PetFocus issue 50

Top Tips and Expert Advice For All Your Pet Needs
£3.25
OUTDOOR DANGERS!
The garden,
the garage and
the Easter egg hunt
How to:
Fit a dog
harness
A summer
guide to fleas
and ticks
TOP TIPS
A dog owner’s
guide to first aid
SPRING 2017

Multi-site referral and outpatient service
• Soft tissue surgery
• Oncology
• Ophthalmology
• Orthopaedics
• Dentistry and oral surgery
• Dermatology
• Advanced diagnostic imaging
• Physiotherapy and hydrotherapy
• Companion animal behaviour
www.nvrs.co.uk

Editor’s letter
As we are celebrating our 50 th issue, it seemed a
good time to explore the archives and look over
some of the articles we’ve featured since our
launch. It came as an unexpected and poignant
reminder to review some of the major human
events through which animals have stood
courageously beside us, saving lives without
question or judgement.
In 2007, 14 police explosives dogs sniffed out
safe routes for the emergency services following
the 7/7 bombings in London, despite the chaos,
danger and human trauma they faced. Hundreds
of canine search and rescue teams were deployed
to the World Trade Centre and the Pentagon in the US after the events of 9/11.
Metropolitan Police horses and dogs safeguarded life and property during the
London riots in 2011. The list goes on...
These stories, among many others, serve as a reminder of the extraordinary
courage and loyalty of animals, and how much we depend upon them in times of
crisis, as well as in everyday life.
Reviewing articles and events over the past 15 years or so underlined that there
is also an abundance of people who devote their lives to protecting animals and
improving their welfare, as well as countless animal heroes who serve us in so
many ways.
Going forward into the next 50 issues, our goal will be to continue demonstrating
the key role that animals play in our lives, and the need to provide them with the
best possible life and standard of care.
We hope you enjoy this, our special 50 th edition.
Best wishes
Sarah Kidby, Editor
Editorial Team
Editor
Sarah Kidby
editorial@petfocus.com
01359 245 310
Associate editor
David Watson
BVetMed MA MRCVS
Graphic design
Bradley Young,
Melody-Anne Neville,
Hanneke Lambert &
Gemma Baker
designer@visionline.co.uk
Production coordinator
Carole Bloys
carole.bloys@visionline.co.uk
Writer
Clara Ashcroft
clara.ashcroft@visionline.co.uk
Subscriptions
subscriptions@petfocus.com
Published by © 2017 Vision Media, a
department of Central Veterinary Services
All rights reserved. Reproduction, in part or in whole,
is strictly prohibited without the prior consent of
the publisher. The content of this magazine is based
on the best knowledge and information available at
the time of publication. Every effort has been made
to ensure that all advertisements and editorial are
correct at the time of going to press. The views
expressed by the authors are not necessarily those
of the publisher, proprietor, or others associated
with its production. © Images used under licence
from Shutterstock, Inc. and iStock.com
ISSN: 1744-6562
The paper used for the publication is a recyclable
and renewable product. It has been produced using
wood sourced from sustainably managed forests
and elemental or total chlorine-free bleached pulp.
This magazine can be recycled.
Contributors
Jane Ellison
BSc(Hons)
Jane is an information scientist who helped
to found the Veterinary Poisons Information
Service (VPIS). She has worked for VPIS
and the human poisons service at Guy’s
Hospital since 1984 and is part of VPIS’ 24
hour rota team.
Karen Wild
BA(Hons) Dip App Psych
A full-time behaviour counsellor and
trainer with Pawprint, Karen has 18 years’
experience in the field. She is guest lecturer
at Anglia Ruskin University and the author
of What Your Dog Wants (Hamlyn), 21 Days
to the Perfect Dog and Being a Dog. Contact:
01778 560 465 or info@pawprintpets.com.
Ian Wright
BVMS MSc MRCVS
Ian is a practising veterinary surgeon,
co-owner of a practice and head of the
European Scientific Counsel of Companion
Animal Parasites (ESCCAP). He is also a
guideline director for ESCCAP Europe
and has a Master’s degree in Veterinary
Parasitology. Ian is regularly published in
peer reviewed journals, as well as peer
reviewing himself, and is an editorial board
member for Companion.
Francesca Riccomini
BSc(Hons) BVetMed CCAB MRCVS
DipAS(CABC)
Francesca is an author, speaker and
experienced small animal vet, specialising
in behavioural medicine. She is an ASAB
accredited Certified Clinical Animal
Behaviourist and a member of the iCatCare
Behavioural Advisory Panel.
Claire Speight
RVN C&GCertVNES A1 assessor
Claire qualified as a veterinary nurse in
2007 and gained the City and Guilds
Certificate in Veterinary Nursing of Exotic
Species in 2009. She works as a senior
nurse in Northamptonshire and lectures
to veterinary nurses and owners on
rabbit care. She is also editor of Rabbiting
On magazine.
Tom Dutton
BVM&S MRCVS CertAVP(ZooMed)
After finishing his veterinary degree at the
University of Edinburgh, Tom completed
a one-year rotating internship and a three
year ECZM(avian) residency. He now works
as a referral avian and exotic clinician at
Great Western Exotics in Swindon. Contact:
01793 603 800 or tom.dutton@vets-now.com.
Marie Rippingale
BSc(Hons) REVN clinical coach G-SQP
DipHE CVN DipAVN(equine)
Marie has a degree in Equine Sports Science
from Nottingham Trent University and
is now a clinical coach and head equine
nurse. She lectures for a Veterinary Nursing
Diploma course and runs the final year for
equine students at her practice.
Welcome
Editor’s photograph © Mara Acoma

Contents
Spring 2017
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8
9
10
12
14
News
The latest updates from the animal world, including new
research that suggests ‘puppy talk’ works and concerning
statistics on illegally imported puppies.
What’s research got to do with it?
A recent survey shows that one in four pet owners do
no research before buying a pet. So how does impulse
buying affect animal welfare?
The great British mousers
Have you been keeping up with the antics of Larry the
cat and his parliamentary co-workers? We found out all
about the country’s most famous mousers.
ON THE COVER
Our 50 th issue!
Celebrate our 50 th issue by taking a trip down memory
lane with us...
ON THE COVER
Outdoor dangers
The garden, the garage and the Easter egg hunt. Make
sure you’re aware of these dangers to our pets, which can
be found just outside the back door.
ON THE COVER
Harness the power
A harness can be much safer and more comfortable for
our dogs than a traditional collar/lead combo. But how
do you choose the right one?
16
18
20
22
24
25
Why does my dog...?
Stare at me? Roll in smelly things? Our behaviourist
answers these and more puzzling questions about our
dogs’ behaviour.
ON THE COVER
Be prepared
It’s natural for us to panic when our pets are hurt and it
can be difficult to know what to do in their hour of need.
Which is why our vet has put together a handy guide to
dog emergencies.
Grumpy dogs and grouchy cats
Aggressive behaviour in our pets could be a sign of pain.
Karen Wild explains how to tell if your pet is in pain and
what to do about it.
The truth about Buster
Buster the boxer was this year’s star of the John Lewis
Christmas advert. Worryingly, it was followed by an
unprecedented rise in the number of people looking for
boxer puppies online.
ON THE COVER
Be ready, spring is here...
And so are fleas and ticks! Expert Ian Wright tells us all
about these pesky parasites and how to protect your pet
– and yourself.
Cat owners be aware...
Our vet explains the dangers of permethrin, which is
highly toxic to cats, and found in many ‘spot-on’ dog
flea treatments.
9 14 18 22

27
37
38
41
42
44
46
Kids Club
Learn about the important job cats did during World War
Two, and try out our fun activity pages on frogs, toads
and newts!
Your PetFocus
A selection of your pet photos.
A day in the life
Dog agility trainer Rachel Chisnall told us about her
rewarding work and why dog owners should give this
sport a try.
Tales from the vets
Buddy the Labrador arrived at the vets with ongoing
lameness, but thanks to advanced technology, he was
soon on the road to recovery.
Your golden oldie
Agile as a kitten, nimble as a cat? Our vet David Watson
tells us how to spot the signs of arthritis, and how to
make your cat more comfortable.
A match made in heaven?
When it comes to bringing home a feline friend,
snap decisions can result in unhappy unions. Cat
behaviourist Francesca Riccomini shares the secret to
happy relationships.
Carried away
Our top tips will help you achieve worry-free journeys
with your cat by getting him used to sitting peacefully in
his carrier.
48
50
52
54
56
58
The forgotten workforce
For many developing countries, working equines are vital
to the economy, but a large percentage live in terrible
conditions. The Brooke charity is working to change that.
You are what you eat
Diet is the key to preventing many common health
problems in rabbits. Registered veterinary nurse Claire
Speight explains the dos and don’ts of feeding.
Keeping aquatic turtles
While these can make excellent pets, they are among the
most challenging reptile species to keep. Exotics vet Tom
Dutton provides some general advice.
Safety first
An expert guide to help horse owners understand their
animal’s behaviour and avoid injuries.
An icon under threat
We found out more about the koala, one of Australia’s
most iconic species, which is dwindling due to a number
of threats.
Fancy a bit of a puzzle?
Food puzzles are proven to reduce the signs of stress
in cats, and can contribute to weight loss. Why not try
making your own?
38 46 50 52

News
Pet News
Catch up on
the latest
news from the
animal world.
Millions of Britain’s pets are lonely, report finds
More than two million dogs are left alone for five hours or more on a standard weekday,
according to the latest PDSA Animal Well-being (PAW) report.
“Ideally, dogs shouldn’t be left alone for more than four hours on a typical day,” said PDSA
vet Rebecca Ashman. Loneliness and boredom can lead to frustration and destructive
behaviour in dogs.
Likewise, rabbits are highly sociable and need the company of their own kind, but the report
found 780,000 rabbits still live alone. Cats, on the other hand, are solitary animals but PDSA
figures show 2.3 million are living in homes with one or more cats they dont get along with.
Puppy talk works, scientists say
Many of us talk to our dogs in a high pitched voice, similar to the ‘baby talk’ we use for
human babies. But for the first time, scientists from the University of Lyon/Saint-Etienne have
investigated how this impacts canine behaviour.
They found that puppies are highly reactive to this type of speech, which suggests it ‘has a
functional value in young dogs’, engaging their attention and promoting human-puppy
interaction. Older dogs, however, did not react any differently to ‘puppy talk’, compared with
normal speech.
Brexit could put wildlife at risk, MPs warn
The UK’s wildlife, farming and habitats could come under threat when we leave
the EU, unless the government takes action, MPs warned as they called for a new
Environmental Protection Act.
EU law provides the UK with key environmental protections which will no longer
apply after Brexit. Simply copying the legislation into UK law will not be enough
for up to a third of the UK’s protections. There is a risk legislation would no longer
be updated or enforced.
Keep horse’s insurance details to hand
Horse owners are being advised to keep their animal’s insurance certificate on hand in
case veterinary treatment is required. Having the details handy will help owners to make
informed choices and allow the vet to check the level of cover, the British Equine Veterinary
Association (BEVA) says.
An accident or severe bout of colic could require expensive emergency surgery and it’s
important to be able to make quick decisions. BEVA and KBIS British Equestrian Insurance
have put together some tips to help you to be prepared: beva.org.uk/Home/Resources/
Resources-for-Owners/Insurance
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Tilikum © Seaworld; Skywalker hoolock © Fan Pengfei; The Queen © Battersea Dogs & Cats Home

Breed specific legislation ‘has failed’
Members of the London Assembly have called for a formal review of the Dangerous Dogs Act
1991, as they believe breed specific legislation (BSL) – which effectively bans four types of dog –
has failed to protect public health and dog welfare.
News
Assembly members called for stronger, more extensive legislation to cut the number of dog
attacks and bring irresponsible owners to justice, as well as more collaboration between the
government, police, local councils and charities.
A third of vets suspect illegal puppy imports
One in three vets say they have seen puppies that they believe were illegally imported from overseas
in the past year alone. This is according to a recent survey by the British Veterinary Association (BVA).
Vets’ suspicions were raised by several factors, including foreign microchips, health problems and
the pup’s age not matching that given in its passport.
Illegally imported dogs are often poorly bred, without vaccinations or health checks, which can
result in serious – or even fatal – illnesses. BVA says owners should speak to their local vet before
buying a puppy, and use tools such as the ‘puppy contract’ to help ensure their pet is happy and
healthy. For more information, see: puppycontract.rspca.org.uk.
Pet Shorts
SeaWorld orca Tilikum dies
SeaWorld has announced that one of its most famous orcas, Tilikum, has died at the age of 36. Tilikum
starred in the documentary Blackfish, which strongly criticised SeaWorld. The controversial ‘One Ocean’
show at SeaWorld San Diego also ended recently. The park says it will be replaced with a new show
focusing on natural behaviours.
Calls to list cheetah as ‘endangered’
Cheetahs may be far more vulnerable to extinction than previously thought,
according to new research which estimates there are just 7,100 left in the world.
Unless urgent, landscape-wide conservation action is taken, the species could
be lost forever, scientists warned, as they called for cheetahs to be up-listed from
‘vulnerable’ to ‘endangered’.
New gibbon named after Star Wars character
A new gibbon species has been discovered in south-west China and named after
Luke Skywalker. The ‘Skywalker hoolock’ was so named as a nod to its treetop
home, and the historical Chinese view of them as almost mystical beings. Sadly,
scientists are already calling for the species to be listed as endangered.
The Queen steps back from animal charities
Following the Queen’s 90 th birthday year in 2016 she is ending her patronage of 25 charities,
including the Animal Health Trust (AHT), Battersea Dogs and Cats Home and the Wildfowl
and Wetlands Trust. The charities thanked her for decades of support. Other members of the
royal family will take over the patronages.
Keep up-to-date with the latest pet news with PetFocus online!
Find us on Facebook at: fb.me/petfocus & follow us on Twitter: @PetFocusOnline
facebook.com/petfocus twitter.com/petfocusonline 7

News
What’s research got
to do with it?
The dangers of impulse buying.
Clara Ashcroft
How much research would you do before getting a pet? Perhaps
looking on the internet, taking advice from friends and family,
relying on your previous experience of pet ownership? Or would
you carry out more extensive research?
Recent studies shows that one in every four pet owners do no research
at all before getting a pet, a number equating to 5.2 million people.
The finding was highlighted in the PDSA’s Animal Well-being (PAW)
report 2016, which also found that just five per cent of pet owners
spoke to a vet before they took on an animal. So how important is this
research? Well, it could have wide-ranging impacts on animal welfare.
One of the most alarming findings to come out of the report was that
some pet owners vastly underestimated the lifetime costs of their
chosen pet. A staggering 12 per cent of pet owners thought their pet
would cost them just £500. Compare this to the actual lifetime cost
(£21,000-£33,000 for a dog and £17,000-£24,000 for a cat), it becomes
clear that cost of ownership is one of the most poorly understood
aspects of pet ownership.
The report also found that 65 per cent of pet owners are unaware of
the Animal Welfare Act 2006, and the five welfare needs. These include:
1) the need for a suitable environment; 2) the need for a suitable diet;
3) the need to be able to express normal behaviour; 4) the need to live
with, or apart from, other companion animals and 5) the need to be
protected from pain and suffering.
Commenting on the findings, PDSA’s senior vet Sean Wensley said:
“There is little doubt that we are still a nation of animal-lovers. But the
PAW Report highlights that impulse-buying is still an issue of great
concern, and shows no sign of improving.
“Little or no research before getting a pet means owners have limited
understanding of what their pets require thought their lives, which is
undoubtedly leading to an array of other troubling pet welfare problems.”
The PAW report also shed light on where owners would consider
getting a pet. While many of those surveyed purchased pets from
recommended breeders and rehoming centres, many said they would
still consider getting a pet from other sources, such as classified
websites and supermarkets.
Organisations like the Pet Advertising Advisory Group (PAAG) have
made substantial gains in making the internet a safer place for potential
pet purchasers. However, the group stresses that consumers must
remain vigilant. “Worryingly these statistics show how open owners
are to these means of finding a pet,” said PAAG’s chair Paula Boyden.
In light of the report’s findings, the PDSA are encouraging pet owners to
speak to their vet before buying an animal to ensure that they choose
the most suitable pet for their lifestyle. Vets can also advise on the
most responsible sources to get pets from and what health screening
they might need.
Key reasons why owning a pet is
not as easy as it looks:
• it’s more expensive than I expected
• my pet has behavioural issues
• my pet has health issues
• my family situation has changed since I took on a pet.
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The great
Cats
British mousers
Meet the government’s
five feline employees.
Clara Ashcroft
For the first time in history, the British government has five official
feline employees, charged with keeping parliamentary buildings
free from mice. Their unique characters have landed them in the
papers nearly as often as their human counterparts of late, so we took
a closer look at the country’s top felines.
In the news
Larry and Palmerston have been in the midst of a wellpublicised
feud for months, eventually leading to the
pair being split up after several major public spats.
Since moving into No. 10, the Chancellor of the Exchequer,
Phillip Hammond, has reportedly been forced to keep his dogs
out of Larry’s ‘domain’ to avoid any clashes.
Larry, Gladstone and Palmerston © Battersea Dogs and Cats Home; Evie and Ossie © Cabinet Office
Larry
Chief mouser to the
Cabinet Office
Now a national treasure,
Larry joined Downing Street
in February 2011 after he
was adopted from Battersea
Dogs & Cats Home. Larry
replaced the previous
Downing Street cat, Sybil,
who died in 2009.
Larry spends his time at
No.10 greeting guests,
inspecting security defences
and snoozing on antique
furniture. His official duties
also include keeping the
mouse population under
control, but Downing Street
states this is still “in tactical
planning stages”.
Gladstone
Chief mouser to Her
Majesty’s Treasury
Gladstone is named after
William Ewart Gladstone
who served as Prime Minister
for four separate periods.
Arriving at the Treasury in
July 2016, Gladstone is a
former stray who is often
seen sporting a red and white
polkadot bow tie.
Ahead of Westminster’s
Open House Weekend (15-
16 September), Gladstone
was fitted with a camera to
give the public a unique cat’seye
view of the building. In a
short film, the parliamentary
feline can be seen strutting
down the department’s
corridors, peeking into
offices and having
doors held open for him.
Palmerston
Chief mouser to the Foreign
& Commonwealth Office
Palmerston is named after
Lord Palmerston, a former
Prime Minister described
as “a charismatic and
popular figure”.
Rehomed from Battersea
Dogs & Cats Home in April
2016, Palmerston is described
as a confident cat who “loves
being with people and enjoys
a good chin rub”. During the
day, Palmerston keeps his
eagle eye out for unwanted
rodents. When not on patrol,
he resides in the office of
Sir Simon McDonald, the
Foreign Office’s most senior
civil servant.
Evie and Ossie
Cabinet Office mousers
Evie and Ossie are the latest
additions to Downing Street,
arriving from the Celia
Hammond Trust in December
2016. Evie is thought to be
named after Dame Evelyn
Sharp, the first female
permanent secretary, while
Ossie takes his name from
Sir Edward Osmotherly, who
authored the rules for civil
servants giving evidence to
select committees.
Evie and Ossie have the run
of four floors at the Whitehall
office and bring the total
number of mousers in
Westminster to five.
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Our 50
th
issue!
You hold in your hands the 50 th issue of PetFocus, which launched more than
10 years ago with the aim of promoting responsible pet care.
We decided to celebrate by taking you on a little trip down memory lane...
2010
Marking five years since the 7/7
bombings in London, we featured
an article on some of the 14 police
explosives search dogs who
bravely sniffed out safe routes for
the emergency services.
2004
Our very first issue! PetFocus
began appearing in veterinary
practices to provide tips on caring
for a wide variety of pets – furry,
feathered, scaly and hoofed.
2008
We interviewed TV presenter
Michaela Strachan about her
work on wildlife programmes,
including The Elephant Diaries,
a series about orphaned baby
elephants in Kenya.
2006
The Animal Welfare Act 2006 came
into effect, making it an offence
to cause unnecessary suffering to
animals and enshrining in law the
five welfare needs pet owners are
required to meet.
2007
- We paid tribute to the 250-300
canine search and rescue teams
that were deployed to the World
Trade Centre and the Pentagon
in the US, following the events of
September 11, 2001.
2009
Oscar the cat became the first in
the world to receive two bionic
leg implants following an accident
with a combine harvester.
2005
We launched our Kids Club pages,
to help educate the next generation
of responsible pet owners.
- Canine Partners began training
assistance dogs to use cash
machines, after Labrador Endal
famously jumped up to take his
struggling owner’s card, cash and
receipt from an ATM.
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2011
Former stray cat Larry arrived at
Number 10 Downing Street after
landing the top job; chief mouser
to the Cabinet.
2015
- Channel 4’s Supervet Noel
Fitzpatrick told us why he became
a vet and what inspires him to
develop new and innovative
surgeries for our pets.
© Her Majesty’s Government
2013
- PetFocus got a refresh, with
a brand new design and lots
of exciting new features,
including our eight-page pullout
children’s magazine.
- We were honoured to be invited
to the annual Blue Cross Tea Party
in Covent Garden, London, where
we got to meet the celebrity
pooches and rescue dogs who
strutted up the red carpet.
2014
- For the first and only time, our
cover featured a famous canine
– Britain’s Got Talent winner Pudsey,
who wowed the nation with his
dance moves back in 2012.
- We chatted to Dame Jacqueline
Wilson, one of the world’s best
loved children’s authors, whose
adopted cats inspired her to
release an anthology of children’s
stories about animals.
- Marking 100 years since the
start of World War One, we
explored the vital roles played
by 16 million animals who served.
- To mark Remembrance Day
(8 November) we were asked
to provide a free educational
workshop on the role of animals
in war at Ipswich Veterinary
Centre. It was a privilege to
share stories and resources with
hundreds of guests throughout
the day.
2012
Queen Elizabeth II celebrated
her Diamond Jubilee after 60
years on the throne. To show our
appreciation, we featured an
article on her favoured canine
companion, the corgi, which has
enjoyed royal status since 1933.
© ROAR Global
2016
- We released our first ever
calendar, in conjunction with Pets
Place, featuring 12 of our reader’s
pets enjoying the seasons.
- We started our working dogs
series, beginning with radio
presenter Jill Barkley, who told
us about the guide dogs that
transformed her life after she lost
her sight at 19.
© PDSA
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Pet Advice
Outdoor dangers
The garden, the garage
and the Easter egg hunt.
Jane Ellison BSc(Hons)
Our garages and garden sheds are often a useful space to store all
sorts of things that are not needed year-round, or that we would
rather not have in the house. But many of these can pose a threat
to our pets, who generally love exploring outside and tend to view any
item as a potential edible treat.
Ethylene glycol (antifreeze)
After the trials of winter, antifreeze is often left forgotten in a corner. Ideally,
it should be securely closed and stored well out of reach of pets, as even
tiny amounts (often not much more than a teaspoon) can prove fatal to
cats. Dogs are also at risk from spillages or unsecured bottles.
If you suspect your pet has had access to, or been in contact with, antifreeze,
take them to the vet as a matter of utmost urgency. A good outcome
depends on the animal receiving treatment as quickly as possible.
Bags of cement
Whether for ambitious DIY projects, or left over from a home’s previous
occupants, these are a hazard if a cat or dog starts playing with, jumping
on or chewing the bag and thus dispersing the contents.
Cement powder is highly alkaline, which can lead to serious, deeply
penetrating burns. The initial exposure often does not cause pain,
resulting in a delay between the incident and treatment. If you see
cement powder on your pet, wash it off as quickly as possible with
lots of water and, again, take the animal to the vet immediately, even
if there appears to be no pain or injury.
Miscellaneous substances
Sheds and garages seem to be the natural home for paints, decorating
and DIY supplies, oils and all things sticky, and pets have a way of
getting covered in all of them. Never try to use chemicals, such as
white spirit, to remove these substances from your pet’s fur; they
are generally of low toxicity, but your pet will need to be assessed
by your vet to gauge the extent of the exposure, the nature of the
substance and whether ingestion has also occurred.
Sticky, oily preparations are hard to remove using water, but the
application of a vegetable-based oil or butter prior to the use of
water may make this easier. If your pet is coughing, vomiting or
retching, take them to your vet immediately.
“Pets love exploring
outside and tend to
view any item as a
potential edible treat.”
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Seasonal pastimes
Easter is of course the time for Easter egg hunts and dogs will waste
no time joining in the fun and tracking down chocolate – however
cleverly it is hidden. Not known for their sense of portion control,
dogs have the potential to ingest large amounts of chocolate which
can be problematic.
Pet Advice
If your pet ingests dark chocolate, there may well be vomiting,
diarrhoea and some central nervous system effects; take them to
your vet and try to estimate how much chocolate has been ingested,
and how long ago.
Milk chocolate can also cause similar problems, but larger quantities
are required to cause concern. Your vet will be able to advise you
over the phone as to whether you need to attend the practice. Again,
try to give the vet an idea of the time course and the amounts of
chocolate involved.
White chocolate only contains cocoa butter, no cocoa solids, and
as such does not represent a hazard in terms of chocolate toxicity.
Large amounts of white chocolate will contain correspondingly
large amounts of sugar and fat, but this will generally only result in
gastrointestinal effects, and probably a dog who feels very pleased
with himself!
Cleaning products
If the spring weather inspires you to clean patios or decking,
always ensure pets are kept well away for as long as possible,
as skin contact with certain products – especially in cats – can
lead to extensive and excessive grooming. Signs of exposure
are often delayed, in some cases for 11 hours, and may include
hyper-salivation or drooling, tongue and oral ulceration, and
inappetence. Breathing can be adversely affected and the animal’s
paws may be swollen and sore.
Again, take your pet to the vet if you suspect any contact with this
class of product.
Fertiliser
Bags of fertiliser are often to be found in the garden during the
spring planting season, and dogs in particular seem to take great
delight in ingesting large quantities. This can lead to vomiting and
diarrhoea, which may result in your pet becoming dehydrated.
There may also be some irritation of the mouth and gums, so if
you see your dog ingesting fertiliser, wash out his mouth with
water and contact your vet, if possible with the exact name of
the product involved.
Bulbs
Spring is also the time for bulb planting; any plant material not
intended for consumption can cause gastrointestinal effects and
daffodil bulbs seem to be a particular favourite for dogs, causing
hyper-salivation, vomiting and diarrhoea. There may also be some
abdominal discomfort and lethargy. Although treatment is rarely
required, contact your vet to let them know what has happened
and how your pet is.
Slug bait
This is extremely harmful to cats and dogs and very small amounts
can cause convulsions and death if ingested. Keep your pets away
from slug bait at all times, and rush your animal to the vet if you
suspect ingestion.
Seasonal summary
Antifreeze: tiny amounts can cause death in cats and dogs,
so always keep bottles properly sealed and away from pets.
Slug bait: ingestion of small amounts can cause convulsions
and death in pets, so ideally avoid use in the gardens where
there are companion animals.
Cement powder: can cause initially pain-free burns. Your
pet will need prompt, prolonged treatment at the veterinary
surgery to prevent serious and permanent injury.
Patio cleaners: highly irritant and toxic, especially to cats.
Fertilisers and bulbs: may cause mild, moderate or severe
gastrointestinal effects.
Chocolate: can be problematic for pets depending on the
type and amount eaten.
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Dogs
Harness the power
How to choose a
harness for your dog.
Sarah Kidby
The traditional collar and lead combo can put a lot of pressure on
a dog’s delicate throat area during walks, particularly when they
are straining to reach fascinating smells on the next lamppost.
A harness combats this by distributing weight more evenly across
the chest. So, if your dog tends to pull on the lead or cough/choke, a
harness will offer protection and comfort.
Another bonus is that a harness gives you more control, which can be
helpful if your dog makes a habit of darting off in different directions,
pulling you along with him. Some harnesses can even be clipped into
a car seat belt, making journeys safer.
Which measurements to take
It’s easiest to take your dog into the shop for a harness fitting, but if
that is not possible there are some measurements you will need to
take. There is no universal sizing method for harnesses, so your dog
may be a medium in one brand, and a small in another.
Make a note of his weight – if you don’t know it already, weigh yourself
on a set of scales, then pick your dog up and step on the scales again.
Subtract your own weight from the total to get your dog’s weight.
Grab a tape measure and measure around the widest part of your dog’s
neck, starting at the breast bone. Then measure around his chest, just
behind the forelegs (Figure 1).
Putting the harness on
There are various types of harness and figuring out how to put them
on can be somewhat confusing at first. Generally, they fall into one of
two categories: over-head or step-in.
Over-head
A basic guide
Over the head
Around
the head
Under
the belly
Step-in
Left legR
gRight leg
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Measurements
Dogs
Neck
Chest
Choosing a harness
When you head out to buy a harness, there are a plethora
of different types to choose from. We have selected a few
to help you make the right choice.
Figure 1: Measure the widest part of your dog’s neck, and around his chest.
Padded
With comfort in mind,
this harness is made from
breathable, soft air mesh. It
spreads the weight across
the chest to provide far
more comfort than a collar
and lead.
Training harness
Aiming to stop dogs
pulling kindly, this harness
has a unique front design
to control the dog from
the chest and shoulders.
Ideally, use with a doubleended
training lead.
Roman harness
The non-restrictive design
helps to protect your dog’s
throat, reducing strain on
the neck and back.
How to adjust
The harness should be a snug fit, but not too tight. As a rule, ensure
you can get two fingers between the harness and your dog (check
the neck and chest area).
Soft step-in harness
For dark evening walks,
this harness has the
added benefit of being
reflective. Made with a
soft lining for comfort.
A poorly fitting harness can result in rubbing and soreness, so it’s
important it doesn’t slide about. Equally, your dog must be able to
expand his ribcage fully when breathing heavily, and the harness
should not restrict movement.
To check the fit and make sure your dog is comfortable, let him
wander around the house wearing the harness for a few minutes
before venturing out.
How to get your dog used to a harness
Some dogs find it strange when you put a harness on them for the
first time, so take some time to help them adjust. Get them to sit
for a tasty treat while you fit the harness, and always reward calm
behaviour with a treat and praise. It may be helpful to put the harness
on for a few minutes in the house first, leaving it on for a little bit
longer each time.
Soft puppy harness
and lead
Made from nylon and
robust mesh material for
comfort. This harness is
suitable for small breeds.
Our top five
harnesses
For advice on any products call: 01284 748 400
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Quirks of the canine
5 common and puzzling habits.
Emma Robins BSc(Hons)
Though we love them dearly, it has to be
said that our dogs have some habits that
are hard to comprehend, as well as many
endearing quirky behaviours. Our canine
behaviourist, Emma Robins BSc(Hons), has
trained dogs in obedience and behaviour
modification, as well as for television,
theatre and photographic work. She has a
degree in animal management, in addition
to qualifications in canine aggression and
behaviour. She is also a member of the
Kennel Club’s Accredited Instructor scheme.
Here, she explores five canine customs, and
why they do it.
Why does my dog...
1. Dig in the garden?
If you look at the ancestry of the dog, their wild relatives would
have found food and buried it so they could retrieve it later. That
innate instinct still runs strong in today’s dogs, so you may find Fido
behaving in the same manner with his bones, toys or possibly one
of your possessions.
Lack of mental or physical stimulation manifests itself in a number
of ways and digging could also represent boredom or frustration.
Pent up energy must be released and digging could be one way
that your dog is able to do that. If this is the case for your dog,
you will need to find another healthy avenue to keep his brain
and body active; agility trials, obedience training or flyball are just
a few suggestions. Training can also be done at home if time or
finances are an issue.
Alternatively there may be something on the other side of the fence
that your dog is trying to get to, such as another dog or animal.
Disturbances or noises caused by your neighbour moving around
in their garden may prompt your pet to investigate.
You may find that your dog’s digging isn’t restricted to the garden;
some dogs will dig in their bed as well. The theory is that dogs
perform such actions to make the area comfortable or to help cool
them down or warm them up.
2. Lick me?
People show affection in a number of ways; vocalising our feelings and/
or expressing it through cuddling and physical contact. Many people
assume their dog is doing the same by licking them, but is this really
the reason or do they have another agenda?
When dogs lick us, their bodies actually produce endorphins – hormones
that produce a feeling of contentment and help them to relax.
In the wild, puppies would lick their mother’s mouth when they are
hungry, prompting her to regurgitate food for them. As they get
older (and this can also apply to domestic dogs), they may lick other
canines and, if allowed to, possibly their owners around the mouth as
a form of appeasing behaviour.
Dogs also like to lick the palms of our hands and feet because they enjoy
the taste of our salty skin, which is created by sweating.
Importantly, dogs are very quick to learn what gains a reaction from
us, whether that reaction comes in the form of negative or positive
attention, such as shouting, pointing, pushing away, cuddles or being
spoken to gently. Dogs will only continue to perform a behaviour if they
get something from it. Any behaviour that does not benefit them in
any way will be very quickly extinguished and no longer used.
Whether a person enjoys being licked or not, whatever reaction they
give may be sufficient to reinforce the dog’s licking behaviour.
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4. Tilt his head when
I speak?
At some point or another, most of us will have taken pleasure in
seeing a dog do the cute ‘head tilt’ upon hearing a strange noise
or word. But why do they do this? Depending on the dog and the
situation, there could be a number of explanations.
The canine ear is formulated differently to our own ears, so when
a dog hears a sound they may tilt their head in order to locate
where the noise is coming from, but also to enable them to hear
it more clearly.
Dogs like to be able to see our faces to read our full expression and,
combining this with observations on our body language, they are
able to determine our mood. Dogs with larger muzzles may tilt their
head in order to see our faces better. It has also been suggested
that this allows dogs to empathise with our feelings.
3. Stare at me?
When we communicate with one another, humans use verbal speech
accompanied by body language to portray our thoughts and feelings.
In the canine world, however, eye contact is the number one form of
communication, followed closely by body language. The way dogs
vary their eye contact can have a number of meanings.
Staring or making eye contact with another animal or person
can demonstrate challenging and confrontational behaviour –
particularly if the white of the eyes are visible (sometimes called
‘whale eyes’). If your dog demonstrates this behaviour to another
person or animal, particularly on a regular basis, it must not be
ignored. Coupled with certain other body language signals,
it could really demonstrate reactive/aggressive behaviour. If you
are in any doubt as to whether this may or may not be occurring,
always speak to a professional behaviourist who can advise you.
When demonstrating calming signals, dogs will generally look away
from their owner or another animal to show they are friendly and
not challenging in any way. These are friendly, yielding behaviours
and owners should not assume that the dog is being ‘rude’ or
disinterested by not looking at them when being spoken to. Having
said that, if enough trust is built between dog and owner, the dog may
feel comfortable enough to look at his owner’s face without being
confrontational themselves or feeling that the owner is being so.
Dogs may also stare at their owner in order to gain their attention
for various reasons. Dogs are creatures of habit and always seem to
know when it’s time to go for their daily walk or when it’s feeding
time. Therefore, staring in this instance may serve as a prompt to
the owner.
The cues we use during training help us to communicate exactly
what we need from them. This is why continuity is so important.
Otherwise, it can lead to confusion for the poor animal. When we
talk to our dogs, a head tilted to one side could be a sign that your
dog is trying to work out what you are saying and whether your
verbal dialogue is going to benefit them. Can they gain anything
from what you are saying? Are they going to get anything out of
this situation?
5. Roll in smelly things?
A number of theories have been put forward over the years as to why a
dog may do this. Some owners have even claimed their dog is doing it
to ‘spite’ them; particularly those who have bathed their beloved pooch,
only for them to go and roll on the owner’s bed while still wet or, even
worse, go straight back outside and roll in something smelly again. In that
instance, the dog most definitely isn’t doing it to spite them.
Wild dogs roll in their prey’s faeces to mask their own scent when they go
out hunting for food, which allows them to sneak up on the prey without
being detected so easily.
One ideology is that because a dog’s sense of smell is its most dominant
sense, rolling in something we may find disgusting could actually stimulate
their mental state in a positive way. Just as a nice perfume or piece of
clothing does for us.
Most owners would agree that seeing their dog rolling in something notso-nice
would usually result in them giving their dog some form of verbal
and even possibly physical correction. Owners may use a nice treat reward
in order to get their dog to stop rolling on whatever it is, for example.
Dogs are very good at forming patterns. A dog will potentially learn the
formula: rolling in muck = owner gives me a treat = I stop rolling and
get a treat. If this is the case, the owner should stop using the treat as
a distraction from the rolling, but instead reward the dog if it doesn’t
roll when told not to.
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Dogs
Be prepared
What to do in a
canine emergency.
David Watson BVetMed MA MRCVS
It is a glorious spring day. You are out for a walk in the woods with Fido,
and as he rushes in and out of the undergrowth, tongue flopping
and tail wagging, all is well with the world; until…
Every year, thousands of dogs are injured whilst out walking, involved in
road traffic accidents, have fits and heart attacks, or encounter poisonous
animals and substances. So part of being a responsible dog owner is to
be prepared to do the right thing when any emergency arises.
First ensure the safety of yourself and others, keep calm and assess
the situation before acting – injured dogs will be frightened and in
pain and may try to bite anyone who touches them. Then contact your
veterinary practice – always phone before setting off so that staff can
be prepared and advise immediate action you can take.
Accidents that can
happen anytime
Road accidents
First rule … beware of other cars! Talk gently to the dog as you approach
and move slowly, avoiding making sudden movements. Put a lead on
if possible and, if necessary, a muzzle before handling. Even if the dog
can walk, go to the vet practice – there may be internal injuries that
are not immediately obvious.
If the dog cannot walk, small dogs can be picked up by placing one
hand at the front of the chest and the other under the hindquarters.
Improvise a stretcher for larger dogs using a coat or a blanket – if the
dog is paralysed, there may be a spinal injury, so try to incorporate
something rigid, such as a board. Slide the patient gently on to this
and cover with a blanket to reduce heat loss.
Bleeding
Keep the dog quiet and calm. Apply a tight bandage – improvising
with a towel or some clothing if necessary. If blood is seeping
through, apply another tight layer. Only use a tourniquet as a
last resort.
Broken bones
Deal with serious bleeding but do not apply a splint because that will
be painful and can cause the bone to break through the skin. Confine
the patient for transport – smaller dogs can be put in a box.
In a fight
Even if your dog appears to be OK, there is always the possibility
of a shock reaction. Puncture wounds to the head, body or limbs
need immediate attention because antibiotics may be required to
prevent infection.
Heatstroke
If on a warm or hot day your dog is panting heavily and is distressed
– especially if he is short-nosed, overweight or has been exercising or
shut in a car, think heatstroke! Put him somewhere cool, preferably in a
draught, wet his coat with tepid water (cold water contracts the blood
vessels in the skin and slows heat loss) and then take to the veterinary
practice. You can offer a small amount of water to drink.
Having a fit
If your dog is having a fit, do not try to hold or comfort him, as this
provides stimulation which may prolong the fit. Darken the room,
reduce noise, pad furniture with cushions and remove electrical items
so they cannot cause injury.
Suspected poisoning
Try to identify the source (animal or plant) or product packaging and
have it with you to give details when you phone the practice. Do not
try to make your dog sick unless the vet says to do so.
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Only skin
deep but needs
serious attention
Dogs
Burns and scalds
Run cold water over these for at least five minutes. Do not apply
ointments or creams. If there is going to be a delay getting to the vets,
you can apply a soaked dressing to the area and keep the patient warm.
Insect bites
Pull out the sting below the poison sac, then bathe the area in water
or use a solution of bicarbonate of soda (bee stings) or vinegar (wasps)
if available. Applying ice will also help to soothe. If the sting is in the
mouth or throat, it may swell and interfere with breathing, so seek
urgent veterinary help.
Coat contamination
If paint, oil or tar have contaminated the coat or paws, prevent the
dog from licking – using an Elizabethan collar if you have one. Never
use turpentine or paint removers – and you may be able to clip off
small areas of affected hair. Sometimes bathing the dog in washing
up liquid or Swarfega helps, but if a large area is affected, leave it to
the veterinary practice.
Eye injuries
If the eye is bulging out of the socket, apply a wet dressing, and prevent
rubbing or scratching; if chemicals have contaminated the eye, flush
with water repeatedly (preferably from an eye drop bottle). Seek
veterinary attention.
Once in a lifetime
– keep a cool head
Distended stomach
If this happens suddenly, treat it seriously, especially if the dog is a deepchested
breed, such as a boxer or great Dane. There may also be gulping,
dribbling of saliva and attempts to vomit, which could mean there is a
life-threatening twist in the stomach, so do not delay and get urgent
veterinary help.
Ball stuck in throat
You may be able to push the ball out by pushing on the throat/neck
from the outside. If the gums or tongue are turning blue or the dog has
collapsed, try the following with help from somebody else. One person
holds the mouth open, while the other reaches inside, being careful not
to get bitten. If you cannot pull the ball out, lay the pet on his side, push
down suddenly and sharply on the abdomen, just behind the last rib. The
person holding the mouth should be ready to grab the ball as it reappears!
Drowning
Never put yourself at risk by attempting to rescue a dog – in many
instances, they rescue themselves! Wipe away material from the mouth
and nose, hold the dog upside down by the hind legs until the water has
drained out and, if breathing has stopped, attempt resuscitation.
Electric shock
If a high voltage supply is involved – for example, power lines – do not
approach. Call the police.
In the home, turn off the power first – then use a dry, non-metallic item
(such as a broom handle) to push the dog away from the power source.
If breathing has stopped, attempt resuscitation.
!
Resuscitation
• place the animal on its side
• check for signs of breathing
• open the mouth, pull the tongue forwards and check for obstructions – being
careful not to get bitten in the process
• if breathing does not start, extend the head (nose pointing forwards), hold the
mouth closed and blow into the nose about 20 times a minute
• if you cannot feel a heartbeat, push on the chest just behind the front legs every
second. Give two breaths into the nose for every 15 compressions of the chest
• if this is unsuccessful after three minutes, recovery is unlikely.
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Pet Advice
Grumpy dogs
and grouchy cats
Is your pet in pain?
Karen Wild BA(Hons) Dip App Psych
I
am often asked why behaviourists send pets for a vet check before
we will see them. The answer is, our code of practice insists upon
it, because there are strong links between an animal behaving
aggressively, and that animal being in pain.
Ever had a headache, or a stomach upset? Ever felt tired, or perhaps
pulled a muscle? These are times when we humans would happily
accept that we are not in the best of moods. We might be impatient
with someone in the family, or feel really miserable. Feeling unwell
isn’t a time to be sociable, or chatty. We can often seek medical help,
or simply take a mild painkiller and put ourselves to bed for a nice
rest and a bit of tender loving care. Woe betide the person who
nudges us causing our backs to twinge, or makes a noise when we
have a headache! It is likely we would tell them – forcefully perhaps
– to leave us alone.
It is a surprise for many of us pet owners that our dogs, cats and other
pets can feel exactly the same. They have just the same aches and
pains that all animals can experience. The difference is, they cannot
speak up and tell us this is happening.
Aggressive behaviour can be considered to be ‘distance creating’.
In other words, when a dog snaps at a hand reaching out to stroke
them, they are communicating that they want that hand, or person,
to move away. It can also be that they are protecting an area of their
body that they do not want touched.
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Assessing pain
and illness
Imagine your pet has suddenly scratched, clawed, bitten or jumped
forcibly at you in an aggressive manner. It may seem a little out of
character. They may growl, or jump away when you sit next to them.
They might nip or bite you if you move near. Sadly, the first time most of
us humans notice this response is when the pet behaves aggressively.
It is easy to ignore a dog or cat moving away, but it is not easy to ignore
a bitten finger.
Firstly, and most importantly, if you suspect your pet may be ill or in
pain, or if they behave with sudden aggression, take them straight
to your veterinary surgeon. Avoid seeking advice on the internet, or
asking on a social media forum such as Facebook. Without actually
seeing the animal, nobody can know what is the matter and something
potentially life-threatening could easily be missed. The only person
who can really help you at this point is a qualified veterinary medic,
not the kindly person at the pet shop.
Secondly, animals generally seem to conceal pain. Contrary to many
humans, they do not make a fuss or malinger, and of course they can’t
call for help. Some may whine or cry out, but usually this does not
occur until they really are in severe pain. Some pain symptoms are
species-specific and may not be seen in every animal. Every pet may
experience pain differently, so some may find a snagged claw to be
excruciating, when others will trot along with a deep cut on their pad
without showing any reaction. Never assume that just because they
don’t seem ‘bothered’, that they aren’t. We know how awful a stomach
upset feels, so if you know your pet has digestive issues, they are likely
to feel quite tender and poorly sometimes.
Subtle signs
Some signs of pain, leading to aggression later, are:
Avoidance: This not only applies to shifting away from your touch to
avoid being stroked, but also not wanting to move from their beds,
or walking away from situations. Your pet is trying to tell you what
he does not want, and he is probably feeling very miserable. They
may shake or shiver if the pain is severe, especially if they think you
are going to make them feel worse by moving or stroking them. It
might be that there are other reasons for this behaviour, but pain
must be ruled out first.
If you pursue the pet, forcing them to ‘be friendly’ or dragging them
off their beds for a fuss or a walk, that is the time when they will
bite. They feel they have no other choice to make you leave them
in painful peace.
Licking themselves: This is not always in the area that is painful, but a
pet licking themselves sore, or persistently, is another sign of ‘referred’
pain (pain from another area perhaps manifesting elsewhere). Or it
may be that the pet cannot reach the hurting spot so just licks the
nearest one.
Licking and chewing can also be very comforting and in the absence of
a chewy toy, they often lick themselves. In particular look for sores or
bald patches of fur. This, especially in cats, can often signify considerable
pain as they bite their fur short. Your pet might rub themselves along
the floor, writhe, or continually scratch. Once again, if you attempt to
stop them, they can behave aggressively towards you.
‘Grouchy’ seniors: Elderly pets can often become very grouchy, and
we sometimes attribute this to their age. However, they could easily
be suffering with arthritis or other joint problems and there is no need
to ignore their needs. Appropriate pain relief can be prescribed by
your vet, often giving your veteran dog or cat a new lease of happy
life, with no grumpiness!
Are you sleeping
comfortably?
I once visited a dog for a behaviour problem, where he was growling
at the children as they played near his bed. When I arrived he was
sleeping in a draughty area with a hard plastic bed with nothing
more than a thin fleece covering it. The vet who had previously
checked the dog had not seen signs of the dog showing pain in
the surgery, but after seeing him and referring him back to his vet,
the dog was placed on pain relieving medication immediately and
subsequently an x-ray identified a severe hip dysplasia, but due
to the dog’s tense nature during examination, this had been very
hard to identify.
Pet Advice
Make sure your pets have comfortable places to rest and keep regular
visits to the vet so that any changes can be spotted early.
Above all, your first thought when your pet behaves aggressively,
no matter how upset you feel, must be that they might be suffering
themselves. Take action.
facebook.com/petfocus twitter.com/petfocusonline 21

Dogs
The truth
about Buster
Think before you buy.
Sarah Kidby
As per usual, the John Lewis Christmas advert had us all watching,
discussing and getting into the festive mood. But last year, it
also had us Googling. After the nation watched the advert’s
adorable boxer dog Buster leaping up and down on a trampoline, the
Kennel Club saw an unprecedented rise in people searching its ‘Find a
Puppy’ service for breeders with boxer puppies.
In the day following the release of the advert, searches for boxer puppies
rose by 160 per cent. This interest in the breed continued over
the following five days, with searches up by 169 per cent. However,
searches for all breeds of dog only rose by four per cent in the same
time period.
While boxers make for an affectionate, lively and endearing family
pet, they are certainly not for everyone and the abrupt rise in their
popularity is cause for concern. Rescue organisations and the Kennel
Club fear there will be an influx of abandoned boxers this year, as new
owners realise they cannot cope with these bold, energetic characters.
So before you buy, here’s the truth about living with a boxer.
A big personality
Boxers are known for being loving, confident, highly intelligent, loyal
and exuberant. In the Kennel Club’s breed standard, they are described
as: ‘lively, strong, loyal to owner and family, but distrustful of strangers...
obedient and friendly at play but with guarding instinct’ and overall
‘equable, biddable, fearless and self assured’.
Among his quirks are plentiful drooling and messy eating habits –
something the house proud among us may wish to consider.
Energy levels
Boxers make for a fun and playful family member, but this also means
they need lots of walks and mental stimulation. If you choose this breed
as your companion, be prepared for a good two hour walk every day.
Boxers also need a large house and garden to explore – so definitely
not one for apartment dwellers.
As a large, strong dog, proper training and socialisation of this breed
is particularly important.
Are they a friend to children?
Well-socialised boxers are generally very good with children, but they
are strong, highly energetic dogs and famously blunder about without
looking where they are going. With this in mind, they may not be the
best choice if you have young children.
Human companionship
No dog should be left alone for more than four hours, but this is particularly
true of boxers, who are a real family pet and crave the company
of their owners. If you’re out at work all day, this is not the dog for you.
Health matters
All breeds of dog are prone to certain health conditions, so it is essential
to do your research, choose a responsible breeder and ask them
about health tests on the puppy’s parents.
Boxers may be particularly prone to:
• corneal ulcers, as a result of scratches to the surface of the cornea
• lymphoma or mast cell tumours
• skin conditions, e.g. dermatitis as a result of allergies, or pyoderma
(infection of the skin)
• heart disease, such as cardiomyopathy.
Useful links:
The Kennel Club: thekennelclub.org.uk/getting-a-dog-or-puppy/
living-with-buster
Boxer Breed Council: boxerbreedcouncil.co.uk
Some facts
Weight: 25-32kg (55-70lb)
Height: 21-25 inches (53-63cm)
Origin: Germany
Life span: 10-14 years
Breed group: working
Sheds coat: yes
Grooming needs: once weekly
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The safest way home
For a complete lost and found service ensure your pet is
registered with the National Veterinary Database
Ask your veterinary practice for more
information about microchipping and
pet reunification

Pet Advice
Be ready
Spring is here, and
so are fleas and ticks!
Ian Wright BVMS MSc MRCVS
As the weather warms up our thoughts inevitably turn to
barbecues and outdoor activities, but unfortunately for us and
our pets, the season also brings ideal breeding and feeding
conditions for two parasitic pests.
Fleas
These blood-sucking insects are almost all cat fleas and they can infest a
wide range of mammals, including cats, dogs, ferrets and rabbits.
Fleas are thought by many pet owners to be a seasonal problem, but
a combination of mild winters and our centrally-heated homes means
that fleas can now survive over winter and get ready for a big population
explosion in the spring. Be ready to combat the jumping menace and you
can enjoy a flea-free home.
The life cycle: Unlike lice, fleas live off the pet in your home for most of their
life stages. Adult fleas lay eggs which fall off into bedding, furniture and
carpets. These hatch into larvae and then develop into pupae. Sensing heat
and movement, adult fleas emerge and jump onto the host. People cannot
act as hosts for cat fleas but we can get bitten and develop itchy sores.
Control and prevention: Control of flea infestations is a lengthy process
as the pupae are near impossible to kill. Treating the house with sprays
containing insecticides and growth regulators, as well as daily vacuuming,
helps to hasten the process of getting rid of flea infestations.
The key, however, is treating all pets that might act as hosts in the house.
All should be treated with a product that will kill fleas before they lay eggs,
breaking the flea life cycle. If treatment lapses, fleas can start laying eggs
again and it is back to square one. Therefore, it’s best to keep treatment
going – prevention is better than cure.
Ticks
UK ticks have been in the news a lot over the past 12 months with
an outbreak of the canine tick-borne disease babesiosis in Essex and
increasing numbers of Lyme disease cases in people.
Ticks that commonly live in this country do not infest houses but
attach to people and pets that walk in tall grass, bracken and areas
shared with deer, sheep and cows. The increase in ticks and tickborne
diseases in people and pets is thought to be due partly to
a milder, wetter climate that allows ticks to be active in summer
and winter, as well as in their traditional spring and autumn feeding
times. Increased time spent on outdoor pursuits is also bringing us
into greater contact with ticks.
Nonetheless, we can still enjoy the great outdoors this spring by
taking a few simple precautions:
• cover up when in contact with grass or undergrowth, and tuck
your trousers into your socks
• consider the use of ‘pyrethroid-impregnated’ clothing. You can buy
pre-impregnated clothing or wash clothing in suitable preparations
• the bulk of Lyme disease and Babesia transmission takes at least 24
hours after the tick bite. Dogs and people who have been walking
in pasture, tall grass or undergrowth should be checked for ticks at
least every 24 hours. Carefully remove any ticks with a tick hook,
using a ‘twist and pull’ action. Alternatively, fine-tipped tweezers
can be used with a ‘straight pull’ action
• squeezing, burning or applying paraffin to ticks will stress them,
leading to increased likelihood of disease transmission. It should
therefore be avoided and blunt tweezers or fingers should not
be used for removal
• a product that rapidly kills ticks or repels them should be
considered for dogs whose lifestyle puts them at increased risk
of tick exposure.
For more information talk to your vet or visit ESCCAP UK & Ireland
(esccapuk.org.uk) for independent parasite advice – let’s keep our
pets and ourselves critter free!
Ctenocephalides felis (cat flea)
24
petfocus.com

Cat owners be aware...
The toxin you need
to know about.
You may not have heard of permethrin, but it is a very
commonly used insecticide. It is widely available and
inexpensive, and is the active ingredient in many overthe-counter
‘spot-on’ dog flea treatments found in pet shops
and supermarkets, as well as in domestic ant killers.
Permethrin belongs to a group of chemicals called pyrethroids,
derived from the chrysanthemum flower. The drug acts as
a neurotoxin in arthropods like insects and ticks, but does
not affect the nervous system of most mammals. However,
permethrin is highly toxic to cats. Unlike most other mammals,
cats are particularly sensitive to the toxic effects of permethrin,
and also lack the specific liver enzymes to break down the
drug, so it persists much longer once absorbed.
A common cause of poisoning
Permethrin toxicity is the most common poisoning reported in
cats. How does this happen? The availability of high strength
spot-on formulations of permethrin for dogs means it is freely
available and present in many households that have both dogs
and cats. The amount required to have toxic effects in cats is
very small, so a cat in contact with a recently treated dog is
at risk. However, the most common cause of toxicity is the
well meaning but deliberate application of the product by
an owner to their cat.
Flea products containing permethrin should always be labelled
as toxic in cats, but the symbols are often small or inconspicuous.
Also, owners will commonly make the assumption that cats are
small dogs, and if they only put a ‘little bit’ on the cat, then ‘it
will be fine’, especially if they suddenly discover fleas on their
pets and want to treat them as soon as possible with what they
have to hand.
Symptoms
As soon as the product is applied, it is rapidly absorbed through
the cat’s skin. In a recent study, 97 per cent of cats treated
inadvertently at home developed clinical signs. These usually
develop in a few hours, though it can take up to three days.
Initial twitching, tremors and hypersalivation give way to
incoordination and seizuring. The secondary effects of these
symptoms will rapidly lead to death if untreated.
Treatment
Immediate veterinary treatment is essential, and is usually
successful if cases are caught in time, with a reported 10 per cent
mortality. Treatment focuses on decontaminating the skin to
reduce further toxin absorption, and specific drugs are required
to control the neurological symptoms and reduce the neurotoxic
effects. Supportive intensive care is vital, as cats can be affected
for several days and require constant deep sedation whilst they
slowly metabolise the drug, as there is no specific antidote.
Going forward
If you do use these products for your dog, then ensure that cats
are separated from the dog afterwards. There is no definitive
advice on how long but up to three days may be necessary. If
you think you have accidentally put a permethrin product on
your cat, contact your vet immediately and consider washing it
off with luke warm (not hot) water and a mild detergent such as
washing up liquid. However, sensible advice is to avoid having
permethrin-based dog flea treatments in the household if you
have cats, and only ever apply products to your cat that have
been recommended by your vet.
Meet the expert
PetFocus vet
Ella Canham
BVSc MRCVS PGCertMedEd
Ella qualified from the University
of Liverpool’s School of Veterinary
Science in 1998, after which she
worked in veterinary practice
for eight years. She now works
as a tutor at the Central College
of Animal Studies and recently
completed a PGCertMedEd.
facebook.com/petfocus twitter.com/petfocusonline 25

Interested in Companion
Animal Behaviour training?
We have a wide range of courses available that enable you to:
• Start at a time that is convenient to you
• Study while you work
• Learn from leading practitioners
Talk to us about developing the skills to succeed in your professional career
For more information and an application pack
T: 01359 243 405 or E: behaviour@ccoas.org.uk
www.ccoas.org.uk

Cute Collectible
Poster
Be a vet
for the day
Gross things
our pets do
Cats in
World War II
Make your
own pond

Gross pet habits
We all have bad habits, and the animal world is no exception!
Here are some of the gross things our pets do and why.
Why does my dog drool so much?
Pets drool for all sorts of reasons – purring,
excitement, the anticipation of eating. But
slobber can also be a sign of mouth disease or
tooth decay. You should take your pet to the vet
if you are worried about this.
Why does my dog smell
other dogs’ bottoms?
Dogs can learn a lot about other
dogs by sniffing bottoms, like
what the other dog has eaten and
if they are healthy.
Why does my rabbit eat
his droppings?
As well as normal waste, rabbits
produce special, sticky pellets
called ‘cecotropes’. Rabbits eat
these because they are packed with
goodness and help protect their
tummies from harmful bacteria.
Why does my ferret dig in
his litter box?
Ferrets are natural diggers and like
to dig in their litter tray, especially
if it is clean! Help your ferret realise
that his tray is a toilet by leaving a
few droppings behind. You should
also create another place for your
ferret to dig – like a dig box – so that
he doesn’t get frustrated.
Why does my cat
cough up hairballs?
Cats get hairballs from licking
their coat. Some of the hair
they swallow stays in the
stomach and forms a ball,
which they usually get rid of
by vomiting.
Why does my dog roll in
smelly things?
Some people believe dogs choose to
roll in smelly things to mask their
scent, just like their ancestors used
to do. Others think dogs roll in smelly
things to ‘advertise’ what they have
found to other dogs.

Be a vet for the day!
Can you match the vet’s equipment, to the right body part?
Stethoscope
Bandage
Thermometer
Toothbrush
Flea medicine
Injection
Answers
Stethoscope – heart, Bandage – leg, Thermometer – bottom, Toothbrush – teeth, Flea medicine – mouth, Injection – shoulder blades

The cats of
World War Two
Cats were very important during the
Second World War (1939-1945), because
they used to catch mice and keep our food
stores safe. They were also good at letting
people know when enemy planes were
on the way, sometimes before the air raid
siren even went off.
There wasn’t much food during the war,
so cat owners had a hard time finding
food for their pets. They had to feed them
things like tinned salmon and offal. Some
owners even fed their cats bread soaked in
Marmite and milk!
When people were evacuated from their
homes, many had no choice but to leave
their pets behind. A charity called the
Cats Protection League asked cat owners
to attach name tags to their pet’s collar.
People were told to look out for any cats
that might have been left behind.
When war broke out, people started to
use cats as mousers. They gave them food
in return for a full day’s work catching
mice! Thousands of cats kept mice away
from food stores and people’s homes, and
thousands more worked in shops and on
ships and farms.
Some cats woke their owners during
house fires and scrambled over destroyed
buildings to alert rescuers. Many believed
their cat could tell the difference between
air raid warnings and the ‘all clear’. One
cat owner said that whenever the siren
wailed, his three cats would rush into
the cellar to take cover with the family.
When the all clear siren went off, the cats
climbed out again.

Waking up the pond
Lots of creatures come to life in spring, after a long winter sleep. You may be
able to spot some of them in your garden!
At this time of year, frogs, toads and newts are waking up and looking for
ponds. Without ponds, they have nowhere to breed and lay their eggs. But
ponds are disappearing – about a third have been lost in 50 years.
Facts:
• common toads have golden eyes and dry, warty skin
• toads crawl instead of hop
• toads puff up to scare away predators
• common frogs have long legs for leaping away quickly
• frogs can make their skin lighter or darker to match their surroundings
• frogs can breathe through their skin and lungs
• frogs catch insects with their long, sticky tongues.
Help the frog find a pond!
In spring, frogs come out of hibernation and look for a pond to breed in. Once they lay their
frogspawn, tadpoles will hatch a few weeks later.
Can you help the frog find his pond?

Make a mini pond
Garden ponds are very important for frogs.
Even a small pond in your garden could help
them to survive. Why not get an adult to
help you make your own mini pond?
You will need:
• a garden planter
• a plastic planter (without drainage holes) to put
inside the garden planter
• two to three pond plants in baskets (at least one of
these should be an oxygenator)
• pebbles/rocks
• water to fill the pond (from a
water butt if possible).
Making your pond:
1. Put the plastic planter inside the
garden planter
2. Put the pond plants inside,
leaving them in their baskets
3. Make sure wildlife can get into
your pond. Build a ‘ramp’ with
pebbles, stones and plants. Put
some inside the pond too, so
your visitors can get out again
4. Fill the pond with water
5. Look out for wild creatures
using your pond!
Creature spotting
Common frogs, toads and newts
are widespread in Britain.
When and where to spot them:
• Common frogs – February to
October. Frogs are most active
at night and can be seen around
ponds, in meadows, near lakes
and canals, and sometimes
in woodlands
• Common toads – April to October,
at night, in or near ponds
• Common newts – Spring and
summer, at night, in or
near ponds.
Make
your
own
frog
mask!
Get an adult
to cut around
the dotted
lines for you.
Maze solution:

Do you want to be a
veterinary
nurse?
Central College of Animal Studies provides a range of programmes for veterinary
nurse training.
With close links to veterinary practices, our courses combine learning with hands-on experience
in a professional environment, providing you with the skills and working knowledge required for a
successful career.
If you aspire to be a veterinary nurse, animal behaviourist or professional dog groomer talk to us
about the right course for you.
For more information and an application pack
T: 01359 243 405 or E: behaviour@ccoas.org.uk
www.ccoas.org.uk

Coming up in
the next issue...
Top tips
for holidays
with dogs
HOW TO SET UP A TORTOISE ENCLOSURE
LOOKING AFTER SMALL FURRIES IN A HEATWAVE
CHILDREN AND DOGS: THE KEY TO A SAFE RELATIONSHIP
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it includes games, facts, cute animal posters and much more
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Your
PetFocus
Letters, pictures, tweets and stories
We love seeing photos of
your pets loving life! Send
them to us via Twitter,
Facebook, or by emailing
editorial@petfocus.com
Mavis
Lester
F lossy Teacake
Poppy
c elebrating Healthy pets
We were excited to be guest
judges for the recent ‘Active Pets’
competition by the National
Office of Animal Health (NOAH).
The contest celebrated Britain’s
most energetic, healthy pets.
Lily, who was rescued from a
puppy farm, was crowned
the winner owing to her
athletic, spirited nature
and overall lust for life!
Teasel
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Working With Animals
A day in the life of...
A dog agility trainer.
Dog agility is one of the most popular and exhilarating canine
sports. To find out more, we took a look behind the scenes and
spoke to registered veterinary nurse Rachel Chisnall, who runs
the agility training classes at Ipswich Veterinary Centre in Suffolk.
Q
How long have you been an agility trainer?
A
I’ve been teaching now for four years and I love it. It’s a
great way to meet new people and share my knowledge
and experience.
Q
What made you choose this career?
A
I
wouldn’t say I pursued this career as I am a
registered veterinary nurse; agility was always
something I wanted to do after seeing it televised
on Crufts many years ago. It became my hobby once I had a dog
to start training with.
After starting at Ipswich Veterinary Centre I was asked if I would like
to teach agility. We sourced the equipment and started lessons at the
end of April 2016, and it has just grown and grown.
Rachel with her four-year-old cocker spaniel, Digger.
Q
Do you compete in agility yourself?
A
I’ve been doing dog agility for 12 years and competing
for eight years. I have four cocker spaniels at home, two
of which compete. My youngest is still a bit too young
at the moment but will start competing in the middle of next year –
I’m hoping she will be my star for the future.
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petfocus.com

What is agility?
Agility tests a dog’s ability to navigate a series of
different obstacles to a timer, while off lead, with
directions from their owner. Common challenges
include running through tunnels, jumping through
hoops and over hurdles, crossing a see-saw and
weaving through poles. The fastest and most accurate
dog wins.
Q
What is the best thing about teaching?
AThe best part is seeing people improve week to week.
For those who wish to compete, watching them get
their first clear round and rosette is a great feeling.
Working With Animals
Dog agility is a fantastic way of meeting new people, making friends
and creating a local network of people who share an interest. As well
as making human friends, I love getting to know all the different dogs
in my classes; it’s great to see their faces when they arrive and how
much fun they’re having during the lesson.
Q
What is an average day like for you?
A
A
typical day in the paddock at Ipswich Veterinary
Centre starts with setting up a course for that day,
using the equipment we have at the centre: a-frame,
dog walk, see-saw, jumps, tunnels, weaves.
I take private one-to-one lessons and assessments, followed by group
lessons. We hold a number of agility classes at Ipswich Veterinary
Centre; from beginners right through to competing dogs. We aim
to cater for all levels and abilities.
Q
Can all dog breeds take part in agility?
A
Essentially
yes, but they need to be fit and healthy. Some
breeds will excel at agility more than others, often due
to factors such as size, stamina and how agile they are.
For example, border collies are well known for being good at agility,
but really any breed of dog can have a go.
Q
What are the benefits for owners and dogs?
A
One
of the best benefits is building a better bond with
your dog; spending time with them and giving them
more mental stimulation, not just physical exercise.
We advise that dogs taking part in agility must be a minimum of a
year old, as most breeds will be fully developed by then. There isn’t
necessarily a maximum age. Each dog is a different case – some might
be happy and able to carry on until they are 12, whereas others may
retire at eight. It really just depends on each individual dog.
There is no age limit for humans either, but we advise people to be
sensible with pairings. For example, a great Dane might be too much
for a six-year-old handler. We suggest that child handlers are grown
up enough to know what they are doing, and to be able to handle
their dog and take instruction. A parental guardian with handlers aged
under 16 is often a good idea.
Q
What would you say to somebody considering agility?
A
I would encourage anyone to have a go. Some dogs
take to it like a duck to water whereas some others
need a little bit more motivation – but you don’t know
until you try. If you have any questions or want to discuss dog agility
further, then you can contact the practice and have a chat with myself
or one of my colleagues.
Find out more:
For information on the agility classes at Ipswich Veterinary Centre, call
01473 555 000, or email enquiries@ipswichvetcentre.co.uk.
Classes are held at various times on Wednesdays, Saturdays and
Sundays. Private one-to-one sessions are also available. The agility
paddock can be hired out but we do require that you have had some
experience of dog agility before so that you use the equipment safely
and properly.
facebook.com/petfocus twitter.com/petfocusonline 39

Cats
The healthy diet he needs,
the happy pet you love.
Just like us, our pets need a nutritious diet to help
them live life to the full. That's why our food is specially
formulated to keep your beloved pet fit and healthy.
• No artificial colours, flavours or preservatives
• Hypoallergenic and free from wheat gluten
• A healthy balance of minerals, vitamins and proteins
For more information on our range of nutritionally
balanced, premium pet foods visit www.petsmill.co.uk
40
petfocus.com

Tales from the vets
Buddy the Labrador’s CT story.
Case Study
CT scanning is a growing area of veterinary medicine, creating
new possibilities for the diagnosis and treatment of our pets.
Radiographer Stephanie Williams told us about one of her recent
cases, involving a dog suffering from lameness...
Buddy the Labrador came to Ipswich Veterinary Centre with ongoing
lameness in his left leg. Initially this lameness was intermittent, but his
owners felt it was gradually getting worse. When the vet examined Buddy
his leg was very sore and he was reluctant to put any weight on it. He did
not like it when the vet felt his elbow and tried to move it around.
Plan of action
The initial plan was to trial Buddy on a course of anti-inflammatory medication
and short lead exercise only, to see if his lameness would improve. After a
few weeks there was no improvement, so further investigation was advised.
Buddy’s owners were informed by the vet that he may have elbow dysplasia
and that the best way to diagnose this would be with a CT scan.
Elbow dysplasia is the term used for a number of developmental disorders
of the elbow, including fragmented coronoid process, osteochondritis
dissecans and ununited anconeal process. Dysplasia is usually described
as abnormal development and can be a genetic issue. It tends to affect larger
breed dogs, presenting as forelimb lameness or an unusual gait. Although
it is uncommon in small dogs, it is not unheard of.
The diagnosis
CT scans of both front legs were carried out for comparison and to assess
the affected leg. The scan showed a fragment of bone within the left elbow
joint, technically referred to as a fragmented coronoid process (FCP). The
right elbow and shoulders were normal. CT imaging is ideal for looking
at elbow joints as it provides a 3-dimensional image. It was advised that
if the chronic lameness continued then surgical fragment removal would
definitely be a consideration.
Treatment
Surgery was performed by an orthopaedic surgeon to remove the
fragment of bone. Although the surgery was challenging, with the help
of the CT images the surgeon knew exactly where to look. Once he
had recovered from the operation Buddy was discharged home. It was
important that he had lots of rest for two weeks and then exercise on
the lead could gradually be introduced to allow his elbow time to heal.
Recovery
Once recovered and back at home it was reported that Buddy was back
to his old self and doing exceptionally well, without any lameness.
When he came back to the vets for a post-operative appointment he
did not show any signs of pain or discomfort when the elbow was
examined. His owners were so pleased with the outcome and glad
that they went ahead with the scan and the surgery.
The arrow is the fragmented coronoid process as demonstrated on an axial slice CT image.
Arrow shows: Fragmented coronoid process shown on a 3D reconstructed image.
facebook.com/petfocus twitter.com/petfocusonline 41

Cats
Your golden oldie
Agile as a kitten,
nimble as a cat?
David Watson BVetMed MA MRCVS
We have all grown up with the idea that cats are poetry in
motion. They can leap and twist and turn with great speed
and land gracefully following a gymnastic session on the
sofa or up a tree. Economy of movement is their thing.
But what about when this elegance appears to wane? When climbing
doesn’t seem to be such fun any more and getting up takes a little
bit longer? And stretching seems a bit uncomfortable too. Just like
Grandpa and Grandma!
We accept that as we humans get older, we are likely to suffer from
joint pain and restricted movement that is usually caused by changes
to our joints called osteoarthritis. But cats? Until recently, arthritis was
not thought to be common in cats and that their slowing down simply
related to ‘old age’. This situation was compounded by the fact that
their survival instinct is to hide signs of pain.
However, studies have shown that two thirds of cats over 12 years of
age have evidence of degenerative disease of the limb joints – this
figure climbing to nine out of 10 if we include ‘spondylosis’ of the joints
in the spine.
Osteoarthritis can be ‘primary’ where the disease may arise as part
of normal ‘wear and tear’ in the joints; or secondary to a joint injury
or genetic abnormality, such as hip dysplasia. The signs will be made
worse if the cat is overweight or obese.
Signs of arthritis in cats
Less mobile:
• hesitancy or refusal to jump up or down
• jumping up or down less frequently and only on to lower surfaces
• difficulty going up or down stairs, using the litter tray or the cat flap
• stiffness in the legs, especially after sleeping or resting
• discomfort when stretching.
Reduced activity:
• increased time spent resting or sleeping – and choosing easier to
access places
• loss of interest in hunting or exploring outdoors
• reduced interaction and playing less with people or other animals
• overgrown claws.
Altered grooming pattern:
• reduced frequency resulting in a matted or scruffy coat
• sometimes ‘overgrooming/licking’ of painful joints.
Mood changes:
• avoiding interaction with people and/or animals
• more ‘irritable’ or ‘grumpy’ when handled, stroked or in contact
with other animals
• spending more time alone.
What to do
If you suspect your cat is developing arthritis, International Cat
Care have a useful ‘mobility check list’ which you can download:
http://icatcare.org/sites/default/files/kcfinder/images/mobility_
check-list.pdf
With this in hand, visit your veterinary practice for a proper diagnosis,
maybe using x-rays. Your vet will be able to provide suitable
veterinary anti-inflammatory medicines and nutritional advice. Don’t
ever be tempted to give your cat any human pain-relieving drugs as
these may have severe negative consequences.
Making life more comfortable
You can make a big difference to the quality of your arthritic
cat’s life by:
• supplying a soft, comfortable bed placed in easily accessible,
quiet, draft-free locations – ‘igloo beds’ are ideal
• building a series of ‘steps’ or a ramp to allow him to access
favoured higher sites – the sofa or windowsill, for example
• ensuring the cat flap is easy to open
• always having an indoor litter tray that has at least one low
side for easy access
• making sure food and water are easily accessible, in bowls
slightly raised above floor level
• spending extra time grooming and cleaning him
• making sure his claws are kept trimmed
• ensuring his diet contains plenty of essential fatty acids
(EFAs) and glycosaminoglycans, such as glucosamine and
chondroitin, and that you watch his calorie intake!
42
petfocus.com

The safest way home
Charity
For a complete lost and found service ensure your pet is
registered with the National Veterinary Database
Ask your veterinary practice for more
information about microchipping and
pet reunification
facebook.com/petfocus twitter.com/petfocusonline 43

Cats
A match made
in heaven?
How to avoid an unhappy union.
Francesca Riccomini BSc(Hons) BVetMed CCAB MRCVS DipAS(CABC)
Confronted with an appealing and needy bundle of feline fur any
cat lover is likely to feel a tug on their heartstrings. But no matter
how delightful, deserving or desperate a cat might be, it is in
everyone’s interests to avoid rash, spur-of-the-moment offers to take him
home. Fortunately many snap decisions made under such circumstances
lead to long, happy relationships but far too often when cats are adopted
without careful consideration, Lady Luck simply turns the other way.
People may be disappointed; the cats can suffer. And many perfectly
nice pets end up looking for another placement just because they didn’t
live up to expectations, or their behaviour caused problems that – with
a little thought – might have been predicted. Sometimes the alternative
is to soldier on with neither cat nor owner getting as much out of the
relationship as they might have. Though of course, there is always the
other risk that thinking too hard for too long makes any decision to give
a cat a home seem overwhelmingly daunting. Then nobody wins!
By taking a moment to weigh up all the important issues that surround
‘the cat owning experience’, we can generally avoid making many
common mistakes. And the really essential first step is to work
systematically through a checklist, perhaps even enlisting professional
help, particularly if there are already other pets in the household. Get
things right now and you will establish a sound base for a rewarding
future relationship with any deserving cat.
“...the cat-owner
relationship is very
much a two-way
dynamic...”
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petfocus.com

The emotional and human dimension
It is all too easy when emotions are engaged to think exclusively
about the cat, his background, needs and future prospects or lack of
them. Kind people are always at risk of putting an animal’s interests
before their own. But the cat-owner relationship is very much a twoway
dynamic and, consciously or not, even the most dedicated feline
lover seeks something from the pets with which they live. Therefore,
what potential adopters want should be considered carefully before
any cat comes into their home. After all, feline characters differ and
just as some human relationships can prove disappointing, so too can
some between cats and people.
Cats
For example, when someone delights in the close companionship
of a confirmed lap cat, there will be little satisfaction in co-habiting
with a ‘see you when I see you’ hunter that only turns up occasionally
for a quick meal before going off again. In these circumstances, a
sociable, home-loving cat that enjoys hanging out with humans and
taking part in their activities is going to make a better and much
more rewarding pet.
Practicalities matter
The financial implications of keeping a pet well fed and healthy
evidently come into focus here, as do space requirements, time
expended on routine care and the necessity of catering for holidays.
Such issues can be dealt with quickly but when they’re overlooked,
tensions and resentments all too easily creep into the picture and start
to erode a pet-owner relationship.
Potential behavioural stumbling blocks
One of the most important challenges facing any cat entering a
new household is the need to cope with and fit into the physical
environment in which he finds himself. Some homes and localities
are ‘cat friendly’, others less so, and sadly some people are not terribly
good at recognising when they are expecting too much of a new pet.
Not only that, he will also have to live comfortably alongside those
who surround and interact with him, whether they have two or four
legs, feathers or scales. The temperament of the new arrival and his
early socialisation experiences (or lack of), plus future pet management
regimes, very much influence outcomes in this respect.
Similarly, kittens are fun, inquisitive and full of energy. They can be
exhausting and their natural behaviour may well place them on
a collision course with anyone who greatly values their curtains or
precious ornaments. This highlights the significance of age – both
of cats and prospective owners – which is another thing to examine
before you embark upon a life together. Significant problems can
develop with youngsters, especially when people are older, less nimble
and more easily tired, or have grown accustomed to quietly pottering
with a tranquil, aged feline and suffer an unanticipated and unwelcome
‘culture shock’.
There’s never a guarantee but…
Sometimes, of course, facing harsh realities and making tough choices
can be very hard. However, putting right mistakes that cause problems
and undermine the quality of the owner-pet bond can be much harder,
not infrequently impossible and invariably deeply distressing.
Consequently, at the outset when offering any cat a home, it is wise,
responsible and kind to be as realistic and sensible as possible. And
when people put time, effort and thought into making an appropriate
choice of cat for their circumstances before they open their doors and
their hearts, all things being equal, they should be set to enjoy many
happy and rewarding years together – and by anyone’s standards that’s
a result!
When individuals do not gel with each other, the inter-pet pressures
that result in aggression and other behaviour problems – particularly
in multi-cat households – are frequently frustrating and upsetting for
the people involved. And nothing undermines the pleasure of owning
pets more readily than living in a perpetual war zone!
Therefore, for any human-cat relationship to succeed prospective
owners must understand basic feline behavioural requirements
and all the factors that influence an individual cat’s world view. If
everyone is going to be able to enjoy living together, owners must
be sensitive, prepared to compromise and, above all, realistic in their
expectations of the animals and people involved. Getting this right is
an absolute essential, which sadly sometimes means saying ‘no’ when
an enchanting, available cat enters the picture.
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Cats
Carried away
Tips for stress-free transportation.
Clara Ashcroft
If your cat hates his carrier, you’ll probably know all too well how
stressful a visit to the vets can be. But it doesn’t have to be that way.
With a little patience and some tasty treats, you can soon train your
cat to sit peacefully in his carrier.
Our simple
step-by-step guide:
1
First, make sure you have a suitable carrier. It should be easy to
clean (preferably plastic) and not so big that your cat can slide
around in it. A top-opening carrier will be easier for you and less
stressful for your cat.
2
Start training your cat to use the carrier with the top half removed.
Leave it out so your cat can investigate and wander in and out
at his leisure. That way, he will not associate it simply with a trip
to the vets.
5
When your cat is not sitting in the carrier, put the top half back
on. If he is hesitant about going inside, repeat steps three to four.
Remember to take training slowly and reward each movement (head
in, head and paws in, etc) until your cat fully enters the carrier.
6
When your cat can spend three to five minutes in the carrier, get
him used to the door being closed. Give him a treat, close the
door slightly, then re-open and give a treat again. Repeat until
you can fully close the door.
7
Train your cat to remain in the carrier for a desired length of time.
For example, if it takes 20 minutes to drive to your local practice,
leave him in the carrier for 20 minutes. Always let him out if he
starts to show signs of distress; this will teach him he is fully in control
and that being in the carrier is not something to worry about.
8
During the journey, cover the carrier with a cloth or towel to
keep your cat calm. The carrier should be secured in a footwell
or placed on the back seat with a seatbelt.
3
Place some familiar bedding close to the carrier. Give your cat
a treat for sitting on the bedding in a relaxed manner; he will
soon develop a positive connection between the bedding and
the reward.
4
Over time, move your cat’s blanket closer to his carrier. Work
towards a situation where your cat will relax on his blanket in
the carrier with the top removed.
Pushed for time?
In an emergency, you won’t have time to train your cat to enter
his carrier voluntarily. However, there are a few actions you
can take to minimise difficulties. If the carrier opens from the
top, wrap your cat in a blanket and lower him into the carrier.
If the carrier opens from the front, wrap your cat in a blanket
and gently place him into the carrier tail-first. You may need
somebody to hold the carrier for you to keep it stable.
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Charity
The forgotten
workforce
Saving working equines
and their owners.
Clara Ashcroft
Did you know there are an estimated 100 million horses, donkeys
and mules working around the world? Working equines are
vital to the economy for many developing countries, providing
transportation and assisting with labour. Some also work in the tourist
trade, pulling carts and carrying visitors across difficult terrain.
Sadly a huge percentage of working equines live in terrible conditions
and are required to carry or pull loads that are far too heavy in relation
to their size. Their working days are long, water is sparse and they
seldom have shade from the sun. The animals also have little access
to veterinary care and suffer from conditions like lameness, colic
and exhaustion.
The beginning of Brooke
Established in 1934, the Brooke charity works to protect and improve
the lives of working equines and their owners in the developing world.
Brooke would not exist today were it not for the tireless efforts of
Dorothy Brooke, who in 1930 accompanied her husband on a trip
to Cairo, Egypt. It was there that she found hundreds of tired and
emaciated horses, donkeys and mules in desperate need of help. The
animals were all surviving ex-warhorses, sold to a life of hardship after
the end of World War One.
Appalled at what she had discovered, Dorothy penned a letter to The
Morning Post (now The Daily Telegraph) calling for contributions to
help ‘give a merciful end to our old war heroes’. The British public was
so moved by Dorothy’s account that they sent her the equivalent of
£20,000 in today’s money. Dorothy used the funds to buy 5,000 of the
horses. Although most had to be put to sleep, they were able to end
their lives in peace.
In 1934, with thousands of equines still in need of help, Dorothy
founded The Old War Horse Memorial Hospital in Cairo. When it
opened the hospital promised free veterinary care to all the city’s
working horses and donkeys. It was later renamed ‘The Brooke
Hospital for Animals’.
Since then Brooke has helped to improve the lives of millions of
working equines and their owners across the world. With offices in
Asia, Africa, Latin America and the Middle East, the charity reaches
more people and their animals in the developing world than any
other organisation.
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Image © Brooke/Freya Dawson

The strategy
Brooke employs around 900 staff across the globe, including animal
welfare experts, development specialists and vets. By working with owners,
communities and policy makers, the charity aims to relieve the immediate
suffering of working equines and create long-lasting change.
Charity
They achieve this in three ways:
Communities: providing local people with essential skills and support
to look after their animals.
Services: strengthening the skills of local farriers so owners can seek
help when they need it.
Advocacy: working with government and organisations like the UN
to provide support and prevent abuse.
Responsible tourism
Lots of holidaymakers use donkeys, mules and horses to transport
luggage and trek across difficult terrain. However, as a result of this
‘holiday experience’ the animals suffer dehydration, heat stress,
beatings and wounds – all while their owners struggle to make
ends meet.
Brooke works hard to promote responsible tourism and in 2010, it
launched the Happy Horses Holiday Code to help caring travellers make
responsible choices. The 10 step guide – which is designed to help both
the animal and its owner – includes matching the size of the passenger
to that of the animal, paying a fair price to the keeper, and avoiding
the use of animals with sores and wounds. Brooke urges anyone who
sees an animal being seriously mistreated to make a formal complaint
to their tour operator, tourist police or the local authorities.
How can you support Brooke?
If you would like to support Brooke’s work, here are a few ways to
get involved:
• make a donation
• fundraise
• leave a gift in your will.
Find out more
thebrooke.org
The Njoro Community
Environment Group
Since 2013, Brooke East Africa has been working to
support a community group in the town of Njoro,
Kenya. The group is made up of of 21 men, who all
own and rely on their donkeys to provide a living for
themselves and their families.
Every month the Njoro group meets to discuss affairs
and hold training sessions. Supported by Farming
Systems Kenya, a Brooke East Africa partner, the
group has already learnt how to handle, feed and
water donkeys correctly, dispose of their carcases
and give vaccinations.
Commenting on the project, Brooke East Africa’s
community engagement officer, Neema Kawe said:
“At Brooke, we ensure local service providers and
policy makers know that an animal’s welfare matters,
regardless of the function they serve. They are animal
workers, not machines, and as such have limitations
and needs to be met.
“We work to strengthen systems through training,
mentoring, quality monitoring and linking up to
reliable local suppliers of medicines and equipment. It
is also vital that owners know when to seek professional
help and which people will provide the best quality
care for their animals.”
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Small Furries
You are what you eat
The dos and don’ts of rabbit food.
Claire Speight RVN C&GCertVNES A1 assessor
Never has the saying ‘you are what you eat’ been more apt than
when feeding rabbits. Getting their diet right can go a long way
to preventing many common health problems.
Rabbits are ‘hind-gut fermenters’ – so they rely heavily upon bacteria
for digestion and anything that upsets this fine balance can cause
problems. Rabbits need a high fibre, abrasive diet which ‘drives’ their
gastrointestinal tract, helps to keep their teeth in tip top condition
and stops them becoming overweight.
Do feed
Hay
While it may be wholly unappealing to us, hay is the single most important
factor in a rabbit’s diet. This can never be emphasised enough.
It comes in many varieties, including Timothy, oat and alfalfa, all
of which have different nutritional compositions and benefits. For
adult rabbits, alfalfa is too high in calcium and owners should stick
to grass based hays such as Timothy. Some rabbits have distinct hay
preferences, so it is worth trying a variety and feeding several different
types. Hay should be fed ad-lib and should make up the bulk of a
rabbit’s diet (at least 80 per cent). Fresh hay should be offered at least
once daily and can be incorporated into toys to encourage playing
and increasing the rabbit’s hay intake.
Grass
If you have access to a garden, grass should also form an important part of
your rabbit’s diet. Rabbits like to graze and should have access to a large
and secure area to do so. If this is not possible then picking large handfuls
of grass a couple of times a day will be greatly appreciated by most rabbits.
You should never feed lawn mower clippings as these quickly ferment and
can cause serious and fatal digestive problems.
Weeds
Wild rabbits eat a variety of weeds and many of these grow in gardens.
They can make an excellent free addition to your rabbit’s diet. Common
weeds that are safe for rabbits to eat include clover, plantain, dandelion,
thistle, chickweed, nettles, blackberry/bramble leaves, and shepherd’s
purse, to name a few. If you are ever in doubt about the identification of
a plant it is always best to avoid feeding it. Always avoid picking weeds
from areas that have been treated with pesticides or fouled by animals.
Dried food selection
There is a vast array of rabbit diets on the market. Muesli-based diets
should be avoided since they encourage selective feeding and have
been linked to dental problems in rabbits.
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Don’t feed
Bulbs
Anything that grows from a bulb is generally poisonous and should
be avoided.
Small Furries
Human food
Avoid at all costs. Most rabbits, particularly house rabbits, will happily
beg for human food and owners often give in to them, but it offers little
or no nutritional benefit, contributes to weight gain and if a rabbit is
eating these, they are unlikely to eat enough hay and grass, which is
vital to their diet.
Pellet or nugget-based diets, where the component of the diet is the
same throughout, offer a much more balanced diet for rabbits; however
it is important to ensure you select a diet high in fibre. Diets above 20
per cent fibre are good and those over 25 per cent are better.
Rabbits need very little in the way of dried food each day – in general,
only about one tablespoon of pellets per kilogram of bodyweight.
Many pet rabbits are overweight and this is often down to overfeeding
of dried food.
Rabbits should spend no more than 30 minutes each day eating pellets,
which should make up no more than five per cent of their daily food
intake. Scatter feeding and burying pellets in the hay will encourage
natural foraging behaviour, which will not only ensure it takes longer
for the rabbit to eat their pellet allowance, but will also encourage
activity and help to keep them mentally active.
It is important never to suddenly change a rabbit’s diet, since this can
cause serious digestive disturbances. If you are changing your rabbit’s
diet from one dried food to another, this needs to be done slowly
over a minimum of 10 to 14 days. Slowly increase the amount of the
new dried food, whilst decreasing the older dried food until you have
switched the diet over.
Water
Fresh water must always be readily available and should be changed
at least once a day. Most rabbits prefer to drink from a water bowl, but
it is important to ensure that the water isn’t becoming soiled and can’t
be tipped over. A water bottle can also be offered and care needs to
be taken in winter to make sure the water isn’t freezing.
Vegetables (no Bugs Bunny!)
A selection of vegetables should be fed each day. Rabbits enjoy
greens, broccoli, cauliflower (including the leaves), celery, carrot tops
and spinach to name a few. Contrary to popular belief and cartoon
characters, carrots are a poor food choice for rabbits since they are
high in sugar and should only be fed in small portions as an occasional
treat. Bugs Bunny has much to answer for! Fruits are also high in sugar
and have little nutritional benefit, so should also only be fed as treats.
Herbs such as parsley, coriander, basil and mint are often firm favourites
with many rabbits.
Peanuts and raisins
Both can pose a choking hazard and peanuts have been known to
cause fatal blockages in rabbits’ digestive systems. For this reason
these should both be avoided.
Lettuce
This is a poor food choice in rabbits; it offers no nutritional benefit and
can cause serious digestive disturbances.
Carrots and fruits
As well as being high in sugar, these can cause digestive disturbances
and weight gain (should only be fed occasionally as a treat).
Potato and potato peelings
These are high in starch and not suitable for rabbits.
Muesli-based diets
These encourage selective feeding and have been linked to
dental disease.
Alfalfa hay
Should be avoided in adult rabbits due to the high calcium content.
Round-up
• feed your rabbit a diet high in fibre, with the bulk of the
rabbit’s diet being made up of good quality hay and grass
• offer a small amount of a high fibre pellet and encourage
natural foraging behaviour
• a selection of fresh vegetables can be offered each day
• avoid sugary foods such as carrots, fruits and all human food
• pick weeds that you can identify and only from areas not
contaminated by animals or pesticide
• make changes to the diet slowly.
As a general guide, a handful of fresh food per kg of bodyweight
should be fed each day. Be careful when introducing new foods and,
as always, this should be done gradually by increasing the amount
fed each day.
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Exotics
Keeping aquatic turtles
General advice and things to consider.
Tom Dutton BVM&S MRCVS CertAVP(ZooMed)
In the right hands, aquatic turtles can make excellent reptile pets, but
in my opinion, they are among the most challenging reptile species
to maintain in captivity. Husbandry that provides optimal welfare can
be costly, time consuming and require a lot of space (in some cases
both indoors and outdoors).
The most commonly kept species in the UK include sliders (Trachemys
spp), mud and musk turtles (Sternotherus spp) – my personal favourite –
and map turtles (Graptemys spp). Recently introduced invasive species
legislation may have an effect on the keeping of sliders in the UK.
Housing matters
The size and style of housing will depend on the species being kept.
Musk turtles are generally poor swimmers, requiring shallower
aquaria and easily accessible land area. Map turtles on the other hand,
are excellent swimmers and benefit from a greater water volume
and depth.
Construction of enclosures can include glass aquaria, plastic ‘turtle
tubs’ and outdoor ponds (concrete, plastic, pond liners etc). Outdoor
enclosures are only appropriate for a few species in the UK and their
use will generally be restricted to the summer months, unless elaborate
lighting and heating is utilised.
The position of aquaria in the house is an oft-neglected but important
factor. Water temperatures can quickly rise to dangerous levels if
aquaria are in direct sunlight. Aquaria are very heavy when full of water
and should be situated on a solid surface, fully supported.
Water quality
Fish keepers are generally very experienced at maintaining clean and
safe water for their pets, whereas reptile keepers may be less familiar
with the various filters, pumps and cleaning regimes that can be utilised
to maintain optimum water quality.
Poor water quality can quickly prove fatal for turtles, with shell
infections often the first problem encountered. Turtles produce far
more faecal and urine waste than fish and therefore more powerful
and effective filtration will be required.
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While full water changes can be used to maintain clean water, most
keepers will opt to combine part water changes with a filtration
system. Sudden changes in water temperature can be deleterious
for turtles and should be avoided when performing water changes. A
thermometer should always be in place. For large set-ups, submersible
pumps can be invaluable in performing trouble-free changes in water
volume. Siphoning water is an alternative.
Exotics
When used filters are either of the biological or chemical type, filtration
will not eliminate the need to perform water changes – but it will
significantly decrease the frequency. A further advantage is that the
majority of these water changes will only be partial, which helps with
keeping environmental conditions more stable.
Substrates and more elaborate cage designs can be used with more
convenience if the frequency of total water change is reduced. Canister
filters are the most commonly used by my clients but other options
are available. Ozone filtration and UV sterilisation of water can be used
but are cost prohibitive in many cases.
The pH of water is generally maintained neutral for most commonly
kept species, but a knowledge of natural husbandry is important as
some species require a more acidic pH (such as the popular snakenecked
turtle, Hydromedus spp).
Getting the heating right
A combination of overhead basking lights and submersible aquarium
heaters (thermostatically controlled) are used in most situations.
Mercury vapour bulbs providing both UV and heat are useful as over
aquarium heaters.
Electrical fixtures must be protected from ingress of water – electricity
and water do not mix well! Aquarium-specific, splash-proof lamps
and fittings are available. The optimum ambient air and water
temperatures will depend on the individual species being kept, but
most commonly range from 24-28ºC (75.2-82.4ºF) with a warmer
basking area being provided.
The basking area
Basking is essential to allow turtles to thermo-regulate and maintain
their core body temperature, within their preferred optimum
temperature zone. This is important in maintaining an effective
immune system, food digestion and other metabolic processes.
To allow the turtle to dry-off and bask, an easily-accessible dry area
should be available below the basking lights discussed above. Basking
sites may be floating material in the water (cork bark, plastic, driftwood)
or solid stones, platforms and raised substrate areas.
Dietary needs
Different species of turtle have different feeding requirements – so only
a general guide is provided below. It is very easy to overfeed turtles,
leading to obesity and a negative impact on water quality. Hatchling
and young individuals are commonly fed daily but adults are most
often fed once to three times a week.
Whole carcass food items (fish, rodents, worms, shrimp, molluscs) make
up the majority of the diet for most species. In omnivorous species,
increasing amounts of dark leafy greens should be fed as they mature.
Duckweed and small amounts of fruit can also be included in the diet.
The majority of commercially available feeder insects are calcium
deficient with inverted calcium:phosphorus ratio and require gutloading,
or potentially supplementing, before being fed. As most
species feed in the water, gut-loading is much more effective than
surface vitamin powders, which are quickly washed off.
In general if a wide range of foods are fed as part of a balanced diet,
vitamin supplementation isn’t required. Commercially produced
‘complete’ pelleted diets are available but vary in quality. The nutritional
requirements of many species haven’t been determined and many diets
are formed from observation of wild individuals and extrapolation from
the limited published data.
Think carefully...
Turtles can make very rewarding pets but they have very specific
requirements that must be met in order to keep them successfully
in captivity.
Prospective owners must think carefully before embarking on turtle
ownership. Some species grow very large and in general they are longlived,
requiring long-term commitment to their care. Aquatic turtles
are some of the most common reptiles presented to rescue centres,
with many centres at capacity and not accepting any new cases.
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53

Equine
Safety first
Top tips for on the
ground and in the saddle.
Marie Rippingale BSc(Hons) REVN clinical coach G-SQP DipHE CVN DipAVN(Equine)
Safety requires both common sense and an understanding of horses.
Horse riding is a high-risk activity, but handling horses from the
ground can be just as dangerous for the inexperienced. Whether
a beginner or an experienced horse keeper, safety awareness is vital
on the ground and in the saddle to reduce the risk of significant injury.
Personal protective equipment
Always wear a riding hat when you are working near horses – accidents
do not just happen in the saddle. Always wear sturdy boots or steel toecapped
boots to protect your feet in case you get stepped on. Rope
burn can be incredibly painful and happen at any time, so always wear
gloves when leading or riding horses.
Body protectors and air jackets (Figure 1) can be worn to provide extra
protection in case of a fall. Air jackets are attached to the saddle by a
lanyard. In the event of a fall, the lanyard pulls out of the jacket, which
causes the release of CO2 from a pressurised canister. This inflates the
jacket before the rider hits the floor, cushioning the impact.
Make sure that your equipment is safe and up to the job. Check your
tack, head collars and lead ropes for signs of wear and replace them
when required.
Figure 1: For extra protection in case of a fall, body protectors and air jackets
can be worn.
Handle your horse correctly
Horses are prey animals and can cause injuries when frightened. To
avoid this, there are some specific points to consider:
• the horse has several blind spots from different angles. Always
speak to your horse when approaching him or working near
him. That way, he will know you are there even if he cannot see
you well
• because of these blind spots, be sure to never approach your
horse directly from the front or rear. Always approach him by his
shoulder or to the side. Never stand directly in front of or directly
behind a horse, even when you are brushing his tail or forelock,
because he may not be able to see you well
• whenever you are near a horse, always make sure he knows where
you are by speaking to him or keeping a hand on his body as you
move around him. When you walk around a horse, always walk far
enough away that you are not in his kicking range (at least 12ft)
• if you do not know the horse you are handling very well,
always work on the left side when you are tacking up, leading
and mounting. This is because many horses have only been
accustomed to being worked with on their left side
• if the horse is unfamiliar to you, do not make sudden movements
or sudden loud noises around him. Some horses will become
startled from sudden actions or noises and a startled horse is
more likely to cause you injury
• always let a horse know what you intend to do. For example,
when picking up his feet, do not grab the foot hurriedly. Instead,
run your hand down starting at his shoulder and down to his
pastern, and the horse should pick up his foot for you.
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Equine
“A horse’s behaviour
should never be
taken for granted...”
Use equipment correctly
Injury can also result from improper use of equipment:
• never wrap any equipment that is attached to the horse around
any part of your body. This includes lead ropes, reins, lunge lines
and all other equipment
• never walk under or step over a tied lead rope. Doing this can result
in severe injury to you should the horse become startled
• always tie horses directly to baling twine as this will snap if the horse
panics, releasing the horse without causing any injury
• always tie horses up using a quick release knot as this will allow them
to be released quickly in the event of an emergency.
Understand horse behaviour
A horse’s behaviour should never be taken for granted; even the oldest
and quietest horse can behave unpredictably at times.
When working with or around horses, the following should be remembered:
• be confident – a horse takes confidence from a confident handler
• set fair and realistic ground rules and stick to them consistently
• be alert and plan ahead – consider how your horse is likely to react
and take positive action before he becomes alarmed
• seek help and guidance – there is always something new to learn
about horses, so do not struggle alone
• think ‘prevention’ – complacency causes accidents so don’t take
unnecessary risks
• be insured – public liability insurance is essential for all horse
owners, keepers or riders for claims that may be made against them
in the event of an accident.
Safety when riding
Horse riding is a risky sport. The following points should be considered:
• always wear a riding hat that complies with the most up-to-date
safety standard
• hats should be checked and potentially replaced after a fall
• always ride in appropriate footwear; either long riding boots or
boots and chaps. Wear gloves to protect your hands
• do not ‘over horse’ yourself – riding a horse above your skill level
can increase the risk of injury for both of you
• ride in an appropriate environment, e.g. an enclosed menage,
and always make sure there is someone around in case an
accident occurs
• on the road, riders should be observant and acknowledge careful
drivers. Both hands should be kept on the reins, except when
signalling changes of direction. Riders should leave at the yard
details of their planned route and the time at which they expect
to return
• it is advisable to wear fluorescent and reflective gear at all times
when riding on roads – this is essential in poor weather. Riding
in poor visibility (heavy rain, fog or at dawn and dusk) should
be avoided.
Riding and working with or around horses can be a wonderful
experience. However, horses can also be extremely dangerous. Any
prospective horse owner, rider or handler should ensure that they
take the necessary steps to avoid causing injury to themselves, their
horses or other people.
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Wildlife
An icon under threat
Troubled times
for Australia’s koalas.
Sarah Kidby
One of Australia’s most iconic and culturally important species,
the koala is endearing to wildlife lovers all over the world. Yet
it is classed as ‘vulnerable’ and populations are dwindling as a
result of numerous threats, namely habitat loss and vehicle collisions.
Forest life
Koalas are residents of the eucalyptus forests in mainland eastern
Australia and some islands off the southern and eastern coasts. Although
they are largely solitary animals, their home ranges often overlap.
Among their adaptations to forest living are the sharp claws and
opposable digits (similar to our thumb and fingers). Out of five digits
on each front paw, two are opposed to the others which helps them
to hold branches and grip their food. The second and third digits on
the hind paws are fused together to form a handy ‘comb’ which is used
for grooming and removing ticks.
Koalas are also excellent swimmers – able to cross rivers to escape
floods – and their large nose gives them a highly developed sense of
smell. In mature males, you can see a dark scent gland in the centre
of their white chests. It exudes a dark, sticky substance that is rubbed
on trees to mark territory.
Koala profile
• Species type: marsupial
• Scientific name: Phascolarctos cinereus, meaning
‘ash-coloured pouched bear’
• Weight: 4-14kg (depending on gender and location)
• Life span: 10-20 years in the wild
• Lives in: eucalyptus forests in eastern and
southeastern Australia
• Conservation status: vulnerable.
Colour variations can be seen in different locations, for example koalas
in southern Australia are larger and have darker, thicker fur than those
in the north – which are a pale grey. It is thought this adaptation helps
to keep them warm during cold southern winters.
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Facts and figures
• the koala gets its name from an Aboriginal word meaning
‘no drink’, as they get 90 per cent of their hydration from
eucalyptus leaves
• koalas smell strongly of eucalyptus oil – similar to cough
drops – as they consume so many of the leaves
• with big fluffy ears, a prominent snout and teddy bear
looks, it is perhaps not hard to see why koalas are so often
called ‘koala bears’. But in fact they are marsupials, most
closely related to the wombat
• the species is estimated to boost the Australian economy
by $1.1-$2.5 billion a year in tourism
• an extra pair of vocal folds located outside of the voice box
explains why the pitch of a male koala’s mating call is 20
times lower than it should be, given the animal’s small size
• the UK’s first ever koala joey was born at Edinburgh Zoo
in 2014. Keepers named him ‘Yooranah’ – an indigenous
Australian word meaning ‘loving’.
Leaf eaters
Koalas put away a lot of food considering their small size –
between 0.5kg and 1kg of eucalyptus leaves every night – but
they are picky eaters, selecting only a few species of eucalyptus
tree. As a result, they are restricted to a specialised habitat of
which over 80 per cent has been destroyed. Koalas are one of the
only mammals to survive on this diet, along with greater gliders
and ringtail possums.
Eucalyptus leaves are not only tough but also contain potentially
toxic oils. In order to digest them, koalas are equipped with a very
long digestive organ – measuring two metres in length – that is
packed with microorganisms able to break down and detoxify the
leaves. Their diet is nutritionally poor and only 25 per cent of fibre is
absorbed – hence the need to eat so many leaves.
Strange sounds
A male koala’s mating call is around 20 times lower than would
usually be expected for an animal of its small size. Scientists from
the University of Sussex discovered that koalas possess an extra pair
of vocal folds located outside the voice box, which allows them to
produce exceptionally low-pitched calls that are more typical of an
elephant-sized animal.
The koala’s ‘bellow’ is a series of sounds similar to a donkey’s braying;
on inhalation it sounds a little like snoring, while the exhale is akin to
a belch. Koalas are the only known land mammal to have a soundproducing
organ outside of the voice box.
Sleepy species
Often pictured napping or reclining in trees, koalas have earned themselves
a reputation as one of the laziest animals. They sleep for up to 18 hours a
day to conserve energy, as their diet provides poor nutrition and requires
lots of energy to digest.
Joeys
Typically female koalas give birth to a single baby, or joey, each year. Born
blind, hairless and without developed ears, a newborn joey is no bigger
than a broad bean, but his natural instincts and strong sense of touch and
smell allows him to find his own way to his mother’s pouch.
After spending around six months in the pouch, the joey emerges and
clings to the mother’s back or belly during the day, before returning to
the pouch at night. Offspring do not leave the parent’s home range until
one to three years of age.
Declining numbers
Despite their importance in Australian culture and tourism, the koala is classed
as ‘vulnerable’ on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. The population
crashed from millions to just a few hundred thousand as a result of hunting
for their fur in the early part of the twentieth century. The population decline
over the past 18 to 24 years is estimated at just under 30 per cent.
The species is now thought to number between 100,000 and 500,000
adult individuals, according to IUCN, but the Australian Koala Foundation
(AKF) says there is likely to be less than 80,000. They face the rising threat of
habitat loss due to land clearing. A recent report suggests 84,000 hectares
of critical koala habitat has been lost in Queensland over the past two years
(AKF & WWF Australia). A further 2.2 million hectares could be bulldozed in
New South Wales if proposals to change land clearing controls go ahead,
according to research commissioned by WWF Australia.
Conservationists are urging Australian state governments to protect koala
habitats, warning of dire consequences for the species if their habitats
continue to be destroyed and fragmented by land clearance. Koalas are
also facing other threats such as predation by dogs, vehicle collisions,
disease, bush fires and drought.
Wildlife
A bid to save the species
Recent research in south-east Queensland found koalas were learning to use ledges and
tunnels to help them cross roads safely. Increasing urbanisation is believed to be the main
reason for declining koala populations, with vehicle collisions identified as a key threat.
Existing structures such as water culverts and bridge underpasses were retrofitted to give
koalas a safe passage underneath the roads. Researchers from Griffith University used a
range of technology – including camera traps and GPS collars – to find out if the loveable
marsupials were making use of the passages. To their surprise, they found koalas learned to
use them in just three weeks.
facebook.com/petfocus twitter.com/petfocusonline 57

DIY Project
Fancy a bit
of a puzzle?
Simple cat toys
you can make at home.
Clara Ashcroft
Food puzzles are proven to reduce signs of stress in cats and can
contribute to weight loss. In a recent study, published in the
Journal of Feline Medicine and Surgery one obese cat lost 20 per
cent of his bodyweight in just 12 months of being given food puzzles
to play with.
Researchers say cats are likely to have individual preferences for certain
types of food puzzles and the ways in which they interact with them.
Some prefer puzzles that can pushed or rolled, while others prefer
using stationary puzzles. The trick is to have several different types
of puzzle available which can be adapted to increase the level of
challenge for your cat.
Bottle feeder
You will need:
• one plastic water bottle with lid (500ml size)
• utility knife
• healthy treats or kibble
Activity board
You will need:
• one large rectangular piece of cardboard
• a mixture of toilet rolls, kitchen rolls and clean yogurt pots
• non-toxic glue
• healthy treats or kibble
1
Cut your toilet rolls and kitchen rolls into smaller tubes.
2
Using non-toxic glue, stick the tubes and pots at random onto
the piece of card. Paste some rolls on their side to make ‘tunnels’.
3
Once the glue is dry, fill each pot or tube with kibble and let the
fun commence!
1
Make sure your bottle is clean and remove the label.
2
Using a utility knife, cut several holes in the bottle that are big
enough for kibble to pass through.
3
Pour some kibble or treats into the bottle, screw on the cap and
let your cat go wild!
4
Try making several bottle feeders with different sized holes to
give your cat varying levels of challenge.
Did you know?
Food puzzles were originally developed to provide
enrichment for captive zoo and laboratory animals. They
take advantage of a cat’s natural instinct to work for food.
58
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