Caribbean Compass Yachting Magazine - August 2017

More documents

Recommendations

Info

FINDING HAPPINESS IN HAVANA by Ralph Trout Top: A street vendor offers fresh, deep-fried churros Right: In Old Havana, you’ll find musicians everywhere Below: The double-decker bus is a fun way to get from Marina Hemingway to the city ALL ASHORE… AUGUST 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 Sailing to Cuba realized two dreams. Captain Jon had finally made it to the Caribbean on his yacht, Crosswinds. His voyage with the Hunter sloop had begun in Lake Erie. Traveling across Lake Ontario, down the Oswego Canal, the Erie Canal, the Hudson River and the Atlantic Coast to the Intracoastal Waterway, and through the Florida Keys made his dream a reality. And for me, after 35 years in the Caribbean, finally sailing to Cuba meant I had visited every island going up the chain north from Venezuela. Havana at present has a dreamlike quality, taking you back to less stressful times. Although the island nation played a significant part in one of the most critical periods of the Cold War, the feeling now is more reminiscent of the safer, carefree times of the Fifties. The classic cars, iconic hotels, music, and bars resonate with optimism. Tourism never left Cuba, only the Americans are recently returning; so let the good times roll. I never saw a sad face. Even the few beggars grinned. The happy mood of Havana, especially the old city, La Habana Vieja, is infectious and exhausting. There is so much to see and do. As with any tourist destination, money doesn’t have to be the barometer of pleasure. There are plenty of sights, museums, and art galleries that offer free or low-budget thrills. Read a bit of Cuba’s long history before you go, so faces and places will be recognizable. Frommer’s Guide and Mr. Google educated our travels. Get on the Bus Getting to Havana from Marina Hemingway is the first hurdle. To view the immenseness of this Caribbean city, take the bus. —Continued on next page
— Continued from previous page During your stay you must take at least one classic car ride, but not for the first trip. A classic 1950s Chevy or Ford will speed you into the city’s heart and the $20 to $25 fare split by four passengers is economical. The driver’s purpose will be to get you there as quickly as possible and he probably won’t speak enough English to give a proper tour. course, bring some bottled water and your toilet tissue. The water in Havana didn’t bother us, but it is convenient to carry some. On Central Park’s west side are two hotels with shaded sidewalk tables, excellent for watching the busy street. The Transtour bus will park directly across from the Hotel Inglaterra, which usually has live music in the afternoon. The Hotel Telegrafo has an excellent, reasonable menu and drinks. No one hurries you at either establishment. More important, the Telegrafo has the best restrooms of any part of the city. They are works of art and well worth using after a few libations. Most of the hotels surrounding the park will exchange money. There are also a few cambios and banks nearby. Opening and closing hours vary. A Walking Tour An easy walking tour of part of Old Havana can begin at Central Park. It would take a week or more to see everything of interest, so take it easy. Exploring the old city is not a mission, but a meandering. On the east side of the park between two newly renovated buildings, soon to be more hotels, is a passage that leads to the beginning Save some money. Isn’t that the cruiser’s creed? The marina hotel’s shuttle bus (get a ticket in the lobby of Hotel Acuario) will drop you at Cecilia, the farthest point of its route. The first bus trip was at 10 in the morning. There you can use the ticket you got at the marina to transfer to a double-decker bus (watch out for lowhanging branches) to Parque Central in Old Havana, or, to get a wider glimpse of the expansive city of two million people, take the T-1 red-and-blue, Transtour/ HabanaBusTour. It costs 10 CUCs for an all-day ticket. This means you can get off and, when you are ready, hail the next one with your ticket. The tour from Cecilia winds through much of the city. The bus crosses Vedado — the university-business district — to Revolutionary Plaza where you will see the fantastic memorial to Jose Martí, the father of the Cuban revolutionary spirit. Heroes Che Guevara and Camilo Cienfuegos (a Fidel look-alike) adorn the fronts of the National Police and Army buildings. (Also not to be missed is the Museum of the Revolution.) Along the route are the sprawling central cemetery and the five-mile Malecón bordering the sea with photogenic Fort El Morro in the distance. You’ll pass the drab American Embassy, the Mafia’s drabber Riveria Hotel, and the beautiful 1930-vintage Hotel Nacional. The final turn, almost near the mouth of the harbor on to Prado Avenue will drop off at Parque Central (Central Park), the hub of Habana Vieja. Central Park is surrounded by every mode of tourist transport available. Horsedrawn carriages vie with classic cars for $50 tours. On the north side are egg-shaped yellow “coco-taxis” powered by motorcycle engines and suitable for up to three passengers. Ten CUCs gets you a one-way drop. Parked nearby are the three-wheeler bicycle/rickshaws called “bici-taxis”. Everything is negotiable and the streets are spotless and odorless. The carriage horses wear a unique diaper worth seeing. No matter what transport you choose, expect to spend at least a few hours walking. Wear comfortable clothes and a hat, as it is hot, and shoes that like your feet. Of On the way to the historic quarter of Havana, with its Spanish colonial buildings, you’ll pass contrasting architectural examples such as the Soviet-designed Russian Embassy (left) and the 1950s modernist US Embassy of Obispo Street. This is one of the main arteries of Old Havana. Follow it to the harbor and the world is transformed into incredible fun with the Cuba tourist spirit. At the park side of Obispo is a not-to-be-missed bar; see it on your way either to or from the park, or probably both. Floridita is famous as the supposed birthplace of the daiquiri. It seems that Ernest Hemingway inspired the “Papa” version of the drink by requiring double rum and no sugar. The current version is memorialized in Floridita with a bronze statue of Ernest sitting casually at a bar almost constantly packed with tourists. The crowd and the continuous live music are part of the ambiance. Patience and luck help you get a table. Dance when you can; no one cares about your style. Follow Obispo and you’ll discover various shops: watch and phone repair; phone, SIM, and internet card sales; post cards with stamps; myriad restaurants, bars, and wandering music bands, and one of the government tourist centers. One restaurant we liked was upstairs, where the food was even better than the excellent view of the street and the small park opposite. Obispo has plenty of very polite hawkers for its bars and restaurants. Polite is the key word. No one hassles you. Music and great aromas of food seep from everywhere and a rum cocktail always beckons. Deep-fried churros are thirst-makers and are very inexpensive. My initial, pre-planned Cuba mission had stalled, as no deep-sea fishing was available at the marina and baseball season was over. A new quest began: to find the best mojito. After an extensive, almost crippling survey, the swank Iberostar Hotel on Central Park was runner-up, as they added a few drops of Angostura Bitters. After several tedious samplings, the Best Creation and Mojito Ambiance prize was awarded to the lobby bar at the Hotel Ambos Mundos on Obispo. Again on the so-called “Hemingway trail” (he had a room there once), there was no competition. —Continued on next page AUGUST 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 www.regisguillemot.com ill +596 596 74 78 59
Page 1 and 2: C A R I B B E A N On-line C MPASS A
Page 3 and 4: INGA BEITZ The Caribbean’s Monthl
Page 5 and 6: — Continued from previous page Ei
Page 7 and 8: AUGUST 2017 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE
Page 9 and 10: — Continued from previous page Ne
Page 11 and 12: Voices from Bonaire’s Seafaring P
Page 13 and 14: — Continued from previous page Se
Page 15 and 16: — Continued from previous page Th
Page 17: Hugo Thélier Wins Traditional Roun
Page 21 and 22: Beyond Havana: Organic Farms, Eco-T
Page 23 and 24: — Continued from previous page As
Page 25 and 26: ‘In Sailing You Always Grow and G
Page 27 and 28: — Continued from previous page In
Page 29 and 30: E very morning my husband, Peter, a
Page 31 and 32: New Cream of the CUBA GUIDE Crop Wa
Page 33 and 34: A uthor and screenwriter John Niven
Page 35 and 36: — Continued from previous page Do
Page 37 and 38: — Continued from previous page Ba
Page 39 and 40: TAKE PART IN THE CARIBBEAN COMPASS
Page 41 and 42: Caribbean Compass Market Place
Page 43 and 44: WHAT’S ON MY MIND A TALE OF TWO S
Page 45 and 46: CALENDAR AUGUST 1 Public holiday in
Page 47 and 48: √ √ Reliable Durable Hard-worki

Caribbean Compass Yachting Magazine - August 2017

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

Delete template?

Save as template?