Thermage (radio frequency)<br />

or Ultherapy (ultrasound), she does<br />

it first, then waits a few minutes for skin<br />

to come back to its normal temperature<br />

before going ahead with filler and Botox.<br />

Meanwhile, New York–based derm Robert<br />

Anolik, MD, separates such procedures<br />

and injections by a few days. “In the scenario<br />

of a new patient coming in who’s never<br />

had anything done, I’d inject Botox and<br />

then have the patient come in after three<br />

to seven days”—the time it takes neurotoxins<br />

to reach full effect—for Ultherapy<br />

or Thermage, he says. “I like the skin to be<br />

relaxed so that Ultherapy’s or Thermage’s<br />

tightening effects can occur without being<br />

compromised by the skin pulling in the opposite<br />

direction.”<br />

Blow-outs posttreatment are A-OK.<br />

FALSE. New York–based dermatologist Patricia<br />

Wexler, MD, advises patients not to<br />

break a sweat for a full day postfiller, since<br />

upping the heart rate increases circulation<br />

and can cause swelling if hyaluronic acid–<br />

based fillers are exposed to more fluid. But<br />

there are sedentary activities that also,<br />

surprisingly, pose a threat: “Don’t get your<br />

hair done or cook over a stove for at least<br />

four hours; the heat can diffuse Botox,”<br />

says Wexler, even though some derms<br />

no longer consider such activities risky<br />

since injection techniques have evolved.<br />

TRICK OR TREAT?<br />

Before-and-after photos provide key proof of a practitioner’s<br />

skill—except when the proof has been tampered with.<br />

One dermatologist reveals the red flags<br />

1. LIGHTING<br />

“Side lighting<br />

exaggerates every<br />

crease, while headon<br />

lighting can<br />

erase wrinkles<br />

altogether,” says<br />

dermatologist<br />

Robert Anolik,<br />

MD. “Look at the<br />

shadows in both<br />

photos—do they<br />

match? If not,<br />

BEFORE<br />

FAKE<br />

the lighting has<br />

been altered.”<br />

2. MAKEUP<br />

Beauty products<br />

are used to enhance<br />

a feature or<br />

cover a flaw. “If<br />

makeup is used<br />

only in the ‘after’<br />

photo, don’t believe<br />

the comparison,”<br />

Anolik says.<br />

AFTER<br />

She also forbids shoe shopping (bending<br />

down can upset Botox placement), flying<br />

(the change in altitude exerts added<br />

pressure that can be problematic for fresh<br />

Botox and filler, which both need time to<br />

integrate into the face), and high-altitude<br />

skiing (ski goggles pressing against your<br />

forehead can cause filler to clump) within<br />

the same time frame.<br />

You can help extend your Botox.<br />

TRUE. In a study published in Dermatologic<br />

Surgery in 2015, researchers separated<br />

overly square-jawed participants into<br />

two groups: Both received slimming injections<br />

of Botox into their masseter muscles<br />

(the key muscles that move the jaw), but<br />

one group was instructed to do chewing exercises<br />

for weeks afterward, and the other<br />

had no specific instructions. Interestingly,<br />

the group that chomped more experienced<br />

the benefits of Botox longer than the control<br />

group did. “The idea is if we encourage<br />

patients to purposely use their chewing<br />

muscles during the few months when Botox<br />

is active, once the Botox wears off, the masseter<br />

muscles won’t be relied on as much for<br />

chewing,” Anolik says. As a result, they’ll<br />

stay streamlined longer.<br />

3. CAMERA ANGLE<br />

Anolik advises that<br />

unless you’re viewing<br />

the subject from<br />

the same camera<br />

angle in both shots,<br />

you can’t really<br />

trust the shot.<br />

4. POSE “When<br />

the chin is up, the<br />

neckline looks<br />

better; if it’s down,<br />

BEFORE<br />

NOT FAKE<br />

Robert Anolik,<br />

MD<br />

the neckline looks<br />

worse—the face<br />

looks more jowly,”<br />

Anolik says.<br />

5. SELFIE CULTURE<br />

“Beware of<br />

patient-provided<br />

photos. Filters<br />

are available<br />

with a few clicks,<br />

even on a not-sosmart<br />

phone.”<br />

AFTER


BEAUTY REPORT<br />

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO<br />

The best way to ensure the most refreshed, rejuvenated-looking outcome<br />

after an injection: Brush up on these key protocols before setting foot inside<br />

a professional’s offce. By Megan O’Neill<br />

BE AWARE OF WHERE YOUR<br />

INJECTABLE CAME FROM<br />

Make sure your doctor is an<br />

official vendor of everything<br />

you’re getting injected. Allergan,<br />

Merz, and Galderma are three of the<br />

top manufacturers of neurotoxins<br />

and fillers, and Allergan also makes<br />

the fat-dissolving Kybella. To reduce<br />

the risk of getting a subpar, potentially<br />

dangerous product, some manufacturers’<br />

websites offer a tool to<br />

search by zip code for every licensed<br />

physician who’s obtained their product<br />

legally.<br />

BIN THE BARGAINS<br />

If the price is questionably<br />

low for Botox or filler, you<br />

may be getting a diluted dosage,<br />

says West Islip, New York–based<br />

dermatologist Kavita Mariwalla, MD.<br />

Another possibility is that your doctor<br />

purchased the product from a supplier<br />

in a country such as Canada or<br />

the United Kingdom, where government<br />

price controls keep pharmaceutical<br />

prices substantially lower than<br />

those in the United States. Not only<br />

is it illegal (with very few exceptions)<br />

for doctors to intentionally purchase<br />

medications outside the country for<br />

use on patients within the U.S., manufacturers<br />

also say that unauthorized<br />

suppliers may compromise the effectiveness<br />

and safety of injectables by,<br />

for example, not storing them at the<br />

proper temperature or even offering<br />

counterfeit products.<br />

That said, prices for in-office treatments<br />

tend to be higher in metropolitan<br />

regions, such as New York,<br />

Chicago, and Dallas, where there’s<br />

a greater demand for cosmetic procedures.<br />

To find out the price range<br />

in your area, call around. New York–<br />

based dermatologist Elizabeth Hale,<br />

MD, adds that you’re usually better<br />

off with a doctor who bases his or her<br />

fee on how many units of product are<br />

used, rather than how many different<br />

zones of the face are injected. “All the<br />

muscles in the face are intertwined,<br />

and even when I treat, say, just the ‘11’<br />

lines between the brows, I always put<br />

a tiny bit in the forehead to balance<br />

things out—I don’t count that as two<br />

[separate] zones.”<br />

BLOOD-THINNING MEDS<br />

AREN’T THE ONLY THING TO<br />

AVOID PRE-INJECTION<br />

Most Botox and filler veterans<br />

know to lay off anticoagulants<br />

such as aspirin and ibuprofen before<br />

treatment, since those types of drugs<br />

hinder blood clotting and increase<br />

the risk of bruising should the needle<br />

nick a blood vessel. But Manhattan<br />

dermatologist Patricia Wexler, MD,<br />

has a longer list of things to forgo, including<br />

some seemingly innocuous<br />

pantry staples. “No fish oil, multivitamins,<br />

green tea, cinnamon, ginger,<br />

and red wine a full week before<br />

treatment,” she says. “Antioxidants,<br />

though not all of them, can increase<br />

the fragility of blood vessels and prevent<br />

clotting.” Ask your MD at least<br />

two weeks ahead of time for a full list<br />

of what to avoid.<br />

A CONSULTATION IS CRUCIAL<br />

“The person performing the<br />

injection should have you<br />

smile and frown and raise<br />

your eyebrows,” Hale says. “An experienced<br />

professional is carefully evaluating<br />

you that whole time to see how<br />

different areas of your face naturally<br />

move, so that he or she can keep you<br />

looking refreshed instead of expres-<br />

“No fish oil, multivitamins,<br />

green tea,<br />

cinnamon, ginger,<br />

and red wine a full<br />

week before treatment,”<br />

Wexler says.<br />

sionless.” Some derms like to ask patients<br />

to talk about something they’re<br />

passionate about to gauge facial<br />

movement. You should also be given<br />

a thorough health assessment prior to<br />

the injection. Certain antibiotics, specifically<br />

in the aminoglycoside category,<br />

like gentamicin (prescribed for<br />

bacterial infections), can increase the<br />

potency of neurotoxins. (To avoid risk,<br />

don’t receive treatment for the duration<br />

of your antibiotic prescription.)<br />

Worst-case scenario: You end up with<br />

a droopy lid, according to Mariwalla.<br />

BRUISES CAN BE UNDONE<br />

Neurotoxins generally require<br />

finer needles and are usually<br />

placed more superficially<br />

than fillers, but any injection could<br />

potentially hit a vessel, causing blood<br />

to pool beneath the skin and form an<br />

unattractive black-and-blue blotch.<br />

Fortunately, many dermatology practices,<br />

including Hale’s, offer a nextday<br />

complimentary vascular laser<br />

treatment, which breaks down pooled<br />

blood into smaller particles, thereby<br />

greatly diminishing bruises within 24<br />

hours. “It’s a good idea to ask up front<br />

if whoever you’re going to offers it,”<br />

Hale says. “Our patients take a lot of<br />

comfort in knowing they can come<br />

back for that.”<br />

NOT ALL FILLERS<br />

ARE CREATED EQUAL<br />

“Never get silicone. It’s the<br />

one filler we see the most<br />

complications from,” says Mariwalla<br />

of one injectable that’s occasionally<br />

used—but not FDA approved—to<br />

fill wrinkles in the face. Unlike malleable<br />

hyaluronic acid–based fillers,<br />

which can be absorbed by the body<br />

and will eventually break down,<br />

silicone is a synthetic material that<br />

can’t be metabolized and can harden<br />

over time, creating unsightly,<br />

uneven bulges. “It’s permanent, and<br />

it does not age well with you,” Mariwalla<br />

says.


Sabine Villiard/Trunk Archive<br />

INSTANT MESSAGING<br />

There’s a new movement in the beauty world, starring antiaging<br />

concoctions made to be blended at home. But is skin care really more<br />

effective when it’s freshly mixed? By Olivia Stren<br />

In my bathroom, I’m whipping up a DIY<br />

face mask—one that doesn’t involve kitchen<br />

staples like yogurt or egg whites (and, at<br />

$420, costs a bit more). I open a gold-lidded<br />

jar of Lancôme Absolue L’Extrait Ultimate<br />

Rose Serum Mask and follow the instructions,<br />

combining, in what looks like a doll’s<br />

tea saucer, a vial of serum plus a spoonful of<br />

pearlescent pink beads containing Lancôme’s<br />

proprietary rose extracts. The pearls, which<br />

have been bioengineered by grace of 11 patents,<br />

dissolve as I stir, releasing their precious<br />

skin-softening cargo. And as I spread<br />

this confection on my face with the abandon<br />

of a tycoon heaping caviar on a cracker, a<br />

scene in an episode of Louis C.K.’s show Louie<br />

comes to mind. A father of two girls, Louie<br />

talks about the moment after he secures his<br />

children in the back seat of the car, closes<br />

the door, and walks toward the driver’s seat.<br />

This brief amble, he riffs—when the kids<br />

are, for those few blessed seconds, quiet,<br />

fed, safe—is a Carnival cruise. I’m sorry to<br />

say, as the mother of a two-year-old, that<br />

I can relate. Drugstore runs pass for “me<br />

time,” and a shower can feel like a sojourn at<br />

Canyon Ranch. As my son snoozes and my<br />

face is scented like a flower garden, I feel,<br />

momentarily, relaxed and nourished. It’s<br />

better than a cruise.<br />

The act of mixing the Lancôme mask<br />

gives it a pleasurable, ritualistic appeal, but<br />

this make-it-fresh approach is actually more<br />

about supercharging results than about ceremony.<br />

And as with the farm-to-fork megamovement,<br />

this trend is flourishing in the<br />

land of skin care. The logic: Some popular<br />

skin-care ingredients are volatile and can<br />

lose potency when combined into formulas.<br />

So keeping these active ingredients in<br />

protective quarantine until the moment of<br />

application—“the technology of separating<br />

and protecting the extract until released,”<br />

as Macrene Alexiades, MD, PhD, founder of<br />

Dermatology & Laser Surgery Center of New<br />

York, says about Lancôme’s rose-pearl-andserum<br />

meet-cute—helps to safeguard and<br />

optimize their efficacy.<br />

The most wildly unstable ingredient is<br />

vitamin C (ascorbic acid), making it your<br />

routine’s most high-maintenance star. The<br />

powerful antioxidant stimulates collagen<br />

and evens out mottled hyperpigmentation<br />

by interfering with the oxidative processes<br />

necessary to form melanin, so skin-care companies<br />

have long grappled with how to best<br />

stabilize it in order to capitalize on its properties.<br />

“Of all the popular skin-care ingredients,<br />

vitamin C has the shortest shelf life by<br />

a very large margin,” says cosmetic chemist<br />

Stephen Alain Ko. Ascorbic acid oxidizes and<br />

degrades—losing its potency—when it hits<br />

the air or meets with water, heat, or ultraviolet<br />

light. It remains most stable in dry powder<br />

form. But on its own, the powder won’t penetrate<br />

your skin, so blending it with a liquid<br />

is the most effective way of getting it past the<br />

skin’s barrier.<br />

This equation is what inspired Janet Pardo,<br />

senior vice president of global product<br />

development at Clinique, to create the company’s<br />

Fresh Pressed Daily Booster With<br />

Pure Vitamin C 10%. The prescription: two<br />

drops, twice a day, for seven days, to fasttrack<br />

a brightened, rejuvenated complexion.<br />

“This is de-aging for the impatient!” she tells<br />

me energetically, in a way that suggests that<br />

181


impatience may be something she’s familiar<br />

with. The product, the company claims,<br />

works immediately: In-house studies show<br />

that skin is 36 percent brighter after one<br />

use. After a month, age spots are reduced by<br />

32 percent, and lines and wrinkles by 43 percent;<br />

skin appears visibly lifted by 41 percent.<br />

It’s the dual-chamber package, Pardo explains,<br />

that helps to deliver these results. One<br />

lightproof chamber protects the dry vitamin<br />

C powder from oxidization, and a neighboring<br />

chamber contains a serum rife with peptides<br />

as well as molasses, mulberry root, and<br />

grapefruit extracts—soothing, cell-renewing<br />

dancing partners to the powder. Press a button,<br />

shake, and the two mix into a measured<br />

single dose of ultrapotent vitamin C emulsion,<br />

ready to be applied straight to the skin or<br />

added to the moisturizer of your choice.<br />

Other cosmetic favorites—vitamin A,<br />

green tea, resveratrol—may have their own<br />

stability issues but don’t require such careful<br />

handling. For instance, Ko explains, green<br />

tea contains ECGC, a polyphenol that degrades<br />

from 5 to 10 percent every month—a<br />

slow rate of breakdown that makes only the<br />

most negligible difference to the user.<br />

Jasmi Bonnén, founder of indie line Nuori,<br />

learned in her former tenure as a marketing<br />

executive at L’Oréal Paris that the majority<br />

of skin-care products are designed to last on<br />

shelves for two and a half years. But time,<br />

like air and water, can in some cases be detrimental<br />

to potency. Hence the use of common<br />

preservatives such as tetrasodium EDTA and<br />

phenoxyethanol; they not only work to protract<br />

a product’s life-span but also fight off<br />

bacteria and potentially harmful microor-<br />

ganisms. But Bonnén divined a solution that<br />

1<br />

2<br />

would negate the need for synthetic preservatives.<br />

She fashions freshly blended products<br />

in small batches and sells skin care in the<br />

same way you might sell cold-pressed juice—<br />

to be consumed quickly, with attention to<br />

its “use by” date. Nuori’s Supreme-C Serum<br />

also comes in a dual-chamber package: A<br />

tiny vial holds 100 percent vitamin C powder,<br />

and another contains a serum replete with<br />

plant-based, free radical–neutralizing ferulic<br />

acid. Like all Nuori products, it’s blended<br />

every 12 weeks in a factory in the countryside<br />

outside Copenhagen, and if it’s not sold by<br />

stores within three months, it’s replaced with<br />

a fresh batch.<br />

None of this means the moisturizers and<br />

premixed vitamin C products we’ve been using<br />

for years are useless. This is just the latest<br />

way formulators have found to stabilize and<br />

deliver antiaging powerhouse ingredients.<br />

To wit: SkinCeuticals’ dermatologist-beloved<br />

vitamin C serum, C E Ferulic, uses ferulic<br />

acid, not fancy packaging, as a vitamin C<br />

stabilizer. It’s a potent union, explains Kavita<br />

Mariwalla, MD, a West Islip, New York–based<br />

dermatologist. “It turns out that .5 percent<br />

ferulic acid with 15 percent vitamin C and<br />

1 percent vitamin E increases the efficacy of<br />

vitamin C eightfold, which is very useful for<br />

the reduction of photodamage.”<br />

I’m wary of trends, but the intuitive logic<br />

of freshness over its alternative is persuasive.<br />

And frankly, I could use a bit of freshening.<br />

It’s spring, but my complexion appears to<br />

have lost the memo, continuing to assume<br />

the undertones of sidewalk slush. Author Jill<br />

Kargman, in praise of pallor, once told the<br />

New York Times, “I want to look like a dead<br />

body.” I don’t. I strive to look alive. So, for a<br />

few weeks, I mask with rose oil<br />

and binge on Clinique’s booster<br />

and Nuori’s serum. My skin,<br />

flirting with that long-lost look of<br />

the rested, does appear brighter,<br />

more petite of pore, more radiant—as<br />

if my face, if not the rest<br />

of me, has just returned from a<br />

Carnival cruise.<br />

Go with your own glow<br />

3<br />

1. When combined, HANACURE<br />

All-in-One Facial Mask’s Lifting<br />

Serum and Gelling Solution<br />

have a tightening effect on skin.<br />

2. CLINIQUE Fresh Pressed Daily<br />

Booster delivers a blast of highpotency<br />

vitamin C with every pump.<br />

3. LANCÔME Absolue L’Extrait<br />

Ultimate Rose Serum Mask pearls<br />

emulsify when mixed with serum<br />

so that their active ingredients are<br />

released just prior to application.<br />

Devon Jarvis/Studio D<br />

182


T o A B looMing G ood M other’s D ay<br />

Jo Malone london Boutiques, saks FiFth avenue | JoMalone.coM


AVAILABLE AT MACYÕS<br />

Feel extraordinary


This is how much of a perfectionist<br />

Frédéric Malle is: When<br />

he tests fragrances for his brand<br />

Editions de Parfums, he wears<br />

each sample on a different part<br />

of his arm for eight hours at a<br />

time, periodically taking notes.<br />

(The best spot? The warm<br />

pulse point inside the wrist. “I<br />

never put fragrance on top of<br />

my hand,” he says, “because it<br />

always smells bad.”) Then he’ll<br />

have someone else spritz on a<br />

scent and walk in front of him,<br />

“so I can be sure there’s a trail<br />

seven feet away.” To prep an eau<br />

for launch, he’ll often try it on<br />

his skin in New York, and again<br />

in Paris. “Because the air doesn’t<br />

smell the same,” he says. If it<br />

works in both locales, it’s a go.<br />

When Malle founded Editions<br />

de Parfums in 2000, he was the<br />

first to give perfumers (who so<br />

often toil behind the scenes)<br />

top billing, putting their names<br />

on the bottles and celebrating<br />

them as artists. The unique,<br />

often iconic results of their work<br />

(think Dominique Ropion’s<br />

alluring Carnal Flower) made<br />

Frédéric<br />

Malle<br />

SCENT-SATIONAL!<br />

The king of niche, in-the-know perfumery is getting<br />

“big and beautiful.” On the occasion of his ninth<br />

store opening, Frédéric Malle tells April Long how<br />

to find a scent you want to go to bed with<br />

Malle the de facto father of modern<br />

niche perfumery. He now<br />

has eight stand-alone stores—a<br />

ninth opens in L.A. this month—<br />

and has branched out into home<br />

scents and body care. “You can<br />

be big and beautiful,” he says,<br />

“as long as you stay true to your<br />

story and your beliefs. I’ve made<br />

a promise to the perfumers never<br />

to betray them, and a promise<br />

to myself never to do a market<br />

test–oriented fragrance, ever.”<br />

What are your thoughts on the<br />

explosion of niche perfumery?<br />

It’s a much more interesting<br />

world than it was. When we<br />

started, perfumery was dying, in<br />

a way. It was made by people in<br />

the mass-market industry who<br />

were asking perfumers to make<br />

one-size-fits-all fragrances.<br />

So there’s been this reaction to<br />

that, and some very creative fragrances<br />

have come out of it. The<br />

public has also become much<br />

more educated. People smell<br />

good on the street again!<br />

What’s the key to a great eau?<br />

It’s very simple. When I make a<br />

fragrance, I want it to make the<br />

person who wears it sexier. You<br />

can be sexy in many different<br />

ways, but you still have to smell<br />

like a human being. A lot of<br />

flower scents stay on top of people,<br />

like they’re wearing a room<br />

spray. But the classics enhance<br />

the skin and generate sex appeal.<br />

What’s the defining aesthetic<br />

now, scent-wise?<br />

People are looking for big<br />

volume, particularly with dark<br />

woods, like patchouli and amber.<br />

People are relearning what<br />

quality means, and obvious<br />

quality in a scent often comes<br />

from those types of notes—so<br />

there’s been a move away from<br />

watery, transparent fragrances.<br />

What fragrances have had the<br />

biggest impact on you?<br />

I was brought up by a mother<br />

who worked for Dior, so the<br />

original Miss Dior and Diorissimo<br />

were like the yin and yang<br />

of femininity for me. And when<br />

I was very young, I fell in love<br />

with so many girls.… I saw them<br />

in three dimensions because of<br />

their scents. I fell in love with<br />

a girl who wore Paris by Yves<br />

Saint Laurent, and there was an<br />

innocence about her. But I also<br />

fell in love with a girl who wore<br />

Shalimar, and there was nothing<br />

innocent about her. You have to<br />

match the right fragrance with<br />

the right person, and then, together,<br />

they become irresistible.<br />

How do I know what’s right<br />

for me?<br />

It’s instinctual. It’s important to<br />

know who you are; I’m not going<br />

to become Baryshnikov. I wish!<br />

“It takes a great perfumer and<br />

a lot of money to get a floral<br />

aldehyde right,” Malle says.<br />

Frédéric Malle Editions de<br />

Parfums Superstitious, crafted<br />

by Ropion, nails it.<br />

1 2<br />

3 4<br />

THE WORLD’S SEXIEST<br />

EAUX, ACCORDING TO MALLE:<br />

1. FRÉDÉRIC MALLE EDITIONS DE<br />

PARFUMS MAURICE ROUCEL MUSC<br />

RAVAGEUR: “When it launched,<br />

it was the opposite of prevailing<br />

trends. Everyone wanted to copy<br />

Dior J’adore, and here was this big,<br />

mean oriental with a flower inside.<br />

It was really dirty-minded, in the<br />

nicest way, and it became our first<br />

best-seller.” 2. NINA RICCI L’AIR<br />

DU TEMPS: “A false-innocent floral<br />

perfume ([it smells like] carnations)<br />

mixed with magnetic musk.”<br />

3. GUERLAIN SHALIMAR: “The<br />

perfect alliance of amber, vanilla,<br />

and animalistic notes. Fire in a<br />

bottle.” 4. ESTÉE LAUDER YOUTH-<br />

DEW: “Deep, spicy, and mysterious.”<br />

But I’m not. You have to find a<br />

fragrance you’re comfortable<br />

with physically—you want to<br />

go to bed smelling like it, or put<br />

it on when you step out of the<br />

shower. Avoid trying to smell<br />

like your BFF or someone you<br />

admire, because then you’re<br />

going to appear as if you were<br />

wearing someone else’s clothes.<br />

How interconnected are our<br />

tastes in fragrance and fashion?<br />

There are very dressed-up<br />

fragrances, like Superstitious<br />

[Malle’s new collaboration with<br />

former Lanvin designer Alber<br />

Elbaz], which is like a couture<br />

dress. But, just like Loulou de la<br />

Falaise used to wear a couture<br />

Saint Laurent jacket with some<br />

beads and a pair of jeans,<br />

maybe you can pull off wearing<br />

Superstitious with sweatpants<br />

and still be yourself—and be<br />

superelegant. Everything is<br />

an equation.<br />

185


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ONE BRAND: A WORLD OF OIL-INFUSED BEAUTY


NEWS<br />

FROM THE<br />

WORLD<br />

OF HEALTH<br />

AND<br />

FITNESS<br />

PLUGGED IN<br />

The most in-the-know woman in NYC<br />

wellness shares her fit list<br />

From her perch as marketing director<br />

for the ultrachic athleisure brand Bandier,<br />

Ashleigh Hults sees everything<br />

from Nike’s top-secret compression<br />

tights to the latest designer fitness<br />

collabs before anyone even knows to<br />

whisper about them. With her own<br />

side hustle as founder of Poolside (a<br />

fragrance and beach accessories line),<br />

how does someone who has access to<br />

it all optimize her energies?<br />

BASIC TRAINING “Dance is my<br />

go-to cardio. It’s an amazing fullbody<br />

workout and a powerful form<br />

of expression.”<br />

RECENT OBSESSION “Infrared<br />

saunas heat you from the inside and<br />

cause profuse sweating. I’ve been<br />

going to Higher Dose, and when<br />

I can’t slip away, they sell a body<br />

blanket that you can wrap up in for<br />

an at-home session.”<br />

Hults<br />

THE NEXT BIG THING Ultracor’s<br />

star leggings (above): “Bandier<br />

partnered with Ultracor to rerelease<br />

these unbelievably popular<br />

leggings in new colors. They’re<br />

made of an eight-way-stretch Italian<br />

fabric, and you just want to live<br />

in them—a few clients even somehow<br />

got my cell and were texting<br />

me to try to sneak off the wait list!”<br />

ESSENTIALS “I’m devoted to the<br />

Clean Program, a cleanse that<br />

eliminates bloaters like caffeine.<br />

I always keep Moon Juice Beauty<br />

Dust or Sun Potion Ashwagandha<br />

on hand to mix into my tea or water<br />

to get that brain kick. Glossier face<br />

mist is key for midday, postworkout<br />

skin refreshment, and I always<br />

keep an extra pair of leggings in<br />

my bag in case I want to hop into a<br />

yoga class.”<br />

HEAD GEAR<br />

In honor of<br />

National Bike<br />

Month, a few of our<br />

favorite helmets,<br />

designed to protect<br />

your best accessory<br />

TRIPLE 8 Gotham<br />

Darklight is matte gray<br />

in sunlight and glows<br />

reflective silver at night.<br />

BERN Team Brighton<br />

passes all bike and snow<br />

safety certifications,<br />

making it suitable for both<br />

streets and slopes.<br />

GIRO Sutton includes a<br />

vent that doubles as a<br />

lock port, so the helmet<br />

can be clipped to the bike<br />

for safekeeping.<br />

HAPPY<br />

MEALS<br />

What if there were a way to<br />

incorporate cookie dough<br />

into your workout plan?<br />

According to a study published<br />

in late 2016 in the<br />

Journal of Applied Physiology,<br />

consuming carbohydrates<br />

during or after intense<br />

exercise of 90 minutes<br />

or more was found to not<br />

only improve performance<br />

but also reduce the body’s<br />

stress response, keeping the<br />

immune system in better<br />

balance. Lily Kunin, author<br />

of Good Clean Food and the<br />

blog Clean Food Dirty City,<br />

suggests a postgym bowl<br />

of sweet potatoes, steel-cut<br />

oats, or frozen bananas with<br />

almond butter. For a midworkout<br />

energy bite? “I make<br />

a ‘raw cookie dough’ bar that<br />

is blended cashews, coconut<br />

flakes, and rolled oats.” Sold.<br />

ANTE UP Remember when kale juice seemed weird? L.A. has just raised the bar. Jing<br />

City, a popular drink at natural grocery Erewhon Market’s juice bar, contains ant–yes,<br />

the insect–and deer antler extracts. Staples of traditional Chinese medicine, these tonics<br />

are believed to improve energy and longevity (little research has been done on either<br />

ingredient). “They are best taken daily in either capsule or tincture form or in tonic<br />

beverages and nutritious recipes,” says Melody Zara, senior tonic herbalist for Dragon<br />

Herbs, which manufactures the (definitely not vegan) supplements. What price vitality?<br />

At $30 a pop, a daily Jing City would run you $10,950 a year.<br />

DRAGON<br />

HERBS<br />

Deer Antler<br />

Drops and<br />

Mountain<br />

Ant tinctures<br />

Model: Kyle Schneider; Hults: Audrey<br />

Amelie Rudolf; Kunin and cashew bars:<br />

Gemma and Andrew Ingalls<br />

188


NIGHT<br />

MOVES<br />

With soft skin, sparkling<br />

eyes, and a tantalizing<br />

pout, May beauty is all<br />

about kicking spring off<br />

to a fiery start.<br />

By Cotton Codinha<br />

SEVENTH HEAVEN<br />

Looking for a dose of<br />

euphoria? Red Flower<br />

Aromatherapeutic<br />

Body Oil in Icelandic<br />

Moonflower promises<br />

silky skin, insomnia<br />

relief, and an influx<br />

of joy with just a few<br />

drops added<br />

to a bath.<br />

SPARKLE MOTION<br />

Smoky eyes get an update with a<br />

generous helping of shimmer in<br />

Stila Magnificent Metals Glitter & Glow<br />

Liquid Eye Shadow (shown in Molten<br />

Midnight), a highly pigmented shadow<br />

that goes on slick and dries to a<br />

long-lasting powder.<br />

PEACE, LOVE, AND FLOWERS<br />

To celebrate the tenth anniversary<br />

of the beloved berry and jasmine<br />

fragrance Daisy, Marc Jacobs<br />

rolls out a limited-edition, all-white<br />

bottle, along with a brand-new<br />

spokeswoman, Kaia Gerber.<br />

KEEP IT SIMPLE<br />

Charlotte Gainsbourg<br />

(actress, singer, Lars<br />

von Trier muse) has<br />

collaborated with Nars<br />

on a collection that<br />

Francophiles will covet,<br />

starring perfected basics<br />

like Kohliner in Cours<br />

Du Soir—insouciance<br />

optional.<br />

YOU RED MY MIND<br />

Layer the velvety matte Tom<br />

Ford Shade and Illuminate<br />

Lips kit (shown in Tantalize)<br />

to create a multidimensional<br />

custom kiss, or use either<br />

shade alone for a sweet Betty<br />

or sultry Veronica effect.<br />

194<br />

MIDAS’S TOUCH<br />

Aerin Tangier Vanille D’Or<br />

Eau de Parfum updates the<br />

original best-selling scent<br />

with more-intense notes of<br />

Madagascar vanilla, Bulgarian<br />

rose, and sandalwood,<br />

resulting in a musk perfect for<br />

steamy nights.<br />

PLUM CRAZY<br />

California minimalist beauty<br />

brand Lilah B. expands on its<br />

popular lavender-infused<br />

B. Kissed Lip Balm with three<br />

tinted shades (shown in<br />

B. Savvy), housed in the brand’s<br />

signature packaging.<br />

Devon Jarvis/Studio D


AN AWAKING NIGHTMARE<br />

Rachael Combe was coming apart under the burden of unrelenting insomnia.<br />

Nothing helped—until one day her dentist, of all people, told her she had the socalled<br />

“young, thin, beautiful women’s sleep disorder.” Flattered, she investigated<br />

I’d wake in the middle of the night, gasping<br />

for breath as though surfacing from a near<br />

drowning. My heart would be racing, my skin<br />

clammy, my organs suffused with grief and<br />

fear, like I’d been pickled in some bitter brine<br />

while I slept, and now, at 2 or 3 a.m., I was<br />

fighting my way out of the jar. I’d then proceed<br />

to lie awake for hours, my life flashing<br />

before my eyes—but only the sad, bad, mad<br />

parts. Even the happy scenes curdled in this<br />

film—I was screwing up my children, ruining<br />

my marriage, wasting my life. And my life!<br />

Was I dying? This gasping and sweating in<br />

the night—something was wrong with me.<br />

The episodes started in my early thirties<br />

and went on for years, gradually progressing<br />

in severity and frequency until, according to<br />

my Fitbit, I was averaging only four hours of<br />

sleep a night. I’d always been an insomniac,<br />

but this was a new level of hell. In the past,<br />

I’d prided myself on being an efficient, hard<br />

worker. Now I could barely keep my mind<br />

on a task for 15 minutes. My body began to<br />

break down: My ankle gave out mysteriously,<br />

and I had to wear an orthopedic boot for<br />

months. I ached everywhere. I developed rosacea.<br />

It became hard to eat out because everything<br />

but the plainest food made me sick.<br />

I am fortunate to have good health insurance,<br />

and I put it to use. I went to my gynecologist:<br />

Was it perimenopause? No, she<br />

said, just stress and postpartum hormones.<br />

(I gave birth to my fourth child during this<br />

period—another red herring that threw<br />

everyone off: “Of course you’re tired! Of<br />

course you feel crazy! You are crazy.”) I went<br />

to my general practitioner: Was it cancer,<br />

Lyme disease, hyperthyroidism, early-onset<br />

Alzheimer’s? He tested me for all of them.<br />

Nope. I went to a gastroenterologist and<br />

a nutritionist, who failed to find anything<br />

wrong with my stomach or diet. I went to<br />

a psychiatrist, who diagnosed anxiety and<br />

prescribed sleeping pills, which did not help<br />

me get more sleep but did make me feel more<br />

Eric Ogden/Trunk Archive<br />

196


cotton-headed the day after I took them.<br />

I followed all the “sleep hygiene” advice:<br />

no naps, getting out of bed at the same time<br />

every day, no caffeine, no screens an hour<br />

before bed. I exercised daily. I took lavender<br />

baths, hung blackout curtains, wore a sleep<br />

mask and earplugs. I took a seminar on<br />

stress reduction. I meditated. I tried sleeping<br />

in a different room from my husband.<br />

I tried giving up wheat, dairy, sugar, and—<br />

finally, painfully—wine. Nothing worked.<br />

And then I crunched through the night<br />

guard I wore to stop me from grinding<br />

my teeth at night. Oddly enough, it was<br />

my dentist, Michael Gelb, who diagnosed<br />

It sounded too good to be true: Curing<br />

my sleep disorder would cure my<br />

anxiety, stomach problems, everything.<br />

my problem when I went to get a new<br />

one. He peered down my throat and then<br />

motioned for his assistant to come over.<br />

“Look at that big tongue! No wonder!” he<br />

exclaimed. He turned to me. “This is easy.<br />

I know what you have. You’re waking up<br />

in a panic? In a cold sweat? Like someone<br />

just threw a rock through your window?”<br />

he asked. Yes, yes, yes, I told him. “You<br />

have low blood pressure? Cold feet?” Uh,<br />

yeah. “You have anxiety?” Yes.… “You had<br />

your wisdom teeth out? Were you ever<br />

told you needed a palate expander as a<br />

kid?” Umm…yes? “You have UARS. It’s the<br />

young, thin, beautiful women’s sleep disorder.<br />

You should write about it!”<br />

In the 15 years I’ve known Dr. Gelb, he<br />

has never steered me wrong—an expert in<br />

jaw pain and snoring, he’s cured both my<br />

TMJ and my husband’s log-sawing. And yet,<br />

he’s such a smooth salesman, such an adept<br />

self-promoter, and so quick to diagnose<br />

problems that can only be resolved with<br />

$4,000 retainers, I’m sometimes inclined to<br />

disbelieve him. I couldn’t hold my freakishly<br />

huge tongue in check: “Dr. Gelb, please.<br />

The ‘beautiful women’s sleep disorder?’ ” I<br />

laughed. “That’s not a thing.”<br />

Gelb snap-snapped at his assistant, who<br />

printed out an inch-thick stack of research<br />

articles from reputable journals. Turns<br />

out, UARS is a thing. Upper airway resistance<br />

syndrome was identified in adults<br />

nearly 25 years ago by medical researchers<br />

at Stanford University. It’s a form of sleepdisordered<br />

breathing in which people get<br />

slightly less air than they should because<br />

some part of their airway is too narrow<br />

and—though they’re not actually in danger—their<br />

body perceives they’re suffocating<br />

and wakes them up.<br />

The American Academy of Sleep Medicine<br />

categorizes UARS as a form of obstructive<br />

sleep apnea syndrome (OSA)—but<br />

UARS’s effects are subtler and its diagnosis<br />

trickier than the apnea most people are<br />

familiar with. Because the research on it<br />

is broad but rather shallow—and includes<br />

few randomized, controlled trials—sleep<br />

experts disagree about almost every aspect<br />

of the disorder, from whether it’s distinct<br />

from OSA to the best therapies to ameliorate<br />

it. The exact prevalence of UARS isn’t<br />

known—in part because it’s thought to be<br />

so underdiagnosed—but the National Sleep<br />

Foundation estimates that 18 million Americans<br />

suffer from apnea overall, two or three<br />

men for every woman.<br />

That said, there are some established<br />

facts about UARS: While OSA is associated<br />

with being older, heavier, and male, UARS<br />

sufferers are typically younger, leaner, and<br />

predominantly female, according to epidemiological<br />

data. A petite build may be a risk<br />

factor, because smaller bodies have smaller<br />

airways, which can be more easily crowded<br />

by adenoids, the tongue, and the uvula, as<br />

well as relaxation of the throat during sleep.<br />

(And while the literature is silent on the topic<br />

of beauty and UARS, one physician told<br />

me anecdotally that the facial structure that<br />

can put a woman at risk for UARS is sometimes<br />

linked with beauty in our culture: a<br />

small jaw and nose.) High blood pressure<br />

commonly occurs in tandem with OSA; the<br />

opposite is true for UARS, in which blood<br />

pressure can be so low that it leads to fainting<br />

and chronically cold extremities. UARS<br />

patients don’t always snore or stop breathing—symptoms<br />

a bed partner would likely<br />

notice—but they tend to complain of greater<br />

fatigue than people with standard apnea do.<br />

The reason for the excess fatigue is the<br />

subject of debate. One theory is that people<br />

with UARS are more exhausted because they<br />

awaken at the first ragged breath, while the<br />

“classic” apnea sufferer may sleep through<br />

his funky breathing—unaware he’s snoring<br />

and even, at times, not breathing at all.<br />

Undercutting that hypothesis, though,<br />

are sleep studies that show that tiredness<br />

isn’t necessarily related to the number of<br />

apneas or arousals patients experience—<br />

and some patients may have fairly normallooking<br />

sleep studies but still suffer from<br />

brutal fatigue. These findings have prompted<br />

some scientists to bore in on the fact<br />

that UARS coexists with a host of other psychiatric<br />

and somatic disorders—anxiety,<br />

depression, posttraumatic stress, irritable<br />

197


CHRISTIAN TAYLOR<br />

2 x WORLD CHAMPION<br />

2 x OLYMPIC GOLD MEDALIST<br />

bowel syndrome, ADHD, and fibromyalgia,<br />

among others. They’ve suggested that the<br />

exhaustion—and somatic disorders—aren’t<br />

caused by a shortage of sleep but by the nervous<br />

system’s overreaction to the disordered<br />

breathing. If that’s true, treating the irregular<br />

breathing could mean the anxiety or<br />

fibromyalgia recedes without doing anything<br />

else.<br />

It frankly sounded too good to be true: Not<br />

only did I have Gelb’s “pretty girl’s sleep disorder,”<br />

but curing it would eliminate every<br />

ailment I’ve ever had. I felt like one of those<br />

parents who can’t face that their child has<br />

a behavior problem and so, instead, blame<br />

gluten or vaccines or the kid being “too creative”<br />

for school. On the other hand, I had<br />

nothing to lose except debilitating insomnia,<br />

so I headed to the Stony Brook University<br />

Sleep Disorders Center in Smithtown,<br />

New York, where much of the research on<br />

UARS and somatic disorders has been done.<br />

I walked in fully expecting to be told that<br />

my dentist was a quack and I was a head case.<br />

Instead, Susan Manganaro, MD, took one<br />

look at my history, peered into my mouth,<br />

and agreed with Gelb (although Stony Brook<br />

is abandoning the term UARS—they see<br />

it as a manifestation of OSA and think it’s<br />

misleading to cordon off sufferers just because<br />

they’re mostly thin women). Again, my<br />

tongue was of great interest. “See how it has<br />

ridges on the side?” Manganaro said. “That’s<br />

called scalloping. It means your tongue is<br />

pressing against your teeth because there<br />

isn’t enough room for it.” (I swear, my tongue<br />

doesn’t loll out of my mouth like on the Rolling<br />

Stones album cover.) She said I likely<br />

needed to use a continuous positive airway<br />

pressure machine (CPAP), which would blow<br />

air up my nose and keep my breathing even.<br />

To confirm the diagnosis and then titrate the<br />

machine to the right air pressure, I needed to<br />

do two overnight sleep studies in the hospital.<br />

Those studies—sensors all over my head<br />

and body, a tube up my nose, a camera<br />

watching me while I slept in a Motel 6–ish<br />

room with pastel ocean scenes on the wall—<br />

showed 70 arousals in the 6.5 hours I spent<br />

in bed. I spent two of those hours lying<br />

awake, giving me a “sleep efficiency” rating<br />

of 69 percent (normal is anything over<br />

85 percent). The diagnosis? Moderate sleep<br />

apnea with mild sleep fragmentation.<br />

After some tussling with my health insurer<br />

(Manganaro says insurers seem to prefer<br />

to wait until people develop the calamitous<br />

downstream effects of untreated apnea—<br />

such as high blood pressure and stroke—<br />

rather than pay for preventive measures),<br />

my CPAP machine finally arrived. It looked<br />

like a clock radio, connected by a long tube<br />

to a mask for your face. I had to try five<br />

masks before I found one that didn’t give<br />

me claustrophobia or rub my nostrils so raw<br />

and pink that I looked like a coke-addicted<br />

rabbit when I awoke. Ultimately I settled on<br />

a snazzy ResMed AirFit P10 for Her, size extra-small,<br />

that goes just into the tips of my<br />

nostrils and gives me the appearance of having<br />

a dainty lilac-and-white elephant trunk<br />

dangling off my schnoz. It’s the least sexy<br />

thing I’ve ever worn to bed, outside of the<br />

disposable panties filled with ice packs and<br />

Tucks hemorrhoid pads the hospital gives<br />

you after you have a baby.<br />

I was told it would take a couple of weeks to<br />

get used to the machine, but it took me nearly<br />

two months. It was definitely a “nevertheless,<br />

she persisted” type of situation. At first,<br />

I had to use sleeping pills to be able to fall<br />

asleep with the mask, and I’d often rip it off<br />

in the wee hours. But then the turning point<br />

came: I woke up one morning and realized I’d<br />

slept straight through the night—CPAP success!<br />

But then my heart sank. Where was my<br />

mask? I didn’t feel it on my face; I must have<br />

clawed it off without realizing it. I scanned<br />

my bedside table, looking for my little lilac<br />

elephant…before realizing it was, in fact, still<br />

on my face. I’d acclimated!<br />

Once I was able to wear my CPAP through<br />

the night without sleeping meds, my fatigue<br />

and anxiety just…stopped. Another part of<br />

my brain—the part that had enthusiasm for<br />

work, playing with my kids, even getting errands<br />

done—turned on. It was like I’d been<br />

listening to a fire alarm for decade upon decade<br />

and then, finally, found the button to<br />

switch it off. At my follow-up visit with Manganaro,<br />

my resting heart rate had dropped<br />

from 79 to 60 beats per minute.<br />

My sleep still isn’t perfect, but now all the<br />

stress-reduction and sleep-hygiene tactics<br />

I’d tried in the past make a difference. Caffeine,<br />

wine, and PMS pretty reliably give me<br />

insomnia; exercising and setting my alarm<br />

for the same time every day improve my<br />

sleep. Now I’m no longer a black box, where<br />

nothing I do has the outcomes I expect. I’m<br />

more of a clockwork gumball machine: You<br />

put the quarter in and the happy rainbow<br />

gumballs roll out.<br />

Four months into my treatment, I’m still<br />

stunned by the change. Who is this calm,<br />

elephant-masked woman? I called up Avram<br />

Gold, MD, director of the Stony Brook sleep<br />

center, Manganaro’s boss, and among those


Almost two-thirds of women<br />

experience insomnia at least a<br />

few nights a week, according to a<br />

National Sleep Foundation poll.<br />

who believe that it may not be the extra sleep<br />

that makes people feel better rested—and<br />

just all-around better—but the reduction in<br />

activation of stress hormones. He blames<br />

the olfactory nerve for UARS. “For all mammals,<br />

the nasal passage is one of the fundamental<br />

ways we learn about opportunities<br />

and dangers,” he said. “Think of the rabbit<br />

on the lawn, sniffing to find something to<br />

eat but also sniffing to smell a coming dog.”<br />

The olfactory nerve is directly connected<br />

to the limbic system—the emotional center of<br />

the brain—and senses not only smells but air<br />

pressure. Gold suspects that UARS patients’<br />

limbic systems have come to associate a drop<br />

in air pressure during sleep with danger. For<br />

this connection to form, he postulates, there<br />

must be a stressful sensitizing event, whether<br />

the trauma of war or the strain of getting a<br />

divorce or becoming a parent. And perhaps,<br />

Gold argues, you need to be someone who’s<br />

more reactive to stress to begin with.<br />

Manganaro points out that someone else,<br />

with a different nervous system, could have<br />

sleep-study results similar to mine yet feel<br />

completely fine. Though she has to grade<br />

apnea on a scale of mild to severe for health<br />

insurers, she is less interested in the number<br />

of arousals patients have at night than<br />

in the severity of their symptoms during<br />

the day. “If your brain is responding to the<br />

sleep-disordered breathing as a danger, and<br />

your fight-or-flight system turns on and the<br />

anxiety syndromes start up, it doesn’t matter<br />

how many times an hour you’re waking<br />

up,” she says.<br />

Of course, not everyone is convinced by<br />

Gold and his colleagues. Scientists from<br />

Penn State’s sleep disorder center wrote an<br />

essay in a prominent sleep medicine journal<br />

a few years ago, complaining that his conjectures<br />

are based on small studies without<br />

control groups and that if physicians act on<br />

them without more proof, Gold “will have<br />

a negative impact on the health of our patients,<br />

on our economy, and, not least, on<br />

the credibility of our field.”<br />

It is possible that all the benefits I’ve noticed<br />

are the result of a placebo effect. Placebos<br />

are considered particularly robust in<br />

sleep medicine, accounting for perhaps 50<br />

percent of the response to sleeping pills. One<br />

study found that just telling healthy subjects<br />

they slept well improved their performance<br />

on neurological tasks compared with subjects<br />

who’d been told they slept poorly.<br />

Gold agrees that better studies are needed.<br />

“Sleep medicine is bullshit. We’ve built a<br />

branch of medicine on a very weak foundation,”<br />

he says, referring to the lack of investment<br />

in research. The result of the failure<br />

to fund double-blind, controlled studies, he<br />

contends, is that people whose sleep could<br />

be improved are instead dying of causes that<br />

range from suicide and substance abuse to<br />

cardiovascular disease.<br />

Christian Guilleminault, MD, the Stanford<br />

researcher who identified the UARS<br />

population a quarter century ago, likewise<br />

lamented the dearth of research into milder<br />

forms of apnea. Women’s sleep-disordered<br />

breathing has been especially overlooked,<br />

he says, calling us “the forgotten gender.”<br />

I’m almost embarrassed to admit how<br />

much I believe in Gold’s theories: My experiences<br />

are anecdotal, and I’ve been reporting<br />

on science and health long enough<br />

to know that medicine shouldn’t be a matter<br />

of faith but of data. Yet for the first time in<br />

my life, my symptoms make sense, and I’ve<br />

found a treatment that works. My husband<br />

used to gently tease me for being, as he put<br />

it, “highly calibrated,” as I tried in vain to<br />

come up with something that would relieve<br />

my unrelenting anxiety, insomnia, and irritable<br />

bowel (which, frankly, I believed were<br />

linked, well before I read dozens of papers<br />

on the topic). My husband was right: I was<br />

sensitive and remain so. But in the past, it<br />

was like I was trying to fine-tune an intricate<br />

machine that was on fire. You need to<br />

put out the blaze before you can experiment<br />

with the monkey wrench. I’ve come to think<br />

of the cool breeze from my CPAP machine<br />

as a little air conditioner for my brain. It<br />

turns down the temperature; it cools off my<br />

hot reactions. It gives me the time and peace<br />

to regard the beautiful machine of my body<br />

and mind with gratitude and kindness instead<br />

of fear and disgust.<br />

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SPRING HAIR REPORT<br />

“WHEN I HAD<br />

LONG HAIR, PEOPLE<br />

DIDN’T SEE MY<br />

PERSONALITY.<br />

NOW THEY SAY<br />

MY HAIR REALLY<br />

SUITS ME. IT’S COOL<br />

AND YOUNG.”<br />

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SPIRIT<br />

THE NEW POWER HAIR<br />

EDITED BY EMILY DOUGHERTY AND LEAH WYAR ROMITO<br />

Photographed by David Bellemere | Styled by Anya Ziourova


“I LOVE TO SHAKE<br />

MY HAIR AND HAVE<br />

PEOPLE LOOK AT ME<br />

AND KNOW WHAT<br />

I’M ALL ABOUT:<br />

CONFIDENCE.”<br />

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DRESS AND TOP BY GUCCI.<br />

HOOPS BY DOLCE & GABBANA.


Maybe it’s gradually<br />

dawned on you, or maybe it struck you suddenly—say,<br />

when you were seated at the back<br />

of a packed theater or crammed into a subway<br />

car and took the time to really look at the<br />

dozens of other women gathered before you.<br />

But by now, you’re probably aware that something<br />

big and multifarious is going on with<br />

our hair. We have entered an age where—<br />

rather than duplicating a few stock looks ad<br />

infinitum—women are breaking traditional<br />

rules of presentation and wearing an unprecedented<br />

variety of self-expressive styles,<br />

with courage and joy. See Solange Knowles<br />

on the cover of her latest album, A Seat at the<br />

Table, her mesmerically pretty, long natural<br />

curls bedecked with salon-style duckbill<br />

clips, a sly nod to her own complex relationship<br />

with hair care (or perhaps to her mother<br />

Tina’s years running a Houston beauty parlor?).<br />

Or Meryl Streep, forgoing stiff professional<br />

updos in favor of simple, sophisticated<br />

blow-outs and buns while she increasingly<br />

uses her time in the spotlight to speak up for<br />

justice and human rights. Or—yes, yes, yes—<br />

Zoë Kravitz, with her radiant white braids.<br />

Modern power hair has rapidly evolved to become<br />

a more creative, crafty, and individualized<br />

affair, reflecting our growing desire to<br />

celebrate the advantages of our natural texture<br />

and embrace whatever styles happen to<br />

make us feel strong and happy.<br />

It’s an enormous shift when viewed<br />

through the lens of fashion history. For centuries,<br />

women spent countless hours crafting<br />

looks that might grant them power, whether<br />

political, social, or sexual. In eighteenthcentury<br />

France, women of all classes pumped<br />

animal fats and potato starch into their hair<br />

in an attempt to replicate Marie Antoinette’s<br />

towering pompadour. For most of the nineteenth<br />

century, young Japanese women wore<br />

elaborate waxed chignons—women of high<br />

birth puffed theirs skyward, while courtesans<br />

sculpted theirs outward. During the ’70s and<br />

’80s, women dutifully lopped off their feathered<br />

lengths to get tight, all-business bobs as<br />

soon as they sensed it was time to get serious<br />

about their careers (the shearing of Melanie<br />

Griffith’s magnificent mane in Working<br />

Girl being a prime example). And over the<br />

past decade, we’ve spent ample time and<br />

money cultivating—via extensions, chemicalstraightening<br />

treatments, and standing appointments<br />

at a proliferation of blow-out<br />

bars—the sort of Bachelor/Kardashian-esque<br />

hair (extravagantly long, straight, or precisioncurled)<br />

we’ve long been told men prefer.<br />

Is a departure from such labor-intensive,<br />

conformist styles toward a wider (and, dare<br />

we hope, easier to execute) spectrum a sign<br />

of intersectional female solidarity—a change<br />

related, however tangentially, to the coast-tocoast<br />

sea of pink pussyhats? Perhaps. But the<br />

patriarchy is not, of course, the only culprit:<br />

Research published last year in the journal<br />

Frontiers in Psychology found that women<br />

typically find straight hair more attractive<br />

than wavier hair because they associate it<br />

with youth and health. And another study,


eleased earlier this year by the Perception<br />

Institute, an organization dedicated<br />

to reducing bias and discrimination in the<br />

workplace, found that both white and black<br />

women with smooth, straightened hair exhibited<br />

negative bias toward naturally textured<br />

black hair, consistently rating it less<br />

beautiful, attractive, and professional than<br />

smooth hair.<br />

But while some of these deeply ingrained<br />

and remarkably shallow attitudes and stereotypes<br />

may take time to break down,<br />

Hollywood, the fashion world, and even the<br />

U.S. Army (which earlier this year lifted its<br />

ban on braids and dreadlocks, to the overwhelming<br />

delight of black servicewomen)<br />

are sanctioning more multifaceted definitions<br />

of beauty. “Women in the past wanted<br />

more male approval,” says L.A.-based<br />

stylist Mara Roszak, whose celebrity clients<br />

include Emma Stone, Zoe Saldana,<br />

and Brie Larson. Sure, “there was a time<br />

and place” for long, carefully blown-out<br />

hair—which Roszak herself wore before<br />

coming around to the beauty of her natural<br />

frizz—“but now it isn’t about looking<br />

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ultraradiant. CHRISTOPHE ROBIN Nutritive Mask ($51) and DAVINES Alchemic Conditioner ($29.50) contain pigments to pump up color. RITA<br />

HAZAN NEW YORK Shine Gloss ($26) adds a lacquer-bright finish. Water-resistant BUMBLE AND BUMBLE Color Sticks ($26) hide unwanted grays.


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PURE RESPECT FOR YOUR HAIR


HOME IMPROVEMENT<br />

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DRESS BY BOTTEGA VENETA.<br />

EARRINGS BY HEARTS ON FIRE.<br />

BRACELET BY PIAGET.<br />

“I’M GOING<br />

GRAY, SLOWLY<br />

BUT SURELY.<br />

BUT MY HAIR IS<br />

SO ME. IT IS MY<br />

CHOICE.”


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* No visible flakes with regular use.<br />

** No animal-derived ingredients or byproducts. Formulas not tested on animals.<br />

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PURE RESPECT FOR YOUR HAIR


this specific way that society is telling us is<br />

cool. It’s about embracing your own tastes,<br />

your own texture, who you are.” Roszak<br />

recalls spotting a woman in her seventies<br />

at a recent women’s march “who had this<br />

amazing, beautiful deep purple hair,” she<br />

says. “I have clients who can see right after<br />

a cut that their curl is doing what they want<br />

it to, and they’re like, ‘Okay, I’m good,’ and<br />

they leave with wet hair. Women are feeling<br />

more freedom, and they’re customizing<br />

beauty looks that make them feel<br />

powerful when they go out into the world.<br />

They’re changing the conversation—and<br />

it’s exciting.”<br />

It’s not all about going natural. While<br />

Roszak, who is a L’Oréal Paris hairstylist,<br />

snips soft layers to accentuate natural<br />

texture and unique growth patterns (“layers<br />

make hair happier,” she says), she also<br />

recently steered a brunette friend who’d<br />

been contemplating platinum for years to<br />

a colorist she knew could deliver the desired<br />

“rooty, radical vibe.” The impact of<br />

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defined. OUAI Dry Shampoo Foam ($28) revives lank hair. L’ORÉAL PARIS EverCurl Cleansing Balm ($11.99) conditions with a cocktail of<br />

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PURE RESPECT FOR YOUR HAIR


“EVERY HAIR<br />

COLOR GIVES ME<br />

A NEW ATTITUDE.<br />

I’M GOING TO<br />

GO WHITE-BLOND<br />

NEXT—LIKE<br />

STORM FROM<br />

THE X-MEN.”<br />

HOME IMPROVEMENT<br />

TO KEEP HER PROCESSED<br />

HAIR SHINY, NYC-BASED<br />

MODEL KARINA TRIZOTTI<br />

RELIES ON “A L’ORÉAL<br />

CONDITIONER THAT CAME<br />

WITH THE COLOR,” SHE<br />

SAYS. “IT’S SO GOOD.<br />

I COMBINE IT WITH<br />

COCONUT OIL AND LEAVE<br />

IT ON FOR 30 MINUTES.”<br />

JACKET BY SANDRO.<br />

EARRINGS BY BOTTEGA VENETA.


the switch was profound. Her friend, who<br />

got a choppy bob to accompany her new<br />

white-hot, Debbie Harry–inspired color,<br />

told Roszak afterward, with a mix of pride<br />

and amazement, “I always felt like I was<br />

this person, but I didn’t feel like I actually<br />

represented her—but now I have the hair<br />

that represents who I am.”<br />

The shift isn’t just happening stateside.<br />

In France, hair care has become “all about<br />

individuality and low maintenance,” according<br />

to Paris-based colorist Christophe<br />

Robin. He sees plenty of women who’ve<br />

previously relied on extensions, relaxers,<br />

and the heavy use of hot tools stopping<br />

because such techniques have become “unsustainable.<br />

Most of the time, they ruin the<br />

hair, and they just take too much time.”<br />

Robin encourages clients to stay close to<br />

their natural shades when coloring (cutting<br />

down on frequent root touch-ups) and to<br />

stick with softly layered styles long enough<br />

to grow them out gracefully. “For 30 years,<br />

women have come to me with pictures of<br />

somebody else they want to look like. Now<br />

they just tell me they want comfort and<br />

long-lasting styles—hair they can run their<br />

hands through. They like to be feminine<br />

and sexy, but natural and sophisticated.”<br />

Still, for other women, experimenting<br />

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and rehab ragged ends with amino acid–packed KÉRASTASE Resistance mask ($65). A finishing touch?<br />

SHU UEMURA Hydro-Nourishing Serum ($38) shields against the elements with UV filters, L’ORÉAL<br />

PARIS EverCurl Sculpt & Hold Cream-Gel ($9.99) acts as a featherlight moisturizer, and glow-getter<br />

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“I DIDN’T FALL IN<br />

LOVE WITH MY HAIR<br />

UNTIL I STARTED<br />

MODELING. NOW<br />

I GET BOOKED<br />

BECAUSE OF MY<br />

CURLS.”<br />

HOME IMPROVEMENT<br />

L.A.-BASED MODEL ALLIE SILVA<br />

LOADS HER HIGH-VOLUME HAIR<br />

WITH MOISTURE—“TONS OF<br />

SERUMS AND CONDITIONERS,”<br />

SUCH AS L’ORÉAL PARIS<br />

EVERSLEEK OIL-IN-SERUM<br />

($9.99)—“AND THEN I LET IT<br />

AIR-DRY.”<br />

TOP BY BANANA REPUBLIC.<br />

HOOPS BY ROXANNE ASSOULIN.


with a panoply of hairstyles remains a<br />

great way to blow off steam (all the more<br />

essential in 2017) and explore and express<br />

their own changing aspirations and<br />

identities. Stylist César DeLeön Ramirêz,<br />

global artistic director for Mizani, gets inspired<br />

watching women teach each other<br />

new ways to cut, color, and style. “All you<br />

have to do now is open your phone or laptop<br />

and scroll around—everyone has their<br />

own space where they’re expressing themselves,”<br />

he says. Perhaps all of us could<br />

learn from Ramirêz’s client Taraji P. Henson,<br />

who has fallen for wigs, which give<br />

her the freedom to show up at events every<br />

other week with a different style: “Maybe<br />

today she feels like being long, tomorrow<br />

she wants curly hair, and the next day she<br />

wants a pixie cut. Wigs are a great way for<br />

a woman to not feel trapped in one look.”<br />

Could that kind of openness and mutability<br />

help us thrive in other areas of our lives?<br />

Sonja Lyubomirsky, a psychologist at the<br />

University of California, Riverside, and<br />

the author of The How of Happiness (who<br />

recently added blue stripes to her dark<br />

hair “as a kind of post-Trump protest statement”),<br />

posits that when we feel beautiful<br />

and satisfied because our hair meets our<br />

own standards of excellence, it’s likely we’ll<br />

have more energy and resources to put toward<br />

achieving the intrinsic goals—professional,<br />

personal, spiritual—that make us<br />

feel truly happy and powerful.<br />

Johnny Wright, who started styling Michelle<br />

Obama’s hair in 2007, says one of<br />

the things he respects most about her is<br />

her decision—despite knowing how eagerly<br />

the world would judge her every move—<br />

to “live her life out loud” as First Lady,<br />

celebrating both adventurous young designers<br />

and her own textured hair (which<br />

Wright gently smooths with heat, never<br />

chemical relaxers), styled into a seemingly<br />

endless array of glamorous bobs, buns,<br />

and feathery waves. “Hairstyling is about<br />

storytelling. The way a woman wears her<br />

hair always becomes part of her story. And<br />

when women can do that without following<br />

rules—other than the rules they set for<br />

themselves—that is powerful. It’s epic.”<br />

—Louisa Kamps


HOME IMPROVEMENT<br />

TO KEEP HER CURLS “DEFINED<br />

AND HYDRATED,” NYC-<br />

BASED MODEL EBONEE DAVIS<br />

AVOIDS OLD-SCHOOL<br />

SUPERSUDSY SHAMPOOS<br />

AND INSTEAD CO-WASHES<br />

WITH AN ULTRARICH<br />

FORMULA, LIKE MIZANI<br />

CREAM CLEANSING<br />

CONDITIONER ($16).<br />

T-SHIRT BY MARC JACOBS.<br />

EARRING BY EDDIE BORGO.<br />

“MY HAIR IS A<br />

MANIFESTATION<br />

OF HOW I FEEL ON<br />

THE INSIDE. IT’S<br />

A HUGE PART<br />

OF WHAT<br />

DEFINES ME.”


CHOOSE<br />

YOUR OWN<br />

ADVENTURE<br />

How to find your superhero cut and color<br />

The first step is the deepest: Throw out<br />

all preconceptions about what your hair<br />

should be. “Anything is possible thanks<br />

to all the modern innovations: The darkest<br />

hair can go blond, the shortest hair<br />

can be instantly long, and the curliest<br />

hair can be straight if you want it. But<br />

only spend the time changing your color,<br />

changing your shape, if it brings you joy,”<br />

says Romina Manenti, our hairstylist for<br />

this shoot. “Power hair can be wash-andgo,<br />

or it can be high-maintenance. But<br />

bottom line, your hair should celebrate<br />

who you are or be a bridge for who you<br />

want to be.”<br />

YOUR NEW ECONOMY<br />

Apply the same high/low approach that<br />

you use with your wardrobe. However,<br />

your currency is not just money, but also<br />

time. The Chanel bag of hair? “That<br />

high-maintenance blond that needs a<br />

touch-up every three weeks is a major<br />

investment, but it’s worth it because it<br />

pulls everything else together,” says colorist<br />

Kyle White at New York City’s Oscar<br />

Blandi salon. “Spend your time making a<br />

statement—not trying to fit in.”<br />

AIR APPARENT<br />

Put your hands up and step away from the<br />

blow-dryer. If you’ve got fine, thin hair,<br />

don’t change it with teasing. If you’ve<br />

got textured hair, don’t try to iron it into<br />

submission. Instead, your stylist should<br />

create a cut that looks fantastic when airdried<br />

and styled with only a few essential<br />

products. “Power hair to me is embracing<br />

and enhancing your natural hair texture,<br />

not fighting against it,” says stylist and<br />

colorist Riawna Capri, co-owner of L.A.’s<br />

Nine Zero One salon.<br />

TIE ONE ON<br />

Now that office-appropriate color has expanded<br />

from brunette to platinum to the<br />

complete ROYGBIV spectrum, how do<br />

you choose your next new hue? White recommends<br />

visiting the scarf department.<br />

If you’re just adding streaks, try wrapping<br />

a scarf around your neck: “Pick the<br />

shade that makes your eyes sparkle and<br />

your complexion glow.” If you are going<br />

for allover color, wrap the scarf to hide<br />

your hair. “You need to remove your current<br />

hair color completely from the equation<br />

to get a sense of how your new color<br />

will look,” he says. That said, basic colortheory<br />

rules are still in play. According to<br />

White, “If you have pink undertones in<br />

your skin, go for blues, espresso brown,<br />

or icy platinum; if you have yellow undertones,<br />

think corals and pinks, fire-engine<br />

reds, warm purples.”


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“I CAN’T REMEMBER<br />

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for Zan Casting; produced by Una Simone Harris for Wanted Media; fashion assistant: Veronika Belyaeva. Still lifes by Jeffrey Westbrook.<br />

SHOPPING GUIDE: Bumble and bumble, bumbleandbumble.com; Carol’s Daughter, carolsdaughter.com; Christophe Robin, us.christophe-robin.com; Davines, davines<br />

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LIVING<br />

Cayne with friends,<br />

including Lela Rose<br />

(far left), in her<br />

space’s classroom<br />

Alison Cayne has just spent the afternoon<br />

teaching a few of her friends how to master<br />

the deceptively simple-seeming art of making<br />

salad in the demo kitchen of the cooking<br />

school she founded on West 17th Street in<br />

Manhattan five years ago. “We talked about<br />

grilling, roasting, blanching, composition,<br />

balance, texture, dressing, seasoning, and<br />

plating—oh, and knife skills,” she says, sipping<br />

a turmeric latte on a sofa beneath a<br />

giant poster for Luis Buñuel’s 1967 French<br />

film, Belle de Jour, starring Catherine Deneuve,<br />

who gazes out over the nook one<br />

floor up from the classroom. “Meanwhile,<br />

everyone drank wine, ate salad, and was<br />

happy—and walked away with at least one<br />

new thing, like how, when you cut something,<br />

you should have it flat-side down so<br />

it doesn’t rock.”<br />

222<br />

HAVEN SENT<br />

Alison Cayne offers up an in-demand lesson at her megahit<br />

New York City cooking school, Haven’s Kitchen.<br />

By Charlotte Druckman<br />

This is exactly what she imagined Haven’s<br />

Kitchen would be—“a salon where<br />

I’d hold book clubs and dinners planned<br />

around a theme.” It’s become so much more<br />

than that: She may have “pictured it like a<br />

clubhouse,” but she didn’t realize it could<br />

be one for the food community at large. She<br />

also didn’t know paid events would be such<br />

a big part of it; some of New York City’s<br />

most intimate and exclusive press dinners,<br />

book parties, and product launches are<br />

held here, and it’s a popular wedding spot.<br />

She never would have predicted that the<br />

small retail operation at the entrance of the<br />

building would become a café because the<br />

“local community wanted to make it their<br />

clubhouse.” Basically, she’d envisioned the<br />

school, but not its three-story proportions,<br />

or how those would be used.<br />

Before she imagined—or didn’t—any of<br />

it, Cayne was a stay-at-home mom in Manhattan.<br />

She gave birth to her first child in her<br />

midtwenties (after having worked in urban<br />

planning) and checked out of the workforce.<br />

At 33, by then a mother of three girls and two<br />

boys, all under the age of eight, Cayne confined<br />

her culinary efforts to making lunch.<br />

“My friends couldn’t understand how I was<br />

cooking so much, preparing separate meals<br />

for each kid and for the adults.” Her peers, she<br />

noticed, had a lot of anxiety about what to feed<br />

themselves and their children. In 2010, when<br />

her youngest entered preschool, Cayne, who’d<br />

received her undergraduate degree from<br />

Duke, went back to school herself, enrolling<br />

in NYU’s master’s program in food studies. “I<br />

wanted to be teaching about the love of food<br />

and anthropology,” she says. While studying<br />

for her degree, she had an internship as the<br />

head of the education station at the Greenmarket<br />

in Union Square, where she gave<br />

people of all ages walking tours of the farmers’<br />

market and manned the information<br />

booth. Shoppers would ask her what to do<br />

with the ingredients they’d purchased, and<br />

Photographed by Shawn Brackbill


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“An over-the-top table setting<br />

adds an element of fun to<br />

any party!”<br />

Spring is here! And while British fashion blogger<br />

Karen Blanchard of Wheredidugetthat.com<br />

loves brunch as much as the next New Yorker,<br />

rather than catching up over avocado toast in a<br />

crowded restaurant, she prefers to gather her<br />

girlfriends (and a few bottles of La Marca<br />

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she’d share her e-mail address with each<br />

of them, responding to any and all kitchen<br />

conundrums.<br />

Eventually, she began telling her kids, jokingly,<br />

that she’d open a cooking school when<br />

they left for college—until it stopped being<br />

a joke. She wanted to offer New Yorkers the<br />

option of taking lessons in a nonintimidating<br />

space. “Everyone was so scared of the<br />

kitchen,” she says. “In so many cultures<br />

around the world, the kitchen is an altar, it’s<br />

sacred—it’s a haven. For me, it was where I<br />

got to be creative and take care of people. It<br />

was my happy lab.” Cayne admits to having<br />

had her own hang-ups about signing up for<br />

classes at the culinary schools that allow<br />

home cooks to participate. Why, she wondered,<br />

couldn’t there be an alternative that<br />

could be a happy lab for others?<br />

When you walk into Haven’s Kitchen,<br />

you enter a bright, high-ceilinged, floweraccented,<br />

subway-tiled space where customers<br />

sink their teeth into freshly piled<br />

sandwiches or just-baked chocolate chip<br />

cookies, and their spoons into bowls of almond<br />

milk–splashed homemade granola<br />

or vibrant-hued vegetable soups, all made<br />

with carefully selected and responsibly<br />

produced ingredients. On one of the walls,<br />

beneath graphic black-and-white posters, a<br />

few lines of text have been stenciled. “Our<br />

Mission: To help our guests re-connect with<br />

the land, the table and each other. To help<br />

family farmers build economically viable<br />

businesses. To build a new system that feeds<br />

our whole community sustainable food.”<br />

The challenge, of course, is to find ways to<br />

meet that mission while generating enough<br />

income to do so. “I’m balancing trying to<br />

do good things for the community and paying<br />

rent, and supporting my employees so<br />

they can take care of their families.” She<br />

planned to be self-sustaining three years<br />

in; she did it in half that time. And she did<br />

it while going through a divorce: Two weeks<br />

after she opened the doors to her dream,<br />

she separated from her husband—and the<br />

CAYNE’S<br />

SALAD 101<br />

BE DELIBERATE. Start<br />

by thinking about<br />

what flavors you crave,<br />

what’s in season, and<br />

what you have on hand.<br />

Pick a base—a green, a<br />

vegetable, a grain, or a<br />

bean—and then build from<br />

there with complementary<br />

ingredients.<br />

USE ALTERNATIVE PARTS<br />

OF THE VEGETABLE. Celery<br />

leaves are full of flavor<br />

and act as a delicate<br />

finish. Most of the nutrients<br />

in vegetables like zucchini,<br />

for example, are in the<br />

skin, so wash them well,<br />

but there’s no need to<br />

peel. Broccoli stems<br />

are crunchy and sweet.<br />

AVOID TOO MUCH OF<br />

A GOOD THING. Toss in<br />

sweet, chewy, or crunchy<br />

ingredients, but with<br />

restraint. They should<br />

be happy surprises for<br />

your mouth—not the<br />

main attraction.<br />

SAY NO TO SOGGINESS.<br />

Dry greens well and<br />

add dressing just before<br />

serving (unless you’re<br />

making a slaw or a bean<br />

salad; both need to<br />

absorb dressing and<br />

get better with time).<br />

GO WITH A LIGHT FINISH.<br />

Toss with a drizzle of olive<br />

oil and a drop of acid:<br />

A splash of rice wine<br />

vinegar is refreshing for<br />

Asian-inspired salads,<br />

a squeeze of grapefruit<br />

juice pairs well with<br />

creamy avocado, and a<br />

dribble of nutty sherry<br />

vinegar is the ultimate<br />

all-purpose choice.<br />

Clockwise from left:<br />

A grilled salmon,<br />

cucumber, and edamame<br />

salad; Cayne; a<br />

broccoli and radicchio<br />

salad with toasted<br />

walnuts and pecorino<br />

school became a very personal<br />

haven. It gave her a productive<br />

outlet and a way to start<br />

rebuilding her life. But the<br />

learning curve of running a<br />

business was an all-consuming<br />

distraction. “I learned<br />

a lot from my accountant,”<br />

she says. “She would remind<br />

me, ‘Ali, it’s a business.<br />

It’s okay to be a business with<br />

a heart that tries to do good<br />

in the world. But it’s a business,<br />

and if it fails, you can’t<br />

do that.’ ”<br />

She has begun to think<br />

about ways to do both—maintain<br />

a business and do good—<br />

beyond four walls. In addition<br />

to teaching a course on contemporary<br />

food policy and<br />

theory at NYU, she’s written<br />

The Haven’s Kitchen Cooking School, a primer that helps home cooks<br />

everywhere “figure out what’s appealing to them, and then gives<br />

them the tools to make it.” If the typical cookbook presents people<br />

with someone else’s culinary style, Cayne’s bucks the trend; she<br />

wants her audience to find their own voices at the stove: “It’s not<br />

what I want you to cook or think you need to cook.” As she writes<br />

in the introduction to the book, out last month from Artisan, it’s<br />

“meant to teach and inspire you: It is not a list of recipes or a photo<br />

collage of unattainable food.… I hope that you will love this book<br />

forever but only need it for a short while.”<br />

This afternoon’s salad lesson was intended to serve a similar purpose.<br />

When her friend, fashion designer Lela Rose, asked which salad<br />

would be the best to make with kids, the answer was “whichever<br />

salad they made themselves; it tastes better if you’re invested,” followed<br />

by, “it’s true for adults, too.” Cayne’s vision hasn’t changed<br />

all that much. She still wants to “encourage people to cook.” Now,<br />

though, she wants to turn everyone’s kitchen into a haven—or a<br />

happy lab—no matter where they are.<br />

Hair and makeup by Julianna Grogan<br />

226


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THE PROPHET<br />

One of the most acclaimed novelists of our time,<br />

Margaret Atwood is as prolific an enviro-warrior Tweeter<br />

as she is a writer of brilliant fictions. Meanwhile, her classic<br />

The Handmaid’s Tale is debuting on television, not to mention<br />

energizing women’s rights advocates around the globe.<br />

Of course, she saw it all coming. By Miranda Purves<br />

“You’d better not be late, or Margaret Atwood<br />

will slap you!” my husband calls as I<br />

rush to make my flight to Toronto to interview<br />

the acclaimed Canadian woman of letters.<br />

He’s referring to Atwood’s cameo in the<br />

terrifying first episode of a new Hulu series<br />

based on her novel The Handmaid’s Tale. In<br />

it, the author’s character whacks a young<br />

woman (played by Elisabeth Moss) who’s<br />

daydreaming during lessons in how to be a<br />

womb slave.<br />

For those of you who missed the book<br />

when it came out in 1985, weren’t assigned it<br />

in a college English course, or aren’t among<br />

the many new readers who’ve recently<br />

put The Handmaid’s Tale back on the bestseller<br />

list, the story takes place in a dystopian<br />

future where an authoritarian Christian<br />

political faction has taken over America,<br />

renaming it Gilead. Pollution and venereal<br />

disease have decimated female fertility, and<br />

women who can still give birth are turned<br />

into “handmaids,” required to wear red<br />

robes and white hoods to denote their status.<br />

This part might be bearable, as the outfits<br />

are fetchingly fall 2013 Valentino. But each<br />

member of the birthing corps is then placed<br />

in the household of a government higher-up,<br />

who ritually rapes her as he recites biblical<br />

passages and his resentful wife sits behind<br />

the handmaid, whose head is between the<br />

wife’s open legs.<br />

“My cameo, my looming cameo! Let’s just<br />

say there are only a certain number of roles<br />

in that film for a person of my age,” Atwood,<br />

who’s 77, says to me wryly. In the series,<br />

which debuts April 26, she portrays one of<br />

the cruel spinsters, known as Aunts, charged<br />

with forcibly converting the captive women<br />

into obedient handmaids. Moss’s Offred—<br />

assigned to the house of a commander<br />

named Fred (Joseph Fiennes)—narrates the<br />

story, and we quickly learn that her child has<br />

been taken from her, and her husband shot,<br />

as the family tried to escape to Canada.<br />

Atwood and I are meeting at L’Espresso<br />

Bar Mercurio, a boîte with an edge of<br />

old-world formality where she, along with<br />

much of the University of Toronto humanities<br />

faculty, likes to conduct meetings. A<br />

lovely floral/herbal smell envelops us as<br />

we speak, which Atwood says is probably<br />

her lotion, though she won’t identify it.<br />

She’s wearing a fuchsia vest, fuzzy polar<br />

fleece pants, and pearl drop earrings. Like<br />

the Mercurio, her outfit is both cozy and elegant,<br />

warm but strict.<br />

With typical pragmatism, Atwood is having<br />

none of my grand suggestion that there<br />

is symbolism behind her being the one to<br />

strike a blow. (Bruce Miller, the series showrunner,<br />

affirms my interpretation, however:<br />

“Of course, she had to have that role.”)<br />

The Handmaid’s Tale has been perceived as<br />

an awakening slap—yes, this could happen<br />

here—since the day it was published. That<br />

was in the Reagan era, when the Republican<br />

Party, once champion of causes like the<br />

Equal Rights Amendment, became entwined<br />

with the Moral Majority. Cofounded by televangelist<br />

Jerry Falwell, the powerful lobbying<br />

group opposed government programs<br />

that supported single mothers or helped<br />

women advance in the workforce—the ERA<br />

was verboten—while promoting prayer in<br />

schools and sexual-abstinence education.<br />

But The Handmaid’s Tale seems even<br />

more prescient now. As in our current<br />

state—at least if you’re persuaded by White<br />

House chief strategist Steve Bannon that the<br />

Western world is at the dawn of a “global<br />

war” against “jihadist Islamic fascism”—the<br />

Republic of Gilead is in a holy war with religious<br />

forces outside its (locked) borders.<br />

And considering our virtually all-whitemale<br />

presidential cabinet, for whom controlling<br />

female reproductive freedom is a<br />

central agenda and closing the church/state<br />

gap an ominous subtext, the “Leaders of the<br />

Faithful,” who run Gilead, sound familiar,<br />

too. As Moss put it in an e-mail, “The first<br />

time I met Margaret, I asked her if she felt<br />

she predicted the future when she wrote the<br />

book. She said no, but five months later we<br />

were at a wrap party, and we turned to each<br />

other and both said, ‘Wow,’ because now<br />

the beginnings of what she warns us about<br />

in the book are happening in America.”<br />

Hulu has invested heavily in the show,<br />

airing a spooky Handmaid’s ad during the<br />

Super Bowl, where 30-second spots go for<br />

around $5 million. The series, also starring<br />

Orange Is the New Black’s Samira Wiley as<br />

Offred’s best friend, is open-ended. That<br />

means Miller—a former showrunner for ER<br />

who most recently helped create the postapocalyptic<br />

sci-fi drama The 100—gets to<br />

collaborate with Atwood to fill in parts of the<br />

story only alluded to in the book. “What’s<br />

happening in Canada, which now has a massive<br />

refugee problem?” Miller says, offering<br />

examples of new material. “And in Israel,<br />

where Jewish people have been shipped?<br />

The officers’ lives? It’s kind of a dream come<br />

Stills: Take Five/Hulu<br />

228


Credits Tkers<br />

er sentences. She’s been short-listed for the<br />

Man Booker Prize five times (and won once,<br />

for The Blind Assassin, a plot-twisty historical<br />

metafiction about two sisters in 1930s and<br />

’40s Ontario); in March, she won the 2017<br />

Ivan Sandrof Lifetime Achievement Award<br />

from the National Book Critics Circle.<br />

She gets as much attention for her environmental<br />

and humanist advocacy as she<br />

does for her 16 novels, 15 books of poetry,<br />

10 works of nonfiction, 8 short-story collections,<br />

8 children’s books, and two graphic<br />

novels. She’s a Twitter adept with 1.4 million<br />

followers—and can even claim her own<br />

“gate” hashtag. During Justin Trudeau’s<br />

successful race to unseat conservative Stephen<br />

Harper as Canadian prime minister in<br />

2015, Atwood wrote a piece for the National<br />

Post criticizing an attack ad against the<br />

liberal Trudeau that featured the tag line<br />

“ ‘Nice hair,’ Justin.” (Which candidate, Atwood<br />

parried, was using taxpayers’ money<br />

to travel with a personal grooming assistant?<br />

“Hint: Initials are S.H.”) When the<br />

right-leaning Post mysteriously removed her<br />

column for several hours, then brought it<br />

back with edits, #hairgate spread.<br />

Part of Atwood’s public appeal is that for<br />

such a literary heavyweight, she has a light<br />

touch and a graceful, outward-looking retrue,<br />

the possibilities for story.”<br />

Although The Handmaid’s Tale<br />

has never been out of print, sales<br />

are up 30 percent since 2015, and<br />

Penguin Random House has<br />

had to supply an extra 250,000<br />

copies to meet postelection demand.<br />

Other dystopian novels,<br />

such as George Orwell’s 1984, are<br />

also resurgent, but Handmaid’s<br />

is the unofficial spirit guide of<br />

the protests against Trump administration<br />

policies. Fans fill Instagram<br />

with images of tattoos saying Nolite te bastardes<br />

carborundorum—the words Offred<br />

found scratched in her closet floor from a<br />

member of the resistance. At various post-<br />

Inauguration women’s marches, signs pop<br />

up with slogans such as “Make Margaret Atwood<br />

Fiction Again” and “The Handmaid’s<br />

Tale Is Not an Instruction Manual.”<br />

In fact, in a wonderful irony, the profusion<br />

of pink pussyhats at the marches, with their<br />

earlike protrusions, echo the handmaids’<br />

white wimples as they appeared on the<br />

iconic original book cover. A point Atwood<br />

makes to me, and notes that she’s repeated<br />

often, is that everything that happens in The<br />

Handmaid’s Tale has some historical precedent,<br />

from the sumptuary laws that determined<br />

which social class could wear what<br />

garb, to the impact of pollution on fertility<br />

(“Look it up in your browser!”), to Americans<br />

fleeing for Canada. (“It happened<br />

during Vietnam and when the Loyalists fled<br />

the Revolution.”)<br />

Atwood has pulled off the feat of being<br />

a “living legend who continues to remain<br />

fresh and innovative on the page,” as a New<br />

York Times reviewer recently wrote. Over<br />

the course of her career, she’s coaxed us into<br />

the dark of injustice with ever-lighter, funni-<br />

229<br />

Atwood says she writes<br />

speculative, not science,<br />

fiction. Everything<br />

in Handmaid’s has some<br />

historical precedent.<br />

In addition to The<br />

Handmaid’s Tale, two<br />

other Atwood books<br />

are being made for TV:<br />

Alias Grace and the<br />

MaddAddam trilogy.<br />

sponsiveness. She has two other TV projects<br />

in the works: Black Swan director Darren<br />

Aronofsky is adapting her MaddAddam trilogy,<br />

and Anna Paquin is set to star in a sixpart<br />

Netflix miniseries based on Alias Grace.<br />

Outside the entertainment realm, Atwood’s<br />

somewhat cockamamy-sounding (at least in<br />

2004) start-up idea called LongPen—which<br />

allows authors to sign books long distance—<br />

has turned into Syngrafii, a legitimate software<br />

business that facilitates off-site document<br />

signing. She’s in on the small-batch<br />

coffee trend, having helped create “Atwood<br />

Blend,” the proceeds from which support<br />

Ontario’s Pelee Island Bird Observatory.<br />

And she steadfastly refuses to indulge in<br />

Canada’s predilection for smugness, in full<br />

tilt since Trump, pointing out that Toronto<br />

not long ago elected so-called crack mayor<br />

Rob Ford. “Trump is going to do a lot of the<br />

same things [Harper did],” Atwood tells me.<br />

“Muzzle government scientists. Get rid of<br />

women’s programs. Somebody such as Ann<br />

Coulter will be put in an Aunt Lydia position<br />

as the head of all women.”<br />

At that, the author leans across the table<br />

and grabs my wrist, bearing down on<br />

me with her clear, almost impossibly blue<br />

eyes. “We’re just trying to help you, dear,”<br />

she says, putting on a splendid Aunt Lydia–<br />

meets–Ann Coulter performance. “We’re<br />

going to keep you safe. Stand in that line!”<br />

The daughter of an entomologist, Atwood<br />

spent her early years tracking infestations in<br />

the northern Ontario and Quebec woods for<br />

her father to study, until the family, which<br />

also included her homemaker mother, sister,<br />

and brother, moved to Toronto when<br />

she was eight. In her memoir-esque In Other<br />

Worlds: SF and the Human Imagination, she<br />

describes herself as an itinerant wild child<br />

who wrote and illustrated elaborate stories<br />

about flying rabbits who had cats for pets.<br />

As an undergrad, she studied literature at<br />

the University of Toronto, then went to Radcliffe<br />

College (still known as the “Harvard<br />

Annex”) to focus on the Victorians. Atwood<br />

had decided in high school to become a writer<br />

229


—notwithstanding her affinity for biology,<br />

which remains a hobby and a source of material—and<br />

crafted stories and poetry as<br />

a grad student, to her colleagues’ disdain.<br />

“You weren’t a serious academic if you wrote<br />

[fiction],” she says. “Twenty-three was the<br />

hardest year. Twenty is hell. It’s iffy. You don’t<br />

know what the plot is.”<br />

Then she won the Governor General’s<br />

Award in 1967 for a book of poems, Circle<br />

Game. With her master’s but an unfinished<br />

PhD, she left Harvard and, at 28, returned<br />

to Canada and the tabula rasa that was her<br />

native country’s literature scene. She lived<br />

in Montreal, Vancouver, Edmonton, and<br />

Europe—publishing and teaching at various<br />

universities—before settling down, more or<br />

less permanently, in Ontario, first in farm<br />

country, then, in 1980, in Toronto. When I ask<br />

if it was daunting to enter a field dominated<br />

by male authors, she deadpans, “What male<br />

authors? It was Canada.” She became both<br />

creator and chronicler of the barely existent<br />

world of Canadian fiction. “I had an advantage<br />

in two ways,” she says. “There were no<br />

huge literary giants—Melville, Hawthorne,<br />

Whitman, Dickinson—looming over us at<br />

that time. Yes, there were writers, but they<br />

weren’t writing crush-your-soul, ‘you’re not<br />

as good as this’ [books].”<br />

She also had a sense that writing was an acceptable<br />

occupation for a Canadian woman.<br />

“The United States was quite different from<br />

a lot of other countries because it was started<br />

by seventeenth-century Puritans, [a group]<br />

that was very male dominated,” she says.<br />

“Whereas Canada, on the English side, was<br />

populated in the early nineteenth century by<br />

Samira Wiley<br />

as Offred’s best<br />

friend, Moira;<br />

Joseph Fiennes as<br />

Commander Fred.<br />

literate women who were already published<br />

writers. On the French side were nuns who<br />

were literate and publishing and writing.”<br />

Not that she didn’t confront inequality: “I<br />

like to horrify the young by saying things like<br />

‘When I went to graduate school at Harvard,<br />

you weren’t let into the Lamont Library—it<br />

was only for boys. Not only that, in our graduate<br />

seminar, the girls made tea and cookies<br />

for the boys.’ ” She doesn’t remember feeling<br />

angry, she says. “I didn’t even know it was sexism.<br />

At the time, you didn’t get it that maybe<br />

there’s a dark side to that. You didn’t resent.”<br />

This is what she says now, at least. She’s<br />

been with fellow novelist Graeme Gibson for<br />

46 years and ends the acknowledgments to<br />

her most recent novel, Hag-Seed, an adaptation<br />

of The Tempest, with “my special thanks<br />

to Graeme Gibson—an old enchanter, though<br />

happily not the one in this book.” He has a<br />

T-shirt with a quote from an article about Atwood:<br />

“Every woman writer should be married<br />

to Graeme Gibson.”<br />

But her brilliant first novel, The Edible<br />

Woman, which immediately established her<br />

as a significant voice and is considered one<br />

of the galvanizing works of second-wave<br />

feminism, tells a different story of Atwood’s<br />

attitude toward womanhood, circa 1960. A<br />

novel-length metaphor of anger, resentment,<br />

and suffocation, the book centers on a young<br />

woman named Marian living in Toronto.<br />

Engaged to be married, she slowly anthropomorphizes<br />

each and every food group, empathizing<br />

so deeply with their pain at being<br />

consumed (including the shrieking carrot<br />

pulled from the ground) that she stops being<br />

able to eat at all.<br />

Atwood’s upper hand, of course, was that<br />

of the confident sublimator who, rather than<br />

being consumed herself, leveraged her anger<br />

into the capital of art. To one set of her<br />

admirers—call them the interior-minded<br />

realists—the Atwood book that inspires the<br />

fiercest devotion is Cat’s Eye, an autobiographical<br />

bildungsroman that put female<br />

friendship in its rightful place almost a full<br />

25 years before Elena Ferrante mined the<br />

subject in her lauded Neapolitan novels. In<br />

Cat’s Eye, Elaine, a painter, is the daughter of<br />

an entomologist who moves to Toronto after<br />

a life in the woods unencumbered by social<br />

constraints. Readers follow her through an<br />

early marriage and the birth of a daughter<br />

(Atwood has a daughter, born in 1976, with<br />

Gibson) and meet her again when she’s 50,<br />

visiting Toronto for a retrospective of her art.<br />

(Through Elaine, Atwood perfectly expresses<br />

the gall that fills so many women upon realizing,<br />

with a start, that they’ve become the<br />

chief domestic and emotional laborer in the<br />

family enterprise. Elaine is banging around<br />

in the kitchen while her artist-husband loiters<br />

in the living room with a friend. “What’s<br />

wrong with her?” the friend asks. “She’s mad<br />

because she’s a woman,” the husband replies.<br />

At which point Elaine stands in the doorway<br />

and announces: “I’m not mad because I’m a<br />

woman. I’m mad because you’re an asshole.”)<br />

But the heart of Cat’s Eye is the evolution<br />

of the friendship between Elaine and her<br />

girlhood friend Cordelia, who, when she recognizes<br />

in the preteen Elaine a sense of freedom<br />

and scientific curiosity she’s never been<br />

allowed, endeavors to “improve” her. Cordelia<br />

selects two henchgirls for the task, and<br />

the trio slowly psychologically torture Elaine:<br />

forcing her to walk ahead of them on the way<br />

home from school while they criticize her<br />

comportment, rating her locution, teaching<br />

her manners, and punishing her with exclusion<br />

and, eventually, worse.<br />

When I read Cat’s Eye shortly after it was<br />

published, it was the mean-girl episodes<br />

that I most related to. Rereading it now, at<br />

46, about the age when Atwood wrote it,<br />

I’m moved to tears multiple times at the true<br />

subject of the book: time itself, the impossible,<br />

insurmountable layers of loss its passing<br />

piles on. Now that I know what it’s like to have<br />

forgotten pieces of my history surface unannounced,<br />

then recede as suddenly as they<br />

appear, it’s Atwood’s ability to capture the vicissitudes<br />

of other selves living within us that<br />

seems most remarkable.<br />

After Cat’s Eye, Atwood made a genre<br />

shift into speculative fiction, which to her<br />

is based on things that could happen—as<br />

opposed to science fiction, which she cate-<br />

Stills: Take Five/Hulu; Atwood: Getty Images<br />

230


Atwood has produced work that<br />

is true to her public role, and her<br />

public role is true to her work—a feat<br />

perhaps equal to magic.<br />

gorizes as invented from whole cloth. Her<br />

later novels—Alias Grace, The Robber Bride,<br />

the MaddAddam trilogy—are rich in fantasy<br />

or scientific or historical conceits, and very<br />

plot driven. These are the books that appeal<br />

to a second group of devotees, and alienate<br />

some of the first, who still thirst for her<br />

chronicling of the folds and nuances of the<br />

female experience.<br />

Atwood credits her parents’ child-rearing<br />

technique, in part, for her willingness to<br />

embark on brand-new storytelling territory:<br />

“ ‘Stiffen your spine! Stand up for yourself!<br />

Don’t waste your brain. Do what’s right even<br />

if it’s hard! Chop some wood! Drive the boat.<br />

This is how you make a piecrust.’ Basically,<br />

they let me do whatever,” she says.<br />

In a discussion with her friend and fellow<br />

speculator, Ursula K. Le Guin, at the Portland<br />

Arts & Lectures series in 2010, Atwood said<br />

she’d lost interest in contemporary realism<br />

because it had become overly concerned with<br />

well-off people and their problems, with little<br />

room left for “bearing witness” outside that<br />

sphere. These days, she tells me, only half<br />

joking, it’s less true, since keeping a journal<br />

of day-to-day life in the U.S. would be “very<br />

Le Guin—only, um, real.” Of course, many<br />

contemporary fiction writers have followed<br />

Atwood into speculative or science fiction—<br />

Chang-Rae Lee and Lionel Shriver, to name<br />

just two—and the genre has positively exploded<br />

in the YA realm. (And Atwood may be<br />

in the process of converting those of us who<br />

wish her to stick with limning the inner world<br />

of the now: I loved her 2015 novel, the creepily<br />

mesmerizing The Heart Goes Last, which<br />

begins as a straightforward dystopian about<br />

a couple in the near future who agree to live<br />

in prison half the year to pay for their liberty<br />

the other half, but veers into an exploration of<br />

sexual desire in the technological age.)<br />

Just as she hasn’t hesitated to stretch her<br />

readers, Atwood has been willing to mess<br />

with her millennial feminist fans’ heads. She<br />

recently signed an open letter in defense of<br />

professor and writer Steven Galloway, who<br />

was fired by the University of British Columbia<br />

for undivulged reasons after being<br />

accused of sexual indiscretions by former<br />

students. An active member of PEN International,<br />

which fights for freedom of expression,<br />

Atwood believed the investigation<br />

against Galloway was neither fair nor transparent.<br />

“If it’s a matter of rape, then it should<br />

be a matter of jail,” she wrote in The Walrus<br />

magazine.<br />

This prompted outrage from women who<br />

thought Atwood should know better than to<br />

assume publicly challenging a powerful professor<br />

would be easy, or lead to justice. Along<br />

with internalizing the lessons her parents instilled<br />

in her about doing the right thing, Atwood<br />

comes from the generation of women<br />

who made it in spite of sexism. So while she’s<br />

well aware of the systemic problems that impede<br />

women’s progress, she’s also attached to<br />

the possibility of individual triumph against<br />

the odds. She’s as willing to hold women responsible<br />

as men: A central theme of The<br />

Handmaid’s Tale is how women get lulled into<br />

acquiescence with the dominant paradigms.<br />

For the sheer release of it, the handmaids<br />

beat to death a man who the regime claims<br />

is a rapist, even as they suspect he’s actually<br />

a member of the resistance. Atwood e-mails<br />

me after our interview: “Remember how old I<br />

am. Totalitarianisms, many of which existed<br />

during my lifetime and formative years, don’t<br />

stop at women! They oppress everyone who is<br />

not the ruling elite.”<br />

Although Atwood was able to find her place<br />

in the literary scene free of competition, now<br />

that she’s a star, not just in her own country<br />

but in the world, she does have a “crush-yoursoul”<br />

good Canadian figure with whom to<br />

contend: Alice Munro, also a writer of the<br />

female experience and a genius of the short<br />

story. While Atwood has collected loads of<br />

honors, she did not win the Nobel, as Munro<br />

did in 2013. I don’t ask Atwood if she was<br />

envious of her colleague and friend’s prize; it<br />

would go beyond the pale of manners. Whatever<br />

nugget of envy (surely healthy) might<br />

lurk has been transformed into a wonderful<br />

show of sisterhood: Atwood wrote an encomium<br />

upon Munro’s win for the Guardian.<br />

Both of them found their early readers<br />

through a grasp of a distinctly Canadian<br />

brand of prudish, judge-y limit setting (aka<br />

tall-poppy syndrome). It’s an attitude, to some<br />

Continued on page 289


EVERYBODY HAS HER REASONS<br />

Over the next few months, Linda Tirado will be talking to a group of women in America—<br />

here, you’ll meet three of them—about what influenced them to vote for Donald Trump<br />

and how he’s met their expectations so far. Hint: Social media figures prominently in their<br />

views, and it’s getting ever more personal. PHOTOGRAPHY BY SKYE PARROTT<br />

Solipsism is self-soothing. It is easier to believe<br />

that everyone knows everything you<br />

do, and thus you can assume that when they<br />

come to a different conclusion than you have,<br />

they are being intentionally wrongheaded,<br />

or selfish, or evil. Only, what if they aren’t?<br />

What if you, given the information they have,<br />

would have reached the same conclusion<br />

they did? What if the problem in America is<br />

that millions of us, on the right and on the<br />

left, have been propagandized? In all the<br />

discussions of fake news, we seem to keep<br />

missing the most important conversation of<br />

all: Different information leads to different<br />

decisions for most rational thinkers.<br />

Starting this month and continuing periodically<br />

over the rest of the year in the pages<br />

of ELLE, I’m checking in with a small group<br />

of women in America—from rural Oregonians<br />

to suburban Atlantans—all of them<br />

intelligent beings who seriously considered<br />

the world as they understand it and voted accordingly—for<br />

Donald J. Trump. I’d expected<br />

to find anger and status anxiety driving their<br />

votes. What I found instead was fear and misinformation,<br />

and I had trouble finding women<br />

who’d go on the record for this series. Many<br />

were afraid of backlash at work or on social<br />

media; some worried that I’d mock them in<br />

these mainstream-media pages. They’re not<br />

exactly wrong to be afraid: The political has<br />

become personal in myriad ways. This isn’t a<br />

sympathetic portrait of the downtrodden or a<br />

bid to infantilize grown women. I’m interested<br />

in what people believe to be true and why.<br />

We have to grapple with the flow of information<br />

in our society. We aren’t all starting with<br />

the same facts, and if there is any one thing<br />

that will kill this nation, it’s refusing to recognize<br />

and remedy that.<br />

BRITTANY FEIWELL<br />

HENDERSON, NEVADA<br />

Brittany Feiwell is that political unicorn:<br />

a true independent with a “completely<br />

mixed social circle,” as she calls it. Her<br />

Facebook feed is half conservatives in<br />

Miami and half liberals from California—both<br />

places she’s lived. She and<br />

her husband, Scott, were in L.A. for five<br />

years. They have three children under<br />

the age of 10, and she stays home with<br />

them. She says she’ll eventually get back<br />

into the digital marketing contract work<br />

she used to do, but for now, she’s focused<br />

on her family.<br />

Ten years ago, the Feiwells moved to<br />

Henderson—the second-largest city in<br />

Nevada, just 16 miles from Las Vegas—<br />

largely for quality-of-life reasons: bigger<br />

house, lower taxes, less crime. Hender-<br />

232


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son, notably, turns up on many safestcity-in-America<br />

lists. Since the Feiwells<br />

do well enough with Scott’s small businesses<br />

in marketing and material handling,<br />

the fact that Brittany’s not working<br />

doesn’t create financial stress for<br />

the family.<br />

We discuss the madness that has overcome<br />

America in recent years, which<br />

she describes as “kind of astounding,<br />

really. You used to be able to talk<br />

about politics, and maybe it was tense,<br />

but it wasn’t so full of hatred.” We talk<br />

about the fear we share that the nation<br />

might be actually breaking apart. She<br />

always votes in presidential elections.<br />

She says she voted for Trump on largely<br />

economic grounds, and doesn’t want<br />

to get into the weeds of his position on<br />

abortion. (Trump promised to defund<br />

Planned Parenthood and suggested<br />

punishing women who got abortions.)<br />

She wants the president to focus instead<br />

on American prosperity. “People are<br />

angry and afraid when they’re struggling,”<br />

she says. “We’d do better making<br />

Continued on page 289<br />

KIMBERLEY EUSTON<br />

M A R I E T TA , G EO RG I A<br />

Kimberley Euston lives in a big, beautiful<br />

house in the exclusive East Cobb section<br />

near Marietta, Georgia. Georgia remained<br />

red in the 2016 election, despite prognostications<br />

that it might not. But Marietta, a<br />

town 20 miles up I-75 from Atlanta, has been<br />

growing bluer with each election, and Clinton<br />

bested Trump here by about 30 percent.<br />

A lot of Euston’s friends voted for Trump,<br />

and a lot of her friends voted for Clinton. It<br />

was Euston’s dislike of Clinton—and I can’t<br />

emphasize this enough—that was the animating<br />

factor in her vote for Trump.<br />

Euston is a high-level executive at a wellknown<br />

private accounting firm in Atlanta<br />

(she doesn’t want to name it), and her earnings<br />

and those of her husband, Greg, put them<br />

in the one percent. After she graduated from<br />

Sweet Briar College in 1992, she worked for<br />

the State Department in the Bureau of International<br />

Narcotics and then joined Vice President<br />

Dan Quayle’s national security staff.<br />

Greg Euston owns a PR firm that specializes<br />

in corporate and environmental communications,<br />

and their sons (she has twin 16-year-old<br />

boys and a 13-year-old daughter) are soccer<br />

stars, making her an actual suburban soccer<br />

mom. Remember them, that mythic voting<br />

bloc back in 1996? She is on the board of the<br />

Georgia chapter of Covenant House, which<br />

works on child homelessness issues; her husband<br />

is a trustee of the Georgia Conservancy,<br />

an environmental group. Their conservatism<br />

is the old-guard sort—as in party-of-Lincoln<br />

old-guard—and she’s always voted Republican<br />

in presidential elections.<br />

Euston is originally from a small community<br />

in West Virginia, Glen Daniel,<br />

with family roots in construction and coal<br />

mining, and the rural working-class mentality<br />

has stuck with her—even though she<br />

worked on Wall Street and for the veep.<br />

She straddles two worlds: the one she came<br />

from, where “people are poor, are hurting,”<br />

and the one in which she lives now, where<br />

“we give everyone participation trophies.”<br />

She wants a more conservative America,<br />

and a tougher one, too.<br />

234


But she’s had her beefs with the Republican<br />

Party. Euston, who’s 47, voted for John<br />

Kasich in the primaries and is not happy with<br />

the state of the GOP and its values since the<br />

election of George W. Bush, when social<br />

conservatives were seriously mobilized as a<br />

voting bloc. “Inclusiveness has kind of gone<br />

away from the party,” she says. “The religious<br />

right has had control of the party, but<br />

the party needs to stay away from the social<br />

issues.… If I were raped, or my daughter were<br />

raped, I should have the right to choose what<br />

I would do with my body.”<br />

She believes in limited government,<br />

keeping a strong military to maintain superpower<br />

status, financial-sector deregulation,<br />

and entrepreneurship. For her, “a successful<br />

[Trump] presidency will be if we’re<br />

seeing an increase in the real GDP and in<br />

jobs, and I think those things will happen<br />

if there are fewer regulations, and if we<br />

can even look at changing the tax code to<br />

make investing in America better for people<br />

again because it’s—we have the highest<br />

corporate tax code among industrial nations.<br />

So growth, jobs, GDP—that’s what<br />

I’m watching closely.”<br />

A reluctant Trump voter, she contends that<br />

everyone should vote as a matter of civic responsibility,<br />

and she loathes Hillary Clinton<br />

on principle, saying that Clinton believes herself<br />

to be “above and beyond the law.”<br />

Given her background in DC Republican<br />

politics and civil service, I ask what she<br />

thought of the mess that was Trump’s first<br />

six weeks: his immigration-ban forays and<br />

his gambit on the repeal of the Affordable<br />

Continued on page 290<br />

KRISTIE DAVIS<br />

HARNEY COUNTY, OREGON<br />

I first met Kristie Davis at a campfire in Harney<br />

County, Oregon, in January 2016, where<br />

she and I were discussing the relative merits<br />

of armed rebellion. Literally a stone’s throw<br />

from the thousand-acre farm where Davis<br />

lives with her husband and two teenage<br />

daughters, an armed group led by Ammon<br />

Bundy had overrun the Malheur National<br />

Wildlife Refuge. Bundy and company<br />

claimed they were fighting the federal government’s<br />

jurisdiction over lands on which<br />

ranchers wanted to graze their cattle, as<br />

well as protesting the treatment of two local<br />

ranchers named Dwight and Steven Hammond<br />

(who didn’t particularly want Bundy’s<br />

“help”) who’d been convicted of burning<br />

acreage that belonged to the feds. I was on<br />

assignment to cover the standoff, and once<br />

Davis found out I’d been planning to sleep<br />

outside in subfreezing temperatures—I grew<br />

up in the mountains and had the proper<br />

gear, but still, it’s not something you really<br />

want to do—she insisted that I come stay<br />

with her family for the duration of my visit.<br />

Kristie, 45, is headstrong and mouthy, the<br />

sort of woman you’d describe as taking no<br />

shit from anyone. She gets it from her mother,<br />

Sandy Potter, 64, who lives nearby and<br />

was at that campfire as well. I let them take<br />

me to where it was warm and there was elk<br />

steak, because I am not stupid.<br />

The closest town to Davis’s spread is<br />

Burns, population 2,757—the largest town in<br />

Harney County, which is the largest county<br />

by area in Oregon. Ranching and farming<br />

are the major professions here, and it’s a<br />

precarious living; one late spring blizzard<br />

or one worse-than-usual summer drought<br />

can easily turn Davis’s tight margin of profit<br />

growing alfalfa hay, grain, and mint leaf<br />

(for tea) into a loss. Given that, Kristie and<br />

her husband, Herb, do well in the context<br />

of their environs. They pay for their own<br />

private health insurance—not Obamacare.<br />

They have one full-time employee, and for a<br />

Continued on page 290


ASK E. JEAN<br />

What to do if you’re living a lucky life?<br />

Stop making problems for yourself, already!<br />

Plus, a passel of clever retorts to those who<br />

insist on inquiring about your childless state<br />

MODELING<br />

SINFUL BEHAVIOR<br />

DEAR E. JEAN: I eloped last year with an<br />

extraordinary Spartan warrior of a man.<br />

We lead a charmed life, traveling to faraway<br />

lands, sleeping together in jungles under the<br />

stars, and I could not dream of a better mate.<br />

But something bothers me: Three years ago,<br />

after he promised to quit his James Bond–<br />

esque life to be with me and I abandoned a<br />

promising modeling career in New York to be<br />

with him, I was at a party and got blackoutdrunk.<br />

It was the first and last time in my<br />

life I got that drunk, and I let someone else (a<br />

puppy-like man whom I’m not attracted to at<br />

all, at all, at all) kiss me.<br />

I don’t have any recollection of this. It’s<br />

just black nothingness. When I was told<br />

about the kiss, it felt like I was being gaslighted<br />

by a mean joke. Nothing like this has ever<br />

happened to me—I’m known as picky and<br />

standoffish. For three years, I’ve been a sinless<br />

angel, so this fall continues to rattle my<br />

sense of identity and self-confidence! How<br />

can I shake the feeling that when all inhibitions<br />

are removed, I’m not nearly as extraordinary<br />

as I think I am? My husband and I<br />

agree: If a relationship isn’t “something for<br />

the ages,” why bother? Obviously, I’d never<br />

tell my husband, but have I ruined our great<br />

love? I’ve always prided myself on my elevated<br />

way of behaving, and now I feel the balance of<br />

our relationship is off. My husband has been<br />

perfect, and I have done a sad thing.<br />

—Fallen From Grace<br />

Hallelujah! Hallelujah! My heart rejoiceth!<br />

You are the first “sinless angel” to appear in<br />

an American advice column.<br />

I don’t know how long you’re planning on<br />

visiting us down here, Miss Fallen; Earth is<br />

a strange and marvelous place. You see, on<br />

this planet, nobody is “perfect.” We all sin<br />

around here. Today, I myself trespassed and<br />

forgave those who trespassed against me—<br />

and hell, it’s not even lunchtime yet.<br />

You’re “sinless,” Fallen, so excuse my<br />

bluntness—it’s kindly meant: People here<br />

aren’t crazy about (pardon me) “picky and<br />

standoffish” former-model angels flapping<br />

around. Accordingly, I’m 97 percent certain<br />

that a “mean joke” was, in fact, played upon<br />

you by a bunch of humorless mortal dimwits.<br />

Ping the puppy and ask him what your lips<br />

were doing. (If they were, in truth, smacking<br />

him—LOL and forgive thyself. Your love is not<br />

“ruined”; it’s tougher because<br />

you’ve learned a lesson.)<br />

Go easy on yourself, Fallen.<br />

While visiting Earth, remember<br />

that no wife or husband<br />

is “for the ages.” Get that<br />

straight now, or suffer the<br />

tortures of the damned when<br />

Mr. Spartan Warrior forgets<br />

and leaves his befouled socks<br />

on the floor, and you discover<br />

he’s a mortal man—chockfull<br />

of follies and nonsense.<br />

PS: Upon your return to<br />

Heaven, tell those two archangels,<br />

Gabriel and Michael,<br />

43 MINUTES<br />

Morning<br />

toilette<br />

14 MINUTES<br />

Cover<br />

nakedness<br />

“hello” from old E. Jean—and that they have<br />

a good time coming their way if ever they<br />

drop by.<br />

MORNING, GLORY:<br />

MINUTE BY MINUTE<br />

DEAR E. JEAN: My morning routine: Wake<br />

up at 6 a.m. Fall back asleep. Wake up again<br />

at 7 a.m. Look at my phone. Start shouting at<br />

myself. Enter bathroom. Exit feeling calm and<br />

fresh. Look at my phone. Discover I’ve spent<br />

40 minutes in there! At this point, I’m no longer<br />

calm. I start getting dressed and looking<br />

desperately for the top I could swear was on<br />

the drying rack. Now it’s 7:55. This leaves me<br />

five minutes to do my hair—and I never go<br />

a day without a compliment on my hair. It is<br />

8:26 a.m. when I finish my hair. Feeling that I<br />

am forgetting something keeps me in the house<br />

until 8:40. I arrive at work at 9:25—late. This<br />

happens every day! I cannot get myself out of<br />

this rut! Can you help?<br />

—The Girl Who Runs Late<br />

My Girl: Begin your routine 15 minutes<br />

earlier, and you’ve got yourself the kind of<br />

gorgeously ambitious day that F. Scott Fitzgerald<br />

writes of in The Great Gatsby. To wit:<br />

6:45: Open eyes.<br />

6:45–6:46: Rise to sitting<br />

30 MINUTES<br />

Arrange<br />

tresses<br />

1 MINUTE<br />

Guzzle H2O<br />

elixir<br />

position. Raise glass from<br />

bedside table. Toast to “falling<br />

in love.” Drink 10 ounces<br />

of water. All sorts of sweet,<br />

exciting health benefits are<br />

ascribed to drinking water<br />

first thing in the morning on<br />

an empty stomach (jolts metabolism,<br />

revs the digestive<br />

tract, thrills the brain, and so<br />

on), but these claims never<br />

mention the main thing: It<br />

wakes a betch up!<br />

6:47: Enter bathroom.<br />

7:30: Exit bathroom.<br />

7:31: Get dressed. Now, Gatsby had a lot<br />

of shirts, yes. But if you pry open your closet<br />

the night before and use your imagination,<br />

you can style four or five profoundly interesting<br />

outfits straight from the castoffs in<br />

the back. (I can only imagine what you may<br />

find in the front. One need only strike envy<br />

in the hearts of two or three women on the<br />

walk to work to understand how really important<br />

clothes are.) Hang your day’s outfit<br />

on the closet door the night before.<br />

7:45: Hair. (And may Auntie Eeee just say,<br />

Your hair looks stunning!)<br />

8:15: Exit house. There’ll be no frenzied<br />

loping through the premises, muttering,<br />

“Where are my sunglasses? Where are my<br />

Gregg Delman (styled by Christian Stroble; hair by Eduardo Carrasco at Ford Artists NYC; makeup by Sylwia Rakowska at Ford Artists NYC)<br />

238


damn sunglasses?” Everything you need for<br />

the day will be neatly arranged and waiting<br />

by the front door. Why? Because you put it<br />

there the night before.<br />

8:58: Arrive at work. You can’t change the<br />

world unless you get out of bed.<br />

WHAT IS IT WITH<br />

YOU DUDES AND YOUR<br />

MOTHERS-IN-LAW?<br />

DEAR E. JEAN: I’m a guy. My wife and I<br />

met when we were in college. Her mother was<br />

good-looking and very nice, and as time went<br />

on, we developed a close relationship. It eventually<br />

led to cuddling. Clothes on, then naked.<br />

She never really wore underwear, and I loved<br />

it. To sum it up, we did oral a few times and<br />

intercourse twice. She taught me things, helped<br />

me grow and experience life as most people<br />

don’t. Eventually our meetings stopped when<br />

she moved to another state, but I couldn’t quit<br />

thinking about her.<br />

After we married, I told my wife everything.<br />

She said she pretty much suspected this had<br />

been going on, but she was still mad for a while.<br />

Then she told me it turns her on to imagine<br />

what happened. That got me superexcited, and<br />

we’ve been role-playing during sex. Is this normal?<br />

Is it okay? I was researching this topic and<br />

read your answer where you were angry with the<br />

guy for propositioning his mother-in-law.<br />

—Good Karma<br />

Karma, You Bounder: You refer, of course,<br />

to “Frogman,” the British Royal Marine who<br />

snuck behind his wife’s back and pestered his<br />

poor mother-in-law for sex so often that I had<br />

to forbid him from speaking to any motherin-law,<br />

including Queen Elizabeth II.<br />

And as for you, you abysmal chump, let’s<br />

see: The woman who taught you to “experience<br />

life as most people don’t” is now out of<br />

the picture. The lovely, trusting young wife<br />

you betrayed—lied to, cheated on—does<br />

she leave you? Does she give you a running<br />

kick out the door? Does she even excoriate<br />

you for your faithlessness? No! Her amorous<br />

romps with you are now twice as exciting!<br />

What can I say? You’re one of those<br />

irrepressibly lucky people who escape life’s<br />

moral muckheaps unscathed. So, naw. I<br />

will not be “angry” with you. (Just ignore<br />

the silent rebuke in my eyes.)<br />

And speaking of mothers…<br />

THE AGONY OF<br />

AUNTS<br />

DEAR E. JEAN: I’m a married 38-year-old<br />

woman who does not want children. My husband,<br />

parents, and dearest friends have always<br />

supported this decision. I’m a devoted aunt to<br />

my nieces and nephews and have tons of respect<br />

for parents. I just don’t want to be one.<br />

However, everyone seems to be pressuring<br />

me to have kids! People I don’t even know<br />

well—friends of friends, random taxi drivers—constantly<br />

comment: “Why don’t you<br />

have kids yet?” or “You should have kids before<br />

it’s too late!”<br />

Can you please help me find a polite, nonaggressive<br />

way to shut down these conversations<br />

without sounding like a kid hater?<br />

—So Ova It!<br />

Ova, My Orchid: When people ask, “Why<br />

don’t you have kids yet?,” smile, open your<br />

arms wide, and cry out: “Eeeeeegads! Am I<br />

not enough for you?”<br />

Q: My boyfriend asks why I don’t dress up like I<br />

once did. He says he longs for “the good old days”<br />

when I showed I cared about him. But the truth is,<br />

I’m just so comfortable with him that I feel I can be<br />

myself. E. Jean, must I put on a dress and mascara?<br />

A: Yes, you must. You’ll look great in the dress.<br />

He’ll feel great that you dressed up, and nothing<br />

will be as great as you both coming home<br />

together and putting on your old pajamas.<br />

And then keep smiling, because the question<br />

will never, never, never cease. When<br />

you turn 50, people will ask: “Are you considering<br />

adoption?” (Answer: “Yes. Elton<br />

John and his husband, David Furnish, are<br />

considering adopting me.”) When you turn<br />

60, the question will be: “Why didn’t you<br />

have kids?” (Answer: “Because I saw how<br />

your parents’ kids turned out.”) When you<br />

turn 70, the question will be: “Do you regret<br />

not having kids?” (Answer: “Are you kidding?<br />

I still get up every morning and thank<br />

God I don’t have children!”) When you turn<br />

80, the question will be: “Do you wish you<br />

had kids to help you with the house?” (Answer:<br />

“I wish I had rich kids—can you lend<br />

me $1,700?”) When you turn 90, the question<br />

will be: “Who will be at your deathbed,<br />

since you don’t have kids?” (Answer: “My<br />

husband, my dog, and my seven lovers.”)<br />

And when you die serenely at 103, the first<br />

question the obit writer from the New York<br />

Times will ask your niece: “Why didn’t your<br />

aunt have kids?”<br />

METTA DATA<br />

DEAR E. JEAN: I’m curious: Should I have sex<br />

before marriage?<br />

—XX Metta<br />

Miss Metta: Before I respond, please answer<br />

two questions for me: (1) How old are you?<br />

(2) Are you in love?<br />

—Ravishing Regards, E. Jean<br />

AUNTIE EEEE: I’m 22. Just graduating college.<br />

An old soul. As for being in love, every day<br />

is like Hozier’s song—I fall in love with someone<br />

new. Keeping this in mind, I’ve been in love<br />

countless times, but I’ve never been in a relationship<br />

with a significant other.<br />

—XX Metta<br />

Miss Metta: Well, then, to answer your<br />

question: Do whatever you like before marriage—let<br />

the chaps pursue you the way every<br />

woman wants to be pursued, or move to<br />

a hut in the wilderness—it’s after marriage<br />

when you must get down to business and<br />

“have sex” as often as possible, because if<br />

you don’t, you won’t be having much sex at<br />

all during your divorce.<br />

Ask a question! E.Jean@AskEJean.com or<br />

Twitter.com/ejeancarroll. Read past columns at<br />

ELLE.com/life-love/ask-e-jean/. You can watch<br />

videos, write with anonymity, and exchange<br />

genius tips on Advice Vixens at AskEJean.com.<br />

And if you’d like a date: Tawkify.com.<br />

239


STEP 1<br />

FILL IN BROWS<br />

STEP 2<br />

FLUFF + BLEND SEAMLESSLY<br />

KABUKI<br />

BLENDER<br />

BY BROW STYLIST<br />

Barbara Palvin<br />

lorealparisusa.com<br />

PRO TIP: FOR AN UNDONE<br />

BROW LOOK, BRUSH HAIRS<br />

IN OPPOSITE DIRECTION.<br />

DEFINE YOUR BROWS, EXPRESS YOURSELF.<br />

FROM NATURAL-LOOKING<br />

TO STATEMENT-MAKING BROWS<br />

BECAUSE YOU’RE WORTH IT.<br />

NEW<br />

CREAMY CRAYON + UNIQUE KABUKI BRUSH<br />

AVAILABLE IN 3 SHADES<br />

©2017 L’Oréal USA, Inc.


THE<br />

BEAUTIFUL<br />

NOW<br />

In the hypercompetitive, rarefied<br />

world of professional beauty,<br />

what defines the look of the<br />

moment? In the following 24<br />

pages, the pulchritudinous Bella<br />

Hadid and many more models—<br />

from social media phenoms to<br />

far-flung global discoveries—<br />

prove the answer is, for once,<br />

truly manifold. Consider this<br />

issue a celebration of progress—<br />

for diversity of skin color, hair<br />

texture, and body shape, yes, but<br />

also dreams and ideas—and a bid<br />

for much more of it to come.<br />

Terry Tsiolis<br />

Gold and diamond<br />

pendant necklace,<br />

CARTIER, $4,000,<br />

visit cartier.com.<br />

For details, see<br />

Shopping Guide.


SUPER<br />

GIRLS<br />

Their backstories may vary, but these six top models have plenty<br />

in common: good genes, professional discipline, and the kind<br />

of star power and charisma that jump through the lens and stop<br />

fashion lovers in their tracks. By Molly Langmuir<br />

Photographed by Terry Tsiolis Styled by Samira Nasr<br />

242


HAILEY<br />

BALDWIN<br />

Daughter of The Usual Suspects<br />

actor Stephen, cousin to model<br />

Ireland, niece to Alec (not to<br />

mention onetime love interest of<br />

Justin Bieber), Hailey Baldwin has<br />

made a seamless transition from<br />

Hollywood royalty to fashion rock<br />

star. “It just happened naturally<br />

and progressed,” says Baldwin,<br />

20, who switched her focus from<br />

ballet to modeling when she<br />

was 17. Now best friends with<br />

fellow social-media-queens–<br />

turned–models Kendall Jenner<br />

and Gigi Hadid, Baldwin has a<br />

whopping 9.4 million followers on<br />

Instagram, where her feed brims<br />

with not only glamour shots from<br />

fashion shoots and shows around<br />

the world but also Bible verses<br />

(“My faith is something people<br />

sometimes get surprised by”)<br />

and casual, makeup-free shots.<br />

“I think naturally pretty is the way<br />

to go,” says Baldwin, currently<br />

the face of Guess and a cohost of<br />

TBS’s celebrity rap-battle show,<br />

Drop the Mic. She cites another<br />

beachy blonde, Claudia Schiffer,<br />

as her beauty icon. “Girls should<br />

feel confident in themselves<br />

without having to alter anything.”<br />

Far left: Cotton briefs, CALVIN KLEIN<br />

UNDERWEAR, $28, visit calvinklein<br />

.com. Rose gold and diamond earrings,<br />

HEARTS ON FIRE, $5,900. Right:<br />

Cotton T-shirt, CALVIN KLEIN<br />

UNDERWEAR, $40 (for pack of 3). Rigid<br />

Re-Release jeans, FRAME DENIM,<br />

$269. Silk suspenders, THE TIE BAR,<br />

$25. Rose gold and diamond earring,<br />

HEARTS ON FIRE, $5,900 (for pair).<br />

Steel watch, ROLEX, $6,600. Patent<br />

leather oxfords, SAINT LAURENT,<br />

$695. For details, see Shopping Guide.<br />

243


JASMINE<br />

TOOKES<br />

On Jasmine Tookes’s twenty-fourth<br />

birthday, in 2015, she learned that<br />

after three years of walking the<br />

Victoria’s Secret runway, she was<br />

finally becoming an Angel—one of<br />

the bewinged models who rep the<br />

brand year-round. It was a dream<br />

come true: As a little girl, Tookes<br />

had staged Victoria’s Secret shows<br />

at home for her mom, who was a<br />

stylist. “I had crowns and wings and<br />

scarves that I’d tie in crazy ways,”<br />

she says. She’d particularly looked<br />

up to Tyra Banks for her confidence<br />

and skill, and also for having<br />

been the first black woman to don<br />

the jeweled, multimillion-dollar<br />

Fantasy Bra, an event that basically<br />

anoints its wearer as the sexiest<br />

woman in the world. Victoria’s<br />

Secret knows that whichever model<br />

walks the runway in “Fantasy”<br />

will generate break-the-Internet<br />

numbers on social media. In 2016,<br />

when Tookes found out she’d be<br />

following in Banks’s footsteps and<br />

wearing that year’s version, she<br />

burst into tears. After moving to<br />

New York from Orange County,<br />

California, to model at 18, she’d too<br />

often found herself the only black<br />

model in a show. But since then,<br />

she says, “the industry has grown.”<br />

Last February, for the first time, at<br />

least one model of color appeared<br />

on every New York Fashion Week<br />

runway, and more than 30 percent<br />

of the models were nonwhite.<br />

244


Far left: Cotton swimsuit,<br />

MISSONI, $395, at Missoni,<br />

NYC. Gold and diamond wrap<br />

bracelet, DAVID YURMAN,<br />

$4,500. Her own bandanna. Left:<br />

Bead-embroidered jacket, $5,600,<br />

satin jean shorts, $2,500, both,<br />

MARC JACOBS, visit marcjacobs<br />

.com. Gold and diamond earring,<br />

MARIA TASH, $575. Gold and<br />

diamond rings, both, TIFFANY &<br />

CO., $2,200–$2,950 each. Her own<br />

earrings, worn on left. For details,<br />

see Shopping Guide.<br />

245


BELLA<br />

HADID<br />

As a Malibu teen, Bella Hadid—<br />

half Dutch, half Palestinian,<br />

all American—spent her time<br />

working at a juice bar, riding<br />

horses, and “having the high<br />

school experience,” she told<br />

ELLE, or as much as that’s<br />

possible when your mom is a Real<br />

Housewife of Beverly Hills and<br />

your sister, Gigi, has a burgeoning<br />

modeling career. But once Hadid<br />

met with a modeling agent at 18,<br />

“things went a little more full<br />

force than I expected.” It’s an<br />

understated way of describing<br />

the speed with which the now<br />

20-year-old ascended to the<br />

supernova status she currently<br />

holds: 11.2 million Instagram<br />

followers who fanatically follow<br />

her every move; more than 30<br />

magazine covers in 2016 alone;<br />

campaigns for Topshop, Balmain,<br />

and Dior Makeup. After long<br />

looking up to ’90s supermodels<br />

like Linda Evangelista, Hadid<br />

is now often compared to them.<br />

“There’s this extra x factor that<br />

makes these girls superstars,”<br />

designer Jeremy Scott told ELLE.<br />

“Bella has that.”


Nylon Lycra swimsuit,<br />

TOMMY BAHAMA, $112,<br />

visit tommybahama.com.<br />

Antique gold earrings,<br />

GLENN SPIRO. For details,<br />

see Shopping Guide.<br />

247


CANDICE<br />

HUFFINE<br />

When Candice Huffine was 15,<br />

her bedroom walls were plastered<br />

with her favorite beauty queens,<br />

and she had years of pageant<br />

competitions already under her<br />

belt. So when she traveled from<br />

DC, her hometown, to New<br />

York for modeling-agency open<br />

calls, she assumed it would be as<br />

simple as signing on the dotted<br />

line. Instead, she heard over and<br />

over that they’d love to have<br />

her—but only if she lost 15 pounds.<br />

Ultimately, one agency signed her<br />

as a plus-size model, though the<br />

category left her confused: “I was<br />

a size 6! I went so far as to show<br />

them the label in my pants,” she<br />

says, noting that these days, she’s<br />

a size 12. She started booking jobs<br />

immediately, first for catalogs<br />

and magazines like Seventeen, and<br />

then, pivotally, she landed a 2011<br />

cover of Italian Vogue: “Previously,<br />

curvy girls had lived a quiet,<br />

commercial-catalog existence,”<br />

she says. “It ignited some<br />

lightbulbs in people’s heads.”<br />

In 2015, Huffine broke another<br />

barrier when she appeared in<br />

Pirelli’s iconic pinup calendar.<br />

“Growing up, my favorite model<br />

was Laetitia Casta, the curviest girl<br />

at the time,” she says. “It’s vitally<br />

important, moving forward, that<br />

there’s a woman every girl can<br />

identify with.”<br />

248


Far left: Nylon Lycra swimsuit,<br />

NORMA KAMALI, $150, visit<br />

normakamali.com. Gold hoop earrings,<br />

DAVID YURMAN, $2,500. Leather<br />

sandals, PIERRE HARDY, $845. Left:<br />

Denim shirt, LEVI’S, $70, visit levi<br />

.com. Gold chain, VERDURA, $1,425.<br />

Gold pinkie ring, DAVID YURMAN,<br />

$1,950. For details, see Shopping Guide.<br />

249


MARIA<br />

BORGES<br />

Born in the midst of the civil<br />

war in her native Angola, Maria<br />

Borges was raised by her sister<br />

from the age of 11, when their<br />

mother died. Often teased for<br />

being so tall and lean, Borges,<br />

who revered Naomi Campbell,<br />

entered a modeling competition<br />

in Luanda, the country’s capital,<br />

at 17, and while she didn’t<br />

win, she did land a contract.<br />

In her first New York Fashion<br />

Week, in 2011, she walked in 17<br />

shows, despite barely speaking<br />

any English (“If someone said<br />

something to me, I just smiled,”<br />

she says). By her second season,<br />

she was a Givenchy exclusive<br />

(she refers to Givenchy’s then–<br />

creative director Riccardo Tisci<br />

as her godfather); countless<br />

editorials, fashion shows, and<br />

advertising campaigns later,<br />

in 2015, she became the first<br />

black Victoria’s Secret model to<br />

rock her natural hair in a short<br />

Afro on the runway. “I wanted<br />

to inspire women around the<br />

world to embrace their own hair<br />

and texture, especially African<br />

women,” she says. Most recently,<br />

she was named the new face<br />

of L’Oréal Paris. “I’m happy to<br />

see this embrace of diversity<br />

happening right now,” she says.<br />

“But I hope it’s forever. Girls with<br />

short hair, tall girls, black girls,<br />

Chinese girls, Korean girls—<br />

we all follow fashion.”<br />

250


Far left: Cotton top, tights,<br />

$1,015 each, lace skirt, $7,500,<br />

brass necklace, $1,695, all,<br />

BALENCIAGA, visit balenciaga<br />

.com. Left: Gold and diamond<br />

earring, 2017 TIFFANY BLUE<br />

BOOK COLLECTION, call<br />

800-843-3269. For details, see<br />

Shopping Guide.<br />

Beauty Secret: On lids, try<br />

L’ORÉAL PARIS Infallible 24 HR<br />

Eye Shadow in Glistening Garnet.<br />

251


ELSA<br />

HOSK<br />

“Beauty is changing,” says the<br />

5'9½" Elsa Hosk, 28. “It’s more<br />

about finding someone with<br />

beliefs that you look up to versus<br />

just a pretty face.” For Hosk,<br />

a highlight of last February’s<br />

fashion shows was meeting<br />

Halima Aden, the Somali<br />

American model who walked the<br />

runway for Max Mara and Alberta<br />

Ferretti in a hijab and braces. “I<br />

was such a silly fangirl,” she says.<br />

“It’s more important than ever to<br />

stand up and have a voice.” After<br />

being “thrown into this crazy<br />

industry” at 15, then playing<br />

professional basketball for a<br />

short time in her native Sweden,<br />

Hosk moved to New York to<br />

model full-time at 20, quickly<br />

landing print work for Guess,<br />

H&M, and now Givenchy, as well<br />

as shows like Altuzarra, Oscar de<br />

la Renta, and Victoria’s Secret.<br />

“You’re constantly judged on<br />

how you look,” she says of her<br />

job. “But over the years, I’ve<br />

come to not care so much. You<br />

can’t be perfect—no one is.”<br />

252


Far left: Leather dress, silk<br />

chiffon dress, both, GIVENCHY<br />

BY RICCARDO TISCI, similar<br />

styles at Givenchy, NYC. Left:<br />

Polyamide elastane swimsuit,<br />

GOTTEX, $60, collection<br />

at Saks Fifth Avenue stores<br />

nationwide. Satin boots,<br />

GIANVITO ROSSI, $2,195. For<br />

details, see Shopping Guide.<br />

Models Maria Borges, Candice Huffine,<br />

and Jasmine Tookes at IMG (hair by<br />

Romina Manenti at Home Agency for<br />

Amika; makeup by Frankie Boyd at Tim<br />

Howard Management for Tom Ford Beauty<br />

[all]; manicure by Gina Edwards at Kate<br />

Ryan Inc. for Dior Beauty; casting by Zan<br />

Ludlum at Zan Casting [all]). Models Elsa<br />

Hosk and Hailey Baldwin at IMG (hair by<br />

Kayla MiChele at Streeters for Message<br />

Organics; manicure by Elisa Ferri at See<br />

Management for Chanel Beauty). Model<br />

Bella Hadid at IMG (hair by Ward at the<br />

Wall Group for Living Proof). For more<br />

information, see Shopping Guide.<br />

253


EXPRESS<br />

Lucky us—getting to create a beauty-themed issue in a year in<br />

which American beauty is being redefined, everywhere from<br />

prime-time TV to fashion’s most-watched runways.<br />

Let’s take a second to consider the countless ideas and ideals<br />

that add up to one spectacular now<br />

American beauty doesn’t have a single<br />

definition, because no one face or body<br />

type could ever possibly exemplify all<br />

of us. From the very beginning, this<br />

was a nation of immigrants. In one way<br />

or another, we hail from everywhere,<br />

and the faces we see in the mirror embody<br />

countless, multifarious threads<br />

of DNA that have woven together to<br />

make each of us unique. No less an icon<br />

of truth-speaking than Maya Angelou<br />

once said, “In diversity there is beauty<br />

and there is strength.” To which we will<br />

add that there is power, and wonder, and<br />

joy. How dull would life be if we were all<br />

alike? American women represent every<br />

skin tone, every size, and every shape—<br />

all singular, all gorgeous—and this variety<br />

makes us more interesting and more<br />

indomitable, both together and individually.<br />

No matter how we choose to express<br />

ourselves with our hairstyles, makeup,<br />

and clothes—and no matter how often<br />

we decide to change those things<br />

up—we all have stories to tell, and all of<br />

them are good ones. Vive la différence!<br />

254


©2017 L’Oréal USA, Inc.


©2017 L’Oréal USA, Inc.


NO PURCHASE NECESSARY TO ENTER OR WIN THE NEW FACE OF AMERICAN BEAUTY SWEEPSTAKES. THIS SWEEPSTAKES IS IN NO WAY SPONSORED, ENDORSED OR ADMINISTERED BY, OR OTHERWISE<br />

ASSOCIATED WITH, INSTAGRAM OR FACEBOOK. YOU UNDERSTAND THAT YOU ARE PROVIDING YOUR INFORMATION TO SPONSOR AND NOT TO INSTAGRAM OR FACEBOOK. THE NEW FACE OF AMERICAN<br />

BEAUTY SWEEPSTAKES Sponsored by Hearst Communications, Inc. Two ways to enter from 4/18/17 at 12:01 AM (ET)-5/16/17 at 11:59 PM (ET): (i) Entrant must follow Sponsor’s Instagram feed at @ELLEUSA and @LOREAL-<br />

MAKEUP (the “Instagram Feed”) and during the period that begins 4/18/17 at 12:01 AM (ET) through 5/16/17 at 11:59 PM (ET) (the “Entry Period”), follow the online instructions to upload and submit ONE photograph reflecting<br />

your vision of The New Face of American Beauty using #BecauseYoureWorthItSweepstakes; or mail a 3 ½” x 5” postcard or letter with your name, age, complete address, telephone number, email address (optional) and a photo with<br />

first-class postage affxed to: ELLE, The New Face of American Beauty, 300 W. 57th Street, 24th FL, NY, NY 10019. Mail entry must be postmarked by 5/16/17 and received by 5/21/17. If you do not have an Instagram account, you<br />

can sign up for one for free either at your mobile phone app store or at www.instagram.com. One winner and a guest will be flown to Los Angeles to attend ELLE’s Women in Hollywood event on October 16, 2017. ELLE will provide<br />

accommodations for two nights, airfare, and ground transportation to and from the airport in Los Angeles. ARV: $2,500. Odds of winning will depend upon the total number of eligible entries received. Important Notice: You may<br />

be charged data fees in accordance with the terms of your service agreement with your carrier. Must have reached the age of majority and be a legal resident of the US, DC or Canada (excluding Quebec). Void in Puerto Rico and<br />

where prohibited by law. Entrants via Instagram must have their Instagram profile set to “public.” Sweepstakes subject to complete offcial rules available at ELLE.COM/THENEWFACEOFAMERICANBEAUTYSWEEPSTAKES.


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WITH 33 SHADES, TRUE MATCH CAN GIVE YOU THE PERFECT MATCH. TRUE MATCH HAS AN EXCLUSIVE<br />

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*Money back guarantee, up to $15.95. Restrictions apply. For details, call 1-800-724-7944.


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C10<br />

W7<br />

W6<br />

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C4<br />

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Find your shade at lorealparisusa.com/truematch


AWS OF<br />

ATTRACTION<br />

Photographed by Terry Tsiolis Styled by Samira Nasr


Crayola-hued puffers and<br />

logo-laden sweats form<br />

an unlikely alliance with<br />

makeup, glorious makeup,<br />

modeled by a cast of<br />

fashion’s most intriguing<br />

new head-turners. And<br />

what faces they are.…<br />

Model Hannah Bennett wears:<br />

Polyamide vest, BALENCIAGA,<br />

$2,525, at Balenciaga, NYC. Nylon<br />

spandex bikini top, $62, bottom,<br />

$60, both, TAVIK.<br />

Model Alecia Morais wears: Viscose<br />

bodysuit, VERSACE, $675, at select<br />

Versace boutiques nationwide. For<br />

details, see Shopping Guide. Makeup<br />

artist Frankie Boyd used shades from<br />

the M.A.C Trend Forecast Spring 17/<br />

Eye palette on Morais’s lids and lips.<br />

261


Model Hyunji Shin<br />

wears: Cotton and silk<br />

top, DSQUARED2,<br />

$700, visit dsquared2<br />

.com. Cotton-blend<br />

pants, ADIDAS<br />

ORIGINALS, $70.<br />

262


Model Misty Downs wears:<br />

Gore-Tex parka, LOEWE, $1,150,<br />

visit loewe.com. Cotton hooded<br />

jumpsuit, PACO RABANNE,<br />

$1,790. Nylon spandex sports<br />

bra, VICTORIA’S SECRET, $25.<br />

For details, see Shopping Guide.<br />

On brows, try MAYBELLINE<br />

NEW YORK Brow Precise<br />

Fiber Volumizer.<br />

263


Model Hannah Bennett<br />

wears: Lambskin top,<br />

CHANEL, at select Chanel<br />

boutiques nationwide. Nylon<br />

jacket, NIKE, $100. Boyd<br />

coated Bennett’s lashes with<br />

DIOR Diorshow Waterproof<br />

Mascara in Catwalk Blue.<br />

264


Model Charlene Hogger wears:<br />

Nylon puffer coat, CANADA<br />

GOOSE x VETEMENTS, $2,750,<br />

collection at ssense.com. Polyamide<br />

elastane swimsuit, GUESS x A<br />

BIKINI A DAY, $79. Velour pants,<br />

ADIDAS ORIGINALS, $40. Steel<br />

watch, OMEGA, $4,900. Leather<br />

fanny pack, ASOS, $28. Leather<br />

sneakers, REEBOK, $90. For<br />

details, see Shopping Guide.<br />

265


Model Bhumika Arora wears:<br />

Cotton sweatshirt, ALEXANDER<br />

WANG, $165, similar styles at<br />

alexanderwang.com. Mesh top,<br />

PUMA, $45. Neoprene pants,<br />

leather sandals, all, COURRÈGES.<br />

Ceramic watch, CHANEL, $5,400.<br />

Metal mesh belt bag, KENZO.<br />

266


Model Danielle Gordon wears: Wool<br />

jacket, SACAI, visit sacai.jp. Cotton<br />

hoodie, $65, sweatpants, $60, both,<br />

CHAMPION. Magnesium watch on<br />

rubber strap, BULGARI, $4,950.<br />

Synthetic patent leather sneakers,<br />

REEBOK, $160. For details, see<br />

Shopping Guide. Boyd dabbed TOM<br />

FORD Violet Fatale on lips.<br />

267


Model Kenya Kinski Jones<br />

wears: Cotton hoodie,<br />

ADIDAS ORIGINALS,<br />

$70, visit adidas.com.<br />

Ceramic watch on rubber<br />

strap, OMEGA, $11,700.<br />

For details, see Shopping<br />

Guide. Create the ultimate<br />

smoky eye with LANCÔME<br />

Auda[city] in Paris eye<br />

shadow palette.<br />

268


Model Sophia Pastorius-<br />

Young wears: Sequin-panel<br />

bodysuit, MUGLER, $1,450,<br />

collection at Barneys New<br />

York. Crystal-embellished<br />

velour pumps, CHRISTIAN<br />

LOUBOUTIN, $1,095.<br />

269


Model Georgia Pratt wears:<br />

Mesh top, SPORTS UNLIMITED,<br />

$10, visit sportsunlimitedinc<br />

.com. Jacquard bra, CHANTELLE,<br />

$72. Denim jumpsuit, FENDI,<br />

$1,800. On lids, try a wash of<br />

L’ORÉAL PARIS Infallible Paints<br />

Eye Shadow in Shady Violet.<br />

Models Danielle Gordon, Georgia<br />

Pratt, Hannah Bennett, Hyunji<br />

Shin, and Sophia Pastorius-Young<br />

at IMG (hair by Kayla MiChele at<br />

Streeters for Message Organics;<br />

makeup by Frankie Boyd at<br />

Streeters for Tom Ford Beauty<br />

[all]; manicure by Gina Edwards<br />

at Kate Ryan Inc. for Chanel<br />

Beauty; casting by Zan Ludlum<br />

at Zan Casting [all]; produced by<br />

Una Simone Harris at Wanted<br />

Media; fashion assistant: Yashua<br />

Simmons [all]). Models Alecia<br />

Morais, Bhumika Arora, and<br />

Charlene Hogger at the Society<br />

Management, and Kenya Kinski<br />

Jones at the Lions (hair by Peter<br />

Gray at Home Agency for Phyto;<br />

manicure by Dawn Sterling at<br />

MAM-NYC for Dior Beauty;<br />

produced by Lisa Weatherby at<br />

Home Agency). Model Misty<br />

Downs at IMG (hair by Ward at<br />

the Wall Group for Living Proof;<br />

manicure by Gina Edwards at Kate<br />

Ryan Inc. for Chanel Beauty)<br />

270


Model Sophia Pastorius-<br />

Young wears: Tricot-blend<br />

top, ADIDAS ORIGINALS BY<br />

ALEXANDER WANG, $150,<br />

visit alexanderwang.com. Silver<br />

aluminum watch on Nike Volt<br />

Sport Band, APPLE WATCH<br />

NIKE+, $369. For details, see<br />

Shopping Guide. On nails,<br />

manicurist Gina Edwards used<br />

DEBORAH LIPPMANN in<br />

Weird Science and Xanadu.<br />

271


Otherworldly actress<br />

Mia Goth has slayed Shia<br />

and bewitched a spate of<br />

Hollywood auteurs. Here,<br />

with the art of high-drama<br />

hair, makeup, and fashion’s<br />

best spring looks, she quickchanges<br />

through a spectrum<br />

of roles—and continues<br />

to keep us guessing.<br />

By Seth Plattner<br />

MERICAN<br />

GOTH<br />

PHOTOGRAPHED BY PATRIC SHAW<br />

STYLED BY SABINA SCHREDER


Far left: Cashmere sweater, $1,295,<br />

cotton poplin shirt, $495, both,<br />

MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION,<br />

visit michaelkors.com. Jeans,<br />

LEVI’S, $88. Gold necklace,<br />

DAVID YURMAN, $2,600.<br />

Left: Embroidered dress, silk<br />

crepe bodysuit, both, LOUIS<br />

VUITTON, visit louisvuitton<br />

.com. White gold and diamond<br />

earring, DE BEERS. White<br />

gold and diamond rings,<br />

both, HEARTS ON FIRE,<br />

$3,450–$6,850 each. Stylist’s<br />

own headband. For details, see<br />

Shopping Guide. To get Goth’s<br />

lip, try NARS Larger Than Life<br />

Lip Gloss in Rouge Tribal.<br />

273


Right: Cotton trench coat,<br />

MAISON MARGIELA, $3,280,<br />

at Maison Margiela boutiques<br />

nationwide. Embellished<br />

T-shirt, DOLCE & GABBANA,<br />

$355. Custom hat, BRIXTON.<br />

Stylist’s own scarves. To create<br />

a soft wave, hairstylist Kevin<br />

Ryan blow-dried Goth’s hair<br />

with UNITE Boosta spray and<br />

added waves with R SESSION<br />

Tidal Waver iron.<br />

Far right: Leather jacket,<br />

COACH 1941, $2,500, similar<br />

styles at coach.com. Printed<br />

dress, GUCCI, $4,400.<br />

Cashmere hat, DIOR. Stylist’s<br />

own rings. For details, see<br />

Shopping Guide.<br />

Hair by Kevin Ryan for Unite;<br />

makeup by Alice Lane at<br />

the Wall Group for NARS;<br />

manicure by Mar y Soul at<br />

Kate Ryan for Dior; fashion<br />

assistants: Natasha Devereux<br />

and Lexi Lampel<br />

274


In 2013, then 19-year-old London actress Mia<br />

Goth got her big break: a buzzy movie, a legendary<br />

director, famous costars. All she had<br />

to do was, well, simulate a lot of graphic sex,<br />

intimidate and overpower full-grown men—<br />

sometimes with a gun—and then defile Charlotte<br />

Gainsbourg. (Google at your own risk.)<br />

The film was Nymphomaniac Vol. II, the<br />

second installment of lightning-rod director<br />

Lars von Trier’s two-part, five-and-a-halfhour,<br />

unrated psychosexual epic starring<br />

Gainsbourg and Shia LaBeouf. As a character<br />

named P, Goth established<br />

herself as a unique<br />

kind of actress—one who<br />

looked so fresh-faced<br />

and naïve as to resemble<br />

an actual doll, but was a<br />

mysterious and, at times,<br />

disquieting provocateur<br />

underneath.<br />

Since Nymphomaniac,<br />

Goth, now 23, has continued<br />

to subvert her innocent<br />

visage—the big<br />

brown eyes, the button<br />

nose, the pretty pout—by<br />

choosing work that flirts<br />

with the weird, the sexual,<br />

or the weird and sexual.<br />

In 2015, she starred<br />

in Miu Miu’s spring ads,<br />

dressed in the season’s<br />

ruffles and florals while<br />

lying seductively on an<br />

unkempt bed; the ads<br />

were banned in the UK<br />

for sexualizing someone<br />

who looked so young—<br />

when, in fact, Goth was<br />

21 at the time of the<br />

shoot. (She’s also maintained<br />

her relationship<br />

with the house, having<br />

recently appeared in<br />

the spring campaign for<br />

Prada’s La Femme fragrance.)<br />

That same year,<br />

she starred in The Survivalist,<br />

a film that follows a hard-edged loner<br />

(Martin McCann) making his way through a<br />

postapocalyptic world—until he meets Milja<br />

(Goth), whose guile and charm he’s unable<br />

to resist. Then, this spring, there was the<br />

twisty-turny, downright freaky A Cure for<br />

Wellness, director Gore Verbinski’s take on<br />

cerebral horror, in which Goth was so hypnotic<br />

as Hannah—a repressed woman-child<br />

trapped in an eerie Swiss hospital—that<br />

Verbinski says there were moments “when I<br />

was so seduced by her performance, I forgot<br />

to say ‘Cut.’ ”<br />

Indeed, it’s that tightrope walk between<br />

coquettish intrigue and dark intensity that<br />

makes Goth one of the most exciting young<br />

actors in Hollywood. “I don’t really know any<br />

other way to do it,” says Goth, the daughter<br />

of an ice-trucker father and former-waitress<br />

mother, who spent her childhood in both<br />

Canada and Brazil—and then, at 12, returned<br />

to her native London, where she was discovered<br />

by Storm Model Management. “I never<br />

went to school to study acting, so I’m doing<br />

this purely on feeling, and I give it my all.” For<br />

his part, Verbinski describes her approach as<br />

“channeling reality from finding something<br />

to believe in, and then ravenously committing<br />

to it. When she does that, when she connects,<br />

it’s transformative.”<br />

Increasingly, Goth has also become one to<br />

watch offscreen as well: Soon after Nymphomaniac<br />

wrapped, she started dating costar<br />

LaBeouf—who’s known for public, emotional<br />

pendulum swings, including wearing<br />

a bag on his head bearing the words “i am<br />

not famous anymore” (on the red carpet,<br />

around his neighborhood, etc.). In October<br />

of last year, Goth married LaBeouf in Las<br />

Vegas at the Viva Las Vegas Wedding Chapel,<br />

broadcasting their nuptials via Facebook<br />

Live. The tabloids can’t get enough of them.<br />

Still, despite the couple’s<br />

penchant for the offbeat,<br />

when it comes to his wife’s<br />

talents, LaBeouf sounds<br />

like any other proud partner:<br />

“Mia is the most beguiling<br />

actor I have ever<br />

known. She’s fearless yet<br />

diffident, laser-focused<br />

and wide-eyed. She’s a<br />

truth seeker.”<br />

LaBeouf may be biased,<br />

but some of the<br />

world’s most visionary<br />

filmmakers seem equally<br />

impressed. Later this<br />

year, Goth will join Anya<br />

Taylor-Joy in Spanish writer-director<br />

Sergio G. Sánchez’s<br />

Marrowbone, about<br />

four children hiding out<br />

on a mysterious farm after<br />

their mother dies. She’ll<br />

then star alongside Dakota<br />

Johnson and Tilda Swinton<br />

as a dancer who disappears<br />

in Suspiria, from A<br />

Bigger Splash director Luca<br />

Guadagnino. Next, she’ll<br />

film Claire Denis’s High<br />

Life, which follows Goth,<br />

Robert Pattinson, and<br />

Patricia Arquette as they<br />

travel into deep space.<br />

So much so fast must<br />

be a little draining, no?<br />

“When I finish a film, I<br />

want to feel drained,” says Goth, who, despite<br />

being so raw in her work, remains circumspect<br />

about the details of her personal<br />

life. “I want to feel like I couldn’t have possibly<br />

done any more to service a character and<br />

a story. Then I want to go back to life and recharge<br />

so I have something to bring back to<br />

my work. Otherwise you run the risk of playing<br />

yourself. And that doesn’t interest me.”<br />

275


CLEAN<br />

BREAK<br />

CLEAN<br />

BREAK<br />

Pack your bags—but leave your baggage behind. Nothing tunes<br />

out the noise like a sleek, simple suit in purist white.<br />

Photographed by David Bellemere Styled by David Vandewal


Far left: Nylon swimsuit, $90, leather<br />

handbag, both, CALVIN KLEIN, visit<br />

calvinklein.com. Sunglasses, MIU MIU,<br />

$500. Silver earring, MARIA BLACK, $240.<br />

Silver earring, CHARLOTTE CHESNAIS,<br />

$290, worn throughout. Silver bracelet,<br />

$315, ring, $90, both, MIANSAI. White gold<br />

and diamond ring, CARTIER, $5,600.<br />

Left: Elastane-blend swimsuit, LAUREN<br />

RALPH LAUREN, $104, visit ralphlauren<br />

.com. Silver earrings, $350, cuff, $890,<br />

all, AGMES. White gold and diamond<br />

stud, HEARTS ON FIRE, $895 (for pair),<br />

worn throughout. Crystal arm cuffs, both,<br />

MAISON MARGIELA, $1,190 each. Silver<br />

bracelets, $895–$2,900 each, ring, $400,<br />

all, LAGOS. Silver bracelet, JOHN HARDY,<br />

$795. Silver cuff, $370, ring, $160, both,<br />

EDDIE BORGO. Silver rings, both, MARIA<br />

BLACK, $140–$155 each. Silver rings, both,<br />

MIANSAI, $60–$90 each. White gold and<br />

diamond ring, CARTIER, $5,600. For<br />

details, see Shopping Guide.<br />

277


Viscose vest, BOSS, $945, visit<br />

hugoboss.com. Metal mesh top,<br />

$7,190, skirt, $7,590, plexiglass<br />

earring, $260 (for pair), all,<br />

PACO RABANNE. Silver cuff,<br />

EDDIE BORGO, $370. Silver<br />

ring, CLOSER BY WWAKE, $176.<br />

Silver rings, MIANSAI, $90–$125<br />

each. Chain-metal handbag,<br />

KENZO. Leather sandals,<br />

ISABEL MARANT, $690.<br />

278


Cotton T-shirt, $150, jersey<br />

hooded top, $540, plastic<br />

skirt, $2,350, plexiglass<br />

earring, $260 (for pair),<br />

calfskin handbag, $1,850,<br />

all, PACO RABANNE, visit<br />

pacorabanne.com. Nylon<br />

bikini bottom, JADE SWIM,<br />

$80. Brass lipstick case (worn<br />

around neck), VALENTINO<br />

GARAVANI, $895. For details,<br />

see Shopping Guide.<br />

Beauty Secret: Get lashes as<br />

big as the waves you’re chasing<br />

with MAYBELLINE NEW<br />

YORK Volum’ Express The<br />

Colossal Waterproof Mascara.<br />

279


Viscose dress, TOM FORD, $3,450,<br />

visit tomford.com. Palladium-plated<br />

earring, J.W.ANDERSON, $1,650<br />

(for pair). Leather backpack, $450,<br />

clutch, $275, both, KARA. White gold<br />

and diamond rings, both, DELFINA<br />

DELETTREZ. Silver and diamond ring,<br />

DAVID YURMAN, $1,200.<br />

Beauty Secret: CLINIQUE Broad<br />

Spectrum SPF 30 Sunscreen Body<br />

Cream offers insurance for a big reveal.<br />

280


Techno jersey jacket, $795,<br />

sunglasses, $395, both, MAX<br />

MARA, at Max Mara, NYC. Velour<br />

shorts, ROXANA SALEHOUN, $187<br />

(sold as set). Neoprene brief bikini<br />

bottom, CALI DREAMING, $110.<br />

Gold vermeil earring, MODERN<br />

WEAVING, $155. Iridescent<br />

backpack, KARA, $495. Silver rings,<br />

both, MIANSAI, $125 each. For<br />

details, see Shopping Guide.<br />

281


Embroidered-chiffon dress, MONSE,<br />

$6,490, collection at Bergdorf Goodman,<br />

NYC. Silver-plated hoop earring,<br />

ANNELISE MICHELSON, $398 (for pair).<br />

Silver cuff, ALYSSA NORTON, $225. Silver<br />

rings, both, MIANSAI, $90–$125 each.<br />

White gold and diamond ring, CARTIER,<br />

$5,600. Leather clutch, KARA, $275. Vinyl<br />

sandals, ALEXANDER WANG.<br />

282


Patent leather jacket, $2,875, leather<br />

belt, $430, handbag, $1,480, ciré<br />

cap (held with bag), $800, all, MIU<br />

MIU, visit miumiu.com. Nylon<br />

bikini top, bottom, both, JADE<br />

SWIM, $80 each. Metal earrings,<br />

PROENZA SCHOULER, $695.<br />

Painted-brass bracelets, both,<br />

ALYSSA NORTON, $225–$250 each.<br />

Silver ring, EDDIE BORGO, $160.<br />

Silver ring, MIANSAI, $90. Silver<br />

ring, CLOSER BY WWAKE, $176.<br />

For details, see Shopping Guide.<br />

Hair by Charles McNair at Jed Root<br />

for Oribe Hair Care; makeup by Fiona<br />

Stiles at Starworks Artists for Fiona<br />

Stiles Beauty; manicure by Geraldine<br />

Holford at LMC Worldwide for Chanel;<br />

casting by Sisi Chonco at Zan Casting;<br />

model: Lameka Fox at IMG; produced<br />

by Brandon Zagha; fashion assistants:<br />

Daniel Gaines and Elizabeth Carvalho<br />

283


MAXIMUM<br />

EXPOSURE<br />

On the heels of a contemporary art revolution in China, Max Mara<br />

brings classic Italian tailoring to an avid Shanghai following.<br />

Molly Langmuir hits the city’s experimental, cash-infused gallery<br />

scene and discovers four boundary-breaking new talents.<br />

Photographed by Jason Schmidt Styled by Morly Guo<br />

When I arrived in Shanghai one night<br />

last December, the city was glitteringly<br />

bright and bracingly cold. In one of the<br />

world’s most sophisticated urban centers,<br />

an international technology hub with a<br />

fluorescent-lit skyline, many buildings still<br />

don’t have central heating—just one of the<br />

place’s unlikely juxtapositions. Another is<br />

that despite the government’s history of censorship,<br />

over the last few years an art scene<br />

has developed in Shanghai that’s so dynamic<br />

and fresh the city has, practically overnight,<br />

become a global cultural destination.<br />

“It’s an underground art and music explosion!”<br />

says Max Mara Creative Director<br />

Ian Griffiths the next morning, sitting in a<br />

(frigid) barren room off the cavernous great<br />

hall of the Shanghai Exhibition Center,<br />

where the brand was preparing to reveal its<br />

prefall 2017 collection, titled “Monopolis!”<br />

“Everywhere you go here, people are talking<br />

about art or making art or showing art.” Not<br />

only was Max Mara staging its first show in<br />

China, it had tapped Beijing-based multidisciplinary<br />

artist Liu Wei—whose sculptures,<br />

paintings, videos, and photographs explore<br />

what it means to live in a rapidly shifting<br />

urban environment—to collaborate on an<br />

11-piece capsule collection. Liu also designed<br />

the set, which, by the following evening,<br />

had transformed the hall into a runway<br />

with mirrored columns, planetlike globes,<br />

and wire sculptures that towered over the<br />

models and evoked, like much of the artist’s<br />

work, an environment both slightly dystopian<br />

and sleekly futuristic.<br />

Griffiths joined Max Mara in 1987, right<br />

after graduating from London’s Royal College<br />

of Art, and rose through the ranks until<br />

he was named creative director in 2013.<br />

Roughly two years later, he began to speak<br />

to the press on behalf of the brand—an<br />

unprecedented move for the 66-year-old<br />

family-run Italian business, which (despite<br />

having hired, from the ’70s on, luminaries<br />

such as Karl Lagerfeld and the duos behind<br />

Dolce & Gabbana and Proenza Schouler<br />

to work in its atelier) had never put<br />

a designer front and center. “Over the<br />

years, Ian just absorbed the DNA of<br />

the brand,” says Giorgio Guidotti, the<br />

company’s long-standing president of<br />

worldwide communications and public<br />

relations. As for what that DNA entails,<br />

Max Mara remains “geared toward a<br />

woman who wants to put her personality<br />

forward, and also wants beautiful<br />

clothes that last over time,” Guidotti<br />

says. Both he and Griffiths stress that,<br />

in an ever more globalized world, this<br />

woman exists anywhere from America<br />

to China, where the group (which<br />

includes Sportmax and Max&Co.)<br />

opened its first store on the mainland in<br />

1993 and now has 414 shops across the<br />

country. Despite Asia’s recent economic<br />

slowdown, Max Mara’s Chinese market<br />

remains roughly the same size as that of<br />

Europe or the U.S.<br />

Alongside his work at Max Mara,<br />

Griffiths also teaches fashion design at<br />

London’s Kingston University. His fluency<br />

in everything from fine art to indie<br />

rock plays out in “Monopolis!,” which<br />

was inspired by ’80s neo-noir film Blade<br />

Runner, the Chinese electro-pop band<br />

Nova Heart, and the general creative<br />

ferment of Shanghai. The designer likens<br />

the city’s “great love of fashion and<br />

great love of art” to that of ’70s New<br />

York and London.<br />

The fascination with art, at least, is<br />

fairly recent. Contemporary art only<br />

really began to be produced in China<br />

in the ’80s, after the Cultural Revolution,<br />

and even through the ’90s,<br />

“there was an assumption that young


VIVIAN XU<br />

For her work, the bio-artist has grown<br />

silkworms and even strains of bacteria.<br />

“We humans experience everything with<br />

a centric view,” she says. “But that’s only<br />

one slice of what life is.” With a series of<br />

images produced for her project<br />

Living Devices (2012–13).<br />

Wool coat, MAX MARA, $5,890.


FUNA YE<br />

Funa once recorded teens discussing a perfect<br />

world, then superimposed burgers and other<br />

food floating around their heads. “It looks<br />

like a colorful, crazy video, but it’s actually<br />

a documentary,” she says. With wallpaper<br />

produced for her installation Diamond Nail Salon<br />

(2015). Wool crepe skirt, MAX MARA, $535.<br />

OPHELIA S. CHAN<br />

In some of Chan’s multimedia<br />

installations and videos, people<br />

talk about themselves as fictional<br />

characters: “It’s about performance<br />

in daily life.” With a still from a video<br />

titled Dream Lense (2015). Silk printed<br />

dress, MAX MARA, $1,150.<br />

artists had to look to the West for subject<br />

matter,” says Alexandra Munroe, the Guggenheim<br />

Museum’s NYC-based senior<br />

curator of Asian art. “Now there’s a sense<br />

that they don’t need the West anymore,<br />

whether as an imprimatur or a market.” In<br />

2012, the Shanghai Biennale, a sleepy exhibition<br />

when it debuted in 1996, moved to<br />

the city’s newly opened Power Station of<br />

Art, one of the largest contemporary art<br />

museums in the world; the most recent edition,<br />

which opened last November, drew<br />

crowds even on weekdays. And the K11 Art<br />

Mall—a retail/gallery hybrid in which art is<br />

displayed amid high-end boutiques—was<br />

launched in 2013 by then 33-year-old Adrian<br />

Cheng, heir apparent to a wildly successful<br />

family-run business (its interests span<br />

property to jewelry) and one of the world’s<br />

youngest billionaires. It’s just one of the<br />

city’s art-focused institutions funded by<br />

China’s relatively new class of ultrarich.<br />

(Since 2000, the number of millionaires in<br />

China has grown by a factor of 25, and the<br />

country now has more billionaires than the<br />

U.S.) Jacob Dreyer, an American journalist<br />

who writes frequently about art, arrived<br />

in Shanghai in 2008, back when “basically<br />

it was as important to the global art<br />

world as, say, Quito, Ecuador, is today,” he<br />

says. “And now, well, now is now. Art has<br />

gone from being an elite discourse for the<br />

super-rich to a mass phenomenon—from<br />

avant-garde to TV.”<br />

Dreyer spent an afternoon taking me to<br />

a few of the galleries that have popped up<br />

in the city. Our first stop, Capsule Gallery,<br />

opened last October with a show featuring<br />

eight artists—seven were based in Europe<br />

and the U.S. rather than China. According<br />

to Italian owner Enrico Polato, most<br />

had found the experience so inspiring (and<br />

fruitful—sales were strong) they’d already<br />

applied for residencies to return. At Bank,<br />

a subterranean space in the midst of an installation,<br />

American expat owner Mathieu<br />

Borysevicz suggested that the mobile app<br />

WeChat—imagine Instagram, PayPal, eBay,<br />

Facebook, and Skype in one—had advanced<br />

the burgeoning scene. “We use it for payments,<br />

for sending images, for arranging art<br />

dinners,” he said. “It’s drawn a web around<br />

the community.”<br />

This digital savvy is also reflected in the<br />

work itself: “Chinese artists are embracing<br />

new media in a very impactful way,” says<br />

Xin Li, the deputy chairman of Christie’s<br />

Asia, referring to a wave of art employing<br />

computer graphics, robotics, 3-D printing,<br />

and bioengineering. Or, as Max Mara’s Grif-<br />

286


Styled by Morly Guo (hair by Yang Changxiu; makeup by Yooyo Ko at Andy Creation;<br />

casting by Samantha Culp; artists: Wang Xin, Ophelia S. Chan, Vivian Xu, and Funa Ye;<br />

produced by Lucas Lechevalier and Baba Liu at 5e Productions)<br />

WANG XIN<br />

Wang recently produced two pink-lit installations<br />

that poked fun at art-world careerism. Welcome<br />

to the Art World (2016), for example, featured a<br />

human-size hamster wheel with instructions like “Build<br />

Relationships” and “Create a Mailing List.” With part<br />

of her installation Every Artist Should Have a Solo<br />

Show (2016). Cashmere knit top, MAX MARA, $765.<br />

fiths puts it, “Chinese artists are giving us a<br />

kind of total review of what can be considered<br />

art and how you can make it.” Some say<br />

this is particularly true of the country’s female<br />

artists. “Many of the most exciting studios<br />

of digital artists I’ve gone to have been<br />

women’s,” says David Maupin, cofounder of<br />

New York–based Lehmann Maupin gallery,<br />

which represents Liu Wei.<br />

As for the gender divide in China, “it’s not<br />

as strong as in the West, because socialism<br />

always promoted women as equals to men,”<br />

says Zhang Ga, artistic director of Shanghai’s<br />

Chronus Art Center. (“Women hold<br />

up half the sky” is an oft-quoted Maoism.)<br />

Yet into the ’80s, female artists were a rarity.<br />

“It’s not that they got forgotten; they just<br />

didn’t exist,” Munroe says. Today, female<br />

artists continue to face barriers. Gallerist<br />

Leo Xu, who frequently shows new media<br />

work, says clients inquiring about female<br />

artists often ask, “ ‘Does she have a husband?<br />

Does she have a kid?’ If she doesn’t,<br />

they want to wait until she does to see how<br />

far she can go.” (They’re not as scrutinizing<br />

when purchasing the work of foreign female<br />

artists, he adds.) Yet Xu, too, notes the success<br />

women are having with new media.<br />

“There’s less hierarchy there,” he says. “It<br />

gives women an advantage.”<br />

It’s one that’s being exploited by the four<br />

groundbreaking female artists in these pages.<br />

Ophelia S. Chan recently produced a<br />

multimedia installation focused on stills of<br />

’70s amputee porn star Long Jeanne Silver,<br />

“a symbol of female power and of reclaiming<br />

power,” she says. And Vivian Xu, a bioartist<br />

whose work explores, she’s written,<br />

distinctions between “the organic from the<br />

artificial, the living from the dead,” is in the<br />

process of building a suit that would enable<br />

its wearer to pick up electrical currents.<br />

“Censorship hasn’t affected me much,”<br />

she says, partly because if work isn’t overtly<br />

political, the government tends to look<br />

the other way, but also because she’s based<br />

in Shanghai—and “if there’s a crackdown,<br />

Beijing gets hit first.” Funa Ye, who has an<br />

interest in “ordinary people’s aesthetic,” has<br />

become known for her work based on nail<br />

art; for one recent installation, Nailhenge,<br />

she produced 10 monumental nails covered<br />

in pastel swirls and rainbows, elevating a<br />

personal (often female) form of creativity<br />

into the realm of high art. And finally,<br />

there’s Wang Xin, a certificated hypnotist<br />

who puts people into trances to help them<br />

explore their subconscious. “Society hypnotizes<br />

people every day, through advertisements<br />

and stuff like that,” she says. “Really,<br />

I’m trying to wake people up.”<br />

Those women are all in the early stages<br />

of their success. But Liu, 45, is a perfect illustration<br />

of the reach of Chinese art. Max<br />

Mara’s Griffiths originally encountered<br />

Liu’s work at Paris’s Centre Pompidou,<br />

where, in 2010, he installed ever-so-slightlyskewed<br />

architectural models of famous<br />

centers of power—the Pentagon, the Colosseum—constructed<br />

from dog chews.<br />

Liu brought his appreciation for imperfection<br />

to Max Mara, a brand defined by its<br />

tasteful, precise tailoring. When Griffiths<br />

shared fabric samples with him, the artist<br />

routinely turned them over and declared he<br />

preferred the reverse. The resulting pieces,<br />

produced in Max Mara’s signature palette<br />

of camel, black, and white (and made available,<br />

in a first for the brand, online and in<br />

some stores directly after the show), retain<br />

classic shapes—there’s an elegant woolblend<br />

wrap coat; a slim jacquard pencil<br />

skirt—but, through trompe l’oeil prints and<br />

fabrics chain-stitched to evoke topographic<br />

maps, incorporate a subtle rawness.<br />

Griffiths, in turn, incorporated certain<br />

rough elements into the rest of his prefall<br />

collection. Among the pussy-bow blouses,<br />

ruched-tulle pencil skirts, and trademark<br />

coats, there was also the odd ripped-looking<br />

sweater and a white maxidress covered in<br />

raw-edged black strips with visible white<br />

stitching. “It gives the clothes a new kind of<br />

modernity, which is exactly right for the time<br />

in which we find ourselves,” Griffiths says.<br />

Right now, he adds, whether in Shanghai,<br />

New York, or Rome, “People are looking for<br />

products that have meaning, that feel secure.<br />

In that sense, it’s a very Max Mara moment.”<br />

287


THE ONE AND DONE<br />

Continued from page 166<br />

never looked this feminine. It’s the eyes.<br />

They’re more open. And your eyebrows are<br />

higher—and arched.”<br />

She asks whom I’ve seen, heard from, but it’s<br />

whom I haven’t seen or heard from that hurts.<br />

They number both family and friends.<br />

Renata distills it: “When one of us goes for<br />

it, it gives anxiety to the others, no matter the<br />

outcome. If it looks good, we’re torn between<br />

elation that we too can take the plunge, and resentment<br />

that the voices pushing us to do it just<br />

got louder: Look, Holly did it. Or if it looks bad,<br />

now we’re totally panicked because we can’t get<br />

off the assembly line of aging, and we have to<br />

stick with our bags and sags. So chances are, no<br />

one is really happy to see your facelift because<br />

it triggers too many selfish emotions. But I’m<br />

happy for you, truly.”<br />

And she truly is. Renata picks up her iPhone<br />

and finds two pictures she snapped on the sly.<br />

One was of me at the pre-op dinner, the other<br />

taken earlier tonight, when I thought she was<br />

sending a text. The first photo is unkind; my<br />

mouth is awkwardly open, my forehead pushed<br />

up into Shar-Pei creases, my facial wrinkles<br />

amplified by the overhead lighting. The second<br />

is a bad angle, but even so, you can see the wave<br />

of Rosenberg’s wand. I look like me—photoshopped.<br />

Renata says, “You’re a lucky girl.”<br />

THE OFT-ASKED QUESTION: “Does it hurt?”<br />

On a pain scale of 1 to 10, I register whiny. I keep<br />

a recovery journal, most of which will read like<br />

a litany of bratty, spoiled, high-end complaints:<br />

Must sleep on doughnut-hole pillow as ears ache<br />

inside and outside…scalp numb yet still weirdly<br />

itchy…neck feels like it’s in a choke hold, major<br />

bruising…hurts to open mouth and floss teeth…<br />

mood swinging way up, way down…cheeks, neck<br />

numb…great day, UPS guy called me “miss”…<br />

can feel Endotines beneath my scalp like budding<br />

horns…totally anxious…brushing hair feels<br />

like brushing doll’s head…sparks flying through<br />

face as nerves reconnect…lumps under jaw…ears<br />

sticking out, HUGE…what’s this line still doing<br />

around my mouth?…me so pretty…earlobes hot,<br />

swollen…hurts neck to talk too much…forehead<br />

falling down?…stretching neck back out talking<br />

too much?…eyes uneven?…did he do enough???…<br />

Of course, it would not be a Beauty Adventure<br />

if there weren’t complications. I was the<br />

one in 50 who got bruising. And two weeks in,<br />

I wake up to a bald spot the size of a quarter<br />

right near the front of my hairline. The vanity<br />

gods are punishing me! Panicked, I call Rosenberg’s<br />

office. He’s in surgery, his patient coordinator,<br />

Janie Indursky, says. “But come in;<br />

Dr. Paul’s here.”<br />

That would be Dr. Benjamin Paul, Rosenberg’s<br />

very tall, dark colleague, professorially<br />

handsome and spectacled in rectangular<br />

frames. Married. One child. I had to ask. He<br />

saw me last week when I had my stitches and<br />

staples removed, and again when I was convinced<br />

I’d gone forever cockeyed. (Diagnosis:<br />

uneven swelling. Absolutely normal.)<br />

Paul enters the examining room, smiling,<br />

“Who are you?” (That’s a joke—an “I’m so pretty<br />

now he doesn’t recognize me” joke.) I tell him<br />

we have to stop meeting like this and point to<br />

the bald patch.<br />

“I see that,” he says, confirming I’m not crazy.<br />

“There’s nothing long-term to be worried<br />

about. It’s root shock. It happens. It could be<br />

the anesthesia alone—you could go in for bariatric<br />

surgery and, just from the anesthesia,<br />

get these little patches. And honestly, if you<br />

operate on the scalp, sometimes the neighboring<br />

hair follicles feel stress from the event and<br />

they can shed.<br />

“It can take anywhere from six weeks to three<br />

months before it starts to regrow. So I wouldn’t<br />

expect next week it’s going to be growing. Seriously,<br />

it’s temporary.<br />

“One thing you can do is change your part<br />

one millimeter over,” Paul says. “Just take a few<br />

hairs from this side and pull them over it.” Like<br />

a comb-over?<br />

“That’s what I would do. Take a few of these<br />

hairs.…” He re-parts my hair. “And it’s gone!”<br />

And yet, still there!<br />

Paul crosses his arms and furrows his brow:<br />

“Are you a worrier?”<br />

No! I’m a woman with a bald spot in the front<br />

of my head! Poor Dr. Paul.<br />

“You’re going to be absolutely fine. In a<br />

month or two, you’ll have forgotten this was<br />

even a thing. The eyes are looking better, by the<br />

way. The swelling is down 50 percent.”<br />

He checks my head for “spit stitches,” the<br />

dissolvable ones that sometimes work their way<br />

out to the surface. They feel like little bristles.<br />

He takes a pair of medical tweezers and plucks:<br />

Ouch! Ouch! Ouch!<br />

Rosenberg pops his head in the door. “I just<br />

finished up, and I heard you were here,” he says.<br />

“You look great!” I tell him I’m embarrassed to<br />

admit that I wish he’d hiked my forehead up a<br />

teensy bit more, say, an extra 5 percent.<br />

“In plastic surgery, one centimeter is a lot,”<br />

Rosenberg says. “So you have to balance beauty<br />

with risk. Yes, there’s a subtle hooding that<br />

persists over your eyes. I like to keep that. It’s<br />

perfectly imperfect. Trying to get rid of everything<br />

becomes evident to the layperson.<br />

Whereas this.…” No one will even suspect. Unless<br />

you tell everyone.<br />

The late, great Nora Ephron, who felt bad<br />

about her neck, once told me: “Tell one, tell a<br />

thousand.”<br />

Every time I see my doorman, he circles<br />

his face with an index finger and gives me the<br />

thumbs-up. Neighbors knock on my door under<br />

the auspices of borrowing something, or to<br />

ask if my cable’s working, or to invite me over<br />

or themselves in for a glass of wine, which inevitably<br />

leads to a play-by-play and an iPhone<br />

slide show. Doris, a beautiful older woman, an<br />

actress who makes her living as an extra, stops<br />

me in the lobby: “Your facelift is great. Now,<br />

don’t sit in your apartment. Get out there! Don’t<br />

waste it.”<br />

I swing by Renata’s New Year’s party, and the<br />

heads in the room swivel in unison. A woman<br />

I’ve met once, whose name I can’t recall, tells<br />

me I look fantastic. I smile, fishing for how<br />

much she knows. Renata showed you the pictures,<br />

right? “Yes!”<br />

Excuse me, but I have to go strangle her. I find<br />

Renata in the kitchen and let her have it. “But<br />

you’re writing about it!” she says, apologizing,<br />

deleting the photos on her iPhone. “You have to<br />

decide whether you’re a private person or a<br />

memoirist. And after everything you’ve written<br />

over the years, I think you know the answer.”<br />

She’s right, but she’s still wrong.<br />

Meanwhile, Virginia, one of my oldest, best<br />

friends, is MIA. Aside from one text—“How’s<br />

the face?”—we haven’t seen each other since<br />

our dinner at Freds. Her absence is more painful<br />

to me than the surgery.<br />

By the end of March, three months out, all<br />

the feeling has returned to my scalp, and baby<br />

hairs are sprouting through my bald spot. My<br />

ears are still a little sore; my neck still feels<br />

stiff and tight and numb-ish. Rosenberg says<br />

it’ll take six months before the final results are<br />

in. (I promise an update.) But honestly, I don’t<br />

think about any of it that much. This face has<br />

become my new norm. I no longer look in the<br />

mirror wondering, wishing, wanting, waiting…<br />

no more waiting.<br />

I meet Germaine for a drink at City Hops, the<br />

craft-beer pub in our neighborhood where Joel,<br />

a handsome hipster bartender with a man-bun,<br />

gives us a round of pints, chats us up, and asks<br />

if we’re sisters. Huge compliment, as Gem is<br />

beautiful. (We look nothing alike.) And funny,<br />

as we’ve been here a dozen times pre-op. Joel<br />

just doesn’t recognize it’s me.<br />

Our friend Joanna breezes in, and the place<br />

starts filling up. Am I imagining this, or are we<br />

Alexandre Weinberger/Trunk Archive<br />

288


From left: Take Five/Hulu; Skye Parrott<br />

getting lots of attention? I mean, even me.<br />

“I’ll tell you what it is,” Jo says, leaning in.<br />

“Before, you felt better than you looked, and<br />

now, you look better than you feel.”<br />

Oh, I don’t know. I feel pretty great—more<br />

lighthearted, more open, more brave. Yes, subtly<br />

and majorly—and still transforming.<br />

THE PROPHET<br />

Continued from page 231<br />

degree, shared with other commonwealth nations,<br />

whose double remove from the British<br />

aristocracy, by class and geography, created a<br />

sniffy social MO to put people in their place.<br />

Since shame and a rebellion from shame are<br />

inherent to the human condition, Munro’s<br />

and Atwood’s familiarity with these psychic<br />

twins gives them an excellent vantage point<br />

to connect with a vast readership.<br />

Munro, though, never changed course; she<br />

just honed her subject and her form to an otherworldly<br />

perfection. Munro’s talent is the<br />

talent of magic, like the Rocky Mountains, or<br />

some other sublime natural wonder. Atwood<br />

is not sublime—even her magical confidence<br />

is made explicable by loving and accepting<br />

parents. (The only time Atwood is without<br />

a decisive comment or new addition to push<br />

our conversation forward is when her mother<br />

comes up. “She died at 97,” she says, then<br />

pauses for a long stretch before adding, in a<br />

tone inflected with the unresolved, “Anyway,<br />

back to the present.”) But in remaining open<br />

to the contemporary rather than holing up<br />

with her muse, Atwood has produced work<br />

that is true to her public role, and her public<br />

role is true to her work—an achievement perhaps<br />

equal to magic. Atwood has what people<br />

used to want, gravitas and depth, but has also<br />

grabbed the new golden ring on life’s wacked<br />

carousel: She’s an image-based influencer.<br />

“When she came to visit the set for the<br />

first time,” Bruce Miller says, “everyone got<br />

into their costumes, and all the actors who<br />

played handmaids lined up in rows and, as<br />

she walked through, bowed their heads.”<br />

BRITTANY FEIWELL<br />

Continued from page 234<br />

sure everyone has enough.”<br />

It takes more than an hour of talking with<br />

her before we get to the thing that I couldn’t<br />

figure out: How is it that a moderate, the Jewish<br />

daughter of a father who emigrated from<br />

Spain, and a woman who grew up in culturally<br />

diverse Miami, voted for Donald Trump?<br />

How is it that she supports the travel ban,<br />

versions 1.0 and 2.0? She tells me it’s because<br />

she lived in New York City and worked near<br />

the World Trade Center, and September 11,<br />

2001, was her last day of work before she was<br />

to move to L.A. She slept in a bit that morning,<br />

and that’s why she wasn’t at her office<br />

on Wall Street when the planes hit. When she<br />

woke, she could see the smoking Twin Towers<br />

out her bedroom window, and all these<br />

years later during anniversary remembrances,<br />

she can still smell that terrible acrid smell.<br />

When Trump talked about Islamic terrorism,<br />

it resonated with her; it didn’t seem unreasonable<br />

to have a 90-day restriction on a few<br />

countries, she says, while the government<br />

checks people out. “My understanding is that<br />

it’s temporary—as a way to reset.”<br />

She gets her news online, mostly from<br />

social media, but she also watches the Today<br />

show and The View religiously, as well<br />

as Meet the Press. She didn’t know about the<br />

fascists supporting Trump or the alt-right<br />

conference in late November in DC where<br />

people sieg-heiled. Her right-wing Facebook<br />

feeds, of course, hadn’t mentioned them; the<br />

soft-focus TV shows don’t talk about those<br />

kinds of things, either; and her liberal friends<br />

have gotten so enraged that when they started<br />

screaming about Nazis, Feiwell thought<br />

it was hyperbole. “I’m Jewish, and I’m the<br />

daughter of an immigrant, and I’m a woman—and<br />

I wish people could get themselves<br />

away from that polarizing view,” she says.<br />

We’re talking in March, after several weeks<br />

in which scores of Jewish cemeteries across<br />

the country had been vandalized, and Jewish<br />

community centers and synagogues were receiving<br />

bomb threats. Feiwell tells me, “If we<br />

had talked last week, I would have been like,<br />

‘I’m supernervous.’ People really wanted him<br />

to speak out against hate. Locally, we’ve had<br />

three bomb threats on our [Jewish community<br />

center] in the last two weeks, and I have<br />

friends who work closely with the JCC, and<br />

we went to temple this morning—so I was<br />

like, I feel really sick about this. There was a<br />

lot of social media asking, ‘Why won’t he just<br />

come out against hate?’ ” He did. Eventually.<br />

Feiwell accepted Trump’s lateness in commenting<br />

on the acts: “My husband sent me<br />

two articles: [Trump] came out against hate<br />

in the election; he came out against hate [this<br />

time]. He can’t tackle every issue at exactly<br />

the moment that everybody wants him to.”<br />

She’s preoccupied with the rage she sees on<br />

the left and how impossible it’s becoming for<br />

her to reason with people, because she isn’t<br />

actually a white nationalist or a gun nut and<br />

doesn’t see herself as really anything but a<br />

moderate who is frequently reminded of the<br />

most terrifying day of her life and votes according<br />

to her deeply held fears for the safety<br />

of her family. Yes, she was cool with the travel<br />

bans; what made her unhappy was the way<br />

they were rolled out. “I think that these types<br />

of policies to protect our country and Americans<br />

need to be moderate, like I consider myself<br />

to be. So when we talk about the Muslim<br />

ban, the way it came out and the way they executed<br />

it is not moderate. But I agree with the<br />

principle of it.… But then President Trump is<br />

so crass and says things exactly as they are in<br />

his mind, and in a way, that isolates—so I was<br />

off-put by that.”<br />

She’d be more inclined to engage with the<br />

liberals screaming for impeachment if they’d<br />

stop screaming and start talking. When I say<br />

that I want Trump impeached—not just because<br />

I disagree with nearly all of his policies<br />

(and, so far, all of his appointments and all of<br />

his executive orders) but because it’s the only<br />

way that we’ll get the information we need<br />

on his taxes and foreign entanglements (impeachment<br />

would mean months of discovery<br />

and documents that Congress would make<br />

available to the public) and because I do not<br />

believe he can govern under the weight of<br />

suspicion that his campaign possibly colluded<br />

with Russia—it makes sense to her. “That’s<br />

not at all what you hear, though,” Feiwell says.<br />

“You just hear people calling you hateful, and<br />

it’s hard to engage with that.”<br />

She cast a single vote in a system of millions<br />

of voters: Why, she wants to know, is she reduced,<br />

through willful misunderstanding by<br />

half the country, to a single decision in her life,<br />

given all the rest of who she is? “I want people<br />

to understand,” she says, “that some people<br />

who voted for Trump really gave consideration<br />

and thought and care to it.”<br />

289


KIMBERLEY EUSTON<br />

Continued from page 237<br />

Care Act. “He’s really trying to move quickly<br />

on some of the promises he made,” she says,<br />

but also says that the conventional wisdom on<br />

her side of the aisle is that once the right people<br />

are in key positions, everything will calm<br />

down a bit. She’s cautiously pleased so far:<br />

“The stock market has hit record highs since<br />

he’s taken office; we’ll actually end up raising<br />

interest rates because of the job growth<br />

and strong economy, and we’re seeing more<br />

limited, reduced regulations, which I think is<br />

helping stimulate business.” February’s positive<br />

jobs report—unemployment dipped to<br />

4.7 percent—must have made her happy. Still,<br />

she says, “I wish he would tweet less.” The<br />

weekend of the women’s marches, she was<br />

surprised at how many of her friends joined<br />

the protests in both DC and Atlanta. (She and<br />

they are navigating their differences, she says,<br />

“by not talking about it.”) She wonders why all<br />

the hair-on-fire stuff is happening now instead<br />

of before, when it might have made the difference<br />

for the Democrats. She wouldn’t have<br />

voted for Bernie, but “I mean, I just feel for the<br />

Bernie supporters, because Hillary really stole<br />

the nomination, with what was going on with<br />

the DNC. Bernie wasn’t given a fair shake. I<br />

wish more people would’ve been energized<br />

during the election because I think it would’ve<br />

turned out differently. I don’t think Trump<br />

would have necessarily—I don’t think Trump<br />

would have even received the Republican Party’s<br />

nomination.”<br />

That the GOP’s brand is starting to become<br />

associated with neo-Nazis and white supremacists<br />

Euston finds “extremely troubling. That<br />

isn’t anything I approve of at all.” She adds,<br />

“I’m hoping he’ll stop with the over-the-top<br />

rhetoric” but also knows it’s that very rhetoric<br />

that got Trump elected.<br />

The media landscape disturbs her, too. She<br />

misses the era when there were just three<br />

major networks doing the evening news, and<br />

“when print did journalism”—she’s referring<br />

to those halcyon days when the news wasn’t<br />

so full of alternative facts and bloggy opinions.<br />

We discuss that as recently as the early<br />

1990s, everyone basically consumed the same<br />

presentations of the same events. These days,<br />

it can be hard to parse reality from rumor—<br />

which is how you get a high-information voter<br />

like Euston who once had a security clearance<br />

and doesn’t think Hillary Clinton is running<br />

secret sex cults in DC pizzerias; but neither is<br />

she willing to discount the conspiracy that Bill<br />

Clinton’s deputy White House counsel, Vincent<br />

Foster, may not have committed suicide.<br />

Still, it worries her that the country is becoming<br />

so divided and that good information<br />

is getting lost in the thicket. Yes, the Washington<br />

Post and the New York Times do real reporting—if<br />

you can afford the paywall. (You<br />

know what’s free? Breitbart.) We joke about<br />

how bad things are when civilians are trying<br />

to dissect raw intel just to figure out what’s<br />

happening in America.<br />

“When my boys were three,” Euston says,<br />

“a former colleague from Washington said<br />

that the biggest fear I should have for them<br />

growing older—if they don’t have to fight a<br />

war on foreign soil—is a war in America…the<br />

haves versus the have-nots. I was speaking to<br />

this individual recently, and I said, ‘Remember<br />

when you said this to me, like, 13 years<br />

ago?’ That’s worrisome.”<br />

KRISTIE DAVIS<br />

Continued from page 237<br />

over the plain and the whole world seems to<br />

be made new just so you can see it. It’s a good,<br />

and hard, life. “I wouldn’t trade this for the<br />

world. Maybe if you gave me a billion dollars,<br />

but I’d have to think about it,” Potter says.<br />

If you’re not a rancher or farmer, your best<br />

hope for a job here is at the Safeway grocery<br />

store in Burns, or the state and federal government<br />

jobs…at places like Malheur. Burns<br />

is way more red than blue—by roughly twoto-one<br />

margins, the town went for McCain<br />

and Romney, and by almost three to one for<br />

Trump—but the standoff at Malheur in the<br />

first months of 2016 turned up the antigovernment,<br />

anti-Washington, anti-Hillary (as<br />

a creature of government and Washington)<br />

rhetoric. It also changed Davis’s news consumption.<br />

Her hometown was featured in a<br />

story that dominated network newscasts for<br />

weeks—and “nothing anyone was saying was<br />

right,” she says. “They didn’t tell people what<br />

was actually happening.” For example, the<br />

Bundy protest was cast as the armed takeover<br />

of federal buildings by menacing militiamen,<br />

when the way Davis saw it was a handful of<br />

guys overrunning a few bunkhouses and a<br />

tiny museum and visitor center out in the<br />

middle of nowhere. She never saw the occupiers<br />

being violent, only talking about the<br />

need to defend and preserve liberty: Gun toting<br />

isn’t a big deal to a rural rancher. She says<br />

she saw the sausage of narrative and clickbait<br />

being made, and “it really amazed me how<br />

so many people went out of their way to tell<br />

us they hated us without even understanding<br />

what the issue was.” For her, the issues were<br />

about water rights and resources, about grazing<br />

rights, about what she views as her neighbors<br />

serving time twice for the same crime.<br />

(A federal appellate court actually ordered a<br />

retrial, insisting that the lower court had undersentenced<br />

the Hammonds.)<br />

The right wing had been preaching that<br />

Barack Obama made sweeping public-land<br />

grabs—he did set aside more acreage for federal<br />

protection than any other president in<br />

history. And if there’s one thing you can do to<br />

annoy a rancher, it’s tell her she can’t graze<br />

her cattle on lands where they’ve grazed for<br />

decades. Adding to the animus, Oregon has a<br />

history of racism; when it was granted statehood<br />

in 1859, it was the only state in the union<br />

to forbid black people from living, working,<br />

or owning property there. It was illegal for<br />

black people even to move to the state until<br />

1926. The legacy of this resonates even today.<br />

Davis and Potter haven’t entirely escaped<br />

their surroundings or the cultural lessons<br />

they’ve learned. I was uncomfortable more<br />

than once during our time spent together<br />

when the topic of Native American sovereignty<br />

came up; we agree that the problem is<br />

largely unsolvable now, having been created<br />

by generations well before us. But it’s indisfew<br />

weeks, when they have to get done a volume<br />

of work, like mint weeding, they hire day<br />

laborers to help out. (Whether they’ve hired<br />

undocumented workers, Davis doesn’t know,<br />

though it’s pretty unusual in the West not to<br />

have hired them. That’s who shows up to do<br />

the work.) The Davises keep a comfortable<br />

five-bedroom house and a few head of cattle.<br />

The schedule and work are brutal, but it’s<br />

hard to be in too bad of a mood, no matter<br />

how sore your back is, when the sun is rising<br />

Skye Parrott<br />

290


Bottom right: Terry Tsiolis<br />

putable that if you’re white and you live in the<br />

Mountain West, you’re living on Native land.<br />

Over dinner one night, Davis uses the individual<br />

responsibility argument when asked about<br />

educational and health disparities between<br />

Native and non-Native populations. I reply<br />

that we should honor our treaties and not hold<br />

Native Americans at gunpoint for protesting<br />

a pipeline that will run through their burial<br />

grounds. At least we’re having a conversation.<br />

She thinks the media is a conglomerate,<br />

more about making money than about reporting<br />

facts, and she no longer trusts it. She reads<br />

whatever stories her friends post on Facebook,<br />

which are by and large right-leaning. But interestingly,<br />

Davis still watches the local news,<br />

broadcast out of Portland, and after she saw a<br />

TV news story about a Muslim child who was<br />

blocked from coming to Oregon for medical<br />

treatment, she thought the travel ban was<br />

unkind. “They stopped that little girl from<br />

coming here for heart surgery,” Davis says,<br />

disgusted. “And how’s a baby supposed to be a<br />

problem?” She thinks the Mexico border wall<br />

is a dumb idea: “I don’t believe in building<br />

the wall; I believe in taking away the free ride<br />

when they get over here. I mean, I know a lot of<br />

great Mexicans that aren’t legal, but they still<br />

pay taxes and work; they don’t live off our free<br />

welfare system. And I think Trump’s taking<br />

that a little bit too far.”<br />

What attracted Davis to his candidacy—<br />

she and her mom were on board early, having<br />

voted for him in the primaries—is that he’s<br />

“an international business guy” who “says<br />

whatever he thinks,” she says. They liked<br />

that he rarely plays respectable politics with<br />

his phrasing. Politics as usual hasn’t really<br />

helped us as a nation in recent years, and<br />

“maybe Congress will get off their asses and<br />

do something” if forced to by Trump’s drainthe-swamp<br />

mentality. Because he was inexperienced,<br />

she knew there was a risk in voting<br />

for him. As of March, she was annoyed that<br />

his transition and first weeks in office hadn’t<br />

gone more smoothly. But she still considers<br />

him worth the gamble—because her other<br />

option was more of the same, and that wasn’t<br />

helping anyone she knew. Donald Trump<br />

“could be really good,” she says.<br />

For her part, Potter says she hopes “people<br />

give him a chance, because he’s the president<br />

now, whether they like it or not.” Davis is, in<br />

typical fashion, more blunt: “Quit trying to<br />

wish that the freaking plane would blow up<br />

or the pilot would have a heart attack, guys;<br />

you know, [if] he goes down and he fucks<br />

up, we’re all going down.” She argues that if<br />

Americans helped him instead of poking at<br />

him, he might calm himself. “He should slow<br />

down a bit,” she says, “show more reserve.”<br />

Whatever happens, it won’t be the status quo.<br />

The Economic Hardship Reporting Project<br />

contributed research to this story.<br />

COVERS<br />

Bella Hadid wears: Organza top, $29,850, skirt, $58,850, by Chanel, at select<br />

Chanel boutiques, call 800-550-0005. Gold earrings, $3,100, yellow and<br />

white gold and diamond earring, $5,700 (for pair), by Chanel Fine Jewelry, at<br />

Chanel Fine Jewelry boutiques nationwide, call 800-550-0005.<br />

Maria Borges wears: Cotton tank by Calvin Klein Underwear, $40 (for pack of 3),<br />

visit calvinklein.com. Gold and diamond earring by 2017 Tiffany Blue Book<br />

Collection, call 800-843-3269 or visit tiffany.com.<br />

Elsa Hosk wears: Pink gold, diamond, and coral watch, pink gold, diamond,<br />

ruby, and lacquer watch, by Bulgari, call 800-BULGARI or visit bulgari.com.<br />

Jasmine Tookes wears: Silk lace dress by Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, $2,850,<br />

collection at Barneys New York. Gold and diamond earring by Maria Tash,<br />

$575, at Maria Tash (NYC). Gold necklace by Cartier, $4,800, at Cartier<br />

boutiques nationwide, call 800-CARTIER or visit cartier.com. Gold and<br />

diamond rings by Tiffany & Co., $2,200–$2,950 each, call 800-843-3269 or<br />

visit tiffany.com.<br />

Candice Huffine wears: Silk dress by Fendi, $2,650, visit fendi.com. Gold<br />

bracelet by Lalaounis, $10,270, at Lalaounis (NYC). Gold pinkie ring by David<br />

Yurman, $1,950, at David Yurman (NYC), visit davidyurman.com.<br />

Hailey Baldwin wears: Knit top by Alexandre Vauthier, $1,251, collection at<br />

elysewalker.com. Gold necklace by Cartier, $4,800, at Cartier boutiques<br />

nationwide, call 800-CARTIER or visit cartier.com.<br />

Produced by Una Simone Harris for Wanted Media [all]; fashion assistant:<br />

Yashua Simmons [all].<br />

TABLE OF CONTENTS<br />

PAGE 38: Skirt, sandals by Alexander Wang, similar styles at Alexander Wang<br />

(NYC). Hoop earring by Annelise Michelson, collection at saksfifthavenue<br />

.com. Stud earring by Hearts On Fire, visit heartsonfire.com. Backpack by Nancy<br />

Gonzalez, collection at Saks Fifth Avenue stores nationwide. Clutch by Kara,<br />

visit karastore.com. Bangles by Lagos, visit lagos.com. Ring by Cartier, visit<br />

cartier.com. PAGE 46: Bracelet by Van Cleef & Arpels, visit vancleefarpels.com.<br />

TRENDS AND ACCESSORIES<br />

PAGE 95: Bracelet by Monica Rich Kosann, visit monicarichkosann.com.<br />

PAGE 96: Handbag by Louis Vuitton, at select Louis Vuitton boutiques<br />

nationwide. PAGE 98: Top, skirt, platforms by Proenza Schouler, visit<br />

proenzaschouler.com. PAGE 100: Vest by Milly, visit milly.com. On model:<br />

Vest, trousers by Michael Kors Collection, at select Michael Kors stores<br />

nationwide. T-shirt by Hanes, visit hanes.com. Watch by Cartier, call<br />

800-CARTIER. Ankle boots by Manolo Blahnik for Adam Lippes, call 212-582-<br />

3007. PAGE 105: Slide by Prada, visit prada.com. Slide by Miu Miu, at select<br />

Miu Miu boutiques nationwide. PAGE 106: Sunglasses by Louis Vuitton, call<br />

866-VUITTON. Sunglasses by Dior, call 800-929-DIOR. PAGE 112: Ring by<br />

Martin Katz, $188,000, at Martin Katz (Beverly Hills). Handbag by Hermès,<br />

call 800-441-4488. PAGE 114: Watch by Piaget, $52,000, at Piaget boutiques<br />

nationwide. PAGE 116: Ring by Van Cleef & Arpels, call 877-VAN-<br />

CLEEF. Bracelet by Cartier, available by appointment only, at<br />

select Cartier boutiques nationwide. Earrings by Harry Winston,<br />

call 800-988-4110.<br />

SHOPS<br />

PAGE 124: Sunglasses by alice + olivia by Stacey Bendet, visit<br />

aliceandoliviaeyewear.com. Cardigan, belt by Lands’ End, call 800-963-<br />

4816. Shorts by Coach 1941, similar styles at select Coach stores nationwide.<br />

Tote by Akris, visit akris.ch. Flatform by Nautica, call 866-376-4184. Flatform<br />

by Boss, visit hugoboss.com. PAGE 126: Bikini by La Perla, visit laperla.com.<br />

Bucket bag by Truss, collection at fwrd.com. Swimsuit by Aerie, visit aerie<br />

.com. Jacket by Old Navy, at Old Navy stores nationwide. PAGE 128: Dress by<br />

Rachel Comey, collection at needsupply.com, fwrd.com. Top by Lucky Brand,<br />

visit luckybrand.com. Shorts by Pinko, at Pinko (NYC). Necklace by Carolina<br />

Bucci, at Carolina Bucci (London). PAGE 132: Swimsuit by Oye Swimwear, visit<br />

oyeswimwear.com, collection at Bergdorf Goodman (NYC). Shorts by Kit and<br />

Ace, at select Kit and Ace stores nationwide. Sandal by Michael Michael Kors,<br />

call 866-709-KORS. PAGE 135: Swimsuit by Alix, collection at clubmonaco<br />

.com. Swimsuit by Gap, visit gap.com. Swimsuit by Old Navy, visit oldnavy<br />

.com. Tote by Soeur, at Soeur boutiques nationwide.<br />

INDEPENDENT SPIRIT<br />

PAGE 201: Sweatshirt by Levi’s, $65, visit levi.com. Cuff by Verdura, $9,950,<br />

visit verdura.com. Cuff by Aurélie Bidermann, $325, at Aurélie Bidermann<br />

(NYC). PAGES 202–203: Dress, $2,900, top, $2,300, by Gucci, visit gucci<br />

.com. Hoop earrings by Dolce & Gabbana, $455, at select Dolce & Gabbana<br />

boutiques nationwide. PAGE 206: Dress by Bottega Veneta, $12,000, call 800-<br />

845-6790. Earring by Hearts On Fire, $2,500 (for pair), call 877-PERFECT.<br />

Bracelet by Piaget, $10,500, at Piaget boutiques nationwide. PAGES 210–211:<br />

Jacket by Sandro, $495, visit sandro-paris.com. Earrings by Bottega Veneta,<br />

$450, call 800-845-6790. PAGES 214–215: Top by Banana Republic, $78, visit<br />

bananarepublic.com. Hoops by Roxanne Assoulin, $75, visit roxanneassoulin<br />

.com. PAGE 216: T-shirt by Marc Jacobs, $250, visit marcjacobs.com. Earring<br />

by Eddie Borgo, $225 (for pair), visit eddieborgo.com. PAGE 220: Dress by<br />

Derek Lam, $1,495, at Derek Lam (NYC).<br />

THE BEAUTIFUL<br />

PAGE 241: Necklace by Cartier, at Cartier boutiques nationwide.<br />

SUPER GIRLS<br />

PAGE 242: Earrings by Hearts On Fire, visit heartsonfire.com. PAGE 243:<br />

T-shirt by Calvin Klein Underwear, visit calvinklein.com. Rigid Re-Release<br />

jeans by Frame Denim, collection at net-a-porter.com. Earring by Hearts On<br />

Fire, visit heartsonfire.com. Suspenders by The Tie Bar, visit thetiebar.com.<br />

Watch by Rolex, visit rolex.com. Oxfords by Saint Laurent, at Saint Laurent<br />

(NYC). PAGES 244–245: Earrings by Glenn Spiro, collection at Bergdorf<br />

Goodman (NYC), call 646-735-5257. PAGE 246: Arm bracelet by David<br />

Yurman, at David Yurman (NYC). PAGE 247: Earring by Maria Tash, at<br />

Maria Tash (NYC). Rings by Tiffany & Co., call 800-843-3269. PAGE 248:<br />

Hoop earrings by David Yurman, at David Yurman (NYC). Sandals by Pierre<br />

Hardy, visit pierrehardy.com. PAGE 249: Chain by Verdura, at Verdura<br />

(NYC). Pinkie ring by David Yurman, visit davidyurman.com. PAGE 250:<br />

Dresses by Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci, similar styles at Givenchy (NYC).<br />

PAGE 251: Boots by Gianvito Rossi, collection at Barneys New York. PAGE<br />

252: Top, skirt, tights, necklace by Balenciaga, at Balenciaga (NYC),<br />

collection at Bergdorf Goodman (NYC). PAGE 253: Earring by 2017 Tiffany<br />

Blue Book Collection, visit tiffany.com.<br />

LAWS OF ATTRACTION<br />

PAGE 260: Bikini by Tavik, visit tavik.com. PAGE 261: Bodysuit by Versace, visit<br />

versace.com. PAGE 262: Top by DSquared2, DSquared2 (NYC, Beverly Hills,<br />

Miami). Pants by Adidas Originals, visit adidas.com. PAGE 263: Jumpsuit by<br />

Paco Rabanne, visit pacorabanne.com. Sports bra by Victoria’s Secret, visit<br />

victoriassecret.com. PAGE 264: Top by Chanel, call 800-550-0005. Jacket by<br />

Nike, visit nike.com. PAGE 265: Swimsuit by Guess, visit guess.com. Pants by<br />

Adidas Originals, similar styles at adidas.com. Watch by Omega, at Omega<br />

boutiques nationwide. Fanny pack by Asos, visit asos.com. Sneakers by Reebok,<br />

visit reebok.com. PAGE 266: Sweatshirt by Alexander Wang, similar styles at<br />

Alexander Wang (NYC). Top by Puma, visit puma.com. Pants, sandals by<br />

Courrèges, visit courreges.com. Watch by Chanel, call 800-550-0005. Belt bag<br />

by Kenzo, visit kenzo.com. PAGE 267: Hoodie, sweatpants by Champion, visit<br />

champion.com, collection at urbanoutfitters.com. Watch by Bulgari, call<br />

800-BULGARI. Sneakers by Reebok, visit reebok.com. PAGE 268: Hoodie by<br />

Adidas Originals, at Adidas stores nationwide. Watch by Omega, at Omega<br />

boutiques nationwide. PAGE 269: Bodysuit by Mugler, collection at Neiman<br />

Marcus stores nationwide. Pumps by Christian Louboutin, visit<br />

christianlouboutin.com. PAGE 270: Bra by Chantelle, visit chantelle.com.<br />

Jumpsuit by Fendi, visit fendi.com. PAGE 271: Top by Adidas Originals by<br />

Alexander Wang, visit adidas.com. Watch by Apple Watch Nike+, at Apple stores<br />

nationwide, visit nike.com.<br />

AMERICAN GOTH<br />

PAGE 272: Sweater, shirt by Michael Kors Collection, at select Michael Kors stores<br />

nationwide. Jeans by Levi’s, visit levi.com. Necklace by David Yurman, at David<br />

Yurman (NYC). PAGE 273: Dress, bodysuit by Louis Vuitton, at select Louis<br />

Vuitton stores nationwide. Earring by De Beers, $34,000, visit debeers<br />

.com. Rings by Hearts On Fire, visit heartsonfire.com. PAGE 274: T-shirt by Dolce<br />

& Gabbana, at select Dolce & Gabbana boutiques nationwide. Hat by Brixton,<br />

similar styles at brixton.com. PAGE 275: Jacket by Coach 1941, similar styles at<br />

select Coach stores nationwide. Dress by Gucci, visit gucci.com. Hat by Dior, at<br />

Dior boutiques nationwide. Yellow pin by Otherwild, at Otherwild (NYC).<br />

CLEAN BREAK<br />

PAGE 276: Sunglasses by Miu Miu, at select Sunglass Hut boutiques<br />

nationwide. Earring by Maria Black, visit maria-black.com. Earring (worn<br />

throughout) by Charlotte Chesnais, collection at Dover Street Market New<br />

York, The Line (NYC), Quiet Storms (Brooklyn), Fivestory (NYC), Bergdorf<br />

Goodman (NYC). Bracelet, ring by Miansai, visit miansai.com. Ring by<br />

Cartier, at Cartier boutiques nationwide. PAGE 277: Swimsuit by Lauren<br />

Ralph Lauren, collection at select Macy’s stores nationwide. Earrings, cuff by<br />

Agmes, visit agmesnyc.com, collection at Barneys New York (NYC, L.A.),<br />

modaoperandi.com, Tenoversix (L.A.), Alchemy Works (L.A.). Stud earring<br />

by Hearts On Fire, visit heartsonfire.com. Arm cuffs by Maison Margiela, at<br />

Maison Margiela boutiques nationwide. Bracelets, ring by Lagos, visit lagos<br />

.com. Bracelet by John Hardy, visit johnhardy.com. Cuff, ring by Eddie Borgo,<br />

visit eddieborgo.com, collection at shopbop.com. Rings by Maria Black, visit<br />

maria-black.com. Rings by Miansai, visit miansai.com. Ring by Cartier, visit<br />

cartier.com. PAGE 278: Vest by Boss, at Hugo Boss stores nationwide. Top,<br />

skirt, earring by Paco Rabanne, collection at Just One Eye (L.A.). Cuff by Eddie<br />

Borgo, collection at shopbop.com. Ring by Closer by Wwake, visit<br />

closerbywwake.com. Rings by Miansai, visit miansai.com. Handbag by<br />

Kenzo, visit kenzo.com. Sandals by Isabel Marant, at Isabel Marant (NYC).<br />

PAGE 279: T-shirt, top, skirt, earring, handbag by Paco Rabanne, collection at<br />

Barneys New York. Bikini bottom by Jade Swim, visit jadeswim.com. Lipstick<br />

case by Valentino Garavani, at Valentino boutiques nationwide. PAGE 280:<br />

Earring by J.W.Anderson, visit j-w-anderson.com. Backpack, clutch by Kara,<br />

visit karastore.com. Rings by Delfina Delettrez, visit delfinadelettrez.com,<br />

collection at farfetch.com. Ring by David Yurman, visit davidyurman.com.<br />

PAGE 281: Jacket, sunglasses by Max Mara, visit maxmara.com. Shorts by<br />

Roxana Salehoun, collection at matchesfashion.com. Bikini bottom by Cali<br />

Dreaming, collection at anthropologie.com. Earring by Modern Weaving,<br />

collection at needsupply.com. Backpack by Kara, collection at ssense.com.<br />

Rings by Miansai, visit miansai.com. PAGE 282:<br />

Dress by Monse, collection at Neiman Marcus<br />

(Beverly Hills, San Francisco). Hoop earring by<br />

Annelise Michelson, collection at saksfifthavenue<br />

.com. Rings by Miansai, visit miansai.com. Ring by<br />

Cartier, call 800-CARTIER. Clutch by Kara, visit<br />

karastore.com. Sandals by Alexander Wang,<br />

similar styles at Alexander Wang (NYC).<br />

PAGE 283: Jacket, belt, handbag, hat by Miu<br />

Miu, at select Miu Miu boutiques nationwide.<br />

Bikini by Jade Swim, visit jadeswim.com.<br />

Earrings by Proenza Schouler, visit<br />

proenzaschouler.com. Bracelets by<br />

Alyssa Norton, to special order visit alyssanorton.com. Ring<br />

by Eddie Borgo, visit eddieborgo.com. Ring by Miansai,<br />

visit miansai.com. Ring by Closer by Wwake, visit<br />

closerbywwake.com.<br />

MAXIMUM EXPOSURE<br />

PAGE 285: Coat by Max Mara, at Max Mara (NYC).<br />

PAGES 286–287: Dress, skirt, top by Max Mara, at Max<br />

Mara (NYC, Palm Beach).<br />

Prices are approximate. ELLE recommends that<br />

merchandise availability be checked with local<br />

stores.<br />

ELLE (ISSN 0888-0808) (Volume XXXII, Number 9) (May 2017) is published monthly by Hearst Communications, Inc., 300 West 57th Street, New York, NY 10019 U.S.A. Steven R.<br />

Swartz, President and Chief Executive Officer; William R. Hearst III, Chairman; Frank A. Bennack, Jr., Executive Vice Chairman; Catherine A. Bostron, Secretary. Hearst Magazines<br />

Division: David Carey, President; John A. Rohan, Jr., Senior Vice President, Finance. © 2017 by Hearst Communications, Inc. All rights reserved. ELLE ® is used under license from the<br />

trademark owner, Hachette Filipacchi Presse. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Canada Post International Publications mail product (Canadian<br />

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one year. Canada: $48 for one year. Other international locations: $87 for one year. Subscription Services: ELLE will, upon receipt of a complete subscription order, undertake fulfillment<br />

of that order so as to provide the first copy for delivery by the Postal Service or alternate carrier within 4–6 weeks. For customer service, changes of address, and subscription orders,<br />

log on to service.elle.com or write to Customer Service Dept., ELLE, P.O. Box 37870, Boone, IA 50037. From time to time, we make our subscriber list available to companies that sell<br />

goods and services by mail that we believe would interest our readers. If you would rather not receive such offers via postal mail, please send your current mailing label or an exact copy<br />

to: ELLE, Mail Preference Service, P.O. Box 37870, Boone, IA 50037. You can also visit preferences.hearstmags.com to manage your preferences and opt out of receiving marketing<br />

offers by e-mail. To assure quicker service, enclose your mailing label when writing to us or renewing your subscription. Renewal orders must be received at least eight weeks prior to<br />

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291


AMERICAN DREAM<br />

Chris Evans may be Marvel’s brawniest paladin, but this<br />

supersoldier’s real power goes soul-deep. By Mickey Rapkin<br />

Every couple of years, Chris Evans pulls<br />

on his red, white, and blue spandex,<br />

picks up Captain America’s shield, and saves<br />

the world from impending doom. But his<br />

smaller, less-talked-about films (Snowpiercer,<br />

Before We Go) are often just as thrilling. In<br />

Gifted, out now from 500 Days of Summer director<br />

Marc Webb, Evans stars as a sensitive<br />

small-town boat mechanic fighting a custody<br />

battle for his orphaned niece (a first-grade<br />

know-it-all who just may be a math prodigy).<br />

Evans’s own early years were less contentious,<br />

though they weren’t without drama.<br />

His mother ran a local children’s theater in<br />

Concord, Massachusetts, and Evans says he<br />

and his siblings were basically Boston’s answer<br />

to the von Trapps. These days, the<br />

35-year-old—who once spent three weeks in<br />

India studying meditation—is as likely to<br />

quote Siddhartha as he is Sondheim. That<br />

zen, no doubt, comes in handy, whether on<br />

set for the currently filming Avengers: Infinity<br />

War Part 1, or in Evans’s personal life, in<br />

which he’s been linked to Jessica Biel, Minka<br />

Kelly, Lily Collins, and, most recently, his<br />

Gifted costar, Jenny Slate. You know what<br />

they say: Make love, not war.<br />

ELLE: Early in your career, you were often<br />

asked to be shirtless. Tell me about a scene you<br />

might not have done if you’d had more clout.<br />

CHRIS EVANS: It’s so funny; I woke up this<br />

morning, and Not Another Teen Movie was on<br />

TV. I don’t know if you ever saw it, but I had to<br />

put a banana in my butt. [Laughs] At the time,<br />

you’re just so happy to be on a job. I just<br />

looked at it and said, “Who cares? I’m<br />

earning my stripes.”<br />

ELLE: You’re at that age where you’re<br />

going to a lot of birthday parties for<br />

your friends’ kids. How does that feel?<br />

CE: I feel deeply connected to my inner child.<br />

When I see a bounce house and those little<br />

cups of ice cream, I’m like, “Shit. Where’s<br />

mine?” I’m not ashamed of the parts of my<br />

youth that I’m still connected to—whether it’s<br />

cartoons or Disney World or Christmastime. I<br />

think they’re a real representation of my true<br />

self before the world had its impact on me.<br />

ELLE: Seriously?<br />

CE: Sometimes when you see a group of<br />

grown-ups together acting like adults…it’s<br />

just not in me. I always kind of feel like a lit-<br />

tle kid trapped in a 35-year-old’s body.<br />

ELLE: Are your friends pressuring you to settle<br />

down?<br />

CE: I don’t think so. Not to my face.<br />

ELLE: You studied with a guru in India. What<br />

did you learn?<br />

CE: It was one of the most eye-opening experiences<br />

of my life. I had never really meditated<br />

before. I’d tried it, but I’d always been<br />

very aware of my thoughts. While I was over<br />

there, you do it every day. And I really unlocked<br />

a little door in myself. My mind was<br />

really noisy, and I had a lot of questions. My<br />

guru would just say, “Chris, shhh.”<br />

ELLE: What kinds of questions were you asking?<br />

CE: It didn’t matter. I had questions every five<br />

minutes. A lot of our sadness and fears—and<br />

suffering—is born out of this unnecessary<br />

constant narrative. The only reason the brain<br />

wants those questions is because it’s aware of<br />

the past, and it’s fearful of the future. The truth<br />

is, you are not your thoughts. If you are able to<br />

surrender and let your brain be quiet—just for<br />

a minute—a real sense of beauty emerges.<br />

ELLE: What’s the last thing you did that<br />

scared you?<br />

CE: I took the last year off and moved home<br />

to Massachusetts.<br />

ELLE: What’d you do all day, work out?<br />

CE: That’s what a lot of people asked me.…<br />

ELLE: I’m kidding.<br />

CE: To be honest, I didn’t do a whole lot. My<br />

sister has three kids. I spent a lot of time<br />

with them, just really hanging out. I got a<br />

dog a year ago. She’s become a huge part of<br />

my life. I felt very normal, like a regular hu-<br />

man. I felt like my 12-year-old self. And I was<br />

really full of a lot of joy.<br />

ELLE: Would you tell me about a time you<br />

were envious of another man?<br />

CE: I have a lot of really funny friends in my<br />

life. I’m not one of the funny ones. I’m fun.<br />

But I’m not funny. And there’s a big difference.<br />

Anytime I hang out with a guy who<br />

is hilarious, I’m like, Man, I wish my brain<br />

worked the way his does.<br />

ELLE: You’re a big New England Patriots fan.<br />

And a big Democrat. Was it hard for you to<br />

hear that Tom Brady called Donald Trump<br />

personally to congratulate him?<br />

CE: This whole year has had so many tricky<br />

ups and downs. But the Brady-Trump connection<br />

is the one part of it that I truly<br />

have been unable to process in<br />

any capacity. My brain just cannot<br />

reconcile that. I truly chose<br />

to stick my head in the ground<br />

and pretend that doesn’t happen.<br />

I can’t afford to lose my love of Tom<br />

Brady.<br />

ELLE: What would you say if you met Brady?<br />

Would you talk politics?<br />

CE: No way! I’d be lucky if I could even form<br />

words. I would be focusing on being cool,<br />

calm. Don’t be a weirdo. Small sentences.<br />

Don’t aim too high.<br />

ELLE: Why hasn’t there been a stand-alone<br />

Black Widow movie yet?<br />

CE: That’s a good question. It would really just<br />

clean up, wouldn’t it? Scarlett [Johansson] is<br />

so good at everything she does. She’s played<br />

such a crucial part in the other films. She always<br />

makes her presence so felt—even when<br />

there are 50 different superheroes running<br />

around onscreen. I wouldn’t be surprised if<br />

that happens at some point in the future. I’m<br />

sure Scarlett would be open to it.<br />

ELLE: You’ve dated a number of actresses.<br />

How do you handle running into exes in L.A.?<br />

CE: It’s very rare. But I’ve had no bad breakups<br />

in my life. Typically, if I see an ex, I give a big<br />

hug, and it’s wonderful to catch up. If you’re<br />

ever fortunate enough to love someone and<br />

have them love you back, it’s worth protecting<br />

that. It’s rare that someone can truly know<br />

you. And if you’ve broken through that kind<br />

of wall, I think it’s important to value that.<br />

ELLE: Would they say the same about you?<br />

CE: I hope.<br />

Clockwise from top: Mark Mann/August; Getty Images; Everett Collection (2)<br />

292


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