Popular Photography on Campus April 2016
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APRIL <strong>2016</strong><br />
THE SECRETS<br />
TO ASSISTING<br />
A PRO GOES BACK<br />
TO SCHOOL<br />
WHERE TO LAUNCH<br />
YOUR CAREER<br />
WHAT<br />
MAKES<br />
YOU LOOK?<br />
Catherine Opie <strong>on</strong> portraits, places, culture, and politics—<br />
and why you should never stop asking questi<strong>on</strong>s
The moment your whole career comes into focus.<br />
This is the moment we work for.<br />
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: JOE RIIS; HOLLY ANDRES; RUSH JAGOE; MARVIN ORELLANA; CATHERINE OPIE/REGEN PROJECTS, LA AND LEHMANN MAUPIN, NY & HONG KONG<br />
FEATURES<br />
15 Your Next Move<br />
After graduati<strong>on</strong>, scores of young photographers will descend up<strong>on</strong><br />
New York and L.A. to seek their fortunes. Want to stand out from<br />
the crowd? D<strong>on</strong>’t join it. We talked to four shooters who owe their<br />
success to their surprising locati<strong>on</strong>s.<br />
By Sara Cravatts<br />
20 Ready, Set, Assist<br />
To become a working pro, start by working for the pros. Here’s<br />
our guide to getting your first assisting job—including everything you<br />
need to do to get hired back again.<br />
By Russell Hart<br />
24 Ask More<br />
Famed photographer and UCLA professor Catherine Opie talks to us<br />
about what it means to make—and look at—portraits. By Meg Ryan<br />
DEPARTMENTS<br />
4 Editor’s Letter When casting about for<br />
career ideas, d<strong>on</strong>’t forget weddings.<br />
34 Shoot This Get <strong>on</strong> the roof for an<br />
amazing new perspective.<br />
FILTER<br />
6 Two Years Out Lindsey Best had<br />
already g<strong>on</strong>e pro when she started school;<br />
here’s how her educati<strong>on</strong> pushed her farther.<br />
8 Books & Shows What to see: From a<br />
girl in the wild to boxers in Britain.<br />
12 Photo Realism Use social media to<br />
promote your work—the right way.<br />
TOOLS<br />
30 First Look S<strong>on</strong>y debuts its own series<br />
of super-high-quality lenses.<br />
31 Roundup The best of the latest<br />
cameras, compared.<br />
32 What It Takes Freeze the acti<strong>on</strong><br />
using a simple hot-shoe flash.<br />
24<br />
15<br />
20<br />
APRIL <strong>2016</strong><br />
POPPHOTO.COM/CAMPUS POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS 3
EDITOR’S LETTER<br />
On the<br />
Cover<br />
MASTER OF<br />
THE PORTRAIT<br />
“Nick,” 2003, from<br />
Catherine Opie’s<br />
Surfers series. Read<br />
more about this<br />
artist and<br />
professor’s<br />
approach <strong>on</strong><br />
page 24.<br />
An Overlooked<br />
Traditi<strong>on</strong>?<br />
Whether you’re graduating this<br />
spring or simply looking ahead,<br />
you may be w<strong>on</strong>dering how—or<br />
whether—you can build a career in photography.<br />
In this issue we directly address some of the practical questi<strong>on</strong>s with feature<br />
stories <strong>on</strong> assisting and which places, besides the photo meccas of New York<br />
and Los Angeles, to get your start.<br />
But there’s <strong>on</strong>e path that few aspiring artists, photojournalists, fashi<strong>on</strong><br />
shooters, or commercial photographers take seriously: wedding photography.<br />
You’d be surprised at how many successful pros in other genres of<br />
photography h<strong>on</strong>ed their skills by shooting weddings. Not just their<br />
photographic skills, but also their business practices, time management, and<br />
approach to clients. D<strong>on</strong>e right, wedding photography can help you pay off<br />
those student loans and earn a living.<br />
But even if you never plan to make wedding photography your career, or<br />
even a weekend job, chances are that so<strong>on</strong>er or later some<strong>on</strong>e will ask you to<br />
shoot their nuptials. It’s tougher than all those smartph<strong>on</strong>e-wielding guests<br />
and DSLR-slinging uncles of the bride might lead you to believe.<br />
We recently launched a channel <strong>on</strong> our website, PopPhoto.com/wedding,<br />
aimed at informing and inspiring photographers who are just getting into<br />
the bridal biz. Some of our own editors, including Web Editor Stan Horaczek,<br />
shoot several weddings each year as a side gig. “Have a c<strong>on</strong>tract,” he advises.<br />
“Also, d<strong>on</strong>’t try to learn new techniques right before a wedding; your focus<br />
has to be <strong>on</strong> learning the flow of the wedding. That’s why assisting is a good<br />
idea. The pacing is the hard part—taking the pictures is the easy part.”<br />
The rewards, he adds, can be more than financial. You get to capture<br />
people enjoying what is often the happiest day of their lives. And that is a<br />
pretty cool, and rare, opportunity.<br />
FROM TOP: CATHERINE OPIE/REGEN PROJECTS, LA AND LEHMANN MAUPIN, NY & HONG KONG; PETER HURLEY<br />
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF MIRIAM LEUCHTER<br />
ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Sarah Hughes<br />
FEATURES EDITOR Debbie Grossman<br />
SENIOR EDITOR Peter Kol<strong>on</strong>ia<br />
SENIOR TECHNOLOGY EDITOR Philip Ryan<br />
TECHNOLOGY MANAGER Julia Silber<br />
ASSISTANT TECHNOLOGY EDITOR Adam Ryder<br />
ASSISTANT EDITOR Sara Cravatts<br />
ART DIRECTOR Jas<strong>on</strong> Beckstead<br />
PHOTO EDITOR Fi<strong>on</strong>a Gardner<br />
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Jack Crager, Russell Hart,<br />
Meg Ryan, Allegra Wilde<br />
ONLINE EDITOR Stan Horaczek<br />
ASSISTANT ONLINE EDITOR Jeanette D. Moses<br />
BONNIER’S TECHNOLOGY GROUP<br />
VICE PRESIDENT, PUBLISHING DIRECTOR<br />
GREGORY D. GATTO<br />
FINANCIAL DIRECTOR Tara Bisciello<br />
GROUP NATIONAL ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Jeff Timm<br />
EASTERN SALES DIRECTOR Christine Sendelsky<br />
ACCOUNT MANAGER Chip Parham<br />
MIDWEST MANAGER Doug Leipprandt<br />
AD ASSISTANT Lindsay Kuhlmann<br />
DETROIT SALES DIRECTOR Jeff Roberge<br />
DIRECTOR OF CUSTOM SOLUTIONS Noreen Myers<br />
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, INTEGRATED MARKETING Brenda Oliveri<br />
SALES DEVELOPMENT MANAGER Elspeth Lodge<br />
DIGITAL SALES MANAGER Lee Verdecchia<br />
DIGITAL CAMPAIGN DIRECTOR Amanda Mays<br />
DIGITAL CAMPAIGN COORDINATOR Justin Ziccardi<br />
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, BRAND INTEGRATION Beth Hetrick<br />
CREATIVE SERVICES DIRECTOR Ingrid M. Reslmaier<br />
MARKETING DESIGN DIRECTORS J<strong>on</strong>athan Berger, Gabe Ramirez<br />
DIGITAL DESIGN MANAGER Steve Gianaca<br />
BRAND INTEGRATION DIRECTOR Michelle Cast<br />
ASSISTANT BRAND INTEGRATION MANAGER Vanessa Vazquez<br />
CONSUMER MARKETING DIRECTOR Andrew Schulman<br />
RETAIL SINGLE COPY SALES:<br />
PROCIRC RETAIL SOLUTIONS GROUP T<strong>on</strong>y DiBisceglie<br />
HUMAN RESOURCES DIRECTOR Kim Putman<br />
GROUP PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Michelle Doster<br />
PRODUCTION MANAGER Rick Andrews<br />
CHAIRMAN Tomas Franzén<br />
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Eric Zinczenko<br />
CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER David Ritchie<br />
CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER Elizabeth Burnham Murphy<br />
CHIEF DIGITAL REVENUE OFFICER Sean Holzman<br />
VICE PRESIDENT, INTEGRATED SALES John Graney<br />
VICE PRESIDENT, CONSUMER MARKETING John Reese<br />
VICE PRESIDENT, DIGITAL OPERATIONS David Butler<br />
VICE PRESIDENT, PUBLIC RELATIONS Perri Dorset<br />
GENERAL COUNSEL Jeremy Thomps<strong>on</strong><br />
COPYRIGHT © <strong>2016</strong> POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY<br />
Editorial c<strong>on</strong>tributi<strong>on</strong>s should be sent to <str<strong>on</strong>g>Popular</str<strong>on</strong>g> <str<strong>on</strong>g>Photography</str<strong>on</strong>g> <strong>on</strong> <strong>Campus</strong>, 2 Park Avenue,<br />
9th Floor, New York, NY 10016. Submissi<strong>on</strong>s must be accompanied by return post age and<br />
will be handled with reas<strong>on</strong>able care; however, publisher assumes no resp<strong>on</strong> sibility for the<br />
safety of unsolicited original artwork, photographs, slides, or manuscripts. For reprints,<br />
email reprints@b<strong>on</strong>niercorp.com. <str<strong>on</strong>g>Popular</str<strong>on</strong>g> <str<strong>on</strong>g>Photography</str<strong>on</strong>g> <strong>on</strong> <strong>Campus</strong>, <strong>April</strong> <strong>2016</strong>, Vol. 1,<br />
No. 4. Entire c<strong>on</strong>tents © <strong>2016</strong> B<strong>on</strong>nier Corporati<strong>on</strong>.<br />
4 POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS APRIL <strong>2016</strong>
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FILTER<br />
Books<br />
& Shows P.8<br />
Photo Realism P.12<br />
TWO YEARS OUT<br />
SOUND<br />
AND<br />
VISION<br />
Art Center grad<br />
Lindsey Best explores<br />
the emoti<strong>on</strong>s behind<br />
the scenes<br />
LINDSEY BEST fell in love with photography<br />
when she got a Polaroid<br />
as a young teenager, and she so<strong>on</strong><br />
combined it with another passi<strong>on</strong>:<br />
music. “I would go to shows and<br />
bring my film point-and-shoot<br />
camera with me,” Best recalls. “As I<br />
got older and got better equipment,<br />
I had to start figuring out how I<br />
could get my photo gear into these<br />
venues. That’s when I started trying<br />
to reach out to bands and navigate<br />
how that world worked.”<br />
By the time she graduated from<br />
California’s Agoura Hills High<br />
School, she had started shooting<br />
c<strong>on</strong>certs with official credentials,<br />
often <strong>on</strong> assignment for local<br />
publicati<strong>on</strong>s. Though she knew she<br />
wanted to be a photographer, she<br />
enrolled at San Diego City College<br />
to study physical and biological<br />
anthropology. “I wasn’t yet ready to<br />
put my academic studies behind<br />
me, so I took two years of classes<br />
studying n<strong>on</strong>-photography fields<br />
while taking photo classes <strong>on</strong> the<br />
side,” she says. “I wanted to have a<br />
well rounded bank of knowledge to<br />
draw <strong>on</strong> for my art.”<br />
Meanwhile, Best c<strong>on</strong>tinued her<br />
photo practice. After leaving City<br />
College, she says, “I spent three<br />
years trying to establish myself as<br />
a music photographer, developing<br />
my portfolio and networking as<br />
much as I could.”<br />
Gradually she put together a<br />
client list including Rolling St<strong>on</strong>e,<br />
Crawdaddy!, Pitchfork Media, Urban<br />
Outfitters, Blue Man Group, Premier<br />
Guitar, Pedal Punk, LA Weekly,<br />
and Live Nati<strong>on</strong>. “I’ve primarily<br />
marketed my music work in the<br />
editorial world, and also directly to<br />
artists, labels, management, and<br />
show venues,” she says. “One of the<br />
most important things has been<br />
understanding the range of potential<br />
places that my work could live.<br />
This is something I’m c<strong>on</strong>stantly<br />
expanding up<strong>on</strong>.”<br />
Meanwhile Best had a l<strong>on</strong>g-term<br />
dream of studying at Art Center<br />
College of Design—“It seemed that<br />
all the best photo students went <strong>on</strong><br />
to go there,” she recalls—and she<br />
enrolled at the Pasadena campus<br />
as a photo major in 2011. “It was<br />
SUBWAY<br />
STRUMMER<br />
Best captured this<br />
image of a<br />
musician playing<br />
<strong>on</strong> a subway<br />
platform using her<br />
Apple iPh<strong>on</strong>e 5s in<br />
Chicago, in 2014.<br />
6 POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS APRIL <strong>2016</strong>
LINDSEY BEST (2)<br />
important for me to go into Art<br />
Center knowing what I wanted to<br />
get out of it, in order to maximize<br />
my time there.”<br />
Having graduated in 2014, she<br />
credits her BFA program with burnishing<br />
the skill of follow-through.<br />
“Art Center gave me the mentality<br />
of c<strong>on</strong>stantly working <strong>on</strong> something<br />
and seeing it through from<br />
the c<strong>on</strong>cepti<strong>on</strong> stage to executi<strong>on</strong>,”<br />
she notes. “So many people<br />
have ideas that they think about<br />
for years and then never end up<br />
executing. The ability to go from<br />
<strong>on</strong>e stage to the next is something<br />
I’m grateful to my instructors for<br />
helping instill. I am always making<br />
work; and when I’m not shooting, I<br />
am thinking about ideas I’d like to<br />
make into photographs.”<br />
During college, Best expanded<br />
her stylistic range, adding formal<br />
portraiture, landscapes, and stilllife<br />
work to her portfolio. “All my<br />
work stems from the same place<br />
c<strong>on</strong>ceptually,” she says. “I have<br />
always been more interested in<br />
showing what an experience felt<br />
like rather than just showing what<br />
something looked like. I think every<br />
image is made up of the base layer<br />
of data and literal informati<strong>on</strong>—<br />
but I always want my images to go<br />
bey<strong>on</strong>d that layer, and show the<br />
emoti<strong>on</strong>al experience of what a<br />
moment feels like.”<br />
In c<strong>on</strong>cert venues—especially<br />
shooting major artists such as the<br />
Rolling St<strong>on</strong>es, Radiohead, or U2—<br />
Best is often relegated to the “three<br />
s<strong>on</strong>gs in the pit” rules for photographers.<br />
Yet her work for editorial<br />
clients and music labels has led to<br />
NO DOUBT<br />
At a 2009 No<br />
Doubt c<strong>on</strong>cert in<br />
Irvine, CA, Best<br />
captured Gwen<br />
Stefani and T<strong>on</strong>y<br />
Kanal with a Nik<strong>on</strong><br />
D200. The shot ran<br />
in L.A. Record.<br />
close l<strong>on</strong>g-term collaborati<strong>on</strong>s with<br />
artists such as C<strong>on</strong>or Oberst and<br />
Jas<strong>on</strong> Isbell. “Every time I photograph<br />
some<strong>on</strong>e I feel like I discover<br />
facets of who the pers<strong>on</strong> is that<br />
I want to illuminate. C<strong>on</strong>or and<br />
Jas<strong>on</strong> are two of my favorite musicians<br />
with whom I have had that<br />
kind of experience. I’ve been able to<br />
explore and tell a deeper story.”<br />
Such impulses led her to take up<br />
the camera in the first place. “<str<strong>on</strong>g>Photography</str<strong>on</strong>g><br />
lets you take an experience<br />
and express it in such a way<br />
that it is felt as a human story, and<br />
not just specific to <strong>on</strong>e individual<br />
pers<strong>on</strong> or situati<strong>on</strong>,” she says. “As<br />
human beings we all tap into the<br />
same emoti<strong>on</strong>s, and as an artist I<br />
love the challenge of translating<br />
those emoti<strong>on</strong>s into visuals.”<br />
—Jack Crager<br />
POPPHOTO.COM/CAMPUS POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS 7
FILTER BOOKS & SHOWS<br />
TECH-AGE WASTELAND<br />
Nick Brandt finds envir<strong>on</strong>mental peril in the land of his grand animal portraits<br />
INHERIT THE DUST By Nick Brandt<br />
Edwynn Houk Editi<strong>on</strong>s, $65<br />
Nick Brandt’s latest project is both gorgeous and<br />
disturbing: He applies his stately animal portraiture<br />
to a potent caveat about the Earth’s fate. Brandt<br />
returns to East Africa, where he photographed<br />
his artful trilogy of wildlife imagery: On This Earth<br />
(2005), A Shadow Falls (2009), and Across the Ravaged<br />
Land (2013). This time around, he places life-sized<br />
panels of great and endangered species—elephants,<br />
rhinos, zebras, li<strong>on</strong>s, apes—in locales where the<br />
animals <strong>on</strong>ce roamed, now littered with industrial<br />
detritus from factories, dumpsites, quarries, highway<br />
underpasses, and other manmade intrusi<strong>on</strong>s. The<br />
message is immediate and visceral: Our natural<br />
world is disappearing at an alarming rate.<br />
Always a formal portraitist, Brandt has carefully<br />
composed each panorama so that the natural<br />
backdrop in his life-size print looks like it could be<br />
the same landscape as its now-littered envir<strong>on</strong>s.<br />
Meanwhile workers labor, scavengers forage,<br />
squatters camp, and townspeople stroll through the<br />
wasteland, oblivious to the animals’ ghostlike images.<br />
“The result is an eloquent and complex ‘J’accuse,’”<br />
writes Vicki Goldberg in her blurb, “for the people are<br />
as victimized by ‘development’ as the animals are.”<br />
Brandt has deftly turned his art into a call for acti<strong>on</strong>.<br />
JESSE BURKE: WILD AND PRECIOUS Rhode Island School<br />
of Design, Providence, RI, through Sept. 25 risdmuseum.org<br />
As something of an encore to Burke’s 2015 m<strong>on</strong>ograph of the same<br />
title, RISD is staging an exhibiti<strong>on</strong> of the project. Over a five-year period<br />
Burke traveled across America with his daughter, Clover, exploring the<br />
w<strong>on</strong>ders of nature and the experience of the open road. The resulting<br />
images reflect up<strong>on</strong> childhood misadventures (cuts, bruises, bloody<br />
noses) as well as poignant moments (portraits <strong>on</strong> the beach and in the<br />
woods). It’s a tender mix of images exploring childhood, parenthood,<br />
compani<strong>on</strong>ship, and a sweet life <strong>on</strong> the move.<br />
FROM TOP: NICK BRANDT, COURTESY OF EDWYNN HOUK GALLERY. NEW YORK; JESSE BURKE<br />
8 POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS APRIL <strong>2016</strong>
POPPHOTO.COM/CAMPUS POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS 9
FILTER BOOKS & SHOWS<br />
MODERN KIDS By J<strong>on</strong>a<br />
Frank Kerher Verlag, $40<br />
In her third m<strong>on</strong>ograph,<br />
photographer and filmmaker<br />
J<strong>on</strong>a Frank c<strong>on</strong>tinues to explore<br />
adolescence and coming-ofage<br />
with a look at the boxing<br />
community in Ellesmere Port, a<br />
suburb of Liverpool, England. Her<br />
portraits of boxers in the gym<br />
evoke the smell of sweat-stained<br />
leather, while her atmospheric<br />
images of British suburbia and<br />
youthful couples lend universality<br />
to a specific place. “J<strong>on</strong>a gets to<br />
this crazy level of emoti<strong>on</strong> and<br />
intimacy that most photographers<br />
hope for with the people in fr<strong>on</strong>t of<br />
their camera,” writes Bruce Weber<br />
in his intro. “Her photographs and<br />
film are a poem about memory—<br />
lost and regained.”<br />
GOWANUS WATERS<br />
By Steven Hirsch<br />
powerHouse, $45<br />
Through Hirsch’s lens, the polluted<br />
waters of Brooklyn’s Gowanus<br />
Canal are iridescent abstracti<strong>on</strong>s,<br />
a painter’s palette of colorscapes<br />
in which oil, water, chemicals,<br />
and foliage blend in psychedelic<br />
patterns. It would be lovely if not<br />
for the underlying decay. While<br />
the surrounding dumps, oil depots,<br />
and bus yards remain, the canal’s<br />
Superfund designati<strong>on</strong> may<br />
someday render these chemical<br />
combos obsolete—a good thing.<br />
PREVIOUS PAGE<br />
Nick Brandt’s<br />
“Factory with<br />
Rhino, 2014”;<br />
Jesse Burke’s<br />
“Flesh and Blood.”<br />
THIS PAGE:<br />
(clockwise from<br />
top) J<strong>on</strong>a Frank’s<br />
“Mas<strong>on</strong>, Training,<br />
2012”; Carrie Mae<br />
Weems’ “Untitled<br />
(Man in Mirror)”;<br />
Steven Hirsch’s<br />
“Psamathe, 2014.”<br />
CARRIE MAE WEEMS:<br />
CONSIDERED Savannah<br />
College of Art and Design,<br />
Savannah, GA, through<br />
June 12 scad.edu<br />
A three-decade retrospective<br />
of Weems’ photography, this<br />
exhibiti<strong>on</strong> covers a wide range<br />
of topics and styles, all united<br />
by the artist’s blend of historical<br />
references, social activism, and<br />
wit. In projects ranging from her<br />
starkly composed Kitchen Table<br />
series to the m<strong>on</strong>tages of From<br />
Here I Saw What Happened and I<br />
Cried, Weems explores complex<br />
emoti<strong>on</strong>al and socioec<strong>on</strong>omic<br />
themes, delving far below the<br />
surface through photography.<br />
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: JONA FRANK; CARRIE MAE WEEMS, COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND JACK SHAINMAN GALLERY, NEW YORK; STEVEN HIRSCH<br />
10 POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS APRIL <strong>2016</strong>
FILTER PHOTO REALISM<br />
#ENGAGE<br />
Simplify your social media presentati<strong>on</strong><br />
LET’S IMAGINE for a minute that<br />
the <strong>on</strong>line audience you present<br />
your photos to, and aim to impress,<br />
would actually spend time with<br />
your pictures—lingering over them,<br />
taking in their story and yours—<br />
before pushing the Like butt<strong>on</strong> or<br />
commenting. Sounds like a dream,<br />
right?<br />
Unfortunately, most of the time,<br />
it’s a complete fantasy that your<br />
viewers will do anything like that.<br />
Typically they spend a few sec<strong>on</strong>ds<br />
(if you’re lucky) <strong>on</strong> your individual<br />
photographs, including<br />
recent Facebook and Instagram<br />
posts, as well as the fr<strong>on</strong>t page of<br />
your website or Tumblr. (See the<br />
February issue for specific tips<br />
about those.) And if people have<br />
to read an explanati<strong>on</strong> of your<br />
images, bey<strong>on</strong>d a title, capti<strong>on</strong>, or<br />
hashtag…well, they just w<strong>on</strong>’t.<br />
But, there are two things you<br />
can do to increase engagement<br />
with your social networks that will<br />
help grab the attenti<strong>on</strong> of your<br />
audience, and even keep their<br />
eyes <strong>on</strong> your work l<strong>on</strong>g enough to<br />
“invest” by commenting <strong>on</strong> and<br />
even sharing your images.<br />
First, c<strong>on</strong>sider the words you<br />
use. Most of the photographers I<br />
know and follow, both emergent<br />
and established, are often uncomfortable<br />
writing about themselves<br />
and their photos. I’ve met with<br />
many of you at portfolio reviews<br />
and school events, and I see a lot of<br />
struggling with an “elevator pitch”<br />
or artist’s statement that sums up<br />
the entirety of your work. (That<br />
goes for current projects and individual<br />
images, too.)<br />
So how about we lose the copy?<br />
It’s better to choose an image that<br />
has intrinsic visual power that<br />
needs no explanati<strong>on</strong> or c<strong>on</strong>text.<br />
One that is just awesome. Especially<br />
<strong>on</strong> your Facebook posts:<br />
Include <strong>on</strong>ly a quick capti<strong>on</strong> or<br />
title, a link to your site, or nothing<br />
at all. Let your audience get<br />
curious and ask questi<strong>on</strong>s, then<br />
you can resp<strong>on</strong>d to them in the<br />
comments. The comments secti<strong>on</strong><br />
is a better place <strong>on</strong> Facebook<br />
to add info, links, and descripti<strong>on</strong><br />
than at the top of the post. L<strong>on</strong>g<br />
explanati<strong>on</strong>s are a waste of time,<br />
will probably go unread, and will<br />
visually step <strong>on</strong> the image that<br />
accompanies them.<br />
I’ve seen overly wordy artist’s<br />
statements <strong>on</strong> Instagram, too.<br />
This time they’re in the comments<br />
secti<strong>on</strong>, but the same<br />
advice applies. A simple hashtag<br />
or capti<strong>on</strong> and a link to see more<br />
work suffices and will help your<br />
audience engage without feeling<br />
the pressure to read—and not<br />
see—your story.<br />
My sec<strong>on</strong>d tip: Mind the grid. In<br />
most social sites, it is possible to<br />
see a mosaic of all of your recent<br />
photos in <strong>on</strong>e place. This is by<br />
default <strong>on</strong> your Instagram profile,<br />
and it happens when you click<br />
through to photos <strong>on</strong> Facebook.<br />
It is important to be c<strong>on</strong>scious<br />
of the order and design of the<br />
way your images appear in those<br />
grids. They are an immediate representati<strong>on</strong><br />
of you as a photographer.<br />
The pictures d<strong>on</strong>’t need<br />
to be uniformly thematic or narrowly<br />
focused <strong>on</strong> a particular subject<br />
or series. But you want the<br />
viewer’s eye to travel over the grid<br />
and absorb an overall tightness of<br />
your aesthetic, color, and compositi<strong>on</strong>.<br />
If you arrange and upload<br />
your photos with some forethought<br />
to the sequence within<br />
that grid, it will, in additi<strong>on</strong>, give<br />
any slideshow view some muchneeded<br />
rhythm.<br />
This may mean not putting<br />
photos that are too similar next<br />
to each other, and alternating<br />
your color scheme and compositi<strong>on</strong>.<br />
Or, you can get more specific<br />
with your grid— perhaps by<br />
always using the same frame/<br />
border, color palette, or compositi<strong>on</strong>al<br />
rules. The point is to make<br />
the first quick read of your profile<br />
page very, very succinct.<br />
It may not be obvious, but paying<br />
attenti<strong>on</strong> to this overview, as<br />
well as to what you write about<br />
each photo, helps your audience<br />
perceive you as a serious photographer<br />
and aids in your ability<br />
to stand out. If you can stand<br />
out, it’s the first step in engaging<br />
with your viewers and instilling<br />
in them an interest in spreading<br />
your message. —Allegra Wilde<br />
PLAN THE GRID<br />
Your Instagram feed<br />
is a miniature<br />
introducti<strong>on</strong> to your<br />
work, so curate it<br />
as such.<br />
MEET THE<br />
AUTHOR<br />
The cofounder and<br />
chief operati<strong>on</strong>s<br />
officer of Eyeist, the<br />
<strong>on</strong>line portfolio review<br />
service, Allegra Wilde<br />
is a visual strategist,<br />
creative director, and<br />
c<strong>on</strong>sultant to artists,<br />
photographers, and artbased<br />
businesses. She<br />
has served as an MFA<br />
mentor at the School<br />
of Visual Arts and as<br />
a visiting instructor at<br />
Art Center College of<br />
Design, FIT, and many<br />
other university photography<br />
programs.<br />
CONTINUE THE<br />
CONVERSATION<br />
facebook.com/<br />
PopPhotoRealism<br />
twitter.com/<br />
PopPhotoRealism<br />
ALLEGRA WILDE (2)<br />
12 POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS APRIL <strong>2016</strong>
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AUGUST 31, <strong>2016</strong><br />
FREE TO ENTER: For the c<strong>on</strong>test rules and prizes, please visit<br />
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POPPHOTO.COM/CAMPUS POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS 15
YOUR<br />
NEXT<br />
MOVE<br />
After graduati<strong>on</strong>, scores<br />
of young photographers<br />
will descend up<strong>on</strong> New<br />
York and L.A. to seek<br />
their fortunes. Want<br />
to stand out from the<br />
crowd? D<strong>on</strong>’t join it. We<br />
talked to four shooters<br />
who owe their success<br />
to their surprising<br />
locati<strong>on</strong>s.<br />
By Sara Cravatts<br />
LIFE OUTSIDE<br />
THE METROPOLIS<br />
Photographers Joe<br />
Riis, Rush Jagoe,<br />
Holly Andres, and<br />
Pao Houa Her,<br />
(clockwise from<br />
top left), are<br />
building successful<br />
careers away from<br />
big cities.<br />
POPPHOTO.COM/CAMPUS POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS 15
Joe Riis<br />
31, Pierre, South Dakota; University of Wyoming ’08<br />
FOR PHOTOGRAPHER Joe Riis,<br />
the decisi<strong>on</strong> to move to western<br />
Wyoming after his college graduati<strong>on</strong><br />
was <strong>on</strong>e born from a passi<strong>on</strong><br />
for wildlife rather than an explicit<br />
career strategy. “The day I graduated<br />
college in May of 2008 is when<br />
I started photographing full-time,”<br />
Riis says. “I moved into my pickup<br />
and photographed the pr<strong>on</strong>ghorn<br />
migrati<strong>on</strong> for two years, which is<br />
how I got the attenti<strong>on</strong> of the editors<br />
I wanted to work for.”<br />
Those editors were from Nati<strong>on</strong>al<br />
Geographic Magazine, where Riis is<br />
now a c<strong>on</strong>tracted, regularly c<strong>on</strong>tributing<br />
freelance photographer.<br />
Choosing to forge a career away<br />
from photo-centric cities like New<br />
York and Los Angeles was easy<br />
for Riis, now based in rural South<br />
Dakota, because he needed to<br />
reside in a locati<strong>on</strong> c<strong>on</strong>ducive to<br />
his nature photography. He moved<br />
with a subject in mind above all<br />
else. Riis points out that photographers<br />
can live wherever they<br />
please, as “nowadays it’s easy to<br />
communicate with editors, and it<br />
all comes down to their trust in<br />
your ability to handle the fieldwork<br />
and come back with the images.”<br />
It is important to live in a locati<strong>on</strong><br />
that is c<strong>on</strong>sistent with the<br />
subjects you want to photograph:<br />
If you want to shoot landscapes,<br />
live somewhere you can easily do<br />
so; if street scenes are your calling,<br />
choose an urban home. Identifying<br />
a subject matter that is not<br />
widely covered, and reporting <strong>on</strong><br />
it in depth with beautiful images<br />
CAMPFIRE<br />
Yellowst<strong>on</strong>e<br />
backcountry, June<br />
2014.<br />
BULL ELK<br />
Also Yellowst<strong>on</strong>e<br />
backcountry,<br />
October 2014.<br />
can be a great way to attract<br />
the attenti<strong>on</strong> of publicati<strong>on</strong>s. In<br />
Riis’s opini<strong>on</strong>, prioritizing your<br />
passi<strong>on</strong> is always the way to go.<br />
“Pick a story that you deeply and<br />
pers<strong>on</strong>ally care about, and photograph<br />
it for a l<strong>on</strong>g time. Make<br />
pictures of that subject that<br />
have never been made, dive in<br />
and become a part of the story.”<br />
Career success, if you market<br />
yourself accordingly, will follow.<br />
JOE RIIS (2)<br />
16 POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS APRIL <strong>2016</strong>
PAO HOUA HER (2)<br />
HMONG VETERAN<br />
A portrait of a<br />
Hm<strong>on</strong>g man taken<br />
in Saint Paul,<br />
Minnesota in 2012<br />
from Her’s Desire<br />
series.<br />
YA AT THE<br />
SWIMMING POOL<br />
Shot in Eagan,<br />
Minnesota, 2011<br />
also from Desire.<br />
Pao Houa Her<br />
33, Lino Lakes, Minnesota;<br />
Minneapolis College of<br />
Art and Design ’09 and<br />
Yale University ’12<br />
“IF YOU HAD asked me a few years<br />
ago if I would ever go to Yale and<br />
live <strong>on</strong> the East Coast, I would have<br />
said no,” recalls Pao Houa Her of<br />
her time spent earning an MFA in<br />
New Haven, CT. After exploring<br />
the area and graduating, she went<br />
home to Minnesota to pursue her<br />
goal of working as a professi<strong>on</strong>al<br />
photographer.<br />
For Her, the decisi<strong>on</strong> to return to<br />
her home state was both practical<br />
and passi<strong>on</strong>ate. She is part of<br />
Minnesota’s tight-knit community<br />
of Hm<strong>on</strong>g, who arrived there over<br />
40 years ago after the Vietnam<br />
War. That culture, and Minnesota<br />
itself, is a frequent subject of her<br />
work. There were also logistics to<br />
c<strong>on</strong>sider: “In New York or L.A. there<br />
is such a high density of photographers<br />
that it can be harder to<br />
get resources. I’m not sure I would<br />
have the same funding that I do<br />
here if I were to live somewhere<br />
else,” she says.<br />
Setting yourself apart from the<br />
competiti<strong>on</strong> is a definite plus,<br />
but moving too far out can pose<br />
another challenge: staying relevant.<br />
Her says that in order to make sure<br />
her work is seen she makes a point<br />
to c<strong>on</strong>nect with the right people.<br />
“You have to take all opportunities<br />
available whether it’s knowing<br />
which critics are coming to your<br />
city or having a c<strong>on</strong>versati<strong>on</strong> with<br />
a curator,” she says. Your physical<br />
locati<strong>on</strong> can serve many purposes<br />
for your career, but first and foremost<br />
it should inspire your work.<br />
“I get all of my ideas from where I<br />
am,” the photographer says.<br />
POPPHOTO.COM/CAMPUS POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS 17
Holly Andres<br />
38, Portland, Oreg<strong>on</strong>;<br />
University of M<strong>on</strong>tana ’02 and<br />
Portland State University ’04<br />
“I FELL IN love with Portland during<br />
graduate school,” says photographer<br />
Holly Andres, “and I’ve found a very<br />
supportive and creative community<br />
of people here.” In additi<strong>on</strong> to the<br />
people, the envir<strong>on</strong>ment itself has<br />
been an inspirati<strong>on</strong>. “If I was a studio<br />
photographer my locati<strong>on</strong> wouldn’t<br />
matter as much,” she says, “but since<br />
I work <strong>on</strong> locati<strong>on</strong>, it’s important to<br />
me to live in a place that offers me<br />
inspirati<strong>on</strong> and access.”<br />
When choosing a place to live, you<br />
must first c<strong>on</strong>sider what you need<br />
to make your pictures. Your envir<strong>on</strong>ment<br />
should support your photography—not<br />
get in the way. And d<strong>on</strong>’t<br />
forget cost. “New York and L.A. are<br />
both very expensive places to work<br />
in terms of locati<strong>on</strong>s and permits,”<br />
explains Andres. When you can keep<br />
DAWN: BELMONT<br />
HOUSE<br />
Andres made the<br />
above image for<br />
her series The<br />
Fallen Fawn. Shot<br />
in Portland,<br />
Oreg<strong>on</strong> in 2014.<br />
MARIEL<br />
HEMINGWAY<br />
Shot for the New<br />
York Times<br />
Magazine in 2013;<br />
Malibu, California.<br />
both your shooting and living costs<br />
down, you can focus more directly<br />
<strong>on</strong> your craft. “Living in Portland<br />
has allowed me to support a more<br />
creative-focused life,” she says.<br />
Andres has also found that keeping<br />
industry eyes <strong>on</strong> her work is not<br />
as challenging as it may have <strong>on</strong>ce<br />
been. “The world is simultaneously<br />
getting smaller as it gets bigger,”<br />
she says. “Social media platforms<br />
like Instagram have c<strong>on</strong>nected<br />
people in the photography industry<br />
in ways that were unimaginable<br />
<strong>on</strong>ly a few years ago.” Why<br />
pay to live in N.Y.C. or L.A. when<br />
staying relevant can be as easy as<br />
an Instagram post?<br />
HOLLY ANDRES (2)<br />
18 POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS APRIL <strong>2016</strong>
RUSH JAGOE (2)<br />
Rush Jagoe<br />
27, New Orleans, Louisiana; Western Kentucky University ’07<br />
WHEN WE asked Rush Jagoe how<br />
he decided where to begin his<br />
professi<strong>on</strong>al career, he resp<strong>on</strong>ded:<br />
“It was pretty whimsical.” His<br />
sp<strong>on</strong>taneous move to New Orleans<br />
in 2009 proved to be fateful, and he<br />
has been living and shooting there<br />
professi<strong>on</strong>ally ever since.<br />
Am<strong>on</strong>g the many perks of his<br />
colorful Louisiana envir<strong>on</strong>ment are<br />
the characters he can meet and<br />
capture everyday. “I have a lot of<br />
friends who moved to New York,<br />
and they were doing interesting<br />
things but they also <strong>on</strong>ly hung<br />
out with other photographers. I<br />
wanted to live in a more diverse<br />
community of people.”<br />
Like the other shooters we spoke<br />
with, Jagoe described his photography<br />
as being heavily influenced by<br />
his society and surroundings. “The<br />
culture and traditi<strong>on</strong>s [in New<br />
Orleans] are very rich,” he explains,<br />
and “the kinds of people who make<br />
Louisiana their home are very<br />
interesting to me. It can be harder<br />
to focus <strong>on</strong> <strong>on</strong>e pers<strong>on</strong>’s story and<br />
legacy in a bigger city.”<br />
One drawback of living outside<br />
WADING<br />
Portrait of hog<br />
hunter John-Henry<br />
Trant taken in<br />
<strong>2016</strong> for Jagoe’s<br />
pers<strong>on</strong>al portfolio.<br />
BIRD ON A<br />
SHOULDER<br />
Quintr<strong>on</strong> at City<br />
Park in New<br />
Orleans. Taken for<br />
Airlift in 2015.<br />
of a major photography market:<br />
You are required to travel for<br />
some jobs. “You have to get used<br />
to dropping whatever you are<br />
doing to go shoot an assignment<br />
in New York,” Jagoe cauti<strong>on</strong>s, but<br />
it is an inc<strong>on</strong>venience he is willing<br />
to live with.<br />
When Jagoe reflects <strong>on</strong> his<br />
decisi<strong>on</strong> to pick up and move his<br />
life to New Orleans, he focuses<br />
most <strong>on</strong> his deep investment in<br />
his adopted home. “Go somewhere<br />
that you think is interesting,<br />
not just somewhere you are<br />
told to go. Take a lot of pictures.<br />
Make work c<strong>on</strong>stantly whether<br />
you are getting paid for it or not.”<br />
POPPHOTO.COM/CAMPUS POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS 19
READY, SET,<br />
ASSIST<br />
Want to be a working pro? Start by<br />
working for the pros. Here’s how to get<br />
your first assisting job—and what you<br />
need to know to do it right.<br />
By Russell Hart<br />
20 POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS APRIL <strong>2016</strong>
GET ON THE JOB<br />
Photographer<br />
Marvin Orellana<br />
captured this<br />
image of a photo<br />
shoot in progress<br />
for the New York<br />
Times.<br />
MARVIN ORELLANA; ISTOCK.COM/MICHAEL_H_REEDHOTMAILCOM<br />
“THERE ARE milli<strong>on</strong>s of people<br />
out there who can make gorgeous<br />
pictures,” says New York-based<br />
Will Styer, a Rochester Institute of<br />
Technology grad who, after several<br />
years of assisting, shoots still lifes<br />
for clients such as Esquire, Armani,<br />
and Ralph Lauren. “But a lot of<br />
what goes into being a professi<strong>on</strong>al<br />
photographer is dealing<br />
with clients, solving problems as a<br />
team, and making sure things go<br />
smoothly <strong>on</strong> the day of the shoot—<br />
skills that have nothing to do with<br />
actual photography.” Want to learn<br />
these skills so you can succeed as a<br />
pro? Start by assisting.<br />
1Sell yourself.<br />
Put together a portfolio<br />
that shows off your creative<br />
and technical prowess. Then<br />
customize it to the photographer<br />
you want to work for; if he or she<br />
relies mainly <strong>on</strong> studio lighting,<br />
for example, include images that<br />
show your ability with lights.<br />
Build a solid website and keep it<br />
updated, so that any<strong>on</strong>e hiring has<br />
a reference. Then go for it. “As l<strong>on</strong>g<br />
as you’re upfr<strong>on</strong>t with a photographer<br />
you want to assist about your<br />
knowledge and experience, it’s<br />
never too so<strong>on</strong>,” says Styer. “You<br />
d<strong>on</strong>’t have to know how equipment<br />
works to carry it. Be h<strong>on</strong>est<br />
about your abilities and realistic in<br />
your expectati<strong>on</strong>s.”<br />
2Decide how you<br />
want to work.<br />
Should you work full-time<br />
for <strong>on</strong>e photographer or freelance<br />
with different photographers who<br />
use assistants as needed? “There<br />
are pros and c<strong>on</strong>s to each,” says<br />
New York advertising and<br />
editorial photographer Jack<br />
Reznicki, who assisted for<br />
five years after getting his<br />
BFA from RIT and now shoots<br />
for big-ticket clients such as Hyatt,<br />
AT&T, and The Wall Street Journal.<br />
“With full-time work, you get to<br />
see the entire producti<strong>on</strong> from<br />
first ph<strong>on</strong>e call to finished product.<br />
As a freelancer you usually see<br />
<strong>on</strong>ly a piece of the process, but you<br />
experience a lot more different<br />
kinds of shooting,” he adds. James<br />
Porto, an influential high-c<strong>on</strong>cept<br />
photographer, thinks you should<br />
do both. “The ideal path would be<br />
to work for a single photographer<br />
who you admire for at least a year,<br />
then to freelance for multiple photographers,”<br />
Porto says. “Freelancing<br />
pays better, too.”<br />
3Pick your<br />
bosses wisely.<br />
Either way, hire yourself<br />
out to photographers you can<br />
learn from. Look at their work,<br />
especially in magazines and other<br />
print media, and when you make<br />
c<strong>on</strong>tact tell them where you’ve<br />
seen it and why you like it. If you<br />
know what kind of work you want<br />
to do, assist photographers who<br />
do it; if you’re still trying to decide,<br />
mix it up. In the process, you may<br />
even find a mentor.<br />
4Choose the best<br />
way to make<br />
c<strong>on</strong>tact.<br />
Email may seem the easiest and<br />
least obnoxious, but it’s also easy<br />
to ignore. “I think ph<strong>on</strong>e calls are<br />
better and more pers<strong>on</strong>al than<br />
email,” says Reznicki. “With the<br />
first call I usually say I can’t talk<br />
then, but I tell them to call me<br />
back at a certain time. What’s<br />
amazing is that <strong>on</strong>ly about 25<br />
percent of people follow through<br />
with that request.” The remaining<br />
75 percent, says Reznicki, “d<strong>on</strong>’t<br />
get through the door,” even if they<br />
call back some other time.<br />
5Be persistent<br />
but polite.<br />
“I’m not going to remember<br />
you from <strong>on</strong>e interacti<strong>on</strong>,” says<br />
T<strong>on</strong>y Gale, an assistant-turnedphotographer<br />
who has taught<br />
assisting workshops co-sp<strong>on</strong>sored<br />
by American Photographic Artists<br />
(APA, of which he’s now president)<br />
and S<strong>on</strong>y, to whose Artisans of<br />
Imagery group he bel<strong>on</strong>gs. “Being<br />
c<strong>on</strong>sistent is important. I would<br />
suggest trying a few different ways<br />
to reach out—postcards, email,<br />
social media. Just d<strong>on</strong>’t do them<br />
all at <strong>on</strong>ce or too frequently.”<br />
6Do whatever<br />
needs to be d<strong>on</strong>e.<br />
Once you start assisting,<br />
know your place. “As an assistant,<br />
your job is to make the shoot as<br />
smooth as possible,” says Gale.<br />
“That might mean setting up<br />
lights, but it could also mean<br />
mopping the bathroom. D<strong>on</strong>’t be<br />
reluctant to get your hands dirty.”<br />
7Be seen and<br />
not heard.<br />
“Unless you’re the first<br />
assistant and know exactly what’s<br />
going <strong>on</strong>, you w<strong>on</strong>’t endear yourself<br />
to the boss by always putting<br />
in your two cents <strong>on</strong> set,” says<br />
Reznicki, who recalls an assistant<br />
who gave unsolicited<br />
advice in fr<strong>on</strong>t<br />
of a client. “He<br />
didn’t realize<br />
that there was<br />
also a political<br />
aspect to the problem,”<br />
the photographer<br />
says. “I never<br />
hired him again.”<br />
POPPHOTO.COM/CAMPUS POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS 21
ISTOCK.COM/MR_MORTON; ISTOCK.COM/BARRAND<br />
8Bring<br />
your own<br />
“kit.”<br />
Pack simple tools and materials<br />
that will reduce your need to ask<br />
for things—a multipurpose pocket<br />
tool, clamps, gaffer’s tape, a roll<br />
of black foil to c<strong>on</strong>trol light, a pad<br />
and pen for keeping notes, Power<br />
Bars so you w<strong>on</strong>’t have to work<br />
<strong>on</strong> an empty stomach. “I used to<br />
bring memory cards, which more<br />
than <strong>on</strong>ce solved what could have<br />
been a huge problem,” says Gale.<br />
9Anticipate the<br />
photographer’s<br />
needs.<br />
D<strong>on</strong>’t make the photographer ask<br />
for everything he or she wants<br />
you to do—go ahead and start to<br />
do it. Be judicious, though. “Some<br />
of my assistants know exactly<br />
what needs to be d<strong>on</strong>e before I<br />
even tell them because they’ve<br />
worked with me so l<strong>on</strong>g,” says<br />
Styer. “But if it’s your first time<br />
assisting a particular photographer,<br />
I’d pay close attenti<strong>on</strong> and<br />
just be ready when you’re asked<br />
to do something.”<br />
10 Ask<br />
questi<strong>on</strong>s.<br />
D<strong>on</strong>’t be afraid to<br />
admit what you d<strong>on</strong>’t know. Your<br />
boss knows you’re there not just<br />
to earn some m<strong>on</strong>ey, but also to<br />
BE A JOINER<br />
Join professi<strong>on</strong>al<br />
photographers’<br />
groups such as<br />
PPA, APA, and<br />
ASMP, and volunteer<br />
to work at<br />
their c<strong>on</strong>venti<strong>on</strong>s.<br />
These groups often<br />
offer discounted<br />
student memberships<br />
and maintain<br />
searchable assistant<br />
databases<br />
that can help you<br />
find work.<br />
learn. Just d<strong>on</strong>’t overdo it—after all,<br />
you took Photo I in school. “Be c<strong>on</strong>fident,<br />
but be teachable,” advises<br />
veteran Minneapolis-based assistant<br />
Tim Olsen, who maintains<br />
APhotoAssistant.com, a website<br />
dedicated to assisting.<br />
11<br />
Be ready.<br />
Sometimes photographers<br />
need assistants<br />
at very short notice—<br />
especially if a member of<br />
their go-to crew can’t take<br />
<strong>on</strong> the assignment. Lastminute<br />
substituti<strong>on</strong>s can<br />
lead to regular work.<br />
12“If you pay attenti<strong>on</strong>,<br />
Have a positive<br />
attitude.<br />
listen, and can focus <strong>on</strong> a task,<br />
that’s what I care most about,”<br />
says Gale. “Knowing more is always<br />
good, but if I’m going to spend<br />
from six hours to several days with<br />
some<strong>on</strong>e, pers<strong>on</strong>ality is important.”<br />
13<br />
D<strong>on</strong>’t use your<br />
smartph<strong>on</strong>e<br />
<strong>on</strong> set.<br />
“It’s very disrespectful, especially<br />
when time is m<strong>on</strong>ey and so much<br />
is <strong>on</strong> the line,” says Jack Reznicki.<br />
“If you have to, do it <strong>on</strong> your lunch<br />
break or go to the bathroom.”<br />
Reznicki tells of a case in which a<br />
photographer was sued by his client<br />
because his assistant uploaded<br />
a behind-the-scenes image of the<br />
shoot to social media.<br />
14assisted a<br />
Follow up.<br />
If you’ve<br />
photographer and all went<br />
well, send a thank-you note<br />
saying you’d like to work<br />
for him or her again and<br />
expressing the hope that<br />
he or she will refer you<br />
to other photographers.<br />
15 Keep<br />
networking.<br />
Even if you end up<br />
working full-time for <strong>on</strong>e photographer,<br />
it’s important to establish<br />
new c<strong>on</strong>necti<strong>on</strong>s. Do this <strong>on</strong><br />
shoots, of course, but attend photo<br />
community events too. And be sure<br />
to make friends with your local<br />
photo equipment rental house.<br />
16<br />
Exploit social<br />
media.<br />
“It’s actually <strong>on</strong>e of<br />
the ways I’ve met a lot of wellknown<br />
photographers,” says<br />
Detroit-based Matthew LaVere,<br />
who is now making the transiti<strong>on</strong><br />
to full-time professi<strong>on</strong>al. “Down the<br />
line, they’ve called me up to see if<br />
I was available to assist. Instagram<br />
and Twitter have really helped me<br />
network.” Facebook offers similar<br />
opportunities, am<strong>on</strong>g them The<br />
Crew Group, an informal gathering<br />
of assistants. (Search for groups/<br />
TheCrewGroup.)<br />
17 “It is absolutely<br />
Start mixing in<br />
your own jobs.<br />
possible to assist and shoot at the<br />
same time,” says Gale. “I know<br />
some people believe you should<br />
make a clean break as so<strong>on</strong> as you<br />
think you’re ready, but I’m not sure<br />
that’s realistic. Gradually shooting<br />
more and assisting less is a<br />
perfectly fine way to do it. And if<br />
you start turning down shooting<br />
jobs because you’re already booked<br />
to assist, you know it’s time to quit<br />
assisting!”<br />
22 POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS APRIL <strong>2016</strong>
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Ask<br />
More<br />
Catherine Opie talks about what it means<br />
to make—and look at—portraits<br />
Photos by Catherine Opie; text by Meg Ryan<br />
24 POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS APRIL <strong>2016</strong>
AN ORDINARY kitchen in a ranchstyle<br />
home, light diffusing through<br />
a window and reflecting off the<br />
mirrors over scuff-marked, aging<br />
wallpaper. A note to self in red<br />
lipstick <strong>on</strong> a mirror. The c<strong>on</strong>tents<br />
of a closet, half a dozen or so items<br />
at a time: dresses, shoes, gowns,<br />
furs. The golden statuettes. Photos<br />
of friends and family <strong>on</strong> practically<br />
every surface. A pile of red AIDS<br />
ribb<strong>on</strong>s. A diam<strong>on</strong>d and emerald<br />
necklace dissolving into the sun.<br />
Zooming in <strong>on</strong> the objects of a<br />
life, from reflecti<strong>on</strong>s of an inimitably<br />
public image to the mundane,<br />
TWO PORTRAITS<br />
“Kate and Laura,”<br />
2012, from Recent<br />
Portraits, at left,<br />
and “Living Room<br />
West View,”<br />
2010–2011, from<br />
700 Nimes Road<br />
Portfolio (Elizabeth<br />
Taylor), above.<br />
Catherine Opie c<strong>on</strong>structed a<br />
portrait of Elizabeth Taylor without<br />
ever meeting the legendary actor<br />
in pers<strong>on</strong>. For the project that ultimately<br />
became 700 Nimes Road, the<br />
photographer was granted access to<br />
Taylor’s Bel-Air home in 2011 after<br />
their mutual accountant made the<br />
POPPHOTO.COM/CAMPUS POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS 25
c<strong>on</strong>necti<strong>on</strong>—and although Opie<br />
never intended to photograph the<br />
star, the project shifted gears <strong>on</strong><br />
March 23, 2011, when Taylor died of<br />
c<strong>on</strong>gestive heart failure. The resulting<br />
series (recently <strong>on</strong> exhibit at<br />
Lehmann Maupin’s Lower East Side<br />
gallery in New York and at the Los<br />
Angeles MOCA Pacific Design Center<br />
through May 8) gave Opie time<br />
to explore <strong>on</strong>e of many questi<strong>on</strong>s<br />
that have motivated her to make<br />
photographs over a celebrated<br />
career: What is a portrait, really?<br />
“It’s trying to extend the definiti<strong>on</strong><br />
of how we begin to define<br />
what a portrait is,” says Opie, the<br />
fine-art photographer whose rigorous<br />
explorati<strong>on</strong>s of portraiture and<br />
landscape have produced some of<br />
the most lauded images of the past<br />
25 years. “Somebody as ic<strong>on</strong>ic as<br />
Elizabeth Taylor—we know exactly<br />
what she looks like. So through the<br />
still lifes, my questi<strong>on</strong> was...does<br />
it give us even more informati<strong>on</strong><br />
about [her] than just having her<br />
sit for me for a portrait?”<br />
If Opie is about anything, she<br />
is about asking questi<strong>on</strong>s. From<br />
American Cities to Freeways to her<br />
most recent portraits, the photographer<br />
has been especially<br />
interested in asking questi<strong>on</strong>s<br />
about American culture and its<br />
politics. Her aim, she says, is to<br />
“really use my lifetime, my ideas,<br />
and questi<strong>on</strong>s that I put forth<br />
to the world…to try to make<br />
bodies of work in relati<strong>on</strong>ship<br />
to that.” Opie has set her prolific<br />
and technically exacting work<br />
<strong>on</strong> tableaux such as Tea Party<br />
rallies, President Barack Obama’s<br />
first inaugurati<strong>on</strong>, high school<br />
football, San Francisco’s b<strong>on</strong>dage<br />
community, and natural and<br />
human-made landscapes such<br />
CATHERINE OPIE/REGEN PROJECTS, LA AND LEHMANN MAUPIN, NY & HONG KONG (ALL)<br />
26 POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS APRIL <strong>2016</strong>
JEWELS<br />
“Emeralds,”<br />
2010–2011 (top<br />
left), from 700<br />
Nimes Road<br />
(Elizabeth Taylor).<br />
DRESS UP<br />
“Oliver in a Tutu,”<br />
2004, from In and<br />
Around Home.<br />
BALLER<br />
“Kaine,” 2007,<br />
from High School<br />
Football.<br />
as the Los Angeles freeways and<br />
Yosemite Nati<strong>on</strong>al Park. Each image<br />
peers into its subject and points to<br />
the c<strong>on</strong>text in which it sits.<br />
As William Egglest<strong>on</strong> did with<br />
his still lifes of Elvis Presley’s<br />
Graceland in 1984, at Taylor’s home<br />
Opie c<strong>on</strong>structed a similar mosaic<br />
and she takes care to point out<br />
that by fitting disparate images<br />
together, we get to know the pers<strong>on</strong>,<br />
not her stuff. “It’s the simple idea<br />
of what bearing witness does,”<br />
Opie says. “You bear witness to a<br />
home. You c<strong>on</strong>struct something in<br />
relati<strong>on</strong>ship.”<br />
For Opie, those relati<strong>on</strong>ships<br />
extend not <strong>on</strong>ly into Taylor’s own<br />
life and our cultural history in<br />
relati<strong>on</strong> to her, but into the whole<br />
history of portraiture. Start with<br />
her photo of Andy Warhol’s portrait<br />
of Taylor. “It’s about me the artist<br />
looking at Elizabeth, but also there’s<br />
a relati<strong>on</strong>ship to artists or history<br />
having a look at Elizabeth,” Opie<br />
says. “There’s a kind of layering...<br />
that begins to create or designate<br />
the noti<strong>on</strong> of portraiture for me.”<br />
Peel back more layers of relati<strong>on</strong>ship—between<br />
artist and<br />
subject, art and audience, artist<br />
and history—and the audience is<br />
pulled into a c<strong>on</strong>versati<strong>on</strong> with<br />
artists who came centuries ago. In a<br />
recent series of portraits (in another<br />
show at UCLA’s Hammer Museum<br />
through May 22), Opie’s friends<br />
and associates sit in poses remi-<br />
POPPHOTO.COM/CAMPUS POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS 27
niscent of Renaissance portraits:<br />
emerging from an inky background,<br />
their faces more illuminated than<br />
lit. Idexa kneels inside the frame<br />
gazing into the distance, allowing<br />
us to gaze back at her elaborately<br />
tattooed body. Author J<strong>on</strong>athan<br />
Franzen sits with his back to the<br />
camera, inviting us to read over his<br />
shoulder. The chiaroscuro-style portraits<br />
have a str<strong>on</strong>g relati<strong>on</strong>ship to<br />
painting, especially to the portraits<br />
of Old Masters such as Hans Holbein,<br />
Rembrandt, and Caravaggio.<br />
Opie looks at that relati<strong>on</strong>ship both<br />
c<strong>on</strong>ceptually and technically.<br />
“The questi<strong>on</strong> that I’m asking...<br />
now [involves] lighting and the way<br />
<strong>on</strong>e would think about Renaissance<br />
lighting,” Opie explains. “Are we<br />
able to hold the pers<strong>on</strong> l<strong>on</strong>ger, to<br />
think about portraiture vis-à-vis<br />
the fact that social media has taken<br />
over in relati<strong>on</strong>ship to the selfie?<br />
By using an older trope, do I have<br />
people actually standing before the<br />
work l<strong>on</strong>ger?”<br />
OVERPASSES<br />
Untitled #2, #1,<br />
#11, and #30,<br />
1994, from Opie’s<br />
series Freeways.<br />
INTIMATE<br />
POSESSIONS<br />
“Jewelry Box #6,”<br />
2010–2011, from<br />
700 Nimes Road<br />
(Elizabeth Taylor).<br />
IMAGE OF<br />
AN ARTIST<br />
“R<strong>on</strong>,” 2013, from<br />
Recent Portraits.<br />
28 POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS APRIL <strong>2016</strong>
To achieve that seductive effect,<br />
Opie uses ProPhoto lights with<br />
a fresnel over the strobe. (She<br />
shoots with a Hasselblad H2 and<br />
Phase One Q180 back.) “Then I’m<br />
able to c<strong>on</strong>trol the light <strong>on</strong> the<br />
subject,” she says. “N<strong>on</strong>e of the<br />
light manipulati<strong>on</strong> has happened<br />
post-producti<strong>on</strong>; it’s all d<strong>on</strong>e at<br />
the time of photographing. So I’m<br />
treating digital, for the most part,<br />
still as a platform, like I would treat<br />
a negative.”<br />
In the Portraits and Landscapes<br />
show at the Hammer and at<br />
Lehmann Maupin’s Chelsea gallery,<br />
Opie’s landscapes sit like space bars<br />
amid the portraits’ rich allegorical<br />
text. They prelude a six-story<br />
mural of Yosemite Falls that will<br />
be installed in May at the new L.A.<br />
federal courthouse. These images,<br />
too, invite pause. They stop the<br />
viewer as the brain tries to decipher<br />
the details. Then the gaze softens,<br />
as if staring l<strong>on</strong>g enough might<br />
make the image drift into focus.<br />
More questi<strong>on</strong>s. “How do we keep<br />
people looking at images?” Opie<br />
asks. “Why are images still important<br />
in this completely saturated<br />
image space, a culture that has been<br />
created through social media?”<br />
As UCLA faculty, Opie advises artists<br />
to follow their passi<strong>on</strong>, understand<br />
their work in c<strong>on</strong>text, and to<br />
ask questi<strong>on</strong>s. “That’s the cool thing<br />
about being an artist, right? You get<br />
to ask a lot of questi<strong>on</strong>s and try to<br />
figure them out by making work,”<br />
she says. “Be passi<strong>on</strong>ate, and where<br />
passi<strong>on</strong> al<strong>on</strong>e doesn’t answer everything,<br />
allow complexities to come<br />
in within your work [that] allow you<br />
to understand, really, the language<br />
that you’re working with.<br />
“And d<strong>on</strong>’t stop,” she c<strong>on</strong>tinues.<br />
“That’s the beauty of being able to<br />
express, of knowing <strong>on</strong>e’s medium<br />
and history of art in depth—to<br />
really explore the complexities of<br />
ideas of representati<strong>on</strong>. I never run<br />
out of questi<strong>on</strong>s, and that’s really<br />
a nice thing.”<br />
POPPHOTO.COM/CAMPUS POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS 29
TOOLSWhat It<br />
Roundup P.31<br />
Takes P.32<br />
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GREATER GLASS<br />
S<strong>on</strong>y shoots for sharpness with its new lens line<br />
FULL-FRAME FINERY<br />
S<strong>on</strong>y’s new line of glass debuts with<br />
three full-frame lenses. The traditi<strong>on</strong>al<br />
24–70mm f/2.8 workhorse and an<br />
85mm f/1.4 and 70–200mm f/2.8.<br />
FOR YEARS NOW, the best lenses<br />
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Now, with the introducti<strong>on</strong> of its<br />
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own set of high standards. The<br />
first two lenses in the series, the<br />
FE 24–70mm f/2.8 GM and the<br />
FE 85mm f/1.4 GM, are currently<br />
available for $2,198 and $1,798,<br />
respectively. The third lens in the<br />
series, the FE 70–200mm f/2.8<br />
GM OSS, doesn’t have an official<br />
price yet, but is expected to hit<br />
stores in May.<br />
These lenses throw image<br />
circles that cover full-frame<br />
sensors, but can also be used <strong>on</strong><br />
S<strong>on</strong>y’s APS-C bodies, capturing<br />
the equivalent field of view of<br />
36–105mm, 127.5, and 105–<br />
300mm lenses, respectively.<br />
We had a chance to use the<br />
first two lenses recently <strong>on</strong> a<br />
S<strong>on</strong>y-sp<strong>on</strong>sored trip to Miami<br />
Beach, and can say that the<br />
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Furthermore, new direct drive<br />
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glass, you can’t expect it to focus<br />
G MASTER<br />
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FOCAL LENGTHS:<br />
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INFO: s<strong>on</strong>y.com<br />
as quickly as the 24–70mm, or<br />
smaller lenses with lighter elements.<br />
Both lenses are well built<br />
and weather sealed to fend off<br />
moisture and dust; they should<br />
easily stand up to daily use.<br />
According to S<strong>on</strong>y, G Master<br />
lenses deliver a baseline resoluti<strong>on</strong><br />
of 50 line-pairs per millimeter—more<br />
than double the 20 lp/<br />
mm you might expect from film<br />
era lenses. Why so much res?<br />
S<strong>on</strong>y has endeavored to make<br />
glass that can deliver more when<br />
paired with cameras that boast<br />
extremely high pixel counts.<br />
From the images we made with<br />
the lenses mounted <strong>on</strong> S<strong>on</strong>y’s<br />
A7R II, we think that the company<br />
is <strong>on</strong> to something. Both the<br />
24–70mm and the 85mm served<br />
up some of the sharpest images<br />
we’ve ever seen with creamy outof-focus<br />
areas. —Philip Ryan<br />
30 POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS APRIL <strong>2016</strong>
TOOLS ROUNDUP<br />
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Olympus Pen-F $1,119 Olympus put a 20.3MP Live<br />
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video capture, now boosted to an oversampled 4K resoluti<strong>on</strong> at 30,<br />
25, and 24 fps. Still shooters will like its robust 425-point autofocus<br />
system and improved subject tracking, high-speed burst mode of 11<br />
fps, and expanded ISO up to 51,200. s<strong>on</strong>y.com<br />
Fujifilm X-Pro2 $1,699 A score for mirrorless camera<br />
fans: its re-engineered hybrid viewfinder blends optical and digital<br />
readouts to enhance manual focus and provide real-time camera<br />
data with opti<strong>on</strong>s for a bright-line rangefinder view and digital splitscreen<br />
focusing. The new 24.3MP APS-C-sized X-Trans sensor is<br />
sensitive up to 51,200 for low-light shooting. fujifilm.com<br />
Pentax K-1 $1,800 This DSLR brings the solid Pentax<br />
design to the realm of full-frame digital cameras. Its 36.4MP CMOS<br />
sensor is incorporated into a five-axis stabilizer for shake reducti<strong>on</strong><br />
and use in creative modes like its Astro Tracer for stellar imaging. A<br />
pentaprism viewfinder and novel articulated LCD screen are added<br />
perks. us.ricoh-imaging.com<br />
Nik<strong>on</strong> D500 $1,997 Nik<strong>on</strong>’s new top APS-C-format (DX)<br />
DSLR body has a rugged magnesium-alloy frame and integrates a<br />
20.9MP sensor with impressive ISO sensitivity—expandable to cover<br />
ISO 50 to 1,640,000—and the ability to churn out 4K video at up to<br />
30 fps or Full HD at up to 60 fps. Nik<strong>on</strong> added 153 AF points, 99 of<br />
which are cross-type, and 10 fps shooting. nik<strong>on</strong>usa.com<br />
Can<strong>on</strong> EOS-1D X Mark II $5,999 This DSLR<br />
sports a 20.2MP full-frame sensor and two DIGIC 6+ image<br />
processors. Its UDMA7-compatible CompactFlash slot and CFast 2.0<br />
slot lets you capture large, Fine JPEGs (up to 73 RAW images <strong>on</strong> a<br />
UDMA7 CF card, or 170 RAW shots <strong>on</strong> a CFast2.0 card). It records<br />
4K video at up to 60 fps as Moti<strong>on</strong> JPEG files and offers ALL-I or IPB<br />
compressi<strong>on</strong> when recording Full HD at up to 120 fps. The expanded<br />
sensitivity range spans ISO 50 to 409,600. usa.can<strong>on</strong>.com<br />
POPPHOTO.COM/CAMPUS POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS 31
TOOLS WHAT IT TAKES SHOE-MOUNT FLASH<br />
HOT<br />
SHOT<br />
To freeze acti<strong>on</strong>,<br />
try using an<br />
accessory flash<br />
OUR WEB EDITOR Stan Horaczek<br />
took <strong>on</strong> a cool assignment a few<br />
years back: An aspiring Hollywood<br />
professi<strong>on</strong>al asked him to help<br />
build a portfolio of acti<strong>on</strong> photos<br />
that she hoped would get her stunt<br />
work. To create the acti<strong>on</strong>—here<br />
taken am<strong>on</strong>g state office buildings<br />
in Albany, New York—she planted<br />
her foot <strong>on</strong> the edge of a large public<br />
sculpture and acrobatically pushed<br />
herself off it into a flip. For the shot<br />
to work, Horaczek had to catch her<br />
at exactly the right moment and<br />
keep her as sharp as possible. His<br />
perfect timing assured the former<br />
and his flash the latter.<br />
Why Use It<br />
Even though the scene had plenty<br />
of natural light, Horaczek needed<br />
the pop of his shoe-mount flash. Its<br />
additi<strong>on</strong>al output illuminated detail<br />
in his subject’s black dress: You can<br />
see the folds, and even a little of<br />
the texture, in its dark fabric. They<br />
wouldn’t have recorded if Horaczek<br />
relied <strong>on</strong> available light.<br />
But that’s not the main reas<strong>on</strong> he<br />
added the flash. “Hotshoe flashes<br />
typically have pretty fast flash<br />
durati<strong>on</strong>s, and this <strong>on</strong>e did a good<br />
job freezing her,” says Horaczek. His<br />
Can<strong>on</strong> 580EX Speedlite's durati<strong>on</strong><br />
of approximately 1/2000 sec (at full<br />
power), was much shorter than his<br />
sluggish—by acti<strong>on</strong> standards—<br />
1/160 sec shutter speed. The flash<br />
assured the sharpness he needed,<br />
and because it was held off-camera<br />
and up high, it cast that cool<br />
shadow behind his subject.<br />
How to Use It<br />
To get the shortest flash durati<strong>on</strong>s,<br />
switch your unit to manual mode,<br />
and set the lowest power output (i.e.<br />
1/32 or 1/64 power). For this subject,<br />
however, full-power delivered<br />
sharpness enough. —Peter Kol<strong>on</strong>ia<br />
Horaczek used a<br />
Can<strong>on</strong> EOS 5D Mark<br />
III and Can<strong>on</strong> EF<br />
24–105mm f/4L IS<br />
USM lens. Exposure<br />
1/160 sec at f/8,<br />
ISO 400. The 580 EX<br />
Speed lite flash was<br />
set to full power.<br />
STAN HORACZEK (PORTRAIT)<br />
32 POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS APRIL <strong>2016</strong>
Alpha Universe Magazine<br />
A World of <str<strong>on</strong>g>Photography</str<strong>on</strong>g> Inspirati<strong>on</strong>.<br />
— In-depth features across all areas of photography<br />
— Learn from Acclaimed S<strong>on</strong>y Artisans such as Brian Smith, Me Ra Koh, Ira Block and more<br />
— Learn more about Award-winning S<strong>on</strong>y Cameras<br />
Available for download in the iTunes ® and Google Play stores and with select issues of <str<strong>on</strong>g>Popular</str<strong>on</strong>g> <str<strong>on</strong>g>Photography</str<strong>on</strong>g>.<br />
AlphaUniverse.com<br />
@S<strong>on</strong>yAlpha<br />
©<strong>2016</strong> S<strong>on</strong>y Electr<strong>on</strong>ics Inc. S<strong>on</strong>y and the S<strong>on</strong>y logo are trademarks of S<strong>on</strong>y Corporati<strong>on</strong>. All rights reserved. S<strong>on</strong>y and the S<strong>on</strong>y logo<br />
are trademarks of S<strong>on</strong>y. All other trademarks are trademarks of their respective owners. iTunes is a trademark of Apple Inc., registered in the<br />
U.S. and other countries. Google Play is a trademark of Google Inc.<br />
POPPHOTO.COM/CAMPUS POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS 33
SHOOT THIS ROOFLINES<br />
AN ARCHITECTURAL photographer<br />
based in Chicago, Slobodan Blagojevic<br />
visited New York in 2013 and<br />
toured the Museum of Modern Art.<br />
Looking out from a top floor, Blagojevic<br />
was struck by the elements of<br />
French, Palladian, neoclassical, and<br />
modernist styles in sight.<br />
Rooftops offer refreshingly atypical<br />
views of buildings compared to<br />
what we experience from the street.<br />
They’re also home to distinctive<br />
objects. Blagojevic, for example,<br />
enjoys shooting Manhattan’s water<br />
TOP OF THE WORLD<br />
Get up high to change your perspective<br />
towers. L<strong>on</strong>d<strong>on</strong> has its chimneys<br />
and Paris its distinctively shaped<br />
mansard rooflines—most places can<br />
look distinctive from up high.<br />
If you want to try for yourself,<br />
Blagojevic advises to first make sure<br />
your camera is level. This keeps a<br />
scene’s vertical lines distorti<strong>on</strong>-free<br />
and parallel to the frame edges. Try<br />
not to shoot your subject through a<br />
window: it can add unwanted reflecti<strong>on</strong>s,<br />
blurriness, and color shifts,<br />
especially if the glass is thick, coated,<br />
or tinted.<br />
—Peter Kol<strong>on</strong>ia<br />
A DIFFERENT<br />
VIEW<br />
Blagojevic used a<br />
Can<strong>on</strong> EOS 60D<br />
and EF 17–55mm<br />
f/2.8 IS USM lens,<br />
exposing for 1/80<br />
sec at f/4, ISO<br />
400.<br />
YOUR<br />
ASSIGNMENT<br />
Photograph rooftops or a roofline<br />
and try to capture the character<br />
or pers<strong>on</strong>ality of the architecture,<br />
the city, or the atmosphere. Look<br />
for eye-catching angles, lighting,<br />
and design. Share to Instagram<br />
or Facebook with the hashtag<br />
#AssignmentPopPhoto for the<br />
chance to be featured <strong>on</strong> www.<br />
PopPhoto.com/campus.<br />
SLOBODAN BLAGOJEVIC<br />
34 POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS APRIL <strong>2016</strong>
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36 POPULAR PHOTOGRAPHY ON CAMPUS APRIL <strong>2016</strong><br />
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