American World Traveler Summer 2017 Issue

China Canada’s 150th Buenos Aires Cruises Hotels & Resorts 

A M E R I C A N 

W O R L D 

Traveler 

Summer 2017 

A New Romance With 

C U B A 

Already 

15 

Years! 

Come With Us & See The World!

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Publisher 

Michael Morcos 

Editor-in-chief 

Greg James 

Contributing Editor 

David J. Cox 

Graphic Department 

Al Cheong 

Advertising Department 

Leo Santini 

Welcome to World Traveler 

In this issue, we start our travels by celebrating 

Canada’s 150th birthday; first 

we head for adventure and the beautiful 

natural setting of Golden, BC, before 

going to the wonderful prairie city of 

Winnipeg, Manitoba. Next stop is Southern 

Ontario for some fabulous bird watching. So 

far away but so close to Canadians, we commemorate 

the fallen at Vimy Ridge, France, 

and lastly we relax at two great Charlevoix 

hotels. 

Heading south of the border we find some of 

the best Foodie places New York City has to 

offer before we mosey into the quaint Texan 

town of Fredericksburg. Next in the USA we 

go bask in the warm, sunny Florida sun for 

some of the best this state has to offer. From 

here, we head for relaxing adventures in 

Cuba, the ‘Rising Star’. While there, we take 

a wonderful cruise that circumnavigates this 

great island. Still in the Caribbean, we fly out 

to the Dominican Republic and kick back at 

the ultra-luxurious Puntacana Resort & Club. 

Continuing in The Americas, we now head to 

Buenos Aires to partake in the best this 

worldly city has to offer. 

Next we jet off to Melbourne to taste its wonderful 

cuisine, including the exceptional 

Vegan restaurants offered. Our whirl-wind 

tour continues as we now find ourselves in 

Asia and travel to the four corners of 

‘Beautiful China’ to discover the fascinating, 

historic and important land and maritime silk 

routes that connected this land to the world. 

While in China, we also visit Hong Kong to 

discover the ‘Heritage, Arts, Culture & 

Cuisine’ of this exciting city. To conclude our 

trip in Asia we go to northern India for a 

motorcycle ride through the picturesque 

mountainous region of Leh-Ladakh. 

In Africa, we find ‘The Urban Renaissance of 

Johannesburg’. In Europe we find the best 

Turkey has to offer in the field of medical 

treatments, and finally in Spain we raise a 

toast to the wonderful grape harvesting season. 

Happy Travels! 

Marketing Department 

Tania Tassone 

Distribution 

Royce Dillon 

Senior Travel Writers: 

Susan Campbell 

Steve Gillick 

Regular Contributors: 

Habeeb Salloum 

Jennifer Merrick 

Natalie Ayotte 

Johanna Read 

Ron Paquet 

Cherie Delory 

Alan G. luke 

Jasmine Morcos 

Olivia Balsinger 

Ilona Kauremszky 

Mike Cohen 

Mathieu Morcos 

Gregory Caltabanis 

Rohit Agarwal 

Contributors This Issue: 

Jessica Percy-Campbell 

Daniel Smajovits 

Disclaimer: World Traveler has made every effort to 

verify that the information provided in this publication 

is as accurate as possible. However, we accept 

no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconvenience 

sustained by anyone resulting from the information 

contained herein nor for any information 

provided by our advertisers. 

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Crusing section 

47 

Destination Features 

Cuba 8 

Golden, BC 12 

Buenos Aires 14 

Beautiful China Section 34 

Winnipeg 44 

Vimy Memorial, France 60 

Birding in Ontario 62 

NYC Foodie 74 

Fredericksburg, TX 76 

Canada’s 150th 

Cruise News 

Cruising Cuba with Celestyal’s Crystal 

Inaugural Voyages 

Cruising with Tully Luxury Travel 

Stay & Play - 64 

Golden, BC 12 Winnipeg 44 Vimy Memorial 60 Birding in Ontario 62 Charlevoix Hotels 70 

Around the World 16 

Around the World

8 

Adventures in Holguin Province 

CUBA 

Article & Photography by Steve Gillick

9 

Christopher Columbus slept here! Holguin Province in Cuba’s southeast 

has three sites that claim to be the place where Admiral 

Christopher Columbus landed his three ships; the Nina, the Pinta and 

the Santa Maria. In Guardalavaca, there is a statue of Columbus by the 

ocean. In Gibara, tour guides tell the tale of the three ships being stranded in 

a storm and forced to settle in that area for a number of weeks. 

But in Cayo Bariay, archeological evidence combined with excerpts from 

Columbus’ diary about the beaches, the shape of the coastline and an Indian 

Village, all seem to have convinced historians that this was indeed the place 

where the expedition landed. 

see follwing page 

American World Traveler Summer 2017

10 

And today at Cayo Bariay there are four 

sites that pay homage to the arrivals in the 

New World and their effects on the indigenous 

Taino people. The first is a recreation 

of a Spanish fort from 1492 where two soldiers 

would have lived and safeguarded 

the area. The second site features a monument 

known as ‘Punta de Sabaneta’, or 

‘Encounter of Two Cultures’, that was built 

for the 500th anniversary of Columbus’ 

landing in 1492. A reproduction of 

European ruins in the shape of the prow of 

a ship, symbolically heads toward a circle 

of red earth-colored statues that embody 

the values and beliefs of the Taino and 

Guanajatabeyes people, who lived in the 

area for 10,000 years before Columbus’ 

arrival. The statues, reminiscent of the Moai 

on Easter Island, represent community, 

family, good luck, rain, sun, fire, bad luck, 

fertility, tobacco and Yaya, the god of gods. 

A third site at Cayo Bairya lies under a 

thatched roof at the edge of a cliff overlooking 

Holguin’s coast line of sandy 

beaches, rugged rocks, crashing waves 

and smooth, calm, ‘bag’ bays (bays that 

are shaped like an inflated bag with a narrow 

opening and a wide deep lobe). 

Columbus is noted for his declaration that 

the land that would become Cuba was “the 

most beautiful place human eyes have ever 

seen” and 525 years later this beauty has 

not diminished at all. 

Here under the thatched roof, there is a 

strange statue, and a man dressed in the 

loincloth and paint of one of the Taino people 

explains its meaning. The circular 

shape at the top of the statue is a ‘guira’ or 

gourd (the same type used to make maracas), 

with irregular-shaped sticks that 

appear to be falling from the gourd, representing 

fish. It’s a visual depiction of a 

myth that relates to Yaya, the god of gods 

and his son Yayael. By the time Yayael 

reached his teen years, he became rebellious 

and disrespectful toward this father. 

In a fit of rage, Yaya killed his son and 

placed his body inside a guira. But 

Yayael’s mother missed her son and wanted 

to see him again so she decided to pick 

up the guira and open it. By accident she 

dropped it and water and fish flowed out 

and covered the earth. The Taino people 

were able to sustain themselves on the fish 

and seafood that lived in the waters, thanks 

to Yayael. (And when you think about it, 

travelers today also sustain themselves—in 

Cuba—in the ocean waters and by relishing 

fresh seafood and fish!) 

The last of the four sites at Cayo Bariya features 

the actual place that Columbus landed. 

There’s an archeological display and a 

recreation of the village that Admiral 

Columbus found. A short skit depicts the 

Taino’s reaction to the arrival of the 

Europeans and then, because this is a 

tourism spot, a traditional dance with log 

drumming is performed, before samples of 

Cuban rum are distributed and photos 

taken. It’s a fun and educational adventure 

that’s suitable for the family (except for the 

rum) and pays tribute to the indigenous 

people of Cuba. 

But in Holguin there are many Eco-parks, 

National Parks and activities that ‘connect’ 

the traveler with the destination. And of 

course what would any day in Cuba be like 

without singers and guitarists? 

At Eco-Park Rocazul, a short distance from 

Playa Pesquera’s three beach resorts (Playa 

Pesquera, Playa Costa Verde, and Blau 

Costa Verde), we were greeted with drinks 

the colour of the deep blue sky, made with 

Curacao and Sprite, and then ushered over 

to the porch of the family farm house to be 

serenaded by the song ‘Chan Chan’, the 

unofficial (Buena Vista Social Club) anthem 

of Cuba. Nearby a very large pig was 

being roasted on a wooden spit for our 

lunch. We were told that a pig this size 

would feed upwards of 80 people and that 

during the 5 hour roasting process, a marinade 

of sour orange, garlic and ‘secret’ 

spices was used to enhance the flavour. 

After a short Catamaran cruise on a bag 

bay lined with mangroves, another musical 

group greeted us, and once seated at the 

restaurant, the musicians took song 

requests (Commandante Che Guevara, 

Que Sas, Ceilito Lindo, and more) while

lunch was served: Fresh salad, traditional 

rice and beans, grilled Yellow-tail Snapper, 

Roast Pig, and juicy pineapple and papaya, 

along with a selection of Chilean Red and 

White wines as well as beer (Buccanero or 

Cristal are the popular choices). 

The festive meal could only be outdone by 

an actual Festival and because this was 

May 3, there happened to be one taking 

place in Holguin City. Romarías de Mayo, 

or the Pilgrimages of May, is an annual 

event celebrating the day in 1790 when the 

Franciscan Friar, Antonio Joseph Alegría, 

ascended the steep hill in Holguin City, carrying 

a large cross. He planted it on the 

summit, as was the Spanish custom, in 

order to protect the surrounding lands from 

epidemics, witchcraft and natural disasters. 

The hill became known as La Cruz Hillock 

and a tradition began for people to celebrate 

in the city and then climb the hill. 

On May 3, 2017 for example, the Festival 

parade was under way when we arrived in 

in the late afternoon. Crowds were huddled 

under trees and umbrellas for shade on this 

sunny, hot day, while others enjoyed the 

scenery from roof tops and the balconies of 

nearby buildings. And the parade itself was 

a cavalcade of color, music, dancing, 

singing, costumes and flag waving, with 

Chinese Dragon dancing, baton twirlers, 

stilt walkers, horse carts festooned with 

flags and youth groups carrying jumbosized 

Cuban and Revolutionary flags. Every 

few minutes the procession halted as entertainers 

took to the main stage and wowed 

spectators with bouncy Cha Cha and 

Samba rhythms and sing-a-long local folk 

songs. It was one smile after another. 

Following the Parade, many of the spectators 

headed to the base of La Cruz Hillock 

and climbed the 548 steps, some slowly, 

such as the man balancing the full bottle of 

dark rum on his head as he ascended the 

hill (the bottle made it to the top, intact) and 

some energetically, such as the youth 

groups who bounded to the summit, carrying 

the giant flags. And at the top of the hill 

there was more musical entertainment, 

enhanced by the lights of Holguin City 

sparking below, and a million stars twinkling 

in the sky overhead. 

Music comes in all shapes and sizes in 

Holguin Province, and many visitors find it 

hard to walk to breakfast at their all-inclusive 

resort without hearing the songs of the 

Northern Mockingbird or the Red-legged 

Thrush, or the whistling of Grackles or the 

ominous overhead fly-past of Turkey 

Vultures. One morning after a rainfall, a 

lounge of Curly-tailed Lizards ran silently 

through the grasses and perched themselves 

on a clump of rocks to dry off. 

But if you’re looking for more familiar animals 

and birds, then Cayo Saetia is the 

place to go. A day excursion is offered by 

some resorts, where after a 90-minute drive 

to the town of Antilla, you board a 

Catamaran for the one-hour ride on the 

smooth bag bay to the sandy beach at 

Cayo Saetia to enjoy swimming, snorkeling, 

horseback riding and jeep safaris. After a 

fresh, tasty buffet lunch in the restaurant 

that featured yet another roasted pig, we 

hopped into one of the jeeps and set out for 

our adventure. 

As the jeep bounced along the red-earth 

road we saw a large, fluffy ball of feathers, 

supported by two skinny legs, in the shade 

up ahead. It turned out to be an Ostrich (!) 

(not exactly a bird endemic to Cuba). The 

Ostrich gleefully ran toward the jeep, looking 

for a handout. Down the road we spotted 

antelope and deer, a gang of buffalo, a 

few horses and their foals, some zebra who 

had been rolling in the red earth (what’s 

white and black and red all over?), two 

Jurassic-size Iguanas and a friendly red 

Macaw. It was another fun adventure. 

Holguin Province is in a lot of ways a microcosm 

of what visitors can expect when they 

explore Cuba. The emphasis is on the people, 

history and natural attractions, along 

with the inescapable opportunity for relaxation, 

adventure and fun, and even a bit of 

serendipity thrown in for good measure. 

www.visitcuba.ca 

11 


Fall in Love with Golden, BC 

Article & Photography by Jennifer Merrick 

Celebrating Canada’s 150th

“Think this is beautiful? Just wait till you 

get to the top,” said Emile Lavoie, a 

Sherbrooke, QC native who now 

makes his home in Golden. “It’s an infinity 

pool of mountains.” 

We were riding up the gondola at Kicking 

Horse Resort, up to a height of 7700 feet 

on a blue-sky spring morning. When we 

got off the ride, not even Emile’s description 

prepared us for the view that awaited. 

Peak after peak of snow-capped mountains 

surrounded us in every direction, stretching 

out endlessly. It felt as though we had 

stepped into a postcard of the heavens 

above. 

Mountains are what define the small town 

of Golden, British Columbia, situated in the 

Columbia Valley between the Rockies to the 

east and the Columbia Mountains to the 

west. There are no less than six national 

parks within a two-hour drive: Banff, 

Jasper, Yoho, Kootenay, Glacier and Mount 

Revelstoke. The town attracts a lot of folks 

like Emile, outdoor enthusiasts who come 

for a visit and never leave. 

I can relate. 

After a visit filled with hikes, wildlife sightings, 

friendly people and most of all, the 

ever-present mountains, it was hard to even 

think about getting on a plane home. But 

before I left, I consoled myself by buying a 

lottery ticket, planning to come back the 

next day if I won. 

I would wager that if you visit, you’ll fall in 

love with the region, too. And while you’re 

there, try some of these Golden activities. 

Wear Georgia’s Pants at Glacier 

National Park 

Canada’s second largest park, Glacier, is 

located in the Selkirk range of the 

Columbia Mountains, 80 kilometres west of 

Golden. It’s home to the historic Rogers 

Pass, a route discovered in 1881 through 

the ‘impenetrable peaks’ that now connect 

our nation from coast to coast. A lesserknown 

slice of history is the park’s role in 

the beginnings of alpine tourism and 

mountaineering. It was advertised as ’50 

Switzerlands in one’, and the Canadian 

Pacific Railway even brought in Swiss 

guides to lead affluent Edwardians through 

the peaks. For the next few decades, 

Glacier House hosted many a guests, 

including one intrepid climber, Georgia 

Engelhard. Despite public criticism, she 

wore men’s pants while climbing and Swiss 

guides joked about putting rocks in her 

pack to keep up with her. One summer, she 

summited no less than 24 peaks in the 

Selkirk Mountains in just three weeks. 

Modern-day tourists can pose with a metal 

sculpture of her pants with the steep, 

jagged peaks as a backdrop, and be 

inspired to do their own hikes. We enjoyed 

an easy walk on the Hemlock Grove Trail, 

which showcases the interior rainforest 

fauna, and explored some of the historical 

remnants like railway pillars on the Loop 

Brook Trail. 

Paddle the Rivers 

Golden is at the junction of the Kicking 

Horse and Columbia rivers, both designated 

BC Heritage Rivers and both offering an 

abundance of recreational activities. True 

adrenaline junkies can be helicoptered in 

for a wild ride on the Kicking Horse River 

through the lower canyon, famed for its 

long stretch of class four white water and 

vertical rock walls. This summer promises 

to be one of the most exhilarating ever due 

to the large amount of snowfall. 

A more peaceful but equally breathtaking 

paddling adventure is kayaking through 

the Columbia Wetlands. At over 180 kilometers 

in length, the protected tract of land 

is home to over 300 species of birds, fish 

and other wildlife. Columbia Wetlands 

Adventures offers guided tours of this ecological 

treasure. One of the most magical 

moments of our Golden trip was paddling 

on water so still it reflected the mountains 

that surrounded us. 

Explore Yoho National Park 

Yoho comes from a Cree word meaning 

‘awe and wonder’, and there are plenty of 

spots to do just that in this national park, 

located 60 kilometers east of Golden. 

13 

There are over 400km of hiking trails 

within its boundaries, and natural 

highlights include Takakkaw Falls, one of 

the highest waterfalls in western Canada 

and Lake O’Hara, a jewel-blue lake that 

has captured the imagination of generations 

of visitors. Emerald Lake is the largest 

of the park’s 61 lakes and lives up to its 

name with a shimmering deep turquoise 

colour. We walked the Emerald Lake 

Circuit, which is an easy 5km loop, 

although we did find it difficult not to stop 

every five minutes for yet another photo. 

Our next hike took us to Wapta Falls, which 

at 490 feet wide is the largest on the 

Kicking Horse River and also very photogenic. 

Be sure to empty your memory card 

before you go. 

Recharge in Golden 

Every adventure in the surrounding mountains 

and rivers deserves a reward, and 

there are plenty of establishments in town, 

where you can digest your adventures as 

well as good food and drink. Whitetooth 

Brewing Company is a good place to 

begin. Opened recently, these craft brews 

inspired by Belgium-styled beers were an 

instant hit. Refreshing cocktails and delicious 

food can be found at Eleven22, a 

local favourite. This renovated home with 

seating inside and outside has a casual 

atmosphere, and its locally-sourced original 

menu is spot on. To start the day, you 

can’t go wrong with Bluebird Café, a casual 

eatery with homemade breakfast and 

lunch options and in-house bakery treats. 

Their packed lunches are ideal to take on 

your day’s adventures. 

And there’s one more spot not to be missed 

– Eagle’s Eye Restaurant. Remember the 

infinity pool of mountains the gondola took 

us up to at Kicking House Resort? It’s also 

the location of Canada’s highest restaurant 

and almost every seat has an awe-inspiring 

view. A perfect place to fall in love with the 

mountains. 

www.tourismgolden.com 


14 

Best of Buenos Aires 

Views, Romance, and People-Watching 

View from Palacio Barolo: KaitlinM/iStock 

BEST VIEWS 

PALACIO BAROLO 

Take the guided tour of this stunning palace 

for a chance to survey the city skyline during 

the day or at night. Once the tallest 

building in South America, Palacio Barolo 

is a magnificent piece of architecture whose 

design was influenced by Dante’s Divine 

Comedy. 

RESERVA ECOLÓGICA COSTANERA SUR 

Look back at the city from this nature 

reserve to observe the dramatic contrast 

between nature and the towering skyscrapers. 

It is a favorite place for residents, who 

use the area for walking, jogging, and 

bird-watching. A number of guided tours 

are available, all of which are free! 

Plaza de Mayo: tiagofernandezphotography/123rf 

BIBLIOTECA NACIONAL 

Recline on a comfy chair on the fifth floor of 

the national library while surveying the 

northern section of the city. Housing the 

largest library collection in Argentina, the 

building took over 20 years to build and is 

elevated by vast columns, giving it the 

appearance of hovering over the surrounding 

parks. 

ZIRKEL 

Make sure to ask for a window seat at this 

21st-floor restaurant in the middle of 

Centro. 

SKY BAR 

Watch the sunset from this 13th-floor night 

spot while live jazz plays in the background. 

Sky Bar is only open between 

October and April if you want to enjoy the 

swanky surroundings. 

PURO REMO 

Head out into the Río de la Plata with this 

outfitter to see the city from a boat. 

SOCCER STADIUMS 

The highest tier inside the stadium of the 

city’s most popular soccer teams, Boca 

Juniors and River Plate, afford splendid 

views of the surrounding neighborhoods. 

BEST FOR ROMANCE 

STARGAZING 

Wander around the docks of Puerto 

Madero at night, where the moon reflects 

off the water and lovers canoodle on 

benches. For an 

JARDÍN BOTÁNICO 

Find a shady bench among the wild plants 

and cats that wander among the foliage in 

this botanical garden. Five ornamental 

greenhouses—one of which is in art nouveau 

style, thought to be the only version of 

its kind in the world—contain thousands of 

plants. 

ROSEDAL 

This rose garden, with its 20,000 roses, a 

lake, fountains, pergolas, swans, wooden 

bridges, and busts of poets, provides an 

ideal location for meandering hand in 

hand. October through April is the best 

time to visit, when the explosion of color is 

overwhelming, although there are species 

in bloom throughout the year. 

DINING AT LA CABRERA 

Reserve an intimate table at this gourmet 

parrilla and share one of their oversize 

melt-in-your-mouth steaks.

WATCHING A TANGO SHOW 

While options are endless for watching 

tango dancers, Bar Sur is of the most intimate 

venues, while La Catedral is one of 

the most unique and bohemian. La 

Catedral is notable for the relaxed and 

information atmosphere, making it perfect 

for unsure foreigners and beginner 

dancers. Bar Sur transforms at night into a 

cozy affair where dancers pass within inches 

of the tables. 

LISTENING TO MUSIC 

Let the musicians at tiny Lo de Roberto 

charm you with their romantic laments. 

PARQUE TRES DE FEBRERO 

Hire a tandem and roam this park on a 

sunny afternoon. Jules Charles Thays, a 

French landscape architect born in Versaille 

during 1934, added lakes, curved paths, 

and bridges to the park. He dreamed of 

transforming Parque Tres de Febrero into 

the Buenos Aires version of Paris’s Bois de 

Boulogne. 

tree-filled Plaza San Martín draw a diverse 

mix of people. One of the largest green 

spaces in an area otherwise deprived of 

open land, Parque Centenario fills with 

people over the weekend. 

SHOPPERS’ HAVEN 

The hardest part of people-watching in the 

crowded shopping district of Once is finding 

somewhere to sit down. Prepare to be 

amazed at the variety of purchases you’ll 

see tucked under people’s arms when you 

do find an unoccupied bench. 

Adapted from Moon Buenos Aires by Nick 

Mills. Copyright © 2017. Available from 

Avalon Travel, an imprint of Perseus Books, 

LLC, a subsidiary of Hachette Book Group, 

Inc. 

Puerto Madero: Saiko3p/Dreamstime.com 

15 

BEST PEOPLE-WATCHING 

THE CITY CENTER 

It’s the obvious choice: Plaza de Mayo is a 

gathering place for residents and is often 

the site of political protests. It’s also a good 

starting point to explore the historic city 

center, with its cobbled streets and crumbling 

houses sitting alongside sweeping 

avenues and glass skyscrapers. 

IN A SQUARE 

Sit at one of the tables in Plaza Dorrego on 

any day but Sunday (when the popular 

Feria de San Pedro Telmo makes it impractical) 

and you’re sure to pass hours watching 

the passersby. 

AMONG THE ROSES 

With the sheer quantity of people around 

the lake in Parque Tres de Febrero’s 

Rosedal over the weekend, almost anywhere 

will do, but setting up near the 

Greek Bridge will ensure you see an endless 

stream of people taking photos on the 

peculiar structure. 

CAFÉ WITH A VIEW 

There are few café patios that provide such 

an ideal spot for people-watching as La 

Biela, where lavishly dressed women sweep 

down the adjoining avenue alongside wandering 

musicians and artisans selling 

homemade bread. 

GREEN SPACES 

During the day, the shaded benches in the 


16 

Around The World 

(in 18 pages) 

Grape Harvest Festivals Across Spain 

Hong Kong’s “Old Town Central” 

is a Living Museum of Heritage, Arts, Culture & Cuisine 

September and October mark the arrival of autumn and also the 

period when grapes are picked. Every year, the harvest signals the 

end of the grape-growing season and after the work is done, it's 

time to celebrate the good crop in style. The grape harvest festivals 

that are held in many places in Spain offer a sample of what 

the world of wine is like and of its typical popular customs. You 

are sure to have a memorable time during these festivities 

because the mood of merriment that prevails is contagious. You 

will also have the chance to see first-hand some of the tasks 

involved in the winemaking process. 

These naturally include the traditional treading of the grapes and 

the tasting of the first must. Wine-related events are often organised 

as well such as tasting sessions, al fresco meals or open days 

at wineries. The programme usually includes other activities of a 

cultural nature, such as competitions, folk dances, parades or 

theatrical productions. The Rioja Grape Harvest Festivals and the 

Autumn Festivals are among the most famous ones; however, visitors 

will find that these celebrations are held in many locations in 

each of Spain's winemaking areas. 

Autumn in Spain brings the opportunity to enjoy this country's 

wine culture in an easy and fun way and surely not to be missed. 

www.spain.info 

China Tourism Introduces 

New Brand Logo 

China National Tourism Administration (CNTA) has made 

“Beautiful China” the tag line of its tourism and introduced a 

new global brand logo. With an overall look as a stamp, the 

new logo integrates modern messaging with the ancient 

Chinese art form of calligraphy. The hieroglyph in the background 

means “travel” in ancient Chinese language, which shows a flag guiding a couple around. 

The blue color represents the sky, delivering China tourism’s concepts - vitality, harmony and 

green travel. The red color gives tribute to the Chinese civilization that has been going on for 

thousands of years. Illustrating an international vision, the “Beautiful China” logo represents 

China’s promising and welcoming tourism industry. 

Central is full of history and stories, and is the birthplace of colonial Hong Kong. It 

reflects the evolution of Hong Kong from a sleepy British colony to one of the 

world’s great cities. Central is well-known as a glitzy financial district, jam-packed 

with skyscrapers, but beneath the stunning skyline, history, art, food and culture 

take hold in this once colonial neighborhood, where East and West, past and present, 

tradition and innovation, and bustle and tranquility coexist, blend and collide. 

To provide visitors with a unique perspective when exploring Central and neighbouring 

Sheung Wan area, five themed walking routes have been thoughtfully 

designed to reveal over 100 years of Hong Kong history. The routes take visitors 

to colonial monuments, temples, art galleries, street art display, antique stores, hip 

boutiques, trending restaurants, and bars and local delicacies, with hidden gems 

at every turn. 

Five “Old Town Central” Walking Routes: 

1. Heritage: Time Traveller The Central and Sheung Wan areas were where the 

story of modern Hong Kong began. From Possession Point, where the British flag 

was first officially raised, to the Tai Ping Shan area, where many Chinese first settled 

in the 1840s, this journey leads you through some of the city’s oldest streets 

and offers glimpses of what life was like when the future world city was still in its 

infancy. 

2. Art: Crazy for Art Take a stroll down the Hollywood Road, one of the oldest 

streets in Hong Kong, lined with galleries offering a huge range of artworks, from 

ancient to contemporary and from Asian to Western. Enjoy the creative graffiti art 

on the walls of the many side alleys leading off the street. 

3. Dining: Tasting Hong Kong Central is a paradise for food lovers, offering a 

world of choices only steps from each other. From traditional dim sum and international 

and fusion cuisine to local dai pai dongs and street food, there’s something 

to appeal to every taste. 

4. Treasure Hunt: Hidden Gems in Back Alleys This route takes you to Upper 

Lascar Row, which has a fascinating mix of antiques; a blooming creative neighborhood 

on Tai Ping Shan Street and in the PoHo area, where design studios are 

nestled between teahouses; and the Bridges Street area, where visitors can find 

second-hand books, knickknacks and reminders of the city’s past. 

5. Something for Everyone This walk covers the top landmarks and points of interests 

from each thematic route and is perfect for visitors who have limited time to 

explore the area. 

www.discoverhongkong.com 


18 

Good to Go! 

Great Travel Gear and Gadgets 

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C o m e W i t h U s & S e e T h e W o r l d!

travellers a unique experience. The 

two-hour ride embraces the island’s 

motto of ‘go slow’ and highlights the 

area’s idyllic nature, history, and culture. 

G Adventures Adds Five New Social Enterprise Projects to its Tours 21 

New meal, wheel, and homestay experiences that give back in 2017 

Leading small-group adventure operator 

G Adventures announces new 

sustainable travel experiences in 

Belize, Indonesia, Kenya, Mexico, and Nepal 

for 2017, empowering travellers to support 

local communities while offering them a truly 

local experience. 

The five new social enterprise projects 

include a guided bike tour on Caye Caulker, 

Belize, local meals at restaurants in Playa del 

Carmen, Mexico and Nakuru, Kenya, and 

homestays near Chitwan National Park in 

Nepal, and inside Bromo-Tengger-Semeru 

National Park in Java, Indonesia. 

The initiatives, known as G Adventures for 

Good projects, aim to support women, 

indigenous communities and at-risk youth, 

while offering travellers immersive experiences 

in culturally unique parts of the world. 

G Adventures’ founder, Bruce Poon Tip 

believes travel and tourism can be a force for 

good in developing nations where tourism is 

one of the most important means of income. 

“When we travel the right way, with likeminded 

people who care about making a 

positive impact on the places they travel to, 

Photos this page: G Adventures 

we can do a world of good. Our new projects 

are examples of the sharing economy 

our world needs, and the sharing economy 

I want to see thrive. 

“The United Nations has designated 2017 

as its Year of Sustainable Tourism for 

Development, and with increased awareness 

I believe tourism can be the biggest 

form of wealth distribution the world has 

seen,” says Poon Tip. 

The five new experiences join G 

Adventures’ list of 31 projects around the 

world and are part of its commitment to 

launch 50 new projects by 2020 – 10 per 

year – also known as its “50 in 5” campaign. 

More details on the projects and 

how travellers can experience them follow: 

Bike with Purpose - Caye Caulker, 

Belize - On Caye Caulker, children often 

drop out from school by age 12. G 

Adventures sends 4,000 travellers a year to 

the island, and by taking a Bike with 

Purpose tour, travellers give students from 

the Ocean Academy (the island’s only 

community high school) the opportunity to 

practice their guiding skills while offering 

El Hongo Community Restaurant - 

Playa del Carmen, Mexico - Playa del 

Carmen has become built-up by mass 

tourism and this project takes travellers to 

see ‘the other side’ with a home-style meal 

at volunteer-run restaurant El Hongo. G 

Adventures groups enjoy a meal at the 

restaurant and tour the neighbourhood, 

learning about the vivid street art the kids 

created with support from this social enterprise. 

Unbutu Training Cafe - Maai Mahiu, 

Kenya - This training café empowers communities 

and creates jobs along the only 

route to the Maasai Mara. Travellers enjoy a 

delicious lunch sourced from local organic 

farms. The café also provides a market for 

marginalised women to learn to make, and 

sell handicrafts as meaningful souvenirs. 

Proceeds from the businesses help support 

the nearby Ubuntu School, which serves 

children with special needs by providing 

therapy, education, and vocational training. 

Barauli Community Homestay - 

Chitwan National Park, Nepal - G 

Adventures travellers visit the Barauli 

Community Homestay while they are in the 

Chitwan region, learning about the traditions 

of the Tharu people. Over 1,500 travellers 

visit this region annually, bringing sustainable 

tourism revenue for the community. 

The homestay project aims to diversify the 

income of women in the region. 

Tengger Community Homestay - Java, 

Indonesia - G Adventures travellers to stay 

in a traditional home inside Bromo-Tengger- 

Semeru National Park and enjoy day trips as 

part of a community developed hike. The 

new homestays will be fully owned and 

managed by the Tengger tribe and allow for 

older residents to diversify their income, 

while creating jobs for the next generation. 

Select tours that will empower travellers to 

contribute to this community’s well-being. 

www.gadventures.com 


22 

What’s Trending in Melbourne: Eating Vegan 

Article & Photography by Jessica Percy-Campbell 

Dessert at Girls & Boys 

Gorgeous weather, high-end coffee 

culture and innovative culinary 

trends are just a few reasons why 

Melbourne has been named one of the 

world’s most livable cities. With an influx of 

veggie-friendly restaurants popping up 

everywhere you look, creative vegan cuisine 

is what’s hot in Melbourne right now. 

To prove it, Melbourne’s Big Vegan Market 

was a massive success this year, with over 

10,000 guests and 150 vendors displaying 

a wide range of plant-based items including 

skincare products, organic clothing, 

home décor, speciality meals and desserts. 

Melbourne Café Culture 

One fabulous tourist destination is St. 

Kilda, and not only for its wild penguins, 

kite surfers, and sunset views along the 

pier, but also for brunch! Brunch is all the 

rage in Melbourne, and with so many 

locally owned cafes, each one brings 

something unique to the table. Matcha 

Mylk Bar offers plant-based poached 

“eggs” made from coconut, turmeric and 

sweet potato. They taste a little sweeter, but 

look just like the real thing, runny yellow 

yolk and all. For those who love to indulge, 

this café serves Mr. and Mrs. Banks cruffins, 

a hybrid between a croissant and a muffin 

stuffed with hazelnut chocolate filling. 

Richmond’s Serotonin takes a holistic 

approach to healthy living and thematically 

revolves its menu around the concept of 

happiness itself. Melbourne takes coffee 

very seriously, but here, the cappuccinos 

are served with smiling faces drawn into 

the foam. Like every other dish on the 

menu, the frozen Galaxy Acai Bowl incorporates 

all colors of the rainbow. Sit in a 

swing by the window surrounded by greenery, 

or take a picnic basket out into the park 

across the road and enjoy the sunshine. 

Fitzroy is for Foodies 

At the heart of the vegan community is 

Fitzroy, a fashionable inner suburb not far 

from the Central Business District (CBD). An 

extremely popular take-away lunch spot is 

Smith and Deli. Picture the Aussie version 

of New York style sandwiches filled with a 

huge variety of deli “meats”, “cheeses”, 

and “eggs” on freshly baked sourdough. 

Around the corner is their sister location 

Smith and Daughters, a self-proclaimed 

“vegan bar and eatery with a rock and roll 

vibe” specializing in traditional Spanish 

dishes such as “sausage” empanadas and 

“seafood” stew. 

Down the block there’s Vegie Bar for tacos, 

burritos, and gourmet pizza; and Girls & 

Boys for dessert, with dairy-free gelato, sorbet, 

soft-serve, doughnuts and pumpkin 

pie. All vegan and all without the use of 

refined sugar, this little sweet shop caters to 

nut allergies and gluten intolerance as well. 

Taking the reigns as a world-class destination 

for Instagram-worthy cuisine, the sheer 

number of extraordinary choices is reason 

enough for anyone to visit Melbourne. For 

an optimal snowbird vacation, travel to 

Australia in their summer months of 

December – February and explore as many 

cafes as possible. 

For more info on Melbourne: 

www.visitvictoria.com 

For more vegan-friendly spots around the 

world: 

www.veganvacationista.com 


10 Reasons to Experience the Leh-Ladakh 

trail as a Motorcycle road trip 

enthralling panorama will leave you 

astounded. You will be under the spell of 

this place’s beauty long after the trip has 

ended. 

6. To Collect Unrivalled Travel Tales 

Pangong lake, Photo by Jeevan, CC0 1.0 

As you cross through one destination after 

another, you will gather experiences and 

stories to last you a lifetime. The amicable 

locals, the sumptuous food, the friends you 

make along the way, the challenges you 

overcome on the road trip and the 

enchanting sights will leave you with inexhaustible 

pictures and tales. 

7. To Indulge in Some Soul-Searching 

There is no better way to spend some time 

away from the clamour of the cities and 

reflect back on your life than a road trip to 

this tranquil place. It is ideal for a solo bike 

trip to give yourself that much needed 

break, away from the mad rush of life. 

8. An Insight into the Local Essence 

It is a dream come true to finally be able 

to witness the immense beauty and 

splendour of Ladakh. This unimaginably 

picturesque and idyllic land has been 

captured in movies, travel stories on social 

media pages, and written about in almost 

every travel magazine out there. If there is 

something more breathtaking than this 

place, it can only be the journey to this 

abode of peace, especially if it is a road trip 

on a bike! A ride through this terrain is 

nothing like you have ever experienced or 

seen before. Here are just a handful of reasons 

why every true adventurer and traveler 

must embark on this unique expedition. 

1. The Inexplicably Stunning Routes 

The journey usually starts from the national 

capital of the country, Delhi, and crosses 

various states and cities before leading to 

the final destination. The voyage through 

long stretches of green fields, far away 

from the hustle and bustle, will leave you 

refreshed and reinvigorated for the ride 

ahead. Filled with abundant scenic views 

that make the trip worthwhile, there was 

not even one moment of boredom or disappointment, 

as every mile you cross competes 

with the last in impressiveness. 

2. A Road Trip of a Lifetime 

You might have taken some amazing road 

trips before, but this one is sure to beat 

nearly all of the others. This one makes it 

onto every wanderer’s bucket list and every 

biker’s wish list. Whether taking your 

American World Traveler Summer 2017 

beloved bike or renting one, this road trip 

is a part of every rover’s dream. The cool 

breeze, the endless roads, and the sightseeing 

through different states make this an 

unforgettable and incomparable trip on a 

bike. The best time to visit Ladakh is from 

April to June. 

3. The Adventure and Exhilaration 

Is there anything better than an adventurefilled 

trip that leads to an extraordinary climax 

for someone who loves bikes and has 

been bitten by the travel bug too? Well, for 

all those thrill-seekers, this road trip has 

been custom-made for you. You will cross a 

plethora of mind-blowing locales and 

tough corridors before landing into the 

serene land of your dreams. 

4. Pleasing Plains to Captivating Valleys 

The landscapes will keep changing from 

avenues with vast meadows to thick forests 

and from plains to mesmerising valleys. 

Throughout your journey, before reaching 

Leh and while passing through Ladakh, 

and on your journey back home, you will 

be left speechless by the ever changing 

backdrops. 

5. The Ride Across the “Land of High 

Passes” 

When you actually reach Ladakh and ride 

through the sights there, the journey takes 

an altogether different turn. The striking 

colours, beautiful monasteries and the 

There is a certain amount of immediacy 

and familiarity a world traveller develops 

with a place when one travels towards or 

through it. You get to comprehend and 

appreciate the local culture, local cuisine 

and the kindness of the local people you 

meet along your way. This road trip is 

going to give you a unique perspective to 

the way of life in this land of cold desert. 

9. Unexplored Territories 

Biking in India means stopping by any 

place you find interesting and beguiling 

enough. You will have visited and experienced 

more places than just the regular 

tourist haunts. 

10. One of the Most Exciting Getaways 

To be able to navigate through the challenging 

routes, to survive the road journey 

on a bike, and to be able to immerse yourself 

in the milieus and culture of the place, 

makes this one of the most interesting and 

coveted road trips in the world. 

Pack that rucksack, get your bike ready, 

and start your journey to Leh- Ladakh. It is 

an experience that shouldn’t be missed or 

delayed at any cost. 

Author Bio: 

A keen traveler and adventure enthusiast, read 

more about Rohit’s travel journeys in his blog 

Trans India Travels.

26 

The Urban Renaissance of Johannesburg 

Article & Photography by Olivia Balsinger 

After about two decades of considerable 

setbacks in it economy and 

socio-politics, Johannesburg, the 

capital of South Africa, has been experiencing 

a rapid progress akin to a new age 

urban renaissance. This rebirth is the result 

of its post-apartheid initiatives, focused on 

forming a new and loquacious unity among 

all of its people, leading to developments in 

its urban planning, economic structure, 

artistic scene, and its proactive measures to 

promote tourism. 

Its success cannot be understated, and it 

has assumed the role as the heart of the 

South African nation. A visit to 

Johannesburg is an eclectic experience, as 

it offers the chance to discover its vast and 

varied culture. You will learn about its controversial 

past, celebrate its inspiring transition 

and relish experiencing its new identity 

as a rather chic and progressive urban hub. 

The key to Johannesburg's impressive 

progress is perhaps its hyper awareness to 

illuminate its past. The approach itself is 

rather optimistic, highlighting the heroes of 

apartheid, without detracting from the realities 

of its heinousness. The best place to get 

an overview is the renowned Apartheid 

Museum, which condenses the narrative to 

its core timeline from its veritable beginnings 

in 1948 to its triumphant end in 

1994, when Nelson Mandela was elected 

president of the republic. 

Its comprehensive program delves into the 

catalysts and consequences of this dark era, 

emitting a beacon of hope by illustrating its 

gradual ascent to liberation -- a modern 

example of triumph in the arena of human 

rights. For a more curated experience on 

the liberation movement, tourists are also 

enjoined to visit the Mandela Museum, 

which was converted from the house where 

Mandela’s family lived from 1946 to 1962. 

Perhaps the most emotive excursion for history 

buffs, however is Constitution Hill, 

where once the Old Fort Prison Complex 

stood, which housed revolutionary heroes, 

such as Mandela and Mahatma Gandhi, 

when they were incarcerated. 

The city’s rich history echoes with numinous 

vibrations, which have over the years motivated 

a movement that seeks to replace the 

air of a repressed past with an open an 

honest art scene. Looking to the world’s 

more metropolitan cities like as Berlin, New 

York, and Paris as models of thriving urban 

hubs, Johannesburg has found its own 

voice in reimagining its cultural landscape 

by implementing conscious and focused 

redevelopment of its inner city neighborhoods. 

This reinvigoration of Newtown and 

Braamfontein, for example, has been 

extremely successful in cultivating a hip and 

thriving artistic climate, becoming home to 

some of the world’s most famous street art, 

such as The Shadow Boxer. 

Of particular note in transitioning the concrete 

jungle of Johannesburg’s inner city 

precincts is the neighborhood of 

Maboneng. Like the rest of the precincts in 

the inner city, Maboneng was once a no-go 

area. It in fact was plagued with particular 

danger at the end of apartheid in 1994, 

due to the uncertainty and anxiety that the 

transition would inevitably incur: It faced 

crime waves as businesses relocated to the 

northern suburbs, leaving vacancy for 

squatters to move in to buildings and dangerous 

conditions. With all of this in consideration, 

it may seem like a high stakes bet 

for property developer Jonathan Liebmann 

to have the vision to convert this ghost town 

into a bustling artistic community. 

With his company, Propertuity, Liebmann 

sought to attract artists and professionals 

back to the precinct, drawing parallels 

between derelict industrial spaces to those 

in other gentrified cities such as 

Williamsburg, Brooklyn, for example, 

where chic boutiques and art galleries now 

occupy disused warehouses. Speaking of 

warehouses, the nucleus of this buzzing 

urban destination is Arts on Main, operating 

out of a bonded warehouse dates back 

to 1911, and expands four blocks in diameter. 

Shops, galleries, vendors, and restaurants 

line the white-wash, high-ceilinged 

interior. Meanwhile, messages and testaments 

to Maboneng’s new identity are literally 

written on the walls, which is splayed 

with graffiti of lines such as “Love your 

work,’ adjacent to images executed by 

some of the cities most talented new residents. 

In order to attract more artists, the 

precinct offers discounted studios and 

apartments to up-and-coming creatives, 

with the most renowned being the multimedia 

giant William Kentridge. 

Propertuity has truly given new meaning to 

Maboneng, which itself is translated to 

“Place of Light.” It has indeed brought it out 

of the shadows of a darker era to shine with 

the potential to change the future of the city, 

country, and the world by becoming the 

headquarters for artistic expression and discourse. 

When you visit this truly incredible 

neighborhood, be sure to stay in the boutique 

hotel Hallmark House, which is owned 

and developed by Propertuity. A landmark 

of a new chapter in African architecture, 

The Hallmark Hotel is a luxurious, curated 

living spaces (penthouses, apartments, and 

hotel rooms) for visitors and permanent residents 

alike. It captures the constantly elevating 

ambiance of Maboneng main streets 

to an indoor venue, converting an intangible 

culture into veritable lifestyle, where art 

and progressive thinking pervades. 


Turkey 

Your Partner in Healthcare 

While you are undergoing recovery or waiting 

for the procedure, patients can visit 

anywhere they wish in Turkey. Imagine flying 

into Istanbul and visiting the open-air, 

Roman-era Hippodrome or the Egyptian 

obelisks while waiting for Cardiovascular 

surgery. Driving around Turkey’s cosmopolitan 

capital Ankara, sightseeing the 

opera house and going up to the lookout in 

Anitkabir, the enormous hilltop mausoleum 

of Kemal Atatürk while awaiting state-of the 

art cancer treatments (Medical & Surgical 

and Radiation including Gammaknife and 

Cyberknife technology) 

Breaking the mold, Turkey’s state-of-the-art 

medical technology and infrastructure, top 

quality services, competitive prices, easy 

access to medical services and central geographical 

location make it the destination 

of choice for people who need top notch 

medical services at an affordable price. 

Come for the surgery and stay for the sites! 

Tourism takes many forms, from the 

youthful backpacker in Germany to 

the sophisticated sightseer in Paris 

to family vacationers in Disney. Turkey has 

become a leader in another category: 

Health Tourism! 

Health tourism as a concept was introduced 

to the Turkish healthcare sector in 

the early 2000s. Turkey began welcoming 

international patients thanks to its strong 

political and economic structure, geographical 

position, medical expertise and 

the highly developed healthcare system. 

The Turkish Health Transformation Plan 

(HTP) was implemented by the Ministry of 

Health between 2003 – 2013, aiming to 

increase the quality and access to healthcare 

in Turkey. As a result, it has boosted 

domestic demand, added state-of-the-artmedical 

technology and offering highquality 

treatments at reasonable prices. 

Turkey’s private healthcare sector has been 

marketing its advantages to foreign 

patients and within the last decade, the 

health tourism sector has been increased 

gradually and the global revenue has now 

garnered over $100 billion. 

The Turkish private clinics are host to a wide 

range of international patients from every 

corner of the world. On a yearly basis, 

close to 300,000 international patients 

chose to get their medical treatment in 

Turkey, the majority of whom come from 

Germany, Libya, Russia, Iraq, the 

Netherlands, Azerbaijan and the UK, benefit 

from the high quality and affordable 

healthcare treatments available in Turkey. 

Good health is your most valuable asset 

and deserves the very best treatment, and 

Turkey offers that from start to finish. They 

offer the best airline in Europe (according 

to the 2016 Skytrax survey, Turkish Airlines 

was chosen as "Europe's Best Airline" for a 

sixth and "Best Airline in Southern Europe" 

for the eighth consecutive time) and Turkish 

Airlines is one of the fastest growing airlines 

in the world, flying to over 120 countries 

and 299 international destinations, 

which is more countries and destinations 

than any other airline. 

Besides the cutting-edge technology, globally 

experienced physicians and state of the 

art infrastructure, private hospitals in Turkey 

saw the need to develop a process that 

works for international patients. The institutions 

that play a major role in the healthtourism 

industry now have high quality staff 

that includes patient care coordinators 

speaking more than 15 languages to assist 

patients through their medical journey in 

their native language! 

Turkish international health services are 

now a collection of services including nonmedical 

issues like providing concierge 

services, transportation, translation of medical 

documents, travel assistance, visas and 

accommodation. 

There are many factors when choosing 

Turkey as a destination for health tourism 

and not just for their low-cost treatment but 

also their high standards of quality in medical 

services, staff expertise, technical 

equipment, global accreditations. Oh, and 

being a great place for tourist attractions is 

also a major supporting factor! 


30 

Experience the Seasonal Allure of 

Autumn, Winter and Spring in Europe with Trafalgar 

Savouring spiced gingerbread at traditional 

Christmas Markets, admiring 

majestic alpine peaks, and following 

the tempting aromas of warm gluhwein; 

fall, winter and spring in Europe are 

a treasure trove for all the senses. 

Trafalgar’s new 2017-18 Autumn Winter & 

Spring program showcases 34 guided 

vacation itineraries to 26 European countries, 

including two new trips - Delights of 

London and Paris and Festive St Petersburg 

and Moscow. 

“There really is no better place in the world 

to experience different seasons than 

Europe, and we’ve made it easy for travellers 

to discover the festive flavours and 

allure of some of our favourite destinations 

from November 2017 to April 2018, says 

Wolf Paunic, president of Trafalgar 

Canada. “We’ve carefully crafted each 

guided vacation to include authentic experiences 

and moments of magic to ensure 

our guests’ enjoyment.” 

Trafalgar’s Delights of London and Paris 

trip is a guest favourite, so this new 9-day 

guided vacation has been introduced into 

this year’s seasonal offering, allowing travellers 

to explore these beautiful cities in a 

whole new way. High streets and laneways 

in London and Paris dressed in fall colours, 

bustling Parisian farmers’ markets brimming 

with seasonal specialities, and 

London’s parks glistening with frost. 

Travellers will enjoy excursions to Bath and 

Stonehenge and a visit to the Palace of 

Versailles with a Local Specialist. 

Another new introduction to this year’s program 

is the new 7-day Festive St Petersburg 

and Moscow Christmas Spectacular travel 

style, where travellers will have the opportunity 

to watch these Russian cities transform 

for the Christmas season. Guests will 

be steeped in Christmas spirit during 

Moscow’s magical ‘Journey into Christmas’ 

festival, complete with ice rinks, snow 

sculptures and light installations before 

they delve into the history books in St 

Petersburg. 

In addition to two new itineraries, Trafalgar 

has made its 15-day tailored European 

White Christmas Delights & New Year 

Lights trip available to travellers for the first 

time ever. Guests will discover the secrets of 

champagne production, experience a white 

Christmas in St Moritz and ring in the New 

Year over regional food and wine in 

Tuscany. 

www.trafalgar.com 


32 

Tropical Tidbits 

by Sue C Travel 

Off-Radar & Fabulous Florida Fun 

It’s summertime and a great season for a 

road trip throughout Florida. I’ve sleuthed 

out some new and very cool and off-radar 

things to do in the Sunshine State for this 

edition of Tropical Tidbits… so let’s go! 

Jacksonville is Jumping! 

“JaxBeach” is what the locals call the trendy 

new surfside community, and it’s chock full 

of brand new avant garde eateries like 

TacoLu for gourmet tacos, and scads of little 

strip malls full of shops and bars catering 

to the masses of young visitors riding 

coaster bikes along the beach. Enjoy the 

friendly surf and a full calendar of beachfront 

music festivals all summer long. We 

had planned to stay at the spiffy new One 

Ocean Resort & Spa- but it was full- so we 

opted for Casa Marina Hotel-a historic 

Spanish colonial style complex with an 

inviting beachfront courtyard and a great 

rooftop bar. They have also developed the 

Jax Ale Trail- a tour of no less than 15 craft 

breweries in the area- we only made it to 

one, Green Room Brewing, but it didn’t disappoint. 

(Ask about their “passport program” 

for the brewpubs.) 

The new vibe has also begun seeping into 

downtown Jacksonville as they have exciting 

plans for restoration of many abandoned 

historic landmark buildings into cosmopolitan 

entertainment centers. Take a 

stroll through the business section with 

AdLibber Walking Tours to see the offbeat 

new outdoor art murals and sculptures, 

and sate your sweet tooth with a factory 

tour and sampling at Sweet Pete’s gourmet 

chocolate and candy store. Lunch at their 

Candy Apple Café also offers up both 

sweet and savory delights. Another trendy 

new restaurant worth a stop just outside of 

downtown is Moxie Kitchen for a twist on 

American comfort food. And for the latest 

in modern golf practice head to the new

multi-level TopGolf high-tech driving range 

and entertainment center. 

Awesome St. Augustine 

The oldest city in America is certainly worth 

a few days exploration and easy to do on 

foot if you stay at the brand new Collector’s 

Inn (see Page 69 in our ‘Stay & Play’ section) 

a gorgeous little boutique luxury oasis 

right in the heart of the old quarter. Not to 

be missed is a guided tour through the epic 

17th century Spanish fort Castillo de San 

Marcos for fascinating history and a trek to 

the famed Ponce de Leon’s Fountain of 

Youth Archeological Park. (You can even 

Bike riding on Anastasia State Park Beach St. Augustine, Image provided by FloridasHistoricCoast.com 

drink the water and see if it works!) There’s 

also one of the best pirate museums in the 

country, and their spooky Ghosts and 

Gravestones night tour is one of the best 

I’ve ever taken. ( Are you ready to get 

locked in an ancient jail?) Other spirits well 

worth seeking out are in the liquid form like 

the ones at The St. Augustine Distillery – 

take a guided tour and sample their wares, 

and also seek out offbeat bars like Odd 

Birds for killer craft cocktails. 

Foodies will adore the many cool cafes and 

eclectic cuisine at romantic hideaways like 

Raintree Restaurant, and an ideal way to 

sample many of them is via Savory Fare 

Food Tour City Walks. Outside of the downtown 

grid, you will need a car to explore St. 

Augustine Beach, and Anastasia State Park 

-a protected wildlife sanctuary, and a trip to 

the historic lighthouse and museum on 

Anastasia Island are all well worth the 

drive. 

Cocoa Beach & Space Coast Stars 

If you have a need for speed, drop into the 

famous Daytona International Speedway 

and see the progress on their new megavillage 

across the road, which will be a 

small resort community in its own right. 

Take a tour of the famous track and visit the 

museum full of vintage cars, too. While in 

the area, drive on to Titusville for a rare 

lunch of rock shrimp- they are famous for 

them at Dixie Crossroads Seafood 

Restaurant. 

Next check into Doubletree by Hilton on 

Cocoa Beach – it’s ocean front and handy 

to some great casual pier dining like 

Fishlips Waterfront Grill and Westgate 

Cocoa Beach Pier. It’s also a great base for 

everything space related- plan an entire 

day to visit the Kennedy Space Centrethere’s 

a LOT to see and do, and reserve 

lunch with a real astronaut as an exciting 

side dish. And for a unique outing to the 

official launch sites, take a guided bus tour 

of Cape Canaveral within the restricted 

military base- bring your passport and 

photo ID- and wear closed-toe shoes if you 

also want to climb the historic lighthouse 

on site. 

Melbourne Metamorphosis 

After Cocoa Beach, head to Melbourne’s 

Brevard Zoo for some unique kayaking 

adventures with the animals. Glide by the 

giraffes, gazelles, rhinos, and lemurs 

cavorting in their open installations. Very 

cool! And the only zoo in the US to have 

kayaking within. Then, lunch at legendary 

The Mansion-choose their top deck for 

marina views. To tour the main downtown 

area in a unique way, hop aboard a fun 

tour with TOTO Pedicabs. ( Their drivers do 

all the pedaling!) You’ll soon see how the 

once sleepy little town is beginning to 

morph into an uber trendy outpost. Old 

gas stations and post offices have turned 

into crazy bars, and gourmet candy shops 

and trendy cafes have all moved in. And 

don’t miss Hell N Blazes Brewery- an excellent 

local brewpub with a games room and 

fab beer. Also of note in town is the charming 

lemon yellow house surrounded by a 

white picket fence where Jim Morrison of 

The Doors grew up before he decided to 

“break on through to the other side” of the 

country to study film at UCLA. 

www.VisitFlorida.com 

33 


Beautiful China 

Silk Road Sites & Sounds 

For thousands of years, silk has been a commodity that has connected China with 

the far-reaching parts of the world. Whether through traders, sellers or diplomats, 

the sale of silk is part and parcel of Chinese cultural and social heritage. 

Now on the World Heritage List of UNESCO, many historical sites along the road 

offer the World Traveler a taste of various provinces in this amazing land. 

We start our journey in Jiangsu. As always, there is too much to see and do when 

you are visiting somewhere, but this trip was all about the Silk Road, so we concentrated 

on learning more. 

Edited by David J. Cox 

Gansu Province, China

35 

This coastal province is part of the 

Silk Road marine route and has 

been long known for its prosperity 

and opulence, and with sights like the 

linked network of pools, pagodas and 

pavilions at the Humble Administrator’s 

Garden, the Lion Grove Garden’s tall, 

rocky maze, and the World Heritage listed 

Chinese classical gardens of Suzhou, it is 

easy to see why! 

As with most destinations, there is far too 

much to do and see. 

Jiangsu is one of the most beautiful tourist 

destinations located on a stretch of the 

Yellow Sea on China’s east coast. Old 

China and new come together to offer a 

great trip to visitors. After exploring the 

ancient walls and tombs from the Ming 

Dynasty era, you can treat yourself to 

some Huaiyang cuisine, considered one of 

the Four Great Traditions of the culinary 

heritage of China, along with Cantonese 

cuisine, Shandong cuisine and Sichuan 

cuisine. 

A sight to behold is China’s ancient engineering 

Wonder of the World, the Grand 

Canal, which is the world’s longest canal 

and is still a vital and well used waterway 

that stretches almost 2,000 km between 

Hangzhou and Beijing. The mighty 

Yangtze River flows here as well, with 

Jiangsu 

many tours and cruises available for viewing 

the incredible features in this province. 

Jiangsu is also the best place to see the 

unique living water villages of the Yangtze 

River delta! So many of the most famous 

tourist locales can are found here. 

For fans of meditation and meditative 

spaces there is the Confucius Temple in 

Nanjing, consecrated to the famous 

philosopher and educator of ancient 

China. Over the years, it has undergone 

many changes and expanded into a complex 

that now contains the Confucius 

Temple, the China Imperial Examination 

Museum and the Xue Gong - the impressive 

Imperial Academy. 

Other treasures include the Terracotta 

warriors of Xuzhou, who are actually just 

one part of a huge museum complex. 

Visitors can get great pictures of most of 

the warriors and are introduced to the 

restoration process. It is a large museum, 

and includes a large excavated tomb, a 

"Liu Ancestral Hall" that pays tribute to the 

Liu clan (including Liu Bang, the founder 

of the Han Dynasty), and some Buddhist 

temples. 

Nanjing is also a must see, as it is not 

only the capital of Jiangsu Province and 

capital to 6 Chinese Dynasties, but is also 

capital of the Republic of China! Surprises 

abound at the Presidential palace, as this 

complex of buildings is an amazing mix of 

architectural styles from it's long history, 

and the audio tour is well worth it. The 

grounds are a wonderful and are an ideal 

place to walk around and enjoy, especially 

when the gardens are in bloom. The 

Nanjing City Museum hosts historical exhibitions 

inside the grounds of an imperial 

examination center where you can visit 

exhibitions of jewellery and silken clothing 

from many different dynasties. 

Other prefectures of the province offer 

other diversions, such as Nantong and its 

major river port near Shanghai, the industrial 

mecca of Wuxi and Zhenjiang, another 

major tourist attraction for its temples 

and museums! 


36 

Aprovince that has seen six dynasties, 

Zhejiang offers hour after 

hour of delightful visitor sights 

and sounds. Starting in Hangzhou, 

Zhejiang’s capital and the former capital 

of China, travellers will see that this city is 

China's busiest destination for domestic 

tourism and is renown for tea, silk and its 

Great West Lake. 

Whether on a cruise or on foot, West 

Lake, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a 

perfect place to spend a day. This part 

natural and part man made lake offers 

photo ops and amazing views, and the 

tales, stories and legends about it make a 

visit to the lake even more interesting. 

Other areas to visit include one of the 

most renowned Buddhist temples in 

China, the Lingyin Temple, where visitors 

can admire fascinating and intricate 

Buddhist carvings. Enjoy the sunset at the 

Dragon Well Tea Plantation, where history 

and flavour combine as you can drink tea 

in a shaded pavilion offering spectacular 

views. 

Zhejiang 

In the fascinating historic district of Anji, 

Huzhou there are very advanced ecological 

ideals and industries. This ecological 

philosophy covers tourism and the bamboo 

industry. Anji responsibly produces 12 

million commercial bamboo poles every 

year, and also has China's largest bamboo 

nursery, recognised worldwide as 

having the widest variety of bamboo. 

Moving on to Jiaxing, where the food will 

satisfy all tastes and the engineering will 

knock your socks off! Fresh fish and rice 

are staples that are turned into magical 

dishes to satisfy all tastes. The marvels of 

the resting-on-water towns Wuzhen and 

Xitang are as fascinating as they are interesting. 

In Wuzhen, most tourists often prefer 

to visit Dongzha, a sector that maintains 

the basic original layout of the town, 

and Xizha, which reproduces the ancient 

appearance of a old fashioned water 

town! 

The city of Yiwu is a perfect example of 

how the Silk Road has brought together 

cultures, as it is a city vibrant with Middle 

Eastern flavour due to a large Islamic 

business community. Yiwu also has a large 

Korean population and a huge Christian 

Church. Fun fact - Yiwu is also known as 

"sock town”, as it produces over three billion 

pairs of socks annually. For history 

buffs, the Guyue Bridge, a stone arch 

bridge built in 1213, is one of the few 

bridges of that era still standing. 

Ningbo city has a 7000-year long history, 

and it served as one of the starting points 

of the Marine Silk Road along with 

Guangzhou during the Tang Dynasty 

(618-907). Aside from the old temples 

and buildings, Ningbo has the Xikou- 

Xuedoushan Scenic Area, a beautiful scenic 

area renown for its historical links and 

beautiful scenery filled with lakes and 

mountains. The area is most renowned for 

its ancient cultural atmosphere. 


37 

Shandong is considered a birthplace 

of China's pottery, porcelain 

and silk industries. A part of the 

Silk Road, it is subdivided into Lowland 

Shandong, the river-filled area in the west 

of the province, Highland Shandong 

which is the hilly central region and 

Coastal Shandong in the east where the 

Shandong Peninsula is located. The 

province is heavily involved in trade and 

tourists can find many items like exacting 

Yantai timepieces, beautiful Zibo porcelain 

and the majestic kites of Weifang. 

But Shandong is also well recognized for 

it’s cuisine, another of the ‘traditions’ of 

Chinese cuisine. It can be divided into 

‘inland’ Shandong cuisine, the seafoodcentered 

Jiaodong cuisine in the peninsula, 

and Confucius's Mansion cuisine, an 

elaborate tradition originally intended for 

Imperial feasts. As a traveller, your palate 

will be pleased with the variety of styles 

and flavours! 

Shandong is also filled with beautiful 

landscapes, including Mount Taishan 

which is on the World Cultural and 

Natural Heritage List by UNESCO, and its 

museum is filled with cultural relics, works 

of art and stone carvings. Besides these 

historic relics, the mountain provides 

unique natural scenery with tall peaks, low 

valleys, waterfalls, and the centuries-old 

Shandong 

pines and cypresses will invite visitors to 

walk and breath in the clean, forest air. 

Mt. Laoshan is a sacred place for Taoists 

and at the belief’s peak of popularity, it 

was said that there were nine palaces, 

eight Temples and seventy-two nunneries 

on the mountain! Many have fallen into 

ruin, but of those that remain, the Taiqing 

Palace is the largest. It also has the has 

the longest history, spanning more than 

two thousand years and has been well 

preserved, which is rare for its form of 

architecture! A treat for history and religion 

fans. 

Though it may surprise some, Shandong 

also boasts Coastal Vineyards, and the 

production of wine has become the second 

largest industry in the Shandong 

Province Second only to agriculture, there 

are more than one hundred wineries 

along the Shandong Peninsula. 

History also runs through the province, 

and many ancient treasures have been 

found here. Researchers who unearthed 

clay pots at Dawenkou and Dinggongcun 

believe that the inscriptions on them are 

actually an example of the earliest written 

language of the country. There are also 

the fascinating ruins of ancient Longshan 

City, which many believe was one of 

China’s earliest cities. And finally, the portions 

of the Great Wall built here are 

believed to be the oldest parts in the 

country. 


38 

Guangxi is a highly scenic area in 

southern China blessed with a significant 

coastline on the South 

China Sea. UNESCO has placed two locations 

in this province on its list. 

The first is the unique and stunning 

Zuojiang Huashan Rock Art Cultural 

Landscape, which is a huge assembly of historical 

rock art painted on limestone cliff 

faces over many centuries. An amazing 

sight to see in person, almost beyond belief! 

The second UNESCO site is the South China 

Karst, which is described as "unrivalled in 

terms of the diversity of its karst features and 

landscapes”. The Karst is filled with underground 

drainage systems, sinkholes and 

caves. The South China Karst is considered 

one of the world’s most spectacular humid 

karst landscapes, and it is easy to see why! 

A hiker’s paradise, this area contains the 

most familiar types of karst landforms, 

including tower karst, pinnacle karst and 

cone karst formations, and also offers natural 

bridges, gorges and large cave systems. 

This is really a unique tourist stop and 

opportunity to view something really different! 

Aside from these wonders, there are many 

other places for a world traveller to investigate 

in this province. Yangshuo is a famous 

scenic town near the karst mountains, and 

visitors have plenty to enjoy. The Yangdi- 


Guangxi 

Xingping scenic area offers a "raft experience", 

that has become a new industry and 

there is also a 24km easy hike along the Li 

river. 

Guilin city is nestled within a stunning landscape 

and the city has a kind of uniqueness 

that is all its own. In the centre of the city lie 

2 lakes, Shanhu and Ronghu, remaining 

from a medieval-era moat that once surrounded 

the city. The beautiful crystal clear 

waters reflect the bamboo trees and 

strangely shaped karst hills are complimented 

by wonderful caverns and caves. The 

2000-year history has led to it being a culturally 

and historically significant city, as it 

has been the political, economic and cultural 

center of Guangxi for many years. 

Nanning is capital of the Guangxi region 

and with its warm tropical climate, it is 

known for parks such as People's Park, 

which includes expansive White Dragon 

Lake, a hilltop fort and a botanical garden. 

The city bustles with energy and has many 

attractions for visitors. Museum lovers have 

over 20 to choose from and shoppers will 

be delighted with the choices and variety of 

goods and foods available. Local cuisine is 

great, as it has been influenced by Canton, 

Sichuan, Hunan, Zhejiang, Jiangxi, and in 

recent years, Sichuan and Cantonese food 

has become really popular. Be sure to try the 

local rice noodles, chestnut rice dumplings, 

stewed duck with gingko and stewed duck 

with ginger. The city will be the focal point of 

the “new” Maritime Silk Road, as the city 

has connections to Southeast Asia and 

Guangzhou, Hong Kong and Macao. 

Even though Liuzhou is a major industrial 

city with a beautiful karst countryside. The 

city is a unique part of China and it has a 

very large population of ethnic minorities 

who bring with them many celebrations and 

festivals throughout the year. 

One visitor highlight is the Bailian Cave 

Park, whose park is excellent to explore. 

There are BBQ areas and are many open 

spaces to stretch out as well as small secluded 

places to meditate or read a book. This 

park has something for everyone, including 

a small amusement area with a few rides for 

small children area and a skating rink!

39 

Here is where the great Silk Road 

starts and where China began, 

as it was here where the Qin 

dynasty warrior emperor united much of 

the country for the first time. Shaanxi 

became the cradle of Chinese civilisation 

and the beginning of the Silk Road. 

Xian, the Capital city of the Province, has 

many attractions for all tastes, but has 

special treats for history lovers. The 

archaeological sites include an excavated 

Neolithic village and royal graves with 

museums and information centres. The 

most alluring attraction is also an essential 

visit which is the tomb of Qin Shi Huang 

and his Army of Terracotta Warriors, one 

of the world's top heritage sites! It has 

become one of the most famous archaeological 

finds in the world, and the underground 

life-size army of thousands has 

silently guarded over the soul of China's 

first unifier for more than two thousand 

years. 

Aside from the historical aspects, Xian has 

become a busy travel destination with 

restaurants, museums, ancient pagodas, 

and an interesting Muslim Quarter. The 

outskirts contain fascinating villages that 

are still operating as they have for hundreds 

of years. 

Shaanxi 

Holding a prominent place in Chinese 

military history, Yan'an city it is considered 

a revolutionary holy place in China. It was 

the military headquarters during the 

Chinese Anti-Japanese War and China's 

War of Liberation and was the location of 

the Central Committee of the Chinese 

Communist Party. Visiting the Yangjialing 

Revolutionary Site which is the former 

office of the CCP (Chinese Communist 

Party) Central Committee, is a memorable 

experience that offers a window on history. 

Open to the public since 1959, tourists 

can visit the Great Auditorium, the Office 

Building and especially the artificial caves 

carved into hillsides which were the residences 

legends like Chairman Mao! The 

exhibition also contains many relics of 

high historical importance. 

Aside from the historical tour, it has also a 

number of natural wonders, including the 

Hukou Waterfalls of the Yellow River. The 

famous river, second only to the Yangtze, 

runs through nine provinces on its way to 

the Bohai Sea and nature has seen to it 

that some magnificence can be found 

along the course. As the River flows 

through the many mountains and gorges 

to Hukou, the water tumbles over the 

rocks from the second largest waterfall in 

China. As the riverbed of the Falls resembles 

a teapot, the waterfall has been 

named Hukou Waterfalls (Kettle Spout 

Falls). A sight to see! 

The Mausoleum of Yellow Emperor is 

another must see in the province, and it 

contains many of China’s sacred spaces 

for their ancient leaders. In the main hall, 

the "Great Hall of Man and Civilizations's 

First Ancestor" there is a beautiful sculpture 

of the Emperor and a magnificent 

shrine decorated with some Chinese spiritual 

animals, a dragon, a tiger, a vermilion 

bird and a black turtle. The mausoleum’s 

aspects are matched by the surrounding 

park. It is one of the top parks in 

China and it is home to over 60,000 

mature cypress trees, 30,000 of which are 

over one thousand years old! 


40 

Gansu province in the North West 

region of China historically 

marked the ‘end or beginning’ of 

China, depending on if you were traveling 

east towards Xi'an or west towards Central 

Asia and Europe. 

UNESCO has listed several locals in 

Gansu, the first of which are the Mogao 

Caves. These magnificent cells and sanctuaries 

in caves, originally constructed in 

366AD, contain Buddhist art that dates 

from the 4th to the 14th century. Chinese 

authorities have preserved many of the 

caves with nearly 45,000 square meters of 

murals and more than 2,000 painted 

sculptures! Astounding images from 1000 

years of history offer glimpses of the past. 

One cave contains a vivid scene of cultural 

exchange along the Silk Road by showing 

a camel pulling a cart in a typical 

trade mission from a bygone period as 

well as scenes of workers in the fields and 

a line of warriors. Other images show the 

landscapes of Mount Wutai, which is an 

early example of artistic Chinese cartography. 


Gansu 

UNESCO has also listed some of the 

Zhangye Danxia Landform in Gansu 

Province. China’s ever changing landscape 

contains many different kinds of 

unique and beautiful settings. from towering 

karst mountains to grasslands to fast 

flowing rivers. But the stunning red sandstone 

beds of the Danxia Landforms are 

simply spectacular! Marked with dramatic 

colours, several Danxia Landforms are listed 

by UNESCO as World Heritage Sites 

due to their natural and visual value. 

Many look straight out of a painting! 

The Great Wall flows through the province 

as well, and it houses Jiayuguan, the 

Wall’s most intact ancient military building 

still standing today. Dubbed the "First and 

Greatest Pass Under Heaven", the pass 

was a key waypoint of the ancient Silk 

Road. Touring the area, a visit to 

Jiayuguan city is a must as well. Lying in 

the Gobi Desert between Lanzhou and 

Dunhuang, the city started as a fortress 

built to protect the last frontier of the 

Chinese empire. Later it became an 

important part of the Silk Road and the 

first pass at the west end of the Great 

Wall. 

Tianshui is another visitor’s paradise for 

history and art. The city and its surroundings 

have played a vital role in the early 

history of China, as evidenced by all of 

the historic sites there. The large Dadiwan 

Site is a New Stone Age archeological site 

that dates back 7,800 to 4,800 years! 

Preserved homes and tools help tourists 

explore the ancient history of the city and 

area. Many cultural relics have been 

unearthed including simple chipped stone 

tools, specialized implements, and colored 

pottery. An interesting window on ancient 

China. 

The province is also home to Xiahe , 

home to the Labrang Tibetan Buddhist 

monastery, one of the largest Tibetan 

Buddhist monasteries outside of Tibet. 

Spiritualists will enjoy the grand temples, 

variety of the festivals and the magnificent 

peaceful feeling present in the mountain 

forests.

41 

China’s history and longevity have 

given way to many locations that 

are protected under the UNESCO 

listings. In Ningxia, the Western Xia 

Imperial Tombs in the vast Gobi desert 

have offered a wealth of information 

about the Western Xia Dynasty. The glorious 

layout, tiered tomb walls, high towers 

and various mausoleum buildings confer 

a grandiose vision of the dynasty’s heyday. 

They are a must see for all visitors. 

The region also contains the Helan 

Mountains, an isolated desert mountain 

range that have recently become home to 

China’s Emerging wine industry. The entire 

region has seen heavy investment from 

both the government and businesses, and 

the ‘fruit’ of their labours are delicious! 

The capital, Yinchuan, lies in the middle of 

the Ningxia Plain and is sheltered by the 

high ranges of the Helan Mountains. Here 

you can find a high concentration of rock 

art. 

The main concentration of carvings is in 

Helankou, a gorge cutting through the 

mountain chain, and is called the 

Helankou Rock Engravings Park. They are 

the combined efforts of the nomads to the 

north and the farmers in the south to celebrate 

the two lifestyles. A treat for the eyes 

and a wondrous legacy through art. 

Ningxia 

Zhongwei is a great place to take the family, 

especially the Shapotou tourist area 

that has a desert, a mountain, a river, and 

beautiful gardens. Shapotou is near the 

Tengger Desert, which is considered one 

of the most beautiful deserts in China. 

From the area’s hilltop, visitors can gaze 

at the desert to the north, and the oasis to 

the south. There are some unique activities 

as well, including a 1000-metre-long, 

100-metre-high sand slide! 

By far, the Yellow River Drift is an adventure 

every visitor should enjoy. Floating 

along the Yellow River on a raft is scary at 

first, but the course itself is quite safe. 

Experienced rafters ensure that the ride is 

safe and help passengers learn about and 

appreciate the landscapes along the way. 

Tongxin is home to one of oldest mosques 

in all of China. The Great Mosque in 

Wuzhong City displays typical Han architecture, 

well, except for the crescent moon 

on the roof! Built in the 14th century, it 

has played a part in the foundation of the 

People's Republic of China, as it was host 

to a public meeting that led to the formation 

of the Yuwang Hui Autonomous 

Government in 1939! A fascinating place 

to visit and a must see. 


42 

Qinghai province is located south 

of the Republic of Mongolia, east 

of Xinjiang, and north of Tibet in 

the far northern reaches of the massive 

Tibetan Plateau. UNESCO has placed the 

Quinghai Lake in the Qinghai Hoh Xil 

National Natural Reserve on their list. It has 

become a bird watcher’s paradise and the 

ecological environment and biodiversity 

offers a great deal for visitors, naturalists, 

scientists and nature lovers. It is a huge 

inland saline lake watershed and the surrounding 

streams and rivers have created 

the unique plateau wetland ecosystem 

which makes an ideal habitat for many wild 

animals, including the Tibetan Antelope 

and the endangered Przewalski's gazelle 

(Procapra przewalskii). 

A second UNESCO listing is the majestic 

Yardangs landscape clusters in the arid and 

desert regions. Dozens of meters high, 

these ridge-shaped Yardangs are imposing 

and some even look like a large fleet of 

ships in a vast sea. The most typical ones 

are shaped like towers or columns, but 

there are some that appear in animal 

shapes like eagles, horses and turtles. It is 

very surreal and visiting it is like visiting 

Mars! 

There are many interesting areas to visit in 

this province, and Qinghaihu National Park 

is an amazing stop. The park contains the 

Qinghai 

largest lake in China, and the Bird Island 

National Park, one of the world’s most 

important wetlands, is under the protection 

of the International Wetland Protection 

Treaty. Bird lovers know that this park is one 

of the best bird refuges in the world, but it 

can be equally beautiful for regular tourists! 

As well, the annual Tour of Qinghai Lake is 

a professional road bicycle racing race held 

since 2002. The race is sanctioned by the 

International Cycling Union (UCI) as a 2HC 

race as part of the UCI Asia Tour. Camping 

is also an option, with lakeside lots and 

sunrises so spectacular that you will never 

want it to end. 

Another park, the HuZhu BeiShan National 

Forest Park, is a beautiful forest park with 

mountains, valleys and lakes with stunning 

waterfalls as well. The mountains and valleys 

are beautiful, and the drive there was 

spectacular. On the Langshidang side of 

the park there are hotels and tourist welcoming 

centres. The Zhalonggou side is a 

little more remote and quiet. The Zha Long 

Temple, a small Buddhist temple, is the only 

sight other than lots of small farms with 

cows and other animals, and as you get to 

the Park there is waterfall near the parking 

area! 

Huangzhong is the home of the famous 

Kumbum Monastery, a fascinating place 

that offers visitors a glimpse at a real, working 

monastery with monks at their prayers 

to the Buddha. Here you can see the monks 

working the prayer wheels and going about 

their day’s labours. The tour offers a trip to 

the Dalai Lama’s residence, which was simple, 

quiet and peaceful – just as you would 

imagine! 

In Golmud, the second largest city in 

Qinghai, we find the start of the Qinghai- 

Tibet Railway. Taking the train allows 

tourists to travel through the province’s 

amazing Chaerhan Salt Lake. More than 

160 kilometers long and 30 wide, it is surrounded 

by endless desert. It is a sight to 

behold, as on days with lots of sun, the surface 

of the lake looks like a huge mirror or 

a boundless sea. A must see! 


43 

Xinjiang is located in the North 

West of China, in the Mongolian 

Uplands and was a key city on the 

Silk Road and a hub for east-west cultural 

exchanges in ancient times. 

Visiting here is a treat and UNESCO has 

listed Xinjiang Tianshan, part of one of the 

largest mountain ranges in the world, the 

Tianshan mountain system. Whether driving 

or biking or hiking, the beauty of this 

place is undeniable. Snowy mountains 

glaciers, forests and meadows, clear rivers 

and lakes that have remained undisturbed 

for ages. Added to this natural beauty, 

UNESCO also notes that the landscapes 

contrast with the neighbouring desert, 

offering the best of opportunities for photographers 

and naturists. Even more, the 

ecosystems of the site have been in place 

since the Pliocene epoch and offer biologists 

and scientists an exceptional example 

of ongoing biological and ecological evolutionary 

progression. In addition to this 

scientific marvel, the site continues into the 

Taklimakan Desert, one of the world’s 

largest and highest deserts! Xinjiang 

Tianshan is, above all, a home for some 

rare and endangered species of plants 

and animals. 

The Xinjiang Silk Road Museum is a must 

visit for history fans. In the Museum, visitors 

learn about the civilizations of the 

Xinjiang 

ancient region and explore the influence 

of China in the area. The museum 

includes sections that explore history, pastoral 

arts, jade and other sections that are 

as fascinating as they are informative. 

Karakol Lake is a magnificent lake surrounded 

by snow-covered mountains. The 

lake is a destination of choice for travellers 

for its beautiful scenery and clear 

water, whose color ranges from a dark 

green to azure and light blue. 

Tianshan Tianchi Lake is another beautiful 

lake surrounded by mountains. After 

climbing several thousand meters to the 

top of the mountain, you can take a trolley 

until you reach the lake. Picturesque and 

breathtaking, you can take a short boat 

ride around the lake or hike the mountains! 

For a change of pace, a visit to the capital 

city Urumqi is just the thing. Here, highrise 

apartments and business centres 

replace the peace and quite of the countryside. 

Though not an historic city, its 

museum is excellent and there are some 

very interesting districts and tourist attractions 

like Hongshan Park. This is a great a 

great place to walk and enjoy great views 

of the city, best from the hilltop pagoda, 

which has become the city’s icon. 


Winnipeg Connections 

Article & Photography by Steve Gillick 

Travellers seeking that important connection 

with the destination they 

visit, need search no further. 

Winnipeg, Manitoba has been at the forefront 

of ‘connections’ for 6000 years. 

The Forks, where the Red and Assiniboine 

Rivers meet, is a great place to start, with 

Parks Canada tours that provide a quick 

and easy history (‘6000 years in 60 

Minutes’) while walking the land and 

explaining the buildings, monuments and 

plaques that tell the story of the city. 

The Oodena Celebration Circle is front and 

centre at the Forks. The Ojibway word 

meaning ‘the heart of the community’ honours 

the connection between the sky and 

the earth, that includes lenses through 

which visitors can peer at night to view the 

mythological constellations that support the 

creation beliefs of Indigenous people 

around the world. 

And with the message that every metre of 

earth at the Forks represents 1000 years of 

history, our guide spoke about the 

Indigenous groups who called the Forks 

their meeting place, the arrival of the 

Hudson’s Bay Company’s fur traders in the 

17th century, the Selkirk Settlers in the 18th 

Century, the role of the Métis in building the 

land, the success of Louis Riel in defending 

the rights of the Métis in the 19th Century, 

and ultimately the creation of the Province 

of Manitoba in 1870. And each one of the 

guides, curators and museum directors we 

met throughout our visit spoke about the 

vital connections between the people and 

the land. 

The directions to walk from the Forks to the 

Saint Boniface Museum are easy. Take the 

Esplanade Riel on the Provencher Bridge, 

past “Mon Ami Riel’ (My friend Riel), the 

only restaurant-on-a-bridge in North 

America, to the giant bust of Louis Riel 

down the street. This is where the Museum 


Director, Vania Gagnon told us about Jean- 

Baptist Lagimodière, a fur trader, and his 

wife Marie-Anne Gabouray, who was the 

first European woman to marry a French 

Canadian and settle in Red River 

(Winnipeg) in 1812. One of the couple’s 

children married a man by the name of 

Louis Riel, who had a son, named Louis 

Riel, who became the founder of Manitoba. 

And Vania Gagnon knows, as her maiden 

name is Lagimodière and she is Louis Riel’s 

first cousin, five times removed. 

Darlene Wight at the WAG, the Winnipeg 

Art Gallery, has an envious job. As the 

Curator of Inuit Art, she not only travels to 

various communities in northern Manitoba, 

Ontario and Nunavut, but she brings back 

Aboriginal myths conveyed through beautifully 

carved sculptures, prints, drawings, 

textiles, dolls and clothing. In fact the WAG 

has the largest collection of Inuit Art in the 

world. A small portion is on display in various 

museum galleries while the others 

(13,000 pieces in total) rest in a closed vault 

(that I was allowed to visit), waiting for the 

new Inuit Art Centre to open in 2019. 

And for those looking for a more modest 

collection of Indigenous art, Neechi 

Commons is the place to go. Louise 

Champagne, the President of the Co-op 

explained that Neechi is a Cree word that 

implies ‘relationships’ and community connections. 

The Commons includes the 

Neechi Niche consignment store (that 

began as a way for locals to barter homemade 

crafts, such as moccasins, for groceries), 

Kookum’s (Grandmother’s) Bakery 

that specializes in Bannock (the traditional 

Indigenous Canadian bread), a grocery 

store, and an entire wall featuring the works 

of local artists, which also serves as a touch 

of colour, charm and visual conversation for 

the diners in the Bison Berry Restaurant. This 

is where I had my Bonnie Burger, consisting 

of a Bison patty with spinach, goat cheese, 

mozzarella and sautéed onions, on a 

Bannock Bun. It was so good and filling that 

I couldn’t finish my delicious dessert of Wild 

Rice Pudding! 

For an exciting experience of a different 

kind, Winnipeg’s Exchange District is a 

National Historic Site containing the largest 

collection of Heritage buildings on the continent. 

Festivals, shops, art galleries, theatres 

and restaurants are the hallmark of 

the area. One of my favourite places for 

lunch or dinner is the Peasant Cookery. 

Aside from their excellent cocktails and wine 

list, the food is simply amazing (try the King 

Salmon). 

In the days of the Fur Traders however, the 

main food was Buffalo meat in the form of 

Pemmican, a powder-like, high protein, 

easy to carry, nutriment. Today, visitors can 

learn about Buffalo first hand at Fort Whyte 

Alive, just south of the city. On the Bison 

Safari, visitors get up-close-and-personal 

with 30 or so adult Bison and new-born 

calves that are grazing, nursing, sleeping 

and wallowing in the dirt. 

And with Buffalo in mind, we visited the 

Manitoba Museum where a life-size diorama 

of a Métis Buffalo hunt near the 

entrance ensures that visitors appreciate the 

contribution of the Métis and the importance 

of the buffalo to the history of the 

province. The Museum collection includes 

some 26,000 artifacts from the Hudson’s 

Bay Company, along with exhibits that 

showcase the Inuit as well as First Nations 

such as the Dene, Algonquin, Cree,and 

Ojibway. 

In an effort to dispel the believe that 

Canadian tourism consists of “Mounties, 

Mountains and Moose”, the Oak Hammock 

Marsh, about 40 minutes north of 

Winnipeg, offers a fascinating adventure 

into wetlands, wildlife and wonderment. 

This is where I learned that my wing span 

(actually my stretched-out arms) was the 

same as a Great Grey Owl, which coincidentally 

is the Provincial Bird of Manitoba. 

On the boardwalk through the marsh, we 

feasted on the cucumber/watermelon taste 

of cattail stems, as well as the sights and 

sounds of Redhead Ducks, Green-winged 

Teals, Red-winged Blackbirds, American 

White Pelicans and Tree Swallows. While the 

muskrats and beavers seemed to be sleeping 

in their dens, a colony of Richardson’s 

Ground Squirrels was actively scampering 

in and out of their burrows. 

One of the highlights of my visit was 

45 

the ‘Bird in the Hand Experience’ that 

involves banding birds. After their capture 

in special nets, each bird has it’s leg fitted 

with an identification band, their wing 

length measured and their belly fat checked 

to see if they are about to migrate or have 

just completed part of the migratory route 

that stretches from the Yukon to the Gulf of 

Mexico. The birds are then weighed and 

released. I was thrilled to personally hold 

and release two tiny Yellow-rumped 

Warblers. 

But without doubt, one of Winnipeg’s main 

attractions is the Canadian Museum for 

Human Rights. The stunning design by 

Antoine Predock fulfilled the architect’s 

three goals: to showcase Canada, to welcome 

the people of the world into the building, 

and to have the design incorporate the 

perspective of the Indigenous people. 

Connecting the earth to the sky, the building 

design features four roots representing 

Mother Earth, prairie grasses, a cloud that 

mimics the wings of a dove (and represents 

peace), all rising to the Tower of Hope. 

Throughout the Museum galleries, the 

theme that “All human beings are born free 

and equal in dignity and rights” is presented 

with a reassuring sub-theme of “moving 

from darkness to light”. For visitors who 

take the Indigenous Mikinak-Keya Spirit 

Tour, they will learn about the Seven Sacred 

Animals and their teachings that are found 

throughout the building: The Buffalo 

(Respect), Eagle (Love), Bear (Courage), 

Sabe (Honesty), Beaver (Wisdom), Wolf 

(Humility) and Turtle (Truth). This is a 

Museum experience like none other. 

And when you experience Winnipeg you 

quickly come to realize that this is a city like 

no other. Winnipeg is a vibrant, exciting city 

that responds to the needs and special 

interests of visitors and provides opportunities 

at every step for physical, visual and 

spiritual connections with the land of the 

people. 

www.travelmanitoba.com 


Atlantic Arctic Indian Pacific Southern Ocean 

C r u i s i n g w i t h 

W O R L D 

Traveler 

C RUISING 

This Photo: MSC MERAVIGLIA 

SECTION 

Cruise News - page 48 - 49 

Cruising Cuba with Celestyal’s Crystal - page 52 

Inaugural Voyages - page 54 

Cruising with Tully Luxury Travel - page 56 

Adriatic Aegean Mediterranean Caribbean Baltic Black South-China Sea 

Danube Main Mekong Moselle Nile Rhine Rhône Saône Seine Yangtze 

Come With Us & Sail The World!

48 

AmaWaterways Avalon Azamara Carnival Celebrit 

C r u i s e N e w s 

Norwegian, Alibaba 

Partner to Enter 

China Cruise 

Market 

Norwegian Cruise Lines recently 

announced that it was partnering 

with Chinese commerce giant 

Alibaba Group to help the cruise 

line reach customers in the growing 

China market. The partnership will see Alibaba supporting Norwegian Cruise 

Line with customer engagement, online-to-offline experiences, and data 

insights. The new 3,883-passenger Norwegian Joy will begin sailing from 

Shanghai at the end of June. The ship is Norwegian Cruise Line’s first ship custom-designed 

for the Chinese market, combining the best of the East and the 

West. The ship will officially be christened during an event in Shanghai on June 

27, featuring Chinese pop star Wang Leehom. 

www.ncl.com 

Crystal Announces Complete Redesigns of 

Symphony & Serenity 

The most awarded luxury ships in the world are set to undergo their most extensive 

redesigns in their respective histories, as Crystal unveils the complete plans for 

Crystal Symphony’s and Crystal Serenity’s dry dock transformations. In what the 

company is calling the “Evolution of Crystal 

Luxury,” in 2017 and 2018, Crystal will 

embark on the multi-million-dollar investment 

that will see the two ships reimagined 

to new standards of innovative luxury. The 

plans for Crystal’s two ocean ships are the 

latest in its tremendous brand expansion, 

which will also see new river yachts, new 

ocean-going vessels and a privatelyowned 

Boeing 777 join the fleet in the next 

three years. 

www.crystalcruises.com 

Avalon Widens the 

Possibilities to Sail Asia’s 

Most Narrow Waterways 

A journey on one of Asia’s great 

rivers offers a tapestry of fascinating 

sights, colorful cultures and 

ancient traditions. A journey on 

Avalon Waterways’ smaller ships 

widens the possibilities, getting travelers closer to all the must-see sights and introducing 

them to new destinations, locals and their way of life. On the heels of unveiling two, 

NEW 36-guest Suite Ships® on the Irrawaddy and Mekong Rivers in two years, Avalon 

Waterways has announced plans to cruise farther into the Far East by increasing its fleet 

– and vacation portfolio – with another Suite Ship for the Mekong River – the Avalon 

Saigon – and new ways to see and explore Southeast Asia. 

www.avalonwaterways.com 

The re-imagined Delfin III (formerly 

the Amazon Discovery) launched earlier 

this year and offers three, four 

and six-night cruises in 2017 through 

the Pacaya Samiria National Reserve, 

the largest and most richly diverse 

area in the Amazon region. 

The vessel provides guests with an 

immersive rainforest experience while 

treating them to the highest level of 

luxury. The ship has a capacity for up 

to 43 passengers and is furnished 

with the finest details: hardwood 

floors, designer furniture, and handmade 

Peruvian artifacts. Guests have 

the option of four room classes: on 

the first deck there are eight suites 

complete with floor to ceiling 

panoramic windows, plus two spacious 

corner suites facing out the 

front of the ship. The second deck is 

comprised of 10 upper suites and the 

largest suite, the Owner's Suite. The 

top deck features a beautiful 

indoor/outdoor lounge, sundeck with 

plunge pool, a spa and gym, and 

bar. 

www.delfinamazoncruises.com 

Royal-Caribbean Scenic Seabourn SeaDream Si

y Costa Crystal Cunard Disney Holland America 

49 

Contiki and U by Uniworld Launch 

River Cruising for the Millennial Market 

Contiki is to begin selling U by Uniworld, a new type of river 

cruising product designed for travellers between the ages of 

21-45 launched by sister company Uniworld. 

U by Uniworld brings a Contiki touch to the Uniworld River 

cruising experience, with inclusions relevant to the millennial 

traveller. Ships offer sunrise yoga on deck and bikes on board 

for exploring each destination, allowing travellers to stay 

active while indulging in included wine tasting and expert 

cocktail mixology classes. For the night owls, there are two 

bars to choose from, as well as a rooftop lounge where local 

guest DJs will be invited aboard to host exclusive parties in an 

open-air environment. The whole experience offers a slower pace of travel that provides a different perspective on Europe, travelling 

on some of the world’s most iconic rivers. 

Travellers can select from four U by Uniworld river cruising itineraries, offering trips of eight days in duration: The Seine Experience, 

All in on Germany, The Danube Flow and Rolling on the Rhine along the Rhine, Main, Danube and Seine rivers. The river cruises 

incorporate overnight stops and longer stays in major cities including Paris, Vienna, Amsterdam and Budapest. All trips include 14 

meals, welcome reception, dedicated U Cruise host, eight included excursions and 12 U Time optional adventures for travellers to 

enjoy. On-board amenities include a gym, a cocktail bar serving up a signature U cocktail, and energetic and friendly crew to take 

care of your needs whether onboard or onshore. 

The river cruises will run throughout the European summer months with 18 departures dates on each trip itinerary from March – 

November, with the first departure in March 2018. 

contiki.com 

VIKING RIVER CRUISES UNVEILS 

NEW SHIP DESIGN IN EGYPT 

All-Suite Viking Ra Will Begin Sailing New Nile River 

Cruisetour in Spring 2018 

Viking River Cruises has announced details of the newest addition to 

its river fleet, Viking Ra. Recently acquired, the vessel has been 

stripped down to the steel to undergo a complete renovation that 

will reflect Viking’s award-winning Scandinavian design. Tailored to 

an intimate sailing experience for just 48 guests, Viking Ra will sail 

the Nile River on a new Egypt cruisetour, Pharaohs & Pyramids, that 

will launch in March 2018. 

“Egypt is one of the most intriguing countries in the world, and it 

remains a top destination for many of our guests,” said Torstein 

Hagen, Chairman of Viking Cruises. “For two decades, we have led 

the industry in river cruising with our innovative ship design and itineraries 

that bring our guests closer to the cultures of the world. We 

are committed to Egypt, and with the introduction of Viking Ra, we 

look forward to providing our award-winning service to our guests 

on the Nile – and to their experiencing this culturally rich region in 

the Viking way.” 

Viking Ra Designed for Destination Cruising 

The newly rebuilt, all-suite Viking Ra will boast 24 staterooms that 

will exclusively accommodate 48 Viking guests for an intimate cruising 

experience. Named in honor the Egyptian sun god Ra, Viking 

Ra’s name also pays homage to the great Norwegian explorer 

Thor Heyerdahl and his papyrus-reed boats Ra and Ra II. 

Designed by experienced nautical architects and engineers, 

including the same interior design team responsible for the 

award-winning fleet of Viking Longships®, Viking Ra will be a 

state-of-the art ship with the clean, elegant Scandinavian design 

for which Viking is known blended with local influences like traditional 

geometric Arabic patterns and terrazzo floors. Viking Ra will 

help guests immerse themselves in local surroundings and will 

feature: All Suite Staterooms, Pool and Two Jacuzzis, Spa, 

Onboard Dining, Bar and Lounge and Enriching Entertainment. 

www.vikingrivercruises.com 

Artist Rendering 

Hurtigruten MSC Norwegian Oceania Ponant Princess Regent 

versea Star-Clippers Uniworld Viking Windstar

52 

Cruising Cuba with 

Celestyal’s Crystal 

by Olivia Balsinger 

Cuba has resided at the top of my 

travel bucket list for as long as I can 

remember. Maybe it has something 

to do with my affinity with Dirty Dancing, in 

my opinion one of the most exquisite movies 

of all time. Or perhaps it has something to 

do with the fascinating contrast between 

how different our cultures are and yet how 

close our geography. Even more, it could be 

the the people, the history, the revolutionary 

spirit lingering in the air, the lack of advertisements 

saturating the cityscapes. 

Whatever the reason was, two things were 

certain: First, I knew I needed to visit this 

lively yet mysterious island. 

And second, when the opportunity arose for 

me to embark on Celestyal Cruises sevenday 

itinerary circumnavigating Cuba on the 

Crystal, I knew that any prior obligations 

would be put on the back burner. 

Though I had never pictured my first venture 

to Cuba being on a cruise ship, in retrospect 

I believe it is one of the most comprehensive 

ways to see as many pockets of this multifaceted 

country as possible. 

The Celestyal Experience 

In November Celestyal announced that 

Crystal would be sailing to Cuba yearround, 

after five years of seasonal journeys. 

While costs of cabin vary by size and season, 

all are inclusive of shore excursions, 

meals, onboard presentations, gratuities 

and port charges. Drink packages (alcoholic 

and non-alcoholic) are not included and 

must be purchased separately for a nominal 

fee. 

Day One: Montego Bay, Jamaica 

I began my journey on a Friday in Montego 

Bay, Jamaica, which is one of the two possible 

embarkations (the other being Havana 

on the subsequent Monday). I spent my 

morning exploring the colorful town known 

for its reggae music, hospitality and fishing 

villages, prior to arriving at the terminal 

(about a 15-minute drive from Sangster 

International Airport) mid afternoon. 

After a swift boarding process, I attended a 

presentation on Cuban visual arts and culture, 

prepping us for the week to come. 

We set sail for the island in the most Cuban 

way possible: with mojitos flowing and a 

groove in our step at the ship’s disco. 

Santiago de Cuba 

Santiago de Cuba, the former capital on the 

Eastern tip and Cuba’s second largest city, is 

an essential first stop for understanding 

Cuba’s intricate history. Santiago significantly 

pulsates its Afro-Cuban roots; accordingly, 

Celestyal’s itinerary focused on bringing 

this pivotal chapter in the country's history 

book to the forefront: We listened to speakers 

discuss the city’s significance at the Afro- 

Cuban Cultural center, watched (and participated!) 

in a lively dance performance and 

wandered through The Revolutionary 

Square. 

Santiago is also known as the birthplace of 

the Cuban Revolution, as it is here where 

Olivia Balsinger

Fidel Castro first attacked the country’s army 

barracks in 1963 and where he chose to rest 

after his recent death. Our tour group took 

a special detour to the graveyard and witness 

this moment of history, melding past 

and present. 

Full Day at Sea 

On the third day of our journey, we sailed 

from Santiago to Havana. Despite the 

Crystal having modest recreational facilities, 

I never once found myself twiddling thumbs 

in boredom. While there may not be an 

IMAX movie theater or miniature golf course 

onboard, I continued to learn about Cuba’s 

storied past-- from stimulating lectures on 

topic ranging from Cuban musical instruments 

and religious history to cooking classes 

with Cuban chefs. 

Havana 

Our first day in the capital gave us “a real 

taste of Havana” beginning in the Old City 

Center, comprising of a stunning mix of 

Baroque monuments and colorful private 

residences. Our guide, a Havana native, 

was an exceptional spokeswoman, seamlessly 

weaving personal anecdotes into the 

nation’s intricate history book. She led us on 

a walking tour through Old Havana 

(Habana Vieja), where we saw Saint Francis 

of Assisi Square, Cathedral Square and the 

Royal Forces castle. 

Our group then visited the outdoor mosaic 

instillations of legendary Cuban ceramicist 

and graphic artist, Jose Fuster, who famously 

turned around a somewhat depressed 

and grim neighborhood by way of his art. 

That evening we witnessed a spectacle of a 

performance at the Tropicana—one of the 

few nightclubs that survived (and thrived!) 

during the Revolution. 

Following an evening at the legendary 

Tropicana club, I woke up in Havana, admittedly 

exhausted yet eager to continue exploring. 

I spent the morning visiting both The 

Fine Arts Museum and the neighboring 

Museum of the Revolution (Museo de la 

Revolución). Both were stunning insights into 

Olivia Balsinger 

how Cuba is portrayed to Cubans. 

Afterwards I dined in a Cuban paladar—a 

restaurant run by self-employers, normally 

in private homes. The delicious spread consisted 

of rice, beans and tres leches cake, 

which I indulged surrounded by warmth and 

hospitality in a converted and charming 

Cuban living room. 

I then took a quintessential ride around town 

in a 1958 hot pink Cadillac, blasting Cuban 

salsa music, the salty Atlantic Ocean breeze 

tickling my nostrils on El Malecon, Havana’s 

roadway parallel to the ocean. 

We spent our sixth day on board sailing 

from Havana towards Cienfuegos, on the 

southern coast, with a plethora of activities 

to enjoy. 

Trinidad 

On the seventh day, we boarded a bus to 

Trinidad, so pristinely preserved, we may 

have been stepping into a page from a history 

book. All my senses were stimulated as 

I walked about town—I enjoyed simultaneously 

listening to the sultry tones of a Cuban 

street band (and, yes, I also participated by 

shaking maracas!), catching whiffs of dust 

from years past mixing with fried plantains 

from the local paladar and ogling at bright 

building pastels. Trinidad is where tourists 

from North America experience untouched 

Cuba. 

Montego Bay 

The last day of our cruise brought us back to 

Montego Bay and although I knew I would 

very much miss Cuba, I disembarked with a 

bottle of Havana club rum, two cigars and, 

of course, memories that will last lifetimes. 

Where You’ll Sleep 

The Crystal boasts 476 staterooms (317 are 

outside cabins and 163 are inside cabins.) 

There are 15 cabin types to choose from 

aboard the ship, accommodating individual 

needs and budgets. Staterooms are 

equipped with air conditioning, telephones, 

televisions and hairdryers. 

Passengers may pay for Wi-Fi to enjoy anywhere 

on board, which is certainly helpful as 

internet connections are unreliable and rare 

on land. 

Where You’ll Eat & Drink 

Though I’ve never been one to flock to buffets 

or especially enjoy those quintessential 

“cruise ship meals,” I was pleasantly 

surprised with Crystal's dining. 

For more casual dining, guests may opt for 

the 9th floor self-serve Leda Buffet for 

breakfast, lunch or dinner. The two more 

formal dining rooms on board, The 

Olympus Restaurant and The Amalthia 

Restaurant, are that perfect balance of 

sophistication and authenticity. I was delighted 

to have choice of multiple Cuban dishes 

during lunch and dinners. 

After dinner, I would often find myself in the 

Eros Lounge, relaxing and unwinding 

among a crowd of fellow passengers. With 

a martini in hand and the onboard band's 

melody in the air, I'd reflect on my day of 

adventures and wander what next is in store. 

Feeling restless? Check out the panoramic 

Horizons Bar on the top deck, which 

becomes a popular disco for young and 

young-at-heart alike and is open until the 

wee hours of the morning. 

Vamos a Cuba! 

The Celestyal journey to Cuba is perfect for 

seasoned travelers who hope to do more 

than lounging poolside and sipping a margarita. 

The program is for the intellectually 

curious, young and old. On my journey, I 

met fellow travelers from all walks of life. I 

would ask them why they were here and 

they each said something similar. They had 

a desire to learn and experience the intricacies 

of a country that for so long had suffered 

from civil war, invasion and political 

polarization. 

Celestyal allows visitors the opportunity to 

witness the Cuba of today, a bright and colorful 

nation that acknowledges its history, 

but also boasts a sense of exuberant pride. 

It is hard to explore this island country with 

Celestyal Cruises and not become captivated 

by the history and the beauty of the 

Cuban people. 

www.celestyalcruises.com 

53 


Seven Reasons an Inaugural Voyage May Be the Ultimate Cruise Vacation 

Celebrity Edge Villa 

Glamorous Champagne Christenings & Outlandish Celebrations 

by Cruise Compete

An inaugural cruise: The phrase 

brings to mind the exclusive nature 

of glamorous champagne christenings, 

celebrity godmothers and brand-new 

ship features and amenities. Avid cruisers 

add these voyages to the top their vacation 

lists, due to the many perks and 

bonuses of the sailings. 

CruiseCompete has compiled a list of 

seven things to love about an inaugural 

cruise. 

1. Global Celebrations 

Depending on the significance of the ship, 

there may be a very impressive pompand-circumstance 

inaugural ceremony, 

with esteemed guests from all over the 

world. Then too, the arrival of a new ship 

in port may be cause for local celebrations 

all along the voyage, with festivities in several 

cities during the course of the itinerary. 

2. A Memorable Voyage 

The lines frequently offer mementos to 

passengers of a maiden voyage. When 

Cunard's Queen Mary 2 launched, she 

offered "Limited Edition" QM2 maidenvoyage 

commemorative items, including t- 

shirts, playing cards, cups and saucers, 

stamps, baseball caps and key chains… 

and even painted ostrich eggs! These 

small souvenirs are a tangible way to 

remember your voyage. Sometimes the 

lines even go a bit further, giving each 

cabin a very special present, usually customized, 

worth $50 or more. 

3. Introductory Pricing 

To create interest in the ship, some maiden 

voyages offer rates on an itinerary that will 

be priced significantly higher in the future. 

Since public opinion has not yet been 

formed and the cruise lines are eager to 

put their best foot forward, the inaugural 

sailing of a ship can sometimes translate 

to a steal on cruise fares. 

4. The Excitement of Exclusivity 

You’ve been written into a page of history 

as a member of the “elite” group of passengers 

present for the very first sailing of 

a new ship. Not to mention, there are 

some serious bragging rights that go 

along with being able to say, "I was on the 

maiden voyage of that beautiful ship". 

5. Beyond Special Amenities 

Positive word of mouth is the key to better 

booking for future sailings, so the line may 

offer extra special food options, entertainment 

and activities. Passengers on a maiden 

voyage can take advantage of perks 

that may not exist on future sailings. 

6. An Immaculate, Sparkling 

Environment. 

Just like a new house, or car, there’s a certain 

appeal to being on a brand-new 

ship…. where accommodations have no 

wear and tear, and there’s no sign of the 

passengers who have come before. Every 

part of the ship is in untouched condition – 

the rooms are pristine, the carpets spotless, 

and every dish, sheet and towel has 

never been used. Is there such a thing as a 

new-ship smell? There’s only one way to 

find out. 

7. Customized Services 

Because the shipboard routine is still fluid, 

the ship’s staff tends to be quite flexible 

with things like menus, seating options and 

the scheduling of on-board activities. There 

is an accommodating flow in areas that 

simply won’t be possible on later cruises as 

schedules solidify. 

There is unquestionably something special 

about being on board a cruise ship during 

the inaugural cruise, but these voyages do 

fill up early. 

There are currently 79 ships scheduled to 

debut from 2017 to 2020. To research 

upcoming maiden voyages, please visit the 

Inaugural Cruises section on: 

www.cruisecompete.com 

55 

MSC Seaside 

Carnival Vista Skyride 


56 

All aboard! Debunking popular cruise myths 

by Tully Luxury Travel 

Cruising is one of the most popular 

ways to travel the world, with more 

than 20 million people heading for 

the seas each year. But, armed with images 

of bland food buffets and overcrowded 

ports, some still view cruising as a shameful 

stain on real travel. Here at Tully Luxury 

Travel, our experts have been cruising for 

three decades and sending our clients on 

dazzling holidays around the world on 

ships of all kinds. We truly believe that in 

today’s cruise market, there is a perfect 

ship for every kind of traveler. Don’t believe 

us? Read on as we debunk the most common 

myths and misconceptions about 

cruising. 

Myth: I’ll be so bored! 

Truth: Being “stuck” on a ship with nothing 

to do is one of the top reasons why travelers 

overlook cruising as a viable option for 

travel. While cruise ships vary in style and 

size, all of them contain a world of options 

for onboard entertainment. The key is 

choosing the right ship for your entertainment 

needs. Some of the large mega-ships 

have everything from fitness centres and 

multiplex theatres to multiple restaurants, 

nightclubs, casinos and Broadway-style 

shows — not to mention a dizzying array of 

waterslides, pools and glitzy attractions. On 

these ships, you would be hard-pressed to 

enjoy all the offerings during a weeklong 

sailing. 

Different cruise companies offer other types 

of entertainment. Enjoy lectures and enrichment 

programs? Some Cunard ships offer 

technology classes, workshops from the 

Royal Academy of Dramatic Arts and 

stargazing presentations from the Royal 

Astronomical Society. 

Myth: I’m too young for a cruise! 

Truth: At some point in time, cruising got 

the reputation of being a pastime of retired 

folks. Although many retirees have discovered 

the joy of cruising, this is certainly not 

the only demographic that can enjoy a 

good cruise. Different companies offer 

activities and itineraries for all ages and 

group sizes, including solo travelers and 

multi-generational families. 

Expeditions cruises can include adventure 

activities such as hiking volcanos, biking on 

mountains and diving in coral reefs. Yacht 

cruises offer water adventurers even more 

options. Crystal’s Esprit, for example, 

comes with top-of-the-line water equipment 

like speedboats, paddle boards and 

even a deep-sea submersible. Solo 

cruisiers will find more ships now offer cabins 

for one. Norwegian, for example, has 

cabins designed for single travelers of all 

ages and includes a private lounge for 

these guests to relax and mingle. 

Myth: The ports are overcrowded tourist 

traps. 

Truth: If a popular port of call is not your 

idea of a good time, consider a cruise that 

goes off the beaten path. Yes, you read that 

correctly — contrary to popular belief, 

cruises do travel beyond the most popular 

ports of call. In fact, cruises can sometimes 

visit places that are only accessible by air or 

sea. 

Have you ever heard of Severozapadniy 

Cape? This is one of the stops aboard a 

Silversea cruise to Russia’s rarely visited Far 

East, where travelers walk along waterlogged 

dirt roads to a sea lion rookery on 

the north side of the cape. Or perhaps a 

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Egypt 

C o m e W i t h U s & S e e T h e W o r l d!

58 

cruise along the mighty Mekong River that 

separates Vietnam and Cambodia is more 

to your liking? National Geographic hosts 

expedition cruises along this waterway, 

stopping to explore traditional villages. 

And if you are dreaming of a sunny getaway 

closer to home but don’t want the 

hassle of overcrowded ports, many smaller 

cruise lines head to out-of-the-way 

Caribbean ports that have less tourists and 

more beach space. 

Myth: Food is bland and always served buffet-style. 

Truth: Much like large resorts, cruises do 

rely on buffets as an efficient way to feed a 

large group of people. But long-gone are 

the days of bland buffets! Most large ships 

these days offer a variety of restaurants — 

some buffet and some a la carte — with 

fresh ingredients and many styles of cuisine. 

With a luxury cruise, you can experience 5- 

star cuisine that can be enjoyed in the dining 

room or served on your private verandah, 

course by course. The movement for 

culinary excellence with cooking workshops 

and enrichment programs are now the 

norm. You can even have the opportunity to 

shop with a chef at a local market and 

enjoy an amazing meal with locally 

sourced produce. 

Myth: I need a ball gown/tuxedo for dinner. 

Truth: Although formal attire was once the 

cruise norm, most cruise lines now offer a 

far more relaxed dress code. Some still host 

formal nights where guests are encouraged 

to wear formal attire, but others encourage 

a more country club casual feel in the 

evenings. The good news is that there is a 

cruise out there for both types of people 

and everyone in between! Much like 

resorts, each cruise ship will have their own 

rules and norms, so choose one that fits 

your ideal. 

Myth: Time is so regimented on cruises. 

Truth: No longer do cruise lines dictate that 

you have to eat at the same time every 

night at the same table. Cruises now offer 

freestyle and open dining options, allowing 

guests to eat when they want and with 

whom they choose. Your schedule is completely 

in your hands — from dining to 

activities to relaxation. Do as much or as little 

as you choose. 

Myth: I can’t go on a cruise - I get seasick! 

Truth: Nowadays, almost all ships come 

with fixed stabilizers to help control and 

reduce the ship’s “rock n’ roll” due to strong 

winds and waves. Half the time you barely 

even feel the ship moving unless you’re 

really focusing on it. If you are very worried 

about the amount of movement, book an 

itinerary that’s prone to calmer waters, like 

the Caribbean, and reserve a cabin that’s 

located mid-ship and lower level — these 

tend to move less than cabins in the bow or 

stern of the ship. Or better yet, book a river 

cruise — nothing but smooth sailing! 

Established in 1987, Tully Luxury Travel has longstanding 

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An Ode to Vimy Ridge & Canadian battlefields 

Article & Photography by Ilona Kauremszky 

Vimy Ridge is one of those haunting 

places that look beautiful from the 

outset. 

Surrounded by fields of green, the manicured 

lawn by the Douai Plain spreads over 

the rolling hillocks embraced by tall maple 

trees and at its epicentre stands the 

Canadian National Vimy Memorial, a jewel 

in the French countryside. 

Brief Backgrounder 

The memorial, an 11 years-in-the-making 

stone structure, was unveiled in 1936 by 

King Edward VIII to honour the Canadian 

fallen soldiers in a battle that has been 

described by historians as: “the Birth of a 

Nation.” 

Four divisions of the Canadian Corps that 

had never fought together came together 

here with the purpose to overtake the now 

infamous ridge. It was Easter. April 9, 1917. 

There was sleet, snow and muddy mounds 

mixed with blood and bones. The carnage 

was obscene, unimaginable. Out of 10,602 

casualties, 3,598 Canadians gave their lives. 

Inscribed on the ramparts of the Vimy 

Memorial are the names of over 11,000 

Canadian soldiers who were posted as 

“missing, presumed dead” in France. 

For bravery and heroism, Canada was 

awarded four Victoria Crosses considered 

the highest medal for military valour for this 

blood-spattered battle that occurred over 3 

days. They were: Private William Milne, 

Lance-Sergeant Ellis Sifton, Captain Thain 

MacDowell and Private John Pattison. 

The Canadian Battlefields Tour 

This spring I attended the centennial anniversary 

of the Battle of Vimy Ridge thanks to a 

special 11-day niche tour offered by 

Trafalgar Canada titled the Canadian 

Battlefields Tour. People ask me, “How did 

you get to see the ceremony?” 

The premier tour operator made it possible 

for my group to be there. 

With 70 years of touring experience under its 

belt Trafalgar is a pro on logistics handling 

the group transfers as it fulfilled the 

advanced booking procedures required by 

Veterans Affairs Canada. Every attendee was 

registered and the site was restricted and 


secured, meaning once you were inside the 

Vimy area you cannot leave. 

The #Vimy100 Ceremony 

I could not be prouder to be a Canadian. 

Among the 25,000 estimated Canadians in 

attendance, half of them were students. The 

atmosphere was electric. There was not a 

cloud in the sky, only plenty of sunshine with 

summer-like conditions. You heard chatter 

pre-ceremony, silence during the ceremony, 

and more chatter post-ceremony. 

In our time-starved world it’s difficult for 

most to put in time to create personal travel 

packages but this is where Trafalgar Canada 

comes in. Travellers can explore places many 

only could imagine in an engaging 3-country-in-1 

European programme to England, 

France, and Belgium. 

The focus of my recent guided vacation was 

to commemorate some of the key World War 

I and II Canadian battlefields of Western 

Europe. While the themes sound like heavy 

topics, Trafalgar Canada managed to complete 

the memorable trip featuring a post 

war celebratory theme of dance, champagne 

and dining in cities like Rheims and Paris, 

which went off with great success. 

For this odyssey, Trafalgar has meshed a 

land and sea combination which began in 

the gateway city of London and smoothly 

transitioned to smaller hubs that held their 

own incredible discoveries. 

On those travel days as the spacious Wi-Fi 

enabled motor coach drove the major thoroughfares, 

extra site visits not found on the 

itinerary dubbed as “Hidden Treasures” 

added that much more to the experiences. 

England 

One day our motor coach turned onto a 

roadway laden in a mash-up of modern 

boxy buildings and Georgian-style edifices. It 

was our first hidden treasure: the Southwick 

House Park outside Portsmouth, England. 

Southwick House has been lauded as the 

headquarters for the D-Day invasion which 

was planned by the main Allied commanders: 

Eisenhower, Montgomery and Ramsay. A 

must-see of this WWII landmark is the large 

wall maps studded in original markings used 

in finalizing plans for D-Day’s Operation 

Overlord. Mr. William Dick, a retired master 

at arms from Scotland, summarized the 

operations brilliantly for our group. 

Afterwards we drove to the ancient port town 

of Portsmouth. Located on the edge of 

England, there’s a rich mariner history as 

ships have departed England, crossing the 

English Channel dating back as early as 

King Henry VIII times. 

Today, Portsmouth is a popular seaside town 

for the ferry crossing to France. For stellar 

harbour views and aerial shots head to the 

Emirates Spinnaker Tower. The 107-metre 

tower houses an observation level, a glass 

floor dubbed, SkyWalk, and the Clouds Café 

popular for high tea afternoons. 

France 

Once we reached Caen by ferry we dialed 

back the clock to World War 2 retracing 

some of the Canadian battlefields in 

Normandy and visited the significant 

Canadian landing sites at St Aubin-sur-Mer 

and Bernieres-sur-Mer. 

Along Juno Beach we saw the weathered 

coastline of the infamous D-Day Landings. 

“La Maison des Canadiens," or Canada 

House is regarded by some as one of the 

most iconic buildings in Canadian military 

history. It was one of the first houses liberated 

by Canadian soldiers on D-Day, June 6, 

1944 and was one of our stops. Some of us 

laid down a symbolic miniature wooden 

cross given by our tour operator as a 

memento on this journey of remembrance. 

As we left Normandy we shifted gears, heading 

further back in history to explore the 

legacy of World War I. Trafalgar Canada has 

curated an itinerary to see several significant 

monuments which would have been otherwise 

impossible or difficult for the regular 

traveller to view. One day I calculated seven 

sites, a feat that I challenge any traveller to 

carry out on their own. 

Belgium 

Our two-night stay in Lille proved to be 

a good overnight hub in north eastern 

France. The city is near the France-Belgium 

border which made sightseeing possible to 

view the abundant World War I memorial 

sites in both countries. 

By the green fields of Flanders in western 

Belgium lies the medieval town of Ypres 

(Ieper). One of the cities destroyed during 

WWI, the ancient town has been beautifully 

restored and remains a significant stop on 

any Canadian battlefields tour. 

During the entire war period (1914-1918) 

Ypres was the scene of some of the most 

important battles in the First World War, later 

referred to as the Great War. The Ypres 

Salient is the area around Ypres in Belgium 

which was the scene of the war’s heaviest 

battles. 

The Last Post Ceremony 

One of the most moving ceremonies I have 

ever witnessed takes place nightly at the 

Menin Gate in Ypres. The landmark is a 

sombre reminder on the tragedy of this 

Great War. Some 55,000 Allied soldiers who 

fought in the Ypres Salient have never been 

found. There is no resting place for them. No 

place to mourn until you reach this gate to 

see their names carved in stone. 

It didn’t take long for the crowd to grow by 

the Menin Gate. At one point the bulging 

size of six-row deep on either side as school 

children, families, and other groups lined 

beneath the historic gate in anticipation for 

the Last Post Ceremony. 

This nightly memorial first began in 1928 as 

a daily act of remembrance to Ypres’ missing 

Great War soldiers and for those who 

made the ultimate sacrifice. Volunteer 

buglers from the local fire brigade in Ypres 

start the moving ceremony. Traffic screeches 

to a halt. People bow their heads. Silence 

descends. 

We silently give thanks in this commemorative 

ode to the fallen. Lest we forget. 

www.trafalgar.com 

61 


62 

The Ultimate Treasure Hunt in Ontario’s Southwest 

Article and photography by Steve Gillick 

James Turland told us about the ultimate 

Treasure Hunt where “You set your own 

rules and challenges never end”. He 

confessed that, “I can’t wait to get up 

tomorrow. It’s as if every day, someone 

shakes the dice, and it’s a whole new 

game”. 

Of course James was referring to travel, but 

also to the newest cross-generational craze, 

birding. In his role as one of the guides at 

Rondeau Provincial Park, located in 

Morpeth, in Ontario’s Southwest, James 

leads hikes, especially around the migration 

seasons in May and August, when 

common and rare birds, displaying everything 

from dull camouflage to magnificent 

colourful plumage, choose Rondeau, or 

Long Point or Point Pelee as their oases or 

‘gas stations’, to rest and fuel up for the 

next leg of the migratory journey. They 

move in on mass one day and could be 

gone the next. And birders by the hundreds, 

carting everything from huge zoom lenses 

to simple point-and-shoot cameras, converge 

on the area to catch a glimpse of a 

rare Prothonotary Warbler or a bright red 

Scarlet Tanager or a flashy orange 

Baltimore Oriole. 

Bruce Dilabio, our guide at Point Pelee 

National Park noted that for decades, birders 

were seen as geeks, but now ‘bird 

watching has become mainstream and digital 

photography has turned just about 

everyone into a photographer”. And this 

means that while some birders photographically 

shoot the birds, others seem 

content to shoot themselves (selfies!) with a 

tiny dash of Avian colour in the background, 

while surrounded by a Carolinian 

forest. 

But it’s more serious than that. As James 

Turland humorously complained, “people 

get hooked going around the world to see 

more and more birds” and sure enough, 

the birders with whom we spoke, casually 

name-dropped destinations such as 

Panama, Costa Rica, Cuba, Antarctica and 

South Africa as places to visit, watch and 

photograph birds. James suggested that 1) 

Birds are the easiest form of wildlife for 

anyone to see, and 2) Travelers can combine 

birding with almost everything else 

they are doing, whether it’s relaxing on the 

beach, hiking a trail or exploring a new 


destination. And this is exactly what we did 

on our way to participate in the annual 

Birding Festival. 

Just west of London, we traveled south of 

Highway 401 to Highway 3, the historic 

Talbot Trail, and found the Crazy 8 Barn. 

The 8 sided (octagonal) structure was built 

around 1898 for stabling animals. It was 

abandoned for many years before Susanne 

Spense dismantled it and with the help of 

her partner, Manfred Wiehle, rebuilt and 

opened it as a café, complete with home 

and garden furniture and curiosities for 

sale. It’s a great place to stop for lunch and 

have a chat with Susanne about the area 

attractions that include Clearville Park and 

the old Guyitt House, a ramshackle, almost 

‘haunted-looking’ house just down the 

road. 

Before settling in for the evening, we visited 

Rondeau Provincial Park. The bird feeder at 

the Visitor’s Centre is enough to turn any 

sceptic into a birder, as Red-headed and 

Red-bellied Woodpeckers, Rose-breasted 

Grosbeaks, Common Grackles and a few 

opportunistic squirrels and chipmunks 

came to dine on sunflower seeds, suet and 

oranges. And then a walk on Tulip Tree Trail 

led us to see Cardinals, Nuthatches, Oven 

Birds, Goldfinches, Downy Woodpeckers, 

and more; a total of 27 different species in 

only a few hours. 

Our accommodation was in Ridgetown, a 

small community just 18 kilometers north of 

the Park. We stayed at the Dempster House, 

a cozy Bed and Breakfast on Main Street, 

and had dinner at Station 11, where friendly 

owner Wayne Yeck steered us toward the 

amazing Hawaiian Nachos (made with 

wantons), local craft beers and an impressive 

veggie pizza. 

But birders keep birding hours, so we were 

on the road at 5:30 the next morning to 

join James Turland’s bird hike. While some 

birders are ‘visual’ and therefore find it difficult 

to go anywhere without packing their 

binoculars, the majority of birders are both 

visual and audio (‘song sleuths’). They listen 

for the “peter, peter, peter’ call of the 

Tufted Titmouse, or the “sweet, sweet, sweet 

I’m so sweet” tune of the Yellow Warbler. 

And so for the next three hours, in the spirit 

of a Treasure Hunt, we explored different 

areas of the Park, for a magical time listening 

and watching the birds. And this really 

brought up another attraction of birding, 

which is the love of physical exercise and 

the connection with nature, shared by many 

birders and travelers alike. 

With discovery on our minds we drove east 

to Erieau to check out the Bayside Brewing 

Company where two couples, Nancy 

Cowan and husband Ken, and Frank 

Thompson and his wife Josette, decided to 

start a brewery as a semi-retirement project. 

With a waterfront pub and a brewing 

operation that now requires a larger facility, 

the owners are anything but retired and 

thoroughly enjoying themselves as restauranteurs 

relating to customers, brewers 

sharing ideas with other craft brewers in 

Southwestern Ontario, and employers giving 

students a summer job. For the record, 

the two ales and two lagers they make are 

really good. We tried them all! 

It’s a pleasant one hour drive from Erieau 

to Kingsville where it’s only fitting to take 

the Lake Erie North Shore Wine Route, 

home to 20 wineries include Pelee Island 

Winery. The grapes are grown on the Island 

which is the southernmost point in Canada 

and has a climate similar to grape-growing 

regions in Europe. We enjoyed tastings of 

Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Pinot 

Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon/Petite 

Verdot. Our comfortable accommodation 

was not too far away, at the Heart and Soul 

Inn, located in a 1906 Victorian home. 

In the late afternoon we drove to Point Pelee 

National Park to enjoy the Twilight Delaurier 

Trail Hike (and to catch the dance of the 

Woodcocks), and then the next morning, 

just after sunrise, we were back at Point 

Pelee, on a morning hike of the Woodland 

Trail. The park is famous for songbirds so 

we were in Warbler-heaven with Nashville 

Warblers, Chestnut-sided Warblers, Cape 

May Warblers, Blackburnian Warblers, 

Black and White Warblers and the ubiquitous 

Yellow Warbler. This, aside from Wild 

Turkeys, Ruby-crowned Kinglets and a very 

63 

friendly Scarlet Tanager who posed for us at 

the ‘Tip’ of Point Pelee. 

And again, the hundreds of people of all 

ages and all physical abilities who were 

exploring, admiring, zooming-in, photographing 

and thrilling at seeing the birds 

was inspiring. One woman confessed that 

this was the 47th year that she and her husband 

were attending the Birding Festival. 

On the last day of our journey we drove 

east to the town of Beachville where we met 

our hosts from Oxford County: Meredith 

Maywood, a Tourism Specialist and Phil 

Holst, the Vice-Chair of Stewardship. The 

purpose of our visit was to experience the 

Thames River Wetlands and see how the 

old riverbed was being revitalized into a 

productive natural area for wildlife and for 

the community. To that extent, Wood Ducks, 

Mallards, Canada Geese, Swallows, Whitetail 

Deer, Muskrats, Garter Snakes, Turtles, 

Song Sparrows, Red-tailed Hawks and 

Great Blue Herons have re-populated the 

wetland. It’s a project in the making with a 

focus on educating the next generation 

about the importance of wetlands and the 

migratory corridor. 

The Ultimate Treasure Hunt in Ontario’s 

Southwest is an exciting, challenging 

adventure that involves exploration, walking 

through forests, spotting birds, experiencing 

marshes and wetlands, as well as 

discovering areas of the province that tend 

to be a bit off the travel radar screen. Like 

any good Treasure Hunt, the rewards are in 

the form of the people you meet along the 

way, feelings of exhilaration and accomplishment, 

and golden memories. 


64 

Luxury Hotels...Grand Resorts...Charming B&B...Opulent Villas...Quaint C 

S t a y & P l a y Sweet Dreams Around The World 

El Nido Cove Resort and Spa 

Palawan Island, Philippines 

by Daniel Smajovits 

From the craziness of Manila to the serenity of Palawan Island, the Philippines 

is the hidden jewel of Southeast Asia. With over 7,500 islands, it is said that the 

country offers a perfect beach for everyone, but the country is so much more 

than white sand and crystal clear waters. World-class diving and snorkeling, 

millennia old man-made and natural wonders and a rich, albeit convoluted, 

history make this a premiere travel destination. 

Tucked away on Palawan Island is the tiny village of El Nido, which consistently 

ranked as one of the world’s best beach destinations. When looking to relax 

for a few days, look no further than the El Nido Cove Resort and Spa. The property 

rests on the tip of El Nido Bay and far enough north of the town to truly 

provide an escape and serenity from day-to-day life. 

Depending on your budget, you can choose between a Garden, Forest or 

Beachfront room, each of which is very spacious, modern and clean. With only 

20 rooms in total, the property sells out quickly during peak season, which runs 

from December to February. 

As they have only a limited number of guests, the staff is in-tune to your every 

need. Whether it’s booking one of El Nido’s famous island hopping tours, 

priced the same regardless of the operator, or a special dietary request, they 

are ready and willing to make your stay a memorable one. 

Yet, the property’s greatest amenity is the natural beauty that surrounds it and 

guests can enjoy it either by the beach, the outdoor pool or for the adventurous, 

a kayaking trip to explore a nearby island or lagoon. If relaxation is 

squarely on your mind, one can opt for a massage by the beach or indoors, 

depending on the weather. 

With a full service restaurant, open throughout the day and into the evening, 

the hotel offers complimentary breakfast and a moderately priced menu so 

guests can skip the 20-minute tricycle ride into town. As El Nido is still a fishing 

village today, visitors should at least make the trip in for one dinner, where 

beachfront restaurants offer a wide selection of local fish and seafood, grilled 

to your liking, for under $10 a person. 

Traditional Bhutanese Bath House 

Opens at Gangtey Lodge Spa 

Gangtey Lodge invites guests on a journey 

into an ancient Bhutanese ritual in their 

new hot stone bath house. The signature 

treatment in this one of a kind setting combines 

ancient Bhutanese medicinal practices 

with unobstructed views of the magnificent 

Gangtey Valley in a specially prepared 

Bhutanese Dotsho, or hot stone 

bath. The Kingdom of Bhutan is historically 

known as Lhojong Menjong, The Southern 

Valley of Medicinal Herbs and the hot stone 

bath is a trusted ritual. The bath itself is 

constructed using local pinewood, river 

stones are collected and heated until red 

hot, fresh cold spring water is used to fill 

the bath and then finished with beautifully 

scattered Artemisia leaves. 

Gangtey Lodge offers guests a unique and 

exciting insight into the beautiful Gangtey 

Valley of Bhutan. Nestled high in the eastern 

Himalayas, Bhutan still maintains its 

incredible natural beauty and traditional 

ways of life. The lodge, with its spectacular 

setting and sweeping views over the whole 

valley, acts as a luxurious base for a series 

of adventures and excursions. Drawing 

inspiration from the unique and beautiful 

Bhutanese rural architecture down to the 

very last detail, Gangtey Lodge boasts 12 

beautifully appointed guestrooms, each 

with their own fireplace and spacious private 

bathroom, designed to reflect the rich 

cultural heritage using warm fabrics and 

earthen tones. Gangtey Lodge continues 

their dedication to tradition with the opening 

of the property’s new Bhutanese bathhouse, 

a new addition to the spa, beginning 

with a foot scrub and complimented 

by a traditional massage. 

www.elnidocoveresort.com 

www.gangteylodge.com 

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65 

and well-lit, the rooms are tastefully decorated, 

and the service throughout the hotel is 

friendly and helpful. The pool, sauna, spa 

and fitness centre only add to the sense of 

‘restful escape’. Some of the rooms and 

suites on the upper floors overlook Union 

Station and the now iconic Canadian 

Museum for Human Rights. 

Now, knowing that Room 202 has been one 

of the rooms in which ghosts have been 

reported, I requested, and was assigned that 

room. I checked it thoroughly when I 

entered, cringing when the closet door 

creaked ominously when I opened it, but all 

that was inside was an empty bathrobe. 

Haunting Memories of Winnipeg’s Fort Garry Hotel 

Article & Photography by Steve Gillick 

And then it happened. I was alone (or so I 

thought) around 10:30 that evening when I 

heard someone (or something) attempt to 

open the locked door connecting my room to 

the next. The door knob started to turn this 

way and that, and then a force started pushing 

on the door. I dispassionately got up, 

banged on the door, and all the activity 

stopped. It was either the people next door 

who thought that my door was one of their 

closets, or it was one of the hotel ghosts trying 

to contact me! 

The Fort Garry Hotel is a pretty 

impressive property in the heart of 

downtown Winnipeg. It has 

amenities that appeal to travelers of all generations, 

as well as an old world charm 

harkening back to its roots in 1913 when it 

opened as a Grand Trunk Pacific Railway 

hotel. But it was also in that year, specifically 

on December 10 during the hotel’s grand 

opening, when the legacy of ghosts seems to 

have manifested itself. 

The hotel’s original name was to be the 

Selkirk Hotel, in deference to the Selkirk 

Settlers; Scottish immigrants who came to 

colonize the Red River area in 1812 and 

1813 under a project set up by Thomas 

Douglas, the 5th Earl of Selkirk. At the last 

minute the name was changed to the Fort 

Garry Hotel, after Upper Fort Garry which 

was located near the confluence of the Red 

and Assiniboine Rivers in the area known 

today as The Forks. The gate of the Fort can 

be found just east of the hotel’s Broadway 

Avenue main entrance. 

The hotel is visually charming inside and out. 

It was built in what has been called the 

“Chateau” style, with features that recall New 

York’s Plaza Hotel (built in 1906-07) as well 

as Ottawa’s Chateau Laurier Hotel, another 

Grand Trunk Hotel, built from 1909 to 1912 

to provide luxury accommodation to train 

travellers. 

Check-in takes place in the comfortably, 

chandeliered lobby. The hallways are broad 

The real ghost is said to be a woman who 

committed suicide following the death of her 

husband outside the hotel (he was hit by a 

horse-drawn cart). But other reports are of a 

woman dressed in white who can be traced 

to Lady McMillan, one of the attendees at the 

grand opening in 1913. And still other 

reports relate to a ‘presence’ climbing into 

beds, eating in the kitchen, and lighting candles 

in the ballroom. 

Haunting memories are simply those we 

remember vividly. My stay at the Fort Garry 

provided me with some very pleasant 

thoughts, and certainly I will stay there 

again. Perhaps then, when the ghosts feel 

more comfortable with my presence, we can 

connect. 

www.fortgarryhotel.com 

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68 

S t a y & P l a y NYA Hotel & Collector Luxury Inn 

Ensconced in the heart of 

Old Town Key West amid 

the magnolias trees, the 

whitewashed cottage style homes 

and lush greenery is a brand new 

accommodation concept ideal for 

groups who like to travel together. 

It’s called NYAH- Not Your 

Average Hotel, and the name certainly 

fits! It’s impossible to compare 

it to anything else because 

it’s a first of its kind. Think upscale 

hostel meets charming B&B with a 

side of quirky boutique escape. 

Then add the transformer element. 

Each of the 36 guestrooms boast 

a BYOR® - Build-Your-Own-Room 

option which means it can be a 

spacious room for two or a communal 

room for six in the same 

New Quirky Cool in Key West 

NYAH – Not Your Average Hotel 

by Susan Campbell 

space, but with no additional cost! And you 

need not do the building yourself. Simply 

request the number of guest beds you need 

and they do the transformation for you 

before you get there. Everything is designed 

almost Ikea style with moving parts and 

puzzle piece elements, and everything 

moves seamlessly into the configuration 

customized to what you need. But though 

when accommodating up to six people the 

room can appear almost “barracks” style, 

the beds are anything but Spartan in comfort- 

they are all super comfy memory foam 

mattresses topped with quality linens. 

Flat panel TVs, complimentary Wi-Fi, minifridges 

and individual lockers add to the 

appeal, and complimentary continental 

breakfast on their cheery deck starts your 

day off right and complimentary Starbucks 

coffee 24/7 is also a welcome perk.A daily 

happy hour with free snacks and very reasonable 

drink prices also add to the bargain 

and gives guests a chance to socialize 

with each other. 

The property itself is lovely- all lush gardens 

and towering trees surrounding the multilevel 

configuration of buildings overlooking 

three pools and two hot tubs. And its 

location is ideal for exploring all of Key 

West’s coolest attractions easily on foot. 

They also offer coaster bikes to guests. 

The NYAH concept is part of the new 

WeHotel group, which caters to groups that 

like to arrange things their way. This hotel is 

a superb bargain for family reunions, girl’s 

and guy’s getaways, friend get-togethers 

and special occasion stays like bachelorette 

parties. 

Must do things in Key West nearby include 

a visit to Kermit's Key West Key Lime Shoppe 

for over 500 key lime products and all day 

breakfast, a trip on Danger Charters sailboat 

for a wine and tapas tasting during 

sunset, and dinner at Mangoes for fine fruit 

inspired fare. Also a short walk to the historic 

harbour is worth taking for dinner at 

Turtle Kraals. And a great way to get to 

know the little island town is by the sightseeing 

trolley train to determine where you 

might like to return to in order to explore 

further like the Hemingway Museum. 

www.nyahotels.com

69 

New Sophistication in St. Augustine 

The Collector Luxury Inn & Gardens 

by Susan Campbell 

St. Augustine, America’s oldest city, is 

awash in historic sites, epic ancient 

architecture and inviting attractions, 

but what it was lacking was a luxury boutique 

stay right in the heart of it all. Not 

anymore. 

The Collector Luxury Inn & Gardens is an 

incredible gem now located in the charming 

old historic quarter of the city. And it 

has its own fascinating history as well. 

Once the home of eccentric collector 

Kenneth Worcester Dow who “collected” all 

nine buildings there to house himself along 

with his unique treasures he found all over 

the globe, he generously left it all to the city 

when he passed on. At first it was operating 

as a museum, but now it has been thoroughly 

restored and reopened as an avant 

garde oasis hotel. And the owners have 

taken great pains to ensure as much of the 

original architecture has remained intact. 

As soon as you enter the ancient stone 

gates and see the old amphitheater and the 

lush secret gardens full of stone cherubs, 

fountains and lovely sculptures, you can tell 

this is one very special spot. Of course, they 

have added luxe amenities to bring the stay 

into the 21st century such as the inviting 

pool in the middle of the courtyard that 

beckons those seeking to refresh in the 

humid Florida heat. And a tranquil pond 

and waterfall has also been added to 

soothe work weary spirits. Then there’s a 

cozy courtyard café that crests The Well 

Bar- a trendy enclave where master mixologists 

mix up craft cocktails using local 

spirits, and an interesting tapas menu sates 

guests before they head out to dinner in 

town. Breakfast in a cheery indoor dining 

spot is also included, and a common area 

campfire attracts those seeking to chat 

under the stars after a day out. There are 

also coaster bikes for rent to explore St. 

Augustine’s plethora of attractions. It is an 

ideal base for this fascinating destination. 

The 30 rooms are located within standalone 

and attached cottage style abodeseach 

unique in it their make-up and 

design, and all bursting with museum quality 

art and antiques. The accommodations 

range from sumptuous suites with separate 

living areas, sofa sleepers, kitchenettes and 

breezy verandas to cozy studio style 

enclaves. Some also have fireplaces. The 

grounds are dotted with historical markers, 

but ask the staff about the interesting back 

stories of the buildings and the sometimes 

famous folk who had been there before. 

Like Napoleon’s nephew Prince Achille 

Murat who resided in the original structure 

that dates back to 1790! Greta Garbo, 

Mark Twain and Sinclair Lewis have all visited 

there, too! In fact, it’s almost impossible 

not to hear the echoes of history all 

around you when strolling the grounds, 

and whispers of scandals, tall tales, and 

visiting spirits seem to continually wisp 

through the leaves of the ancient trees in 

the evenings as well. 

The Collector Inn is truly a rare find and a 

welcome addition the fascinating 

St. Augustine scene. 

www.thecollectorinn.com 


IIt all started with a big bang. More than 

300 million years ago, an asteroid 

crashed into the Charlevoix region, 

forming its remarkable landscape that is 

now a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve. 

Today the crater walls are tree-covered 

mountains that create a natural wonderland, 

especially when it’s combine with the 

gorgeous sight of the mighty St. Lawrence 

River. Located approximately 90 minutes 

northeast of Quebec City, there’s plenty to 

explore. During a fun-packed long weekend 

we discovered the Isle-aux-Coudres, a 

small island that’s big on character. We 

strolled through the village of Baie St. Paul 

with its numerous art galleries and boutiques, 

and even boarded a helicopter for a 

memorable birds-eye-view of Charlevoix’s 

out-of-this-world landscape. 

Fairmont Manoir Richelieu 

But I have to admit there were times it was 

difficult to leave the hotels. Truly hard. 

Why? Because both properties we stayed at 

– Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu and Le 

Germain Hotel Charlevoix —were destinations 

themselves. Farm-to-table cuisine, 

pampering spas, local history, gorgeous 

views, welcoming décor and a host of other 

amenities and services made for unforgettable 

stays. 

Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu 

Aptly referred to as the Castle on the Cliff, 

this historic property sits idyllically between 

the Laurentian Mountains and the St. 

Lawrence River near the town of La 

Malbaie. The grand hotel was established 

during the ‘white boat era’ at the turn of the 

century, when well-to-do tourists would 

travel down the river from the cities and 

stay for the season. Elvis Presley, Angelina 

Jolie, Charlie Chaplin and former US president 

William Howard Taft are among its 

celebrity guest alumni. You may think this 

sounds a tad pretentious, but Le Manoir is 

anything but. 

We felt welcomed from the moment we 

arrived from the bright fire in the foyer to 

the view of the St. Lawrence in our rooms. 

Everywhere we turned there was some 

curiosity to admire whether it was the his-

71 

Stay & Play at these two Exceptional Hotels in 

Charlevoix, Quebec 

by Jennifer Merrick 

Fairmont Manoir Richelieu 

toric paintings and photographs, antique 

furniture or wooden sporting equipment 

used at the beginning of the century. 

Be sure to savour a meal at the Table et 

Terroir restaurant, which prides itself on 

their fresh and locally sourced menu and is 

part of La route des saveurs de Charlevoix. 

It was an exceptional meal with highlights 

that included lamb ragout, Charlevoix’s 

famous cheeses and a veritable smorgasbord 

of mouth-watering desserts. 

Spa, casino, indoor and outdoor pools, 

bicycle rentals and even horse-drawn carriages 

are some of the activities on offer. 

The hotel is particularly known for its golf 

courses, perched dramatically on the edge 

of the cliff overlooking the river. 

www.fairmont.com/richelieu-charlevoix 

Le Germain Hotel Charlevoix 

Built by Daniel Gaulthier, a founder of 

Cirque du Soleil, this property, situated on 

a former farm, manages to combine a stylish 

and contemporary design with an 

atmosphere of warmth that peacefully 

complements its rural surrounding. 

Attention to detail is evident from the exquisite 

meals at Les Labours and fresh bread 

at La Patesserie to the pillow cases made by 

nuns from a local convent. It’s minutes 

away from the center of Baie St. Paul and 

one of the stations of Train de Charlevoix 

that departs from Quebec City. 

A highlight of our stay was the Spa du 

Verger, a classic Quebec Nordic spa. Our 

circuit began with the eucalyptus steam 

room and took us through the hot and cold 

outdoor pools, offering much-needed relief 

from our outdoor activities. 

But mostly, we loved the rooms themselves. 

Our loft-styled accommodation in the Le 

Clos building had high ceilings, exposed 

wood, a large inviting bath tub and a 

chaise lounge tucked beside the window. A 

perfect reading spot even if I did get distracted 

by the horses in the field outside the 

window. 

Perhaps you can now understand why it 

was difficult to leave these hotels even if the 

beauty of Charlevoix beckoned. 

www.legermainhotels.com/fr/charlevoix 

www.tourisme-charlevoix.com/en 

Le Germain Hotel Le Germain Hotel Le Germain Hotel 


74 

Treats in New York! 

by David J. Cox 

Entering New York City is always a 

pleasure, whether for the first time 

or the 50th, the skyline, sounds and 

scents overwhelm the senses! 

Food, Food, Food! 

There are thousands of restaurants of all 

sizes, flavours, tastes and cultures, and our 

visit offered samplings from eight of the 

city’s tastiest and trendiest best! 

Our first taste of New York? Well, it made 

me want to move to New York just to be 

able to visit these two next flavourful fiesta 

favorites! 

Viva Mexico at MEXICUE 

Mexicue started as the brainchild of David 

Schillace and Thomas Kelly, who took two 

of America’s favorite comfort foods, 

Mexican & BBQ, and blended them into a 

Food Truck mega-success. 

Fast forward a couple of years, and we are 

all enjoying amazing guacamole, I eat the 

best black-bean burrito I have ever had, my 

wife enjoys blackened fish tacos, and the 

house Poblano Mac’nCheese is deemed 

delicious by both kids. I also get to taste 

some of the over 50 varieties of Tequila 

available all in the comfort of their beautiful 

5th avenue restaurant! The `mouthwatering 

union` of the blended flavors leave 

an impression, and the Chef came to meet 

with us to be sure everything was tasty. 

DOS CAMINOS 

Deep in the heart of Times Square lies Dos 

Caminos, another fantastic restaurant that 

exceeded all my expectations. We were 

greeted by the manager and led downstairs, 

past the impressive and cozy tequila 

bar into the wonderful, villa-inspired 

restaurant where the full house was being 

served plates filled with colors and scents 

that got my stomach growling. We started 

with a big tub of Butternut, pomegranate 

and chipotle guacamole, accompanied by 

an ever-full basket of nachos and 3 salsas. 

Offering tacos of all sorts, house specialties 

and Street food, the choices were endless. 

We settled on Chorizo Fundito with 

Mexican cheeses, dark beer, spicy chorizo 

and warm corn tortillas; Dos Enchiladas, a 

house specialty with roasted chicken, queso 

Dos Caminos 

BILLS BAR AND BURGER 

John’s Pizzeria Times Square

menonita, mole poblano & tres chiles 

sauce, as well as some classic Asada Tacos 

with steak, caramelized onions, queso cotija 

and guacamole. I cannot recommend it 

enough for family or a date night! 

BILLS BAR AND BURGER 

OH YEAH! Some old-fashioned, supersloppy, 

mouth-watering burgers at the 

Rockefeller Centre Bills Bar & Burger joint! 

Here you can order the burger of your 

dreams from the classic Bill’s Burger, with 

“LPT” (lettuce, pickle, tomato) cheese and 

the house special sauce, to the Kimchi 

Bomb Burger with its crispy shallots, spicy 

Kimchi relish, shredded cabbage and chile 

aioli; 2 of a dozen or more menu burgers, 

or better yet, build your own with over 20 

custom ingredients! One kid decided on a 

bacon cheeseburger and the other 

devoured a Swiss cheese, mushroom and 

bacon monster! 

We added some bowls of their delicious 

roasted tomato soup and butternut squash 

soups as appetizers. You must be sure to try 

their milkshakes, they are perfect – my 

favourite was the Chocolate Mint! 

JOHN’S PIZZERIA TIMES SQUARE 

Another place that offered distinct 

American flavor was John’s Pizzeria Times 

Square. This vast, bustling eatery is noisy 

and filled with people enjoying the amazing 

array of toppings on the perfectly 

baked pizzas! 

Gaze at the huge map of New York as you 

are offered starters, including two of my 

favourites – John`s Garlic Rolls and their 

delicious Bruschetta! But the highlight is 

`building your own pizza` where you can 

choose from over 30 ingredients, from staples 

like pepperoni, to gourmet items like 

Broccoli rabbe. Your masterpiece is then 

placed in their coal-fired brick ovens. We 

shared two pizzas, the vegetarian and a pie 

chosen by my son. His list of ingredients 

was impressive, and the pizza master 

obliged with a flavourful, colorful pie. With 

choices for all tastes, including a bacon 

and vodka-sauced pie, it is easy to see why 

this great pizzeria has been voted as one of 

New York's best pizzas! 

KELLOGG’S 

Now I am what one would call a Cereal 

Connoisseur…and in New York, I found 

paradise. Kellogg’s has opened a unique 

little boutique restaurant right in the heart 

of Times Square. This bright and airy café 

offers a unique build-your-own-breakfast 

option from a selection of Kellogg’s products. 

Offered a whiteboard pen and a 

product sheet, visitors check off a premade 

combo, like the Corny Blues (my son chose 

this) with Corn Pops, blueberry jam, lemon 

zest and a pinch of salt, or my daughter’s 

pick, S’mores – containing Frosted Flakes, 

dark chocolate chips, mini marshmellows 

and graham crackers. If you want a 

75 

la carte, you can mix any combination 

of 5 ingredients (or unlimited 

choices for an extra couple of bucks), 

including cereals (18 available) and extras 

that include fruits, nuts, sauces, marshmallows, 

green tea powder and over 30 other 

goodies! 

To add some spice, the café also offers their 

creations as Milkshakes, Sundaes and 

Parfaits! 

This was the best family experience...well, 

there was also the doughnuts... 

THE DOUGHNUT PLANT 

As George Takei would say, “oh Myyyyy!” 

With a modern décor and a hipster 

ambiance, I was not sure how the kids 

would be welcomed, but the staff was 

incredible to them, answering questions 

and letting them taste test a collection of 

the most colorful and deliriously delicious 

doughnuts I have ever tasted! I am not usually 

one for doughnuts, but they served me 

one that was gluten-free and banana 

glazed and it melted in my mouth...mercy! 

A must visit when in NYC!! 

MOONCAKE RESTAURANT 

Modest décor, magnificent meals! 

We arrived at this little hotspot at lunchtime 

and were hustled in, sitting at our chair and 

drinking in the ambiance and odors. The 

great menu has many delicious, unique 

options like asian heros and a delicious 

seared tuna salad. 

It's also really economical, and the service 

is swift, no-frills, and very friendly. The kids 

really enjoyed a miso-glazed salmon platter, 

with delicious sauce on the brown rice. 

The best part was the crispy portion of the 

fish. A scrumptious Shanghai home-style 

spare rib dish were absolutely mouth 

watering, as were the crawfish dumplings – 

some of the best I have ever eaten! 

So many restaurants so little time!! 

KELLOGG’S The Doughnut Plant Mooncake restaurant 


76 

A Conversation with 

Fredericksburg,Texas 

Article and photography by Steve Gillick

When you’re a foodie who 

loves to try new beers and 

you see Ugly Pug 

Schwarzbier on the menu, you’re 

intrigued, to say the least. And this is 

exactly how I started my visit to 

Fredericksburg, a city of 11,000 in Texas 

Hill Country, about 70 minutes north of 

San Antonio or 90 minutes west of Austin. 

I sampled the delicious dark lager at 

Otto’s, an ultra-popular restaurant, 

described by owner Evelyn Washburne as 

“European bistro, fine dining” but she was 

quick to add that “we don’t take ourselves 

too seriously”. And in this relaxed, friendly 

atmosphere, Paco, the sommelier, pairs 

German and Austrian wines (and also 

beer) with the house specialties that 

include a rich and creamy Flammkuchen 

(flatbread with crème fraiche and gorgonzola), 

the unbelievably tasty Gravlax 

(beet and gin cured salmon with capers 

and horseradish), the delicious Wurst 

Platte, (house-made sausage, served with 

kartoffelnsalat and sauerkraut), and the 

incredible Duck Schnitzel (with spätzle, 

rotkohl, huckleberry demi-glace and duck 

cracklin’s). Evelyn tells the story of the man 

in Louisiana who heard about the Duck 

Schnitzel and flew his private plane from 

Shreveport to Fredericksburg (about 400 

miles). When he was told that the dish 

was not being featured on the menu that 

day, he turned around and flew home. I 

had the Duck Schnitzel and I believe the 

story! 

During our class at the Fischer & Wiser 

Culinary Adventure Cooking School, Chef 

John deMers spoke about food as “a window 

into culture…the story of people’s 

lives” and even though many restaurants 

in Fredericksburg harken back to the city’s 

German origins in the 1840’s, the muchacclaimed 

culinary scene melds Texan 

tastes with Global flavours, and adds in a 

pinch of “fun”. When Chef Judson Woods 

at Tubby’s Icehouse offered Grapefruit 

Paletas (similar to a popsicle) to cool down 

our palates after we tasted the spicy 

Yucatan Chicken Tacos made with achiote 

and habanero, he suggested that the icy 

treat tasted even better when dipped in 

Prosecco. He was right! 

And our blissful indulgence in food continued 

with the breakfast tacos and muffins 

at Twisted Sisters, the tender, fresh 

mesquite-smoked ribs and brisket at the 

Backdoors BBQ, and the “Fredericks 

Burger” at Burger Burger (made with Beef, 

bratwurst and sauerkraut) and paired with 

Lobo Negro, a Bavarian style black lager. 

Lee Hereford, the President and CEO of 

Perdinales Brewing Company referred to 

this beer as “my favourite child” and 

advised that “when you get to the bottom 

of the glass and decide that it tastes like 

another one”, then you know you have a 

product that resonates with the public. 

Not too far away at The Treaty House, the 

super-popular bar and cocktail lounge, 

connects with Fredericksburg locals and 

tourists alike. Owner John Muraglia told 

us that when his father was imprisoned in 

Leavenworth Penitentiary in 1933 for violating 

Prohibition, he was also stripped of 

his U.S. Citizenship. It took years to have 

it re-instated and finally a Pardon, signed 

by President Harry Truman made it official. 

The drink, ‘Truman’s Pardon’, a classic 

Martini made with fresh, red grapefruit 

juice, is served in the Independence Bar 

where the actual document is framed on 

the wall. 

But in line with his love of family, fun, living 

in Texas and pride in the U.S. Military, 

John Muraglia went one step further. He 

commissioned three historical murals to 

be created for the large, comfortable, 

contemporary-designed Treaty House: 1) 

The Battle of San Jacinto, fought in 1836, 

that resulted in the creation of the 

Republic of Texas; 2) the Treaty with the 

Comanches in 1847 that allowed the new 

German immigrants to settle on the land 

that would eventually include the town of 

Fredericksburg; and 3) the Unconditional 

Surrender, signed by Japan in 1945, that 

ended the war of the Pacific. 

77 

On Main Street and many of the side 

streets in Fredericksburg history comes 

alive in the architecture that ranges from 

log cabins to balconied limestone 

dwellings, to quaint Sunday houses. 

History comes alive at the LBJ State Park 

where you can see President Lyndon 

Johnson’s “LBJ” cattle-brand on the horns 

of his steers, tour the Western White 

House where he and Lady Bird spent 490 

days during the Presidency, and see the 

recreation of his birthplace, only a few 

hundred feet away from the family cemetery. 

With his wry sense of humour, 

Johnson was fond of telling his guests that 

when he died, they could say that he didn’t 

get very far in life. 

And history comes alive on Main Street 

with the statue of Admiral Chester W. 

Nimitz, a Fredericksburg native, under 

whose command the Pacific War ended. 

The National Museum of the Pacific War 

not only details the campaigns of the war 

but also tells the personal stories of the 

men and woman who fought. One gallery 

is devoted to the Sullivan Brothers. When 

their mom heard rumours that all five of 

her sons had been killed, she wrote to the 

Bureau of Naval Personnel for clarification. 

In the Museum, there is a recording 

made by Mrs. Sullivan’s grand-daughter 

in which she reads this letter, and chokes 

up with tears half-way through the recording. 

It’s a very touching encounter for the 

museum visitor. Ultimately President 

Roosevelt broke the terrible news to Mrs. 

Sullivan in a personal letter. This incident 

inspired the movie ‘Saving Private Ryan’. 

see following page 


78 

But Fredericksburg inspiration also 

includes all that is colorful, artistic, happy 

and interactive. There are 42 wineries 

along Highway 290 which passes through 

what has been called the second most visited 

wine region in the United States, next 

to Sonoma, California. Wines include 

Viognier, Roussane, Malbec, Merlot, Pinot 

Grigio, Petite Syrah, Albarino and more. 

And according to John Thomas, the owner 

of Wildseed Farms, Texas Hill Country in 

and around Fredericksburg, is the largest 

flower show on earth. A drive along 

Highway 290 reveals a kaleidoscopic blast 

of color that includes Texas Bluebonnet 

and Paintbrush, Indian Blanket, Purple 

Wine Cup, acres of red and blue Poppies, 

and tons of photographic opportunities. 

Special interest activities in the area might 

include Cowboys! You can stop at Texas 

Jack Wild West Outfitter, then drive 18 

miles to Luchenbach, one of the meccas 

of country western music, where you can 

line-dance while quaffing a bottle of 

Shiner Bock Beer (Nothing’s Finer than a 

Shiner!). Or you can visit one of the 20 

art galleries in the city, or for the adventurous 

you can rent a bicycle for the day 

and then climb Enchanted Rock for the 

view. Just a word of note: the city is 

always sold out on the weekend before 

and after Valentine’s Day. 

While there are several standard 

hotels/motels in the city, many visitors opt 

for a guest house that offers more of a 

‘living like a local’ experience. I stayed in 

‘The Barn’, a converted 1880’s building, 5 

miles out of town at the Palo Alto Creek 

Farm. The design might be described as 

super-comfy cowboy with western decorations 

throughout, and some of the most 

interesting neighbors you can imagine! 

On my first day I met the Texas 

Longhorns, Loretta, Emmy Lou, and 

“Clearout”, the Bull. The donkeys, Dollie, 

Patsy, Faith and George, loved to have 

their ears scratched, and multi-tuned 

Mockingbirds, whistling Grackles, and 

curious Turkey Vultures, Hummingbirds 

and Woodpeckers frequented the area. 

Fredericksburg is a unique destination with 

a tempting culinary scene, impressive historical 

attractions, outdoor adventures with 

colourful landscapes, and the opportunity 

to relax and have a conversation with the 

locals. It’s a warm, welcoming, friendly 

place to include on your next visit to Texas. 

www.visitfredericksburgtx.com

American World Traveler Summer 2017 Issue

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