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March/April 2013<br />

March/April 2013


TEXNews 06<br />

Cover Story – Groz-Beckert 26<br />

Happenings 30<br />

Corporate Highlights 32<br />

Articles<br />

Treatment of Textile Waste Water<br />

by Hammad Ghaffar, Sana J. Ansari, Ehsan Ali 54<br />

Fiber Classifying System<br />

by Dr. Guntram Kugler, Anwar-ul-Haq 60<br />

Types of Coating Chemicals used in Technical Textiles<br />

by Engr. Zeeshan Feroze 64<br />

Reports<br />

COVITEX 2013 68<br />

MEGATECH Pakistan 2013 71<br />

Romper suit to protect against sudden infant death 72<br />

Textile Asia 2013 74<br />

Texprocess 2013: New technologies for innovative sportswear 79<br />

TEXEvents 80<br />

March/April2013 March/April 2013


06 07<br />

Canadian government<br />

eliminates<br />

tariffs on<br />

baby clothes<br />

The Government of Canada has removed tariffs on<br />

imports of baby clothes in its bid to reduce the up to<br />

40 percent difference in Canadian and the US retail<br />

prices. The move, announced as a part of the 2013<br />

Federal Budget, also eliminates import tariffs on most<br />

sports equipment.<br />

The Budget expects that wholesalers, distributors<br />

and retailers to pass on the savings in import tariffs to<br />

end-consumers. The Government, in consultation<br />

with various consumer forums and the Retail Council<br />

of Canada, will keep a watch on the impact of the<br />

tariff cuts on Canadian retail prices.<br />

Finance Minister Jim Flaherty called the removal of<br />

duties on baby clothes as a test case to see whether<br />

it results in a reduction in price gap between the US<br />

and Canadian retail prices.<br />

The removal of tariffs on baby clothes applies to<br />

babies’ garments made from cotton, synthetic fibres,<br />

wool, other textile materials, as well as fine animal<br />

hair, and would be enforced from April 1, 2013.<br />

The Government’s announcement follows a Senate<br />

report that sought to answer why the prices in<br />

Canada are up to 40 percent more for some<br />

consumer goods compared to what their neighbours<br />

pay across the southern border. The abolition of<br />

tariffs on baby clothes and sports equipment will<br />

together cost Ca$ 76 million a year to the<br />

Government.<br />

However, the Budget also increased the duties on<br />

imported goods from over 70 countries, including<br />

China and India, which is expected to cost Ca$ 330<br />

million extra per annum in terms of retail price to<br />

Canadian consumers.<br />

March/April2013 March/April 2013


Pakistan increases<br />

2013-14 cotton<br />

production target<br />

08 09<br />

Authorities in Pakistan have applied for duty-free<br />

exports to the European market under the EU's<br />

Generalised System of Preferences Plus (GSP+)<br />

scheme.<br />

The scheme, which will be effective for ten years from<br />

1st January 2014, offers reduced or zero tariff rates<br />

for developing countries that fulfill its criteria. To<br />

qualify, exports of the applicant country should<br />

account for less than 2% of the EU's total GSP<br />

imports, and the country should not be declared as a<br />

middle or high middle income country by the World<br />

Bank.<br />

In addition it also has to prove that it abides by 27<br />

international conventions on human rights, labour<br />

rights, environment, narcotics control and good<br />

governance. Sources at Pakistan's ministry of commerce<br />

say the country has ratified all the conventions,<br />

but could face issues on their implementation.<br />

The process will take eight to ten months, initially<br />

Pakistan applies for<br />

duty-free exports<br />

to the EU<br />

before the European Commission (EC), followed by<br />

the European Parliament for approval, said Lars-Gunnar<br />

Wigemark, EU Ambassador to Pakistan.<br />

Currently Pakistan enjoys tariff preferences under the<br />

temporary EU Autonomous Trade Preferential<br />

Arrangement for 75 items - most of which are textiles,<br />

clothing and footwear. This arrangement stands until<br />

31 December 2013.<br />

Gohar Ejaz, group leader and ex-chairman of the All<br />

Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA), told<br />

just-style that if Pakistan was granted GSP+, the<br />

country's textile and clothing exports could nearly<br />

double to US$22bn in three years from the current<br />

level of US$12.4bn.<br />

Pakistan is the fifth largest textile and clothing<br />

supplier to the EU with an annual trade volume of<br />

over EUR 8bn. Textile and clothing exports rose 8.4%<br />

in the first seven months of fiscal 2013.<br />

Pakistan’s Ministry of Textile Industry has increased<br />

the cotton production target for the forthcoming<br />

season to 14.1 million bales, up from the ongoing<br />

season’s target of 13.3 million bales, the Ministry<br />

informed the Senate Standing Committee on Textile<br />

and Production.<br />

The estimations for forthcoming season’s output<br />

have been derived on the basis of ongoing season’s<br />

acreage-output estimates, where country is expected<br />

to yield 13.3 million bales of cotton from seven million<br />

acres.<br />

Next season, the cultivation acreage is expected to<br />

rise to around eight million acres to deliver an output<br />

of 14.1 million bales, Cotton Commissioner Dr. Khalid<br />

Abdullah informed the meeting headed by Senator<br />

Maula Baksh Chandio.<br />

Water crisis during sowing period and floods and<br />

rains in the latter part of the crop season, damaged<br />

Pakistan’s Ministry of Textile Industry has allocated Pk<br />

Rs. 179 million to construct a cotton ginning research<br />

institute in Multan. The setting up of the research<br />

institute is a part of the Government’s aim to modernize<br />

and increase the productivity of ginning factories<br />

in the country.<br />

Cotton Development Commissioner of Pakistan, Dr.<br />

Khalid Abdullah told that, “We will be constructing a<br />

ginning research institute in Multan to increase the<br />

productivity of the ginning sector in the country.” He<br />

informed, “Pakistan’s Textile Ministry has allocated Pk<br />

Rs. 179 million for the construction of the ginning<br />

research institute.”<br />

around one million bales of cotton during the ongoing<br />

season, causing the Government to set the current<br />

season’s output target below previous year’s actual<br />

output of 13.59 million bales, Dr. Abdullah said.<br />

Condemning the Government for its gas provision<br />

policy for textile industries, Textile Industry Secretary<br />

Dr. Waqar Masood said 434 textile units with captive<br />

power plants get 2<strong>25</strong> million cubic feet gas per day<br />

(mmcfd) from the Government. These plants generate<br />

around 680 megawatts (MW) power, but the<br />

electricity so generated is used by these units for<br />

their personalized consumption, without making any<br />

contribution to the national grid station.<br />

The Secretary suggested that instead of providing<br />

gas to these units, it should be provided to four<br />

Lahore-based power plants, which are more efficient<br />

and have ability to generate more power. The cost of<br />

power-generation at these plants would be much less<br />

and would benefit the general public, he added.<br />

Cotton ginning<br />

research<br />

institute in Pakistan<br />

Talking about the benefits of the new research<br />

institute to cotton ginners, he says, “The ginning<br />

research institute will provide training to the workers<br />

in the ginning factories. The research institute will<br />

also work on modernizing and increasing the productivity<br />

of 1200 cotton ginning factories in Pakistan.”<br />

The location for the construction of the ginning<br />

institute has already been finalized. “We have<br />

finalized the location for the construction of the<br />

research institute which will be provided by the<br />

Cotton Research Institute in Multan,” said Dr. Dilbaagh<br />

Muhammad, Director of Cotton Research<br />

Institute-Pakistan.<br />

March/April2013 March/April 2013


10 11<br />

BASF To<br />

Reorganize<br />

Leather And<br />

Textile<br />

Chemicals<br />

Business<br />

BASF Germany has announced plans to reorganize its Leather and Textile Chemicals business unit<br />

(BU) to concentrate on the Asia-Pacific region and on high-value-adding applications.<br />

Leather Chemicals will focus on core technologies for the automotive industry and premium leather<br />

segment, and Textile Chemicals will focus on value-adding steps such as printing and finishing and<br />

solutions for manufacturing premium textile items.<br />

BASF will establish a global innovation center for its Leather and Textile Chemicals BU in China,<br />

which is its main growth market. The center will be located within the BASF Innovation Campus in<br />

Shanghai and will be part of the R&D Innovation Cooperation.<br />

In addition, the company will eliminate 65 positions globally including 29 in Ludwigshafen, Germany,<br />

to adjust to the BU's new setup. However, BASF reports it will create approximately 23 positions to<br />

support the anticipated growth in China, India and Turkey.<br />

"BASF strives to remain the preferred partner of the leather and textile industries for reliable and<br />

innovative chemical solutions," said François Desné, senior vice president, Leather and Textile<br />

Chemicals global business unit, BASF. "We are reshaping our business setup to strengthen our<br />

long-term ability to compete in a rapidly changing market environment."<br />

“Anti-Rape” underthings<br />

In the wake of the horrific gang rape in Delhi last December, Indian women are taking to the streets<br />

in protest and even creating products to help prevent rape. Three engineering students have come<br />

up with anti-rape lingerie that will literally shock an assailant with electricity if they attack someone<br />

who is wearing it. The underthings, named SHE (Society Harnessing Equipment) are also equipped<br />

with GPS and the ability to text emergency services and the girl’s parents to alert them of her<br />

location and situation. The trio created the electro-shock underwear because they felt helpless that<br />

the government wasn’t doing enough to protect women.<br />

Currently in Delhi, 96% of women feel unsafe going out into the city at night and fear being raped.<br />

This shocking statistic is only the more shocking when you delve into the state of affairs or read more<br />

about the very recent gang rape catastrophe. While protests and political activism are helping bring<br />

about new laws that prosecute sexual assaulters, many rapes still go unreported.<br />

Feeling helpless even with the new laws, Manisha Mohan, Niladri Basu Bal, and Rimpi Tripathi,<br />

engineering students from SRM University in Chennai took matters into their own hands to create<br />

SHE, a wearable device that helps stop rape. The underwear is equipped with sensors and an<br />

electric shock circuit board, which is integrated into the bosom area. Surveys have shown that most<br />

women are first attacked near her chest, so this seems to be the best place to place the devices.<br />

When an attacker comes after the girl, the sensors go off and the assaulter gets a shock of 3,800 kV.<br />

Also equipped with GPS and text messaging, the device sends a text to emergency services and the<br />

girl’s parents along with location data.<br />

The product is still under development and the two girl and guy team are working on using new<br />

textiles and integration so it can all be washable. They would also like to integrate the wearable with<br />

a smart phone, Bluetooth and infrared. Jezebel makes an incredible point in that while this anti-rape<br />

device is incredible, it also only affects the symptoms of a much larger problem – the victimization of<br />

women. Major cultural shifts need to happen, and quickly<br />

The reorganization is expected to be completed by the end of 2014.<br />

March/April 2013 March/April 2013


12<br />

13<br />

Greenpeace demands<br />

toxic-free fashion<br />

“Today we remember those who<br />

are suffering from industrial water<br />

pollution and celebrate the<br />

bravery, passion and persistence<br />

of the people around the world<br />

working tirelessly to create a<br />

toxic-free tomorrow,” said Tianjie<br />

Ma, Head of Greenpeace East<br />

Asia’s Toxic Campaign.<br />

“Just last month the Chinese<br />

government acknowledged for the<br />

first time the existence of 'cancer<br />

villages' linked to pollution from<br />

hazardous chemicals, and<br />

signaled their willingness to<br />

address toxic water pollution in an<br />

open and transparent manner,”<br />

said Ma.<br />

“Industry also has a crucial role to<br />

play in creating a toxic-free future,<br />

and as one of the major contributors<br />

toward toxic pollution the<br />

textile industry needs to both take<br />

responsibility for the issue and<br />

work to champion the solutions.”<br />

“Since launching in July 2011, the<br />

people-powered Detox campaign<br />

has managed to convince seventeen<br />

international brands including<br />

Zara, Levi’s and Victoria’s Secret<br />

to commit to eliminate all hazardous<br />

chemicals from their supply<br />

chains and products. Around the<br />

world a groundswell of fashionistas,<br />

designers and activists has<br />

joined together to demand clothes<br />

with a story we can be proud of.”<br />

“Together will continue to expose<br />

these big fashion brands and<br />

ensure they deliver on their public<br />

promises until World Water Day<br />

becomes something we celebrate<br />

rather than lament,” said Ma.<br />

Greenpeace’s Detox campaign<br />

demands fashion brands commit<br />

to zero discharge of all hazardous<br />

chemicals by 2020 and require<br />

their suppliers to disclose all<br />

releases of toxic chemicals from<br />

their facilities to communities at<br />

the site of the water pollution.<br />

Researchers at KTH<br />

Royal Institute of<br />

Technology have<br />

discovered an antibacterial<br />

polymer that can be used in<br />

everyday products such as<br />

sportswear, diapers and bandages,<br />

without causing resistant bacteria.<br />

"We got around the problem of resistant bacteria<br />

by creating an antibacterial surface in which polymer<br />

binds with cellulose," says KTH chemistry researcher<br />

Josefin Illergård. “We have managed to find an<br />

antibacterial polymer that attaches stably to cellulose<br />

and therefore cannot be released into the environment,”<br />

says Josefin Illergård, a chemistry researcher<br />

at KTH.<br />

The discovery could be an important breakthrough in<br />

the search for environmentally-friendly ways to control<br />

bacteria while preventing antibiotic resistance and<br />

resistant bacteria.<br />

Illergård says the team’s discovery is based on<br />

cellulose fibres embedded in a polymer, which kills<br />

bacteria. Cellulose is the most common organic<br />

substance in nature and the primary structural<br />

component of plant cell walls. The active polymer is<br />

so strongly bonded to the fibres of the cellulose<br />

material that it does not loosen or leak into the<br />

environment via water.<br />

Antibacterial agents such as triclosan and silver ions<br />

are commonly used in sportswear and shoes to<br />

Eco-safe<br />

antibacterial<br />

fibre<br />

discovered<br />

remove unpleasant<br />

odors from bacteria<br />

formation. But such<br />

biocides leak into the<br />

environment when the<br />

treated garments or surfaces<br />

are washed, raising the risk that<br />

bacteria will gradually become<br />

resistant to their effect.“If someone uses a<br />

cloth to wipe a countertop treated with<br />

antibacterial agents, and that cloth is rinsed in the<br />

sink, those substances are then spread further<br />

through the drain and into the environment where they<br />

can contaminate soil and water and give rise to<br />

bacterial resistance,” Illergård says. The material may<br />

have applications in water purification. She says that<br />

bacteria must come in direct contact with the material<br />

for the antibacterial process to work.<br />

Because polymer has a positive charge and bacteria<br />

a negative charge, the new material actually attracts<br />

bacteria, she says. The material does not contain<br />

large amounts of polymer; and only non-toxic<br />

nitrogen oxides remain after it is burned. Nevertheless,<br />

the team’s goal for the future is to continue the<br />

research and try to replace the antibacterial polymer<br />

with an entirely renewable material.<br />

Illergård says the material could be ideal for simple<br />

water treatment in the future. “What if water could be<br />

purified in an environmentally friendly manner by our<br />

material, instead of just strainers?” she asks. “Many<br />

lives would be saved, and the material could be<br />

placed directly on the fire and burned after use.”<br />

March/April 2013 March/April 2013


14 15<br />

Top American Retailers<br />

penalized for falsely labeling<br />

Amazon.com, Leon Max, Macy’s, and Sears have agreed to pay a combined $1.26 million in fines after the<br />

Federal Trade Commission charged them with marketing products as bamboo when they were actually derived<br />

from rayon. While so-called bamboo textiles are often promoted as environmentally friendly, the chemical-intensive<br />

process for manufacturing rayon—even when it’s made from bamboo—is far from “green,” according to<br />

the federal agency, which sent a business alert in 2009 advising manufacturers and sellers not to label or<br />

advertise a textile as bamboo if it wasn’t made directly of bamboo fiber (“rayon” or “rayon made from bamboo”<br />

are the preferred terms).<br />

According to the FTC’s complaints, each of the four companies violated the Textile Products Identification Act<br />

and the FTC’s Textile Rules by claiming, without qualification, that the textile fiber in certain retail and private-label<br />

products was bamboo. Amazon.com, for instance, described a “Summer Infant Crib Sheet” as “100 percent<br />

organic bamboo.” The retailer also sold a product called the “Scene Weavers Pickles Bamboo Knit Garden<br />

Stripe Baby Blanket,” which it labeled “100 percent knit bamboo.”<br />

The FTC alleged that Leon Max, which does business as Max Studio, sold a “Silk & Bamboo Broadcloth Shirred<br />

Shell,” which it claimed was made of a “delicate and eco-friendly bamboo and silk fabric” comprised of “65<br />

percent bamboo, 35 percent silk.” In addition, it sold a “Football Tee” that was labeled “50 percent bamboo, 50<br />

percent cotton.”<br />

Macy’s allegedly advertised and sold retail products designated as “bamboo” and “bamboo fiber” on their<br />

textile labels. One product description for the “2(x)ist Contour Campus Pouch Brief,” for example, stated that it<br />

offered, “plenty of cool comfort and support…crafted in a cotton-bamboo blend for unbeatable performance.”<br />

Sears allegedly claimed that some sheet sets sold in its stores and on its websites were made of “Pure Fiber<br />

100 Percent Bamboo.” The retailer also sold a “Ty Pennington Style Bamboo Sheet Set,” which it characterized<br />

as “55 percent bamboo/45 percent cotton.”<br />

“When attempting to appeal to environmentally conscious consumers, companies need to ensure they don’t<br />

cross the line into misleading labeling and advertising,” Charles Harwood, acting director of the FTC’s Bureau<br />

of Consumer Protection, says in a statement. “If a textile is made of rayon, sellers need to say that, even if<br />

bamboo was used somewhere along the line in the production process.”<br />

Aside from the civil penalties each company has agreed to pay, the proposed orders settling the FTC’s charges<br />

prohibit the companies from failing to properly identify the fiber content of the “bamboo” textiles they sell,<br />

including products sold or marketed as antimicrobial, antibacterial, or antifungal.<br />

“Healthy Seas”<br />

Discarded<br />

Fishing Nets<br />

into Socks<br />

World’s oceans are full of trash and debris, but now<br />

a new consortium of European companies and<br />

NGOs have a plan in place to collect that debris<br />

and recycle it. Aided by the European Centre for<br />

Nature Conservation (ECNC), plastics<br />

manufacturer Aquafil and sock maker Star Sock<br />

have announced a new initiative that will collect<br />

debris, especially fishing nets, and transform into<br />

new nylon for textiles. Since 2011, The ‘Healthy<br />

Seas, a Journey from Waste to Wear’ initiative has<br />

already collected 16,000 tons of pre- and<br />

post-consumer waste and turned it into new<br />

polymers and yarns.<br />

Every year, approximately 640,000 tons of fishing<br />

nets are abandoned in the oceans, accounting for<br />

one-tenth of all marine litter. The Healthy Seas<br />

initiative aims not only to clear the oceans of this<br />

and more debris, but to turn it all into something<br />

useful. Currently, the initiative is developing best<br />

practices in the North, Adriatic and Mediterranean<br />

seas, so the project can be rolled out worldwide in<br />

coming years. They are also identifying methods to<br />

discourage abandoning fishing equipment and<br />

encouraging responsible use. Finally the group will<br />

share their findings with governments and other<br />

organizations to encourage best practices.<br />

The bulk of their work though is to physically collect<br />

and recycle the ocean debris. To this end, Aquafil<br />

created a new product, Econyl, a nylon product<br />

from recycled plastics. Econly can be used in a<br />

variety of applications, including fiber for synthetic<br />

carpet, textiles for apparel and for injected molded<br />

plastics. In 2012, the material was made using 30%<br />

post-consumer waste collected from the oceans,<br />

but this year in 2013, they will bump up the<br />

ocean-collected recycled content to 50%. For every<br />

10,000 tons of Econyl produced, the initiative will<br />

eliminate 11,000 tons of waste, save 70,000 barrels<br />

of oil and avoid 41,000 tons of CO2 emissions.<br />

March/April 2013 March/April 2013


16 17<br />

Industry opposes 2<br />

percent sales tax on<br />

domestic sales<br />

Opposing the imposition of 2.0<br />

percent sales tax on domestic<br />

sales of textile sector of the<br />

country by abolishing the zero<br />

rating sales tax, President of<br />

Multan Chamber of Commerce<br />

and Industry (MCCI) Muhammad<br />

Khan Saddozai described a blow<br />

to the industry and detrimental to<br />

the business community.<br />

He said, textile industry is already<br />

passing through severe economic<br />

stress due to power and gas load<br />

The State Bank of Pakistan has<br />

decided to increase rate of<br />

refinance under the Export<br />

Finance Scheme effective from<br />

April 1, said a circular issued by<br />

the bank.<br />

The refinance rate was increased<br />

to 8.4 percent from 8.2 percent<br />

indicating the future trend of<br />

interest rate. Though, the increase<br />

shedding, high prices of raw<br />

material, depreciation of currency,<br />

higher inflation.<br />

MCCI Chief said that government<br />

should expand the tax-net instead<br />

of imposing taxes on the existing<br />

tax-payers. Government should<br />

send notices to identified 300,000<br />

biggest tax evaders in a bid to<br />

broaden the narrow tax base and<br />

reduce reliance of the country on<br />

foreign loans.<br />

is not very significant but it<br />

indicates that the State Bank<br />

might adopt tightening of monetary<br />

policy in future. The SBP said<br />

the commercial banks will ensure<br />

that where financing facilities are<br />

extended by them to the exporters<br />

for availing refinance facilities<br />

under the EFS, their maximum<br />

margin or spread does not exceed<br />

one percent per annum. The<br />

He included that FBR chairman<br />

had admitted that it was simply a<br />

'nightmare' and shocking to see<br />

highly narrowed tax base as only<br />

750,000 were registered in the<br />

income tax system out of 180<br />

million population, only 100<br />

companies pay 82 percent of<br />

sales tax and tax paid by one<br />

tobacco company is more than<br />

what whole salaried class pay to<br />

the national tax revenues.<br />

SBP raises<br />

export refinance rate<br />

revised markup rate is not applicable<br />

on currently outstanding loans<br />

availed under the EFS. The<br />

reimbursement of mark-up rate<br />

benefit to exporters, on excess<br />

performance under Part-II of the<br />

scheme will be adjusted accordingly<br />

keeping in view the revised<br />

mark-up rates, said the SBP<br />

circular.<br />

Germany to help<br />

investors for<br />

investing in Pakistan<br />

German Ambassador to Pakistan, Cyrill Jean Nunn said that his government was ready to provide necessary<br />

help to German investors for making investment in Pakistan. Addressing the business community at<br />

Islamabad Chamber of Commerce and Industry (ICCI), he said that there were vast prospects of mutual<br />

cooperation between the two countries to further strengthen the trade relations.<br />

He also discussed a range of subjects related to the bilateral relationship between Germany and Pakistan,<br />

including the cultural, political and economic dimensions. He said that among the major sectors, Germany<br />

works with Pakistan in sectors like energy, health and governance.<br />

"Germany considers trade the best form of cooperation between countries", he said.<br />

He observed that within the European Union, Germany is the largest trading partner of Pakistan and said<br />

that Germany has an interest in seeing the EU engage with Pakistan.<br />

Mr. Cyrill said that Pakistan and Germany are enjoying balanced volume of trade that stood around $2.2billion.<br />

He said that there is huge demand of Pakistani textile products in German markets as well as he<br />

identified tourism as a potential sector of mutual interest and said that Pakistan should also focus this area<br />

to promote tourism.<br />

Speaking on the occasion, Zafar Bakhtawari, President ICCI said that Pakistan and Germany are enjoying<br />

historically good relations, thus, more German companies should come Pakistan and make investment in<br />

the areas of their interests. ICCI President said that Germany is meeting its energy needs by vastly using<br />

wind technology and solar electricity systems installed all across the country in addition to hydel resources.<br />

Pakistan presents a huge scope for German investors to set up projects of producing alternate energy, he<br />

added. He thanked Germany for its support in getting enhanced market access for Pakistani products in<br />

the EU and appreciated the positive role of Germany in restoring peace in Afghanistan. He said that any<br />

investment made in Pakistan will automatically find its way to the regional countries, which goes to the<br />

extent of Central Asian States.<br />

March/April2013 March/April 2013


“Dirty White<br />

Gold,” a Film<br />

exposing<br />

Cotton Farming’s<br />

Dark Side<br />

18 19<br />

Journalist Leah Borromeo’s documentary-in-the-making,<br />

“The Cotton Film: Dirty<br />

White Gold,” follows the life of cotton from<br />

seed to store, tracing who it touches and<br />

how their lives are effected. The film, which<br />

is in the funding stages, brings the journalist<br />

to the cotton fields of India, where<br />

farmers committing suicide has become a<br />

commonality. The film uncovers the real<br />

truth behind cotton, and the utter importance<br />

of buying sustainable fashion.<br />

Borromeo asks the question- when you<br />

bag a bargain, who pays for it? The answer<br />

traces back to the source, to the cotton<br />

fields of India. Over 300,000 Indian cotton<br />

farmers have killed themselves to escape<br />

debt, making so little that they not only<br />

can’t provide for their families, but sink<br />

even further into debt the more they work.<br />

Many tragically have drank the very<br />

pesticides they spray onto their cotton<br />

crops to end their lives, and thus ending<br />

their cycle of poverty, overworking and<br />

debt.<br />

The film will also trace the cotton seed to<br />

the next level, to the factories and manufacturers<br />

that make the clothes we buy and<br />

wear everyday. From working conditions to<br />

environmental hazards to fair trade, the film<br />

will uncover it all, with the inquisitive and<br />

fearless Leah Borromeo at the helm.<br />

If Borromeo and her team raise funds<br />

through crowdfunding, a private foundating<br />

will match this amount, making the filmand<br />

Borromeo’s intense journey possible.<br />

With the work that she has already done,<br />

Borromeo shows us just how important it is<br />

to see where our clothing comes from- not<br />

just by visiting the sweatshops that we’ve<br />

all heard about, but to the source, the<br />

fields and farmers which are just as<br />

effected by our purchase of our favorite<br />

garments everyday.<br />

New Biomimetic<br />

Fiber, Inspired by<br />

Pine Cones, Keeps<br />

You Dryer Longer<br />

A new textile developed in the UK can make your workout a little less sweaty. Called Inotek, the process amps<br />

up textiles’ ability to absorb sweat, in effect pulling it away from the body- leaving you clean and dry. Developed<br />

by MMT Textiles, Inotek can benefit athletes, gym fanatics, and those moving from hot to cold environments.<br />

When most fabrics are hit with moisture, then absorb it, causing the fabric to swell. The fabric then becomes<br />

damp and heavy, locking in moisture and keeping it close to the body. INOTEK does the opposite. The structure<br />

of Inotek textiles are actually inspired by nature. Using the botanical structure of pine cones as a model, the<br />

textile mimics the cones’ response to moisture, which opens and closes with higher levels.<br />

As sweat migrates toward the fabric, the fibers in Inotek begin to close like a pine cone, keeping moisture out.<br />

To keep the fabric breathing, tiny air pockets open along the surface of the textile as moisture sets in. Contrasting<br />

to traditional fabrics like wool, an Inotek blend with wool will actually become 10 percent thinner in moisture<br />

laden conditions! Once dried out, the fibers bounce back to their original structure.<br />

With permeability and ventilation, Inotek textile products could help athletes keep cool after a long work out,<br />

without massive sweat stains. Even more beneficial, cold weather sports enthusiasts can keep drier when<br />

passing from ski slope to warm lodge and back out into the elements again.<br />

March/April2013 March/April 2013


20<br />

21<br />

Headscarves<br />

for cancer<br />

patients<br />

A Scottish textile company has developed a range of luxury headscarves designed to help cancer patients cope<br />

with the debilitating effects of chemotherapy. More than a way to conceal hair loss, Murray Hogarth’s “Asha”<br />

range features “micro-encapsulated” fabrics said to confer therapeutic benefits such as aromatherapy, ultraviolet<br />

protection, and thermoregulation. Created in tandem with Edinburgh’s Heriot-Watt University’s School of<br />

Textiles and Design, the silk turbans come in several finishes to suit different needs. The aromatherapy finish, for<br />

instance, incorporates tiny hard-shell capsules filled with scented oils such as aloe vera or lavender. Wearing<br />

the garment creates friction, which pops the capsules and releases a subtle fragrance.<br />

New Fabric Dyeing – fluid CO2, Not Water<br />

A Dutch company has unveiled what it believes to be the first<br />

commercial dyeing machine to replace water with supercritical<br />

carbon dioxide—a pressurized form of the gas with unusual<br />

liquid-like properties. Heated up to 31 degrees Celsius (88 degrees<br />

Fahrenheit) and pressurized to 74 bar, CO2 takes on the characteristics<br />

of both a liquid and a gas, allowing for the dissolution of compounds<br />

such as dyes. For DyeCoo Textile System’s purposes, CO2<br />

is heated to 120 degrees Celsius (248 degrees Fahrenheit) and<br />

pressurized to <strong>25</strong>0 bar. Behaving as both a solvent and a solute, the<br />

supercharged carbon dioxide penetrates textile fibers and disperses<br />

the preloaded dyes without extra chemical agents.<br />

Once the dyeing cycle is complete, the CO2 is gasified to recover the excess dye. Unburdened, the clean CO2<br />

cycles back into the dyeing vessel for reuse, a maneuver that saves energy, water, and the heavy metals that<br />

comprise much of the toxic runoff into our planet’s polluted waterways, according to DyeCoo.<br />

DyeCoo’s waterless innovation, which the company has branded DryDye, took 11 years to develop. Its parent<br />

company, FeyeCon, previously engineered scCO2 systems for industrial applications, including chemical<br />

extraction in pharmaceutical production.<br />

A wax finish, on the other hand, melts to absorb heat in high temperatures. The reverse happens when the<br />

mercury drops: the material resolidifies, sending out warmth instead. Other finishes deliver vitamins and moisturizers,<br />

any of which can be customized to fulfill specific requirements.<br />

“Smart textiles are a fast-developing sector that offers enormous potential within the healthcare industry,” says<br />

Alison Harley, head of Heriot-Watt University’s School of Textiles and Design. “This collaboration showcases our<br />

close work with industry, including many small and medium size textile businesses in Scotland, to help them<br />

find ways to add value and grow their business.<br />

Permanently<br />

self-cleaning yarns<br />

A super-hydrophobic filament yarn with a permanent, built-in self-cleaning effect is the result of collaboration<br />

between three German organizations. Deggendorf-based TWD Fibres GmbH has worked with the Institute for<br />

Textile Technology and Process Engineering (ITV) and the Institute of Textile Chemistry and Chemical Fibers<br />

(ITCF), both in Denkendorf, Germany, to develop a spinning process that the partners claim leaves the yarn<br />

with a rough and water-repellent surface. Such surfaces aim to mimic the leaves of a lotus plant, which repel<br />

raindrops causing them to roll off, picking up and carrying away dirt and microorganisms on the way.<br />

The process isn’t without its limitations, however. DyeCoo is currently only able to dye scoured (or prewashed)<br />

polyester fabric, although the company notes that it’s working on a version that will dye unscoured fabric, as<br />

well as reactive dyes for cellulosic textiles made from plants.<br />

March/April 2013 March/April 2013


22<br />

Sewing threads and<br />

zips kill bed bugs<br />

Sewing threads and zips can now be treated with an agent that is fatal to bed bugs, but harmless to humans<br />

and pets, according to the chemical's UK-based developer.<br />

23<br />

Coats plc of Uxbridge says its Insectiban treatment is based on naturally occurring, durable plant extracts and<br />

oils. Users can apply the treatment to any size or colour of thread without affecting the sewing performance.<br />

Further, Insectiban can be used in all European and Asian territories, and will be introduced to the US market<br />

during 2013. It does not require regulatory approval, because it is based on natural extracts, a company<br />

spokesperson confirmed.<br />

AD<br />

TEXtalks International has come to notice some person/institutes/organizations are propagating the rumors that Mr. Yousaf Fareed; (Published &<br />

Editor-in-Chief TEXtalks International) was their employee in the past and was serving for them and made some financial frauds with them. These<br />

gossips are continuously broadcasting by some person directly and indirectly in the textile sector to taint the status and repute of our esteemed<br />

client Mr. Yousaf Fareed and to degrade the repute of TEXtalks International.<br />

We inform you with full confidence that such person/institutes/organizations rumors are just proliferating to worsen the status of our esteemed<br />

client.<br />

TEXtalks International & Mr. Yousaf Fareed had neither concern nor such sort of connection/relation with the fraudulent person/organization.<br />

TEXtalks International informed our valuable clients beware of such culprits/perpetrators/wrongdoers.<br />

Also, any type of dealing (financial/marketing/advertisement/news/articles/whatsoever) in the label of Mr. Yousaf Fareed or TEXtalks International<br />

with such scoundrels will be treated fictitious and TEXtalks International will not be responsible for their actions.<br />

We holds the right of strict judicial/legal action against such offenders. Also, strict legal action is under consideration against such person/institutes/organizations.<br />

These delinquents are hereby also warned to quit their deeds using the name of Mr. Yousaf Fareed/TEXtalks International<br />

immediately otherwise they will be charged/punished by court of law and strict action will be taken by concerned authorities against such crooks.<br />

All relevant organizations/companies/institutions etc. are hereby requested to please contact directly to the office authorized persons after<br />

thorough satisfaction.<br />

Thanking you,<br />

Syed Khalid Javed Bukhari<br />

Advocate Supreme Court of Pakistan<br />

Legal Advisor TEXtalks International<br />

khalidbukharisolicitor@gmail.com<br />

Ph: +92 300 2030050<br />

ATTENTION please…!!!<br />

March/April2013 March/April 2013


24<br />

A co-polymer<br />

polyester<br />

fibre with<br />

premium<br />

comfort and<br />

moisture<br />

management<br />

properties<br />

ComFortrel by Poole is a new, engineered co-polymer polyester<br />

that embraces chemistry and technology. It’s technical<br />

properties and softness is similar to Sensura and ComFortrel<br />

by Wellman, Inc, yet it can be dyed at 212°F/atmospheric<br />

pressure and potentially using less chemicals. ComFortrel by<br />

Poole claims that consumers have a high-performance<br />

low-pilling fiber with the comfort, dryness, and softness they<br />

expect.<br />

It is a breathable, moisture management, feel-good fiber. By<br />

pushing perspiration away from the skin and to the clothing<br />

surface for evaporation, dampness is repelled from the skin.<br />

Skin temperature doesn’t fluctuate the way it would with wet<br />

apparel, keeping body temperature performing at its best and<br />

resulting in anapparel that dries considerably faster than<br />

cotton and regular polyester. It is atmospherically dyeable<br />

resulting in deeper dye penetration; the co-polymer technology<br />

enables darker shades, brighter colours, enhanced colourfastness<br />

over standard polyester or cotton and less heat is<br />

needed during the dyeing cycle. At recommended finishing<br />

temperature, fibers are not stiffened, and the end product is a<br />

soft, drapable fabric that uses less energy, less water, and less<br />

dye in the process. In addition to durability it has superb<br />

shape retention, wash after wash. It is a unique fast-drying<br />

fiber – resistant to shrinking, fading, and wrinkling – and ideal<br />

for numerous markets, including hosiery, activewear, and<br />

sportswear.<br />

Structure of polyester fabric<br />

designed to trap pollen<br />

Polyester (PES) fabrics developed by Teijin Frontier Co Ltd for use in lace curtains can trap twice<br />

as much pollen as existing products, claims the company based in Osaka, Japan. The company,<br />

part of the Tokyo-based Teijin Group, gives the fabric its pollen-trapping property by crimping<br />

the structure, rather than the more conventional technique of applying adhesive agents. As a<br />

result, the functionality is not impaired by washing, which readily removes any trapped pollen.<br />

Being a PES, moreover, the fabric dries quickly. Finally, in order to meet the needs of interior<br />

applications, the fabric has a cotton-like texture.<br />

<strong>25</strong><br />

March/April 2013 March/April 2013

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