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March/April 2013<br />
March/April 2013
TEXNews 06<br />
Cover Story – Groz-Beckert 26<br />
Happenings 30<br />
Corporate Highlights 32<br />
Articles<br />
Treatment of Textile Waste Water<br />
by Hammad Ghaffar, Sana J. Ansari, Ehsan Ali 54<br />
Fiber Classifying System<br />
by Dr. Guntram Kugler, Anwar-ul-Haq 60<br />
Types of Coating Chemicals used in Technical Textiles<br />
by Engr. Zeeshan Feroze 64<br />
Reports<br />
COVITEX 2013 68<br />
MEGATECH Pakistan 2013 71<br />
Romper suit to protect against sudden infant death 72<br />
Textile Asia 2013 74<br />
Texprocess 2013: New technologies for innovative sportswear 79<br />
TEXEvents 80<br />
March/April2013 March/April 2013
06 07<br />
Canadian government<br />
eliminates<br />
tariffs on<br />
baby clothes<br />
The Government of Canada has removed tariffs on<br />
imports of baby clothes in its bid to reduce the up to<br />
40 percent difference in Canadian and the US retail<br />
prices. The move, announced as a part of the 2013<br />
Federal Budget, also eliminates import tariffs on most<br />
sports equipment.<br />
The Budget expects that wholesalers, distributors<br />
and retailers to pass on the savings in import tariffs to<br />
end-consumers. The Government, in consultation<br />
with various consumer forums and the Retail Council<br />
of Canada, will keep a watch on the impact of the<br />
tariff cuts on Canadian retail prices.<br />
Finance Minister Jim Flaherty called the removal of<br />
duties on baby clothes as a test case to see whether<br />
it results in a reduction in price gap between the US<br />
and Canadian retail prices.<br />
The removal of tariffs on baby clothes applies to<br />
babies’ garments made from cotton, synthetic fibres,<br />
wool, other textile materials, as well as fine animal<br />
hair, and would be enforced from April 1, 2013.<br />
The Government’s announcement follows a Senate<br />
report that sought to answer why the prices in<br />
Canada are up to 40 percent more for some<br />
consumer goods compared to what their neighbours<br />
pay across the southern border. The abolition of<br />
tariffs on baby clothes and sports equipment will<br />
together cost Ca$ 76 million a year to the<br />
Government.<br />
However, the Budget also increased the duties on<br />
imported goods from over 70 countries, including<br />
China and India, which is expected to cost Ca$ 330<br />
million extra per annum in terms of retail price to<br />
Canadian consumers.<br />
March/April2013 March/April 2013
Pakistan increases<br />
2013-14 cotton<br />
production target<br />
08 09<br />
Authorities in Pakistan have applied for duty-free<br />
exports to the European market under the EU's<br />
Generalised System of Preferences Plus (GSP+)<br />
scheme.<br />
The scheme, which will be effective for ten years from<br />
1st January 2014, offers reduced or zero tariff rates<br />
for developing countries that fulfill its criteria. To<br />
qualify, exports of the applicant country should<br />
account for less than 2% of the EU's total GSP<br />
imports, and the country should not be declared as a<br />
middle or high middle income country by the World<br />
Bank.<br />
In addition it also has to prove that it abides by 27<br />
international conventions on human rights, labour<br />
rights, environment, narcotics control and good<br />
governance. Sources at Pakistan's ministry of commerce<br />
say the country has ratified all the conventions,<br />
but could face issues on their implementation.<br />
The process will take eight to ten months, initially<br />
Pakistan applies for<br />
duty-free exports<br />
to the EU<br />
before the European Commission (EC), followed by<br />
the European Parliament for approval, said Lars-Gunnar<br />
Wigemark, EU Ambassador to Pakistan.<br />
Currently Pakistan enjoys tariff preferences under the<br />
temporary EU Autonomous Trade Preferential<br />
Arrangement for 75 items - most of which are textiles,<br />
clothing and footwear. This arrangement stands until<br />
31 December 2013.<br />
Gohar Ejaz, group leader and ex-chairman of the All<br />
Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA), told<br />
just-style that if Pakistan was granted GSP+, the<br />
country's textile and clothing exports could nearly<br />
double to US$22bn in three years from the current<br />
level of US$12.4bn.<br />
Pakistan is the fifth largest textile and clothing<br />
supplier to the EU with an annual trade volume of<br />
over EUR 8bn. Textile and clothing exports rose 8.4%<br />
in the first seven months of fiscal 2013.<br />
Pakistan’s Ministry of Textile Industry has increased<br />
the cotton production target for the forthcoming<br />
season to 14.1 million bales, up from the ongoing<br />
season’s target of 13.3 million bales, the Ministry<br />
informed the Senate Standing Committee on Textile<br />
and Production.<br />
The estimations for forthcoming season’s output<br />
have been derived on the basis of ongoing season’s<br />
acreage-output estimates, where country is expected<br />
to yield 13.3 million bales of cotton from seven million<br />
acres.<br />
Next season, the cultivation acreage is expected to<br />
rise to around eight million acres to deliver an output<br />
of 14.1 million bales, Cotton Commissioner Dr. Khalid<br />
Abdullah informed the meeting headed by Senator<br />
Maula Baksh Chandio.<br />
Water crisis during sowing period and floods and<br />
rains in the latter part of the crop season, damaged<br />
Pakistan’s Ministry of Textile Industry has allocated Pk<br />
Rs. 179 million to construct a cotton ginning research<br />
institute in Multan. The setting up of the research<br />
institute is a part of the Government’s aim to modernize<br />
and increase the productivity of ginning factories<br />
in the country.<br />
Cotton Development Commissioner of Pakistan, Dr.<br />
Khalid Abdullah told that, “We will be constructing a<br />
ginning research institute in Multan to increase the<br />
productivity of the ginning sector in the country.” He<br />
informed, “Pakistan’s Textile Ministry has allocated Pk<br />
Rs. 179 million for the construction of the ginning<br />
research institute.”<br />
around one million bales of cotton during the ongoing<br />
season, causing the Government to set the current<br />
season’s output target below previous year’s actual<br />
output of 13.59 million bales, Dr. Abdullah said.<br />
Condemning the Government for its gas provision<br />
policy for textile industries, Textile Industry Secretary<br />
Dr. Waqar Masood said 434 textile units with captive<br />
power plants get 2<strong>25</strong> million cubic feet gas per day<br />
(mmcfd) from the Government. These plants generate<br />
around 680 megawatts (MW) power, but the<br />
electricity so generated is used by these units for<br />
their personalized consumption, without making any<br />
contribution to the national grid station.<br />
The Secretary suggested that instead of providing<br />
gas to these units, it should be provided to four<br />
Lahore-based power plants, which are more efficient<br />
and have ability to generate more power. The cost of<br />
power-generation at these plants would be much less<br />
and would benefit the general public, he added.<br />
Cotton ginning<br />
research<br />
institute in Pakistan<br />
Talking about the benefits of the new research<br />
institute to cotton ginners, he says, “The ginning<br />
research institute will provide training to the workers<br />
in the ginning factories. The research institute will<br />
also work on modernizing and increasing the productivity<br />
of 1200 cotton ginning factories in Pakistan.”<br />
The location for the construction of the ginning<br />
institute has already been finalized. “We have<br />
finalized the location for the construction of the<br />
research institute which will be provided by the<br />
Cotton Research Institute in Multan,” said Dr. Dilbaagh<br />
Muhammad, Director of Cotton Research<br />
Institute-Pakistan.<br />
March/April2013 March/April 2013
10 11<br />
BASF To<br />
Reorganize<br />
Leather And<br />
Textile<br />
Chemicals<br />
Business<br />
BASF Germany has announced plans to reorganize its Leather and Textile Chemicals business unit<br />
(BU) to concentrate on the Asia-Pacific region and on high-value-adding applications.<br />
Leather Chemicals will focus on core technologies for the automotive industry and premium leather<br />
segment, and Textile Chemicals will focus on value-adding steps such as printing and finishing and<br />
solutions for manufacturing premium textile items.<br />
BASF will establish a global innovation center for its Leather and Textile Chemicals BU in China,<br />
which is its main growth market. The center will be located within the BASF Innovation Campus in<br />
Shanghai and will be part of the R&D Innovation Cooperation.<br />
In addition, the company will eliminate 65 positions globally including 29 in Ludwigshafen, Germany,<br />
to adjust to the BU's new setup. However, BASF reports it will create approximately 23 positions to<br />
support the anticipated growth in China, India and Turkey.<br />
"BASF strives to remain the preferred partner of the leather and textile industries for reliable and<br />
innovative chemical solutions," said François Desné, senior vice president, Leather and Textile<br />
Chemicals global business unit, BASF. "We are reshaping our business setup to strengthen our<br />
long-term ability to compete in a rapidly changing market environment."<br />
“Anti-Rape” underthings<br />
In the wake of the horrific gang rape in Delhi last December, Indian women are taking to the streets<br />
in protest and even creating products to help prevent rape. Three engineering students have come<br />
up with anti-rape lingerie that will literally shock an assailant with electricity if they attack someone<br />
who is wearing it. The underthings, named SHE (Society Harnessing Equipment) are also equipped<br />
with GPS and the ability to text emergency services and the girl’s parents to alert them of her<br />
location and situation. The trio created the electro-shock underwear because they felt helpless that<br />
the government wasn’t doing enough to protect women.<br />
Currently in Delhi, 96% of women feel unsafe going out into the city at night and fear being raped.<br />
This shocking statistic is only the more shocking when you delve into the state of affairs or read more<br />
about the very recent gang rape catastrophe. While protests and political activism are helping bring<br />
about new laws that prosecute sexual assaulters, many rapes still go unreported.<br />
Feeling helpless even with the new laws, Manisha Mohan, Niladri Basu Bal, and Rimpi Tripathi,<br />
engineering students from SRM University in Chennai took matters into their own hands to create<br />
SHE, a wearable device that helps stop rape. The underwear is equipped with sensors and an<br />
electric shock circuit board, which is integrated into the bosom area. Surveys have shown that most<br />
women are first attacked near her chest, so this seems to be the best place to place the devices.<br />
When an attacker comes after the girl, the sensors go off and the assaulter gets a shock of 3,800 kV.<br />
Also equipped with GPS and text messaging, the device sends a text to emergency services and the<br />
girl’s parents along with location data.<br />
The product is still under development and the two girl and guy team are working on using new<br />
textiles and integration so it can all be washable. They would also like to integrate the wearable with<br />
a smart phone, Bluetooth and infrared. Jezebel makes an incredible point in that while this anti-rape<br />
device is incredible, it also only affects the symptoms of a much larger problem – the victimization of<br />
women. Major cultural shifts need to happen, and quickly<br />
The reorganization is expected to be completed by the end of 2014.<br />
March/April 2013 March/April 2013
12<br />
13<br />
Greenpeace demands<br />
toxic-free fashion<br />
“Today we remember those who<br />
are suffering from industrial water<br />
pollution and celebrate the<br />
bravery, passion and persistence<br />
of the people around the world<br />
working tirelessly to create a<br />
toxic-free tomorrow,” said Tianjie<br />
Ma, Head of Greenpeace East<br />
Asia’s Toxic Campaign.<br />
“Just last month the Chinese<br />
government acknowledged for the<br />
first time the existence of 'cancer<br />
villages' linked to pollution from<br />
hazardous chemicals, and<br />
signaled their willingness to<br />
address toxic water pollution in an<br />
open and transparent manner,”<br />
said Ma.<br />
“Industry also has a crucial role to<br />
play in creating a toxic-free future,<br />
and as one of the major contributors<br />
toward toxic pollution the<br />
textile industry needs to both take<br />
responsibility for the issue and<br />
work to champion the solutions.”<br />
“Since launching in July 2011, the<br />
people-powered Detox campaign<br />
has managed to convince seventeen<br />
international brands including<br />
Zara, Levi’s and Victoria’s Secret<br />
to commit to eliminate all hazardous<br />
chemicals from their supply<br />
chains and products. Around the<br />
world a groundswell of fashionistas,<br />
designers and activists has<br />
joined together to demand clothes<br />
with a story we can be proud of.”<br />
“Together will continue to expose<br />
these big fashion brands and<br />
ensure they deliver on their public<br />
promises until World Water Day<br />
becomes something we celebrate<br />
rather than lament,” said Ma.<br />
Greenpeace’s Detox campaign<br />
demands fashion brands commit<br />
to zero discharge of all hazardous<br />
chemicals by 2020 and require<br />
their suppliers to disclose all<br />
releases of toxic chemicals from<br />
their facilities to communities at<br />
the site of the water pollution.<br />
Researchers at KTH<br />
Royal Institute of<br />
Technology have<br />
discovered an antibacterial<br />
polymer that can be used in<br />
everyday products such as<br />
sportswear, diapers and bandages,<br />
without causing resistant bacteria.<br />
"We got around the problem of resistant bacteria<br />
by creating an antibacterial surface in which polymer<br />
binds with cellulose," says KTH chemistry researcher<br />
Josefin Illergård. “We have managed to find an<br />
antibacterial polymer that attaches stably to cellulose<br />
and therefore cannot be released into the environment,”<br />
says Josefin Illergård, a chemistry researcher<br />
at KTH.<br />
The discovery could be an important breakthrough in<br />
the search for environmentally-friendly ways to control<br />
bacteria while preventing antibiotic resistance and<br />
resistant bacteria.<br />
Illergård says the team’s discovery is based on<br />
cellulose fibres embedded in a polymer, which kills<br />
bacteria. Cellulose is the most common organic<br />
substance in nature and the primary structural<br />
component of plant cell walls. The active polymer is<br />
so strongly bonded to the fibres of the cellulose<br />
material that it does not loosen or leak into the<br />
environment via water.<br />
Antibacterial agents such as triclosan and silver ions<br />
are commonly used in sportswear and shoes to<br />
Eco-safe<br />
antibacterial<br />
fibre<br />
discovered<br />
remove unpleasant<br />
odors from bacteria<br />
formation. But such<br />
biocides leak into the<br />
environment when the<br />
treated garments or surfaces<br />
are washed, raising the risk that<br />
bacteria will gradually become<br />
resistant to their effect.“If someone uses a<br />
cloth to wipe a countertop treated with<br />
antibacterial agents, and that cloth is rinsed in the<br />
sink, those substances are then spread further<br />
through the drain and into the environment where they<br />
can contaminate soil and water and give rise to<br />
bacterial resistance,” Illergård says. The material may<br />
have applications in water purification. She says that<br />
bacteria must come in direct contact with the material<br />
for the antibacterial process to work.<br />
Because polymer has a positive charge and bacteria<br />
a negative charge, the new material actually attracts<br />
bacteria, she says. The material does not contain<br />
large amounts of polymer; and only non-toxic<br />
nitrogen oxides remain after it is burned. Nevertheless,<br />
the team’s goal for the future is to continue the<br />
research and try to replace the antibacterial polymer<br />
with an entirely renewable material.<br />
Illergård says the material could be ideal for simple<br />
water treatment in the future. “What if water could be<br />
purified in an environmentally friendly manner by our<br />
material, instead of just strainers?” she asks. “Many<br />
lives would be saved, and the material could be<br />
placed directly on the fire and burned after use.”<br />
March/April 2013 March/April 2013
14 15<br />
Top American Retailers<br />
penalized for falsely labeling<br />
Amazon.com, Leon Max, Macy’s, and Sears have agreed to pay a combined $1.26 million in fines after the<br />
Federal Trade Commission charged them with marketing products as bamboo when they were actually derived<br />
from rayon. While so-called bamboo textiles are often promoted as environmentally friendly, the chemical-intensive<br />
process for manufacturing rayon—even when it’s made from bamboo—is far from “green,” according to<br />
the federal agency, which sent a business alert in 2009 advising manufacturers and sellers not to label or<br />
advertise a textile as bamboo if it wasn’t made directly of bamboo fiber (“rayon” or “rayon made from bamboo”<br />
are the preferred terms).<br />
According to the FTC’s complaints, each of the four companies violated the Textile Products Identification Act<br />
and the FTC’s Textile Rules by claiming, without qualification, that the textile fiber in certain retail and private-label<br />
products was bamboo. Amazon.com, for instance, described a “Summer Infant Crib Sheet” as “100 percent<br />
organic bamboo.” The retailer also sold a product called the “Scene Weavers Pickles Bamboo Knit Garden<br />
Stripe Baby Blanket,” which it labeled “100 percent knit bamboo.”<br />
The FTC alleged that Leon Max, which does business as Max Studio, sold a “Silk & Bamboo Broadcloth Shirred<br />
Shell,” which it claimed was made of a “delicate and eco-friendly bamboo and silk fabric” comprised of “65<br />
percent bamboo, 35 percent silk.” In addition, it sold a “Football Tee” that was labeled “50 percent bamboo, 50<br />
percent cotton.”<br />
Macy’s allegedly advertised and sold retail products designated as “bamboo” and “bamboo fiber” on their<br />
textile labels. One product description for the “2(x)ist Contour Campus Pouch Brief,” for example, stated that it<br />
offered, “plenty of cool comfort and support…crafted in a cotton-bamboo blend for unbeatable performance.”<br />
Sears allegedly claimed that some sheet sets sold in its stores and on its websites were made of “Pure Fiber<br />
100 Percent Bamboo.” The retailer also sold a “Ty Pennington Style Bamboo Sheet Set,” which it characterized<br />
as “55 percent bamboo/45 percent cotton.”<br />
“When attempting to appeal to environmentally conscious consumers, companies need to ensure they don’t<br />
cross the line into misleading labeling and advertising,” Charles Harwood, acting director of the FTC’s Bureau<br />
of Consumer Protection, says in a statement. “If a textile is made of rayon, sellers need to say that, even if<br />
bamboo was used somewhere along the line in the production process.”<br />
Aside from the civil penalties each company has agreed to pay, the proposed orders settling the FTC’s charges<br />
prohibit the companies from failing to properly identify the fiber content of the “bamboo” textiles they sell,<br />
including products sold or marketed as antimicrobial, antibacterial, or antifungal.<br />
“Healthy Seas”<br />
Discarded<br />
Fishing Nets<br />
into Socks<br />
World’s oceans are full of trash and debris, but now<br />
a new consortium of European companies and<br />
NGOs have a plan in place to collect that debris<br />
and recycle it. Aided by the European Centre for<br />
Nature Conservation (ECNC), plastics<br />
manufacturer Aquafil and sock maker Star Sock<br />
have announced a new initiative that will collect<br />
debris, especially fishing nets, and transform into<br />
new nylon for textiles. Since 2011, The ‘Healthy<br />
Seas, a Journey from Waste to Wear’ initiative has<br />
already collected 16,000 tons of pre- and<br />
post-consumer waste and turned it into new<br />
polymers and yarns.<br />
Every year, approximately 640,000 tons of fishing<br />
nets are abandoned in the oceans, accounting for<br />
one-tenth of all marine litter. The Healthy Seas<br />
initiative aims not only to clear the oceans of this<br />
and more debris, but to turn it all into something<br />
useful. Currently, the initiative is developing best<br />
practices in the North, Adriatic and Mediterranean<br />
seas, so the project can be rolled out worldwide in<br />
coming years. They are also identifying methods to<br />
discourage abandoning fishing equipment and<br />
encouraging responsible use. Finally the group will<br />
share their findings with governments and other<br />
organizations to encourage best practices.<br />
The bulk of their work though is to physically collect<br />
and recycle the ocean debris. To this end, Aquafil<br />
created a new product, Econyl, a nylon product<br />
from recycled plastics. Econly can be used in a<br />
variety of applications, including fiber for synthetic<br />
carpet, textiles for apparel and for injected molded<br />
plastics. In 2012, the material was made using 30%<br />
post-consumer waste collected from the oceans,<br />
but this year in 2013, they will bump up the<br />
ocean-collected recycled content to 50%. For every<br />
10,000 tons of Econyl produced, the initiative will<br />
eliminate 11,000 tons of waste, save 70,000 barrels<br />
of oil and avoid 41,000 tons of CO2 emissions.<br />
March/April 2013 March/April 2013
16 17<br />
Industry opposes 2<br />
percent sales tax on<br />
domestic sales<br />
Opposing the imposition of 2.0<br />
percent sales tax on domestic<br />
sales of textile sector of the<br />
country by abolishing the zero<br />
rating sales tax, President of<br />
Multan Chamber of Commerce<br />
and Industry (MCCI) Muhammad<br />
Khan Saddozai described a blow<br />
to the industry and detrimental to<br />
the business community.<br />
He said, textile industry is already<br />
passing through severe economic<br />
stress due to power and gas load<br />
The State Bank of Pakistan has<br />
decided to increase rate of<br />
refinance under the Export<br />
Finance Scheme effective from<br />
April 1, said a circular issued by<br />
the bank.<br />
The refinance rate was increased<br />
to 8.4 percent from 8.2 percent<br />
indicating the future trend of<br />
interest rate. Though, the increase<br />
shedding, high prices of raw<br />
material, depreciation of currency,<br />
higher inflation.<br />
MCCI Chief said that government<br />
should expand the tax-net instead<br />
of imposing taxes on the existing<br />
tax-payers. Government should<br />
send notices to identified 300,000<br />
biggest tax evaders in a bid to<br />
broaden the narrow tax base and<br />
reduce reliance of the country on<br />
foreign loans.<br />
is not very significant but it<br />
indicates that the State Bank<br />
might adopt tightening of monetary<br />
policy in future. The SBP said<br />
the commercial banks will ensure<br />
that where financing facilities are<br />
extended by them to the exporters<br />
for availing refinance facilities<br />
under the EFS, their maximum<br />
margin or spread does not exceed<br />
one percent per annum. The<br />
He included that FBR chairman<br />
had admitted that it was simply a<br />
'nightmare' and shocking to see<br />
highly narrowed tax base as only<br />
750,000 were registered in the<br />
income tax system out of 180<br />
million population, only 100<br />
companies pay 82 percent of<br />
sales tax and tax paid by one<br />
tobacco company is more than<br />
what whole salaried class pay to<br />
the national tax revenues.<br />
SBP raises<br />
export refinance rate<br />
revised markup rate is not applicable<br />
on currently outstanding loans<br />
availed under the EFS. The<br />
reimbursement of mark-up rate<br />
benefit to exporters, on excess<br />
performance under Part-II of the<br />
scheme will be adjusted accordingly<br />
keeping in view the revised<br />
mark-up rates, said the SBP<br />
circular.<br />
Germany to help<br />
investors for<br />
investing in Pakistan<br />
German Ambassador to Pakistan, Cyrill Jean Nunn said that his government was ready to provide necessary<br />
help to German investors for making investment in Pakistan. Addressing the business community at<br />
Islamabad Chamber of Commerce and Industry (ICCI), he said that there were vast prospects of mutual<br />
cooperation between the two countries to further strengthen the trade relations.<br />
He also discussed a range of subjects related to the bilateral relationship between Germany and Pakistan,<br />
including the cultural, political and economic dimensions. He said that among the major sectors, Germany<br />
works with Pakistan in sectors like energy, health and governance.<br />
"Germany considers trade the best form of cooperation between countries", he said.<br />
He observed that within the European Union, Germany is the largest trading partner of Pakistan and said<br />
that Germany has an interest in seeing the EU engage with Pakistan.<br />
Mr. Cyrill said that Pakistan and Germany are enjoying balanced volume of trade that stood around $2.2billion.<br />
He said that there is huge demand of Pakistani textile products in German markets as well as he<br />
identified tourism as a potential sector of mutual interest and said that Pakistan should also focus this area<br />
to promote tourism.<br />
Speaking on the occasion, Zafar Bakhtawari, President ICCI said that Pakistan and Germany are enjoying<br />
historically good relations, thus, more German companies should come Pakistan and make investment in<br />
the areas of their interests. ICCI President said that Germany is meeting its energy needs by vastly using<br />
wind technology and solar electricity systems installed all across the country in addition to hydel resources.<br />
Pakistan presents a huge scope for German investors to set up projects of producing alternate energy, he<br />
added. He thanked Germany for its support in getting enhanced market access for Pakistani products in<br />
the EU and appreciated the positive role of Germany in restoring peace in Afghanistan. He said that any<br />
investment made in Pakistan will automatically find its way to the regional countries, which goes to the<br />
extent of Central Asian States.<br />
March/April2013 March/April 2013
“Dirty White<br />
Gold,” a Film<br />
exposing<br />
Cotton Farming’s<br />
Dark Side<br />
18 19<br />
Journalist Leah Borromeo’s documentary-in-the-making,<br />
“The Cotton Film: Dirty<br />
White Gold,” follows the life of cotton from<br />
seed to store, tracing who it touches and<br />
how their lives are effected. The film, which<br />
is in the funding stages, brings the journalist<br />
to the cotton fields of India, where<br />
farmers committing suicide has become a<br />
commonality. The film uncovers the real<br />
truth behind cotton, and the utter importance<br />
of buying sustainable fashion.<br />
Borromeo asks the question- when you<br />
bag a bargain, who pays for it? The answer<br />
traces back to the source, to the cotton<br />
fields of India. Over 300,000 Indian cotton<br />
farmers have killed themselves to escape<br />
debt, making so little that they not only<br />
can’t provide for their families, but sink<br />
even further into debt the more they work.<br />
Many tragically have drank the very<br />
pesticides they spray onto their cotton<br />
crops to end their lives, and thus ending<br />
their cycle of poverty, overworking and<br />
debt.<br />
The film will also trace the cotton seed to<br />
the next level, to the factories and manufacturers<br />
that make the clothes we buy and<br />
wear everyday. From working conditions to<br />
environmental hazards to fair trade, the film<br />
will uncover it all, with the inquisitive and<br />
fearless Leah Borromeo at the helm.<br />
If Borromeo and her team raise funds<br />
through crowdfunding, a private foundating<br />
will match this amount, making the filmand<br />
Borromeo’s intense journey possible.<br />
With the work that she has already done,<br />
Borromeo shows us just how important it is<br />
to see where our clothing comes from- not<br />
just by visiting the sweatshops that we’ve<br />
all heard about, but to the source, the<br />
fields and farmers which are just as<br />
effected by our purchase of our favorite<br />
garments everyday.<br />
New Biomimetic<br />
Fiber, Inspired by<br />
Pine Cones, Keeps<br />
You Dryer Longer<br />
A new textile developed in the UK can make your workout a little less sweaty. Called Inotek, the process amps<br />
up textiles’ ability to absorb sweat, in effect pulling it away from the body- leaving you clean and dry. Developed<br />
by MMT Textiles, Inotek can benefit athletes, gym fanatics, and those moving from hot to cold environments.<br />
When most fabrics are hit with moisture, then absorb it, causing the fabric to swell. The fabric then becomes<br />
damp and heavy, locking in moisture and keeping it close to the body. INOTEK does the opposite. The structure<br />
of Inotek textiles are actually inspired by nature. Using the botanical structure of pine cones as a model, the<br />
textile mimics the cones’ response to moisture, which opens and closes with higher levels.<br />
As sweat migrates toward the fabric, the fibers in Inotek begin to close like a pine cone, keeping moisture out.<br />
To keep the fabric breathing, tiny air pockets open along the surface of the textile as moisture sets in. Contrasting<br />
to traditional fabrics like wool, an Inotek blend with wool will actually become 10 percent thinner in moisture<br />
laden conditions! Once dried out, the fibers bounce back to their original structure.<br />
With permeability and ventilation, Inotek textile products could help athletes keep cool after a long work out,<br />
without massive sweat stains. Even more beneficial, cold weather sports enthusiasts can keep drier when<br />
passing from ski slope to warm lodge and back out into the elements again.<br />
March/April2013 March/April 2013
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21<br />
Headscarves<br />
for cancer<br />
patients<br />
A Scottish textile company has developed a range of luxury headscarves designed to help cancer patients cope<br />
with the debilitating effects of chemotherapy. More than a way to conceal hair loss, Murray Hogarth’s “Asha”<br />
range features “micro-encapsulated” fabrics said to confer therapeutic benefits such as aromatherapy, ultraviolet<br />
protection, and thermoregulation. Created in tandem with Edinburgh’s Heriot-Watt University’s School of<br />
Textiles and Design, the silk turbans come in several finishes to suit different needs. The aromatherapy finish, for<br />
instance, incorporates tiny hard-shell capsules filled with scented oils such as aloe vera or lavender. Wearing<br />
the garment creates friction, which pops the capsules and releases a subtle fragrance.<br />
New Fabric Dyeing – fluid CO2, Not Water<br />
A Dutch company has unveiled what it believes to be the first<br />
commercial dyeing machine to replace water with supercritical<br />
carbon dioxide—a pressurized form of the gas with unusual<br />
liquid-like properties. Heated up to 31 degrees Celsius (88 degrees<br />
Fahrenheit) and pressurized to 74 bar, CO2 takes on the characteristics<br />
of both a liquid and a gas, allowing for the dissolution of compounds<br />
such as dyes. For DyeCoo Textile System’s purposes, CO2<br />
is heated to 120 degrees Celsius (248 degrees Fahrenheit) and<br />
pressurized to <strong>25</strong>0 bar. Behaving as both a solvent and a solute, the<br />
supercharged carbon dioxide penetrates textile fibers and disperses<br />
the preloaded dyes without extra chemical agents.<br />
Once the dyeing cycle is complete, the CO2 is gasified to recover the excess dye. Unburdened, the clean CO2<br />
cycles back into the dyeing vessel for reuse, a maneuver that saves energy, water, and the heavy metals that<br />
comprise much of the toxic runoff into our planet’s polluted waterways, according to DyeCoo.<br />
DyeCoo’s waterless innovation, which the company has branded DryDye, took 11 years to develop. Its parent<br />
company, FeyeCon, previously engineered scCO2 systems for industrial applications, including chemical<br />
extraction in pharmaceutical production.<br />
A wax finish, on the other hand, melts to absorb heat in high temperatures. The reverse happens when the<br />
mercury drops: the material resolidifies, sending out warmth instead. Other finishes deliver vitamins and moisturizers,<br />
any of which can be customized to fulfill specific requirements.<br />
“Smart textiles are a fast-developing sector that offers enormous potential within the healthcare industry,” says<br />
Alison Harley, head of Heriot-Watt University’s School of Textiles and Design. “This collaboration showcases our<br />
close work with industry, including many small and medium size textile businesses in Scotland, to help them<br />
find ways to add value and grow their business.<br />
Permanently<br />
self-cleaning yarns<br />
A super-hydrophobic filament yarn with a permanent, built-in self-cleaning effect is the result of collaboration<br />
between three German organizations. Deggendorf-based TWD Fibres GmbH has worked with the Institute for<br />
Textile Technology and Process Engineering (ITV) and the Institute of Textile Chemistry and Chemical Fibers<br />
(ITCF), both in Denkendorf, Germany, to develop a spinning process that the partners claim leaves the yarn<br />
with a rough and water-repellent surface. Such surfaces aim to mimic the leaves of a lotus plant, which repel<br />
raindrops causing them to roll off, picking up and carrying away dirt and microorganisms on the way.<br />
The process isn’t without its limitations, however. DyeCoo is currently only able to dye scoured (or prewashed)<br />
polyester fabric, although the company notes that it’s working on a version that will dye unscoured fabric, as<br />
well as reactive dyes for cellulosic textiles made from plants.<br />
March/April 2013 March/April 2013
22<br />
Sewing threads and<br />
zips kill bed bugs<br />
Sewing threads and zips can now be treated with an agent that is fatal to bed bugs, but harmless to humans<br />
and pets, according to the chemical's UK-based developer.<br />
23<br />
Coats plc of Uxbridge says its Insectiban treatment is based on naturally occurring, durable plant extracts and<br />
oils. Users can apply the treatment to any size or colour of thread without affecting the sewing performance.<br />
Further, Insectiban can be used in all European and Asian territories, and will be introduced to the US market<br />
during 2013. It does not require regulatory approval, because it is based on natural extracts, a company<br />
spokesperson confirmed.<br />
AD<br />
TEXtalks International has come to notice some person/institutes/organizations are propagating the rumors that Mr. Yousaf Fareed; (Published &<br />
Editor-in-Chief TEXtalks International) was their employee in the past and was serving for them and made some financial frauds with them. These<br />
gossips are continuously broadcasting by some person directly and indirectly in the textile sector to taint the status and repute of our esteemed<br />
client Mr. Yousaf Fareed and to degrade the repute of TEXtalks International.<br />
We inform you with full confidence that such person/institutes/organizations rumors are just proliferating to worsen the status of our esteemed<br />
client.<br />
TEXtalks International & Mr. Yousaf Fareed had neither concern nor such sort of connection/relation with the fraudulent person/organization.<br />
TEXtalks International informed our valuable clients beware of such culprits/perpetrators/wrongdoers.<br />
Also, any type of dealing (financial/marketing/advertisement/news/articles/whatsoever) in the label of Mr. Yousaf Fareed or TEXtalks International<br />
with such scoundrels will be treated fictitious and TEXtalks International will not be responsible for their actions.<br />
We holds the right of strict judicial/legal action against such offenders. Also, strict legal action is under consideration against such person/institutes/organizations.<br />
These delinquents are hereby also warned to quit their deeds using the name of Mr. Yousaf Fareed/TEXtalks International<br />
immediately otherwise they will be charged/punished by court of law and strict action will be taken by concerned authorities against such crooks.<br />
All relevant organizations/companies/institutions etc. are hereby requested to please contact directly to the office authorized persons after<br />
thorough satisfaction.<br />
Thanking you,<br />
Syed Khalid Javed Bukhari<br />
Advocate Supreme Court of Pakistan<br />
Legal Advisor TEXtalks International<br />
khalidbukharisolicitor@gmail.com<br />
Ph: +92 300 2030050<br />
ATTENTION please…!!!<br />
March/April2013 March/April 2013
24<br />
A co-polymer<br />
polyester<br />
fibre with<br />
premium<br />
comfort and<br />
moisture<br />
management<br />
properties<br />
ComFortrel by Poole is a new, engineered co-polymer polyester<br />
that embraces chemistry and technology. It’s technical<br />
properties and softness is similar to Sensura and ComFortrel<br />
by Wellman, Inc, yet it can be dyed at 212°F/atmospheric<br />
pressure and potentially using less chemicals. ComFortrel by<br />
Poole claims that consumers have a high-performance<br />
low-pilling fiber with the comfort, dryness, and softness they<br />
expect.<br />
It is a breathable, moisture management, feel-good fiber. By<br />
pushing perspiration away from the skin and to the clothing<br />
surface for evaporation, dampness is repelled from the skin.<br />
Skin temperature doesn’t fluctuate the way it would with wet<br />
apparel, keeping body temperature performing at its best and<br />
resulting in anapparel that dries considerably faster than<br />
cotton and regular polyester. It is atmospherically dyeable<br />
resulting in deeper dye penetration; the co-polymer technology<br />
enables darker shades, brighter colours, enhanced colourfastness<br />
over standard polyester or cotton and less heat is<br />
needed during the dyeing cycle. At recommended finishing<br />
temperature, fibers are not stiffened, and the end product is a<br />
soft, drapable fabric that uses less energy, less water, and less<br />
dye in the process. In addition to durability it has superb<br />
shape retention, wash after wash. It is a unique fast-drying<br />
fiber – resistant to shrinking, fading, and wrinkling – and ideal<br />
for numerous markets, including hosiery, activewear, and<br />
sportswear.<br />
Structure of polyester fabric<br />
designed to trap pollen<br />
Polyester (PES) fabrics developed by Teijin Frontier Co Ltd for use in lace curtains can trap twice<br />
as much pollen as existing products, claims the company based in Osaka, Japan. The company,<br />
part of the Tokyo-based Teijin Group, gives the fabric its pollen-trapping property by crimping<br />
the structure, rather than the more conventional technique of applying adhesive agents. As a<br />
result, the functionality is not impaired by washing, which readily removes any trapped pollen.<br />
Being a PES, moreover, the fabric dries quickly. Finally, in order to meet the needs of interior<br />
applications, the fabric has a cotton-like texture.<br />
<strong>25</strong><br />
March/April 2013 March/April 2013