Rowan Autumn 2017 newsletter
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<strong>Autumn</strong> Newsletter<br />
AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />
1
Hello and welcome to our new look quarterly <strong>newsletter</strong>!<br />
As we are busily getting to grips with the new <strong>Autumn</strong> Winter<br />
collections, we are also excited to have recently launched a brand<br />
new look to our website, www.knitrowan.com. It certainly has<br />
been a busy few weeks and months here in Yorkshire.<br />
This issue, we bring you all the details of new yarns and designs,<br />
including Knitting & Crochet Magazine 62 – we’d love to hear<br />
your thoughts of the new edition and which of the designs you<br />
are tempted by! We also catch up with enthusiast Andrea from<br />
Fruity Knitting about her and her husband’s fabulous podcasts,<br />
take a look at emerging fashion trends this autumn and hear<br />
from two promising Royal College of Art students, who are<br />
creating works of art using <strong>Rowan</strong> yarn.<br />
This season, we are excited to release a brand new tweed yarn,<br />
spun in Yorkshire, the heartland of <strong>Rowan</strong>. Read on to find out<br />
about the process of how the yarn is manufactured in Albert<br />
Mills, a historic building just a few miles away from the <strong>Rowan</strong><br />
design office in Huddersfield.<br />
We are also focusing on the fairisle technique in this issue<br />
and we bring you a helpful how-to article, including step-bystep<br />
tips and images. Finally, we hear from the talented Jane<br />
Crowfoot about a brilliant charity auction she is offering at the<br />
moment for a very special and rare prize.<br />
As always, we hope you enjoy your new issue. We’d love to hear<br />
what you think of the new website and collections, why not<br />
visit our <strong>Rowan</strong> Yarns Facebook page to tell us your thoughts!<br />
The <strong>Rowan</strong> team<br />
Cover: Sweeting<br />
by Lisa Richardson<br />
Knitted in Kid Classic<br />
Knitting & Crochet Magazine 62<br />
<strong>Rowan</strong> Yarns<br />
17F Brooke’s Mill, Armitage Bridge,<br />
Huddersfield,<br />
West Yorkshire, HD4 7NR<br />
CONTACT<br />
All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or<br />
any part of all material, including illustrations<br />
and designs, in this publication/pattern is<br />
strictly forbidden and is sold on the condition<br />
that it is used for non commercial purposes.<br />
No part may be reproduced, stored in a<br />
retrieval system, or transmitted in any form<br />
or by any means electronic, electrostatic,<br />
magnetic tape, mechanical, photocopying,<br />
recording or otherwise without prior<br />
permission of the copyright owners having<br />
been given in writing. Yarn quantities<br />
are approximate and are based on average<br />
requirements. Images and shades are for<br />
guidance only as colours may not display<br />
accurately on screen or in printed format.<br />
Contact your local stockist to view a fringed<br />
(not digital reproduction) yarn shade card.<br />
© Copyright MEZ Crafts UK Ltd., <strong>2017</strong>.<br />
MEZ Crafts UK Ltd., 17F, Brooke’s Mill,<br />
Armitage Bridge, Huddersfield, HD4 7NR,<br />
Web: www.knitrowan.com<br />
2 ROWAN
CONTRIBUTORS<br />
………………………<br />
Katie Calvert’s background is<br />
in fashion and textiles, with<br />
previous experience in trend<br />
forecasting, public relations and<br />
events before joining the closeknit<br />
<strong>Rowan</strong> team as a freelancer<br />
in September 2015. Although<br />
her knitting skills leave much to<br />
be desired, she loves fashion and<br />
writing for <strong>Rowan</strong> means that<br />
she is able to pass that passion<br />
onto you!<br />
Andrea and Andrew Doig are<br />
Australians who moved to<br />
Germany in 1999. Andrea has<br />
been knitting since she was 6<br />
years old and comes from a<br />
very crafty family. Andrew is a<br />
beginner knitter and, coming<br />
from a family of academics, had<br />
no exposure to crafting before<br />
Andrea sat him on the couch<br />
with a ball of wool and a pair of<br />
needles.<br />
Jane Crowfoot studied textile<br />
design at Winchester School<br />
of Art in the UK, where she<br />
specialized in knitting. Following<br />
graduation, she worked as a<br />
freelance textile designer and<br />
worked as a Design Consultant<br />
for <strong>Rowan</strong> Yarns. She tutors many<br />
knitting and crochet workshops<br />
across the UK, offering handson<br />
advice to knitters through<br />
teaching and demonstrations.<br />
Katherine Lymer is a knitting<br />
tutor, designer and writer based<br />
in the inspirational countryside<br />
of the Scottish Borders. She<br />
enjoys travelling throughout the<br />
UK, giving workshops on all<br />
aspects of knitting and teaching<br />
people of all ages and skill levels.<br />
Find Woolly<br />
Ewe!<br />
Somewhere in this<br />
<strong>newsletter</strong>, a shy ewe is<br />
hiding! Find her and click to<br />
reveal an exclusive surprise.<br />
Good luck.<br />
Follow us on Social Media…<br />
AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />
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48<br />
6<br />
30<br />
8<br />
38<br />
26 46<br />
44<br />
4 ROWAN
AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />
………………………<br />
Contents<br />
40<br />
24<br />
22<br />
Exclusive Free Pattern<br />
- Skipness 6<br />
New Season<br />
- <strong>Autumn</strong> Winter ‘17 8<br />
Retailer Focus<br />
- Uncommon Threads 22<br />
August Members Pattern<br />
- Carlton 24<br />
September & October Members<br />
Patterns Preview 25<br />
Behind the Scenes<br />
- Brierley Brothers Ltd. 26<br />
Trends<br />
- <strong>Autumn</strong> Winter ‘17 30<br />
Retailer Focus<br />
- Black Sheep Wools 38<br />
Royal College of Arts Students Interview 40<br />
Crochet Club Giveaway<br />
- Knit for Peace 44<br />
Lisa Richardson Crochet Along 46<br />
Tips & Techniques<br />
- How to Fairisle Knit 48<br />
This Season We Love<br />
- Fruity Knitting 54<br />
Events 57<br />
AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />
5
FREE PATTERN<br />
………………………<br />
Skipness<br />
By Martin Storey<br />
Knitted in Cashmere Tweed<br />
DOWNLOAD<br />
6 ROWAN
AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />
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8 ROWAN
NEW SEASON<br />
………………………<br />
<strong>Autumn</strong> Winter ‘17<br />
Dusky Scarf<br />
by Martin Storey<br />
Knitted in Felted Tweed & Kidsilk Haze<br />
AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />
9
NEW SEASON<br />
………………………<br />
Knitting<br />
& Crochet<br />
Magazine 62<br />
For the main collection for<br />
<strong>Autumn</strong> Winter, two themes are<br />
perfectly highlighted throughout<br />
two iconic design stories.<br />
Kinship<br />
A story inspired by <strong>Rowan</strong>’s<br />
original roots, housed in a<br />
beautiful old woollen mill and<br />
the surrounding landscape of<br />
the stunning Yorkshire Dales.<br />
Featuring 22 iconic designs for<br />
women, the collection showcases<br />
stunning cabling, colourwork<br />
and texture, worked in yarn<br />
favourites such as Kid Classic,<br />
Felted Tweed and Big Wool.<br />
Pieces range from cosy sweaters,<br />
to textured scarves and an<br />
intricate fairisle cardigan.<br />
Top left:<br />
Cowlam<br />
by Lisa Richardson<br />
Knitted in Hemp Tweed<br />
Top right:<br />
Bradshaw<br />
by Martin Storey<br />
Knitted in Kid Classic<br />
Opposite:<br />
Greenwood<br />
by Galina Carroll<br />
Knitted in Felted Tweed<br />
Far page:<br />
Gransmoor<br />
by Lisa Richardson<br />
Knitted in Hemp Tweed<br />
10 ROWAN
AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />
11
NEW SEASON<br />
………………………<br />
Knitting<br />
& Crochet<br />
Magazine 62<br />
Dawn Till Dusk<br />
Dawn Till Dusk is inspired by<br />
knitwear that can take you from<br />
the office to evening drinks or<br />
slouchy layer pieces that can be<br />
worn for an afternoon stroll or<br />
as a cover-up over evening wear.<br />
Pieces are stylish, yet versatile<br />
and range from a neat cabled<br />
sweater, to an elegant beaded<br />
cardigan and a pretty lace detail<br />
wrap scarf.<br />
VIEW<br />
COLLECTION<br />
Top:<br />
Evening<br />
by Martin Storey<br />
Knitted in Kid Classic<br />
Opposite:<br />
Mellow<br />
by Sarah Hatton<br />
Knitted in Kid Classic<br />
Far page:<br />
Hutton Scarf & Twilight<br />
by Lisa Richardson<br />
Twilight knitted in Kidsilk Haze & Fine<br />
Lace<br />
Hutton Scarf crocheted in Felted Tweed<br />
& Kidsilk Haze<br />
12 ROWAN
AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />
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NEW SEASON<br />
………………………<br />
Journeyman<br />
A collection of truly modern<br />
classic knits, Journeyman<br />
showcases the best qualities of<br />
the popular Hemp Tweed yarn,<br />
and features Martin Storey’s<br />
signature nautical cables, slip<br />
stitch checks and simple rib and<br />
stocking stitch designs. Twelve<br />
relaxed pieces range from stylish<br />
polo neck jumpers, to elegant<br />
cabled sweaters and a ribbed<br />
beanie hat.<br />
VIEW<br />
COLLECTION<br />
Top left:<br />
Hudson Scarf<br />
by Martin Storey<br />
Knitted in Felted Tweed<br />
Top right:<br />
Dean<br />
by Martin Storey<br />
Knitted in Felted Tweed<br />
Opposite:<br />
Brando<br />
by Martin Storey<br />
Knitted in Hemp Tweed<br />
14 ROWAN
NEW SEASON<br />
………………………<br />
Brushed<br />
Fleece Knits<br />
This is a clean collection of easyto-knit,<br />
signature cables and<br />
simple stocking stitch and texture.<br />
Designed by Quail Studio, pieces<br />
range from cosy sweaters, to<br />
long-length cardigans and a<br />
comfy snood and bobbly hat set,<br />
all worked in the beautifully soft<br />
Brushed Fleece yarn.<br />
VIEW<br />
COLLECTION<br />
Harper<br />
by Quail Studio<br />
Knitted in Brushed Fleece<br />
AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />
15
NEW SEASON<br />
………………………<br />
Cashmere<br />
Tweed<br />
Inspired by the styles and<br />
patterning of Scandinavian and<br />
Icelandic knits, this collection of<br />
seven modern knits is worked<br />
in the brand new Cashmere<br />
Tweed yarn. Showcasing eyecatching<br />
colourwork and simple,<br />
yet elegant shapes, this collection<br />
features designs from cosy winter<br />
accessories to versatile sweaters<br />
and a short-sleeved tunic.<br />
VIEW<br />
COLLECTION<br />
Top:<br />
Lang<br />
by Martin Storey<br />
Knitted in Cashmere Tweed<br />
Opposite:<br />
Carron<br />
by Martin Storey<br />
Knitted in Cashmere Tweed<br />
16 ROWAN
NEW SEASON<br />
………………………<br />
Timeless<br />
Cocoon<br />
Designed by the <strong>Rowan</strong><br />
favourites, this is a truly versatile<br />
collection of six staple wardrobe<br />
pieces such as warming winter<br />
sweaters and a beautiful cabled<br />
wrap, all worked in the super soft<br />
Cocoon yarn.<br />
VIEW<br />
COLLECTION<br />
Top left:<br />
Nevada Scarf<br />
by Sarah Hatton<br />
Knitted in Cocoon<br />
Top right:<br />
Nieve Sweater<br />
by Sarah Hatton<br />
Knitted in Cocoon<br />
Opposite:<br />
Snowy Cardigan<br />
by Lisa Richardson<br />
Knitted in Cocoon<br />
AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />
17
NEW SEASON<br />
………………………<br />
Timeless<br />
DK<br />
Worked in the new Alpaca Soft<br />
DK yarn, this brochure showcases<br />
simple and clean silhouettes to<br />
suit any wardrobe. Designs range<br />
from simple cardigans to a roll<br />
neck sweater and a cabled jacket.<br />
VIEW<br />
COLLECTION<br />
Top:<br />
Nordea<br />
by Martin Storey<br />
Knitted in Alpaca Soft DK<br />
Opposite:<br />
Bibbi<br />
by Martin Storey<br />
Knitted in Alpaca Soft DK<br />
Opposite right:<br />
Stockholm<br />
by Martin Storey<br />
Knitted in Alpaca Soft DK<br />
18 ROWAN
NEW SEASON<br />
………………………<br />
Timeless<br />
Worsted<br />
Worked in the classic Pure Wool<br />
Superwash Worsted yarn, this<br />
collection of seven designs for<br />
women features easy-to-wear<br />
and versatile pieces ranging from<br />
a colour block sweater to a stylish<br />
cabled cardigan and a statement<br />
design using chequers and letters.<br />
VIEW<br />
COLLECTION<br />
Top left:<br />
Malmo<br />
by Martin Storey<br />
Knitted in Pure Wool Superwash<br />
Worsted<br />
Top right:<br />
Holm Cowl<br />
by Martin Storey<br />
Knitted in Pure Wool Superwash<br />
Worsted<br />
Opposite:<br />
<strong>Rowan</strong> Yarns Cardigan<br />
by Martin Storey<br />
Knitted in Pure Wool Superwash<br />
Worsted<br />
AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />
19
NEW SEASON<br />
………………………<br />
Valley<br />
Tweed<br />
This stunning collection of seven<br />
designs for women was designed<br />
using the brand new Valley Tweed<br />
yarn, sourced and spun near the<br />
home of <strong>Rowan</strong> in Huddersfield,<br />
Yorkshire. Rustic and timeless,<br />
pieces range from a striped wrap<br />
to a fairisle cropped jacket and a<br />
simple v-neck sweater.<br />
VIEW<br />
COLLECTION<br />
Holme<br />
by Lisa Richardson<br />
Knitted in Valley Tweed<br />
Opposite top:<br />
Bradfield Scarf<br />
by Lisa Richardson<br />
Knitted in Valley Tweed<br />
Opposite bottom:<br />
Colne<br />
by Lisa Richardson<br />
Knitted in Valley Tweed<br />
20 ROWAN
AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />
21
22 ROWAN
RETAILER<br />
FOCUS<br />
………………………<br />
Uncommon<br />
Threads<br />
USA<br />
Settled in the centre of Los Altos,<br />
California, a small city in the Silicon<br />
Valley region, surrounded by larger cities<br />
who boast businesses like Apple, Facebook<br />
and Google, Uncommon Threads is a yarn<br />
store whose roots are wider and deeper than<br />
its high-tech neighbours.<br />
Founded in the 1980s as a handweaving studio,<br />
Uncommon Threads added yarn and needlepoint<br />
over the following 30+ years to mirror their<br />
customers’ needs. The shop has consistently been a<br />
destination for yarn crafters in the community and<br />
beyond through mail order and consumer travel.<br />
Current owner Stephanie Hein purchased the store<br />
in 2009. Formerly a project manager for a webdesign<br />
firm, Stephanie was a long-time customer<br />
whose children had just started school and who was<br />
looking to fit a career that focused on creativity into<br />
her personal and professional life. The previous<br />
owner, Louise Spangler, was looking to retire and<br />
with an experienced staff, a supportive customer<br />
base and a wonderful location, the time was right<br />
for Stephanie to make her career change.<br />
Today, Uncommon Threads focuses on the current<br />
trends in knitting and crochet. Stephanie uses her<br />
sales floor wisely with fashionable sweater and<br />
accessory displays rotated throughout the seasons.<br />
This way, it is always the right time for customers<br />
to start a new project!<br />
The store’s class schedule highlights several skillbuilding<br />
classes to educate consumers about how<br />
to make their own sweaters. From beginning the<br />
sweater, to intermediate projects, including crochet,<br />
as well as following socks, KAL and CALs, and<br />
one-time small projects – the store is always busy<br />
with activity. Stephanie is also pleased to offer Amy<br />
Herzog’s Custom Fit pattern design system in her<br />
store, which allows customers to adjust patterns to<br />
their own measurements. Best of all, Uncommon<br />
Threads now offers weaving classes – truly returning<br />
to the roots of their store.<br />
Uncommon Threads was one of the first stores in<br />
North America to offer <strong>Rowan</strong> Yarns, appearing<br />
as a stockist in every <strong>Rowan</strong> Magazine since<br />
issue Number Four, when the store lists began.<br />
Stephanie continues to keep <strong>Rowan</strong> in the forefront<br />
at Uncommon Threads, noting the history of<br />
customer trust in the brand and the high level of<br />
anticipation each season for the new magazines.<br />
Her customers appreciate the timeless, yet current<br />
look of the designs, so that the knitter can feel good<br />
about wearing the garment for several years to<br />
come. Stephanie appreciates the wide coverage of<br />
design themes – women, men, children, accessories<br />
and home; as well as the current and upcoming<br />
designers such as Sarah Hatton, Martin Storey and<br />
Lisa Richardson, who set the forward trends for the<br />
yarn line.<br />
MORE INFO<br />
AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />
23
AUGUST’S<br />
MEMBERS PATTERN<br />
………………………<br />
Carlton<br />
By Marie Wallin<br />
Knitted in Felted Tweed Aran<br />
DOWNLOAD<br />
24 ROWAN
Upcoming in<br />
September &<br />
October<br />
SEPTEMBER’S<br />
MEMBERS PATTERN<br />
………………………<br />
Dawn<br />
By Martin Storey<br />
Knitted in Kid Classic<br />
OCTOBER’S<br />
MEMBERS PATTERN<br />
………………………<br />
Diffuse<br />
By Galina Carroll<br />
Knitted in Kidsilk Haze & Fine Lace<br />
AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />
25
BEHIND THE<br />
SCENES<br />
………………………<br />
Brierley Brothers<br />
By Sarah Brook<br />
Nestled just off the main<br />
ring road which snakes<br />
around the Yorkshire town<br />
of Huddersfield, Albert Mills<br />
is quite a formidable sight.<br />
Positioned alongside the fastflowing<br />
waters of the river<br />
Colne, the five storey stone<br />
mill sits proudly and boasts a<br />
rich heritage.<br />
Today, the building is home to<br />
Brierley Bros. Ltd, trading as<br />
Gardiner Yarns, a trusted spinner<br />
and distributor of wools from<br />
all over the world. The premises<br />
were built originally as a ‘woollen<br />
manufactory’ in 1863 and later the<br />
company incorporated in 1896<br />
in Huddersfield, West Yorkshire,<br />
a town renown for supply of the<br />
best quality textiles to the world.<br />
The highly successful spinning<br />
company Brierley Bros. Ltd is<br />
now one of the leading spinners<br />
of specialist woollen spun yarns<br />
in the United Kingdom. The<br />
company is proud to spin using<br />
only the finest wools and fibres<br />
and we are pleased to have<br />
sourced our recently-introduced<br />
Valley Tweed from here, just a<br />
few miles down the road from<br />
the <strong>Rowan</strong> design office.<br />
The process of creating the yarn<br />
you see today is one of many steps.<br />
Initially, when the raw material<br />
fleece arrives in Yorkshire, it must<br />
be scoured to remove the wool<br />
grease and other contamination<br />
then it is sorted into ‘types’ that<br />
are graded according to fibre<br />
thickness and fibre length. The<br />
most suitable fibres are then used<br />
for spinning the yarn.<br />
Individual yarn shades are<br />
colour matched in a laboratory<br />
combining many component<br />
shades of dyed fleece which are<br />
all skilfully blended together<br />
to make the final colour. The<br />
records of the percentages<br />
used are recorded so that it can<br />
be reproduced or tweaked, if<br />
necessary. Once this has been<br />
completed, the fibres are then<br />
blended in bulk batches before<br />
moving on to the carding<br />
machine stage.<br />
Complex, noisy and extremely<br />
dangerous in the wrong<br />
circumstances, the carding<br />
machine is responsible for<br />
mixing the blended fleece. The<br />
blend is dropped into a container<br />
set at a particular weight so it is<br />
only emptied onto a conveyor<br />
26 ROWAN
1<br />
2 3<br />
Photos by Charlotte Briggs<br />
belt once the required weight<br />
is reached where it is padded<br />
down allowing it to be fed<br />
onto the carding machine. The<br />
carding machine consists of a<br />
series of roller sets, upon which<br />
are sharp needles, which work<br />
the fleece mixing the blend and<br />
aligning the fibres into a web,<br />
first one way and then the other<br />
to mix it thoroughly. There are<br />
many rollers each with a name<br />
and particular function, such as<br />
‘workers’ and ‘strippers’. The<br />
positions of these rollers along<br />
with the weight of fleece fed into<br />
the machine must be adjusted<br />
accordingly to determine the<br />
thickness of the yarn. Carding<br />
engineers set gears on the<br />
machines to create different<br />
outcomes for different yarns,<br />
a skill which is also worked on<br />
manually with somebody with<br />
an extremely fine eye for detail<br />
and a lot of experience. At the<br />
end of the carding machine a fine<br />
web is formed, the tape rubbers<br />
into a machine which creates a<br />
‘slubbing’ resembling a yarn with<br />
no twist inserted. This is wound<br />
onto a package for onward<br />
process of the yarn. At this stage,<br />
there is no strength in the yarn<br />
and it can be easily pulled apart,<br />
therefore, if there are any faults<br />
at this point, the fibres can be reprocessed<br />
from the beginning.<br />
Finally, the fibre is ready to be<br />
spun. During this process, two<br />
wheels work simultaneously to<br />
‘draft’ the slubbing to even out<br />
the yarn thickness further and the<br />
difference in speed between the<br />
two wheels is used to determine<br />
AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />
1. Albert Mills<br />
2. Raw material ready for carding<br />
3. Carding machine<br />
27
Worker<br />
Worker<br />
Stripper<br />
Worker<br />
Stripper<br />
Fancy<br />
Doffer Comb<br />
Feed Rollers<br />
Uncarded Wool in<br />
Angle<br />
Stripper<br />
Cylinder/<br />
Swift<br />
Doffer<br />
Carded Wool out<br />
Taker in<br />
the level of draft of the yarn. The<br />
twist is inserted into the yarn<br />
as it is wound onto a package<br />
called a ‘spinning cop’ ready for<br />
the next production process. The<br />
twist level is determined by the<br />
different speeds between the<br />
drafting wheel and spinning cop.<br />
Meanwhile, a special technology<br />
called Neumafil is used to remove<br />
any breakages at the drafting<br />
process using air currents. This is<br />
then recovered and reprocessed.<br />
The yarn now has twist and is<br />
then wound onto cones from<br />
the spinning cops. The winding<br />
machine detects any knots and<br />
faults, removing them. The<br />
cones then need to be steamed<br />
to set and straighten the yarn.<br />
Each steam cycle is 45 minutes<br />
long and the machines used are<br />
simple, the container containing<br />
the cones is wheeled in and<br />
the doors are closed to start the<br />
process.<br />
The single end of spun yarn is<br />
then folded together to achieve<br />
the required knitting weight,<br />
washed and wound onto either<br />
hanks, ball or doughnuts to<br />
create the yarns which we see<br />
available in stores world-wide,<br />
all processed and engineered in<br />
Yorkshire.<br />
Watch out for Valley Tweed<br />
in your LYS, you will see a<br />
wonderful tweedy effect created<br />
by nepps of colour, harder<br />
particles which stand up more<br />
to processing and so create the<br />
beautiful flecks you will see.<br />
MORE INFO<br />
28 ROWAN
AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />
29
TRENDS<br />
………………………<br />
<strong>Autumn</strong><br />
Winter <strong>2017</strong><br />
By Katie Calvert<br />
30 ROWAN
Knitwear is the main staple<br />
of a winter wardrobe. A<br />
knitted garment rests on the<br />
body, enveloping it and is worn,<br />
by some, as a simple requirement<br />
to keep warm. But we know that<br />
our dedicated <strong>Rowan</strong> knitter<br />
treats their treasured pieces as<br />
something much more than<br />
that. When you have invested<br />
your time knitting a garment, or<br />
accessory, so that it feels uniquely<br />
yours, you want to be able to<br />
wear it as much as possible, and<br />
not always in the same way. This<br />
season, <strong>Rowan</strong>’s Dawn Till Dusk<br />
designs are enlivened by their<br />
versatility and ability to be styled<br />
in a number of ways.<br />
Dawn Till Dusk, in magazine<br />
62, has been designed with<br />
a flexibility which suits any<br />
wardrobe and anyone’s personal<br />
style. It is about tailored knitwear<br />
…………………………<br />
Breakthrough knitwear<br />
trends include cable knits,<br />
stripes, polo necks and<br />
oversized styles,<br />
…………………………<br />
that can take you smoothly from<br />
the office and then to evening<br />
drinks. Or slouchy knitwear that<br />
can be worn as a cover-up over<br />
a multitude of outfits be they<br />
daytime or evening styles. The<br />
aspiration is that these pieces can<br />
take you through the day from<br />
dawn until dusk, hence the name.<br />
Many of the garments and<br />
accessories echo autumn winter<br />
trends for <strong>2017</strong>. Breakthrough<br />
knitwear trends include cable<br />
knits, stripes, polo necks and<br />
oversized styles, whilst fashion<br />
trends such as embellishment,<br />
unusual sleeves, the colour<br />
red and the resurgence of the<br />
cardigan are also realised. As<br />
a versatile story with flexible<br />
styling techniques, much of<br />
Dawn Till Dusk’s designs feature<br />
a plethora of these trends, which<br />
can be styled in various ways<br />
alongside the looks that you see<br />
in the magazine.<br />
At Sonia Rykiel, whose<br />
eponymous designer was dubbed<br />
the ‘Queen of Knits’, oversized<br />
cable knits, enhanced by wide<br />
necks, were styled with polo<br />
necks. At Louis Vuitton, polo<br />
necks were the essential item,<br />
paired with frills. Dawn Till Dusk<br />
may not feature any knitted polo<br />
necks, but Lisa Richardson’s<br />
styling has certainly referenced it.<br />
Sunset, with its oversized shape,<br />
designed by Marie Wallin, has<br />
a wide neck. This allows for a<br />
polo neck to stand out without<br />
detracting from the delicate<br />
cabling detail along the front of<br />
the garment and on the sleeves.<br />
It has been knitted in Liqueur,<br />
a lovely deep red shade, in firm<br />
favourite Kidsilk Haze. There<br />
aren’t many trends that this<br />
design doesn’t feature, with the<br />
ability to embellish always a<br />
possibility. But none of it is one<br />
trend too far! Instead, Sunset is a<br />
delicate, eye-catching piece that<br />
can be worked for day, whether<br />
Top:<br />
Sonia Rykiel<br />
Courtesy of www.vogue.co.uk<br />
Louis Vuitton<br />
Courtesy of www.vogue.co.uk<br />
Opposite right:<br />
Sunset<br />
by Marie Wallin<br />
Knitted in Kidsilk Haze<br />
Knitting & Crochet Magazine 62<br />
AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />
31
as office wear or as something<br />
more casual, illustrated in the<br />
photo shoot, or layered over an<br />
evening outfit for extra warmth.<br />
The subtle detail and wide neck,<br />
mixed with a rich shade perfectly<br />
demonstrates why Dawn Till<br />
Dusk is so adaptable without<br />
taking away from the passion<br />
that has gone into making such a<br />
treasured piece.<br />
Mellow, by Sarah Hatton, is<br />
another featured oversized knit,<br />
which also fits into the cable<br />
trend. Its wide front enfolds the<br />
body, enabling you to wear it from<br />
day to night, in informal or formal<br />
social occasions. Paired with<br />
Dusty Scarf by Martin Storey, you<br />
can sense that feeling of warm<br />
cosiness emanating from the pages<br />
of the <strong>Rowan</strong> magazine.<br />
Sleeves have taken an unusual<br />
turn this season, with some<br />
intertwining with the oversized<br />
trend. Protruding arms at<br />
Burberry and ribbed effects<br />
at Prabal Gurung emphasise<br />
the absurd. <strong>Rowan</strong> showcases<br />
more wearable versions that<br />
are, nonetheless, intriguing.<br />
Alongside Sunset, Evening and<br />
…………………………<br />
Sleeves have taken an<br />
unusual turn this season,<br />
with some intertwining<br />
with the oversided trend.<br />
…………………………<br />
Nightfall, both by Martin Storey,<br />
feature subtly billowing sleeves.<br />
Evening’s shorter design means<br />
that it works well contrasted<br />
Above:<br />
Prada<br />
Courtesy of www.vogue.co.uk<br />
Above left:<br />
Nightfall<br />
by Martin Storey<br />
Knitted in Kid Classic<br />
Knitting & Crochet Magazine 62<br />
32 ROWAN
with a longer sleeved garment.<br />
Nightfall, with its on-trend<br />
embellishment and long length,<br />
diverts the eye away from the<br />
delicate detail towards the more<br />
unlikely source of inspiration, the<br />
sleeve. Both designs are simple in<br />
essence, paired or layered with<br />
any number of garments, yet they<br />
stand out in their own right.<br />
The embellished trend, seen<br />
at Prada, works not only for<br />
eveningwear but, by making<br />
the choice to knit in softer<br />
hues, it becomes relevant for<br />
daywear. Eventide by Lisa<br />
Richardson has been knitted in<br />
Kid Classic’s Feather shade. The<br />
embellishment gives it a ‘wow’<br />
factor, whilst the shade makes<br />
it the perfect accompaniment<br />
either over jeans and a top,<br />
or layered over something<br />
smarter and more elegant, as<br />
demonstrated in the magazine<br />
by Lisa Richardson. Eventide’s<br />
length is also significant. It has<br />
been a while since long length<br />
cardigans have been seen on the<br />
catwalk. But, this season, they<br />
are back, with designer brands<br />
Trussardi and Chloé wearing<br />
them casually. At <strong>Rowan</strong>, our<br />
designers have shown how the<br />
long length cardigan is more<br />
versatile than this with simple<br />
details such as embellishment<br />
or unique sleeve shapes helping<br />
to do this. Although Lisa<br />
Richardson’s favourite garment<br />
is Twilight for its mix of yarns<br />
which make it very lightweight<br />
yet super cosy, she plans to knit<br />
Eventide<br />
by Lisa Richardson<br />
Knitted in Kid Classic<br />
Knitting & Crochet Magazine 62<br />
AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />
33
Gloaming first. Lisa knows, that<br />
as a staple piece of anyone’s<br />
wardrobe, she can wear this long<br />
length cardigan with everything.<br />
She plans to style it with a polo<br />
neck, slim trousers and Chelsea<br />
boots, adding a belt for definition.<br />
Stripes are often a popular<br />
trend and <strong>Rowan</strong> has been sure<br />
to include it. Eve, by Jennie<br />
Atkinson, with its wrap detail,<br />
hugs the body. When designing<br />
the garment, Jennie envisioned a<br />
piece of knitwear that, by using<br />
the long ties, could be converted<br />
from a loose, casual cover-up,<br />
worn over a dress or jeans, into<br />
a smarter top, tied to define the<br />
waist, that could be worn over<br />
loose-fit trousers or a long, slim<br />
skirt. However you choose to<br />
wear it, Eve stands out for its bold<br />
stripes and delicate neckline.<br />
There are two further designs<br />
which express the stripes trend<br />
using a knitting technique.<br />
Daybreak and Subdued’s rib<br />
detail lends itself to subtle<br />
striping, whether purposefully<br />
or not. Subdued also has unusual<br />
sleeve detail around the wrist,<br />
highlighting even more how on<br />
trend <strong>Rowan</strong> is, whilst never<br />
forgetting the need to create<br />
something timeless. Emma<br />
Wright, who designed Subdued,<br />
…………………………<br />
Stripes are often a<br />
popular trend and <strong>Rowan</strong><br />
has been sure to include<br />
it.<br />
…………………………<br />
imagines her design styled with a<br />
fitted denim mini skirt and a long<br />
sleeved top underneath, allowing<br />
a pop of colour to peek through.<br />
Tights are also a must. Layering,<br />
as obvious as it sounds, is a strong<br />
Top Left:<br />
Trussardi<br />
Courtesy of www.vogue.co.uk<br />
Top Right<br />
Chloe<br />
Courtesy of www.vogue.co.uk<br />
Opposite:<br />
Eve<br />
by Jennie Atkinson<br />
Knitted in Alpaca Merino DK<br />
Knitting & Crochet Magazine 62<br />
34 ROWAN
AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />
35
Prabal Gurung<br />
Courtesy of www.vogue.co.uk<br />
Opposite page:<br />
Evening<br />
by Martin Storey<br />
Knitted in Kid Classic<br />
Knitting & Crochet Magazine 62<br />
trend for this autumn winter.<br />
Choose to do what Emma would<br />
do for day or add an embellished<br />
knit for night. Having the choice<br />
to layer means having the choice<br />
to wear more than one favourite<br />
piece of clothing. It might sound<br />
simple, but it always works. This<br />
choice of styling by Emma lends<br />
itself well to other trends too.<br />
Oversized earrings are huge this<br />
season, the bigger the better to<br />
add a real statement.<br />
…………………………<br />
Layering, as obvious as it<br />
sounds, is a strong trend<br />
for this autumn winter.<br />
…………………………<br />
As for colour, the design team<br />
at <strong>Rowan</strong> has chosen a classic<br />
mix of blues and creams,<br />
alongside strong jewel tones.<br />
One of these, red, has been a<br />
firm favourite on the catwalk.<br />
However, never forget that,<br />
just as the shade chosen for the<br />
photo shoot garment rests with<br />
the designer, the colour of your<br />
finished piece is chosen by you,<br />
the <strong>Rowan</strong> knitter. You might<br />
prefer something subtle, such as<br />
a light blue that suits many of<br />
your outfits, or you may go for<br />
something much bolder. The<br />
beauty of a <strong>Rowan</strong> design, and<br />
of this story, is the choice that<br />
you have in creating your desired<br />
piece of knitwear.<br />
We can’t forget accessories.<br />
During the day in winter, the<br />
knitted scarf is everywhere. But<br />
for an evening out you might<br />
think that choosing something<br />
more delicate is more suitable. In<br />
order to make your knitted scarf<br />
desirable for evening, finer yarns,<br />
such as Fine Lace and Kidsilk<br />
Haze, have been selected by<br />
our designers, or embellishment<br />
has been added to give it a<br />
sophisticated feel for evening.<br />
The word ‘timeless’ can be<br />
banded about too readily, but<br />
when garments are so well<br />
designed that they gravitate<br />
successfully from one season to<br />
another, incorporated into trends<br />
that keep on changing, the term<br />
is eminently suitable. Dawn Till<br />
Dusk designs are just that. These<br />
timeless pieces incorporate some<br />
of this season’s trends but, more<br />
importantly, as trends evolve<br />
and styles change, they have the<br />
flexibility to move with these<br />
changes, offering alternative<br />
looks to what is already available.<br />
36 ROWAN
AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />
37
RETAILER<br />
FOCUS<br />
………………………<br />
Black Sheep<br />
Wools<br />
UK<br />
“Black Sheep Wools are proud to announce that<br />
our award winning Craft Barn, in Warrington, is<br />
now THE <strong>Rowan</strong> flagship store of the North West.<br />
We have a dazzling display of all of <strong>Rowan</strong>’s yarn<br />
and books nestled within the Craft Barn and you<br />
can snuggle up on the sofa in the cosy corner and<br />
soak up the inspiration for your next project.<br />
Another new addition will be our instore <strong>Rowan</strong><br />
Consultant Melanie Boocock. Melanie has been a<br />
<strong>Rowan</strong> workshop tutor for many years and we are<br />
delighted that she will be joining us as our <strong>Rowan</strong><br />
Design Consultant. Melanie will be in store two<br />
days a week to advise and help with all your <strong>Rowan</strong><br />
queries.<br />
On 30th September, we will be hosting a special<br />
launch event to celebrate this great new addition.<br />
Two of <strong>Rowan</strong>’s finest designers, Martin Storey and<br />
Lisa Richardson will join us for the day to share<br />
their passion and expertise. There will be goody bags<br />
for the first 20 customers, a charity raffle, glasses of<br />
bubbly, and lots of yarn to squish and admire! We’d<br />
love you to join us.”<br />
Click the button below for more information.<br />
MORE INFO<br />
38 ROWAN
AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />
39
INTERVIEW<br />
………………………<br />
Royal College<br />
of Art Students<br />
40 ROWAN
We talked to promising Royal College of Art Students<br />
Beth Ranson and Winnie Yeung about their first year<br />
of study and why they decided to work with <strong>Rowan</strong> yarns on<br />
their portfolio.<br />
What is the inspiration behind the collection?<br />
Beth - The inspiration behind the sourcing of my materials is most<br />
important to my practice. I follow a sustainable, responsible design<br />
ethos that explores the most creative ways of excelling in using zero<br />
waste production methods, using closed loop design processes and<br />
making everything I create with natural materials and natural dyes. I<br />
create all my colour palettes using natural dyes and every project I do<br />
incorporates this research led process.<br />
Everything I knit is inspired by my drawings and collages. Visually, I<br />
am inspired by my own photographs taken from travelling around the<br />
UK and Europe, little snap shots of details that aren’t too obvious but<br />
they inspire surface pattern, texture and colour ideas. I always love to<br />
draw.<br />
Nostalgia also has a key role in my practice. Childhood photos inspire<br />
silhouette and garment ideas, colour palettes and trim details for<br />
every sample I knit. I try to achieve a balance of contemporary design<br />
and beguiling nostalgia. Preservation of memories translates to the<br />
creation of luxury knitted samples and garments.<br />
Winnie - My main inspiration is mainly from Braille. I use to attend<br />
a project which was about how blind people see, feel and create art.<br />
It touched me and I think art is not the privilege for just sighted<br />
people but also for those people who cannot see. Thus when I am<br />
designing my art work I usually put my effort both into the texture<br />
and colour of my pieces. Moreover, I used a piece of research about<br />
the link between tactile impression and colour, for example, for most<br />
people fluffy texture reminds them of the colour yellow. The purpose<br />
of this research is to let blind people feel the colour from touches in<br />
their mind.<br />
Opposite:<br />
Naturaly dyed samples with Kidsilk<br />
Haze and cashmere blends<br />
by Beth Ranson<br />
What led you to choose <strong>Rowan</strong> yarns for the project?<br />
Beth - My sustainably led process focuses on the use of natural,<br />
compostable fibres. <strong>Rowan</strong> yarns were therefore an obvious choice.<br />
I use natural coloured yarns and dye them with natural dyes such as<br />
home grown Woad and Weld leaves, and food waste such as Avocado<br />
stones and onion skins.<br />
To create the blurry texture changes and soft luxurious contrasts<br />
within my collection I chose to knit with Kidsilk Haze. The 100%<br />
natural yarn is a beautiful texture, and once knitted can be brushed<br />
to create areas of extreme delicacy. <strong>Rowan</strong> is one of only a few<br />
companies that makes a 100% natural kid/silk mix yarn, as often they<br />
are mixed with a man made fibre to strengthen them and this means<br />
they cannot be used within my natural palette. Kidsilk Haze is the<br />
AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />
41
perfect component for every single sample I knit and I can’t imagine<br />
any of my samples looking complete without it.<br />
Winnie - I first used <strong>Rowan</strong> yarns for an art project four years ago<br />
and the main reason for me is because <strong>Rowan</strong> has the best reputation<br />
in this field with its use of natural fibres in its range. The reason for<br />
me to keep using it for the last four years is because <strong>Rowan</strong> gives me<br />
the range of choice from the texture, colour and size of the wool and<br />
yarn to fit my projects; also the quality of the wool or yarn is the best<br />
compared to what I have used before.<br />
How was it to visit Pitti (International trade fair for knitting yarns)?<br />
Beth - Visiting Pitti was such a brilliant experience! I was lucky<br />
enough to be able to visit some appointments with the head of<br />
The RCA Yarn Resource, and she was so generous in sharing her<br />
knowledge with us and teaching us whilst we were there. Learning<br />
about the creation methods and origins of so many raw materials and<br />
yarns was super interesting, and I hope I to go back again in January!<br />
The inspiration gained for my collection was a little overwhelming,<br />
as there were so many beautiful yarns, so it will be really exciting<br />
designing my final collection with all these options in mind.<br />
Winnie - My recent visit to Pitti provided me with a lot of<br />
information on what types of yarn are going to be trending next<br />
season and also gave me the chance to meet the manufacturers of<br />
those yarns to broaden my personal contacts.<br />
What does the second year at the RCA hold for you?<br />
Beth - My first year was spent exploring the potential of my theory<br />
of sustainable knitted textiles design, and researching a lot to push<br />
the boundaries of what I could achieve. My second year will see<br />
this research and experimentation culminate in more defined ideas,<br />
realised in final knitted samples and garments. I hope that this year I<br />
will continue to learn, but I will also be able to put my knowledge<br />
into my own unique practice and truly define my own aesthetic and<br />
ethos.<br />
I hope to continue to run my Natural Dye Workshops, have a really<br />
successful exhibition at the end of the year and eventually publish my<br />
book on using natural dyes within knitted textiles design… a draft of<br />
which I am already working on!<br />
Collaboration with Marianne Bauer<br />
and product designers Katrine<br />
Hesseldahl and Victor Strimfors.<br />
Yarns sponsored by <strong>Rowan</strong>.<br />
Exhibition at Royal College of Arts<br />
Show <strong>2017</strong>.<br />
by Winnie Yeung<br />
What support and recognition have you received for your work at the RCA?<br />
Beth - I was awarded a Company Award from the Worshipful<br />
Company of Haberdashers, in recognition for their view of my<br />
potential within the textiles industry. This was hugely encouraging<br />
for me. The bursary I was awarded means I will be able to order some<br />
of the amazing yarns I saw at Pitti, which is exciting!<br />
42 ROWAN
Winnie - I have won Bradford Textile Awards:The Clothworkers’<br />
Foundation Award, UK <strong>2017</strong> 1st Prize and The Woolmark Company<br />
Award, UK <strong>2017</strong> 2nd Prize (by using the <strong>Rowan</strong> alpaca yarns).<br />
How would you describe your first year?<br />
Beth - Overwhelming, challenging and totally inspiring. I haven’t<br />
yet produced anything that is complete because I am constantly<br />
encouraged to question an challenge my ideas and concepts. This first<br />
year forced me to elevate my work and justifications for it to the<br />
next level and I am now really excited to see how much more I can<br />
develop next year. This first year has provided the groundwork for<br />
what will hopefully be a creatively defining year for everyone in our<br />
year group.<br />
Winnie - The first year of study at RCA is basically an adaptive phase<br />
of my textile design. During the last four years, I have tried a lot of<br />
different projects to find the one that suited me the best. In this case, I<br />
focused on interior design and I used knitted textiles to decorate the<br />
sofa. Also, I tried to distinguish which knit patterns could be done by<br />
knitting machine and what has to be knitted by hand to create my<br />
unique pattern.<br />
AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />
43
FEATURE<br />
………………………<br />
Crochet Club Giveaway<br />
- Knit for Peace<br />
Jane Crowfoot<br />
‘Crochet Along’ or ‘CAL’<br />
A project is a much-liked<br />
concept and the impact of them<br />
has had a massive effect on the<br />
popularity of the craft over the<br />
last 5 years. CAL projects usually<br />
run over the course of a few<br />
weeks or months and offer the<br />
(often solitary) home crocheter<br />
the chance to work through a<br />
project in bite size pieces. As you<br />
may be aware, we are now part<br />
way through our Lisa Richardson<br />
Crochet Along <strong>2017</strong>, a beautiful<br />
blanket using Felted Tweed.<br />
By working through a CAL<br />
project, crocheters are not only<br />
given the chance to learn new<br />
techniques and increase their<br />
skills, but, in many cases, they can<br />
also engage in on-line discussions<br />
and form new friendships by<br />
working alongside others in<br />
virtual groups via personal blogs<br />
and social media platforms like<br />
Facebook and Instagram. Crochet<br />
is recognised as a therapeutic and<br />
cerebral activity, encouraging<br />
44 ROWAN<br />
hand eye coordination and the<br />
use of the left side of the brain.<br />
Jane Crowfoot designed and<br />
released her first limited edition<br />
CAL project in 2011 when<br />
crochet along projects were few<br />
and far between. Jane continued<br />
to release limited edition CAL<br />
projects via her exclusive<br />
‘Crochet Club’ label until<br />
2014. All Jane’s Crochet Along<br />
projects included yarns from the<br />
<strong>Rowan</strong> range and Jane designed<br />
the projects to push the skill<br />
levels of crocheters in order to<br />
create fabulous crochet throws/<br />
hangings.<br />
Since 2014, Jane has gone on to<br />
design many crochet projects for<br />
the home and is well recognised<br />
within the craft field for her use<br />
of colour and technique, indeed<br />
<strong>2017</strong> has seen her recognized<br />
as Motivational Designer of the<br />
Year within The British Craft<br />
Awards and as runner-up in the<br />
Favourite Crochet Designer of
2013 Complete Blanket<br />
by Jane Crowfoot<br />
Opposite Page:<br />
Bloomsbury Garden.<br />
the Year Category in the British<br />
Knitting and Crochet Awards.<br />
Jane’s Crochet Club projects are<br />
massively sought after, as they<br />
were released as limited edition<br />
kits and are no longer available.<br />
Jane and her studio team are<br />
asked for kits and patterns for<br />
past clubs on a daily basis, but<br />
kits rarely become available and<br />
the patterns are now archived, so<br />
those seeking kits are often left<br />
disapointed. However, Jane has<br />
recently been given a complete<br />
kit for the 2013 Crochet Club<br />
project which she has decided to<br />
offer as a prize giveaway in order<br />
to raise funds for Knit For Peace,<br />
a charity that supports needy and<br />
vulnerable people all over the<br />
world through knit and crochet<br />
projects and initiatives.<br />
The kit, which includes 31 balls of<br />
<strong>Rowan</strong> Cotton Glacé and 3 bags<br />
of Debbie Abrahams knitting<br />
beads, originally belonged to<br />
Crochet Club member Sally<br />
Smith who sadly passed away<br />
recently. Sally’s sister Jayne has<br />
very kindly agreed that the kit<br />
can be raffled in Sally’s memory,<br />
so, to be in with a chance of<br />
winning the kit, which also<br />
comes with the PDF download<br />
patterns, all you need to do is go<br />
onto the Knit For Peace website<br />
and follow the link to make a<br />
monetary donation. A donation<br />
of just £2 counts as a raffle entry,<br />
but you can pledge however<br />
much you would like to and<br />
you can enter the draw as many<br />
times as you want, with each<br />
individual donation counting<br />
as one entry. The raffle runs for<br />
four weeks between August<br />
7th and September 4 th and the<br />
winner will be notified later on<br />
in September.<br />
We are sure that this will be an<br />
incredibly popular raffle prize<br />
and hope that the draw will raise<br />
lots of money for this worthy<br />
charity, however, if you would<br />
rather not enter, or are not lucky<br />
enough to be the winner of<br />
the project pack, then you may<br />
be interested to know that Jane<br />
will be releasing an exciting new<br />
design, which features yarns from<br />
the <strong>Rowan</strong> range, later on this<br />
year. We are also looking forward<br />
to seeing more of her work using<br />
our yarns in 2018….watch this<br />
space!<br />
KNIT FOR PEACE<br />
AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />
45
Lisa Richardson<br />
Crochet Along <strong>2017</strong><br />
Release 4<br />
We are now into the fourth stage of our<br />
fabulous Felted Tweed blanket Crochet Along!<br />
For those of you who have joined us on this<br />
colourful journey, don’t forget to update us on<br />
your progress on our Facebook and Instagram<br />
pages!<br />
Missed the start? Don’t worry, there’s still plenty of<br />
time to catch up. Download the shopping list here!<br />
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46 ROWAN
AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />
47
48 ROWAN
Tips & Techniques<br />
………………………<br />
How to Two<br />
Colour Fairisle<br />
by Katherine Lymer<br />
Thackerey Scarf<br />
by Martin Storey<br />
Knitted in Felted Tweed<br />
Knitting & Crochet Magazine 62<br />
Fairisle knitting is a form of<br />
stranded knitting where different<br />
coloured yarns can be worked at<br />
any point on the row (as set by the<br />
pattern) and the yarn not in use is<br />
carried, or “stranded”, across the<br />
back of the work. Traditionally<br />
worked in the round, traditional<br />
fairisle is unique from other<br />
stranded fairisle knitting as it<br />
only uses two colours in one<br />
round (or row) and its designs<br />
include diagonal lines – hence<br />
our familiarity with such patterns<br />
as Norwegian stars, used to such<br />
beautiful effect in “Kintyre” from<br />
Magazine 52.<br />
Fairisle knitting is best worked<br />
with one ball of yarn in each hand:<br />
It helps the stranded yarn to lie<br />
flat and prevents the balls of wool<br />
from tangling around each other.<br />
Knitters who mainly work the<br />
“English way” (using their right<br />
hand to hold the working needle<br />
and throw the yarn) may find<br />
holding the yarn in their left hand<br />
awkward. Ditto for “continental<br />
AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />
knitters” unused to holding yarn<br />
in their right hand. To overcome<br />
this, try knitting a swatch, in a<br />
single colour using your “other<br />
hand” (so “continentally” if<br />
you’re usually an “English knitter”<br />
and vice versa if not) - without<br />
worrying about tension and<br />
colour changes. If you’re going to<br />
be working in the round, where<br />
you only need to knit to create<br />
stocking-stitch fabric, work your<br />
flat swatch in garter stitch. If,<br />
however, knitting plain swatches<br />
isn’t your cup of tea and you’d<br />
like to practise all the techniques<br />
described below, consider a small<br />
project, such as Martin Storey’s<br />
“Snowflake Coaster” from his<br />
timeless “Nordic Knits” collection.<br />
When you’re ready to work in<br />
two colours, hold the main colour<br />
yarn in your most familiar hand<br />
to help create a smooth, even<br />
fabric with any discrepancies in<br />
tension – arising from the newer<br />
method of knitting – restricted to<br />
the fewer, contrast-colour stitches.<br />
49
a<br />
b<br />
A traditional fairisle pattern will<br />
have frequent changes between<br />
the two colours, thus producing<br />
short strands (or “floats”) that<br />
are neatly locked into the work.<br />
Where the pattern requires long<br />
sections of one colour, it may be<br />
necessary to weave-in the yarn<br />
not in use to prevent creation of<br />
long strands that are easy to catch<br />
and pull. The exact number of<br />
stitches in a run of a single colour<br />
is largely influenced by the type of<br />
wool being worked: For example,<br />
100% Shetland wool is “sticky”<br />
enough to permit stranding over<br />
seven stitches. When knitting<br />
with <strong>Rowan</strong> yarns, our advice is<br />
not to strand over more than four<br />
or five stitches.<br />
a<br />
b<br />
c<br />
Knit weaving LH colour<br />
a. LH thrown<br />
b. LH + RH thrown<br />
c. Weave complete<br />
Following the strictest definition<br />
of fairisle knitting, we would<br />
work in the round - enjoying<br />
the usual advantages of circular<br />
knitting: increased speed of<br />
work and even tension by only<br />
working the knit stitch, rightside<br />
of the fabric always facing us<br />
and elimination of seams - so any<br />
weaving would be worked with<br />
knitted stitches: To weave-in<br />
the colour held in our left hand<br />
(LH), insert the right-hand (RH)<br />
needle into the next stitch on the<br />
LH needle as if to knit. Raise the<br />
LH colour to lie across the back<br />
of the RH needle and throw the<br />
RH colour over RH needle in<br />
the usual way: The LH colour<br />
will be caught in the back of the<br />
new stitch.<br />
c<br />
d<br />
Knit weaving RH colour<br />
a. RH thrown<br />
b. RH + LH thrown<br />
c. LH thrown + RH undone<br />
d. Weave complete<br />
50 ROWAN
a<br />
To weave-in the RH colour,<br />
insert the RH needle into the<br />
next stitch on the LH needle as if<br />
to knit and throw the RH colour<br />
over the RH needle as normal.<br />
Pluck the LH colour over the<br />
RH needle. “Undo” the RH<br />
colour by pulling it to the back<br />
of the needle: The RH colour<br />
will be caught in the back of the<br />
new stitch.<br />
a<br />
b<br />
c<br />
Purl weaving LH colour<br />
a. LH thrown<br />
b. LH + RH thrown<br />
c. Weave complete<br />
However, if we want to work<br />
back-and-forth, to create a flat<br />
piece of fabric, (to create, for<br />
example, “Fishlake” from Mag.<br />
62), we need to be able to purl<br />
and weave-in when working two<br />
balls of wool. To weave-in the<br />
LH colour when purling, insert<br />
the RH needle into the next<br />
stitch on the LH needle to purl<br />
as normal. Raise the LH colour<br />
over the front of the RH needle<br />
and across the top of the LH<br />
needle. Throw the RH colour in<br />
the usual way to form the new<br />
purl stitch, catching with it the<br />
LH colour.<br />
b<br />
c<br />
To weave-in the RH colour<br />
when purling, we follow a similar<br />
process of “undoing” as when<br />
knitting: Insert the RH needle<br />
into the next stitch on the LH<br />
needle as if to purl and throw the<br />
RH colour under and around<br />
the needle (i.e. in the opposite<br />
way to normal). Pluck the LH<br />
colour over the top of the RH<br />
needle (as normal). “Undo” the<br />
RH colour and form the new<br />
purl stitch as normal, catching<br />
with it the LH colour.<br />
d<br />
Purl weaving RH colour<br />
a. RH thrown the wrong way<br />
b. RH + LH thrown<br />
c. LH thrown + RH undone<br />
d. Weave complete<br />
AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />
51
Knitters new to Fairisle may find<br />
tension changes over the stranded<br />
sections, leading to tight, inelastic<br />
and uneven colour work. This<br />
is often due to over-tightening<br />
the strands, crushing the stitches<br />
in-between and preventing the<br />
fabric – and pattern – sitting<br />
properly in the round (or row).<br />
The traditional diagonal designs<br />
are not just aesthetically pleasing<br />
but are created with this problem<br />
in mind: By varying the positions<br />
of the colour changes, these<br />
inherent points of tension are<br />
distributed across the rounds,<br />
rather than forming straight,<br />
unyielding columns of colour.<br />
loose!) by regularly reviewing our<br />
work while knitting each round<br />
(or row) and, where necessary,<br />
easing the working yarns through<br />
the fabric to remove any slack or<br />
tightness. If the tension between<br />
the stranded and non-stranded<br />
knitting remains uneven, it<br />
might also be helpful to change<br />
needle size for the colour work<br />
section(s). However, the relaxed,<br />
repetitive actions that come<br />
with a technique well-practised,<br />
should allow for the creation of<br />
an even, elastic fabric.<br />
Fishlake<br />
by Marie Wallin<br />
Knitted in Felted Tweed<br />
Knitting & Crochet Magazine 62<br />
Practically, a more even fabric<br />
can be created by ensuring that<br />
our strands are loose (but not too<br />
52 ROWAN
R O W A N<br />
S E L E C T S<br />
r o wa n finest<br />
6 designs for women<br />
by Martin Storey,<br />
Sarah Hatton & Amy Herzog<br />
using ROWAN Selects<br />
ROWAN Finest.<br />
Available now from your<br />
ROWAN stockist.<br />
MORE INFO<br />
AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />
53
THIS SEASON<br />
WE LOVE<br />
………………………<br />
Fruity Knitting<br />
We caught up with the brilliant Andrea<br />
Doig, half of popular duo Fruity<br />
Knitting, about her podcasts and knitting<br />
background.<br />
Tell us a little bit about yourself<br />
Andrew (my husband) and I are Australians and<br />
have been living in Germany for 18 years now.<br />
We live in Offenbach (close to Frankfurt) with<br />
our daughter Madeleine and our dog Jack, both of<br />
whom regularly appear on the podcast. We released<br />
Episode 1 in March 2016 and as I write this we’re<br />
about to release Episode 34. I did a degree in<br />
Music Performance and taught piano and singing<br />
for many years as well as regularly performing as a<br />
singer. I come from a very crafty family, was taught<br />
to knit around 6 years old and was knitting fairly<br />
involved garments already in my early teens. I love<br />
to knit and compared to other things that I’ve done<br />
in my life, I find knitting very easy and relaxing.<br />
Andrew is a beginner knitter, having started to knit<br />
a little over a year ago. He is definitely more of an<br />
academic than someone who likes to work with<br />
his hands, so he does find learning new techniques<br />
challenging. I think he does brilliantly and I love to<br />
‘throw him in the deep end’ with a new technique.<br />
He is presently knitting Brioche.<br />
Why did you decide to start your Fruity<br />
Knitting podcasts and what were your aims<br />
for it in the beginning?<br />
Around 3 years ago I was having problems with<br />
my voice that meant I couldn’t sing for a while.<br />
This was extremely distressing for me so to distract<br />
myself I started to knit more intensively. When I do<br />
something I often delve into it rather intensively and<br />
learn as much as I can about whatever I’m focusing<br />
on. So during this time I was always searching<br />
for documentaries on knitting or interviews with<br />
really great designers, anything informative about<br />
the craft of knitting. I didn’t know about knitting<br />
podcasts. I found some short films on Shetland<br />
knitting, a couple of short interviews with Kaffe<br />
Fassett but not much else.<br />
I then thought, wouldn’t it be cool to have a knitting<br />
channel which featured the kind of informative<br />
interviews that I was really looking for. Andrew<br />
then came on board, because it’s always much more<br />
54 ROWAN
fun to do things together than alone. Our aim<br />
was to produce an informative and entertaining<br />
program about the craft of knitting. I go into a lot of<br />
depth about knitting techniques as an experienced<br />
knitter and Andrew acts as encouragement to other<br />
beginners as he laughs his way through struggling<br />
with magic looping, 2 handed fairisle and now<br />
Brioche. Our guests are a big part of our show. We<br />
try to cover every part of the knitting and fibre<br />
world, from designers and very talented knitters to<br />
yarn producers and experts on sheep and fiber. I<br />
always try to organise each segment of our show to<br />
be as content rich as possible (but still entertaining)<br />
so that our viewers feel they learn something new<br />
every episode. That was our aim from the beginning<br />
and we try to improve with every episode.<br />
You have now released over thirty podcasts<br />
on YouTube, what have been the highlights of<br />
your journey so far?<br />
We have two major segments in each episode.<br />
One of them is ‘Knitters of the World’ where we<br />
feature very talented but amateur knitters. It has<br />
been a huge joy to bring these knitters into the<br />
limelight to show off their amazing knitting to an<br />
audience of thousands. The second major segment<br />
is the interview. In preparing for the interviews I<br />
have been able to meet some amazing experts in<br />
the knitting and fiber world. I never take this for<br />
granted and feel very privileged to have this direct<br />
contact. It spurs me on to prepare the best interview<br />
that I can with them. Some of these people are not<br />
only very knowledgeable experts but are incredibly<br />
interesting and inspiring people. I am often on a<br />
high after having done an interview.<br />
It has also been wonderful to receive feedback from<br />
our viewers that we have inspired them to take on<br />
new challenges with their knitting, like knitting<br />
a garment for the first time or trying out colour<br />
work and most recently cutting and grafting their<br />
knitting to fix mistakes.<br />
What is the process of planning content for<br />
the podcasts?<br />
To make sure we always have enough content<br />
for each episode I plan out the segments weeks<br />
in advance. This process of planning and creating<br />
AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />
55
is now my full time work. Sometimes a 5 minute<br />
segment has taken 5-6 hours in organising, filming<br />
and editing.<br />
My inspiration is based on what I was originally<br />
looking for - high quality documentaries about<br />
knitting. When I’m planning content and editing,<br />
I am always thinking about how I can make it as<br />
interesting, varied and informative as possible. I am<br />
also always looking at what I can cut out to keep it<br />
lively and to the point. I have a musical background<br />
so I love to choose music that best represents the<br />
designs, the mood or something in the personality<br />
of each of our guests. That part is a lot of fun.<br />
Do you find that you have a truly global<br />
audience?<br />
Yes and no, there are still many people who don’t<br />
understand English, even in countries that have a<br />
heritage of knitting. There are many wonderful<br />
knitters in Russia and some parts of Asia who are<br />
doing incredible work but the language barrier<br />
means they wouldn’t watch us and unfortunately<br />
because they can’t speak English, I am unable to<br />
feature them on our show. However, we do have<br />
viewers from an extraordinarily wide range of<br />
countries around the world, and we really love it<br />
when someone tells us they are watching from<br />
somewhere exotic. In the last month we had a few<br />
viewers from Ethiopia. Apparently there is a group<br />
of Indian women in a very remote mountain village<br />
who gather to watch us. Only one of them speaks<br />
English and she translates to the others. They find<br />
it very funny to watch Andrew knitting me socks.<br />
What’s next for Fruity Knitting?<br />
For the first eight to ten months I was working<br />
weekends and every evening to produce the<br />
podcast and supporting website around my normal<br />
teaching work. That wasn’t something I could<br />
sustain long term so we set up a Patreon campaign<br />
(a crowdfunding platform for artists) so I could stop<br />
my teaching work and we could continue with the<br />
podcast. Our immediate goal is to stabilise that so<br />
we can confidently keep going.<br />
We have noticed that you sometimes have<br />
projects from the <strong>Rowan</strong> collections on the<br />
go, which was the last one you undertook and<br />
how did you find it?<br />
At the moment I don’t have a <strong>Rowan</strong> design on<br />
my needles but my daughter Madeleine is knitting<br />
Lantic by Sarah Hatton. She loves it. For her, it’s not<br />
too difficult, the design is classic and elegant and<br />
the recommended Softyak DK is a totally gorgeous<br />
yarn to work with.<br />
I have knitted a lot of <strong>Rowan</strong> designs. I love how<br />
<strong>Rowan</strong> supports really top, highly qualified designers.<br />
On Ravelry and in some other publications, there<br />
are a lot of basic knitting patterns available that<br />
are aimed at the intermediate knitter but very few<br />
patterns that showcase the extreme end of advanced<br />
knitting. I love how <strong>Rowan</strong> includes these designs<br />
in their collections. It elevates the craft of knitting<br />
to an art form and serves as inspiration.<br />
Do you have any tips for those people who<br />
are considering starting out with a vlog or<br />
podcasts?<br />
This is a hard question because everything on the<br />
internet is changing very fast and people have<br />
different motivations to podcast or vlog. I think<br />
the main thing is to have a clear vision of what<br />
you would like to do and not to feel like you have<br />
to copy a certain format or that there are hidden<br />
rules that you must follow. Be yourself and bring<br />
something new to the table.<br />
Click below to view Andrea and Andrew’s<br />
latest podcast issue.<br />
PODCAST<br />
56 ROWAN
EVENTS<br />
………………………<br />
UK<br />
Liberty Sewing School<br />
Saturday 9th September<br />
Learn to Crochet with Donna<br />
Grossman<br />
Saturday 16th September<br />
Design, Knit and Fit! With<br />
Georgia Farrell<br />
Saturday 23rd September<br />
Quilt as You Go with Lyn<br />
Scoulding<br />
Saturday 30th September<br />
Introduction to Brioche<br />
Knitting with Suzanne Strachan<br />
Saturday 28th October<br />
Hand Sew a Christmas Gift<br />
with Karen Roger<br />
MORE INFO<br />
John Lewis Oxford Street<br />
Knit Club<br />
Monday 4th September<br />
Lisa Richardson Crochet Along<br />
Monday 2nd October<br />
Timeless Collections - Cocoon<br />
and Worsted<br />
Mon 6th November<br />
Essential Accessories<br />
The Knitting & Stitching<br />
Show, Alexandra Palace,<br />
London<br />
11th – 15th October<br />
MORE INFO<br />
AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />
57
EVENTS<br />
………………………<br />
USA<br />
August<br />
3rd - 6th<br />
Stitches Midwest, Shaumberg,<br />
Ill<br />
8th - 13th<br />
I-75 Yarn Crawl, Interstate Rt<br />
75 Tennesse to Michigan<br />
13th - 20th<br />
Alaska Cruise with<br />
GalinaKhmeleva and Cheryl<br />
Brunette, Alaska<br />
17th - 20th<br />
Rocky Mountain Men’s<br />
Knitting Retreat, Estes Park, CO<br />
19th - 20th<br />
Twist Fiber Festival, St. Andre-<br />
Svellin, Quebec, Canada<br />
19th - 27th<br />
Yarn Along the Rockies Yarn<br />
Crawl, Colorado Front Range<br />
31st -3rd September<br />
West Coast’s Men’s Knitting<br />
Retreat, Federal Way Seattle<br />
September<br />
7th -10th<br />
Vogue Destinations Sonoma<br />
Valley with Nicky Epstein and<br />
Debbie Macomber, Sheraton<br />
Sonoma County, Petaluma, CA<br />
9th<br />
Kitchener- Waterloo Knitter’s<br />
Fair, Kitchener Memorial<br />
Auditorium, Ontario, Canada<br />
14th - 17th<br />
Greater Boston Yarn Crawl<br />
Boston, MA area<br />
14th - 17th<br />
Stitches Texas, Irving<br />
Convention Center, Irving, TX<br />
14th - 17th<br />
San Diego Yarn Crawl<br />
San Diego, CA<br />
15th - 17th<br />
New York City Yarn Crawl<br />
Manhattan to Brooklyn<br />
31st - 1st October<br />
Knit City, PNE Forum,<br />
Vancouver, BC, Canada<br />
58 ROWAN
®<br />
®<br />
October<br />
6th - 7th<br />
32nd Annual Knitters Day Out,<br />
Central Pennsylvania College,<br />
Summerdale, PA<br />
6th - 15th<br />
Best Little Yarn Crawl in TX,<br />
Hill County, TX<br />
20th - 22nd<br />
Knit East Fibre Fest, St.<br />
Andrews by the Sea,<br />
New Brunswick<br />
26th - 29th<br />
Southeast Men’s Knitting<br />
Retreat, Cleveland, SC<br />
®<br />
VOGUEKNITTING<br />
LIVE!<br />
VOGUEKNITTING<br />
LIVE!<br />
VK Live<br />
Seattle<br />
3rd - 5th November<br />
VOGUEKNITTING<br />
LIVE!<br />
MORE INFO<br />
FINAL Didot HTF M16 Medium Gotham Bold 100K 40%K<br />
AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />
59
R O W A N<br />
AVAILABLE<br />
SEPTEMBER<br />
S E L E C T S<br />
CAMELLO<br />
8 designs for women by Lisa Richardson & Sarah Hatton<br />
using ROWAN Selects Camello<br />
Visit www.knitrowan.com in September for more information