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Sbeauty
Cutting it
Five top Johannesburg stylists
– and their clients – share the
secrets of their success, and
give us the heads up on how
to wear the top trends for 2008.
By Marianne Campbell. Photographs by Patrick Tosselli.
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Creating a mood
The stylist: David Gilson of Carlton Hair. ‘I look at the way a woman
dresses and add that to the mix once I’ve chatted to her about lifestyle, work,
career, travel – something I do in order to understand her specific needs. Hair
should be an accessory that flatters but should also be easy to manage. Of course,
fashion is an influence but I use the latest trends only as inspiration. The shape of
the face and the texture of the skin determine the way I cut. Age is fast becoming
less of a factor and gorgeous Sandra proves that. Don’t get stuck in what you think
works for older women. Very often something less traditional looks really great.’
The client: Sandra Hirshcowitz, 60. ‘I’m not scared to try different styles –
I even have pink in my hair! I give David free rein – after all, your hair will always
grow back and you can change the colour. But what I love is that David also takes
what I say into consideration.’
Setting the trend. ‘There’s a strong move towards colour at the moment,’
says David. ‘I make colour work for more mature women by using “smudging”
techniques, which create a natural progression of colour. It’s not about using
individual colours, which can look hard on a 40-plus face, but about creating a
mood. Sandra has five colours in her hair but the effect is rather muted, which is
why it remains flattering. Blonde, in particular, is big right now – everything from
champagne to bottle blonde – and here smudging works brilliantly. The bob is also
in vogue but I prefer to give it a little more length and to texture the cut so that it
will soften the features.’
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{Sharing and enhancing
{Facilitating expertise
The stylist: Shelene Shaer of Tanaz Hair Body and Nails.
‘A good cut is essential – everything follows from there. It means
less time is spent at the salon and it makes styling at home easier.
I chat to a client about her lifestyle, needs and career and work
within those parameters, and with the type and texture of her
hair, to make sure she gets the best cut. I don’t believe in telling
women what to do. At this age, women are more specific about
what they like. My role is to work with what they want. I see it
as facilitating, enhancing and encouraging. If you get too extreme
you might lose a client. Often just a minimal change is required
to please a client and to make her feel more confident.’
The client: Dr Linda Friedland, 43. ‘What I love about
Tanaz is that the salon is not intimidating,’ says Linda (above left).
‘I travel a lot and visit many international salons but here the
environment is very real – it’s like entering a comfort zone.’
Setting the trend. ‘The bob is still very fashionable and an
increasing variety of the style is emerging,’ explains Shelene. ‘The
question is, does the bob suit everybody? I honestly believe that
you can wear any hairstyle you choose. It’s up to the stylist to
make it work with the shape of your face and your overall image.
On a rounder face, you need to create an angular bob to draw
attention away from the fullness of the face. A side parting also
helps in this regard. Longer faces should avoid a blunt-cut bob.
Layering and shattering the edges creates movement and fluffy
ends soften the contours of the face, especially when there is
a square or strong jawline.’
The stylist: Clinton Valjeaux of Jeauval Hairdressing.
‘My job is to share my expertise. After all, that is why a client
comes to the salon. Sharing knowledge on cuts, trends, colour
and condition is all part of the job. I even find myself giving
advice on make-up because it’s all part of the aesthetic package.
Working with older women is wonderful because they are a lot
more self-accepting, which means you can achieve much more.
All they really want is that the style you create for them makes
them look beautiful. I use fashion as a guideline only – I prefer
to create a hairstyle that makes the most of the client’s attributes.
I think women often cut their hair too short once they get to
their forties – they almost think it’s expected of them. I couldn’t
disagree more. You can wear your hair as long as you like if it
suits you and makes you feel comfortable with yourself.’
The client: Colette Di Iorio, 42. ‘I feel more confident when
Clinton does my hair. I leave the salon feeling inspired.’
Setting the trend. ‘Bold colour is on the cards for 2008,’ says
Clinton. ‘I like to introduce it subtly by adding sections of colour
to the underlying layers. This way regrowth is not obvious and
you’re still able to have fun with the latest in fashion colour
statements. Blonde is big right now. Anybody can be blonde, but
the right tone should be used on a mature face to keep it from
looking hard – warmer tones flatter mature skin the most. The
bob is big news. It’s a great style for the 40-plus woman because
it’s versatile and is a great tool for enhancing the silhouette. The
way you shape it can extend the length of the neck or do wonders
to hide a double chin. Best of all, it needs very little maintenance.’
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{Pushing the boundaries
{
Complementing skin tone
The stylist: Terence of Terenzo Hairdressing. ‘Women
over 40 often think they need to change their hairstyle simply
because they’re older. But a suitable cut is not about age, it’s
about attitude. Women these days are doing amazing things at
40 and there’s no reason why they shouldn’t have the latest
hairstyle if I can make it work on them. A woman’s hair should
suit her personality and the way she dresses. And at this age, she
knows who she is and what she wants. There are times that I
push the boundaries a little and this often inspires a client to
explore new avenues in the way she lives and dresses.’
The client: Leandra Roelofsz, 42. ‘What I enjoy most
about Terence is that he takes your personality and style into
consideration when deciding on a hairstyle for you. I think
everything should work together – clothes, personality and
hairstyle – and he understands that. I’ve been coming to Terenzo
for almost 10 years and love the pampering I get here. I like
what Terence does with my hair – it’s funky and playful.’
Setting the trend. ‘The bob is big right now,’ says Terence,
‘but I don’t think a “perfect” bob suits more mature women.
The lines are too harsh. I use the bob as a base, then soften
it with a diagonal fringe or some layering around the crown,
depending on the shape of the client’s face. I also soften the
baseline by using a technique called slide cutting. I have clients
in their sixties who love the layered bobs I do for them. It’s easy
to style and adds a fresh, modern feel that doesn’t leave them
feeling or looking like mutton dressed as lamb.’
Make-up Melody Cokayne
The stylist: Sarieta Pillman of Gary Rom Hairdressing.
‘Colour is very important, especially as grey hair becomes more
of an issue. Your hair colour must complement your skin tone.
Bad colour makes you look dull and washed out – you notice
bad colour long before you notice a bad cut. Gentler, paler
shades are definitely more suitable for the mature woman. Skin
analysis should form part of a consultation package. I drape silver
and gold shawls on clients to identify which shades will enhance
their complexion. I decide on something that is fashionable, then
adapt it to suit the client. Colouring also bulks up the hair shaft,
which gives hair more volume and makes it easier to manage. I
prefer to stick to medium-length hair on more mature women.
If hair is too long, it can “drag” the features down and make the
face appear hard. If it’s too short, it can be too severe.’
The client: Sarie Meintjies, 54. ‘Changing my hair colour
has really changed my appearance,’ says Sarie (above left). ‘I’ve
had many compliments and I don’t stress about the grey that
much anymore. I think I look 10 years younger!’
Setting the trend. ‘I believe in adapting trends so that they
work for the individual,’ says Sarieta. ‘I cut Sarie’s hair into what
started out as a bob, then layered and textured it to make it
softer and more flattering. I always look at the shape of a client’s
face and focus on its best features, then decide on a cut that I
think will best suit her. Cutting a shattered fringe frames the
eyes, while soft layers cradle the cheekbones. Blunt cuts are out
– more feathery styles are best because they soften the features
and help to make thin or thinning hair appear much thicker.’
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