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N16Life_SUMMER2017

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HACKNEY | SUMMER 2017<br />

free<br />

New Unity:<br />

Radically different<br />

on the inside<br />

ISTANBUL:<br />

two continents<br />

in two days<br />

Humans<br />

of N16<br />

The stories of<br />

strangers across<br />

Hackney<br />

The<br />

Home of<br />

Outdoor<br />

Sports:<br />

Stoke Newington<br />

The<br />

Delicious<br />

Guide to<br />

Hackney<br />

GLORIOUS<br />

SUMMER<br />

Make the most of the food, drink<br />

and action in our area


HACKNEY VENUES<br />

Hold your event in one of the<br />

most creative and thriving<br />

areas in London<br />

Hackney Venues has emerged as a collection of some of the<br />

most sought after event spaces in east London. Currently<br />

featuring seven beautifully restored unique venues in the<br />

heart of the borough including two stunning art-deco town<br />

halls, an eighteenth century mansion house inside of Clissold<br />

Park, a former water pumping station, a RIBA award-winning<br />

sporting centre as well as a purpose-built conference centre<br />

and a converted warehouse a stones-throw away from<br />

Shoreditch High Street. From private parties and stunning<br />

weddings to conferences, product launches, fashion shows<br />

and awards ceremonies; Hackney Venues offers a space for<br />

any occasion. Get in touch with our dedicated events team<br />

for further information or visit our website for more details.<br />

020 8356 5505 www.hackneyvenues.com venuehire@hackney.gov.uk<br />

HDS992


Summer 2017<br />

ISSUE #3<br />

29<br />

Andi Oliver is to open a restaurant<br />

in Stoke Newington<br />

18<br />

The home of outdoor water<br />

sports: Stoke Newington<br />

12<br />

HUMANS<br />

OF N16<br />

24<br />

22<br />

08<br />

42<br />

THE DELICIOUS GUIDE<br />

TO HACKNEY<br />

Radically different<br />

on the inside<br />

What's on<br />

THIS SUMMER<br />

Istanbul:<br />

in two days<br />

3


from the<br />

EDITOR<br />

Welcome to the summer issue of N16 Life.<br />

In this edition, you will read about the<br />

West Reservoir, a water sports centre<br />

close to Green Lanes, that had to be<br />

saved from being turned into a housing<br />

development in the 1980s. We spoke to<br />

the North London Sailing Association<br />

and The Castle Canoe Club, which have operated on the<br />

reservoir for many years.<br />

Another story is The New Unity church on Newington Green<br />

– and how it differs from just about every other church. If you<br />

don’t believe me, check out their slogan, “Believe in Good” – yep,<br />

that extra “o” is in there on purpose. Carrie O’Grady explains<br />

more in these pages.<br />

We also have our traditional selection of food and drink to<br />

sample from across N16’s unrivalled cuisine offering – just in<br />

time for the summer.<br />

Food writer and cook Yasemen Kaner-White shares lemony<br />

recipes from her book, Lemon Compendium. And if you’re set<br />

on learning something new, why not check out our course guide?<br />

As always, you'll find an extensive guide to what's on in your<br />

area, and highlights of the cultural events in London that you<br />

mustn't miss.<br />

See you in September, and enjoy the summer!<br />

EDITORIAL<br />

EDITOR<br />

Yasemin Bakan<br />

SUB EDITOR<br />

Michael Daventry<br />

PICTURE EDITOR<br />

Mehmet Er<br />

DESIGN<br />

Ekrem Yilmaz<br />

CONTRIBUTORS<br />

Carrie O’Grady<br />

Gianfranco Casula<br />

ADVERTISING<br />

ADVERTISING/CREATIVE<br />

SOLUTIONS<br />

Özlem Bulut<br />

ADVERTISING<br />

ENQUIRIES<br />

CALL<br />

020 3652 0541<br />

07459 501 545<br />

E-MAIL<br />

info@n16life.com<br />

Join the conversation:<br />

N16 Life is on Facebook<br />

N16 Life<br />

www.n16life.com<br />

N16 Life is a quarterly magazine<br />

distributed to more than 20,000<br />

homes and businesses in N16 and<br />

the surrounding areas.<br />

It is also available in local cafes, pubs,<br />

libraries and supermarkets<br />

in Hackney.<br />

Yasemin Bakan<br />

Editor<br />

Published by Metropol Media Ltd<br />

Metropol Media Ltd cannot accept<br />

responsibility for unsolicited<br />

submissions, manuscripts and<br />

photographs. While every care is<br />

taken, prices and details are<br />

subject to change and Metropol<br />

Media Ltd take no responsibility<br />

for omissions or errors.<br />

All rights reserved.<br />

4


THE BIRDCAGE<br />

BAR + KITCHEN<br />

58 Stamford Hill, London N16 6XS<br />

thebirdcageN16.co.uk • @thebirdcageN16<br />

Tel: 020 8806 9077


SPOTLIGHT<br />

Hackney ON<br />

@amygrrr<br />

Some of our favourite<br />

images taken by you<br />

around the town! Tag your<br />

Hackney pictures using<br />

@n16lifemagazine<br />

@weimiaolu<br />

@caslan12<br />

@willied000<br />

@duygulaki77<br />

CLISSOLD PARK<br />

5KM RACES<br />

theraceorganiser.com<br />

Three summer evening 5km races<br />

in Clissold Park offering runners a<br />

chance to run off that working day in<br />

a beautiful park. All runners receive<br />

a goody bag. All abilities welcome.<br />

13th June; 11th July; 8th August 2017<br />

Individual Race £12, 3 Races £30<br />

6


Brasserie<br />

Only the freshest and<br />

top quality ingredients<br />

Open daily for breakfast, lunch & dinner<br />

60 Newington Green, London, N16 9PX<br />

info@cafeacoustic.co.uk • 020 7288 1235<br />

www.cafeacoustic.co.uk


WHAT'S ON<br />

this summer<br />

N16 Life’s unrivalled guide to the<br />

theatre, music, outdoor events and<br />

children’s activities in Hackney<br />

and across London in the warmer<br />

months of 2017<br />

America’s finest:<br />

Dr Dog<br />

oslohackney.com<br />

An American rock band from Pennsylvania, Dr.<br />

Dog, comes to London for just two shows.<br />

The band's musical styling of indie rock is<br />

strongly influenced by bands of the 1960s, such as<br />

The Beatles and The Beach Boys, but they have also<br />

touched upon more unrelated genres since their<br />

inception.<br />

Wednesday 28th June 2017 | Doors at 19:30<br />

Tickets £15.40<br />

East side stories:<br />

Londoners in transition<br />

ucl.ac.uk/library/exhibitions/east-side-stories<br />

his exhibition at UCL<br />

considers East London’s<br />

T<br />

long and fascinating<br />

history of regeneration and<br />

change, as the metropolis<br />

expanded and new communities<br />

emerged over the centuries. It<br />

illustrates the movement from<br />

rural to urban, everyday lives from<br />

schooldays to work, and the good<br />

intentions of the social reformers.<br />

Featuring items from eighteenth<br />

century maps to the proof copy of<br />

George Orwell’s 'Confessions of a<br />

Down and Out in London and Paris<br />

by X’, it draws on the extensive<br />

London History, Jewish and<br />

Education collections and archives<br />

held by UCL Library Services.<br />

Free entry<br />

Monday-Friday, 9.30am-5pm,<br />

until Fri 15 Dec 2017<br />

UCL Main Library (Wilkins<br />

Building), London WC1E 6BT<br />

Theatre and<br />

comedy combined<br />

hoxtonhall.co.uk<br />

Phantasmagoria Cabaret is an unashamed<br />

celebration of theatre and comedy, which<br />

examines the issue of flitting between the real<br />

and inauthentic self.<br />

Patrizia Paolini and the three gorgeous girls of Jesus<br />

Paolini Park, plus guest artists of remarkable caliber<br />

make Phantasmagoria cabaret a highly engaging<br />

and original experience, in their third appearance at<br />

Hoxton Hall.<br />

Saturday 22nd July; 20:00<br />

£12<br />

8


culture<br />

OLIVER TWIST<br />

CREATED FOR<br />

EVERYONE AGED<br />

SIX AND OVER<br />

openairtheatre.com<br />

Adapted by Anya Reiss from the<br />

novel by Charles Dickens Directed<br />

by Caroline Byrne. Discover the<br />

original story of Victorian London's<br />

most famous child with Oliver Twist<br />

created for everyone aged six and<br />

over. It will have you on the edge of<br />

your seat and wanting more.<br />

Monday 17 July - Saturday 5 August<br />

All tickets £18<br />

DALSTON<br />

YOGA<br />

dalstonyoga.co.uk<br />

Dalston Yoga is based in the centre<br />

of Dalston, in a building constructed<br />

in the 1800s that was originally<br />

a Hackney Cab Stable. Paulene<br />

Morphett is the founder of and<br />

primary teacher at Dalston Yoga.<br />

She was introduced to yoga whilst<br />

at university, has been practicing<br />

steadily for 25 years and teaching for<br />

the last twelve.<br />

The studio space is airy and open<br />

with natural skylight.<br />

Single class £12<br />

INK<br />

almeida.co.uk<br />

INK a new play by James Graham<br />

directed by Rupert Goold<br />

Fleet Street. 1969. The Sun rises. James<br />

Graham’s ruthless, red-topped new play<br />

leads with the birth of this country’s most<br />

influential newspaper – when a young and<br />

rebellious Rupert Murdoch asked the<br />

impossible and launched its first editor’s<br />

quest, against all odds, to give the people<br />

what they want.<br />

Saturday 17 June – Saturday 5 August<br />

17 Jun - 23 Jun £32, £28, £20, £10<br />

24 Jun - 5 Aug £39.50, £32, £20, £10<br />

CAMPFIRE<br />

CLUB<br />

woodberrywetlands.org.uk<br />

A concert like no other…<br />

unamplified, outdoors and round<br />

a fire; surely this is the only way to<br />

really hear music. Since the dawn of<br />

song, by the flickering embers and<br />

starry skies all walks of man and<br />

woman have gathered in song and<br />

celebration, to tell the stories and<br />

while away an evening.<br />

16 June, 21 July, 18 August & 15<br />

September, from 7pm<br />

Tickets £10<br />

AGAINST<br />

almeida.co.uk<br />

Ben Whishaw returns to the Almeida<br />

in AGAINST, a gripping new<br />

play about how we come to know<br />

ourselves honestly by Christopher Shinn,<br />

directed by Ian Rickson.<br />

Silicon Valley. The future. A rocket<br />

launches. Luke is an aerospace billionaire<br />

who can talk to anyone. But God is<br />

talking to him. He sets out to change the<br />

world. Only violence stands in his way.<br />

Christopher Shinn’s gripping new play,<br />

directed by Ian Rickson, features Ben<br />

Whishaw as Luke. Against is designed by<br />

Ultz. Casting is by Sophie Holland.<br />

Saturday 12 Aug - Saturday 30 Sept<br />

9


Live at the Chapel<br />

with Ed Byrne<br />

The monthly spectacle at the stunning<br />

gothic Union Chapel returns with another<br />

extraordinary line up; Observational comedy<br />

master Ed Byrne headlines the July show, star of<br />

Mock The Week, Live At The Apollo, Have I Got<br />

News For You & many more.<br />

Saturday 1 July , 18:30 Room: Chapel<br />

£20 adv<br />

FOR THE KIDS<br />

Romeo & Juliet: the story to<br />

break a thousand hearts<br />

southbankcentre.co.uk<br />

ee Shakespeare’s heartbreaking<br />

tale paired with<br />

S<br />

Nureyev’s blazing ballet.<br />

English National Ballet brings the<br />

world’s greatest love story to Royal<br />

Festival Hall with Rudolf Nureyev’s<br />

passionate choreography and<br />

Prokofiev’s exhilarating score<br />

performed live by English National<br />

Ballet Philharmonic.<br />

Full of action, humour and<br />

drama, Nureyev’s award-winning<br />

production of Romeo and<br />

Juliet was created especially for<br />

English National Ballet in 1977<br />

to celebrate the Queen’s Silver<br />

Jubilee. The Company has since<br />

performed it worldwide to critical<br />

acclaim.<br />

Royal Festival Hall<br />

1 Aug 2017 - 5 Aug 2017<br />

£12 - £55<br />

ALEENA’S GARDEN<br />

littleangeltheatre.com<br />

Aleena’s Garden is a perfect first theatre<br />

experience for very young children. Join<br />

Aleena in her beautiful garden, help bring<br />

the seeds to life, meet the animals that live there,<br />

watch the flowers bloom, the trees blossom and the<br />

seasons change.<br />

Aleena’s Garden is aimed at ages 4 months to 3<br />

years. Babies need a ticket from 4 months.<br />

Thurs 15 & Fri 16 June<br />

£10 Full-price Adults<br />

£8 Children / Babies (from 4 months)<br />

and Concessions<br />

BOBBIN<br />

littleangeltheatre.com<br />

Meet Bobbin, the mischievous<br />

spirit of a shoemaker’s workshop,<br />

who is always ready to explore,<br />

discover and make new friends.<br />

This is his first night in a strange<br />

new world and there is so much to<br />

do he might just need your help!<br />

An interactive, wordless show for<br />

young children, based on ‘The Elves<br />

and the Shoemaker’, Bobbin is<br />

full of Tea Break’s trademark<br />

comedy, invention and imagination.<br />

Step inside the workshop for a<br />

miniature, magical adventure!<br />

Bobbin is aimed at ages 2-6.<br />

Mon 7 – Thurs 10 Aug<br />

£10 Full-price Adults<br />

£8 Children (age 1 – 15) and<br />

Concessions<br />

FOR THE KIDS<br />

10


culture<br />

New music<br />

showcase with<br />

an Arab twist<br />

cafeoto.co.uk<br />

Presented in collaboration with Supersonic<br />

Festival this musical showcase by Nawa<br />

Recordings features some of the Arab world’s<br />

most creative, independent and forward thinking<br />

artists. Founded by multi-instrumentalist<br />

musician and composer Khyam Allami in<br />

2011, Nawa is an independent label focused on<br />

releasing new music from the Arab world.<br />

Having released critically acclaimed albums by<br />

Maurice Louca, Alif, The Dwarfs of East Agouza<br />

and Allami’s soundtrack to Tunisian director<br />

Leyla Bouzid’s award winning debut feature film<br />

As I Open My Eyes, the label brings its newest<br />

artists to the UK for the first time in a genredefying<br />

and eclectic quadruple-bill.<br />

Monday 19 June 2017, 7.30<br />

£20<br />

FRIENDSFEST AT<br />

CLISSOLD PARK<br />

friendsfest.co.uk/clissold-park-london<br />

Following last year's sell out tour, award-winning<br />

Comedy Central UK's Friendsfest returns this summer<br />

for a 12-week tour of the UK, including nine days in<br />

London’s Clissold Park.<br />

Brand new features for 2017 include a full-scale Joey<br />

& Chandler apartment set, as well as never-beforeseen<br />

memorabilia and props from the show. There's<br />

also the best of the fest from previous years, including<br />

Monica & Rachel's apartment, Recreate the Titles, Ross<br />

& Rachel's Vegas chapel of love, the chance to grab a<br />

coffee in Central Perk, something to eat in Monica's<br />

Moondance Diner and a drink at the Chick & Duck Bar...<br />

There's also a special Friendsfest shop on site, offering<br />

exclusive memorabilia and merchandise.<br />

FriendsFest will be at Clissold Park,<br />

September 15–September 24; Tickets £26<br />

Bespoke wedding and birthday cakes<br />

made to order - Viennoiseries -<br />

- French bread - Chocolates -<br />

- Macaroons<br />

www.belleepoque.co.uk<br />

Newington boutique<br />

N16<br />

020 7249 2222<br />

Islington boutique<br />

N1<br />

020 8001 8295<br />

Selfridges<br />

W1<br />

11


Humans<br />

of N16<br />

Inspired by Humans of New York, N16 Life<br />

records the stories of strangers across Hackney.<br />

Here are the latest Humans of N16.<br />

Photos MEHMET ER<br />

DAVID S. BLANCO<br />

I moved to Stoke Newington in 2011 with<br />

my wife from neighbouring Highbury and<br />

Islington where I had lived most of my<br />

life. I spent a lot of time as a teenager in<br />

Stoke Newington and have witnessed the<br />

transformation of the neighbourhood.<br />

I started Blank Editions primarily as a<br />

vehicle for artists in and around Hackney<br />

to release music in a very streamlined<br />

way and document the collaborative<br />

spirit happening in and around our<br />

neighbourhood.<br />

We release a variety of genres, but<br />

I guess what makes many of these<br />

recordings somewhat unique is down to<br />

the fact many of our releases either share<br />

recording facilities or members who have<br />

collaborated in some capacity at some<br />

point in the past. The local connections<br />

allows artists to develop a friendship, and<br />

work in ways that feel transparent and<br />

natural, without contracts and lawyers.<br />

Despite the size of the label, which is<br />

small, it feels right to work that way.<br />

Some of our releases have had a very<br />

focused narrative relating to N16. For<br />

example, our first release from Thurston<br />

Moore, whose A side, entitled Detonation,<br />

was a homage of sorts to the Angry<br />

Brigade, a revolutionary group that<br />

operated from a house in Amhurst Road<br />

in the 1970s.<br />

In January of this year, we released<br />

material by a Stoke Newington based<br />

artist working under the name Bark!<br />

Dead Summer. The EP was called<br />

Wanderings, which was a direct homage<br />

to the remains of the New River and the<br />

Piano Factory that once stoodin what is<br />

now Red Square, just off Carysfort Road<br />

where the label was originally founded.<br />

In 2014, we put out a solo 7” by Yuki<br />

Tsujii from the Hackney based band,<br />

Bo Ningen, Yuki’s solo record had a leaf<br />

taken from Clissold Park and inserted<br />

into each package along with the record<br />

itself, these records were then shipped all<br />

over the world.<br />

We had to get clearance from the<br />

embassies to find out if they allowed this<br />

kind of vegetation into their countries.<br />

It’s funny to think that there are leaves<br />

from Clissold Park in quite a few<br />

countries around the world due to this<br />

release.<br />

We put our first record out in March<br />

2012 and have released 26 so far with a<br />

pretty busy schedule ahead including a<br />

fifth year birthday event on 23 June at<br />

Blundell Street Studios.<br />

12


STORIES<br />

we put out a solo 7” by Yuki Tsujii from<br />

the Hackney based band, Bo Ningen,<br />

Yuki’s solo record had a leaf taken<br />

from Clissold Park and inserted into<br />

each package along with the record<br />

itself, these records were then<br />

shipped all over the world.<br />

Müge Çetinkaya<br />

I was born in Karabük, Turkey, where I spent<br />

the most magnificent years of my childhood<br />

until about 12 years old.<br />

My parents were both civil servants. I used<br />

to visit my mother at work and loved playing<br />

games behind the counter, imitating her and<br />

her colleagues working with typewriters and<br />

doing fast calculations with Facit calculators.<br />

One of the first pieces of advice I was given<br />

was “if you have an apple, halve it, and then<br />

give the bigger piece to your friend”. I always<br />

do.<br />

After my parents’ divorce in 1986, I moved<br />

to Izmit with my mother and little sister. Such<br />

events teach you to take responsibility, like<br />

taking care of my sister while our mother<br />

was at work. I was interested in everything<br />

to protect the environment and nature. I was<br />

very good at literature and that’s why I still am<br />

very fond of writing. I have a blog but I admit<br />

that I am a bit lazy focusing on it.<br />

At 17, I joined a local theatre group. I had<br />

made great friends there with still ongoing<br />

strong connections. Unfortunately, I could not<br />

carry on acting much longer as the same year<br />

because I was diagnosed with Systemic Lupus,<br />

an illness where person’s immune system<br />

goes to overdrive and attacks its own organs<br />

and tissues. It manifests itself differently and<br />

it can have a big impact in their life. Let's just<br />

say I learned well how to manage it.<br />

I am a graduate of Ankara University,<br />

Department of Sociology. After a few<br />

filmmaking short courses in London, I studied<br />

Broadcast Post-Production and worked for<br />

several media and broadcast companies and<br />

organisations such as BBC London and MTV<br />

Europe.<br />

I now mostly work independently on project<br />

based roles; co-ordinating international<br />

media for some film festivals, PR for theatre<br />

plays, voluntary works for NGOs; the British<br />

Lung Foundation and Greenpeace UK.<br />

Home is the most important place in the<br />

world. I can easily say that a lot of my friends<br />

also feel a little lost in London even after long<br />

years living and working here. Everybody<br />

loves to go to their home eventually.<br />

I hit a low when I lost my mother in 2008<br />

but the 2013 Gezi Park upheavals fanned the<br />

flame. I genuinely want everything to be a lot<br />

better in Turkey and one day plan to go back<br />

for good. For now, I miss Turkey when I am<br />

here and when I am there, I miss London. But<br />

in London nothing managed to fill the gap<br />

in my life which once was loaded with full of<br />

unconditional love given me by my Turkish<br />

family and friends.<br />

13


Elinor Huggett<br />

I was born in Cornwall, and studied Mathematics in<br />

Bath before moving to London seven years ago to do<br />

a Master’s degree in Environmental Design. I've been<br />

living in the N16 area for more than five years now,<br />

and absolutely love it – it really feels like a community<br />

within the city.<br />

I got into swing dancing about five years ago (a<br />

friend suggested it and I got hooked!), so when I heard<br />

about the beginning of SwingTrain I thought it was<br />

a brilliant idea. I love that it's accessible to everyone,<br />

no matter their age, fitness levels or abilities, and I<br />

work hard to make sure that everyone who comes to<br />

my classes enjoys it. The SwingTrain movements are<br />

inspired by the vintage street dances of Charleston,<br />

lindy hop, and shag, and they take place to the elating<br />

sounds of swing, gospel, rhythm & blues and jazz.<br />

The classes are for everyone! Regardless of age,<br />

fitness or ability, my goal is always to make sure people<br />

have a great time, get moving, and leave with a smile<br />

on their face - no previous dance or fitness experience<br />

required! The full body exercises work legs, arms, and<br />

core, as well as developing coordination and mental<br />

agility through memorable routines.<br />

At the end of class I always have a stream of people<br />

walking past me, grinning and saying how much fun<br />

they've had. I always tell people from the outset that<br />

my priority is that they have fun - and it seems to<br />

work! It's amazing to think people can burn up to 500<br />

calories in an hour and hardly even realise it.<br />

Jane Edwards<br />

I was born in Islington and moved to Stoke Newington<br />

when I was one and spent my childhood growing up here. Lots<br />

of my childhood memories are from times of playing over<br />

Clissold park, swimming at Clissold park baths and I loved<br />

spending lots of my time at The Shakespeare Walk adventure<br />

playground.<br />

I always dreamed of being a hairdresser so as soon as I left<br />

school I got a job in a salon off Newington Green signing up for<br />

a youth training scheme for 2 years.<br />

I stayed there for a year and then had the opportunity in<br />

1988 to come and work for the former owner of this salon Mark<br />

Starr, who was a fantastic haircutter with a big personality.<br />

Mark trained me over the next few years and I stayed working<br />

with him for 18 years before I left to venture out on new things.<br />

Three years passed and then I was given the terrible news<br />

that Mark had passed away suddenly and I was then given the<br />

opportunity to take over the business.<br />

With a big push from my partner to go for it, I can happily say<br />

I have just celebrated eight years of business this March with<br />

ongoing support from clients new and old and also my amazing<br />

stylist Michelle who I meet at hairdressing college all those<br />

years ago.<br />

Stoke Newington is an amazing place and I have seen so<br />

many changes over the years.<br />

I still have clients that I started cutting when I was training<br />

nearly thirty years ago, including three generations of families<br />

and young kids who are now in their thirties, some even<br />

traveling from as far as Bath and even Greece.<br />

The shop is tucked away in a lovely road behind Church<br />

St and the high street. It has been a hairdressers for over 30<br />

years. Previously it was a dairy called Akam & Sons and still<br />

boasts original features including a huge marble slab in the<br />

window, which I love to decorate throughout the year and is<br />

adored by locals and many children who look forward to seeing<br />

what's coming next.<br />

I love being a part of this lovely community and hope to<br />

continue to work here for many years to come.<br />

14


STORIES<br />

We are great<br />

advocates of<br />

learning through<br />

play, as we truly<br />

believe this is where<br />

the value lies for<br />

children under the<br />

age of five.<br />

Kiki Linton-Aspinall<br />

I am a proud Londoner, born and raised in<br />

Islington, just opposite the beautiful New River<br />

Walk. In 1997 my mum started a new job managing<br />

a nursery in Stoke Newington, and after finishing<br />

secondary school in Marylebone, each day I would<br />

get the number 73 bus from Angel right to the<br />

end of its route. This is where my love for Stoke<br />

Newington was born. It was inevitable that once<br />

I permanently flew the nest I found myself in a<br />

four-bedroom house share in Stoke Newington. It<br />

was close to my parents, close to the bright lights<br />

of Dalston and close to my job, which at the time<br />

was managing N16 Playgroup.<br />

After running N16 Playgroup for five years,<br />

I realised that there was a need for a full day<br />

nursery in Stoke Newington to cater to the<br />

growing young population. It was then that I<br />

decided to open N16 Tots. Based on Defoe Road,<br />

N16 Tots is a small nursery with a wonderful sense<br />

of community and home-like feel. Our main ethos<br />

is that by being a small nursery we help each child<br />

to feel that they are special. I personally know<br />

each and every child and parent that is part of our<br />

nursery, which means I am best placed to ensure<br />

that everybody’s needs are being met.<br />

I have always enjoyed working with children;<br />

I attended a Montessori primary school as a<br />

child, and my mum is also a qualified Montessori<br />

teacher. This meant that from an early<br />

age, I was encouraged to pursue my<br />

own interests, which usually resulted in<br />

spending time in the nursery, helping to<br />

feed the children and put them to sleep.<br />

These experiences directly shaped the<br />

path that I took later in life. Although<br />

we do not call ourselves a Montessori<br />

nursery, the underlying principles of<br />

Montessori undoubtedly shape the way<br />

N16 Tots and N16 Playgroup operate. We<br />

are great advocates of learning through<br />

play, as we truly believe this is where<br />

the value lies for children under the age<br />

of five. We encourage all children to be<br />

independent, and help them to explore<br />

their own interests, all whilst having a<br />

brilliant time!<br />

When I go out in Stokey I love<br />

frequenting the pubs, restaurants and<br />

the nightlife of Dalston – usually all on the<br />

same evening – rounded off with a 2am<br />

amble to the one and only Best Kebab.<br />

I love working in Stoke-Newington.<br />

I love the diversity, the village-like<br />

appeal, and the sense of belonging<br />

to a community. I really hope that as<br />

new residents move into the area,<br />

they will continue to support the small<br />

independent businesses that truly make<br />

Stoke Newington the wonderful and<br />

amazing place it is today.<br />

15


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PROPERTY<br />

N16 postcode still<br />

offers good value<br />

to tenants with<br />

the average price<br />

for a two bedroom<br />

apartment around<br />

£470 per week<br />

N16: a strong<br />

market for tenants<br />

Daren Haysom, Foxtons’ area director for<br />

northeast London, explains why Stoke Newington,<br />

Dalston and Hackney remain highly attractive -<br />

and affordable - for people wanting to rent<br />

Unlike the sales market,<br />

which can be heavily<br />

influenced by a number<br />

of external factors, the<br />

lettings market is mainly<br />

led by demand. In Stoke<br />

Newington and the rest<br />

of the N16 postcode, demand remains<br />

strong. With a high rate of renewals<br />

and limited stock available, the ratio of<br />

potential tenants per property on our<br />

books at present averages 12:1.<br />

Due to their property portfolio<br />

comprising predominantly of Victorian<br />

family homes with three bedrooms and<br />

up, the Stoke Newington, Dalston and<br />

Hackney areas attract a high number<br />

of families and professional sharers.<br />

Stoke Newington’s vibrant high street<br />

with its wide array of independent<br />

amenities, including world-renowned<br />

L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele and<br />

locals’ favourites such as The Good<br />

Egg and Zona coffee shop, can rival<br />

the more established high street in<br />

Islington. N16 is known for its good<br />

sense of community and family-friendly<br />

atmosphere, sought-after primary<br />

schools such as Grasmere and William<br />

Patten, and easy access to London’s<br />

financial districts, all adding to the<br />

appeal of the area.<br />

The N16 postcode still offers good<br />

value to tenants, with the average price<br />

for a two bedroom apartment around<br />

£470 per week, which is approximately<br />

15% lower than in the nearby Highbury<br />

and Islington areas. The corporate<br />

lettings market is also well-developed<br />

in and around N16, a popular area for<br />

insurance companies to temporarily rehome<br />

their clients on a short-term basis.<br />

Another point of difference in the N16<br />

lettings market is that 95% of its landlord<br />

base consist of either small-scale private<br />

landlords or “accidental landlords”, those<br />

with only one property to let that came<br />

into their possession by circumstance<br />

(couples moving in together, family<br />

inheritance etc.) rather than as a planned<br />

investment purchase. This ensures a<br />

higher standard of properties to let, as<br />

many landlords have taken pride and care<br />

in the place they used to call home, which<br />

in return benefits tenants.<br />

The latter becomes especially<br />

important in light of the new regulations<br />

effective from 6 April this year, which<br />

will see a 25% reduction in mortgage<br />

interest relief on additional properties,<br />

gradually set to increase to 100% by<br />

2020. This will bring into perspective the<br />

value of an increase in rent in comparison<br />

to tenant retention to avoid the void<br />

period between tenancies. Our advice to<br />

landlords is that tenant care has never<br />

been more important; similarly, most<br />

tenants want security of tenure for at<br />

least a few years, therefore establishing<br />

good relationships from the outset is<br />

beneficial for both parties.<br />

The London lettings market is getting<br />

ready for its busiest time of the year,<br />

usually between May and September, and<br />

we expect the market in N16 to perform<br />

strongly on a par with the previous year.<br />

28-30 Stoke Newington<br />

Church Street<br />

Stoke Newington,<br />

London N16 0LU<br />

020 3728 2100<br />

foxtons.co.uk<br />

17


18


FEATURE<br />

The home of<br />

outdoor water sports:<br />

stoke<br />

newington<br />

by Yasemin BAKAN<br />

photos mehmet er<br />

Surprised? Yes, Hackney<br />

isn’t the first place that<br />

comes to mind you think<br />

about outdoor water sports.<br />

But just behind the Castle<br />

on Green Lanes, Stoke<br />

Newington, is a place that<br />

offers precisely that.<br />

Sailing, canoeing, kayaking and openair<br />

swimming are all available here at the<br />

West Reservoir Centre.<br />

The reservoirs of Stoke Newington<br />

were built in the 19th century to supply a<br />

growing capital city’s water needs. They<br />

opened in 1833 to take clean water from<br />

the New River and store it as a clean<br />

water reserve.<br />

When the Thames Water Authority<br />

announced it no longer required the<br />

facility in 1985, it was marked up for sale.<br />

A local residents’ campaign – Save Stoke<br />

Newington Reservoirs and Filter Beds –<br />

swung into action.<br />

Rescuing the reservoirs<br />

The campaigners found themselves<br />

combatting plans to create a<br />

hypermarket on the site and, with the<br />

absence of social media, had to run<br />

petitions, fundraising raffles, stalls and<br />

closely-argued letters in an effort to get<br />

their message heard.<br />

The campaign was partially successful:<br />

the West and East Reservoirs were saved<br />

from development but not the filter beds,<br />

which were allocated to housing. There<br />

were tears and joy at the same time.<br />

A decade later in 1996, Hackney Council<br />

bought the western reservoir from the<br />

now-privatised Thames Water and began<br />

work to convert it into a water sports<br />

centre. With the help of National Lottery<br />

funds, it opened in 2003 as a leisure.<br />

Today it is located on 30 acres of water,<br />

offering courses and activities in sailing,<br />

kayaking, canoeing and other water<br />

sports for all for schools and community<br />

groups, as well as adults and young<br />

people. The centre is recognised by both<br />

the British Canoe and the Royal Yachting<br />

Association.<br />

Give it a go yourself<br />

Freddie Lovejoy, senior water sports<br />

coach, said those adults who learn to<br />

paddle at the centre will also have the<br />

opportunity to take part in activities<br />

outside the city. There will also be multiactivity<br />

weeks during the summer to<br />

introduce children to water sports.<br />

19


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FEATURE<br />

“These are usually most children’s<br />

introduction to the water sports and is<br />

all based around having fun and trying<br />

something new,” he says. “These become<br />

popular in the summer in particular.”<br />

Paddling in the sunset<br />

One of the most active groups at the West<br />

Reservoir Centre is the Castle Canoe<br />

Club, which was set up in 2000.<br />

"It is a place saved by the community<br />

for the community,” says Peter Emery,<br />

the club’s chair. “I feel that Castle Canoe<br />

Club fills in where London can lack. We<br />

have a hugely diverse membership of<br />

people that would not otherwise not<br />

meet. There’s a running joke in the club<br />

that we’re a floating social club.<br />

“We arrange trips to beautiful places<br />

around the country and beyond, often to<br />

places where members have never been<br />

before. You get a hundred new friends<br />

as part of your membership fee. Some<br />

members love high octane white water<br />

while others just like to cruise down<br />

serene rivers and our polo players are<br />

playing in national competitions.<br />

“The finest way to unwind in zone 2 has<br />

to be paddling in the sunset on a Tuesday<br />

night after work around the reservoir.”<br />

Kayaking, canoeing<br />

Kayaking and canoeing for adults takes<br />

place all year round every Sunday<br />

between 10am and 1pm, and additionally<br />

There’s a running<br />

joke in the club that<br />

we’re a floating<br />

social club<br />

on a Tuesday night between 6pm and<br />

8pm from April to October.<br />

Club welfare officer Kate Dornan says<br />

anyone interested in becoming a member<br />

should do an induction session: “These<br />

are fortnightly and cover the basics of<br />

health and safety as well as paddling<br />

technique.<br />

“The cost is £10 for the session plus a<br />

couple of weeks' paddling while inductees<br />

decide whether to join us for the year.<br />

Membership currently costs £105 per<br />

year, with concessions available as well as<br />

reduced joining fees later in the year.”<br />

Dates and further information<br />

are available on the club’s website,<br />

castlecanoeclub.co.uk. Castle Canoe Club<br />

members get a discounted rate on the<br />

centre’s lessons.<br />

Set sail on the waters<br />

The club also organises field trips around<br />

London – or even out of the country. Sea<br />

kayaking on the Thames, paddling, river<br />

trips, and kayak surfing are combined<br />

with annual trips to Ireland and the Alps.<br />

There’s also a polo team that competes in<br />

regional and national leagues, and hosts a<br />

tournament on the West Reservoir twice<br />

annually.<br />

There is a sailing group here – the<br />

North London Sailing Association,<br />

headed by Caroline Brown – although it<br />

does not offer NLSA sailing courses, and<br />

members must have a level 2 qualification<br />

from the West Reservoir Centre (or an<br />

equivalent) before joining.<br />

“Members don't need to have their own<br />

boats as they can use the boats owned by<br />

the West Reservoir Centre,” Brown says.<br />

“There are a mix of double and single<br />

hander boats. We also have a coastal base<br />

at Brightlingsea Essex, where we own<br />

a small property and 6 wayfarer boats.<br />

During the summer months, we run<br />

cruising weekends, some more advanced<br />

training (seamanship skills and level 3)<br />

and also have a camping weekend.”<br />

Membership is for £140 for adults<br />

and £70 for children per annum. For<br />

further information, check their website:<br />

northlondonsailing.org<br />

The Youth Club, provides young people<br />

between 8-17 years old the opportunity<br />

to participate in dinghy sailing, kayaking<br />

and canoeing. Membership is for £102 per<br />

annum.<br />

21


Radically<br />

different on<br />

the inside<br />

by Carrie O’Grady<br />

‘<br />

Believe in Good’, says<br />

the sign outside the<br />

church. Hang on, isn’t<br />

that an extra ‘o’ in there?<br />

It isn’t, oddly enough.<br />

The New Unity, on the<br />

north side of Newington<br />

Green, is not like other churches: they<br />

don’t believe in God, heaven and hell,<br />

saints’n’sinners, or any of the other<br />

theological trappings we associate with<br />

traditional religions.<br />

You may have seen it from the 73 bus<br />

dozens of times without realising what<br />

an extraordinary institution it is.<br />

“One of our problems is that from the<br />

outside, you can’t see what happens<br />

on the inside,” says the minister, Rev.<br />

Andrew Pakula (everyone calls him<br />

Andy). “We had one guy who thought<br />

the people here would be really dour,<br />

all wearing black, with black hats – like<br />

a cross between the Quakers and a<br />

funeral.”<br />

In fact the congregation are a diverse<br />

mix of friendly, thoughtful locals,<br />

attracted by the church’s focus on<br />

hope, social activism, compassion and<br />

“radical inclusivity”: literally anyone is<br />

welcome.<br />

“Our primary principle is that every<br />

person matters,” says Andy. “That<br />

drives a strong impetus towards<br />

developing relationships – one of the<br />

most important things we do in life.<br />

Even, perhaps, with people we don’t<br />

know, who might seem strange or<br />

22


community<br />

Andrew Pakula<br />

One of our problems<br />

is that from the<br />

outside, you can’t<br />

see what happens<br />

on the inside<br />

together, sharing joys and sorrows and<br />

finding comfort when it’s needed.”<br />

And let’s not forget the next<br />

generation. Many Stokey families<br />

take advantage of the church’s<br />

excellent children’s programme, which<br />

mixes games and crafts with lively<br />

introductions to issues such as racism<br />

and prejudice. Next January, Andy<br />

hostile – people who might have fewer<br />

privileges. We want to bring back the idea<br />

of love in the public domain.”<br />

Coming from anyone else, that might<br />

sound airy-fairy, but the New Unitarians<br />

are firmly committed to positive action.<br />

Back in 2008, when the Civil Partnership<br />

Act still forbade same-sex couples from<br />

tying the knot in a religious setting,<br />

the New Unity decided to stop hosting<br />

heterosexual marriage ceremonies in<br />

protest.<br />

“We just thought, that’s discriminatory,”<br />

Andy says. “They [the government] were<br />

saying, yeah, it’s OK for you people to get<br />

together, but not in a place where God’s<br />

watching.” The church teamed up with the<br />

Liberal Jews and the Quakers to oppose<br />

the ban, which was lifted in 2011.<br />

Today, they work harder than ever to<br />

make our society a better, fairer place.<br />

The church’s Social Responsibility Team<br />

works closely with Hackney Citizens, an<br />

offshoot of the community organising<br />

group Citizens UK, on projects such<br />

as resettling Syrian migrants, ousting<br />

rogue landlords and campaigning<br />

for a “living wage” (as opposed to the<br />

existing minimum wage). Members<br />

of the congregation volunteer to do<br />

pastoral care or help out with the Sunday<br />

gatherings, which manage to combine<br />

singing and celebrating with the serious<br />

business of crafting strategies to deal<br />

with the fallout from Trump and Brexit.<br />

People without time to spare can share<br />

in the good works by<br />

making a contribution<br />

to the weekly collection,<br />

which goes to a number of<br />

different charities, benefiting<br />

those most in need: the homeless,<br />

impoverished elderly people, displaced<br />

children, and many others.<br />

One parishioner, Daniel Wilsher,<br />

has been singing in the church choir<br />

for two years. “There is a real sense of<br />

mystery and energy about being part of<br />

a community of value where ‘the faith’<br />

is not written down in a book,” he says.<br />

“Instead it emerges from and is lived by<br />

its diverse membership. It’s a journey<br />

with an unknown destination, but it’s<br />

also about the pure enjoyment of singing<br />

A picture of Mary<br />

Wollstonecraft on the<br />

church wall<br />

plans to start a “comingof-age<br />

programme2 for<br />

young people aged 12 to<br />

14, “helping kids to explore<br />

their own values, perspectives,<br />

beliefs or lack thereof – a sort of<br />

Unitarian version of the bar mitzvah.”<br />

Watching over it all is the ghost of<br />

former parishioner Mary Wollstonecraft,<br />

the pioneering feminist, immortalised by<br />

ex-local street artist Stewy in a striking<br />

life-size stencil on the church’s west wall.<br />

It’s still possible to sit in her old pew,<br />

#19; the wooden benches are unchanged<br />

since the 18th century. If you concentrate,<br />

you might just sense a trace of her bold,<br />

heretical, dissenting spirit lingering in<br />

the New Unity air.<br />

23


The<br />

Delicious<br />

Guide<br />

TO Hackney<br />

N16 Life Magazine uncovers the gems in our local cuisine<br />

that celebrates the diverse culture on offer in our area.<br />

A voyage of fine<br />

dining tastes<br />

Perilla Dining<br />

Perilla Dining is a restaurant serving<br />

high-quality European dishes with<br />

a creative twist in a fine dining<br />

setting. Its menu changes every day, giving<br />

customers the opportunity to discover<br />

different tastes, which is perhaps why<br />

the team describes its offering as “fine<br />

dining without the fuss”. The Cuttlefish<br />

Bolognese (£11) is particularly tasty, while<br />

the preserved plum custard and pears<br />

poached in wine and citrus (£7) and blood<br />

orange custard with olive oil will change<br />

your understanding of what dessert is!<br />

1-3 Green Lanes, London N16 9BS<br />

020 7359 0779<br />

perilladining.co.uk<br />

24


FOOD<br />

Neighbourhood favourite<br />

Floyds<br />

On Dalston Lane, a quiet turning off<br />

the busy main drag of Shacklewell<br />

Lane, is a restaurant serving<br />

modern European cuisine. The cost and<br />

intimate setting – both its location and its<br />

interior décor – makes Floyds somewhere<br />

special: turquoise blues transport you to<br />

the seaside and make you feel like you’re<br />

on holiday. The service is friendly and<br />

casual. We went for the pan-fried dover<br />

sole, fennel, blood orange, sea vegetable<br />

salad (£19). A light and nourishing choice<br />

for the summer.<br />

89 Shacklewell Lane, E8 2EB<br />

020 7923 7714<br />

floydsonthelane.co.uk<br />

Home cooking, Eastern<br />

Turkey style<br />

Istanbul Restaurant<br />

Istanbul Restaurant is known for its<br />

grilled kebabs, but its menu also<br />

boasts an array of regional Turkish<br />

dishes.<br />

Saçkavurma – a mincemeat and<br />

vegetable fry; aubergine-based<br />

karnıyarık and Turkish-style casserole<br />

are just a few of the lesser-visited<br />

dishes on offer.<br />

Stuffed içliköfte, specially prepared<br />

by local Turkish women, is a delicacy in<br />

Turkey’s east and southeast. It consists<br />

of a cracked-wheat shell filled with<br />

minced meat, spices, minced onions<br />

and parsley and is served with yoghurt.<br />

Restaurant owner HüseyinÜzüm,<br />

who hails from the southern city of<br />

Kahramanmaraş, says he is delighted to<br />

offer his home cuisine in Dalston.<br />

9 Stoke Newington Rd, N16 8BH<br />

020 7254 7291<br />

istanbulrestaurant.co.uk<br />

Nepalese dumplings<br />

House of Momo<br />

Serving momos, one of the most<br />

popular dishes in Nepal, the House<br />

of Momo is one the locals’ favourites.<br />

These are dough wraps with a meat or<br />

vegetable filling accompanied by spicy<br />

dipping sauce.<br />

There are steamed or steam-fried<br />

options, all served in a relaxing canteencafé<br />

atmosphere alongside other dishes<br />

from Nepal. The restaurant is run by<br />

Shubha Giri from Kathmandu and also<br />

serves fresh “Thali Bowls” with aloo gobi<br />

curry, palak paneer, rice, daal, parathas<br />

and mango pickle. Along with Nepalese<br />

food, they serve Nepalese Himalayan<br />

organic coffee roasted locally and local<br />

craft beers. Prices start at just £4.<br />

52 Boleyn Road, London, N16 8JP<br />

020 3632 4208<br />

Eclectic British food<br />

Victory Mansion<br />

This establishment, with its name<br />

coming from Orwell’s Nineteen<br />

Eighty-Four, is run by a team of five.<br />

World-class cocktails & eclectic British<br />

food on Stoke Newington High Street<br />

in the form of this beautiful, hand-built<br />

neighbourhood bar. Victory Mansion pays<br />

homage to the most significant literature,<br />

food and drink that has inspired London<br />

over the last Century.<br />

Chef Sam Wilkinson brings his unique<br />

take on eclectic, casual dining, inspired<br />

by his time with Ottolenghi, Bentlies<br />

and Cole pepper. Stuart Binks and Benji<br />

Purslow put their names to an inventive<br />

cocktail list they can finally call their own.<br />

Cauliflower & turmeric bellini, poached<br />

river trout, pomegranate & lemon balm<br />

(£9), Braised beef cheek, purple sprouting<br />

broccoli, horseradish &cashel blue cream,<br />

apple salad(£10) are light and charming.<br />

A bottomless brunch is served every<br />

Saturday and Sunday(£17,50)<br />

18 Stoke Newington High Street, N16 7PL<br />

020 3441 6900;<br />

victorymansion.co.uk<br />

25


REVIEW<br />

Bespoke beauty<br />

treatments for you<br />

Beauty is my passion. Those are<br />

the words of Ingrid Raphael,<br />

a medical aesthetician and<br />

cosmetician in Stamford Hill.<br />

Ingrid knows vast amounts<br />

about beauty and skincare – so much<br />

so that she has been running an airy,<br />

relaxing shop in the area offering facials,<br />

manicures and massages for five years.<br />

The treatments you receive are agreed<br />

with you after an analysis of your skin.<br />

They can range from personalised facials<br />

that create a beautiful complexion<br />

whatever your skin condition, to reviving<br />

body treatments designed to help you<br />

relax and unwind.<br />

Rather than picking from a menu of<br />

options, you simply tell your therapist<br />

how long you want you facial to last<br />

(costing between £33 and £120) and<br />

Ingrid takes care of everything else.<br />

Treatments are complimented by<br />

a range of unique products such as<br />

SkinCeuticals, Medik8 and Niod.<br />

My 90-minute facial included an<br />

intensive face and head massage; peeling<br />

and cold jade rollers; a nourishing and<br />

moisturising mask; and<br />

a dermapen treatment.<br />

The change and renewal<br />

in my skin was visible the<br />

following day.<br />

Ingrid knows that each<br />

person’s skin has different<br />

needs, which is why every<br />

Hackney resident must<br />

visit for her professional know-how<br />

and expert bespoke care. For further<br />

information, visit her website.<br />

ingridraphael.com<br />

+44 (0) 7814 361028<br />

The One-Stop Shop


FOOD<br />

CHAMPAGNE<br />

LIMONCELLO COCKTAIL<br />

SERVES 8<br />

• 1 lemon wedge, cut for rims<br />

• 8 lemon rind strips<br />

• 8 tbsp Limoncello<br />

• 4 tsp fresh lemon juice<br />

• 1 bottle Champagne, chilled<br />

A lemony zest<br />

for summer<br />

A new collection of recipes based around perhaps<br />

the most popular citrus – the Lemon Compendium<br />

– is now available from Yasemin Kaner-White.<br />

Sugar the glass rims by rubbing a cut<br />

lemon wedge around the rim of each<br />

glass, then dip in sugar. Next, roll up<br />

the strips of lemon rind and place one<br />

into each of the champagne flutes.<br />

Add 1 tbsp Limoncello and ½ tsp juice<br />

to each glass. Divide champagne<br />

evenly among glasses.<br />

Serve immediately.<br />

The book is the result of months of<br />

research, tasting and travelling<br />

and offers a varied account of all<br />

things lemony. It’s not just food –<br />

health, beauty and household tips, lemon<br />

festivals in Europe, as well as historical<br />

accounts can be found alongside the<br />

lemonlicious recipies.<br />

LEMON SORBET<br />

IN LEMON SHELLS<br />

• 8 large lemons<br />

• 340g sugar<br />

• 360ml water<br />

Cut off the top third of the lemons, not the<br />

stem end, and reserve for the ‘cap.’ Hollow<br />

out each lemon, putting the juice and flesh<br />

(not the pips or pith) into a blender. Slice<br />

a little off the bottom of each lemon shell,<br />

being careful not to cut through to the<br />

inside of the lemon. This will make them<br />

sit straight when placed on a plate.<br />

Freeze the shells at least 1 hour or<br />

overnight. Then fill with sorbet (made as<br />

per instructions below) and freeze again.<br />

To make the sorbet, combine the sugar,<br />

lemon juice and water in a saucepan, over<br />

a medium heat, stir until the sugar has<br />

dissolved. Stir the lemon zest. Remove<br />

from heat, set aside allowing to cool.<br />

Methods<br />

Ice Cream Maker – transfer mixture to<br />

ice cream maker, process according to<br />

manufacturer's instructions.<br />

Freezer Method – pour into container,<br />

cover and place mixture in the freezer.<br />

When it is semi-solid, rack up with a fork<br />

and freeze again.<br />

Fill each frozen lemon shell with the<br />

sorbet, top off with a lemon cap, freeze<br />

again until completely frozen, then serve.<br />

This delicious pudding can be prepared<br />

2–3 days in advance, simply keep covered<br />

in a container stored in.<br />

27


FOOD<br />

WATERMELON, LEMON<br />

& ROSEMARY SLURP<br />

• 500ml water<br />

• 185g caster sugar<br />

• 2 sprigs rosemary stripped & chopped<br />

• 18 lemons, juice only<br />

• 1 medium watermelon, de-seeded & cubed<br />

• 8 cups ice cubes<br />

Over a high heat bring the water and<br />

sugar to a boil in a saucepan. Stir in the<br />

rosemary, and set aside to steep for 1 hour.<br />

Place the lemon juice with the watermelon<br />

in a blender.<br />

Strain the rosemary syrup through a<br />

mesh strainer into the blender, puree until<br />

smooth. Refrigerate until very cold, give it<br />

a good stir before serving over ice.<br />

LEMON STYLE<br />

COUSCOUS<br />

I like to eat this with lamb chops, but it<br />

accompanies most meats or fish, as well<br />

as being a meal on its own perhaps with<br />

some grilled haloumi for the vegetarians<br />

out there...<br />

SERVES 4<br />

Libya<br />

CUSCUS BIL-BOSLA<br />

Libya's national dish, traditionally<br />

shared and eaten from one large bowl,<br />

accompanied by small salad's, and a<br />

host of other snacks surrounding it, for<br />

example dolma (rice and mince stuffed<br />

bell peppers) however, the dish alone, is<br />

certainly satisfying…<br />

• ½ tsp cinnamon<br />

• 2 tsp cumin seeds<br />

• 3 tsp turmeric<br />

• 2 tsp dried chilli flakes<br />

• 90ml olive oil<br />

• 4 large cloves garlic<br />

• 2 large onions, sliced<br />

• 600g lamb leg meat, cubed<br />

• 2 potatoes, cubed<br />

• 2 tsp salt<br />

• 880ml boiling water<br />

• 2 tbsp tomato paste<br />

• 230g cooked chickpeas<br />

• 1 lemon, juice & zest<br />

• 400g couscous<br />

• Pinch salt<br />

• Garnish<br />

• 2 lemons, wedges<br />

Begin by pounding together the spices<br />

in a mortar and pestle, set aside. Heat<br />

50ml olive oil in a large frying pan, add<br />

the onions and meat, cook until the<br />

onions start to caramelise, throw in the<br />

potato and 1 tsp salt, stir until golden.<br />

Transfer to a casserole dish, de-glaze<br />

the pan by pouring 480ml water into<br />

the frying pan, collecting all the pan<br />

juices, pour into the casserole dish. Now<br />

add the spices and tomato paste, stir<br />

well, cooking until potatoes are soft and<br />

then add the chickpeas, lemon juice and<br />

zest.<br />

Next cook the couscous, place in a<br />

bowl with 400ml boiling water, 40ml<br />

olive oil and 1 tsp salt, stir and cover<br />

with cling film, leave for 10 minutes.<br />

When the couscous is ready, place on a<br />

serving plate topped off with the lamb<br />

mixture, serve with lemon wedges.<br />

BLUEBERRY & LEMON<br />

RICOTTA CAKE<br />

GLUTEN FREE<br />

• 250g ricotta cheese<br />

• 140g soft butter<br />

• 140g ground almonds<br />

• 140g golden caster sugar<br />

• 6 medium eggs, separated<br />

• 1 lemon, zest & juice<br />

• 75g dried blueberries<br />

• 25g fine polenta flour<br />

• Icing sugar, for dusting<br />

Heat the oven to 180ºC. Grease and<br />

line the base of a 23cm diameter<br />

spring-form tin. Put the ricotta, butter,<br />

almonds, sugar and egg yolks in a large<br />

bowl and beat together with a wooden<br />

spoon until creamy. Add the lemon zest<br />

and juice with the dried blueberries.<br />

Whisk the egg whites in a clean bowl<br />

until they peak softly. Fold the polenta<br />

into the ricotta mixture, then gently<br />

fold in the whisked egg whites. Pour<br />

the cake mix into the prepared tin<br />

and bake for 35 minutes. The cake is<br />

cooked when it is golden and just firm<br />

to the touch. Allow it to cool in the tin,<br />

then transfer to a serving plate and<br />

dust with the icing sugar before<br />

serving up.<br />

N16 Life readers get<br />

FREE POSTAGE if they are<br />

order a copy of the Lemon<br />

Compendium for £25.<br />

Email yasemen@parmuto.com<br />

and mention this magazine<br />

when ordering. Signed<br />

copies also available.<br />

28


Q&A<br />

You are a professional musician. What<br />

drew you to a career as a chef? Where<br />

does your love of cooking come from?<br />

Cooking is something that has always<br />

been a huge part of my life. Over<br />

the years music and cooking have<br />

become inextricably linked. I think<br />

the inspiration for both comes from<br />

the same place, both are a way of<br />

communicating with other people.<br />

Good food<br />

that tastes<br />

amazing<br />

Musician, broadcaster, cook and Great<br />

British Menu judge Andi Oliver has<br />

opened her first restaurant in Stoke<br />

Newington Church Street<br />

You have got two jobs-was that<br />

transition difficult?<br />

I've always had a few jobs so no! It's<br />

weirder for me to only be doing one<br />

thing at a time.<br />

What is your favourite kind of food to<br />

cook and why?<br />

I love it all really, and the lovely thing<br />

about what we're doing at Andi's is that<br />

I can explore all kinds of cooking. We<br />

have our all-day brunch setup which<br />

is more hearty and comforting. Then<br />

at night we get to be more refined: the<br />

most important thing for me is the<br />

yummy factor, it has to be delicious!<br />

Is there any particular reason you've<br />

chosen to open your restaurant in<br />

Stokey?<br />

Well I only live down the road in Clapton<br />

and have done for about 18 years, so<br />

Stokey is part of my stomping ground,<br />

and I've always spent time here and<br />

when this particular site came up we fell<br />

in love with it, it has such a great vibe<br />

and just fit our needs perfectly.<br />

29


Q&A<br />

We're calling it<br />

'down home fancy<br />

food', a little bit of<br />

something lovely<br />

for everyone<br />

boyfriend he made some particularly<br />

weird scrambled eggs the other day? He<br />

insists on putting all sorts of soy sauce<br />

and chillies in them. I am NOT, as they<br />

say, “feeling it”.<br />

Have you ever had any major<br />

disasters on TV?<br />

When we did Christmas Kitchen we<br />

were cooking five dishes a day and a few<br />

Could you tell us about the restaurant?<br />

At Andi's we're aiming to create a real<br />

neighbourhood vibe, a home from home<br />

where people can relax, enjoy themselves,<br />

get delicious food and drinks. We're<br />

calling it 'down home fancy food', a little<br />

bit of something lovely for everyone.<br />

Why did you choose green colour for<br />

the facade?<br />

All of the design for the restaurant is by<br />

Debs Armstrong from strong&co, she's<br />

a genius and she's a Stokey resident<br />

actually! Her use of colour and light in the<br />

design and her attention to detail, has<br />

blown me away, I'm in love with it all.<br />

What's cooking in the<br />

restaurant kitchen?<br />

Well we've got all our gorgeous brunch<br />

dishes, baked eggs, energy bowls with<br />

roast seasonal vegetables & chargrilled<br />

proteins like shrimp, or halloumi, lamb<br />

chops or tofu, then you've got a French<br />

toast bacon sandwich with maple syrup<br />

and a fried egg or a salt beef Reuben's!<br />

Then at night our newest special is<br />

a seared lamb rump, bubble & squeak<br />

cake topped with cuttlefish ink aioli, I'm<br />

pretty excited about it! For vegans or<br />

vegetarians I'm working with a green pea<br />

socca, pickled and pan roasted spring<br />

vegetables and a watercress cream (made<br />

with avocado and hazelnut milk). Like it<br />

says on the window: beautiful things for<br />

everyone!<br />

Where did you get the best<br />

and worst food?<br />

I am rather a big fan of<br />

Escosesa down the road from<br />

us actually. Gorgeous tapas,<br />

brilliant drinks made by brilliant<br />

chefs in a lovely environment, works<br />

perfectly for me! We've also been going<br />

up to Hackney road to Bad Sports for<br />

incredible Tacos, I like to go to the<br />

flower market then pop in to see what<br />

they've got on their grill yesterday. It<br />

was an amazing lamb barbacoa, jalapeño<br />

special - blooming delicious! At the other<br />

end of the spectrum, whilst I love my<br />

things got rushed I had a<br />

nightmare with some filo<br />

pastry that just kept tearing<br />

and sticking to everything.<br />

Luckily “one I made earlier” was<br />

to hand but it went into the oven<br />

looking like I'd dropped it at least three<br />

times!<br />

What do you think will be the next big<br />

food trend?<br />

I think that people want food that is<br />

good for them but still tastes amazing!<br />

Colourful, well sourced, delicious AND<br />

healthy! We CAN have it all!<br />

30


Bira, the world’s first<br />

ever beer for kebabs!<br />

DISTRIBUTION<br />

info@biralondon.com | www.biralondon.com<br />

BiraLDN<br />

Bira London<br />

Brantwood Road,<br />

London N17 0DX<br />

020 8801 0101


• Double Room<br />

• Single Room<br />

• Free Wi-Fi Internet<br />

• Private Shower<br />

• En Suite<br />

• Flat Screen TV<br />

• Car Parking<br />

• All Credit Cards<br />

Accepted<br />

109A Kingsland High Street, London, E8 2PB<br />

T: 020 7503 5000 • F: 020 7684 0361<br />

W: www.global-lodge.com • E: info@global-lodge.com<br />

LODGE<br />

GLOBAL LODGE.indd 1 22/05/2017 03:07


REVIEW<br />

It’s great fun trying<br />

to stay still as you<br />

navigate swings,<br />

ladders and a highaltitude<br />

zip wire<br />

Walking<br />

above the trees<br />

Go Ape, well-known around the country for its<br />

adventure courses, has opened its second branch<br />

in North London in Alexandra Palace<br />

Being out in the open air is<br />

a therapeutic, soothing<br />

experience. It makes you<br />

happier and feel more at<br />

ease with yourself. This is<br />

especially true of children,<br />

who will delight at the<br />

experience of Go Ape – an unrivalled<br />

opportunity to spent time in a forest and<br />

find their inner Tarzan.<br />

But walking above the trees? Don’t<br />

worry, they tie you in a secure harness<br />

so that even if you trip, you won’t fall. I<br />

went with a friend who was nervous about<br />

her safety and badgered the Go Ape<br />

team with just about every silly question<br />

she could think of. They were calm and<br />

reassuring as they told her there was<br />

nothing to be afraid of.<br />

The worst-case scenario was falling off<br />

the swings and staying suspended in midair<br />

– which would amuse the children and<br />

parents around us, but nothing more.<br />

But I have to say that those innocentlooking<br />

swings were a lot higher up than<br />

they appeared from the ground. It was<br />

such a thrill to look down below – you<br />

really feel the adrenaline pumping. But<br />

the harnesses do their job and reassure<br />

you as move along the course.<br />

It’s great fun trying to stay still as you<br />

navigate swings, ladders and a highaltitude<br />

zip wire. The experience takes<br />

about one hour in all, depending how fast<br />

you go.<br />

It was a rainy day when we went, which<br />

we thought would be unsuitable for this<br />

kind of activity – but this was not the<br />

case. In fact, the mud made it all the more<br />

fun: rain is perfectly fine, but thundery<br />

conditions are not suitable for Go Ape.<br />

Both my friend – who has a fear of<br />

heights – and I were able to navigate the<br />

challenging Tree Top Junior without<br />

getting stuck in mid-air. It was such a<br />

delight to complete an outdoor activity<br />

like this.<br />

Go Ape Alexandra Palace is a healthy<br />

family day out combining adrenaline,<br />

open air and physical activity. We’ll be<br />

back with our nephews and nieces before<br />

you know it.<br />

Go Ape’s prices start from £18.<br />

Visit goape.co.uk<br />

33


Unleash your<br />

CREATIVITY<br />

Is that beautiful piece of furniture in the corner of<br />

your room gathering dust? Are you desperate to<br />

learn how to bake? If you’re a creative type with<br />

itchy hands raring to go, Hackney has some of the<br />

best courses you could ask for<br />

ARTISAN BREADMAKING<br />

ARTISAN BREADMAKING<br />

Abbot Street Car Park, London E8 3DP<br />

craftfood.london<br />

If the Great British Bake Off leaves you<br />

feeling inspired, or you’ve ever wanted<br />

to know how to make great bread,<br />

this is your opportunity to learn from<br />

the best. The course is run by one of the<br />

expert bakers at The Dusty Knuckle, an<br />

artisan micro-bakery based in a cleverly<br />

converted shipping container, five<br />

minutes from Dalston Junction.<br />

With three professional deck ovens,<br />

the bakery supplies some of the best local<br />

restaurants and delis, as well as selling<br />

bread at weekend farmers’ markets.<br />

They do two classes. The first is an<br />

introductory half-day course (£75) which<br />

runs on Tuesday evenings where they<br />

teach you the basics of making amazing<br />

artisan bread in your own home, baking<br />

a yeasted dough in the bakery and then<br />

making a proper sourdough which guests<br />

then take home to bake the next day. The<br />

evening is rounded off with a rustic meal<br />

and a glass of wine.<br />

The other course is a full day artisan<br />

bread masterclass (£135), which runs on<br />

Sundays from 9.30am. On the course<br />

guests make different types of bread<br />

including sourdough, slow fermented<br />

white (yeasted dough), focaccia, soda<br />

& walnut & raisin bread. The course<br />

includes lunch, delicious coffee and<br />

refreshments through the day.<br />

Courses run every four weeks and the<br />

latest dates are on the website.<br />

Introduction to Breadmaking: Tuesday<br />

13 June and every four weeks thereafter.<br />

Artisan Bread Masterclass: Sunday 2nd<br />

July and every four weeks thereafter.<br />

34


SUMMER COURSES<br />

Cocktail Masterclasses<br />

in Kingsland Road<br />

Woodworking techniques<br />

Woodworking techniques<br />

Unit 3 Fountayne House,<br />

Fountayne Road, N15 4QL<br />

furnitureschool.co.uk<br />

The London School of Furniture<br />

Making offers short courses to<br />

enthusiastic Londoners keen to<br />

learn traditional woodworking<br />

techniques. The school has a suite of<br />

basic skills classes which lead on to<br />

project-based courses where you can<br />

make a box, coffee table or chair.<br />

Once you feel comfortable with handling<br />

the tools you can go to their supervised<br />

Reupholster that old chair<br />

Every guest gets<br />

their own area at<br />

a bar station<br />

access sessions and make a small project<br />

of your own. If you're not sure whether<br />

you'll like working in wood or just want to<br />

try them out, then you might be interested<br />

in a 2.5hr taster class.<br />

Small classes ensure that you will get<br />

plenty of time to discuss and review your<br />

progress with your tutor Helen. Classes<br />

run 9.00 till 4.00 Monday to Friday and<br />

some evenings 6.00 till 9.00.<br />

Course fees start at £55.<br />

Reupholster<br />

that old chair<br />

The School of Stuff<br />

B002, Lighthouse Studios,<br />

89A Shacklewell Lane,<br />

Dalston, E8 2EB<br />

theschoolofstuff.co.uk<br />

The School of Stuff is a studio<br />

dedicated to teaching furniture<br />

crafts in Dalston running four<br />

five-day intensive courses over<br />

the summer. One of the courses, Modern<br />

Upholstery, runs between 17 and 21 July<br />

2017 (£475.00), which covers modern<br />

upholstery techniques. Familiarise<br />

yourself with material, and learn<br />

techniques, such as how to cut and shape<br />

foam, how to make a pattern for a new<br />

top cover for your modern chair, and how<br />

to use a sewing machine accurately to<br />

make a perfectly fitting fixed cover.<br />

The other course is Project Upholstery,<br />

running between Monday 4 and Friday 8<br />

September 2017. The five-day intensive<br />

project based session will teach you the<br />

techniques required to reupholster a<br />

chair of your choice. Price £475.00.<br />

Cocktail Masterclasses<br />

in Kingsland Road<br />

TT Liquor, 17B Kingsland Road,<br />

London E2 8AA<br />

ttliquor.co.uk/cocktail-making-classes<br />

Drawing upon a decade’s worth<br />

of experience, the team behind<br />

Kingsland Road’s newly<br />

opened TT Liquor introduce<br />

their cocktail masterclass series;<br />

entirely interactive experiences taught<br />

by a seasoned industry mixologists.<br />

Completely interactive, every guest<br />

gets their own area at a bar station to<br />

make a selection of varied cocktails<br />

with their own equipment, guided by an<br />

experienced mixologist.<br />

Fitting up to 5 people per workstation,<br />

the cocktail classes are perfect for larger<br />

classes, whilst smaller groups can get a<br />

more intimate experience at their own<br />

station.<br />

Guests can choose from one<br />

of four classes: Cocktail Making<br />

Classes, Molecular Cocktail Classes, Gin<br />

Cocktail Classes, Rum Cocktail Classes.<br />

Price £70.<br />

35


THE BIRDCAGE<br />

BAR + KITCHEN<br />

58 Stamford Hill, London N16 6XS<br />

thebirdcageN16.co.uk • @thebirdcageN16<br />

Tel: 020 8 8069077


FEATURE<br />

Hackney:<br />

London’s fashion<br />

capital<br />

Home to the studios of such fashion designers<br />

as Christopher Kane, Simon Rocha, Bora Aksu,<br />

Roksanda Ilincic, Hackney has long been on the<br />

fashion industry’s radar. But a luxury outlet zone<br />

– London’s first – in Hackney Walk promises to<br />

place the borough firmly on the map<br />

37


FEATURE<br />

Globally recognised<br />

brands like Burberry,<br />

Anya Hindmarch,<br />

Aquascutum and<br />

Pringle of Scotland<br />

already had an<br />

established outlet<br />

presence in Hackney Walk, but it was the<br />

wider development of the area that really<br />

caught the industry’s attention – and that<br />

of tourists.<br />

£6 million was raised in regeneration<br />

fund started after the riots swept this<br />

part of London in 2011. Hackney Walk has<br />

been transformed into the capital’s first<br />

luxury outlet zone, having opened at the<br />

end of 2016 on Morning Lane opposite the<br />

old Burberry factory.<br />

Twelve formerly unused railways arches<br />

unite them, converted into beautiful retail<br />

spaces by renowned British architect<br />

David Adjaye. It is rapidly becoming a<br />

major attraction for London.<br />

The Hackney Walk project emerged<br />

in 2011 after that summer’s riots, when<br />

Hackney Council received a £2 million<br />

post-riot regeneration injection of funds<br />

and spent it on transforming East London<br />

into a fashion centre once again. A<br />

further £4 million was spent by Network<br />

Rail on restoring the arches.<br />

This area was a centre for clothesmaking<br />

and the textiles industry until the<br />

1990s. Hackney Walk is now riving that<br />

spirit in 2017, a tradition that stretches<br />

back to the 19th Century when 15,000<br />

people were employed in factories and<br />

workshops across Hackney.<br />

Efforts continue to transform Hackney<br />

A tradition that<br />

stretches back to<br />

the 19th century<br />

when 15,000 people<br />

worked here<br />

Walk into a venue with offices and shops<br />

on a par with Bicester Village – and more<br />

conveniently located for London.<br />

The brands on offer<br />

Hackney Walk's arches are occupied<br />

by an array of recently opened luxury<br />

outlets including: two outlet stores from<br />

MatchesFashion.com for womenswear<br />

and menswear; Gieves & Hawkes; Joseph;<br />

UGG; multi-brand concept store Present;<br />

luxury cashmere brand Colombo; Zadig &<br />

Voltaire: Folli Follie and Nicole Farhi. All<br />

retailers offer up to 70% off regular retail<br />

prices.<br />

But that’s not all. The Stitch Academy<br />

offers free-of-charge workshops and<br />

masterclasses, while the Hackney<br />

Shop organises weekend events with<br />

some of the leading names in the<br />

fashion business. There is also pop-up<br />

retail space available for independent<br />

designers.<br />

Recent pop-up outlets have included<br />

House of Sunny, Henry Holland, Mary<br />

Benson, Holly Fulton and Piers Atkinson.<br />

Good wine, good food<br />

A gastronomical treat awaits you at<br />

Hackney Walk, where Legs restaurant will<br />

provide you with a contemporary lunch<br />

with fine wines. The evening menu is<br />

particularly worth perusing.<br />

In short, Hackney Walk is more than<br />

a retail destination but a central point<br />

of fashion, arts, food and culture. It<br />

combines the world of luxury with<br />

iconic design.<br />

www.hackneywalk.com<br />

Opening Times<br />

Monday-Saturday 10.00 - 6.00 pm<br />

Sunday 11.00 - 5.00 pm<br />

39


ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE<br />

A beer only for kebabs<br />

- now in Hackney<br />

Kebabs are one of the most popular<br />

dishes in London – but does it<br />

need a beer of its own?<br />

That’s what local<br />

entrepreneur and<br />

restauranteur<br />

Ibrahim Dogus says<br />

about his new label,<br />

Bira London.<br />

Taking its name<br />

from the Turkish word for beer,<br />

the bottled beverage was officially<br />

launched in London just before<br />

Christmas.<br />

It has a secret recipe that Dogus<br />

says suits barbecue flavours and<br />

liberal use of spices. It has been<br />

described as a dry, very smooth<br />

lager with a crisp taste, a strong<br />

body and notes of barley.<br />

Bira was served during this<br />

year’s British Kebab Awards, where<br />

Dogus said: “The kebab industry is<br />

worth over £2.2 billion in the UK so<br />

it was time it had its own beer.<br />

“I’m delighted as a businessman<br />

to be launching an iconic drink into<br />

a fiercely competitive marketplace.<br />

It would also be fantastic if people<br />

fall in love with the beer and<br />

discover what top end cuisine<br />

means for the kebab as a result.”<br />

The drink is available across N16<br />

in such venues as Melek Kitchen,<br />

Hasan Meze Mangal Restaurant<br />

and Bella Vita restaurant in<br />

Hackney Broadway Market.<br />

Eat In<br />

Take Out<br />

Hot/Cold Sandwiches<br />

Breakfast<br />

Daily Soup<br />

Homemade Cakes<br />

Whole Grain Salads<br />

All our food is<br />

made in-house.<br />

53 Stoke Newington Church St, Stoke Newington, London N16 0AR • 020 7249 9061<br />

Camia Deli.indd 1 05/12/2016 23:03


26<br />

Stuffed Calamari with Shrimps<br />

Eating here is a live history class<br />

Under the Ottoman Empire the guilds of cooks were fiercely secretive about<br />

their culinary tricks. Consequently few recipes survive from the four and half centuries of<br />

Ottoman rule (1453 to 1918). In as district of old houses just off a little square lined with<br />

plane trees, next door to one of the finest Byzantine churches, St. Savior in Chora,<br />

Asitane has devoted itself to the re-creation of this lost cuisine<br />

New York Times<br />

Kariye Camii Sokak No: 6 34240 Edirnekapi Istanbul, Turkey T:+90 (212) 635 7997<br />

www.asitanerestaurant.com


Istanbul:<br />

two continents<br />

in two days<br />

It’s a city with an 8000-year history, charting a story from Byzantium<br />

to Constantinople before assuming its present name, Istanbul. As a vast<br />

metropolis spread across two continents, how could you possibly see it<br />

in just two days? Here’s our guide to prove you can.<br />

by Yasemin BAKAN<br />

Day One<br />

Sultanahmet<br />

We assume you are staying in a hotel in<br />

Sultanahmet, the heart of the old city on<br />

the European side, as this will help you<br />

save time.<br />

Start your first day with a visit<br />

to the Blue Mosque (Turkish:<br />

SultanahmetCamii). It’s called blue<br />

because of the tiles on the interior and<br />

was built between 1609 and 1616, during<br />

the reign of Ahmet I. Entry free.<br />

From the mosque, cross the square to<br />

the magnificent Hagia Sophia museum<br />

(40 TL/£8.99). An Eastern Orthodox<br />

cathedral when it was built in 537 AD, it<br />

was converted into a mosque by Mehmet II<br />

when he took the city from the Byzantine<br />

Empire in 1453, earning himself the<br />

moniker “the Conqueror” in the process.<br />

In the 1930s it was converted into<br />

a museum by Ataturk, the founder of<br />

modern Turkey, and it is a stunning sight<br />

to see mosaics and frescos featuring<br />

Christ, the Virgin Mary and Byzantine<br />

emperors alongside Arabic script from<br />

the building’s mosque era.<br />

Yerebatan Sarnıcı<br />

Also worth seeing in the same area is<br />

42


GETAWAY<br />

the Basilica Cistern (20 TL / £4.50),<br />

a breathtaking underground water<br />

reservoir built with 336 columns during<br />

the reign of Byzantine emperor Justinian I.<br />

It will take you three to four hours to<br />

see these magnificent historical sites.<br />

TOPKAPI PALACE<br />

Afterwards, move firmly into the<br />

Ottoman era with a visit to the Topkapı<br />

Palace complex (40 TL / £8.99, closed<br />

Tuesdays) where you could easily while<br />

away the hours touring the grandiose<br />

home of the sultans that reigned over<br />

a vast empire. There are various low<br />

buildings surrounding courtyards,<br />

pavilions and gardens in an area covering<br />

approximately 7.5 million square feet.<br />

In addition to Ottoman sultans’<br />

possessions and documents, you can<br />

also see the sceptre of the Prophet<br />

Muhammad. There is also a café with a<br />

magnificent view of the Bosporus where<br />

you can take the weight off your feet for a<br />

minute.<br />

If, after that, you are still not tired, drop<br />

into the nearby Istanbul Archaeological<br />

Museum.<br />

DAY TWO<br />

KUZGUNCUK<br />

Today we are off to the Asian side – or,<br />

as Istanbul people call it, the Anatolia<br />

(Anadolu) side. The short boat trip across<br />

the water from Eminönü on the shores of<br />

the Bosporus to Üsküdar won’t be easy<br />

to forget. From here, take a bus or cab<br />

for the 10-minute trip to Kuzguncuk, the<br />

artistic village that was once a meeting<br />

point for different cultures with its<br />

mosque, synagogue and Greek Orthodox<br />

and Armenian churches.<br />

This little neighbourhood was once<br />

home to Jewish, Greek, Armenian and<br />

ethnic Turks – in particular, it is where<br />

ten thousand Jews settled when they<br />

deported from Spain in the 15th century.<br />

That is why it was known as “Little<br />

Jerusalem”. Armenians followed in the<br />

18th century alongside a small Greek<br />

community. There was not even a mosque<br />

here in Kuzguncuk until 1952.<br />

BEYLERBEYI PALACE<br />

Next head over to Beylerbeyi Palace<br />

(20 TL / £4.50), the summer home of<br />

Ottoman sultans, where guests from<br />

around the world – including European<br />

royalty – would be hosted.<br />

It was constructed on the orders of<br />

Sultan Abdulaziz and is a magnificent<br />

show of crystal chandeliers, magnificent<br />

staircases, the “Yıldız” style of porcelain<br />

crockery, Hereke carpets and dolphinshaped<br />

marble fountain.<br />

KUZGUNCUK WAS ONCE<br />

HOME TO JEWISH,<br />

GREEK, ARMENIAN AND<br />

ETHNIC TURKS<br />

KÜÇÜKSU PALACE<br />

Another Ottoman palace is at Küçüksu<br />

(2.50 TL / 55p, closed Mondays &<br />

Thursdays) which was designed as a<br />

hunting lodge for Sultan Abdulmecid.<br />

The 8-room stone building was built in<br />

the 1850s. The outside features baroqueinspired<br />

pomegranate and goose<br />

figurines, while the interior boasts a twin<br />

staircase and lighting provided through<br />

Bohemian crystal.<br />

Abdulmecid would spend the weekends<br />

here to hunt, popping over from the<br />

Dolmabahçe palace on the European<br />

side of the city by boat. He would return<br />

home in the evenings as the palace has no<br />

bedroom.<br />

Some scenes from the 1999 James<br />

Bond film “The World Is Not Enough”<br />

were filmed here at this architectural<br />

treasure. Its location, on the shore of the<br />

Göksu, has been the subject of many 19th<br />

century European painting.<br />

ANADOLUHISARI<br />

With a leisurely walk, proceed to the<br />

AnadoluHisar jetty. Form this point you<br />

can see two castles, one on either side<br />

of the Bosporus, overlooking the water<br />

for centuries. AnadoluHisarı (Anatolian<br />

Castle) was completed in 1395 as part<br />

of Sultan Bayezid I’s preparations for a<br />

second siege of Constantinople. Spend a<br />

little while at one of the cafes around the<br />

Göksu near AnadoluHisar, particularly if<br />

the weather is sunny.<br />

From here, you have two options. You<br />

can either proceed to the bar street in<br />

AnadoluHisarı<br />

43


getaway<br />

Asitane Restaurant's<br />

stuffed melon dish<br />

nearby Kadıköy to enjoy yourself as locals<br />

do and take the last boat back to your<br />

hotel in Eminönü. Or you can cross back<br />

to the European side immediately and<br />

visit the district of Emirgan.<br />

Emirgan<br />

Assuming you proceed to Emirgan,<br />

there are boats available to take you<br />

across the water for 7.5 TL. Here you<br />

will find the Sakıp Sabancı Museum<br />

(sakipsabancimuzesi.org/en), founded<br />

by one of the most well-known and<br />

successful business families in Turkey.<br />

The museum displays the families<br />

collection of calligraphy and paintings.<br />

From here, proceed to the Emirgan<br />

Koru where, if you are visiting in the<br />

spring, you will see some magnificent<br />

tulip displays and the pink, yellow and<br />

white palaces built by Ismail Pasha<br />

between 1871 and 1878.<br />

Where to eat on the<br />

European side?<br />

For a quick, traditionally Turkish lunch<br />

in Sultanahmet, pop over to the Tarihi<br />

Sultanahmet Köftecisi for a meal of köfte<br />

(meatballs) and beyaz fasülye salatası<br />

(white bean salad). For the evening meal,<br />

why not consider Akin Balık (akinbalik.<br />

com.tr), a fish restaurant down the hill<br />

next to the Karaköy jetty by the Galata<br />

bridge? An alternative is the Karaköy<br />

Lokantası (karakoylokantasi.com) for<br />

some authentic Ottoman cuisine.<br />

People in Istanbul also enjoy Asitane<br />

Restaurant (asitanerestaurant.com),<br />

which serves such palatial delights<br />

as meat stew encased in melon and<br />

Ottoman-style sherbet. And while you’re<br />

in the area, why not check out the Kariye<br />

Museum (kariye.muze.gov.tr; £6.74) – it’s<br />

all reachable by boat from the Galata<br />

bridge. Just travel to Ayvansaray.<br />

Kuzguncuk Balıkçısı<br />

Some scenes from<br />

the 1999 James Bond<br />

film “The World Is<br />

Not Enough” were<br />

filmed here at this<br />

architectural<br />

treasure<br />

For a more contemporary but still<br />

traditional Turkish dining experience,<br />

check out the meyhane (tavern) scene.<br />

After warm and cold mezes you can enjoy<br />

fish, meat or chicken at the restaurants<br />

– all served with Turkey’s national<br />

drink, rakı. The best is Refik Restaurant<br />

(refikrestaurant.com), which has existed<br />

since the 1960s. Try the lakerda, a<br />

pickled bonito dish eaten as a mezze in<br />

the Turkey. It is made from one-year-old<br />

bonito migrating through the Bosphorus<br />

and is especially prized.<br />

If grilled kebabs are your thing,<br />

then you can’t go wrong by visiting<br />

Umut Ocakbaşı (Katip Mustafa Çelebi<br />

Mahallesi, HasnunGalip Sk. No:8 Beyoğlu)<br />

or Zübeyir Ocakbaşı (Bekar Sokak No.28,<br />

Istiklal Caddesi, Taksim).<br />

Where to eat on the<br />

Asian side?<br />

The Bosporus shore is lined with stylish<br />

restaurants, but these are pricey. Drop<br />

into the back streets of Kuzguncuk for a<br />

calmer, cheaper and local option – like the<br />

Kuzguncuk Balıkçısı, seafood restaurant.<br />

Fish soup is 9 TL / £8, while seasonal<br />

fillets start from 15 TL / £3.40.<br />

When you’re at AnadoluHisar, why<br />

not check out Break Cafe (Toplarönü<br />

Riyaziyeci Çıkmazı No: 2 Anadoluhisarı,<br />

Beykoz/İstanbul Phone: +90 216 323 20<br />

20) on the seafront, where you can feast<br />

for between 20-30 TL / £4.50-6.50. Don’t<br />

forget to try a Turkish coffee – it’s a true<br />

delight!<br />

Transport<br />

The Istanbulkart is Istanbul’s answer to<br />

London’s Oyster card. Load up about 35<br />

TL / £8 onto the card, which will be plenty<br />

to see you around the city for two days.<br />

It’s valid on buses, trams and boats. Taxis<br />

are metered, but if you take one avoid<br />

surprises by asking the driver how much<br />

he expects the fare will be.<br />

Galata Bridge & Galata Tower<br />

45


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