WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE SUMMER 2017

WINE DINE & 

TRAVELSUMMER WINTER 2016 2017 

THE AWARD-WINNING TRAVEL MAGAZINE 

198 PAGE 

SPECIAL EDITION 

THE FIRST IN WDT’S DISCOVERY SERIES 

DISCOVERING SLOVENIA 

THE AMAZING JOURNEY 

HOLIDAYS NEW ORLEANS’ STYLE 

CROATIA’S FEEL-GOOD ISLAND 

POSTCARDS FROM TANZANIA 

CRUISING THE “KING” RIVER IN EUROPE 

PHOTOGRAPHER’S HOLIDAY IN CUBA 

VISITING THE FAB FOUR’S LIVERPOOL 

WINEDINEANDTRAVEL.COM 1

2 

WDT MAGAZINE SPRING 2017

WE’RE SERIOUS ABOUT 

GREAT JOURNALISM 

SIX MAJOR NEW AWARDS FOR WDT 

Since our first year Wine Dine & Travel has earned dozens of awards for everything that makes a 

great magazine. We’ve won top awards in every key category, including editorial, design, humor, 

photography and columns. We’re proud of that we continue to receive these accolades year in and 

out from the most respected journalism organizations in the nation. That means that you know 

you’re reading one of the best travel publications in the industry. And that’s due to our dedicated 

family of world-class travel writers and photographers. We couldn’t do this without them. 

SDPC EXCELLENCE IN JOURNALISM AWARDS 2016 

Travel Story 

Humor Feature 

Layout & Design 

Still Photography 

Best Column 

THE AWARD-WINNING PRINT & DIGITAL TRAVEL MAGAZINE 


4 


EDITOR’S NOTE 

Ron & Mary James 

To the Kindness of Strangers 

You may have noticed recently that the world seems 

to be spinning out of control. Crudity, ignorance, 

dishonesty and heartlessness cascade from the 

highest offices in the land, setting toxic examples 

for young and old everywhere. Hardly a day goes by when we 

don’t wince as we look at the latest examples of inhumanity 

across the planet. 

As an antidote to this turmoil, let’s take a moment to look at 

the kinder, gentler side of life from a traveler’s perspective. 

Reflecting on two experiences on our recent trip, the world 

looks friendlier and more caring -- a place where universal 

goodness is expressed uncountable number of times a day 

in every city, town and village on Earth. We’ve seen it, experienced 

it - and try to practice it wherever and anytime we have 

the opportunity. 

In Venice, Italy, in late spring, Ron reached into his wallet, paid 

for dinner and walked away from the cashier. He was going 

out the door when a customer tapped him on the shoulder 

and handed him some Euros along with $60 American dollars. 

“Excuse me sir,” the kind and honest fellow said, “you 

dropped this at the register.” 

Just a few days earlier, we were on a train in France standing 

at the door, ready to get off at the upcoming station with our 

three heavy suitcases. A man dressed in a suit stood up and 

came over to us to tell us this wasn’t the stop we wanted. We 

looked at our tickets and realized he was right. The two stations 

shared similar names which is why we were confused. 

Our benefactor didn’t have to go out of his way to help strangers 

who didn’t even ask for help. He did it out of kindness. 

We could recount many other examples of the kindness of 

strangers, of unselfish deeds large and small. If you travel, you 

understand because it likely has happened to you. Kindness 

can come from anyone anywhere, gifting us with a much 

needed reminder that goodness is in our DNA. 

So the next time you’re depressed by the politics of hate and 

divisiveness, think about all of the kind deeds being committed 

around the world every second of everyday. And be sure 

to practice a bit of kindness as often as you can. The world 

will be better place because of it – and you. 

Happy Trails Friends, 



WINE DINE & 

TRAVEL 

IN OUR NEXT ISSUE 

THE JOY OF REPOSITIONING CRUISES 

MORE THAN A FOOD TOUR IN AMSTERDAM 

CRUISING THE RHINE ON THE CHEAP 

24 HOURS IN BEAUJOLAIS 

DISCOVER SLOVENIA PART 2 

6 


WDT TEAM 

PUBLISHERS 


EXECUTIVE EDITOR /ART DIRECTOR 

Ron James 

EDITOR 

Mary James 

STAFF WRITERS 

Alison DaRosa 

Priscilla Lister 

John Muncie 

Jody Jaffe 

COLUMNISTS 

Robert Whitley 

Susan McBeth 

FEATURE WRITERS 

Sharon Whitley Larsen 

Carl Larsen 

Maribeth Mellin 

Amy Laughinghouse 

Judy Garrison 

Stacy Taylor 

Maryanne McGuire and Ellen Federico 

Photo by Ron James 

Wine Dine & Travel Magazine is popular with Slovenian monks 

who don’t get out as much as they used to. Here’s one fan who 

would have chatted with us about the magazine, but he had 

sworn an oath of silence, so he toasted to us instead. 

WDT respects the intellectual property rights of others, and we ask that our readers do the same. We have adopted a policy in accordance with the Digital Millennium 

Copyright Act (“DMCA”) and other applicable laws. 

Wine Dine & Travel Magazine is a Wine Country Interactive Inc. publication @ 2017 Contact editor@winedineandtravel.com 


OUR JOURALISTS 

Ron James 

Ron James is the "wine, food and travel guy." He is a nationally award-winning print and online 

journalist, graphic designer, television producer and radio personality. The native Californian's 

nationally syndicated wine and food columns have appeared in newspapers and magazines 

around the world. He is passionate about great wine and food and enthusiastically enjoys 

them every day! 


Maribeth Mellin is an award-winning journalist whose travel articles have appeared in Endless 

Vacation Magazine, U-T San Diego and Dallas Morning News among others. She also 

travels and writes for several websites including CNN Travel, Concierge.com and Zagat, and 

has authored travel books on Peru, Argentina, Costa Rica, Mexico, Hawaii and California. 

Though known as a Mexico pro, Maribeth has written about every continent and was especially 

thrilled by the ice, air and penguins in Antarctica. 

Priscilla Lister 

Priscilla Lister is a longtime journalist in her native San Diego. She has covered many subjects 

over the years, but travel is her favorite. Her work, including photography, has appeared in the 

San Diego Union-Tribune, Los Angeles Times, Alaska Airlines’ magazine and numerous other publications 

throughout the U.S. and Canada. She is the author of “Take a Hike: San Diego County,” 

a comprehensive hiking guide to 260 trails in amazing San Diego County. But when the distant 

road beckons, she can’t wait to pack her bags. 

Robert Whitley 

Robert Whitley writes the syndicated “Wine Talk” column for Creators Syndicate and is publisher 

of the online wine magazine, Wine Review Online. Whitley frequently serves as a judge 

at wine competitions around the world, including Concours Mondial de Bruxelles, Sunset 

Magazine International and the Dallas Morning News TexSom wine competitions. Robert also 

operates four major international wine competitions in San Diego: Critics Challenge, Winemaker 

Challenge, Sommelier Challenge and the San Diego International. 

Jody Jaffe & John Muncie 

Jody and John are the co-authors of the novels, “Thief of Words,” and “Shenandoah Summer,” 

published by Warner Books. John was feature editor of the San Diego Union-Tribune, arts editor 

of The Baltimore Sun and writer-editor-columnist for the travel department of The Los Angeles 

Times. His travel articles have been published in many major newspapers; he's a Lowell Thomas 

award-winner. Jody is the author of "Horse of a Different Killer,"'Chestnut Mare, Beware," and "In 

Colt Blood,” As a journalist at the Charlotte Observer, she was on a team that won the Pulitzer 

Prize. Her articles have been published in many newspapers and magazines including The New 

York Times and The Los Angeles Times. They live on a farm in Lexington, Va., with eleven horses, 

three cats and an explosion of stink bugs. 

Stacy Taylor 

After receiving a degree in Broadcast Journalism at the University of Florida, Stacy Taylor 

entered the radio field where he worked for nearly 40 yrs, the final 30 as a talk show host. His 

last gig was at the legendary KGO in San Francisco. After retirement, he moved to Northern 

Baja Mexico where he lives today. 

8 


Mary James 

Mary Hellman James is an award-winning San Diego journalist and editor. After a 29-yearcareer 

with the San Diego Union-Tribune, she currently is a freelance garden writer and a 

columnist for San Diego Home-Garden/Lifestyles magazine. Mary and her husband, Ron 

James, travel extensively. 

Alison DaRosa 

Alison DaRosa is a six-time winner of the Lowell Thomas Gold Award for travel writing, the 

most prestigious prize in travel journalism. She served 15 years as Travel Editor of the San Diego 

Union-Tribune and was the award-winning editor of the San Diego News Network Travel 

Page. She created San Diego Essential Guide, a highly rated travel app for mobile devices. 

Alison writes a monthly Travel Deals column for the San Diego Union-Tribune and is a regular 

freelance contributor to the travel sections of the Los Angeles Times, USA Today and AOL 

Travel. 

Carl H. Larsen 

Carl H. Larsen is a veteran journalist based in San Diego. He now focuses on travel writing, and 

is summoned to pull out his notebook whenever there’s the plaintive cry of a steam locomotive 

nearby. In San Diego, he is a college-extension instructor who has led courses on the Titanic 

and the popular TV series “Downton Abbey.” 

Judy & Len Garrison 

Judy is the editor of Georgia Connector Magazine and Peach State Publications as well as a 

freelance writer/photographer/traveler for national/international publications including Deep 

South Magazine, Interval Magazine, Simply Buckhead, US Airways Magazine, Southern Hospitality 

Traveler and has a bi-monthly blog in Blue Ridge Country’s online edition. Her first book, 

North Georgia Moonshine: A History of the Lovells and other Liquor Makers, is available at 

Amazon.com. She and Len own Seeing Southern,L.L.C., a documentary photography company. 

Sharon Whitley Larsen 

Sharon Whitley Larsen’s work has appeared in numerous publications, including Los Angeles 

Times Magazine, U-T San Diego, Reader’s Digest (and 19 international editions), Creators 

Syndicate, and several “Chicken Soup for the Soul” editions. Although she enjoys writing essays, 

op-ed, and people features, her favorite topic is travel (favorite destination London). She’s 

been lucky to attend a private evening champagne reception in Buckingham Palace to celebrate 

Queen Elizabeth II’s Diamond Jubilee, to dine with best-selling author Diana Gabaldon in the 

Scottish Highlands, and hike with a barefoot Aborigine in the Australian Outback. Exploring 

sites from exotic travels in the Arctic Circle to ritzy Rio, with passport in hand, she’s always 

ready for the next adventure! 

Amy Laughinghouse 

London-based writer and photographer Amy Laughinghouse has attempted to overcome her 

fears (and sometimes basic common sense) through her adventures in 30 countries around the 

world. She dishes on the perks and perils of globetrotting for publications like LonelyPlanet.com, 

AAA Journey Magazine, Virtuoso Life, and The Dallas Morning News. Her travel tales can also 

be found on her website, www.amylaughinghouse.com. 


Contents 

20 

104 In 

110 

Scientists’ 

124 

“ 


Slovenia offered the best of Europe wrapped up in a 

small country package. Quaint ancient towns and villages, 

stunning landscapes from the Alps to the Mediterranean 

seaside towns, the country is flat out gorgeous. 

A VIETNAM POSTSCRIPT 

Vietnam there was a friendly, albeit reserved, population, 

and stores, galleries, and boutiques dealing in luxury goods. In 

the center of Saigon is a 5-story shopping mall that makes the 

Century City Mall in L.A. look like a flea market. 

THE MAGIC OF LOSINJ 

pursuit of perfect climate and pristine environment led 

them to Losinj, an island in the northern Adriatic, about 30 miles 

off the coast of what is now Croatia. Its Croatia’s feel good island. 

HOLIDAY NEW ORLEAN’S STYLE 

During that month, more than 50 of this food city’s great restaurants 

celebrate the season with reveillon dinner menus that 

offer special multi-course feasts.” 

10 


136 

From 

THE FAB FOUR’S LIVERPOOL 

staying at the Hard Days Night Hotel- 

-to taking a ferry ‘cross the Mersey--to 

touring the Beatles’ childhood homes and 

historic sites--this city of 465,000 is Fabulous 

“Fab Four” Fun. 

146 

154 

PARADISE FOUND 

In the dimly-lit afterlife, towering stalactites 

and dagger-like stalagmites punctuate sinuous 

corridors that wind through bulbous, 

dimpled rock, like the pathways of a giant, 

labyrinthine brain. There are even handrails to 

prevent you from falling into the abyss. 

TRINBAGONIAN VIBES 

Teens, grownups and elders drummed and 

danced, girls’ hair whipping side to side... 

and melodies from rows of shiny steelpans 

balanced on perches in a barren back lot on a 

dusky Trinidanian evening. 

162 

POSTCARD FROM TANZANIA 

We saw our first big cat a half hour after 

entering Tarangire National Park. We were 

late to the viewing. By the time we drove 

up, eight other safari trucks and at least 23 

zoom-lenses, some the size of an elephant’s 

leg, were already ahead of us. 

172 

A PHOTOGRAPHER’S CUBA 

From the Jet Blue window it looked like most 

Caribbean islands, but this island was Cuba, 

an outlawed destination for Americans until 

recently. We were living a life-long dream 

-- ten days in Cuba through the lens of our 

cameras. 


12 



Travel Gear 

WDT TESTED & APPROVED 

Classy Wine Transport 

Here’s a wine bag we love. It’s great looking and keeps 

wines safe and cool. It’s from Vessel, known for their chic, 

high quality bags, backpacks and totes.. The sleek, modern 

bags are made of carbon fiber to keep your wine protected 

and at the perfect temperature. 

We also like that it offers the perfect combination of style 

and cause. With each bag purchased, Vessel gives a 

school backpack to a child in need, helping them get the 

education they deserve. Since this innovative program 

began, Vessel customers have helped provide over 13,000 

backpacks for children in need! http://vesselbags.com 

The Ultimate Portable Safe 

It can be tricky to keep your wallet and other valuables safe when you’re 

staying in a hotel, at the beach or visiting an amusement park. Don’t try to 

hide your phone in a beach bag or under a towel because chances are it will 

be stolen! In fact, each year in the U.S. more than three million cell phones 

are stolen, and most of these occurrences happen in plain sight at beaches, 

pools and parks. SAFEGO is the best way to stash your stuff. 

This stylish, lightweight safe is the ultimate theft deterrent for safeguarding 

valuables. With its heavy-duty lock and unique flexible steel cable. We tried 

it and found it works and looks as advertised and a great investment for 

travelers who love the beach. https://safego.us/ 

14 


Upgrade to First Class 

With eShave’s 5 Blades Travel Razor A cult brand 

favorite among men’s grooming product aficionados, eShave’s 

new 5 Blades Travel Razors designed for portability 

and worry-free travel. The Travel Razor comes with a canister 

that cleverly serves a dual purpose: it protects the razor 

while maintaining the fashionable jet-setters sense of style 

with a “James Bond” look and feel. When finished using 

it, simply disassemble and put the razor back in its velvet 

bag and store in the sturdy and durable canister. The Travel 

Razor offers comfort, reliable shaving results in a portable, 

small package. 

We tried resulting in a close shave and a thumb’s up. Available 

at: www.eShave.com ($115) 

The Ultimate SD Hiking Guide 

If you’re a local or a traveler who enjoys walks in the backcountry, 

canyons and mountains of an unparalleled region, 

this hiking guide will take you to the best trails and walks in 

San Diego County. We bought one and can’t wait to hike the 

new trails we discovered in the book. 

As one reader put it, “I’ve lived in San Diego all my life and 

never realized how much of it I was missing. Excellent book. 

I’ve purchased multiple copies as gifts for friends, too.” 

Winner of The Geisel Award 2017 for book of the year from 

the San Diego Book Awards. Buy it at Amazon or your favorite 

local bookseller. www.takeahikesandiego.com. 

Wine Education in a Tube 

Vinebox, the first wine-by-the-glass subscription service for for wine lovers 

to find a way to bring sampling of small, European wine producers to the 

masses. The subscripton offers spectacular wines delivered every month 

obsessively selected by their team of sommeliers. This is not your standard 

wine club; it’s a new way to sample and learn about wines from around the 

world. We tried it and loved the the very approachable, sophisticated wines 

and the concept. Find out more at https://www.getvinebox.com/ 


LOOKING FOR A GREAT DINING EXPERIENCE? 

RON & MARY JAMES OFFER THEIR SELECTION OF MORE THAN A HUNDRED OF THE BEST 

EATERIES IN SAN DIEGO IN THE CURRENT FODOR’S TRAVEL GUIDE SAN DIEGO EDITION. 

FREE ONLINE OR BUY IT IN PRINT ON AMAZON OR AT YOUR FAVORITE BOOKSTORE. 

WWW.FODORS.COM 

16 



Susan McBeth 

Travel by the Book 

Fast Into the Night by Debbie Clarke Moderow 

The largest and most sparsely populated U.S. state has 

held intrigue since it was purchased from the Russian 

Empire in 1867. Quickly dubbed “Seward’s Folly” when 

U.S. Secretary of State William Seward negotiated the 

icebox acquisition for a cool seven million dollars, 150 years 

later, confusion still reigns as to its 

identity with respect to the “lower fortyeight” 

as Alaskans refer to the rest of 

the continental U.S. 

While it is not popular knowledge 

that the state flag was designed by a 

thirteen-year old boy, or that Alaska has 

more coastline than the other 49 states 

combined, or that Juneau is the only 

state capitol that is not accessible by 

road, it probably comes as no surprise 

that the official state sport is dog mushing, 

including the grandest representation 

of all, the grueling Iditarod. 

Legend has it that the race evolved 

from a life-saving sled dog relay that 

occurred in January, 1925 when the 

children of Nome were suffering from 

a deadly outbreak of diphtheria. Their 

survival depended on obtaining a batch 

of anti-toxin serum that was only available 

1,100 miles away in Anchorage. The 

wintery, ice-choked harbor and subzero 

temperatures precluded sea and train 

transport leaving the only reliable alternative: sled dogs. Three 

weeks later, the life-saving serum was delivered. 

In reality, the idea of a race was conceived of to commemorate 

the important role of dog teams in Alaska state history, 

after the introduction of iron dogs (snowmobiles) led to mass 

abandonment of dog teams. Various iterations of racing developed, 

but in 1973, the iconic Iditarod Sled Dog Race was born, 

and has now become the most famous sled dog race in the 

world. So why would anybody want to run an 1,100 mile sled 

dog race in the midst of an Alaskan winter, through some of 

the harshest conditions on Earth? 

Perhaps Debbie Clarke Moderow’s memoir, Fast Into the 

Night (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt 2016), can shed some light. 

After reeling from a near-death fall into an icy crevasse upon 

her initial arrival in Alaska, followed by several miscarriages, a 

friend condolently gifted her with Salt, a retired Iditarod sled 

dog. The bond that developed between the two quickly turned 

to Debbie’s passion once the family invited other dogs into 

their lives, and her newfound hobby eventually turned into a 

dream of running the Iditarod. 

Meticulously related, Fast Into the Night offers readers a 

glimpse of the overwhelming logistics involved in planning for, 

and running, this punishing eight to fifteen day endeavor, including 

management of a starting field of sixteen dogs, nearly 

two tons of food, drop bags, clothing, 

thousands of dog booties, life-saving 

tools and medical supplies. Yet, what 

really determines race success is the 

musher’s relationship with her dogs, 

and even the best equipped racer, as 

Debbie soon discovered, may not be 

enough. 

The real story in Debbie’s book, is 

not the Iditarod, although fascinating, 

or even in Debbie’s quest to run the 

race, which she first attempted at the 

age of 47. She had trained her select 

team - Kanga, the team leader, along 

with Juliet, Lil’ Su, Piney, Creek, Nacho, 

Zeppy, and Taiga - on many occasions 

in preparation, and never had she encountered 

any substantial problems 

that would lead her to believe they 

were not capable of completing the 

biggest race of her career as a dog 

musher. Yet that is precisely what happened. 

Just 200 miles short of the finish 

line, her beloved dogs balked and in a moment, all the preparation, 

the training, the harsh terrain and weather conditions that 

they had endured up to that point seemed for naught. Yes, she 

was disappointed that they did not finish the race. After battling 

injuries, hallucinations, raging storms, and bouts of selfdoubt 

during those first fatiguing 900 miles, this was nothing 

compared to the crushing realization that Debbie had lost 

touch with her beloved dogs. 

Applying the same fierce determination she used to train for 

the Iditarod in the first place, Debbie embarked on a mission to 

get at the heart of the breakdown to see if a second race was in 

their future. The book will take you along thru the treacherous 

trails, the hostile landscape, the dark and barren wilderness, 

the icy and pristine beauty of the trail, but where it really takes 

the reader is into the mind of this fiercely devoted dog musher 

who finally comes to understand that what her dogs need is 

her truth and that, without that, none of them would ever win. ~ 

by Susan McBeth 

18 



A WDT Discovery Series Part 1 

Discovering 

SLOVENIA 

six days in a traveler’s paradise 

Story & Photography by Ron James 

20 

WDT MAGAZINE SPRING 2017 

Camel and burror rides offered to weary 

walkers in front of the ancient Roman amphitheater 

in Petra.

After touring Slovenia for a just a couple of days it didn’t take 

us long to fall in love with this remarkable country. And it’s 

not just because the word love is part of its name. 

Lake Bled with the Bled Castle perched on shear rocky cliffs. 


We’ve learned that discovering great destinations are 

often the result of simple serendipity - like throwing a 

dart at a world map. 

Maps, I noticed a small unfamiliar country arched between Italy 

and Croatia, shaped somewhat like a chicken. “Hmmm – Slovenia 

– looks interesting,” I thought. 

In this case, our dart throwing came as we researched an upcoming 

trip to Europe that would include a stay in Venice and a ferry 

ride across the Adriatic Sea to explore Croatia. Looking at Google 

The more we learned, the more intrigued we became. This 

country met all our criteria for visiting new destinations -- beauty, 

cultural and historical uniqueness, affordability, and, friendly 

In an ancient looking wine bar in downtown Ljubljana, the 

sommelier opens a bottle of Slovenia’s best. 

Center: Streets are lively at The Triple Bridge is a group of 

three bridges across the Ljubljanica River. It connects the 

Ljubljana’s historical, medieval, town on one bank, and the 

modern city of Ljubljana, capital of Slovenia, on the other. 

22 


educated people. It also helped to learn that most Slovenians 

speak some English. We decided to give it a try. 

Working with the Slovenian Tourist Board and Nataša Kejžar, we 

planned a jam-packed six-day itinerary to explore the country in 

the company of an expert young guide Jani PelJhan. The tourist 

board website is invaluable to anyone wanting to visit. You’ll find 

links to it and other resources at the end of this story. 

On our trip, we found Slovenia offers the best of Europe without 

crowds and high cost. As one travel writer suggested, Slovenia 

has a unique style and attitude: it runs as efficiently as Germany 

but has the laid-back attitude of Italy. Author and Europe expert 

Rick Steves was absolutely right when he wrote “In hindsight, 

most travelers cite Slovenia as the biggest pleasant surprise of 

their itinerary — and wish they’d budgeted more time there.” 

The river rages through the Tolmin Gorges. 



LJUBLJANA 

LAKE BLED 

Kranjska 

Gora 

Bovec 

RADOVLJICA 

Lipica 

JULIAN ALPS/TRIGLAVE PARK 

Portorož 

TOLMIN GORGES 

LIPICA STUD FA 

24 


PREDJAMA CASTLE 

Dravograd 

Ljutomer 

Ormož 

Lendava 

POSTOJNA CAVE 

Podčetrtek 

SLOVENSKE KONJICE 

ZICE CHARTERHOUSE 

RM 

POROROZ & PIRAN 

Photos and illustration Ron James. Map courtesy 

Slovenian Tourist Agency. 


SLOVENIA 101 

26 


Beautiful pastures covered with wildflowers 

in the Radovljica area. 

There are geographic and historical explanations for Slovenian 

temperament. Here’s a brief primer. 

Slovenia is a small country with a big heart. It covers 

around 8,000 square miles with a population of slightly 

more than two million. For comparison, that’s about the 

size of New Jersey with only a quarter of the residents. 

Although their language is kin with Slavic people from the 

Balkan Peninsula, the Slovenians are culturally an Alpine 

folk with much in common with northern Italians, southern 

Germans, and the Swiss. 


Slovenians live in a new country that is very old and carries 

a lot of historical and cultural baggage. They have been conquered 

ruled by despots, emperors and kings of every stripe. 

Their historic timeline is laced with periods of good times and 

oppression. 

Until the 20th century, the area of Slovenia was ruled by 

foreigners, including the Romans, French and Italians, but 

mostly by the Hapsburgs and the Austro-Hungary monarchy. 

Slovenia became part of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia after the 

First World War, and then part of the Socialist Federal Republic 

of Yugoslavia after the Second World War. 

After more than 70 years of living in Yugoslavia, the Slovenians 

had built a consensus for an independent path. Despite 

hundreds of years of oppression the Slovenians emerged 

as a nation and forged their own identity. In the 1990 vote 

for independence, almost ninety percent of the population 

voted for their freedom. In 2004, Slovenia joined the EU and 

became a member of NATO. 

Tiny village with ancient bridge spanning the 

Soca River. Right: Old stone walls and doors 

decorated with geraniums high above Piran. 

Opposite: Quaint red tiled towns abound 

always crowned with church steeples. 

28 



After all of that you can understand why Slovenians 

are hopeful for their nation’s future and maybe a little 

bit apprehensive, because they know how fragile 

freedom can be. We heard several times that their 

grandmother & grandfathers lived in three different 

countries, and never moved. That was then -- now 

there’s a new generation that has not felt the yoke 

of occupation. The future is in their hands -- for 

them everything is possible. 

A Slovenian legend has it that God initially forgot 

the country when allotting nature’s bounty. Once 

aware of the mistake, he took some best bits from 

the rest of Europe – from mountains to sea – for 

30 


The majestic Julian Alps . Italy is just on the 

other side. 

Slovenia. The results are stunning and among the 

nation’s greatest treasures. 

Slovenia borders Italy on the west, the Adriatic Sea 

on the southwest, Croatia on the south and east, 

Hungary on the northeast and Austria on the north. 

All have influenced parts of the country, adding to 

its rich cultural stew that impacts everything from 

music and dance to regional dialects and what’s 

served for dinner. 

The country is crowned by the magnificent Julian 

Alps. Its highest peak, Triglav, that soars more than 

9,300 feet, is pictured on the country’s flag. 


32 

Concert and festival day in the 

town square of Piran 



SLOVENIA 101 

The mountains give way to incredible green valleys decorated 

with 16 thousand miles of lakes, rivers and streams. Of the 59 

major rivers in the country, the Soca River is certainly one of 

the jewels -- this river from our experience has to be one of 

the most beautiful rivers in the world. There are lots of rivers 

in Slovenia, but very little coastline, so perhaps the most important 

real estate to Slovenians is their 29 miles of beautiful 

coastline along the Adriatic Sea. 

Slovenians we met appreciated their country’s grandeur, 

beauty and cultural charms and enjoyed showing it off. They 

also take advantage of it. Most are outdoor enthusiasts who 

love to hike, bike, ski, climb really tall mountains, kayak or raft 

down swiftly flowing rivers and splash in the Adriatic. 

That love of nature likely explains why Slovenians care deeply 

about their environment. During our stay we saw about 

two-thirds of the country and noticed very little urban sprawl, 

industrial eye-sores or pollution. That’s by design; more than 

11 percent of Slovenia’s territory is specially protected. 

Top: The Soca river has to be one of the 

most beautiful rivers not only in Slovenia 

but in the world. Right: The many landscapes 

of Slovenia. 

34 


At Petra, came 

stone gorges an 

make up one of

ls, donkeys, dramatic sandd 

cliffs, and stunning ruins 

the world’s great treasures. 


RADOVLJICA 

36 


Living History 

Take the town of Radovljica, founded in the 13th century 

on a plateau high above the Sava River. The old town 

center looks pretty much the same as it did in its heyday 

in the 16th century with administrative buildings on one 

side of the square and crafts and trade buildings on the other. 

In the early days of the town fortifications including 16 towers, 

walls and a moat encircled the town. Still visible, that moat is 

the only one preserved in the country. 

Old town’s buildings, including the Radovljica Mansion that 

dominates the square, are among the best-preserved examples 

of sixteenth century Slovene town architecture. Today 

the mansion is home to a fascinating beekeeping museum 

and another dedicated to the country’s most famous composer, 

Anton Tomaž Linhart (1756–1795). 

Bee keeping in Slovenia spans several centuries and still 

thrives today. We were fascinated by the story of how the 

Carniolan honey bee, famous for its production and nonaggressive 

behaviour, became a worldwide favourite, including 

in our hometown of San Diego. Another highlight was 

the museum’s impressive collection of rare antique beehive 

panels, painted wooden planks that decorated bee boxes as 

far back as the 1700s. Authentic beehive panels are important 

Slovene folk art and very hard to find, though we did spot 

some knock-offs in a couple Ljubljana tourist shops. 

Left: An upscale jeweler in the Gold Souk. 

Middle: Tourist shops abound in Dubai. 

Here’s a popular shop for cruisers selling 

spices, candies and t-shirts . 


While in Radovljica, we also tried our hand decorating gingerbread 

hearts at Lectar House, home to a rustic inn and restaurant 

since 1822. The house also contains a gingerbread 

museum in the space used for making gingerbread since 

1766. Today artisans in period costumes and using antique 

tools and ovens, make, shape and decorate the confection 

according to age-old recipes for customers to purchase. 

Although this gingerbread shaped into hearts and holiday ornaments 

are edible, most are kept as mementos of weddings, 

birthdays, anniversaries and other special occasions. Don’t 

miss the fascinating mini-museum of hearts made many decades 

ago. We had the pleasure of trying our hand decorating 

a heart with the traditional folkloric designs and learned very 

quickly, it’s harder than it looks. 

Right: Mary and I try our hand at deorating 

gingerbread hearts.. 

Top: Servers tending their ancient tables at 

the Lectar House. 

Right: A museum dedicated to the country’s 

most famous composer, Anton Tomaž 

Linhart (1756–1795). 

38 



Our last stop in Radovljica was the tourist center with its attractive 

displays of local products and crafts. We were fortunate to meet 

charming young women in 18th century period dress offering samplings 

of handcrafted chocolates and schnapps – both delicious. 

The tourist office offers free town tours every Tuesday morning. 

Top: Bee keeping museum showcases historical 

bee boxes and bee keeping equipment. 

40 


Above: Local drink that burns when it 

goes down served by pretty lady in period 

dress on the right. 


SLOVENSKE KONJICE 

Slovenske Konjice is another quaint Slovenian town 

where its history is woven into the modern fabric 

of life. Reminders of the past – good times and 

not so good – greeted us all around the old village. 

Figures of horses abound, for example, reminders that the 

town was a crossroads for horse riders and carriages for 

many years, when its main industry was care and trading of 

the great steeds. 

Brave St. George is a significant character here too. Inside 

the church built in 1140 that bears his name, we discovered 

a magnificent alter with an 18th-century golden sculpture of 

the youthful, round-faced knight. Under his heel is a small 

vanquished golden dragon, a reminder of the town’s destruction 

by fire four times over the centuries. After the last fire the 

town was rebuilt mostly using stones from the nearby ruins 

of the Zice Charterhouse. 

Our guide recounted the local legend that virgins were sent 

to the dragon as an offering to keep the beast from torching 

things. The deal worked for several years until the daughter 

of the town’s leader was next to be sacrificed. Enter St. 

George who slays the dragon, marries the fair maiden and 

lives happily after. 

Church of St. George with full slain dragon. 

Lower center: Herb shop keeper in period 

dress. 

Right: The figure of a horse is a symbol of 

the town’s past and can be seen in several 

forms around the village. 

42 



THE SPIRIT OF THE ZICE CHARTERHOUSE 

Illustration of the guard towers and gate of 

the Charterhouse entrance by Ron James 

44 


“I asked my guide where exactly where are they 

buried. “You’re standing on them,” she said in a 

serious tone. Then she smiled and walked on. ” 

A 

short drive away through pristine countryside is the 

remote, narrow valley named St. John the Baptist 

to the remains of the Zice Charterhouse. There’s 

spiritual quality to this locale that perhaps explains why it 

was chosen by a fiercely spiritual order, Zice Carthusians, 

as its home some 850 years ago. The brothers closed up 

shop in the 18th century, but their presence lives on in their 

The restored ruins of the Charterhouse of the fiercely 

spiritual order, Zice Carthusians. 


compound’s ruins and restored buildings that house permanent 

exhibitions documenting the monks’ remarkably austere lives. 

is a serious tone, “You’re standing on them.” Then she smiled and 

walked on. 

It was a bit creepy to visit areas where each monk lived in silence 

in solitary stone dwellings, mostly just mounds of grass now. 

In the middle was a roofless and crumbling small chapel where 

ceremonies preceded burials in a nearby graveyard. When I 

asked my guide where exactly the monks were interred, she said 

A highlight of the tour was a visit to the exotic Viva Sana herb 

shop where the proprietor dressed in the official monk’s garb 

served of shots of nasty tasting stuff that’s supposed to be good 

for you. Its other herbal potions for sale carried on the traditions 

of the monks who operated a pharmacy here in the 16th century. 

Above: The proprietor dressed in the official 

monk’s garb served of shots of nasty 

tasting stuff that’s supposed to be good 

for you. . 

46 


Before leaving, we stopped in a wooden structure built in the 

15th century as an inn for visitors to monastery. The Gastuž 

Inn, still going strong, is one of the oldest still operating inns 

in Central Europe. As we enjoyed sparkling wines from 

nearby Konjice, I thought about the many thirsty patrons 

that had preceded us in this old inn. I also acknowledged 

the irony that Konjice had “borrowed’ stone from the monks’ 

compound to rebuild after the town’s last great fire. 

Walking the holy burial grounds of the Charterhouse 

where they buried the monks sans casket. 

Below: The Gastuž Inn, still going strong, is one of the 

oldest still operating inns in Central Europe. 


THE LIPICA STUD FARM 

Horsing Around 

On the rainy day we were scheduled to stop at 

the Lipica Stud Farm, I admit I wasn’t enthused. 

What would we do there - watch horses make 

little horses? But my attitude changed when 

our guide Jani explained that we were at the original home of 

the world-famous Lipizzaner Stallions of the Spanish Riding 

School of Vienna, Austria. These statuesque white horses and 

their riders tour the world demonstrating the precise movements 

of classical dressage, including highly controlled, stylized 

jumps and other movements known as “airs above the 

ground.” Obviously my curiosity was piqued. 

We learned that Lipizzaners were bred here for Austrian 

Hapsburg nobles starting in the 1580s, which makes Lipica 

Europe’s oldest stud farm still in operation. The farm is a 

large verdant estate dotted with historic stables and buildings, 

including a full chapel built mostly in the 1700s.. In 

1996 the Lipica Stud Farm and its horses were declared a 

48 


Lipica mares looking after their youngsters. 

Right: The Queen of England looking over 

her gift horse Kanizo and Ron & Mary 

making friends with the same horse many 

years later. 


Slovenian cultural monument and enjoys special government 

protection. 

Watching foals and yearlings, we discovered the horses are 

black or dark brown, only turning gray-white as they mature. 

Each of the stylish, historic stables house horses of similar 

ages, sex or responsibilities. There’s even a nursery of sorts, 

the Borjača Stable, where moms look after their youngsters 

until they are ready for training. 

Before leaving, we were delight to pet one of Lipica’s most famous 

horses, Kanizo. In 2008, during a state visit to Slovenia, 

England’s Queen Elizabeth, accompanied by the Duke of Edinburgh, 

was presented with Kanizo, then a beautiful 16-year 

old stallion. Extremely gentle and social, Kanizo was happy 

for some affection even if it wasn’t from royalty. As I stroked 

the old beauty’s neck, I realized this would be as close to the 

Queen of England as I ever was likely to ever get. 

50 


After saying goodbye Kanizo, we boarded a carriage pulled by 

two Lipizzaners for a scenic tour around the farm’s beautiful tree 

lined paths and roads, including one lined with giant trees, each 

representing a horse sold over the years. With each sale, new 

trees are planted to this day. 

Mary touring the Lipica Stud Farm grounds, 

stables and horses.. Left: Old painting of 

the stud farm. Right: Ron and Mary take a 

carriage ride. 

To get the most out of a visit to Lipica, engage the services of 

a guide – they are for hire at the ticket booth. Or use the Lipica 

mobile phone guide. And if you’re lucky enough to meet Kanizo, 

give her a pet for us. 


PREDJAMA CASTLE 

Castle and Cave Like No Others 

A 

castle is a castle is a castle ... except when at Predjama 

Castle. Nothing prepared us for our first view of 

this dramatic four-story medieval rock fortress seemingly 

stuck in the mouth of a gigantic cave. 

It took 300 years to build the castle, working with primitive 

hand tools at the beginning of the 13th century. As we entered 

its cool dank interior, our guide pointed out holes in the ceiling 

where defenders poured boiling oil on enemies who had 

managed to make it that far. Our tour took us past stacks of 

giant round boulders flung into the castle by catapults and a 

dungeon outfitted with the latest 16th century torture gear. 

Much of the castle showcases how the robbers and other 

52 


Touring Predjama Castle -- a dramatic fourstory 

medieval rock fortress built at the 

entrance to a cave. 


outlaws who dwelt there lived – and died. If you’re willing to 

stow your dignity, don a medieval metal helmet in the armory 

as I did for a once-in-a-lifetime selfie. 

At the top of the cave, our guide pointed out an ingenious hiding 

place called Erazem’s Nook, after Erazem Lueger, a 15thcentury 

robber-baron who, like Robin Hood, stole from the rich 

to give to the poor. Erazem also supported the Hungarians 

during a war with the Austrians, who mounted a blockade 

of the castle in 1484. To their chagrin, Erazem mocked his 

attackers by showering them with fresh cherries, gathered via 

a secret tunnel that allowed him to bring in fresh provisions. 

54 


(For an extra fee, nimble non-claustrophobic visitors can climb 

through the narrow route now known as Erazem’s Passage.) 

The armory, dungeon and the author trying 

on the latest headwear. 

As fate would have it Erazem got it in the end so to speak. He 

was inside the medieval outhouse perched at the edge of the 

castle when a large catapulted stone smashed the facility and 

ended his days forever. 


POSTOJNA CAVE 

Our next stop, also part of the area’s Karst cave system, 

Postojna Cave, one of the most popular tourist 

attractions in Slovenia with some 37 million visitors 

annually. Recalling visits to other caverns including those in 

Halong Bay in Viet Nam and Reed Flute Cave in China, we 

didn’t expect to be blown away. 

But we were: This Cave is a monster, with 15 miles of tunnels, 

galleries and halls filled with beautiful stalagmites and stalactites 

of all shapes and sizes. A small electric train fortunately 

transports you to the main galleries where no garish colored 

lights compete with the natural beauty. Plus any cave that celebrates 

a salamander as a mascot and logo is a friend of mine. 

When the cave opened to the public more than 140 years ago, 

visitors had to trek for hours to get the main chambers, then lit 

56 


Clockwise: One of the 

largest galleries in the cave 

system; The restaurant and 

ticket office; The entrance to 

the cave and train into the 

caverns. 


Scenes from the caverns and the human 

or dragon fish which can grow to 

11 inches, live up to 100 years and survive 

without food for years at a time.. 

58 


with candles. Today tour guides fluent in a host of languages 

are assigned help visitors from around the world appreciate 

the cave. All emphasize two rules: no flash photography- it 

can discolour the cave interior - and no standing up on the 

train. (Of course one guy in the train ahead of us stood up to 

shoot a photo with a flash. He was quickly reprimanded.) 

One fascinating titbit is that more than 150 animal species live 

in the Karst caves. The largest is a salamander (mentioned 

earlier) that is said to be the offspring of dragons. Locals call 

them human fish or sometimes dragon fish. These pale little 

creatures can grow to 11 inches, live up to 100 years and survive 

without food for years at a time. 

After exiting the train, we walked from one gallery or hall to 

another via ramps and walkways with slip-resistant coatings 

as our guide shared the history and natural science behind 

each dazzling vista. 

Good walking shoes and a jacket or sweater to ward off the 

chill are recommended for this tour. And remember - Don’t 

stand up and take flash pictures. Yes, I’m talking to you. 


LAKE BLED 

Picture-perfect Scenes 

Lake Bled tends to be Slovenia’s best known destination. 

The emerald-green Alpine lake with the country’s only 

natural island topped by a storybook church is everyone’s 

postcard shot. Framed by the Julian Alps and Karavanke range 

and fed by natural springs which make it the region’s spacentral, 

Bled draws a wide range of tourists – honeymooners 

to outdoor enthusiasts - who make it their hub for relaxing as 

well as biking, kayaking and river rafting. 

We joined a gaggle of Japanese tourists armed with selfie 

60 


sticks on one of the traditional wooden boats called pletnas 

that have transported visitors across the lake to the island 

for centuries. No powerboats here, just the muscle of standing 

rowers called pletnars, members of local families granted 

boating rights generations ago. 

Our pletnar was a young blond who must have made young 

girls’ hearts flutter as he propelled us across the lake. Did he 

ever wish his father and grandfathers had been investment 

bankers instead of pletnars, I asked. He just smiled wistfully 

and kept on rowing. 


Once landing at the island, it was our turn for some 

athleticism. We had to climb 99 steps – a feat my 

old out-of-shape body managed to achieve – to 

enter the Assumption of Mary Church. Our motivation, 

beside spectacular views, was to test the local 

legend that promises a wish will come true if you 

ring the 16th-century church bell. I managed to pull 

the heavy rope and the bell tolled. I’m sure it’s just a 

matter of time before my wish to return as a blond 

muscular investment banker comes true. 

Beside the island and church, the lake’s other most 

photographed attraction is the castle towering on 

a cliff above the lake. The 12th -century castle is 

home many weddings and to a museum collection. 

Not to be missed is the castle cellar where can bottle 

wine and seal it with wax. 

The dollar doesn’t go as far in popular Bled as elsewhere 

in Slovenia, but by American standards it’s 

still a deal. Midsummer is the most popular time to 

visit, so plan accordingly. 

Three boats called pletnars, our rower is a 

member of local families granted boating 

rights generations ago. Left: Ron ringing a 

church bell and making a wish. 

62 



THE JULIAN ALPS & TRIGLAV NATIONAL PARK 

Beautiful Lake Bled is a tough act to follow, but the 

Julian Alps and Triglav National Park were up to the 

challenge. Their majesty – grand in beauty and scale 

– are essential to Slovenia’s identity and spirit. The country’s 

Alpine culture was born of rugged men and women who 

trapped, farmed, ranched and mined here, eking out a living in 

the most inhospitable circumstances. Today many Slovenians 

salute those first settlers in a recreational way, be it conquering 

a mountain with a bike or cleats or taming a river in a raft 

or kayak. 

Our journey up a narrow mountain road, with vistas around 

every curve, brought us to the highest pass, where we 

stopped to admire the vast expanse and snap a few photos. 

Here above the tree line, the only sign of civilization was a 

weathered shack selling snacks and souvenirs, including 

64 


photos of the edelweiss and other Alpine flowers that bloom 

there. 

Storm clouds over the mighty Julian Alps. 

As impressive as the mighty Alps were, the trip down the 

mountain was equally breathtaking. We cruised through 

bright green Alpine meadows, thick with colorful wildflowers 

and bordered by the roaring Soca River, a brilliant glowing 

turquoise blue that seemed otherworldly. No wonder “Narnia” 

and other fantastical films have been shot here. 


My garden-writing wife Mary happily stopped at Alpinum Juliana, 

a 70 year-old botanical garden part of Triglav National Park. The 

garden sprawls across steep, rocky acres filled with rare colorful 

flowers and plants from the Eastern and Western Julian Alps, 

Friulian hills, and meadows of Karst. An inexpensive booklet filled 

with color photos and descriptions in English helps with plant 

IDs. See it as soon as possible, before climate change, already 

taking a toll, alters this rare growing ground forever. 

For an in-depth education on the area’s natural and cultural 

history, include a visit at the Dom Trenta Information Center 

and Museum of the Triglav National Park, set at the base of 

66 


the Alps near the village of Bovec. The exhibits are sophisticated 

and comprehensive, ranging from a reconstructed 

primitive cabin to an interactive display of bird calls. Some of 

our favourites include a film installation that captured the seasonal 

beauty of Trenta Valley forests and a slick eight-screen 

video about the magical underwater world of the Soca river. 

Alpine settings from Triglav National Park 

including the rustic gift shop at the Julian 

Alps pass and the Soca River. 


Before leaving the mountains for the seashore, we walked the 

amazing Tolmin Georges at the confluence of Tolminka and 

Zadlaščica streams where they have carved deep gorges into 

the rocks. We following a guide around this natural wonder 

that has attracted tourists from around world since its discovery 

in the late 19th century. Wooden walkways and stone 

steps lead down the mile- long gorge for dramatic views of 

pools, roaring waters and waterfalls, including the famed Sum 

waterfall. Afterwards I celebrated our two days of Alpine discovery 

with a large bottle of Slovenia’s favourite beer, served 

at a friendly cafe just outside the park. 

68 


Mary touring Alpinum Juliana, a 70 year-old 

botanical garden which is part of Triglav National 

Park. 


PIRAN & PORTOROZ 

Sand, Sea and Salt 

Slovenia’s 29 miles of Adriatic coastline, sandwiched 

between Croatia and Italy, is an invaluable lifeline 

for trade, recreation and tourism. To appreciate its 

importance spend a couple days in the “Pearls of Slovenia’s 

Riviera” – the charming coastal towns of Portoroz and Piran. 

Portoroz is known for its unique health spas that use the 

world-famous nearby salt and mud in their treatments. The 

town has several high-end hotels and some very good restaurants. 

We stayed in the historic Hotel Kempinski Palace in a 

room with a balcony that looked over the scenic bay boardwalk 

lined with beaches, restaurants and shops. If you’re feel- 

The Adriatic Sea and beautiful Tartini 

Square in Piran. Right: Folk dancers gather 

in an alley getting ready to dance in the 

square and the board walk lined with cafes. 

70 



ing lucky there are three casinos in the town too. Many visitors 

to Slovenia use accommodations in Portoroz, as we did, as a 

base to visit the local wine country and medieval town of Piran. 

Piran was part of Italy until the end of World War II, which 

explains the Italian ambience of its ancient medieval streets, 

quaint shops and bustling seaside cafes. Our guide met us in 

beautiful Tartini Square framed by colorful boats bobbing in 

the harbour and historic buildings built on soil dredged from 

the sea. Our timing was perfect – blue skies, soft breezes and 

a festival in full swing. An orchestra played in the shadow of a 

statue of Piran’s most famous native son, violin virtuoso and 

composer Giuseppe Tartini. Locals dressed in period costumes 

performed or manned booths showcasing the area’s history, 

72 


including work in the local salt pans. 

Not so long ago, salt was like gold, bringing jobs and wealth 

to the small fishing village that would evolve into a thriving 

port. There is a Salt-Making Festival every year in April in 

Tartini Square, where a charming store and small museum 

showcase Piran’s “fleur de sel” that often outranks French 

A festival and concert in Tartini Square in Piran. 

Right: Sea wall stone carvings, and women in period 

dress showing Piran sea salt. 


Scenes from our walking tour of 

Piran. 

74 


sea salts in taste tests. Gourmet chefs back home will be delighted 

to receive a small pouch of this prized salt as a gift. 

Zigzagging narrow streets lead up to an impressive church 

and viewpoints across town’s red-tiled roofs to the bay lapping 

Italy and Croatia in the distance. When you return to the 

cafe-lined boardwalk where many buildings date to Roman 

times, stop to sample local delicacies including super-fresh 

seafood, white truffles and great affordable Slovenian wines. 

People of Piran savor and support their culinary traditions. We 

were told that a McDonald’s opened a bit ago but closed in 

less than a year. 

Our visit here was far too short. Piran’s rich mix of history, culture, 

and beauty are sure to bring us back once more. 


LJUBLJANA 

76 



A Capital Find 

If this is the first time you’ve heard of Ljubljana, or if you’re 

wondering how to pronounce it, you’re probably not alone. 

Don’t feel bad. Until our visit to Slovenia’s capital city earlier 

this year, it was off our radar too. That’s changing as more 

travellers discover this dynamic, progressive, affordable and 

exciting place to visit. 

Ljubljana (Lub-li-yana) is the nation’s largest city of 278,000 

– 50,000 are students - and happens to be one of Europe’s 

greenest and most liveable capitals. Cars are not allowed in 

the center of the city and free electric carts will shuttle you 

from one end of it to another. Yes, free! 

Like Amsterdam, youthful optimistic energy enlivens the 

streets day and night. Those along the banks of the Ljubljanica 

River, which flows through the city’s heart, are gathering places, 

with lots of benches for people watching and outdoor cafes 

and wine bars that offer great food and drink at surprisingly 

affordable prices. Within walking distance of city center, there 

are open air markets and shops selling everything any other 

modern European city might offer. 

The heart and symbol of the city is the Ljubljana Castle. Its 

role has changed over the centuries from a mighty medieval 

fortress, to a civic center and tourist attraction for over a million 

visitors this last year. 

78 


Looking over the newer part of Ljubljana to 

the Julian Alps. Right: The old city oozes charm 

and cars are not allowed . 


The streets of old town Ljublyana belong 

to walkers and bick riders, no cars or buses 

allowed 

Top left: The free electric shuttle that took is 

from our hotel to the museum and back to 

our restaurnat for lunch. 

Left: Bronze door at the Church of St. 

Nicholas depicting Six Bishops of Ljubljana 

resting on the body of Christ with the 

symbol of water at the side which means 

eternal life 

80 


The Castle is also a cultural centre, hosting concerts, exhibitions, 

stage plays, social gatherings and state receptions. The 

Watchtower offers a wonderful vista over Ljubljana and its 

surroundings, and visitors. There’s a permanent exhibition of 

Slovenian History, and the Rustika gallery of cottage industry 

and arts and crafts. The castle even has its own vineyard. 

We had the pleasure of dining at the Gostilna Na gradu Restaurant 

led by living legend chef Ana Roš and Valter Kramar. 

The castle restaurant, that showcases modern Slovenian cuisine, 

is now considered one of the most extraordinary dining 

spots in the country. The food and service reflected the high 

standards we found on our entire trip. 

You can walk or bike up to the castle or do as we did take the 

The Ljubljana Castle Funicular is a funicular railway that goes 

from Krek Square near the Ljubljana Central Market to the 

Castle. 

Slovenian history and culture are celebrated here too. There 

are spectacular public art installations at every turn, from 

whimsical to classical Roman. Retail galleries offer everything 

from abstract to impressionism from local artists. Dozens of 

first rate museums and other cultural institutions are all within 

walking distance of the city center. 

As youthful and energetic as the city is, there is also visible 


ecognition of the importance of city’s history and culture. You 

can find it everywhere, from the food and drink to the carefully 

restored modern, minimalist design buildings by Slovenia’s 

master architect, Jože Plečnik. 

visiting museums, the expansive Tivoli Park and outdoor markets. 

The highlight of our day was a personal tour by reknown 

curator Andrej Smrekar, PhD .of the National Gallery which 

features breathtaking Slovenian art 

To appreciate it all, a guide is invaluable. The two tourist centers 

in the city center are staffed with friendly and knowledgeable 

Slovenians eager to help you experience Ljubljana. They offer 

several tours ranging from history to food and wine tasting. 

After six days exploring Slovenia, we were sad to see our visit 

come to an end.. We spent our last day walking around the city, 

We watched river boats cruising down the river, sampled regional 

delicacies in local shops and were delighted once again 

by a last Slovenian dining experience at Atelje Restaurant. But 

by this time, nothing much surprised us. This was Slovenia after 

all – a country that lives up to the love in its name. 

The National Gallery of Slovenia boasts a collection 

of 13,000 priceless Slovenian treasures dating 

from the 13th up till the 20th century. Right: 

Curator Andrej Smrekar, PhD of the National 

Gallery leading us on a tour. 

82 



IF YOU GO 

Slovenia Official Tourist Guide 

Everything you wanted to know about Slovenia 

https://www.slovenia.info/en 

Slovenian Tourist Board is active on the following social media channels: 

• Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/slovenia.info 

• Twitter - https://twitter.com/SloveniaInfo 

• Twitter (corporate account) - https://twitter.com/tourism_slo 

• Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/feelslovenia 

• YouTube - https://www.youtube.com/slovenia 

• LinkedIn - https://www.linkedin.com/company/slovenian-tourist-board 

• Pinterest - https://www.pinterest.com/feelslovenia/ 

Ljubljana Tourism 

Visit Ljubljana tourism website, the official guide to Ljubljana and Central Slovenia. 

https://www.visitljubljana.com/en/visitors/ 

Ljubljana In Your Pocket Guide 

Another excellent source of information about Ljubljana 

https://www.inyourpocket.com/ljubljana 

84 


Lake Bled Tourism 

http://www.bled.si/en/ 

Julian Alps 

http://www.julijske-alpe.com/english/ 

Radovljica Tourism 

http://www.radolca.si/en/radovljica-medieval-town/ 

Triglav National Park 

http://www.tnp.si/get_to_know/C176/ 

Bovec Tourism 

https://www.bovec.si/en/ 

Juliana Bortanical Park 

http://www.pms-lj.si/juliana/en/ 

Dom Trenta Information Center 

https://www.outdooractive.com/en/museum/slovenia/ 

Piran/Portoroz 

http://www.portoroz.si/en/portoroz-and-piran/ 

Slvenske Konjice 

http://www.destinacija-rogla.si/slovenske-konjice-town-centre 

A very special thanks to the Slovenian Tourist Board 

and our Slovenian gaurdian angels, Nataša Kejžar and 

Jani Peljhan who made this the trip of a lifetime. 


OUR ACCOMODATIONS 

Our plan was to stay in upscale, comfortable accommodations 

that our readers would consider if 

they were making the tour through Slovenia. We 

wanted range of experiences as well and as you will read in 

this section that’s exactly what we did – all very comfortable 

, yet each one a little different. All were most affordable by 

American standards and each one included a Western style 

breakfast, and WIFI. 

We know that not every one of our readers want or can 

afford top tier hotels. Fortunately Slovenia offers a host of 

very different types of accommodations including staying 

86 


in a castle or a working farm. If you want indulgence, choose a 

hotel as we did a number of times, 

If you value an authentic contact with hospitable locals, then the 

guest houses and pensions or private rooms are the right choice 

for you. A direct contact with green nature is offered by the 

camping grounds and tourist farms. Cyclists and hikers will find 

specialised accommodation, both in the valleys and mountains. 

The accommodation in private rooms and guest houses is a 

great opportunity to get acquainted with local customs, sights 

and cuisine. In Slovenia, there is a wide choice of providers of 

private rooms, apartments and holiday houses. They mostly 

belong to the two- or three-star category and provide accommodation 

at relatively reasonable prices. The following pages 

detail the places we stayed in or visited this remarkable country. 

WINE GROWER’S MANSION 

ZLATI GRIC HOTEL 

Boasting one of the most modern wineries in the Styria 

region, a Golf course and apartments in the Wine Growers’s 

Mansion from the 15th century, Zlati Grič is truly 

one of its hidden gems. We visited the ultramodern winery 

churning out some of Slovenia’s best wines and boasted an 9 

hole golf course and a fine dining quality restaurant. Because 

the winery, restaurant , golf course and local town make it a 

destination for travelers around the world, they also offer luxury 

accommodations apartments in the Wine Growers’s Mansion 

from the 15th century in the middle of the vineyards as shown 

in the photos.. http://www.zlati-gric.si/ 


RIMSKE TERME SPA AND HOTEL 

OK, I will be the first to admit, I’m not much of a spa 

guy, so I wasn’t thrilled to see a spa on our scheduled 

but it didn’t take long to change my opinion 

about what a spa can be. Rimske Terme is a spa with every 

kind of tub and pool ever conceived of. It’s a top tier hotel with 

suites that would put a Las Vegas presidential suite to shame 

and its a full-on dining destinations with a variety of offerings 

-- from burgers and shakes to ultra-fine dining. 

88 


The sprawling destination is also a historical and cultural 

gem in Slovenia built on the source of some of the healthiest 

water in Europe. It even has it’s own museum showcasing 

it’s rich history which reads like a historical thriller filled with 

nobility and ever a few scoundrels. We also had our most 

entertaining and memorable meals here which will be chronicled 

in the next edition of the magazine in part 2 of Discover 

Slovenia. https://www.rimske-terme.si/en/ 


GRAND UNION HOTEL, LJUBLJANA 

We could see why the Grand Union Hotel is the go 

to place in Ljubljana for business folks, meeting 

and conventions. The meeting and banquet rooms 

are beautiful as is the historic facade of the main hotel. We 

stayed in the business section of the hotel which has its own 

lobby and front desk trained to take care of busy executives 

and upscale travelers. The staff here is first rate, responding 

to every request, including securing the free electric shuttles 

that will take you to any location within the old town walking 

district. 

The Grand Union’s new restaurant, Atelje Restaurant and bar, 

is about as far from the traditional hotel dining room as you 

can get. It has the feel of a hip upscale eatery in New York or 

San Francisco. Lots of wood, lights and a comfortably casual 

rustic decor make diners feel relaxed as they feast on some 

very sophisticated yet deceptively simple fusion dishes featuring 

local produce, meats and fish. 

The slightly charred octopus I had was the most flavorful and 

tender I’ve expereinced. The staff was polished yet friendly 

and recommended some great local wines. The young chef, 

Jorg Zupan, shown on the right is known as one of the best 

in Slovenia and I suspect his name will be known to foodies 

around the world very soon. http://www.union-hotels.eu/en/ 

grand-hotel-union/ 

90 



HOTEL JAMA, POSTOJNA 

The completely refurbished Hotel Jama, is a first rate 

hotel located in the heart of the Postojna Cave Park, is a 

perfect choice for visitors to Postojna Cave and Predjama 

Castle. It’s an easy walk from the cave entrance. Our room 

was modern and spacious and had a great view of the Alpine 

countryside. We had one of our best meals in the restaurant, 

not always the case in hotels, but in Slovenia, good restaurants 

with amazing wine lists seem to be the norm. https://www. 

postojnska-jama.eu/ 

92 



GARDEN VILLAGE, BLED 

We were just a little concerned when we were told that our first night in 

Slovenia would be in a tent. We have been Glamping before – once 

in Jordan and another at the Pushkar Camel Festival in India. It didn’t 

work out so well then, but once we saw our tent we knew that all would be well. It 

was the most fun accommodation of the trip and as comfortable as any hotel we 

stayed at. 

The tent had two sleeping areas, a dining room, and living room with a couch and 

flat screened TV, a modern bath and two showers. Just outside the tent was a covered 

porch and a wooden hot tub. The breakfast at the cafe was great and the bar 

had a nice wine list with very affordable Slovenian wines by the bottle and glass. 

https://gardenvillagebled.com/ 

94 



HOTEL MANGART, BOVEC 

Slovenia has accommodations for almost every pocketbook. The Hotel Mangart is 

kind of an upscale Best Western with comfortable rooms and a great breakfast. The 

view from our balcony as seen on the right was amazing. It’s a wonderfully affordable 

place to hang your hat, fishing pole, skis or your kayak for two or three days of outdoor fun 

along the river Soča. http://www.hotel-mangart.com/ 

96 



HOTEL KEMPINSKI PALACE, PORTOROZ 

I 

guess if it good enough for Yul Brynner, and Orson 

Welles, it good enough for me. That trio and many more 

celebrities call this place home since it opened in 1910. 

The hotel lives up to its reputation of pampering guests 

with professional friendly service and first-rate ambiance 

from the formal gardens just yards from the Adriatic to 

the beautifully appointed rooms with views to Croatia. It’s 

a real five star hotel for those who only want the best – 

pricy for Slovenia, but not for the rest of Europe. A wonderful 

place to setup camp to visit Piran and the surrounding 

wine country villages. https://www.kempinski.com/en/ 

istria/palace-portoroz/ 

98 



WINING AND DINING SLOVENIAN 

STYLE 

DISCOVERING SLOVENIA PART 2 

COMING THIS FALL 

100 WDT MAGAZINE SPRING 2017




A VIET NAM POSTSCRIPT 

A SAN DIEGO RADIO MAVERICK SEARCHES FOR A COUNTRY’S SOUL 

Story & Photography by Stacy Taylor 

Waves of goose-stepping 

soldiers and boastful 

displays of missile 

launchers, as we 

recently witnessed in Pyongyang? Glum 

internal-security apparatchiks keeping a 

watchful eye on anything non-conforming? 

A grim population of robotic drones, 

their shoulders to the wheel, grinding 

out 12 hours workdays? A stark unavailability 

of consumer goods? 

Actually, none of those clichés turned 

out to be reality. No soldiers, few cops, a 

friendly, albeit reserved, population, and 

stores, galleries, and boutiques dealing 

in luxury goods. In the center of Saigon 

is a 5-story shopping mall, named Saigon 

Centre, “your fashion destination”, that 

makes the Century City Mall in L.A. look 

like a flea market. 

In the southern coastal area, the beaches 

are lined with high-end resorts, mostly 

catering to European tourists, fancy, 

French-inspired restaurants, and beachfront 

Tiki bars, along with the quaint 

fishing villages you would expect to see. 

Mui Ne beach, near the fishing town of 

Phan Thiet, is the kite surfing capital of 

the world. Yes, commies kite surf. 

Most of the tourists I bumped into in the 

more affordable beach areas were Russians 

, by and large a dour and humorless 

lot, clad in their uniforms of tanktops, 

baggy shorts, and rubber flip flop 

sandals, swilling beer and vodka from 

mid-morning on. 

The streets are alive with motor bikes and 

shoppers on the streets of Saigon. 


“In the southern coastal area, the beaches are 

lined with high-end resorts, mostly catering to 

European tourists...” 


Very casual dning at a Vietnam Home 

Restaurant, in Mui Ne. 


“...menu that offered up grilled cobra, marinated 

ostrich, crocodile, fried lizard, curried 

sea eel...” 

The high end resorts were populated 

mostly by slender, fashionable 

Asians, sipping Mojitos and taking 

selfies. The locals were concentrated in 

nearby fishing coves, mending their nets 

and selling their catch, or drying anchovies 

in the sun in preparation for the production 

of their famous fish sauce, nước mắm 

. 

Apparently the South China Sea, unlike 

the oceans off the coast of the United 

States, are still fertile with sea life. In Mui 

Ne, locals and tourists have their choice of 

dozens of seafood restaurants, all serving 

fresh catch, creatively prepared Vietnam/ 

French style, in hot pots, wrapped in banana 

leaves, pan fried, raw, or steamed. 

One local restaurant where I dined one 

evening, Vietnam Home, had a menu 

that offered up grilled cobra, marinated 

ostrich, crocodile, fried lizard, curried sea 

eel, and barracuda, in addition to the more 

mundane dishes like fried snapper. The 

atmosphere at Vietnam Home was, to say 

the least, “casual. 

Residents of Ho Chi Minh City still refer 

to it as Saigon, and the old, ornate French 

architecture co-exists alongside shiny new 

high-rises. The streets are teeming with 

motor scooters and pedestrians. In fact, 

there was little on display, either culturally 

or economically, that screamed “communism”. 

Marijuana is openly sold and 

smoked on the side streets and, at night, 

young Vietnamese hipsters pack the bars 

and discos. 

There is the Ben Thanh central market 

(cleaner and more orderly than similar 

ones found in Latin America), along with 

a few other reminders of Vietnam’s 2nd 

world status. 


“ After all, it was my generation and my 

country that shredded and incinerated 

their country...” 

Aside from the Gothic and Romanesque 

architecture, some of the remaining 

vestiges of the French occupation include 

hundreds of little open-air coffee shops, 

family owned and operated, along with 

lots of food stalls selling ham-and-cheese 

baguette sandwiches, known locally as 

bánh mì . Yes, there is also Pho. I did 

not sample it. I would prefer to imagine 

it better than the chicken soup version 

available in the states. 

Aside from trying to wrap my mind 

around abstractions like “communism”, “socialism” 

and “planned economy”, I obsessed 

a bit on the war and what thoughts the 

Vietnamese people harbored when confronting 

American tourists. After all, it was 

my generation and my country that shredded 

and incinerated their country, while 

dispatching 2 million souls in the process. 

I did visit the War Remnants Museum, 

originally called the The Exhibition House 

For Crimes of War and Aggression ( the 

name altered as part of the 1995 deal that 

allowed trade between the U.S. and Vietnam). 

There was still a pavilion devoted to 

American war crimes, that included dozens 

of enlarged photos of the aftermath of the 

My Lai massacre and the effects of agent 

orange. While viewing the depressing exhibits, 

the Dylan song A Hard Rains Gonna 

Fall kept looping in my brain. It was, to say 

the least, a sobering experience. 

The only conversation about the war I had 

in Vietnam was with a Mekong Delta tour 

guide who spoke decent English. He took 


Left to right: Fishermen working their nets 

in Mui Ne; Father and son on their scooter: 

Display of weapons of war at the War Remnants 

Museum. 

a somewhat sanguine approach to the war, 

suggesting that neither the U.S. combatants 

nor the Vietnamese resistance had much 

choice in the matter. He told me about his 

father, a “collaborator” who had provided 

some kind of conveyance service to Americans 

in Saigon, but then fled in fear when 

the Army of North Vietnam triumphantly 

entered the city in 1975. He died of cancer 

after 9 years of exile in the Soviet Union, 

never seeing his family again. 

Meanwhile, all I could think about was a 

tidbit from history. Ho Chi Minh was a 

notorious admirer of America’s revolutionary 

history and practically begged the U.S. 

to merely recognize his revolution, unsuccessfully 

of course. When he drew up the 

constitution for the new country he would 

ultimately lead, this was the preamble: 

“We hold these truths to be self-evident, 

that all men are created equal, that they 

are endowed, by their Creator, with 

certain unalienable Rights, that among 

these are Life, Liberty, and the pursuit of 

Happiness.” 

It has taken centuries of war and occupation, 

first by the Chinese, then by the 

French and the United States, and years 

of recriminations, re-education camps, 

and purges, but my feeling is that Vietnam 

is finally approaching the ideal.embedded 

in those famous words. 


The Magic of Losinj 

CROATIA’S FEEL-GOOD ISLAND 

It’s one of the most photographed sites in 

the Southern Caribbean and the Grenadines, 

Tobago Cays. 

110 


Story & Photography by 

Alison DaRosa 

Colorful shops on the harbor at Veli 

Losinj. Top: Even the yachting set 

must deal with real-life laundry. At Ilovik 

harbor. 

Back in the late 19th century, 

when the Austro-Hungarian 

Empire was one of the 

world’s great powers, rulers 

set out to find the healthiest, most restorative, 

feel-good spot in the land. 

Scientists’ pursuit of perfect climate 

and pristine environment led them to 

Losinj, an island in the northern Adriatic, 

about 30 miles off the coast of what is 

now Croatia. 

“This perfect climatological 

stew leaves 

Losinj with 300 days 

of sunshine and the 

warmest average 

temperature of any 

town at its latitude...” 

They discovered that a warm Southern 

Mediterranean sea current hugs the 

island. It has a positive impact on everything 

that grows here – which in turn 

helps produce the island’s exceptional 

air quality. This perfect climatological 

stew leaves Losinj with 300 days of 

sunshine and the warmest average 

temperature of any town at its latitude: 

75.2 degrees. 


By 1892, after a flurry of visits and studies, a national ordinance declared 

the destination the official health resort of the realm. Within 

a few years, Viennese aristocracy built villas and holiday homes 

here – retreats for themselves and their families, others for their 

mistresses. Many of these structures remain – serving today as 

5-star inns and restaurants for the mostly European tourist trade. 

During a week on Losinj this spring, the only Americans I found 

were the friends I’d traveled with. 

What I found in abundance was crystal-clear air, gorgeous scenery, 

storied history and culture, exquisite food and wines, 5-star accommodations, 

luxurious spa treatments – and warm, welcoming 

locals eager to share the bounty of their island with visitors. 

Croatia claims at least 1,185 islands, islets and reefs in the Adriatic; 

just 47 are inhabited. Losinj (pronounced low-sheen) sits 

in the Northern Adriatic’s Kvarner Gulf, embraced by the Istrian 

Peninsula to the northwest and the Croatian mainland on the 

112 


east. It’s about 21 miles long and three miles wide – with a 

population of about 11,000. 

Its gentle sub-Mediterranean climate works wonders for the 

local flora: More than a thousand species of plants grow on 

the island – including 230 aromatic and medicinal herbs. 

Most plants are native and grow wild – but some species 

were imported by sea captains who roamed the world back 

when Losinj was a ship-building hub and its merchant fleet 

rivaled even the merchant fleet of Venice. Pine forests are 

everywhere – thanks to visionary environmentalist and stillrevered 

climatologist Ambroz Haračić, who in the 1880s started 

the Losinj Afforestation Society, which planted hundreds 

of thousands of evergreens, mostly Aleppo pines, sequoias, 

juniper and cypress, throughout the island. 

For citified visitors, the simple act of breathing is a pleasure 

on Losinj. Inhale a bouquet of rosemary, lavender, sage, laurel, 

“Croatia claims 1,185 islands, islets and 

reefs in the Adriatic; just 47 are inhabited. 

Losinj (pronounced low-sheen) sits 

in the Northern Adriatic’s Kvarner Gulf...” 

Bike riders enjoying the view of the harbor 

at Veli Losinj. 

WINEDINEANDTRAVEL.COM 

113

myrtle, immortelle and wild roses. Savor the scents of lemon, 

fig, orange, mandarin, olive and loquat trees. Add pines, 

palms, pomegranates. 

Margan-Sulc pointed to studies she says prove that a stay of 

11 days, on average, can improve lung function for those with 

pulmonary disorders. 

“There’s more biodiversity on this island than there is in all of 

England,” said Dr. Anamarija Margan-Sulc, an internist at the 

island’s Marine Medical Center. “There’s always something 

in bloom here; gardens blossom with 80 kinds of tropical 

flowers. Plus you have the salt air of the sea – salt air that is 

infused by droplets of essential oils. It is why for so many 

years, people are coming here to heal, to breathe with their full 

lungs.” 

I spent hours luxuriating in the tranquility of Losinj. My home 

was Hotel Bellevue on Cikat Bay, a sheltered inlet where the 

seeds of today’s 5-star tourism were planted 125 years ago. 

I savored solo walks along the bayfront promenade where 

archduke Franz Ferdinand once strolled, where Hapsburg 

Emperor Franz Joseph I built Villa Karolina for his mistress. I 

walked in early evening, as the setting sun’s golden glow dappled 

pebbly coves, burnished bows of bobbing boats, warmed 

the breeze that ruffled the pines of Cikat Forest Park. I’d 

114 


walk to Cape Annunziata where I said a silent prayer at the 

church of the Annunciation of the Blessed Virgin Mary, built 

in 1534, enlarged in 1858. It’s where generations of seafarers 

were sent off and welcomed back home – a place of joy 

and tears. As the daughter of a sea captain, I felt a personal 

connection to the place. 

When I wasn’t vegging on Losinj, I was exploring. 

First I nailed a quick primer on the island’s recent history: 

Through much of the 19th century, Losinj was one of the 

Hotel Bellevue on Cikat Bay,. Opposite 

top: The many flowers at Ilovik. Oppostie: 

A team of chefs take a few minutes to 

sample a vintage wine before the Chateau 

Mouton Rothschild wine-pairing dinner at 

Hotel Alhambra’s Restaurant Alfred Keller. 


116 


usiest seaports in Europe – at one 

time, home to 11 shipyards and 400 sea 

captains. The island remained part of 

the Austro-Hungarian Empire until the 

end of World War I, when the Treaty of 

Rapallo gave it to Italy. After World War 

II, it was incorporated into Yugoslavia. 

In 1991, it became part of present-day 

independent Croatia. 

The island was untouched during Croatia’s 

war for independence, said guide 

Damir Badurina. Only the colors of 

towns changed – from shades of gray 

to pastels. 

A short walk from Cikat Bay, Mali Losinj 

is the island’s largest town. It still has a 

Maritime Academy where young people 

can learn to become sea captains – but 

today’s graduates will most likely skipper 

private yachts and tour boats that 

line the docks of the bay. Mali’s harbor 

is edged with outdoor cafes and shops 

where tourists sample olive oils and local 

honey. Children skip rope in the town 

square. Hills are terraced with red tile 

roofs of gracious homes once owned by 

sea captains – passed down to greatgrandchildren 

who run pirate-themed 

excursion boats or ice cream parlors. 

The Museum of Apoxyomenos is one of 

Mali Losinj’s proudest achievements. It’s 

dedicated entirely to an ancient Greek 

statue discovered in 1996, just off the 

Losinj coast – where it had rested for 

about 2,000 years. If you missed seeing 

the ancient bronze when it visited 

the Getty or the Louvre, don’t miss it in 

its home. The sculpture depicts the timeless 

beauty of a young male athlete’s 

nude body – and the museum is a contemporary 

love letter to that perfectly 

preserved treasure. 

Veli Losinj is a colorful seafront village 

on the southeast end of island. The 

town dates to the 13th century – and, 

like Mali, was home to generations of 

boat builders and seafarers. Its baroque 

Basilica of St. Anthony, rebuilt in the late 

Above: A sea captain in Mali Losinj is happy to 

greet a visitor. 

Left: ‘Late afternoon sun reflects on Cikat Bay. 


18th century, remains the heart of the community – but the best 

views are from the town’s 15th century Tower Museum. 

Losinj’s closest island neighbor, just to the north, is Cres (pronunciation 

is subtle and sibilant, try ‘stress’ with a rolling t). Cres 

and Losinj were one island until Roman times, when shipbuilders 

carved a canal splitting them. The 36-foot-wide canal remains, 

with a rotating bridge connecting the islands. 

Cres is more than five times the size of Losinj – but with less 

than half the population. It’s more rugged, with rolling hills covered 

in scrub, rather than pines. Settlement began here as long 

as 12,000 years ago. 

We spent an entire day exploring the island – and oh what 

118 


Above: Traditional “”peka” at. Veli Zal restaurant 

on Losinj 

Opposite: . Marta Kuljanic showing off her 

sheepskin. 


Dinner at Konoba Cigale on Cikat Bay: Perfectly 

grilled sea bass on a bed of light pesto risotto - 

with a berry strudel dessert. 

a day: We visited an herbs distillery run for 33 years by 

Gverino and Irena Kucic – tasting everything from olive 

oils to lemoncello and local honey. We bought small jars 

of immortelle face cream, hoping to recreate the glow that 

emanated from the faces of so many island women. 

In the ancient village of Lubenice, perched on a bluff 

high above the Adriatic, we counted six Roman Catholic 

churches among the rocky ruins – and only five full-time 

residents. Natives Marta and Maria Kuljanic presented soft 

white sheep skins for sale. Nearby, we tried on woolen 

hats offered by the man who made them from scratch 

– starting with spinning the wool. A few miles away, at 

a small restaurant called TRS, we sat outdoors under awnings 

shaded by an enormous fig tree. Owner/chef/waiter 

Ante Muzic fed us lamb from his own farm, prepared three 

traditional ways. When we told him how much we enjoyed 

the feast, his homemade wine and olive oil, he sprinted to 

his cellar and honored us by bringing out his really, really 

good stuff. 

“Zivjeli,” we toasted our host. Pronounced jee-via-lee, it 

means “Cheers, life is beautiful.” 

At days end, while we waited for the rotating bridge to 

span the canal separating Cres and Losinj, we roamed the 

cobblestone historic heart of Osor. We walked medieval 

Roman ruins as bells chimed from a 15th century cathedral. 

At the town’s archaeology museum, we inspected myriad 

household artifacts dating back 4,000 years through the 

Middle Ages, all unearthed on the island. At the small 

café out front, locals focused on more immediate fare: the 

town’s annual summer classic music festival. 

Jadranka, for 70 years the leading tourism company on 

Losinj, operates everything from campgrounds to private 

luxury villas. It owns eight hotels, seven restaurants, 15 


yachts and three planes. Arranging an outing on the turquoise 

waters of the Kvarner Gulf was as easy as phoning 

the Bellevue’s front desk. 

The captain of our 45-foot sailboat motored along limestone 

shelves that skirt Losinj, noting points of interest 

– including a nude beach. He offered us secluded coves 

with crystal clear water for swimming. When we’d worked 

up an appetite, he docked at Ilovik, the “Island of Flowers,” 

just south of Losinj. Our appetizers were sweet ripe 

loquats we plucked from trees, mulberries we picked from 

vines. At Dalmatinka restaurant on the harbor, we dined 

family style on fresh-from-the-bay turbot baked with veggies 

picked that morning from the chef’s garden. Dessert 

was sweet thin pastry slathered in skuta – a ricotta-like 

cheese made from sheep’s milk, an island specialty. 

We were back at Hotel Bellevue that afternoon in time for 

spa treatments. After a hot-stone massage that had me 

drooling on the sheets, I settled in for a soothing facial. If 

it weren’t for the irresistible lure of being outdoors, inhaling 

Losinj, I’d have spent every afternoon cocooned in the 

Bellevue’s Spa Zone. It’s the ultimate rabbit hole for free 

pampering treats: addictive “experience” showers that 

change colors and rhythms and are infused with scent, a 

trio of saunas, relaxation rooms outfitted with warm stone 

recliners and waterbeds… 

But I wanted more. As I and so many others have discovered 

over the past century, the real magic of Losinj – the 

transformation that heals body and mind – happens 

outdoors. It happens during late-afternoon walks. Or while 

sitting with new friends at a seaside café, sipping herb-infused 

Croatian brandy. It happens as the nightingale sings 

and the sickle moon dances on the tide. Just inhale. Fill up 

your lungs. It happens. 


IF YOU GO 

Getting there: The easiest way to get to Losinj is by private 

plane arranged by the Jadranka Group. Flights are available 

from most European airports. Fares start about $400 for up to 

three passengers flying one way from Pula on Croatia’s Istria 

peninsula. Double the fare for the six-passenger plane. 

Ground transfers from various Croatian airports to Losinj, 

which include a van for up to eight passengers, a driver and 

ferry tickets, start at about $220 one way from the Rijeka 

Airport. It’s about $325 from Zagreb. 

Staying there: Hotel Bellevue, overlooking Cikat Bay, is 

TripAdvisor’s number one rated among 13 hotels on Losinj. 

It reopened three years ago after a major redo. Today there 

are 185 rooms, 21 suites, three dining venues and a luxurious 

27,000-square-foot spa. Rooms for two start at about $270 

a night, including 

a lavish breakfast 

for two. 

Steps from the 

Bellevue, the 

Boutique Hotel 

Alhambra is all 

about small-scale 

luxury. Designed 

as a Villa in 1912 by 

leading Austrian 

architect Alfred 

Keller, it was completely 

renovated 

in 2015 and is 

now a member of 

prestigious Small 

Luxury Hotels of 

the World. There 

are 51 rooms, two 

restaurants and a 

full-service spa. Service is white-gloves, but not stuffy. Rates 

start at about $450 a night including breakfast for two. 

Vitality Hotel Punta in Veli Losinj is a family oriented complex 

with 289 guest rooms, indoor and outdoor pools, tennis 

courts and a full-service spa. The hotel was built in the ‘60s, 

renovated in 2014. Rooms for two start at about $150 a night, 

including breakfast. 

Villa Hortensia on Cikat Bay dates to the Austro-Hungarian 

era – but inside its 10 bedrooms (and 10 baths) are ultra contemporary. 

There’s an indoor sauna, whirlpool and fitness studio 

– plus an outdoor pool filled with heated seawater. There’s 

a 10-person staff – including a chef and kitchen crew to 

prepare and serve all your meals, which are included with your 

stay. Rates range from $7,800 to $10,000 a night, depending 

on the number of guests. 

Most hotels offer multi-day health and fitness packages. Get 

more info about Losinj lodging at www.Losinj-hotels.com. 

Dining there: The island’s rich natural setting provides the basis 

for its healthy Mediterranean-style cuisine. Seafood, olive 

oil and fresh herbs are staples of most menus. Locally raised 

lamb dishes are popular. There are plenty of moderately 

priced seafront restaurants. Among my favorites: 

Veli Zal, where we shared “peka” family style. It’s a traditional 

Croatian dish: just-caught skarpina (a cod-like fish) slowcooked 

in a clay pot with potatoes, carrots, fennel, onions, 

garlic and olive oil. 

At Konoba Cigale, 

where we dined 

under the stars, 

savoring shrimp 

tartar, perfectly 

grilled sea bass 

on a bed of light 

pesto risotto and 

a dessert of berry 

strudel with ice 

cream, we decided 

the experience deserved 

an encore. 

It was just as good 

on our second 

visit. 

Restaurant Alfred 

Keller at Boutique 

Hotel Alhambra, 

is recognized by Gault & Millau as one of the best restaurants 

in the world. It’s known for its haute cuisine, extensive wine 

list, wine-pairing dinners and MasterClass events featuring 

some of the most important vintners in the world. I joined a 

class led by Herve Gouin from Chateau Mouton Rothschild. 

He introduced us to a dozen or so Rothschild vintages. Later 

I savored an exquisite six-course dinner paired with some of 

the wines we’d tasted that afternoon. Extraordinary. Winepairing 

dinners at Alfred Keller can run $350-$400 per person, 

depending on the winesv served. 

Learn more about travel to Losinj at http://visitlosinj. 

hr/?lang=en-GB 

122 


Above: Dining on Adriatic tuna on the 

outdoor terrace at Hotel Bellevue.


HOLIDAYS 

New Orleans’ Style 

Story & Photos by Priscilla Lister 

No destination makes my mouth water as much as “The Queen City of the South.” 

And there is no better time to visit New Orleans 

for its characteristic cuisine than the December 

holidays. During that month, more than 50 of this 

food city’s great restaurants celebrate the season 

with reveillon dinner menus that offer special multi-course 

feasts. 

“Reveillon dinners date from the Creole era in the mid-19th 

century — the city’s apex before the Civil War,” said Patti 

Nickell, my friend and traveling companion who lived here for 

25 years until Hurricane Katrina pushed her out. We had come 

to New Orleans with our mutual friend, Patricia Harris, to toast 

the season in one of our favorite destinations. 

The name of the special dinner is based on the French word 

“reveil,” meaning “waking.” It refers to the French Creole tradition 

of feasting after midnight mass on Christmas Eve, following 

that day of fasting. 

124 


Left to right; The season is sparkling at 

Royal Sonesta Hotel in the French Quarter; 

Ron at Arnaud’s prepares Cafe Brulot, a 

coffee/brandy concoction that is the best 

way to end a meal at New Orleans’ classic 

Creole restaurants.; Jackson Square is ready 

for the holidays 

“ During that month, more than 50 of this food city’s great restaurants celebrate 

the season with reveillon dinner menus that offer special multi-course feasts.” 

“Some 98 percent of New Orleans in that era was Catholic,” 

Nickell told us. “The feast after Christmas Eve mass was a 

way to give thanks, while the second reveillon on New Year’s 

Eve was just to party.” 

New Orleans does that really well anytime. 

But add this culinary twist to the holiday decorations that 

festoon virtually every hotel lobby and wrought-iron balcony 

here and you have found a splendid sweet spot to celebrate 

the season. 

Patti, Pat and I split our time between two French Quarter 

hotels. 

First, we checked into Maison Dupuy on Toulouse at Burgundy 

in a quiet residential section of the French Quarter. 

Built in 1973, it was the last hotel to be built in the historic 


“...classic Creole dishes — creamy sauces, 

fresh seafood and rich desserts define 

New Orleans’ cuisine...” 

quarter since future hotel development 

was banned in 1975. Maison Dupuy 

combined five brick townhouses, all 

centered on the French Quarter’s largest 

courtyard — a classic design element in 

homes here. This charming courtyard 

becomes a neighborhood gathering 

spot once a month when local craftspeople 

and cocktails combine to raise 

funds for local charities — we were there 

for the lighting of the Christmas tree all 

benefiting the Salvation Army. (www. 

maisondupuy.com.) 

Then we moved to Hotel Le Marais, 

on Conti between Bourbon and Royal 

streets, an upscale boutique hotel that 

recently remodeled itself to be the 

most up-to-date in the French Quarter. 

This is a modern hotel with touches 

of old-world charm where every staff 

person becomes your friend. That 

welcome cocktail of choice on check-in 

sets the Big Easy tone from the get-go. 

Conde Nast readers in 2016 put Hotel 

Le Marais among the top four hotels in 

New Orleans, “one of the rare boutique 

hotels that manages to at once evoke 

the charming, old-world essence of the 

Big Easy, all while reminding guests 

it’s set firmly in the modern age (gratis 

Wi-Fi, heated saltwater pool).” (www. 

hotellemarais.com.) 

Both French Quarter hotels made walking 

our preferred mode of transportation. 

We could easily amble to most of 

our restaurants of choice as well as our 

sites of leisure activities, which naturally 

included some holiday shopping. 

The French Quarter is loaded with 

kitschy souvenir shops or even those 

fabled voodoo emporiums. But stroll 

down Royal Street and you’ll find some 

Galatoire’s, one of the city’s longtime 

beloved Creole classics, held an auction the 

week we were there for locals who wanted 

to secure a table for New Year’s Eve. 

126 


of the most gorgeous estate jewelry 

you’ve ever seen as well as silver serving 

pieces, porcelain sculpture and 

dinnerware, glassware and antique 

furnishings that belie this city’s grandest 

aspirations over its 300 years. 

If you have time for only one such shop, 

find Keil’s Antiques at 325 Royal Street. 

A family firm since 1899, Keil’s is literally 

“a treasure house of antiques” that had 

my jaw dropping with desire over marble 

mantels, chandeliers, silver mustard 

pots and, especially, some truly beautiful, 

one-of-a-kind pieces of jewelry. You 

could make your special someone very 

happy here. 

New Orleans restaurants were about to 

make us very happy, too. 

Reveillon dinners have always been 

luxurious and decadent — feasts after 

the fast, after all. The Creole tradition fell 

out of favor among families here in the 

1900s, partly because these extravagant 

meals are harder to prepare. “Local restaurants 

decided to bring back the tradition 

about 25 years ago,” Nickell told us. 

“It started with the old Creole restaurants, 

but now it’s offered throughout 

the whole city.” 

The classic Creole dishes — creamy 

sauces, fresh seafood and rich desserts 

that define New Orleans’ cuisine — inspire 

today’s reveillon menus, but each 

restaurant puts its own modern twists 

on them. 

We made our first foray into this culinary 

ritual at Tujague’s, the city’s secondoldest 

(after Antoine’s) restaurant that’s 

been a locals’ favorite for 150 years. The 

first course offered a choice of oysters 

en brochette, crispy bacon-wrapped 

Louisiana oysters on garlic crostini, 

topped with creole meuniere sauce; 

marinated crab claws salad; or crawfish 

and goat cheese crepes served with a 

chardonnay creole cream. 

The second course was a truly classic 

NOLA dish, Creole Turtle Soup. 

The third course offered a choice of 

filet mignon with Yukon gold mashed 

Top: The classic courtyard at the historic 

Williams’ residence in the French Quarter, 

one of several historic homes open for 

touring. Below: Strolling the streets of the 

French Quarter never gets old. 


The Crab & Green Papaya Remoulade at Brennan’s features New 

Orleans-grown green papaya with Louisiana jumbo lump crab with a 

satsuma dressing. 

Right: Sarah Arceneaux, floor captain and sommelier at Brennan’s, 

prepares Crepes Fitzgerald table side. They’re flambeed twice with 

local praline liqueur as well as Maker’s Mark bourbon. 

potatoes and broccoli; chicken Pontalba, a breast served on 

a bed of Brabant potatoes with Neuske ham, green onions 

and mushrooms, topped with bearnaise sauce; pan-sauteed 

Puppy Drum, a white fish topped with Louisiana jumbo 

lump crab and beurre blanc; or grilled double-cut pork chop 

topped with Steen’s cane apple glaze, served with roasted 

sweet potatoes and Swiss chard. (www.tujagues.com.) 

Dessert offered a choice of white chocolate bread 

pudding with bourbon caramel sauce or Madagascar vanilla 

bean creme brûlée. 

After dinner at Tujague’s on Decatur Street, walk 

several blocks east to the connecting Frenchmen Street in 

the adjacent Faubourg Marigny neighborhood where some 

of New Orleans’ best music clubs reside. Check out The 

Spotted Cat, Apple Barrel or The Blue Nile. 

Also on Frenchmen Street (619 Frenchmen) is the 

Frenchmen Art Market, NOLA’s only weekly nighttime art 

market that offers original art, jewelry and crafts by local and 

regional artists — another good shopping destination during 

the holidays. This market opens Thursdays-Mondays from 7 

p.m. to 1 a.m. (Sundays from 6 p.m. to midnight). 

The next morning, we walked to Brennan’s, one of 

the city’s most famous restaurants where Bananas Foster 

began and where breakfast became another celebratory 

meal in this city. The restaurant was closed for a few years 

128 


Patrick Brennan, sous chef at Brennan’s, 

continues his family traditions. 

for an extensive renovation before reopening in 2014. It is 

absolutely splendid today, the epitome of New Orleans’ 

ambience and architecture that combines classic old-world 

elegance with plenty of fanciful touches, like the whimsical 

murals of the Mardi Gras Proteus Parade of 1895. (www.brennansneworleans.com.) 

This lovely old pink building was originally built in 

1795 by the great grandfather of Edgar Degas, once housed 

Louisiana State Bank, and was a private residence frequented 

by President Andrew Jackson. Today its eight glamorous 

dining rooms are not only frequented for breakfast, but are 

favored for private parties, weddings and plenty of Mardi 

Gras festivity. 

We breakfasted in the Chanteclair Room, the main 

dining room that is “a fantasy interpretation of a French Orangerie 

(that) holds hands with the courtyard through a spectacular 

wall of glass,” says interior designer Keith Langham of 

his favorite room at Brennan’s. 


Co-owner Ralph Brennan, nephew of Brennan’s original 

founder, Owen Brennan, has worked here since he was 14, he 

told us in that gorgeous dining room. “This is a special place 

for my family and we continue that tradition.” His daughter, 

Kathryn, works up front, and son Patrick, a CIA Greystone 

Napa graduate, is sous chef in the kitchen. “Patrick started at 

9 at Redfish Grill and has been in the kitchen ever since,” said 

his proud papa. 

Slade Rushing is Brennan’s acclaimed chef. He told me that 

my choice of omelette “is simplicity at its best,” this version 

adorned by sautéed shrimp, chives, tarragon, chervil and 

creme fraiche, “very elegant.” 

Eggs Sardou featured fried artichoke hearts topped with 

creamed spinach, poached egg and choron sauce, which is 

like a tomato hollandaise. Eggs Hussarde, “one of my favorite 

dishes,” said Slade, presents poached eggs on housemade 

Brennan’s Eggs Sardou featuring poached 

beauties atop crispy artichokes, Parmesan 

creamed spinach and choron sauce. 


English muffins with coffee-cured Canadian bacon, hollandaise 

and marchand de vin sauce. 

Bananas Foster, of course, may be de rigeur to follow, but 

we tried Crepes Fitzgerald, another Brennan’s original that 

features crepes stuffed with seasonal fruit. This holiday season’s 

version featured a stuffing of pumpkin and praline with 

cream cheese brûlée. Like Bananas Foster, Crepes Fitzgerald 

is flambeed twice with a local praline liqueur and Maker’s Mark 

bourbon. 

To walk off some of this indulgence, I sought historic homes 

to tour, also expecting some holiday decorations to adorn 

them. I was not disappointed. 

First I found the Historic New Orleans Collection on Royal 

Street, which includes a museum of Louisiana history and art 

and the former home of General and Mrs. L. Kemper Williams. 

Tours here began in the 1970s. 

“The Williams acquired this 1792 Spanish Creole building 

in 1938,” my docent, Kurt Owens, told me. “They completely 

restored it and lived here for 20 years. The Vieux Carre wasn’t 

always romantic,” he said about the French Quarter, “In the 

early 20th century, it was poor and run down. The Williams 

bought and restored this home and encouraged others to 

restore properties in the Quarter.” Their dedication is a primary 

reason the French Quarter is so beloved today. 

At the Gallier Historic House, also on Royal, Michael Mae, our 

docent and architectural historian, regaled us with stories of 

life in the 1860 Greek Revival home. 

Gallier was a famed architect who designed New Orlean’s 

French Opera House (which no longer stands). He built this 

home for himself, his wife and four daughters. He died here 

in 1868, while his wife died here in 1906 and one their daughters 

died here in 1909. After subsequent owners, the home 

was turned into a museum in 1974. “Creoles didn’t like closets 

because there was no air and clothes would mildew, so they 

The courtyard at Brennan’s is one of the 

city’s prettiest for fair weather dining. 


elied on armoires,” Mae told us. “They kept clothes wrapped 

in peppercorn and vetiver and tobacco leaves to keep them 

from mildew and moths.” Gallier was so ahead of his time, he 

invented ceiling vents and this home had indoor plumbing in 

1860. 

The Gallier House is operated by the Women’s Exchange, a 

group formed in 1881 after the Civil War to provide a place for 

war widows to sell their handmade goods anonymously. The 

Women’s Exchange also owns and operates the Hermann- 

Grima Historic House, on St. Louis. The Hermann-Grima house 

preserves life here as it was during the 1800s. (The Hermann- 

Grima and Gallier Historic Houses, www.hgghh.org.). I will 

never forget the story of its ice house, where they stored huge 

chunks of ice that had been carved from glaciers in Canada 

and barged all the way down the Mississippi River to New 

Orleans. 

132 

Redfish Bienville at Tableau, with friseefingerling 

potato salad and blue crab butter 

sauce. 


Top left: An appetizer sampler from Tableau: 

Shrimp Remoulade “Bloody Mary,” 

Fried Oysters Maison with rosemary bacon 

jam, Truffled Crab Fingers, and Crabmeat 

Ravigote on cucumber with lemon aioli.

Dinner was another extravaganza at Dickie 

Brennan’s Tableau, the newest restaurant in 

Dickie Brennan’s stable. Located on Jackson 

Square, Tableau showcases classic French 

creole dishes with a twist — “sophisticated yet 

true to tradition.” The open kitchen provides 

some of its own theater, while next door is Le 

Petit Theatre. 

Tableau features a different reveillon menu 

during each of its December nights, which you 

can find closer to the event on its website, www. 

tableaufrenchquarter.com. 

But I’ll share a few of the taste treats we enjoyed. 

For starters, we loved the shrimp remoulade 

“Bloody Mary,” which showcased Gulf shrimp 

with pickled vegetables in a bloody mary 

vinaigrette, and the crabmeat ravigote, which 

featured local jumbo lump crabmeat with chow 

chow, cucumber and lemon aioli on lavash. 

For a main course, steak, pork chops and veal 

are on offer as is a charred cauliflower steak 

or barbecued shrimp and grits . But I went for 

the pan-roasted redfish Bienville, a fine white 

redfish with frisee-fingerling potato salad and a 

blue crab butter sauce. 

One day we ventured out of town for a truly 

transporting experience. We drove a little more 

than an hour to the Houmas House Plantation 

and Gardens, “The Crown Jewel of Louisiana’s 

River Road.” 

Louisiana’s Great Mississippi River Road is 

a corridor about 70 miles long on each side 

of the river between Baton Rouge and New 

Orleans. Here are the state’s most famous 

monumental plantation houses, most built by 

wealthy sugar plantation owners in the Greek 

Revival Style. The National Park Service has a 

map, itinerary and list of sites on Louisana’s 

River Road, www.nps.gov/nr/travel/louisiana/ 

riverroad.htm. 

Houmas House was bought some 14 years ago 

by New Orleanian Kevin Kelly who not only 

restored it to exceptional glory, but turned it into 

a wonderful restaurant with several venues as 

well as a high-end hotel with 21 guest rooms in 

beautiful new cottages. Next time, I’ll spend a 

night here. (www.houmashouse.com.) 

Kelly bought this property when it was a gutted 

shell with no gardens. His associate, Jimmy 

Blanchard, an extraordinary artist and designer, 

brought it to newfound glory. 

Named after local Indians, the Ouma, Houmas 

House originated in 1720 with a brick hacienda, 

Blanchard told us. In 1858, it was sold to John 

Burnside for $1 million. 

“Known as the Sugar Palace, It was then 

the largest sugar plantation in America with 

250,000 acres,” Blanchard said. 

It was also the largest slave holder in Louisiana 

then with more than 800 slaves, according to 

the National Park Service. 

“It was so Catholic, Christian and French, slave 

plantations here were different from the rest of 

the country because we had many free blacks 

who owned slaves,” Blanchard told us. “It was 

a whole different, complicated world… In fact, a 

black person in Louisiana discovered how to 

crystallize sugar so it could be shipped.” 

Tour this former plantation home and prepare 

to be amazed. Blanchard has designed every 

room with fascinating, unique, evocative pieces 

that are simply remarkable. “It’s been a home 

for 300 years, so we show things from every 

era — it’s eclectic. Most plantation houses don’t 

live anymore, but this one is still lived in.” 

Indeed, Kelly told us — he lives full-time here — 

“my bedroom is on tour from 10:30 a.m. to 8:30 

p.m. every day.” 

The many various dining rooms as well as the 

glorious gardens — with one of the largest 

Top: Dessert sampler at Tableau: Vanilla 

Bean Creme Brûlée, Flourless Chocolate 

Cake and Bananas Foster Cheesecake. . 

Bottom: Shrimp po-boy at Houmas House 

Plantation on Louisiana’s famed River 

Road. 


collections of bromeliads not to mention the ancient live oaks 

that adorn the grounds —make for an unforgettable sojourn. 

“You can’t find this atmosphere anywhere else,” said Blanchard, 

“We get a lot of proposals.” 

Back in the city, we dined that night at Arnaud’s on Bienville. 

One of the city’s classic Creole vanguards, Arnaud’s has been 

in favor since 1918. (www.arnaudsrestaurant.com.) 

One dish on Arnaud’s reveillon dinner menu never changes: 

Creole Onion Soup en Croute. “People look forward to it every 

year,” chef Tommy DiGiovanni told the Times-Picayune. 

Other classics include Duck Rillettes, “with the nouveau additions 

of caramelized onions and cherry confit — ‘nouveau’ as 

in trends that are a few decades old as opposed to 100 years 

old,” laughed DiGiovanni. 

Seafood dishes feature Gulf drum, shrimp and oysters in a 

hearty tomato sauce, a strong Spanish element in Creole 

cuisine. 

Commander’s Palace, often voted the best 

restaurant in the city, is housed in an old 

Garden District mansion. 

134 


Whatever you choose, do not forgo a plate of souffle potatoes, 

a dish I’ve only ever had in New Orleans’ grand Creole 

restaurants, including Arnaud’s, Antoine’s and Galatoire’s. 

Here’s how Arnaud’s describes these pillows of delight: 

“Legend has it that Collinet, French King Louis Phillipe’s (reign 

1830-1848) chef unintentionally created souffle potatoes 

by plunging already fried potatoes into extremely hot oil to 

reheat them… to the chef’s surprise and king’s delight, the 

potatoes puffed up like little balloons.” They are served with 

bearnaise sauce. This may be my favorite potato dish in the 

world. 

And also do not miss Cafe 

Brulot, another classic on 

many upscale old-line 

Creole menus here. This 

is an after-dinner coffee/ 

brandy drink that is prepared 

tableside, including 

some very theatrical flaming 

techniques in special 

equipment that gleams of 

silver. This is no ordinary 

after-dinner drink, but 

then, this is New Orleans. 

(www.arnaudsrestaurant. 

com.) 

Lunch the next day at Commander’s Palace put us in another 

Brennan temple to Creole cuisine. You may notice there are 

a lot of Brennans in the restaurant business in New Orleans. 

They are in the second and third and fourth generations now, 

and to map the uncles, aunts, fathers, mothers and cousins 

who hail from this clan would be exhausting. 

Commander’s Palace may be the most famous — and lauded 

— of all. It has been named best restaurant in New Orleans 

and even best restaurant in the United States many times. 

(www.commanderspalace.com.) 

A Garden District landmark since 1893, Commander’s Palace 

is housed in an old mansion, many different rooms becoming 

favorite dining rooms. In 1974, Ella, Dottie, Dick and John 

Brennan took it over and the accolades began. Famous chefs 

Emeril Lagasse and Paul Prudhomme both cooked here early 

in their careers. 

We dined in the Garden Room, a perennial favorite, indulging 

first in the famous “25-cent martinis — classic, Commander’s 

(the turquoise one), Cosmopolitan or Ray’s melon — limit 

three per person ‘cause that’s enough.” 

Favorite daytime favorites here include smoked corn stoneground 

grits, Commander’s turtle soup finished table side with 

sherry, Creole gumbo du jour, and cast-iron seared Gulf fish 

with Louisiana crab and boiled peanuts pureed with brown 

butter. Another classic is its cornbread crusted catfish with 

Cajun andouille sausage, grilled Visalia onions, Louisiana red 

beans and roasted tomatoes 

with smoked corn grits. 

If you save room, here also is 

NOLA’s “most iconic dessert” 

— Creole Bread Pudding 

Souffle, created in 1981 by 

Prudhomme. 

Walk it all off around the Garden 

District to view some of 

the city’s grandest homes. 

Our final culinary adventure 

was dinner at Broussard’s on 

Conti Street. Considered the 

fourth of the grand-dame Creole 

French restaurants in the 

French Quarter (the others being Antoine’s, Galatoire’s and 

Arnaud’s), Broussard’s opened in 1920. Its outdoor courtyard 

for patio dining is one of the prettiest in the city. (www.broussards.com.) 

It offers one of the city’s favorite reveillon menus of classic 

Creole dishes. We loved its shrimp remoulade featuring Gulf 

shrimp in that classic Creole sauce, akin to a slightly spicy 

tartar sauce. The crabmeat gratin featured grilled cauliflower. 

Entrees of Louisiana Bonaparte — fresh local fish sautéed 

and topped with lump crabmeat, lemon butter and grilled asparagus; 

shrimp and crab penne diablo — with corn and reggiano 

parmesan; and Gulf shrimp King Creole — with sesame 

herb sticky rice, were each truly delectable. 

Is your mouth watering yet? 

Mine, too. 

Garlic Seared Gulf Shrimp at Commander’s 

Palace, with grilled rapini greens, slowroasted 

tomato, wild rice, charred shallots, 

brown butter pureed Louisiana yams, 

cebollita emulsion and sweet corn soubise. 

On the side is its smoked corn stone 

ground grits. 


Visiting the Fab Four’s Liverpool 

Salvation Army orphanage that lent its 

name to “Strawberry Fields Forever” . 

Courtesy Eirik Newth from Oslo, Oslo. 

“...Brian Epstein, visited 

the Cavern Club where 

they were performing 

to see what the fuss 

was all about...” 

By Sharon Whitley Larsen 

Recently I was lucky to visit 

Liverpool for the fourth 

time, reveling in the midst of 

Beatles Territory--the Merseyside 

hometown of John Lennon, Paul 

McCartney, George Harrison, and Ringo 

Starr. 

This vibrant city was designated 

European Capital of Culture 2008; 

prior to that, in 2004, areas of the city 

center and waterfront were named as 

a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was 

also declared in 2015 as UNESCO City 

of Music. 

And no wonder. It was in October 1961 

that a teen strolled into a local record 

store and asked for a recording of “My 

Bonnie”-- then popular in Germany by a 

young group of moptop Liverpudlians. 

Shortly after, the manager of the familyowned 

record shop, Brian Epstein, 

visited the Cavern Club where they 

were performing to see what the fuss 

was all about. 

The rest, as they say, is history. The 

Beatles really put Liverpool on the map. 

And from staying at the Hard Days 

Night Hotel--to taking a ferry ‘cross the 

Mersey--to touring the Beatles’ childhood 

homes and historic sites--this city 

of 465,000 is Fabulous “Fab Four” Fun. 

A “must” for every Beatles fan is to visit 

The Beatles Story on Albert Dock (and 

its smaller counterpart at Pier Head-- 

which also includes history and artifacts 

on other popular 1960s musical groups). 

The self-guided audio tour entertains 

with detailed history, interviews and 

anecdotes about the Fab Four as fans 

peruse the costumes, photos, posters, 

instruments, news clips--and sights and 

sounds of Beatlemania. 

There are replicas, including one of 

John Lennon’s “White Room” with its 

grand piano--and of the Cavern Club, 

where visitors can rest their feet and en- 

136 


The early years of The Fab Four (John Lennon, 

Paul McCartney, George Harrison & Ringo 

Starr). From the cover of Beatles – LP Live At 

The BBC – volume 2 . Photo courtesy Wiki 

Commons. 


joy a video documentary. You’re allowed to take photos, and 

several tourists snapped away. I spent nearly three hours 

on my recent tour here, stopping in the cafe for a bite to eat 

afterwards--and browsing through the gift shop that sells 

Beatles T-shirts galore. 

During my visits here, I have worked in a Beatles-themed 

tour, whether joining other fans on a van to visit the childhood 

homes of John Lennon and Paul McCartney--or to have 

a private driver/guide show me the sites of their Liverpool 

lifestyle and inspiration for the famous songs--such as Penny 

Lane, Eleanor Rigby, and Strawberry Field. 

I’ve sipped wine at the Jacaranda Club and The Grapes pub 

(and the reconstructed Cavern Club), where the Beatles performed 

or hung out. Near St. Peter’s Anglican Church, where 

Bronze scupture of Eleanor Rigby in 

Liverpool.a gift from Britain’s 1950s rock 

‘n’ roll idol Tommy Steele, “for all the lonely 

people.” Center: The sculpture of John Lennon 

outside The Cavern Pub was unveiled 

on 16 January 1997. Photo courtesy George 

Groutas from Idalion, Cyprus. Right: A view 

down Penny Lane at the opposite end from 

the roundabout, approaching the junction 

with Greenbank Road near to Sefton Park.. 

138 


Paul first met John in 1957 at the annual Woolton garden 

party, is the churchyard cemetery, where one gravestone 

reads: “In loving memory of. . .Eleanor Rigby. . .died 10th Oct. 

1939, aged 44 years. . . .” 

Today in central Liverpool there’s a statue of Eleanor Rigby 

sitting on a park bench, a gift from Britain’s 1950s rock ‘n’ roll 

idol Tommy Steele, “for all the lonely people.” And there’s a 

statue of the Fab Four installed in 2015 on Pier Head, where 

tourists love to pose for photos. 

As one elderly taxi driver told me, “I’ve lived here all my life 

and saw the Beatles at the Cavern in 1961. It was crowded, 

hot, and smoky. I knew there was something special about 

them, their music was different from other sounds.” 


And here I was, reliving that musical history as I rode down 

Penny Lane with my private guide Sylvia. 

“So many fans through the years have constantly ‘borrowed’ 

the Penny Lane street sign that it’s now painted on,” noted 

Sylvia as she pulled the car over, insisting on taking my picture 

beside the famous landmark. 

Here I was, under “the blue suburban sky” on Penny Lane- 

-a rather nondescript and somewhat disappointing street, I 

thought. 

However, as we continued 

driving down 

the two-lane road, 

Sylvia pointed out 

that the end of the 

street “was where the 

bus terminated when 

you came out of the 

city; it was an important 

intersection.” 

“The shelter in the 

middle of a roundabout” 

became “Sgt. 

Pepper’s Bistro.” 

And the barbershop 

(“In Penny Lane the 

barber shaves another customer; we see the banker sitting 

waiting for a trim. . .”) is still there. 

“The Beatles didn’t do barbers any good,” Sylvia says with a 

chuckle. 

“They were only schoolboys--they had no great life experience; 

they had to travel on buses, carry their guitars. Because 

George and John lived in the suburbs, this bus stop was the 

most important place to get together.” 

On our tour Sylvia zips her car around, pointing out the Beatles’ 

sites (I’m amazed at how close they lived to one another- 

-within a few miles): St. Barnabas, where Paul was a choirboy 

(the Anglican Cathedral had rejected him, saying his voice was 

not good enough!); the Woolworth’s where Cynthia Lennon 

worked; the Liverpool College of Art where John and Cynthia 

met; the Liverpool Institute next door which both Paul and 

George attended (they didn’t meet there, but on the top of a 

double-decker bus, when Paul noticed that George was wearing 

the same shirt and had a guitar). 

We drive past 197 Queen’s Drive, the former elegant home of 

Beatles’ manager Brian Epstein’s family and, of course, tour 

the downtown reconstructed Cavern Club, where the Beatles 

performed 292 times between February 9, 1961, and August 3, 

1963. 

Fans can see modest 12 

Arnold Grove, George’s 

birthplace, where he lived 

until age 7, and 25 Upton 

Green, where the family 

later moved--as well as the 

tiny working-class rowhouse 

at 9 Madryn Street 

where Ringo was born, and 

10 Admiral Grove, where he 

lived from ages 5-23. 

A special highlight is to 

tour the childhood homes 

of John Lennon and Paul 

McCartney, now owned by 

The National Trust. 

As my husband Carl and I joined a dozen others for a van tour, 

we were told the rules: Buckle-up, no gum-chewing, and no 

cameras or cell phones allowed inside the houses. 

“We don’t want to hear, ‘Guess where I am? Paul McCartney’s 

bedroom!’” cheerily noted our guide. 

We first stopped at 251 Menlove Ave. — “Mendips” — in Woolton, 

where John had lived with his Aunt Mimi from 1945-1963, 

from ages 5-23. 

“The National Trust and Yoko Ono welcome you,” greeted our 

guide. 

The two-story, three-bedroom, one-bath duplex, built in 1933 

The author and her husband Carl Larsen 

pose next to their Beatles’ tour van.. Photo 

courtesy Sharon Whitley Larsen. 


— a very neat, middle-class home (described by Paul as “posh” 

when he first visited) — looks much the same as when John 

lived here, with 1950s decor. 

had various jobs, including working as a barmaid, and who 

played the piano and banjo) was killed by a car as she crossed 

the street in front when he was 17. 

The middle-class house had both happy and sad memories 

for John, as his fun-loving and flamboyant mother Julia (who 

We began the tour on the side yard, entering the tiny kitchen 

where Mimi used to cook John his favorite meal, eggs and 

chips. Next to the kitchen is the sunny, small family room 

where John spent a lot of time drawing, listening to the radio 

(he was a fan of “The Goon Show”) — and where Mimi loved to 

sew on her Singer sewing machine. Across the tiny hall is the 

back dining room, where John and his first wife, Cynthia, lived 

during their first year of marriage. 

Today, visitors can peruse family items, including photo 

albums and John’s Sunday School record of attendance when 

The Beatles at the Cavern Club. 1962 Photo: 

courtesty Apple Corps Ltd. 

Left: The Cavern Club today. Photo courtesy 

Wiki Commons. 


he was 6 and a framed program on the wall from the “St. Peter’s 

Church Garden Fete — 3 p.m., July 6, 1957” —where John 

and his Quarrymen first met Paul. 

The more formal, small front living room, with built-in bookshelves 

lining both sides of the fireplace, was where John 

would sit and write poetry and song lyrics, telling Mimi, “You 

should keep these because I’m going to be famous one day 

and they’ll be worth something!” This is also where he and 

Paul sat down to play guitars together, and where they would 

rehearse on Sunday afternoons with friends, including one 

with a six-piece drum set, until Mimi banished them for peace 

and quiet. 

“The guitar’s all right, John, but you’ll never make a living with 

it,” she once told him. Later she cheerfully answered the huge 

piles of his fan mail at the window desk. 

“Come here!” the guide exclaimed, motioning me out the front 

door. “Sing something!” 

When I protested that I couldn’t carry a tune, he then pointed 

out the small, enclosed, windowed front porch, where John 

and Paul rehearsed, finding the acoustics perfect for harmonizing. 

After climbing the wooden staircase in the entry hall, I toured 

John’s tiny, narrow front bedroom, which had a twin bed 

pushed to one side, and small dresser. It was here where he 

would spend hours on the bed reading, with his feet up on 

the wall, drawing, dreaming, gazing out the bay window to the 

street, and writing songs — including “Please, Please Me.” 

Yoko Ono, who purchased Mendips in 2002 and donated 

it to The National Trust, which opened it to the public the 

following year, wrote in the guidebook: “Everything that happened 

afterwards germinated from John’s dreaming in his 

little bedroom.” 

Next we rode to nearby 20 Forthlin Rd., Allerton, a two-story 

John and Paul pose in front of drum set. 

Coutesy Wikimedia Commons. 

142 


Top: John Lennon’s childhood 

home. photo courtesy Havaska and Wiki 

Commons. 

Bottom: Paul McCartney’s childhood home. 

Courtesy Wiki Commons.. 


ick, three-bedroom, one-bath, midterrace 

house where Paul had moved 

with his family in 1955, when he was 13 

and his brother Mike, 12. 

A custom-made sign inside above the 

front door says, “In loving memory of 

Mum and Dad, Mary and Jim.” It was 

put there by Paul and his brother. 

A recording by Paul greets visitors in 

the small, front living room: “Many of 

my favorite years were spent in this 

house — many lovely years — some 

sad, yes, but most of my memories are 

very happy ... Enjoy your trip around!” 

The living room, with fireplace, is 

furnished with cozy 1950s decor — a 

small television, armchair, sofa, and 

upright piano — and is similar to how 

it looked when the McCartneys lived 

here. It was in this front room where 

John and Paul wrote many songs, 

including “Love Me Do” and “I Saw Her 

Standing There.” 

Upstairs are the bedrooms — and a 

tiny one in front was Paul’s, furnished 

with a twin bed against one wall. 

As Paul sums up in the guidebook, 

“My mum and dad would have found 

it very hard to believe that the house 

is now a National Trust Property. You 

expect The National Trust to own 

places like Blenheim Palace, not a little 

terrace house like this. But they would 

be chuffed about it, and so am I.” 

The Beatles Story, Albert Dock: www. 

beatlesstory.com/albert-dock 

The Beatles Story, Pier Head: www. 

beatlesstory.com/pier-head 

(Ticket is good for both museums for 

two days.) 

For more information: www.beatlesstory.com/day-tripper 

The National Trust, touring John’s and 

Paul’s childhood homes (important to 

book ahead): 

www.nationaltrust.org.uk/beatleschildhood-homes 

Museum of Liverpool (also has Beatles’ 

relics--including a short film--and 

it’s free): www.liverpoolmuseums.org. 

uk/mol/ 

Port Sunlight Museum (a short train 

ride away) features some Beatles’ 

items, including an interesting radio 

interview when they were first starting 

out. www.portsunlightvillage.com/ 

The village’s Hulme Hall is where 

Ringo first performed with the group 

on August 18, 1962: www.hulmehall. 

com/ 

Hard Days Night Hotel: www.harddaysnighthotel.com/ 

Treat yourself to a drink and munchies 

at Panoramic34--with a magnificent 

34th-floor city view. Reservations recommended: 

www.panoramic34.com/ 

For more information: 

Visit Liverpool: www.visitliverpool.com 

Visit England: www.visitengland.com- 

Visit Britain: www.visitbritain.com 

144 

IF YOU GO 


Beatles with Birmingham Police 

officers . Courtesy Wikimedia 

Commons 


Pa ra dise Fou n d 

Tuscany’s Thermal Spas Are Just What the Doctor Ordered 

By Amy Laughinghouse 

I’ve been to hell and back -- and it’s 

not at all what you might expect. 

Contrary to popular belief, the road 

isn’t paved with good intentions, but 

with concrete. 

In the dimly-lit afterlife, towering 

stalactites and dagger-like stalagmites 

punctuate sinuous corridors that wind 

through bulbous, dimpled rock, like the 

pathways of a giant, labyrinthine brain. 

There are even handrails to prevent you 

from falling into the abyss. (Health and 

safety measures in the devil’s digs? 

Presumably, even the pitchforks come 

with a warning: “Caution. Pointy on one 

end.”) 

It’s also surprisingly easy to pass 

between Paradise, Purgatory, and the 

sultry Inferno, where a sign advises “Silence 

Helps Relaxation.” Indeed, there’s 

nary a muffled scream of agony. It must 

be the demons day off, as the only 

souls I see are figures in white hooded 

robes, kicking back in deck chairs and 

sweating for their sins. 

Fortunately for me, this intriguing netherworld 

is actually the largest thermal 

cave in Europe, nestled deep within 

Grotta Giusti resort in Tuscany. Quarry 

workers accidentally discovered the 

146 


“It must be the demons day off, as the only souls 

I see are figures in white hooded robes, kicking 

back in deck chairs and sweating for their sins.” 

grotto, home to a 130 million-year-old 

mineral-rich spring, in 1849 near the 

villa of Italian poet Giuseppe Giusti. 

Shortly afterwards, the entrepreneurial 

wordsmith converted his estate into a 

spa and hotel. When the 19th century 

composer Giuseppe Verdi gave the 

grotto a big thumbs up, dubbing it “the 

eighth wonder of the world,” it’s reputation 

was made. 

Today, the enterprise encompasses 

a 64-room hotel, which debuted a 15 

million Euro refurbishment this spring. 

The revamp revealed refreshed guestrooms 

and a lighter, airier restaurant 

and piano bar, without sacrificing the 

villa’s original frescoes and selection of 

period antiques. Two outdoor thermal 

pools feature hydro-massage jets, 

where guests bob like poached eggs, 

and an expansive spa offers everything 

Guests relax in Grotta Giusti’s steamy 

grotto, which is heated by a thermal spring. 

Courtesy Grotta Giusti, Italian Hospitality 

Collection. 

Opposite: Grotta Giusti spa is located within 

an elaborate stone building erected in the 

mid-19th century, shortly after the thermal 

grotto was discovered. Copyright Amy 

Laughinghouse. 


from massage to mud therapy, antiageing 

and anti-cellulite treatments, 

and a recently launched “Equilibrium” 

program focusing on nutrition, relaxation 

techniques, thermal therapy and 

exercise. The surrounding 110-acre park 

provides plenty of ways to escape the 

creeping tendrils of inertia, with a hiking 

trail, tennis courts, rock climbing, and 

paragliding, while a nearby golf course 

treats guests to a discount. 

It’s the grotto, though, that steals the 

show. Vapors from the thermal spring 

transform the cavern into a natural 

sauna where temperatures vary from 

around 82 to 97 degrees Fahrenheit. 

A 50-minute tour is meant to alleviate 

a laundry list of ailments, including 

respiratory, circulatory, osteo-muscular, 

nervous and skin conditions. 

According to the hotel’s marketing 

director, Barbara Guidi, “the heat helps 

Portrait of Roald Dahl courtesy Carl Van 

Vechten - Van Vechten Collection. 

148 


muscles totally relax and absorb these 

minerals into the bones. It stimulates 

the production of endorphins, which is 

why you feel so relaxed. It’s like a drug.” 

In fact, it’s so much like a drug that the 

Italian government subsidizes citizens’ 

visits here. So when a doctor tells their 

patients to go to hell, at least they don’t 

have to pay full price for the privilege. 

Visitors can also enjoy full immersion 

therapy – a baptism, if you like – in the 

Lago del Limbo, the crystal clear, 93-degree 

lake that stretches out beneath the 

cavern’s cathedral-like arches. Grotta Giusti 

is the only hotel in the world where 

you can scuba dive in a thermal cave 

system, but as I’ve always been keen 

on breathing oxygen that doesn’t come 

from a can, I opt instead for “floatation 

therapy” in the lake with Luciano Tanini, 

who has been exploring these caves 

since 1980. 

Cradling me in his arms, Luciano 

stretches and bends my limbs as he 

moves me gently through the balmy 

water. Swaying like seaweed, entrusting 

myself to the strong hands of a 

stranger, I’m as carefree as flotsam 

and jetsam on an infinite ocean. 

You might even say that I’m as happy 

as a pig in mud…but just what is it 

about mud that’s supposed to induce 

such euphoria? That’s what I aim to 

find out when I travel 28 miles west to 

Bagni di Pisa, which places a special 

emphasis on fangotherapy. (It’s 

nothing to do with vampires. That’s 

spa-speak for detoxifying, anti-inflammatory 

treatments using hot clay 

steeped in thermal waters). 

Grotta Giusti’s 64-room hotel is set within 

a 19th century villa in Monsummano Terme, 

Tuscany. Copyright Amy Laughinghouse. 

Left: A woman tests the warm thermal waters 

in the Hammam dei Granduchi at Bagni 

di Pisa spa resort in Tuscany. The hammam 

is built into an intimate natural grotto. Courtesy 

Bagni di Pisa, Italian Hospitality Collection. 

Opposite: Grotta Giusti in Italy’s Monsummano 

Terme is the only hotel in the world 

offering diving in a thermal cave system. 

Courtesy Grotta Giusti, Italian Hospitality 

Collection. 


Like Grotta Giusti, the 61-room Bagni di Pisa is part of the 

Italian Hospitality Collection, and it’s also housed in an 

historic Tuscan property with a renowned thermal spa. The 

Bagni di Pisa villa, replete with historic frescoes, was owned by 

the Medicis before the Lorena family adopted it as their summer 

residence, less than four miles from the city of Pisa. 

Through the centuries, Bagni di Pisa has hosted illustrious 

guests like George IV of England, Lord Byron, and Mary Shelley, 

for whom the hotel’s glamourous Shelley Bar is named. (Maybe 

Mary dreamt up Frankenstein after one too many martinis?) 

It’s easy to imagine such glitterati sitting down to dinner in the 

elegant Dei Lorena restaurant, although perhaps not so casually 

attired as some guests today, who don’t hesitate to rock up in 

their spa robes and slippers, particularly at lunch. 

Set amid flowering fruit trees and botanical gardens, Bagni di 

Pisa features an outdoor thermal pool and four indoor pools; the 

Hammam dei Granduchi, a romantic natural grotto with a twoperson 

bath fed by a thermal waterfall; and the Salidarium, where 

I’m buried up to my neck in a bed of warm salt crystals, emerging 

some twenty minutes later feeling as delectable as a salted cod. 

But the resort’s piece de resistance is the afore-mentioned fangotherapy, 

which is also subsidized by the Italian government. 

Before I meet the mud, a man in a white lab coat takes my blood 

pressure, which proves to be low – hardly surprising, considering 

I’ve already spent two days kicking back at Grotta Giusti. 

Bagni di Pisa spa resort in Tuscany features 

a large outdoor swimming pool filled with 

thermal water. Copyright Amy Laughinghouse. 

Opposite top: The Bioaquam Circuit in 

Bagni di Pisa’s Levante Spa is a 70-squaremetre 

thermal pool containing a series of 

hydro-massage stations, situated beneath 

an arched glass roof. Courtesy Bagni di 

Pisa, Italian Hospitality Collection. 

“... I’m buried up to my ne 

salt crystals, emerging so 

later feeling as delectable 

Opposite bottom: A suite with a soaring 

frescoed ceiling at Bagni di Pisa spa resort 

in Tuscany. Courtesy Bagni di Pisa, Italian 

Hospitality Collection. 


ck in a bed of warm 

me twenty minutes 

as a salted cod.” 


After he explains that the mineral-infused mud will 

be applied to my back, shoulders and flanks, I’m 

ushered to the treatment area, where I meet Rossella. 

With her mass of black curls framing a kindly face, she just 

about puts me at ease, despite the fact that she’s wearing 

a plastic apron and gloves. (It’s possible I’ve seen too many 

episodes of “Dexter.”) 

“Then she swaddles m 

a thick orange blanket 

back, where I lay like a 

Stripping down to a pair of paper panties, I sit on bed enshrouded 

in gauze while Rossella slathers me in medicinal 

muck dispensed from an industrial-looking silver pipe. Then 

she swaddles me in a sheet of plastic and a thick orange 

blanket before easing me onto my back, where I lay like a 

helpless burrito. 

“Cinque, cinque, cinque!” Rossella smiles, flashing five fingers 

at me repeatedly to indicate that I’ll baste for fifteen minutes. 

Occasionally, she returns to check on my progress, mopping 

my brow with a tissue and bestowing a beatific smile, like 

Mother Theresa in a Saran Wrap habit. 

When Rossella finally frees me from my cocoon, such is her 

delight that you would have thought she was unwrapping 

her first bicycle, rather than my sweating, shriveled carcass. 

“Bueno!” she says, clapping her hands, clearly pleased with 

the lagoon of perspiration I’ve produced. Never have I been so 

roundly applauded for so little effort, but nevertheless, I feel 

myself blushing with pride…or possibly heatstroke. 

Finally, Rossella leads me to a warm tub, handing me a 

shower nozzle that issues blessedly cool water. Then she 

withdraws, leaving me to simmer like suet pudding. Closing 

my eyes, I take stock of my various body parts and realize 

that, for the first time in ages, the tangled knots of tension that 

usually plague my back are gone. 

Perhaps we should all take a page from the piggies’ playbook. 

I’ve found my paradise at last. 

The Shelley Bar at Bagni di Pisa spa 

resort is named for Mary Shelley, one of 

the famous guests who have visited this 

historic villa in San Giuliano Terme, Tuscany. 

Courtesy Bagni di Pisa, Italian Hospitality 

Collection. 

152 


e in a sheet of plastic and 

before easing me onto my 

helpless burrito.” 

IF YOU GO 

Getting there: Grotta Giusti is about a 50-minute drive from 

Pisa and Florence airports. Bagni di Pisa is 20 minutes from 

Pisa airport and approximately an hour from Florence airport. 

Stay: Grotta Giusti, four-star resort in Monsummano Terme, 

from 135 Euros ($150) per person, www.grottagiustispa.com. 

Bagni di Pisa, five-star resort in San Giuliano Terme, from 144 

Euros ($160) per person, www.bagnidipisa.com. The Italian 

Hospitality Collection also includes a third Tuscan resort, 

Fonteverde, which features along with Grotta Giusti and Bagni 

di Pisa on the new nine-night “Tuscan Route.” All three properties 

offer thermal spas and the collection’s signature Equilibrium 

program, developed by Dr. Nicola Angelo Fortunati. For 

details, visit www.italianhospitalitycollection.com. 

Grotta Giusti is set on a 45-hectare estate 

in Monsummano Terme, Tuscany. A hiking 

trail leads through fields of wildflowers and 

an olive grove. Copyright Amy Laughinghouse. 


Trinbagonian VIibes 

Discovering cultural and natural wealth in Trinidad and Tobago 

Story & Photography by 


Teens, grownups and elders drummed and danced, girls’ hair whipping 

side to side and grins growing ever wider, as the Invaders played 

an exuberant version of Ben E. King’s “Stand by Me.” They coaxed an 

impossible range of notes and melodies from rows of shiny steelpans 

balanced on perches in a barren back lot on a dusky Trinidanian evening. Onlookers 

swayed their hips and shuffled their feet as the band segued into Glenn Miller’s 

“In the Mood.” A few reggae favorites made it into the mix, and the air rang with an 

irresistible vibe. The steelpan, a local invention from the 1930s, became my new 

favorite instrument, playing in the background during a weeklong writer’s conference 

that included several excursions in the Republic of Trinidad and Tobago. 

154 


Tobago’s Pigeon 

Point is popular for 

watersports. 


The two Caribbean Islands lie just 

seven miles off the coast of Venezuela 

and are part of South America. Together 

they comprise the third richest country 

in GDP in the Americas, thanks to 

abundant sources of oil and natural 

gas. I missed that part of the islands’ 

fame, concentrating instead on everyday 

island fun. As Warren Solomon, 

the republic’s Minister of Tourism, joked 

during the conference’s opening ceremony, 

“I think the real energy comes 

from our people. We enjoy everything to 

the last drop.” 

Cultural Influences 

Trinidad and Tobago claim to have the 

most holiday celebrations in the Caribbean, 

thanks to the many nationalities 

among the 1.3 million residents. The 

islands went through Spanish, Dutch, 

French and British rule before gaining 

independence in 1962. Indentured workers 

were imported from East India in the 

mid-1800s, and more than 35 percent 

of the islanders are of Indian descent. 

Another 30-something percent are of 

African descent, and the rest is a mix of 

European, Asian and Lebanese influences. 

Top: The Hindu god Hanuman rises 85 

feet high. Bottom; Trips to the mountains 

include stops for candy and fruit. 

156 


“I think the real energy comes from our people. 

We enjoy everything to the last drop.” 

“We Trinis like to boast about our heritage,” 

one tour guide told me. “We’re 

like callaloo,” a multi-ingredient soup. 

I was pleased to find a strong Indian 

influence in the regional cuisine, and 

happily devoured doubles (curried 

chick peas in a flour shell) and roti (a 

flour wrap with curried veggies and/ 

or meat) from roadside stands. Thanks 

to the Indian influence, Hinduism is 

the second-largest religion practiced 

on the islands (after Roman Catholicism), 

and temples dot the landscape. 

One even sits on the sea. The circular 

Waterloo Temple was the dream project 

of indentured laborer and devoted 

Hindu Seedas Sadhu, who began his 

construction in 1947. Unfortunately, 

he chose a state-owned island for his 

temple, which was destroyed by the 

government five years later. 

Sadhu spent the following 25 years 

creating his new temple in the shallow 

sea, building a base from stones 

and earth he transported to the site by 

bicycle. In 1994, the government helped 

complete the temple and a gardenedged 

pier lined with prayer flags, and 

it’s now both a Hindu sacred site and 

Statue of the Hindu god Ganesh at the 

Waterloo Temple. 


157

a must-see attraction. Flowers and coins are placed before 

elaborately painted statues of Ganesh, Shiva, Vishnu and 

other Hindu deities draped in silk and gilded jewels and 

windows around the building face the open water. Nearby, 

another deity, the protective god Hanuman, is honored with 

an 85-foot-high statue at the Dattatreya Yoga Center. 

What may be the Caribbean’s largest Hindu celebration 

takes place on Trinidad in October or November, depending 

on the moon’s cycles. The Indo-Trinidanian culture is 

celebrated with nine days of music and dance culminating 

in a fireworks display on the national holiday of Divali, 

when people light candles and lamps honoring the powers 

of good and light over evil and darkness. 

158 


“...Divali, when people light candles and lamps honoring 

the powers of good and light over evil and darkness...” 

Clockwise: Scarlet Ibis flock to an island 

in Caroni Swamp; Trinidad’s backcountry 

hills have views of stunning bays.; Steelpan 

practice.; Stops at rum shops are an important 

part of backcountry explorations. 


159

Natural Exuberance 

Butterflies and birds abound in the islands’ undeveloped rainforests, 

marshes, coastlines and mountains, and my favorite 

excursions included lots of natural exposure. Port of Spain, 

Trinidad’s main city, quickly gives way to a green-on-green 

landscape broken by small towns with all the requisite businesses, 

from KFC to roti take outs to fruit and candy stands 

(don’t miss 

the pickled green 

mango called 

chow). According 

to my guide, 

the omnipresent 

rum shops 

are essential in 

even the 

tiniest outposts. 

“Rum is an 

integral part of 

our culture,” 

he said. “Rum 

shops are 

the first business 

to open and 

the last to close.” 

The tour 

included stops, of 

course. 

We also lingered at Richard’s in Maracas Beach for bake 

and shark, an island classic with seasoned shark inside fried 

bread. There were easily a dozen sauces for further flavor, 

including yummy garlic, tamarind and cilantro versions and 

lip-searing pepper and chile potions best avoided. The long, 

popular beach is lined with similar casual stands. In the past, 

the shark came straight from nearby waters, but the creatures 

are disappearing due to overfishing, and some stands 

offer dorado, calamari and even vegetarian options. The sand 

looked tempting, but we were soon off to the lush mountains 

for staggering views of the coast. 

I devoted several hours to a similar country tour on Tobago, 

spotting jewel-covered hummingbirds and posing for photos 

of the sculptured roots of a 350-year-old silk cotton tree. 

Healthy-looking goats grazed beside simple wooden houses 

in small villages and the countryside. Turns out Tobago’s goat 

races are legendary. Racers train by swimming in the ocean 

(we didn’t spot any paddling goats, unfortunately) and are 

“ Turns out Tobago’s go 

Racers train by swimm 

Left to Right: Ladies prepare Bake and 

Shark at Richard’s.; Sunset at Caroni 

Swamp; Shops and stands in small towns 

sell all necessary supplies. 

160 


given race names like Dragonfly and Spring Feet. On Easter 

Monday and Tuesday the goats, dressed in colored coats, 

race along a track, urged on by barefoot jockeys pulling long 

ropes. Crab races are also held, should the goats not provide 

sufficient amusement. 

I did manage 

to snag several 

beach hours 

at Tobago’s 

lovely Pigeon 

Point, where 

activities 

included paddle 

boarding, 

kayaking, kite 

boarding and 

my personal 

favorite— 

lounging on the 

beach with 

chatty locals. I 

was eager to 

get out in the 

wilderness 

after hearing the 

islands’ offered primo prime bird watching along with sightings 

of howler monkeys and nesting sea turtles. But my one 

long hike on lacked any sort of wildlife as a storm brewed in 

the distance. Seems all creatures save my guide and I were 

smart enough to take cover. 

at races are legendary. 

ing in the ocean...” 

The best natural encounter by far took place during an evening 

boat ride in Trinidad’s Caroni Swamp and Bird Sanctuary. 

We floated through spooky dark canals vaguely reminiscent 

of the Amazon, ducking under mangrove branches and 

watching white egrets and blue herons gracefully skim the 

silvery water. As 4 p.m. approached, we stopped far offshore a 

small island for the daily arrival of hundreds of scarlet ibis, the 

national bird. Sure enough, we began to spot a few red dots 

on the horizon, then more and more as the graceful birds flew 

in formation and roosted in the island’s mangroves as the setting 

sun glowed over the treetops. The only thing missing was 

the beat of a steelpan band in the background for the perfect 

ending to a Trinbagonian adventure. 


161

Postcards from 

Tanzania 

POSTCARDS FROM JOHN & JODY 

This is the latest in a series of “postcards” sent 

to WDT Magazine publisher, Ron James, from 

veteran journalists and friends Jody Jaffe and 

John Muncie as they travel the globe. 

Dear Ron, 

We saw our first big cat a half hour after 

entering Tarangire National Park. We 

were late to the viewing. By the time we 

drove up, eight other safari trucks and at 

least 23 zoom-lenses, some the size of 

an elephant’s leg, were already ahead of 

us. 

Under a tree by the side of the dirt track 

lay the carcass of a half-eaten antelope. 

About 60 yards away, on the other side 

of a stream, was the perpetrator – a 

leopard, whose spectacular fur would 

have been great camouflage at a 1960s’ 

fashion shoot. 

The leopard eyed all of us with feline 

aplomb. He licked his fur, yawned, 

yawned again, flicked his tail. Then he 

slumped down for a post-prandial nap. 

A male lion saunters across our path in 

Ngorongoro Crater; on photo safari in 

Serengeti National Park. 

162 


Some of the trucks motored off but we stayed a few minutes 

longer. Suddenly the leopard got up, ambled over to a tree 

and, stretching up, scratched the bark like it was the arm of 

a sofa. Then, with supernatural grace, he jumped up into the 

branches and disappeared behind the trunk. 

It was the first day of our week-long Tanzanian safari. Just the 

two of us and Baraka Ng’wavi, our guide and mentor. Seven 

nights, three national game reserves, one dark-green Land 

Cruiser and countless hours stalking the iconic wildlife of East 

Africa. 

Elephants, rinos, hippos cooling in muddy pools, gazelles 

of every sort, hyenas, jackals, massive herds of wildebeests 

migrating across endless emerald veldt, thousands of tubby 

zebras, warthogs, water buffalo, baboons. Eagles, ostriches, 

flamingos, storks; too many other birds to keep track. And 

giraffes -- their massive grace delighting us every time. 

But the cats are the safari stars. They attract Land Cruisers like 

bees to honey. They’re beautiful; they’re deadly. Baraka’s first 

safari rule: “You never get out of the truck. Wild animals are 

wild animals.” 


One day we were safari-ing in Ngorongoro when Baraka 

made a quick stop. Out of the low grassland that covers most 

of the 100-square-mile collapsed volcanic crater (one of Tanzania’s 

world wonders) a male lion, it’s massive head framed 

by a multicolored mane, sauntered up. 

“He’s just looking for water,” Baraka assured her, so matterof-factly 

he could have been ordering coffee. And, in fact, 

the lion walked by us, oblivious to potential hors d’oeuvres 

crossed the road, drank from a puddle of water then ambled 

off toward a nervous herd of wildebeests. 

Sauntered up to the Cruiser’s passenger side -- Jody’s side, 

the windows-rolled-down-side, the easy-bite-for-lunch side 

– until the Lion King was so close Jody could have reached 

down and scratched his head. “Baraka,” she said, leaning 

nervously back into the truck, “should I at least close the 

window?” 

Every big cat encounter is special. We saw lion cubs nursing 

and lions mating. (Ten seconds max, and no foreplay.) We 

saw a mama cheetah teaching her two cheetah kids to stalk 

a line of zebras in the Serengeti. We saw a leopard dragging a 

Thompson’s gazelle across a rain-swept grassland stopping 

every few yards to check for competitors and catch its breath. 

164 


But the highlight of the highlights came among the “kopjes” 

of southeast Serengeti. A “kopje” (a Dutch/Afrikaans word 

meaning “little head”) is an outcrop of ancient granite that 

sticks abruptly up out of the savannah. Kopjes are home to 

some unique African reptile species and are good vantage 

points for predators. 

After leaving our tented camp one morning we drove into a 

kopje complex and straight into the middle of a lion pride. We 

stopped by a house-sized boulder, leaned out of our popped 

roof and slowly turned 360, spotting lions all around us. We 

counted 11 males and females. All were lounging, sleeping or 

dozing, oblivious to our vehicle and us, looking like giant versions 

of our house cats. Right outside our truck lay a lioness. 

Jody leaned further out and the lioness opened her eyes. She 

stared at Jody, and Jody stared back. They stayed locked in that 

gaze for several minutes, until finally Jody looked away. “It was 

like she looked into my soul!” 

Love, 

John and Jody 

A cheetah on the hunt in the Serengeti 

plains; a lady lion looks us over in the 

“kopje” region of the Serengeti. 


“Glamping” in the Naona Maru tented camp 

in the Serengeti. 

Dear Ron, 

We sat down to dinner in a room with three oriental rugs, two 

chandeliers, white cloth napkins folded to look like giraffes 

and, of course, African-print table cloths. 

A young man came out of the kitchen, tapped on a glass and 

announced the menu: Pumpkin soup, followed by rice, green 

beans, chicken with a special “spicey sauce,” and, for dessert, 

a lemon tart. 

Ah. Just another night of “glamping” – that’s “glamorous 

camping” -- in Tanzania’s 5,700-square-mile Serengeti National 

Park. 

This particular “glamp” was called Naona Moru Camp– one 

in the Nasikia group – and consisted of eight regular-sized 

tents and two slightly bigger “honeymoon” tents with red 

light-bulbed chandeliers. “To create a romantic atmosphere,” 

manager Charles Mwanisawa explained to us. 

By “regular sized” tent we mean 40-by-20 feet plus a 10-foot 

covered front porch lit by three kerosene lanterns. Our regular 

tent was outfitted with mosquito-netted king-sized bed and 

166 


adjacent reading area with a writing desk, a separate bathroom, 

shower and toilet area stocked with fluffy bathrobes. 

A flashlight hung on a porch tent-pole outside. A couple of 

flashes and someone would come to escort us to the bar/ 

lounge tent or dining tent. “After dark it’s a good idea not to 

walk around,” Charles said, “We don’t want any surprises.” 

But there were no rifles at Naona Moru. Apparently, tourists 

are not on the predator menu. (We didn’t ask about potential 

zebra stampedes.) If there’s any trouble, Charles said, they call 

a nearby ranger camp. 

Naona Moru was part of our first all-inclusive trip. Usually we 

make all arrangements. Not this time. Our 13-day, 12-night 

Tanzania adventure involved lodging outside Arusha (near the 

base of Mt. Kilimanjaro), seven nights on safari, and five days/ 

four nights in Zanzibar, including a two-night stay at a beach 

resort. Throw in some tours and in-country flights and it was a 

logistical nightmare. 

Everybody we talked to -- even a friend who has lived on and 

off in Tanzania for 15 years and speaks Swahili – said, “Hire 

somebody.” So we handed the whole trip over to Infinite Safari 

Adventures and founder Alan Feldstein, a Tanzania specialist. 


We couldn’t afford the “luxury” level trip (one night at & Beyond 

Ngorongoro Crater Lodge, overlooking the crater, could 

set you back $1,700 per person or more) but we told Alan to 

do his best to organize and pamper us. And he did. We were 

picked up at Arusha and 13 days later dropped off at the Dar 

es Salaam airport. Everything in between was covered. Including, 

of course, glamping and the indelible sights and sounds 

of Naona Moru. 

Like coming back one afternoon in the rain and seeing the 

crew rush out with umbrellas to escort us in. Like the patter 

of rain on the tent or the thunder of zebras passing nearby 

during breakfast. Like sitting by the outdoor evening fire (they 

call it “bush TV”). Like a lesson in night sounds from crewman 

Sam Rajab, who identified for us hyenas and wildebeests and 

the deep coughing noise we heard at 5:30 one morning. “That 

was a lion’s roar,” he told us. “Your wake-up call.” 

Like dessert the second night that was delivered by the entire 

crew who formed a conga line and danced though the dining 

room tables singing “Malaika” and ending up with “Happy 

Birthday!” 

It was John’s 70th. 

We could get used to this. 

Love, 

John and Jody 

168 


Dear Ron, 

We met our safari guide Baraka Ng’wavi when we exited the 

Kilimanjaro airport. 

“Baraka means ‘a blessing,’ ” he told us with a wide smile. “You 

are blessed.” 

He was right. We were. 

We were about to embark on a private safari -- just one guide 

and the two of us. Eight days, seven nights. Yes, bucket list. 

Our outfitter, Infinite Safari Adventures, had assigned him to us. 

We had no idea what we would get. But the dice were rolled, they 

came up seven, and we raked in the chips. 

By the end of our week together Baraka had become not only 

our driver-guide, but also our naturalist, historian, linguist and 

sociologist. When we weren’t talking about the biological connections 

among Acacia trees, ethylene gas, and giraffes we were 

discussing Tanzanian infrastructure problems and its impact on 

Baraka’s plan for farming onions. 

As professional snoopers, we pestered him with questions but 

he never seemed to mind. He took on any subject, from the environmental 

impact of Masai cattle herds to hyenas to tribal boys 

with faces painted for circumcision ceremonies 

On the drive from the airport to our first night’s lodging outside 

the city of Arusha, we learned that Baraka was 40; he and his 

wife, Mary, had three kids; he had been a safari guide for 15 

years and with Infinite Safari Adventures for five. He had climbed 

Kilimanjaro more than 50 times. He had studied for three years 

at mechanic’s school and three more combining wildlife and 

hospitality. Ethnically, he was of the Hehe tribe from south-central 

Tanzania; he and Mary were devout Christians 

Impromptu animal biology lesson from our 

guide, Baraka Ng’wavi, in Tarangire National 

Park; line of migrating wildebeests in the 

Serengeti. 


He had a high-pitched chuckle and he chuckled frequently. 

He was a nerd about scientific biological terms. He was a big 

birder. He kept in contact with other guides by walkie-talkie 

radio and seemed to be acquainted with every guide in every 

truck. When he sensed we’d had enough of any one scene, 

he’d turn and say, “Shall we?” And off we’d go after another 

elephant or lion or pod of hippos. 

His animal radar was uncanny. Driving up out of Ngorongoro 

crater, he suddenly pulled over and stopped. “Do you see the 

leopard?” he asked, pointing to a steep forested slope at least 

200 yards away. What? No way! “Yes, at the crook of that tree, 

half way up.” 

Following his instructions we finally caught a glimpse using 

our camera’s zoom lens. We couldn’t believe he spotted it. 

“You planted it there,” we teased him with fake outrage. “It’s a 

stuffed leopard.” Then, of course, it moved. 

We pestered him for Swahili words. Our first lesson was “yes,” 

“no,” “hello,” and “goodbye” (“ndiyo,” “hapana,” “jambo,” and 

“kwaheri”). Later we added phrases like “chacula ni kitamu” 

(the food is tasty). And, of course, the names of animals: 

“simba” (lion), “twiga” (giraffe), “tembo” (elephant) and “punda” 

(zebra). 

In turn, he taught us a vocabulary of animal sounds. In case 

you ever want to call over a zebra, make a kind of bright “hoohoo” 

noise. 

By our fifth day together, we’re like three college roommates. 

We spend an hour over lunch at the entrance to Serengeti Na- 


Mud-caked rinos in Ngorongoro Crater; 

snoozing baby hippo lakeside in 

Ngorongoro; rampaging wildebeests in the 

Serengeti. 

tional Park discussing the future of Tanzania and his future in 

it. We advise him to forget the onions, (“vitunguu” in Swahili). 

What about spices? Exporting herbs? A line of spice-based 

cosmetics? 

We loved his enthusiasm. He once ended a mini lecture 

involving elephants, acacia tree bark, bug larva and woodpeckers 

with words that might have been his personal slogan: 

“Nature is so amazing.”” 

Our final safari day ended when Baraka drove us to a small 

airstrip somewhere in the Serengeti, where we were to catch 

an eight-seat prop job for a flight to Dar es Salaam. (Life in the 

African bush: prior to the landing rangers checked the runway 

for wildebeests.) 

It was time to say goodbye. But before we did we needed one 

last Swahili lesson. “Baraka,” John asked, “how do you say 

‘friend’?’” 

And one afternoon, after sighting zebras, zebras and more 

zebras (“punda wengi”) in Tarangire National Park we stopped 

to lunch by a river. Not 50 yards away from us were yet additional 

zebras. “I never get tired of the animals,” he said to us 

over sandwiches. “Every day it looks like new to me.” 

“Rafiki,” he answered. 

“OK, then. Kwaheri rafiki!” And we ran off to catch the flight. 

Love, 

John and Jody 


Photographer’s 

Holiday In Cuba 

THE FORBIDDEN ISLAND THROUGH THE LENS 

Story Maryanne McGuire and Ellen Federico 

Photography by Maryanne McGuire 

From the Jet Blue window it looked like most Carib- bean 

islands, but this island was Cuba, an outlawed destination 

for Americans until recently. My travelling companion and 

fellow photographer and I were living a life-long dream and we 

were beyond excited -- ten days in Cuba to experience the island 

and its people through the lens of our cameras. 

It was January and the weather was pleasant as we stepped off 

the plane Havana. It would remain that way until March when 

it would turn hot, humid and buggy. We navigated through the 

crowded customs and baggage pickup and exchanged our dollars 

for Cuban, jumped in a taxi and headed for our hotel. 

Old Havana was like diving into an Easter basket of confection 

colored architecture that mirrors its diverse social and political 

past. The Spanish, Greek, Italian, and Moorish colonial-style build- 

172 


ings were adorned with beautiful wrought iron, stonework, and 

elaborate mosaics. Music escaped sidewalk cafés and passing 

Classic 50’s- 60s’ cars waxed to a blinding colorful sheen and, as 

we would later discover, drivers with personalities that match. 

Castle of los Tres Reyes del Morro; the 

iconic landmark at the entrance of Havana 

Habor. 

Tip: The taxis to our hotel cost us 25 CUC -- fares start at flat 

rate of 1 CUC and runs 1 CUC each additional kilometer. Vintage 

taxis fares are negotiable. CUC currency (about 1 to 1). 


HAVANA 

Aromas of coffee and cigars wafted on the breeze as chil-dren 

ran about while nearby relatives played dominos. Instead of a 

traditional hotel we decided to find a cool neighborhood Casa 

Particular, a family owned home that provides accommodations – 

they can be recognized by a white sign on the door with two blue 

triangles (‘roofs’). 

We felt that staying at a family-owned Casa Particular would make 

it easier to develop genuine Cuban relation- ships and become involved 

in the local culture. We stayed at Casa El Arco, for 20 CUC 

per person per night. Our hosts were very gracious and the room 

was clean. Tip: If you decide on a traditional hotel, keep in mind 

that most five-star hotels in Cuba are more like three star properties 

in the States. 

174 


Street scenes in Old Havana. 

Bottom right: Plaza de San Francisco. 


176 


Happy Cubas around the Plaza de Cathedral. 

The first of the five central plazas in Old Havana was the cobblestoned 

Plaza Vieja where we let our camera shut- ters doing 

most of the talking! Not far from the Plaza Vieja is the Plaza de la 

Catedral, home to the Catedral de San Cristóbal, a grand symbol 

of La Habana Vieja. These plazas are flanked with gorgeous 18th 

century Cuban Baroque limestone mansions decorated with embedded 

local coral and seashells. 

A few steps from San Cristóbal, on Calle Empedrado is the 

legendary bar, La Bodeguita del Medio. It was small and packed 

with camera toting, mojito swilling tourists -- it would have surly 

annoyed it’s most famous customer Ernest Hemingway. At four 

Cuban bucks a pop the rum, sugar and mint drinks were very 

good, indeed. 

Strolling down the street from the bar is the Ambos Mun- dos 

Hotel, where Hemingway started writing his novel, “For Whom the 

Bell Tolls.” You can hear those church bells tolling all day in Havana. 


CUBAN COUNTRYSIDE 

Valle de Vinales 

Our journey from Havana to Vinales took about two and a half hours. We shared a taxi called 

Collectivos, an eight seat truck which cost us 20 dollars each. We had to wait about 20 minutes 

for others going to the same destination to fill the truck. Don’t be surprised if your taxi 

driver pulls to the side of the road to chat with friends and family. Our driver waived at pretty 

much everyone and even stopped a few times pulled over for a quick conversation. It didn’t 

bother us, as he delightfully entertained us, laughing and singing our way Vinales. 

Vinales is a beautiful, lush valley about 26 kilometres north of the city of Pinar del Río. It is said 

to be Fidel Castro’s favorite place in Cuba. No wonder, with its dramatic limestone, mountains 

called mogotes “haystacks”. It was ideal for photographing in the morning when a soft mist 

looms over the rounded peaks, or late afternoon when the sun bathes farm fields and orchards 

in golden light. Van Gogh would have been right at home here. 

178 



There are two types of food establishments in Cuba, state-run and private eateries 

called Paladares, also known as in-home restaurants. In Vinales the food and service 

at Paladares are generally very good. Check out Paladar La Pimiente for lunch, and my 

favorite restaurant was Tres Jotas ‘3J’ Tapas Bar with fun owner Salvador who made 

me his first dirty martini! 

Fields and colorful houses abound in 

Vinales 

Although Spain and Africa contributed most to Cuban cuisine, traditional dishes generally 

lack seasonings and sauces. The most common meals include those made with 

pork, chicken, rice, beans, tomatoes, and lettuce. Hot spices are rarely used in Cuban 

cooking. Fresh seafood is abundant and lobster is so popular it’s becoming endangered 

in Cuba. 



The the baths at ‘Baños of San Juan River’. 

and the e 20-dollar a night wicker and 

straw huts at the Las Terrazas Eco Resort, 

Candelaria, 

182 


Other traditional dishes are, fufú (boiled green bananas mashed 

into paste), and empanadas de carne (meat-filled pies). Popular 

desserts include flan, chu (puff pastries filled with meringue), and 

churrizo (fried doughnut rings). 

Our last night in the country was spent at the 20-dollar a night 

wicker and straw hut at the Las Terrazas Eco Resort, Candelaria, 

Artemisa Province. A 20-minute walk through gorgeous tropical 

foliage on cobblestone paths and bridges lead to the restaurant 

and the baths at ‘Baños of San Juan River’ popular with Cuban 

tourists who picnic along the riverbank. 

When friends at home asked where we stayed in Cuba, I show 

them photos of the huts on stilts to raised brows and, “Are you 

crazy!” - Maybe, but we felt safe and slept well. 


HAVANA 

Returning to Havana we were once again surrounded by color, church bells and music! 

Our last two nights in Cuba we spent in El Vedado, a central business district and urban 

neighborhood bordered on the east by Central Havana, and the west by the Miramar 

Playa (beach) district. Vedado is a modern part of Havana developed in the first half of 

the 20th century, during the Republic period. 

In the northern section is the 5-mile waterfront seawall known as the Malecon, a famous 

and popular roadway for social gatherings in the city. We walked the Malecon at sunset 

taking in beautiful views. The locals fished off the seawall, classic cars cruised by on the 

road lined with restaurants. 

184 


Classic cars cruise the Malecon and the 

music come out at night on the streest of 

Old Havana.. 


186 


Right: Oh what the walls could tell in The 

Classic cars always under repair on streests 

French House. 

of Old Havana.. 


The nearby Plaza de la Revolucion Square is where many political 

rallies take place. It was here that Fidel Castro frequently spoke to 

the Cuban people. The square is dominated by the 358-foot tall 

tower and 59-foot José Martí Memorial. 

We couldn’t leave Havana without an evening at the Buenavista 

Social Club. You can purchase tickets at the tourist bureau 60 

dollars for dinner/music. The food is not so great, but the music 

featuring some of the original Afro Cuban All Stars was fantastic. 

We were so inspired that we decided to take Salsa lessons -- a 

must for a true Cuban experience. 

On our last night we stayed at a Casa Particular across from 

La Colonial -- we fell in love with the amazing owners. In our 

very short time we felt like we had known them for years. Our 

flight was early; they woke with us at the crack of dawn, fed us 

breakfast, and drove us to the airport for a small fee. We hugged 

goodbye and they watched us waiving until they couldn’t see us. 

Like family saying goodbye to a loved one. We departed Cuba 

filled with love, wonder, and gratitude. 


Beautiful traffic on a historic Paseo del Prado. 

Right: 

At a cafe in Old Havana I watched mesmerized 

as two Cuban strangers paired off on the 

dance floor and moved in rhythm with a fevered 

passion that could have set the roof on 

fire! Music and dance is the life spirit of Cuba. 


IF YOU GO TO CUBA 

Tourism remains prohibited to Cuba, but new policies 

make it easier for Americans without family ties to 

travel to Cuba for a variety of reasons, including the 

“people-to-people” contacts, a category of permitted travel 

based on the idea that exchanges between people from 

the two countries will strengthen Cuban society. Americans 

can also go for religious purposes, conferences, public 

performances, or sporting events. Americans will still need 

to certify in writing they have a valid reason to travel to 

Cuba and retain records with receipts for five years per the 

Treasury Department. https://www.treasury.gov/resourcecenter/sanctions/Programs/Documents/cuba_faqs_new. 

pdf 

Documents for U.S. and non-Cuban foreign residents: 

1-You must have a valid U.S. passport for the entire length 

of your stay. 

2 - the Cuban government requires all visitors to have 

Cuban health insurance. When purchasing your Jet Blue 

ticket, health insurance is provided by ESICUBA and administered 

by Asistur automatically included in the cost of 

your airfare ($25 surcharge). Terms and conditions of this 

health insurance can be reviewed on the ESICUBA website: 

http://www.esicuba.cu/ProdPersonas.html 

3 - Citizens traveling to Cuba must obtain a visa prior to 

their arrival. A Cuban visa is also known as a tourist card. 

The Cuban visa is valid for a single entry and allows the 

holder a 30-day stay. The visa is a two-part card, Cuban 

immigration officials will take one half upon arrival, and 

guests will surrender the other half upon departure. A 

Cuban visa can be purchased from Jet Blue at a “gateway 

airport” (the final airport before departing the U.S.) for $50 

per person. 

Note: Travel to Cuba is easier to coordinate through a 

licensed Travel Agent. 

Cuban Currency: 

Peso Convertible - CUC - the main currency used by tourists. 

(Use this one!) 

Peso Cubano - CUP (or M.N - moneda nacional) - used by 

Cubans at ration stores. 

Currency Note: Exchange US Dollars for CUC at airport 

and count your CUC for accuracy! 

Credit Cards are usually NOT accepted outside hotels and 

major restaurants. 

Tipping: goes a long way in Cuba. Leaving a small tip of 1 

CUC can make a big difference. 

190 


Resorts/Hotels: We recommend tipping for good bellboys, 

maids and bar/restaurant staff. 

Musicians: Are found on every corner and playing in most 

restaurants, especially at dinner. Tip .50 CUC to 1 CUC 

when the hat comes around. 

Tour guides/drivers: 3 CUC per day. 

Restaurants: Tip 10% for standard service if not included- 

15% for excellent service. 

Taxis: 1 CUC is fine for short-haul trips, 10% for longer 

trips. 

Shopping: U.S. travelers can bring back $400 worth of 

goods and merchandise—but only up to $100 worth of 

alcohol and tobacco products. Additionally, ‘information 

materials,’ such as artwork, posters, music, movies, books, 

photos and the like can be purchased and brought home 

legally, with no limit on quantity or value. 

Photography Guidelines In Cuba: It is illegal to take a photograph 

of any military, police or airport personnel in Cuba. 

Enforcement of this law is erratic, but if you want to avoid 

speculation of spying or unpleasant interrogations from 

the authorities, just don’t get snap-happy in front of these 

officials. 

Packing Suggestion: Pack trinkets for Cuban children, crayons 

and little toys. It was fun to give presents. Nice to bring 

a few extra beauty novelties from the States, like lipsticks 

and nail polish in bright colors to give as thank you. Men 

enjoy U.S. baseball caps or tee shirts. 

Politics: Suggest you don’t discuss Cuban politics or religion 

so not to offend anyone. 

LINKS: 

https://www.cubaccommodation.com 

https://www.lonelyplanet.com/cuba 

https://www.traveladvisor.com 

For more information: 

Angela Polidor, Travel Specialist 

Phone: 858-551-9795 • Fax: 858.551.4025 • 

Visit: www.virtuoso.com/advisor/angelapolidor 

Joe Lagana, CTC | Global Account Manager 

PROTRAVEL INTERNATIONAL, LLC 

Direct: 646-747-9399 

Joe.lagana@protravelinc.com 

Cuban fashion highlights Plaza de la Cathedral. 


192 



194 



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196 

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WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE SUMMER 2017

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