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<strong>Autumn</strong> Newsletter<br />

AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />

1


Hello and welcome to our new look quarterly <strong>newsletter</strong>!<br />

As we are busily getting to grips with the new <strong>Autumn</strong> Winter<br />

collections, we are also excited to have recently launched a brand<br />

new look to our website, www.knitrowan.com. It certainly has<br />

been a busy few weeks and months here in Yorkshire.<br />

This issue, we bring you all the details of new yarns and designs,<br />

including Knitting & Crochet Magazine 62 – we’d love to hear<br />

your thoughts of the new edition and which of the designs you<br />

are tempted by! We also catch up with enthusiast Andrea from<br />

Fruity Knitting about her and her husband’s fabulous podcasts,<br />

take a look at emerging fashion trends this autumn and hear<br />

from two promising Royal College of Art students, who are<br />

creating works of art using <strong>Rowan</strong> yarn.<br />

This season, we are excited to release a brand new tweed yarn,<br />

spun in Yorkshire, the heartland of <strong>Rowan</strong>. Read on to find out<br />

about the process of how the yarn is manufactured in Albert<br />

Mills, a historic building just a few miles away from the <strong>Rowan</strong><br />

design office in Huddersfield.<br />

We are also focusing on the fairisle technique in this issue<br />

and we bring you a helpful how-to article, including step-bystep<br />

tips and images. Finally, we hear from the talented Jane<br />

Crowfoot about a brilliant charity auction she is offering at the<br />

moment for a very special and rare prize.<br />

As always, we hope you enjoy your new issue. We’d love to hear<br />

what you think of the new website and collections, why not<br />

visit our <strong>Rowan</strong> Yarns Facebook page to tell us your thoughts!<br />

The <strong>Rowan</strong> team<br />

Cover: Sweeting<br />

by Lisa Richardson<br />

Knitted in Kid Classic<br />

Knitting & Crochet Magazine 62<br />

<strong>Rowan</strong> Yarns<br />

17F Brooke’s Mill, Armitage Bridge,<br />

Huddersfield,<br />

West Yorkshire, HD4 7NR<br />

CONTACT<br />

All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or<br />

any part of all material, including illustrations<br />

and designs, in this publication/pattern is<br />

strictly forbidden and is sold on the condition<br />

that it is used for non commercial purposes.<br />

No part may be reproduced, stored in a<br />

retrieval system, or transmitted in any form<br />

or by any means electronic, electrostatic,<br />

magnetic tape, mechanical, photocopying,<br />

recording or otherwise without prior<br />

permission of the copyright owners having<br />

been given in writing. Yarn quantities<br />

are approximate and are based on average<br />

requirements. Images and shades are for<br />

guidance only as colours may not display<br />

accurately on screen or in printed format.<br />

Contact your local stockist to view a fringed<br />

(not digital reproduction) yarn shade card.<br />

© Copyright MEZ Crafts UK Ltd., <strong>2017</strong>.<br />

MEZ Crafts UK Ltd., 17F, Brooke’s Mill,<br />

Armitage Bridge, Huddersfield, HD4 7NR,<br />

Web: www.knitrowan.com<br />

2 ROWAN


CONTRIBUTORS<br />

………………………<br />

Katie Calvert’s background is<br />

in fashion and textiles, with<br />

previous experience in trend<br />

forecasting, public relations and<br />

events before joining the closeknit<br />

<strong>Rowan</strong> team as a freelancer<br />

in September 2015. Although<br />

her knitting skills leave much to<br />

be desired, she loves fashion and<br />

writing for <strong>Rowan</strong> means that<br />

she is able to pass that passion<br />

onto you!<br />

Andrea and Andrew Doig are<br />

Australians who moved to<br />

Germany in 1999. Andrea has<br />

been knitting since she was 6<br />

years old and comes from a<br />

very crafty family. Andrew is a<br />

beginner knitter and, coming<br />

from a family of academics, had<br />

no exposure to crafting before<br />

Andrea sat him on the couch<br />

with a ball of wool and a pair of<br />

needles.<br />

Jane Crowfoot studied textile<br />

design at Winchester School<br />

of Art in the UK, where she<br />

specialized in knitting. Following<br />

graduation, she worked as a<br />

freelance textile designer and<br />

worked as a Design Consultant<br />

for <strong>Rowan</strong> Yarns. She tutors many<br />

knitting and crochet workshops<br />

across the UK, offering handson<br />

advice to knitters through<br />

teaching and demonstrations.<br />

Katherine Lymer is a knitting<br />

tutor, designer and writer based<br />

in the inspirational countryside<br />

of the Scottish Borders. She<br />

enjoys travelling throughout the<br />

UK, giving workshops on all<br />

aspects of knitting and teaching<br />

people of all ages and skill levels.<br />

Find Woolly<br />

Ewe!<br />

Somewhere in this<br />

<strong>newsletter</strong>, a shy ewe is<br />

hiding! Find her and click to<br />

reveal an exclusive surprise.<br />

Good luck.<br />

Follow us on Social Media…<br />

AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />

3


48<br />

6<br />

30<br />

8<br />

38<br />

26 46<br />

44<br />

4 ROWAN


AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />

………………………<br />

Contents<br />

40<br />

24<br />

22<br />

Exclusive Free Pattern<br />

- Skipness 6<br />

New Season<br />

- <strong>Autumn</strong> Winter ‘17 8<br />

Retailer Focus<br />

- Uncommon Threads 22<br />

August Members Pattern<br />

- Carlton 24<br />

September & October Members<br />

Patterns Preview 25<br />

Behind the Scenes<br />

- Brierley Brothers Ltd. 26<br />

Trends<br />

- <strong>Autumn</strong> Winter ‘17 30<br />

Retailer Focus<br />

- Black Sheep Wools 38<br />

Royal College of Arts Students Interview 40<br />

Crochet Club Giveaway<br />

- Knit for Peace 44<br />

Lisa Richardson Crochet Along 46<br />

Tips & Techniques<br />

- How to Fairisle Knit 48<br />

This Season We Love<br />

- Fruity Knitting 54<br />

Events 57<br />

AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />

5


FREE PATTERN<br />

………………………<br />

Skipness<br />

By Martin Storey<br />

Knitted in Cashmere Tweed<br />

DOWNLOAD<br />

6 ROWAN


AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />

7


8 ROWAN


NEW SEASON<br />

………………………<br />

<strong>Autumn</strong> Winter ‘17<br />

Dusky Scarf<br />

by Martin Storey<br />

Knitted in Felted Tweed & Kidsilk Haze<br />

AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />

9


NEW SEASON<br />

………………………<br />

Knitting<br />

& Crochet<br />

Magazine 62<br />

For the main collection for<br />

<strong>Autumn</strong> Winter, two themes are<br />

perfectly highlighted throughout<br />

two iconic design stories.<br />

Kinship<br />

A story inspired by <strong>Rowan</strong>’s<br />

original roots, housed in a<br />

beautiful old woollen mill and<br />

the surrounding landscape of<br />

the stunning Yorkshire Dales.<br />

Featuring 22 iconic designs for<br />

women, the collection showcases<br />

stunning cabling, colourwork<br />

and texture, worked in yarn<br />

favourites such as Kid Classic,<br />

Felted Tweed and Big Wool.<br />

Pieces range from cosy sweaters,<br />

to textured scarves and an<br />

intricate fairisle cardigan.<br />

Top left:<br />

Cowlam<br />

by Lisa Richardson<br />

Knitted in Hemp Tweed<br />

Top right:<br />

Bradshaw<br />

by Martin Storey<br />

Knitted in Kid Classic<br />

Opposite:<br />

Greenwood<br />

by Galina Carroll<br />

Knitted in Felted Tweed<br />

Far page:<br />

Gransmoor<br />

by Lisa Richardson<br />

Knitted in Hemp Tweed<br />

10 ROWAN


AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />

11


NEW SEASON<br />

………………………<br />

Knitting<br />

& Crochet<br />

Magazine 62<br />

Dawn Till Dusk<br />

Dawn Till Dusk is inspired by<br />

knitwear that can take you from<br />

the office to evening drinks or<br />

slouchy layer pieces that can be<br />

worn for an afternoon stroll or<br />

as a cover-up over evening wear.<br />

Pieces are stylish, yet versatile<br />

and range from a neat cabled<br />

sweater, to an elegant beaded<br />

cardigan and a pretty lace detail<br />

wrap scarf.<br />

VIEW<br />

COLLECTION<br />

Top:<br />

Evening<br />

by Martin Storey<br />

Knitted in Kid Classic<br />

Opposite:<br />

Mellow<br />

by Sarah Hatton<br />

Knitted in Kid Classic<br />

Far page:<br />

Hutton Scarf & Twilight<br />

by Lisa Richardson<br />

Twilight knitted in Kidsilk Haze & Fine<br />

Lace<br />

Hutton Scarf crocheted in Felted Tweed<br />

& Kidsilk Haze<br />

12 ROWAN


AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />

13


NEW SEASON<br />

………………………<br />

Journeyman<br />

A collection of truly modern<br />

classic knits, Journeyman<br />

showcases the best qualities of<br />

the popular Hemp Tweed yarn,<br />

and features Martin Storey’s<br />

signature nautical cables, slip<br />

stitch checks and simple rib and<br />

stocking stitch designs. Twelve<br />

relaxed pieces range from stylish<br />

polo neck jumpers, to elegant<br />

cabled sweaters and a ribbed<br />

beanie hat.<br />

VIEW<br />

COLLECTION<br />

Top left:<br />

Hudson Scarf<br />

by Martin Storey<br />

Knitted in Felted Tweed<br />

Top right:<br />

Dean<br />

by Martin Storey<br />

Knitted in Felted Tweed<br />

Opposite:<br />

Brando<br />

by Martin Storey<br />

Knitted in Hemp Tweed<br />

14 ROWAN


NEW SEASON<br />

………………………<br />

Brushed<br />

Fleece Knits<br />

This is a clean collection of easyto-knit,<br />

signature cables and<br />

simple stocking stitch and texture.<br />

Designed by Quail Studio, pieces<br />

range from cosy sweaters, to<br />

long-length cardigans and a<br />

comfy snood and bobbly hat set,<br />

all worked in the beautifully soft<br />

Brushed Fleece yarn.<br />

VIEW<br />

COLLECTION<br />

Harper<br />

by Quail Studio<br />

Knitted in Brushed Fleece<br />

AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />

15


NEW SEASON<br />

………………………<br />

Cashmere<br />

Tweed<br />

Inspired by the styles and<br />

patterning of Scandinavian and<br />

Icelandic knits, this collection of<br />

seven modern knits is worked<br />

in the brand new Cashmere<br />

Tweed yarn. Showcasing eyecatching<br />

colourwork and simple,<br />

yet elegant shapes, this collection<br />

features designs from cosy winter<br />

accessories to versatile sweaters<br />

and a short-sleeved tunic.<br />

VIEW<br />

COLLECTION<br />

Top:<br />

Lang<br />

by Martin Storey<br />

Knitted in Cashmere Tweed<br />

Opposite:<br />

Carron<br />

by Martin Storey<br />

Knitted in Cashmere Tweed<br />

16 ROWAN


NEW SEASON<br />

………………………<br />

Timeless<br />

Cocoon<br />

Designed by the <strong>Rowan</strong><br />

favourites, this is a truly versatile<br />

collection of six staple wardrobe<br />

pieces such as warming winter<br />

sweaters and a beautiful cabled<br />

wrap, all worked in the super soft<br />

Cocoon yarn.<br />

VIEW<br />

COLLECTION<br />

Top left:<br />

Nevada Scarf<br />

by Sarah Hatton<br />

Knitted in Cocoon<br />

Top right:<br />

Nieve Sweater<br />

by Sarah Hatton<br />

Knitted in Cocoon<br />

Opposite:<br />

Snowy Cardigan<br />

by Lisa Richardson<br />

Knitted in Cocoon<br />

AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />

17


NEW SEASON<br />

………………………<br />

Timeless<br />

DK<br />

Worked in the new Alpaca Soft<br />

DK yarn, this brochure showcases<br />

simple and clean silhouettes to<br />

suit any wardrobe. Designs range<br />

from simple cardigans to a roll<br />

neck sweater and a cabled jacket.<br />

VIEW<br />

COLLECTION<br />

Top:<br />

Nordea<br />

by Martin Storey<br />

Knitted in Alpaca Soft DK<br />

Opposite:<br />

Bibbi<br />

by Martin Storey<br />

Knitted in Alpaca Soft DK<br />

Opposite right:<br />

Stockholm<br />

by Martin Storey<br />

Knitted in Alpaca Soft DK<br />

18 ROWAN


NEW SEASON<br />

………………………<br />

Timeless<br />

Worsted<br />

Worked in the classic Pure Wool<br />

Superwash Worsted yarn, this<br />

collection of seven designs for<br />

women features easy-to-wear<br />

and versatile pieces ranging from<br />

a colour block sweater to a stylish<br />

cabled cardigan and a statement<br />

design using chequers and letters.<br />

VIEW<br />

COLLECTION<br />

Top left:<br />

Malmo<br />

by Martin Storey<br />

Knitted in Pure Wool Superwash<br />

Worsted<br />

Top right:<br />

Holm Cowl<br />

by Martin Storey<br />

Knitted in Pure Wool Superwash<br />

Worsted<br />

Opposite:<br />

<strong>Rowan</strong> Yarns Cardigan<br />

by Martin Storey<br />

Knitted in Pure Wool Superwash<br />

Worsted<br />

AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />

19


NEW SEASON<br />

………………………<br />

Valley<br />

Tweed<br />

This stunning collection of seven<br />

designs for women was designed<br />

using the brand new Valley Tweed<br />

yarn, sourced and spun near the<br />

home of <strong>Rowan</strong> in Huddersfield,<br />

Yorkshire. Rustic and timeless,<br />

pieces range from a striped wrap<br />

to a fairisle cropped jacket and a<br />

simple v-neck sweater.<br />

VIEW<br />

COLLECTION<br />

Holme<br />

by Lisa Richardson<br />

Knitted in Valley Tweed<br />

Opposite top:<br />

Bradfield Scarf<br />

by Lisa Richardson<br />

Knitted in Valley Tweed<br />

Opposite bottom:<br />

Colne<br />

by Lisa Richardson<br />

Knitted in Valley Tweed<br />

20 ROWAN


AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />

21


22 ROWAN


RETAILER<br />

FOCUS<br />

………………………<br />

Uncommon<br />

Threads<br />

USA<br />

Settled in the centre of Los Altos,<br />

California, a small city in the Silicon<br />

Valley region, surrounded by larger cities<br />

who boast businesses like Apple, Facebook<br />

and Google, Uncommon Threads is a yarn<br />

store whose roots are wider and deeper than<br />

its high-tech neighbours.<br />

Founded in the 1980s as a handweaving studio,<br />

Uncommon Threads added yarn and needlepoint<br />

over the following 30+ years to mirror their<br />

customers’ needs. The shop has consistently been a<br />

destination for yarn crafters in the community and<br />

beyond through mail order and consumer travel.<br />

Current owner Stephanie Hein purchased the store<br />

in 2009. Formerly a project manager for a webdesign<br />

firm, Stephanie was a long-time customer<br />

whose children had just started school and who was<br />

looking to fit a career that focused on creativity into<br />

her personal and professional life. The previous<br />

owner, Louise Spangler, was looking to retire and<br />

with an experienced staff, a supportive customer<br />

base and a wonderful location, the time was right<br />

for Stephanie to make her career change.<br />

Today, Uncommon Threads focuses on the current<br />

trends in knitting and crochet. Stephanie uses her<br />

sales floor wisely with fashionable sweater and<br />

accessory displays rotated throughout the seasons.<br />

This way, it is always the right time for customers<br />

to start a new project!<br />

The store’s class schedule highlights several skillbuilding<br />

classes to educate consumers about how<br />

to make their own sweaters. From beginning the<br />

sweater, to intermediate projects, including crochet,<br />

as well as following socks, KAL and CALs, and<br />

one-time small projects – the store is always busy<br />

with activity. Stephanie is also pleased to offer Amy<br />

Herzog’s Custom Fit pattern design system in her<br />

store, which allows customers to adjust patterns to<br />

their own measurements. Best of all, Uncommon<br />

Threads now offers weaving classes – truly returning<br />

to the roots of their store.<br />

Uncommon Threads was one of the first stores in<br />

North America to offer <strong>Rowan</strong> Yarns, appearing<br />

as a stockist in every <strong>Rowan</strong> Magazine since<br />

issue Number Four, when the store lists began.<br />

Stephanie continues to keep <strong>Rowan</strong> in the forefront<br />

at Uncommon Threads, noting the history of<br />

customer trust in the brand and the high level of<br />

anticipation each season for the new magazines.<br />

Her customers appreciate the timeless, yet current<br />

look of the designs, so that the knitter can feel good<br />

about wearing the garment for several years to<br />

come. Stephanie appreciates the wide coverage of<br />

design themes – women, men, children, accessories<br />

and home; as well as the current and upcoming<br />

designers such as Sarah Hatton, Martin Storey and<br />

Lisa Richardson, who set the forward trends for the<br />

yarn line.<br />

MORE INFO<br />

AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />

23


AUGUST’S<br />

MEMBERS PATTERN<br />

………………………<br />

Carlton<br />

By Marie Wallin<br />

Knitted in Felted Tweed Aran<br />

DOWNLOAD<br />

24 ROWAN


Upcoming in<br />

September &<br />

October<br />

SEPTEMBER’S<br />

MEMBERS PATTERN<br />

………………………<br />

Dawn<br />

By Martin Storey<br />

Knitted in Kid Classic<br />

OCTOBER’S<br />

MEMBERS PATTERN<br />

………………………<br />

Diffuse<br />

By Galina Carroll<br />

Knitted in Kidsilk Haze & Fine Lace<br />

AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />

25


BEHIND THE<br />

SCENES<br />

………………………<br />

Brierley Brothers<br />

By Sarah Brook<br />

Nestled just off the main<br />

ring road which snakes<br />

around the Yorkshire town<br />

of Huddersfield, Albert Mills<br />

is quite a formidable sight.<br />

Positioned alongside the fastflowing<br />

waters of the river<br />

Colne, the five storey stone<br />

mill sits proudly and boasts a<br />

rich heritage.<br />

Today, the building is home to<br />

Brierley Bros. Ltd, trading as<br />

Gardiner Yarns, a trusted spinner<br />

and distributor of wools from<br />

all over the world. The premises<br />

were built originally as a ‘woollen<br />

manufactory’ in 1863 and later the<br />

company incorporated in 1896<br />

in Huddersfield, West Yorkshire,<br />

a town renown for supply of the<br />

best quality textiles to the world.<br />

The highly successful spinning<br />

company Brierley Bros. Ltd is<br />

now one of the leading spinners<br />

of specialist woollen spun yarns<br />

in the United Kingdom. The<br />

company is proud to spin using<br />

only the finest wools and fibres<br />

and we are pleased to have<br />

sourced our recently-introduced<br />

Valley Tweed from here, just a<br />

few miles down the road from<br />

the <strong>Rowan</strong> design office.<br />

The process of creating the yarn<br />

you see today is one of many steps.<br />

Initially, when the raw material<br />

fleece arrives in Yorkshire, it must<br />

be scoured to remove the wool<br />

grease and other contamination<br />

then it is sorted into ‘types’ that<br />

are graded according to fibre<br />

thickness and fibre length. The<br />

most suitable fibres are then used<br />

for spinning the yarn.<br />

Individual yarn shades are<br />

colour matched in a laboratory<br />

combining many component<br />

shades of dyed fleece which are<br />

all skilfully blended together<br />

to make the final colour. The<br />

records of the percentages<br />

used are recorded so that it can<br />

be reproduced or tweaked, if<br />

necessary. Once this has been<br />

completed, the fibres are then<br />

blended in bulk batches before<br />

moving on to the carding<br />

machine stage.<br />

Complex, noisy and extremely<br />

dangerous in the wrong<br />

circumstances, the carding<br />

machine is responsible for<br />

mixing the blended fleece. The<br />

blend is dropped into a container<br />

set at a particular weight so it is<br />

only emptied onto a conveyor<br />

26 ROWAN


1<br />

2 3<br />

Photos by Charlotte Briggs<br />

belt once the required weight<br />

is reached where it is padded<br />

down allowing it to be fed<br />

onto the carding machine. The<br />

carding machine consists of a<br />

series of roller sets, upon which<br />

are sharp needles, which work<br />

the fleece mixing the blend and<br />

aligning the fibres into a web,<br />

first one way and then the other<br />

to mix it thoroughly. There are<br />

many rollers each with a name<br />

and particular function, such as<br />

‘workers’ and ‘strippers’. The<br />

positions of these rollers along<br />

with the weight of fleece fed into<br />

the machine must be adjusted<br />

accordingly to determine the<br />

thickness of the yarn. Carding<br />

engineers set gears on the<br />

machines to create different<br />

outcomes for different yarns,<br />

a skill which is also worked on<br />

manually with somebody with<br />

an extremely fine eye for detail<br />

and a lot of experience. At the<br />

end of the carding machine a fine<br />

web is formed, the tape rubbers<br />

into a machine which creates a<br />

‘slubbing’ resembling a yarn with<br />

no twist inserted. This is wound<br />

onto a package for onward<br />

process of the yarn. At this stage,<br />

there is no strength in the yarn<br />

and it can be easily pulled apart,<br />

therefore, if there are any faults<br />

at this point, the fibres can be reprocessed<br />

from the beginning.<br />

Finally, the fibre is ready to be<br />

spun. During this process, two<br />

wheels work simultaneously to<br />

‘draft’ the slubbing to even out<br />

the yarn thickness further and the<br />

difference in speed between the<br />

two wheels is used to determine<br />

AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />

1. Albert Mills<br />

2. Raw material ready for carding<br />

3. Carding machine<br />

27


Worker<br />

Worker<br />

Stripper<br />

Worker<br />

Stripper<br />

Fancy<br />

Doffer Comb<br />

Feed Rollers<br />

Uncarded Wool in<br />

Angle<br />

Stripper<br />

Cylinder/<br />

Swift<br />

Doffer<br />

Carded Wool out<br />

Taker in<br />

the level of draft of the yarn. The<br />

twist is inserted into the yarn<br />

as it is wound onto a package<br />

called a ‘spinning cop’ ready for<br />

the next production process. The<br />

twist level is determined by the<br />

different speeds between the<br />

drafting wheel and spinning cop.<br />

Meanwhile, a special technology<br />

called Neumafil is used to remove<br />

any breakages at the drafting<br />

process using air currents. This is<br />

then recovered and reprocessed.<br />

The yarn now has twist and is<br />

then wound onto cones from<br />

the spinning cops. The winding<br />

machine detects any knots and<br />

faults, removing them. The<br />

cones then need to be steamed<br />

to set and straighten the yarn.<br />

Each steam cycle is 45 minutes<br />

long and the machines used are<br />

simple, the container containing<br />

the cones is wheeled in and<br />

the doors are closed to start the<br />

process.<br />

The single end of spun yarn is<br />

then folded together to achieve<br />

the required knitting weight,<br />

washed and wound onto either<br />

hanks, ball or doughnuts to<br />

create the yarns which we see<br />

available in stores world-wide,<br />

all processed and engineered in<br />

Yorkshire.<br />

Watch out for Valley Tweed<br />

in your LYS, you will see a<br />

wonderful tweedy effect created<br />

by nepps of colour, harder<br />

particles which stand up more<br />

to processing and so create the<br />

beautiful flecks you will see.<br />

MORE INFO<br />

28 ROWAN


AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />

29


TRENDS<br />

………………………<br />

<strong>Autumn</strong><br />

Winter <strong>2017</strong><br />

By Katie Calvert<br />

30 ROWAN


Knitwear is the main staple<br />

of a winter wardrobe. A<br />

knitted garment rests on the<br />

body, enveloping it and is worn,<br />

by some, as a simple requirement<br />

to keep warm. But we know that<br />

our dedicated <strong>Rowan</strong> knitter<br />

treats their treasured pieces as<br />

something much more than<br />

that. When you have invested<br />

your time knitting a garment, or<br />

accessory, so that it feels uniquely<br />

yours, you want to be able to<br />

wear it as much as possible, and<br />

not always in the same way. This<br />

season, <strong>Rowan</strong>’s Dawn Till Dusk<br />

designs are enlivened by their<br />

versatility and ability to be styled<br />

in a number of ways.<br />

Dawn Till Dusk, in magazine<br />

62, has been designed with<br />

a flexibility which suits any<br />

wardrobe and anyone’s personal<br />

style. It is about tailored knitwear<br />

…………………………<br />

Breakthrough knitwear<br />

trends include cable knits,<br />

stripes, polo necks and<br />

oversized styles,<br />

…………………………<br />

that can take you smoothly from<br />

the office and then to evening<br />

drinks. Or slouchy knitwear that<br />

can be worn as a cover-up over<br />

a multitude of outfits be they<br />

daytime or evening styles. The<br />

aspiration is that these pieces can<br />

take you through the day from<br />

dawn until dusk, hence the name.<br />

Many of the garments and<br />

accessories echo autumn winter<br />

trends for <strong>2017</strong>. Breakthrough<br />

knitwear trends include cable<br />

knits, stripes, polo necks and<br />

oversized styles, whilst fashion<br />

trends such as embellishment,<br />

unusual sleeves, the colour<br />

red and the resurgence of the<br />

cardigan are also realised. As<br />

a versatile story with flexible<br />

styling techniques, much of<br />

Dawn Till Dusk’s designs feature<br />

a plethora of these trends, which<br />

can be styled in various ways<br />

alongside the looks that you see<br />

in the magazine.<br />

At Sonia Rykiel, whose<br />

eponymous designer was dubbed<br />

the ‘Queen of Knits’, oversized<br />

cable knits, enhanced by wide<br />

necks, were styled with polo<br />

necks. At Louis Vuitton, polo<br />

necks were the essential item,<br />

paired with frills. Dawn Till Dusk<br />

may not feature any knitted polo<br />

necks, but Lisa Richardson’s<br />

styling has certainly referenced it.<br />

Sunset, with its oversized shape,<br />

designed by Marie Wallin, has<br />

a wide neck. This allows for a<br />

polo neck to stand out without<br />

detracting from the delicate<br />

cabling detail along the front of<br />

the garment and on the sleeves.<br />

It has been knitted in Liqueur,<br />

a lovely deep red shade, in firm<br />

favourite Kidsilk Haze. There<br />

aren’t many trends that this<br />

design doesn’t feature, with the<br />

ability to embellish always a<br />

possibility. But none of it is one<br />

trend too far! Instead, Sunset is a<br />

delicate, eye-catching piece that<br />

can be worked for day, whether<br />

Top:<br />

Sonia Rykiel<br />

Courtesy of www.vogue.co.uk<br />

Louis Vuitton<br />

Courtesy of www.vogue.co.uk<br />

Opposite right:<br />

Sunset<br />

by Marie Wallin<br />

Knitted in Kidsilk Haze<br />

Knitting & Crochet Magazine 62<br />

AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />

31


as office wear or as something<br />

more casual, illustrated in the<br />

photo shoot, or layered over an<br />

evening outfit for extra warmth.<br />

The subtle detail and wide neck,<br />

mixed with a rich shade perfectly<br />

demonstrates why Dawn Till<br />

Dusk is so adaptable without<br />

taking away from the passion<br />

that has gone into making such a<br />

treasured piece.<br />

Mellow, by Sarah Hatton, is<br />

another featured oversized knit,<br />

which also fits into the cable<br />

trend. Its wide front enfolds the<br />

body, enabling you to wear it from<br />

day to night, in informal or formal<br />

social occasions. Paired with<br />

Dusty Scarf by Martin Storey, you<br />

can sense that feeling of warm<br />

cosiness emanating from the pages<br />

of the <strong>Rowan</strong> magazine.<br />

Sleeves have taken an unusual<br />

turn this season, with some<br />

intertwining with the oversized<br />

trend. Protruding arms at<br />

Burberry and ribbed effects<br />

at Prabal Gurung emphasise<br />

the absurd. <strong>Rowan</strong> showcases<br />

more wearable versions that<br />

are, nonetheless, intriguing.<br />

Alongside Sunset, Evening and<br />

…………………………<br />

Sleeves have taken an<br />

unusual turn this season,<br />

with some intertwining<br />

with the oversided trend.<br />

…………………………<br />

Nightfall, both by Martin Storey,<br />

feature subtly billowing sleeves.<br />

Evening’s shorter design means<br />

that it works well contrasted<br />

Above:<br />

Prada<br />

Courtesy of www.vogue.co.uk<br />

Above left:<br />

Nightfall<br />

by Martin Storey<br />

Knitted in Kid Classic<br />

Knitting & Crochet Magazine 62<br />

32 ROWAN


with a longer sleeved garment.<br />

Nightfall, with its on-trend<br />

embellishment and long length,<br />

diverts the eye away from the<br />

delicate detail towards the more<br />

unlikely source of inspiration, the<br />

sleeve. Both designs are simple in<br />

essence, paired or layered with<br />

any number of garments, yet they<br />

stand out in their own right.<br />

The embellished trend, seen<br />

at Prada, works not only for<br />

eveningwear but, by making<br />

the choice to knit in softer<br />

hues, it becomes relevant for<br />

daywear. Eventide by Lisa<br />

Richardson has been knitted in<br />

Kid Classic’s Feather shade. The<br />

embellishment gives it a ‘wow’<br />

factor, whilst the shade makes<br />

it the perfect accompaniment<br />

either over jeans and a top,<br />

or layered over something<br />

smarter and more elegant, as<br />

demonstrated in the magazine<br />

by Lisa Richardson. Eventide’s<br />

length is also significant. It has<br />

been a while since long length<br />

cardigans have been seen on the<br />

catwalk. But, this season, they<br />

are back, with designer brands<br />

Trussardi and Chloé wearing<br />

them casually. At <strong>Rowan</strong>, our<br />

designers have shown how the<br />

long length cardigan is more<br />

versatile than this with simple<br />

details such as embellishment<br />

or unique sleeve shapes helping<br />

to do this. Although Lisa<br />

Richardson’s favourite garment<br />

is Twilight for its mix of yarns<br />

which make it very lightweight<br />

yet super cosy, she plans to knit<br />

Eventide<br />

by Lisa Richardson<br />

Knitted in Kid Classic<br />

Knitting & Crochet Magazine 62<br />

AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />

33


Gloaming first. Lisa knows, that<br />

as a staple piece of anyone’s<br />

wardrobe, she can wear this long<br />

length cardigan with everything.<br />

She plans to style it with a polo<br />

neck, slim trousers and Chelsea<br />

boots, adding a belt for definition.<br />

Stripes are often a popular<br />

trend and <strong>Rowan</strong> has been sure<br />

to include it. Eve, by Jennie<br />

Atkinson, with its wrap detail,<br />

hugs the body. When designing<br />

the garment, Jennie envisioned a<br />

piece of knitwear that, by using<br />

the long ties, could be converted<br />

from a loose, casual cover-up,<br />

worn over a dress or jeans, into<br />

a smarter top, tied to define the<br />

waist, that could be worn over<br />

loose-fit trousers or a long, slim<br />

skirt. However you choose to<br />

wear it, Eve stands out for its bold<br />

stripes and delicate neckline.<br />

There are two further designs<br />

which express the stripes trend<br />

using a knitting technique.<br />

Daybreak and Subdued’s rib<br />

detail lends itself to subtle<br />

striping, whether purposefully<br />

or not. Subdued also has unusual<br />

sleeve detail around the wrist,<br />

highlighting even more how on<br />

trend <strong>Rowan</strong> is, whilst never<br />

forgetting the need to create<br />

something timeless. Emma<br />

Wright, who designed Subdued,<br />

…………………………<br />

Stripes are often a<br />

popular trend and <strong>Rowan</strong><br />

has been sure to include<br />

it.<br />

…………………………<br />

imagines her design styled with a<br />

fitted denim mini skirt and a long<br />

sleeved top underneath, allowing<br />

a pop of colour to peek through.<br />

Tights are also a must. Layering,<br />

as obvious as it sounds, is a strong<br />

Top Left:<br />

Trussardi<br />

Courtesy of www.vogue.co.uk<br />

Top Right<br />

Chloe<br />

Courtesy of www.vogue.co.uk<br />

Opposite:<br />

Eve<br />

by Jennie Atkinson<br />

Knitted in Alpaca Merino DK<br />

Knitting & Crochet Magazine 62<br />

34 ROWAN


AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />

35


Prabal Gurung<br />

Courtesy of www.vogue.co.uk<br />

Opposite page:<br />

Evening<br />

by Martin Storey<br />

Knitted in Kid Classic<br />

Knitting & Crochet Magazine 62<br />

trend for this autumn winter.<br />

Choose to do what Emma would<br />

do for day or add an embellished<br />

knit for night. Having the choice<br />

to layer means having the choice<br />

to wear more than one favourite<br />

piece of clothing. It might sound<br />

simple, but it always works. This<br />

choice of styling by Emma lends<br />

itself well to other trends too.<br />

Oversized earrings are huge this<br />

season, the bigger the better to<br />

add a real statement.<br />

…………………………<br />

Layering, as obvious as it<br />

sounds, is a strong trend<br />

for this autumn winter.<br />

…………………………<br />

As for colour, the design team<br />

at <strong>Rowan</strong> has chosen a classic<br />

mix of blues and creams,<br />

alongside strong jewel tones.<br />

One of these, red, has been a<br />

firm favourite on the catwalk.<br />

However, never forget that,<br />

just as the shade chosen for the<br />

photo shoot garment rests with<br />

the designer, the colour of your<br />

finished piece is chosen by you,<br />

the <strong>Rowan</strong> knitter. You might<br />

prefer something subtle, such as<br />

a light blue that suits many of<br />

your outfits, or you may go for<br />

something much bolder. The<br />

beauty of a <strong>Rowan</strong> design, and<br />

of this story, is the choice that<br />

you have in creating your desired<br />

piece of knitwear.<br />

We can’t forget accessories.<br />

During the day in winter, the<br />

knitted scarf is everywhere. But<br />

for an evening out you might<br />

think that choosing something<br />

more delicate is more suitable. In<br />

order to make your knitted scarf<br />

desirable for evening, finer yarns,<br />

such as Fine Lace and Kidsilk<br />

Haze, have been selected by<br />

our designers, or embellishment<br />

has been added to give it a<br />

sophisticated feel for evening.<br />

The word ‘timeless’ can be<br />

banded about too readily, but<br />

when garments are so well<br />

designed that they gravitate<br />

successfully from one season to<br />

another, incorporated into trends<br />

that keep on changing, the term<br />

is eminently suitable. Dawn Till<br />

Dusk designs are just that. These<br />

timeless pieces incorporate some<br />

of this season’s trends but, more<br />

importantly, as trends evolve<br />

and styles change, they have the<br />

flexibility to move with these<br />

changes, offering alternative<br />

looks to what is already available.<br />

36 ROWAN


AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />

37


RETAILER<br />

FOCUS<br />

………………………<br />

Black Sheep<br />

Wools<br />

UK<br />

“Black Sheep Wools are proud to announce that<br />

our award winning Craft Barn, in Warrington, is<br />

now THE <strong>Rowan</strong> flagship store of the North West.<br />

We have a dazzling display of all of <strong>Rowan</strong>’s yarn<br />

and books nestled within the Craft Barn and you<br />

can snuggle up on the sofa in the cosy corner and<br />

soak up the inspiration for your next project.<br />

Another new addition will be our instore <strong>Rowan</strong><br />

Consultant Melanie Boocock. Melanie has been a<br />

<strong>Rowan</strong> workshop tutor for many years and we are<br />

delighted that she will be joining us as our <strong>Rowan</strong><br />

Design Consultant. Melanie will be in store two<br />

days a week to advise and help with all your <strong>Rowan</strong><br />

queries.<br />

On 30th September, we will be hosting a special<br />

launch event to celebrate this great new addition.<br />

Two of <strong>Rowan</strong>’s finest designers, Martin Storey and<br />

Lisa Richardson will join us for the day to share<br />

their passion and expertise. There will be goody bags<br />

for the first 20 customers, a charity raffle, glasses of<br />

bubbly, and lots of yarn to squish and admire! We’d<br />

love you to join us.”<br />

Click the button below for more information.<br />

MORE INFO<br />

38 ROWAN


AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />

39


INTERVIEW<br />

………………………<br />

Royal College<br />

of Art Students<br />

40 ROWAN


We talked to promising Royal College of Art Students<br />

Beth Ranson and Winnie Yeung about their first year<br />

of study and why they decided to work with <strong>Rowan</strong> yarns on<br />

their portfolio.<br />

What is the inspiration behind the collection?<br />

Beth - The inspiration behind the sourcing of my materials is most<br />

important to my practice. I follow a sustainable, responsible design<br />

ethos that explores the most creative ways of excelling in using zero<br />

waste production methods, using closed loop design processes and<br />

making everything I create with natural materials and natural dyes. I<br />

create all my colour palettes using natural dyes and every project I do<br />

incorporates this research led process.<br />

Everything I knit is inspired by my drawings and collages. Visually, I<br />

am inspired by my own photographs taken from travelling around the<br />

UK and Europe, little snap shots of details that aren’t too obvious but<br />

they inspire surface pattern, texture and colour ideas. I always love to<br />

draw.<br />

Nostalgia also has a key role in my practice. Childhood photos inspire<br />

silhouette and garment ideas, colour palettes and trim details for<br />

every sample I knit. I try to achieve a balance of contemporary design<br />

and beguiling nostalgia. Preservation of memories translates to the<br />

creation of luxury knitted samples and garments.<br />

Winnie - My main inspiration is mainly from Braille. I use to attend<br />

a project which was about how blind people see, feel and create art.<br />

It touched me and I think art is not the privilege for just sighted<br />

people but also for those people who cannot see. Thus when I am<br />

designing my art work I usually put my effort both into the texture<br />

and colour of my pieces. Moreover, I used a piece of research about<br />

the link between tactile impression and colour, for example, for most<br />

people fluffy texture reminds them of the colour yellow. The purpose<br />

of this research is to let blind people feel the colour from touches in<br />

their mind.<br />

Opposite:<br />

Naturaly dyed samples with Kidsilk<br />

Haze and cashmere blends<br />

by Beth Ranson<br />

What led you to choose <strong>Rowan</strong> yarns for the project?<br />

Beth - My sustainably led process focuses on the use of natural,<br />

compostable fibres. <strong>Rowan</strong> yarns were therefore an obvious choice.<br />

I use natural coloured yarns and dye them with natural dyes such as<br />

home grown Woad and Weld leaves, and food waste such as Avocado<br />

stones and onion skins.<br />

To create the blurry texture changes and soft luxurious contrasts<br />

within my collection I chose to knit with Kidsilk Haze. The 100%<br />

natural yarn is a beautiful texture, and once knitted can be brushed<br />

to create areas of extreme delicacy. <strong>Rowan</strong> is one of only a few<br />

companies that makes a 100% natural kid/silk mix yarn, as often they<br />

are mixed with a man made fibre to strengthen them and this means<br />

they cannot be used within my natural palette. Kidsilk Haze is the<br />

AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />

41


perfect component for every single sample I knit and I can’t imagine<br />

any of my samples looking complete without it.<br />

Winnie - I first used <strong>Rowan</strong> yarns for an art project four years ago<br />

and the main reason for me is because <strong>Rowan</strong> has the best reputation<br />

in this field with its use of natural fibres in its range. The reason for<br />

me to keep using it for the last four years is because <strong>Rowan</strong> gives me<br />

the range of choice from the texture, colour and size of the wool and<br />

yarn to fit my projects; also the quality of the wool or yarn is the best<br />

compared to what I have used before.<br />

How was it to visit Pitti (International trade fair for knitting yarns)?<br />

Beth - Visiting Pitti was such a brilliant experience! I was lucky<br />

enough to be able to visit some appointments with the head of<br />

The RCA Yarn Resource, and she was so generous in sharing her<br />

knowledge with us and teaching us whilst we were there. Learning<br />

about the creation methods and origins of so many raw materials and<br />

yarns was super interesting, and I hope I to go back again in January!<br />

The inspiration gained for my collection was a little overwhelming,<br />

as there were so many beautiful yarns, so it will be really exciting<br />

designing my final collection with all these options in mind.<br />

Winnie - My recent visit to Pitti provided me with a lot of<br />

information on what types of yarn are going to be trending next<br />

season and also gave me the chance to meet the manufacturers of<br />

those yarns to broaden my personal contacts.<br />

What does the second year at the RCA hold for you?<br />

Beth - My first year was spent exploring the potential of my theory<br />

of sustainable knitted textiles design, and researching a lot to push<br />

the boundaries of what I could achieve. My second year will see<br />

this research and experimentation culminate in more defined ideas,<br />

realised in final knitted samples and garments. I hope that this year I<br />

will continue to learn, but I will also be able to put my knowledge<br />

into my own unique practice and truly define my own aesthetic and<br />

ethos.<br />

I hope to continue to run my Natural Dye Workshops, have a really<br />

successful exhibition at the end of the year and eventually publish my<br />

book on using natural dyes within knitted textiles design… a draft of<br />

which I am already working on!<br />

Collaboration with Marianne Bauer<br />

and product designers Katrine<br />

Hesseldahl and Victor Strimfors.<br />

Yarns sponsored by <strong>Rowan</strong>.<br />

Exhibition at Royal College of Arts<br />

Show <strong>2017</strong>.<br />

by Winnie Yeung<br />

What support and recognition have you received for your work at the RCA?<br />

Beth - I was awarded a Company Award from the Worshipful<br />

Company of Haberdashers, in recognition for their view of my<br />

potential within the textiles industry. This was hugely encouraging<br />

for me. The bursary I was awarded means I will be able to order some<br />

of the amazing yarns I saw at Pitti, which is exciting!<br />

42 ROWAN


Winnie - I have won Bradford Textile Awards:The Clothworkers’<br />

Foundation Award, UK <strong>2017</strong> 1st Prize and The Woolmark Company<br />

Award, UK <strong>2017</strong> 2nd Prize (by using the <strong>Rowan</strong> alpaca yarns).<br />

How would you describe your first year?<br />

Beth - Overwhelming, challenging and totally inspiring. I haven’t<br />

yet produced anything that is complete because I am constantly<br />

encouraged to question an challenge my ideas and concepts. This first<br />

year forced me to elevate my work and justifications for it to the<br />

next level and I am now really excited to see how much more I can<br />

develop next year. This first year has provided the groundwork for<br />

what will hopefully be a creatively defining year for everyone in our<br />

year group.<br />

Winnie - The first year of study at RCA is basically an adaptive phase<br />

of my textile design. During the last four years, I have tried a lot of<br />

different projects to find the one that suited me the best. In this case, I<br />

focused on interior design and I used knitted textiles to decorate the<br />

sofa. Also, I tried to distinguish which knit patterns could be done by<br />

knitting machine and what has to be knitted by hand to create my<br />

unique pattern.<br />

AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />

43


FEATURE<br />

………………………<br />

Crochet Club Giveaway<br />

- Knit for Peace<br />

Jane Crowfoot<br />

‘Crochet Along’ or ‘CAL’<br />

A project is a much-liked<br />

concept and the impact of them<br />

has had a massive effect on the<br />

popularity of the craft over the<br />

last 5 years. CAL projects usually<br />

run over the course of a few<br />

weeks or months and offer the<br />

(often solitary) home crocheter<br />

the chance to work through a<br />

project in bite size pieces. As you<br />

may be aware, we are now part<br />

way through our Lisa Richardson<br />

Crochet Along <strong>2017</strong>, a beautiful<br />

blanket using Felted Tweed.<br />

By working through a CAL<br />

project, crocheters are not only<br />

given the chance to learn new<br />

techniques and increase their<br />

skills, but, in many cases, they can<br />

also engage in on-line discussions<br />

and form new friendships by<br />

working alongside others in<br />

virtual groups via personal blogs<br />

and social media platforms like<br />

Facebook and Instagram. Crochet<br />

is recognised as a therapeutic and<br />

cerebral activity, encouraging<br />

44 ROWAN<br />

hand eye coordination and the<br />

use of the left side of the brain.<br />

Jane Crowfoot designed and<br />

released her first limited edition<br />

CAL project in 2011 when<br />

crochet along projects were few<br />

and far between. Jane continued<br />

to release limited edition CAL<br />

projects via her exclusive<br />

‘Crochet Club’ label until<br />

2014. All Jane’s Crochet Along<br />

projects included yarns from the<br />

<strong>Rowan</strong> range and Jane designed<br />

the projects to push the skill<br />

levels of crocheters in order to<br />

create fabulous crochet throws/<br />

hangings.<br />

Since 2014, Jane has gone on to<br />

design many crochet projects for<br />

the home and is well recognised<br />

within the craft field for her use<br />

of colour and technique, indeed<br />

<strong>2017</strong> has seen her recognized<br />

as Motivational Designer of the<br />

Year within The British Craft<br />

Awards and as runner-up in the<br />

Favourite Crochet Designer of


2013 Complete Blanket<br />

by Jane Crowfoot<br />

Opposite Page:<br />

Bloomsbury Garden.<br />

the Year Category in the British<br />

Knitting and Crochet Awards.<br />

Jane’s Crochet Club projects are<br />

massively sought after, as they<br />

were released as limited edition<br />

kits and are no longer available.<br />

Jane and her studio team are<br />

asked for kits and patterns for<br />

past clubs on a daily basis, but<br />

kits rarely become available and<br />

the patterns are now archived, so<br />

those seeking kits are often left<br />

disapointed. However, Jane has<br />

recently been given a complete<br />

kit for the 2013 Crochet Club<br />

project which she has decided to<br />

offer as a prize giveaway in order<br />

to raise funds for Knit For Peace,<br />

a charity that supports needy and<br />

vulnerable people all over the<br />

world through knit and crochet<br />

projects and initiatives.<br />

The kit, which includes 31 balls of<br />

<strong>Rowan</strong> Cotton Glacé and 3 bags<br />

of Debbie Abrahams knitting<br />

beads, originally belonged to<br />

Crochet Club member Sally<br />

Smith who sadly passed away<br />

recently. Sally’s sister Jayne has<br />

very kindly agreed that the kit<br />

can be raffled in Sally’s memory,<br />

so, to be in with a chance of<br />

winning the kit, which also<br />

comes with the PDF download<br />

patterns, all you need to do is go<br />

onto the Knit For Peace website<br />

and follow the link to make a<br />

monetary donation. A donation<br />

of just £2 counts as a raffle entry,<br />

but you can pledge however<br />

much you would like to and<br />

you can enter the draw as many<br />

times as you want, with each<br />

individual donation counting<br />

as one entry. The raffle runs for<br />

four weeks between August<br />

7th and September 4 th and the<br />

winner will be notified later on<br />

in September.<br />

We are sure that this will be an<br />

incredibly popular raffle prize<br />

and hope that the draw will raise<br />

lots of money for this worthy<br />

charity, however, if you would<br />

rather not enter, or are not lucky<br />

enough to be the winner of<br />

the project pack, then you may<br />

be interested to know that Jane<br />

will be releasing an exciting new<br />

design, which features yarns from<br />

the <strong>Rowan</strong> range, later on this<br />

year. We are also looking forward<br />

to seeing more of her work using<br />

our yarns in 2018….watch this<br />

space!<br />

KNIT FOR PEACE<br />

AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />

45


Lisa Richardson<br />

Crochet Along <strong>2017</strong><br />

Release 4<br />

We are now into the fourth stage of our<br />

fabulous Felted Tweed blanket Crochet Along!<br />

For those of you who have joined us on this<br />

colourful journey, don’t forget to update us on<br />

your progress on our Facebook and Instagram<br />

pages!<br />

Missed the start? Don’t worry, there’s still plenty of<br />

time to catch up. Download the shopping list here!<br />

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46 ROWAN


AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />

47


48 ROWAN


Tips & Techniques<br />

………………………<br />

How to Two<br />

Colour Fairisle<br />

by Katherine Lymer<br />

Thackerey Scarf<br />

by Martin Storey<br />

Knitted in Felted Tweed<br />

Knitting & Crochet Magazine 62<br />

Fairisle knitting is a form of<br />

stranded knitting where different<br />

coloured yarns can be worked at<br />

any point on the row (as set by the<br />

pattern) and the yarn not in use is<br />

carried, or “stranded”, across the<br />

back of the work. Traditionally<br />

worked in the round, traditional<br />

fairisle is unique from other<br />

stranded fairisle knitting as it<br />

only uses two colours in one<br />

round (or row) and its designs<br />

include diagonal lines – hence<br />

our familiarity with such patterns<br />

as Norwegian stars, used to such<br />

beautiful effect in “Kintyre” from<br />

Magazine 52.<br />

Fairisle knitting is best worked<br />

with one ball of yarn in each hand:<br />

It helps the stranded yarn to lie<br />

flat and prevents the balls of wool<br />

from tangling around each other.<br />

Knitters who mainly work the<br />

“English way” (using their right<br />

hand to hold the working needle<br />

and throw the yarn) may find<br />

holding the yarn in their left hand<br />

awkward. Ditto for “continental<br />

AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />

knitters” unused to holding yarn<br />

in their right hand. To overcome<br />

this, try knitting a swatch, in a<br />

single colour using your “other<br />

hand” (so “continentally” if<br />

you’re usually an “English knitter”<br />

and vice versa if not) - without<br />

worrying about tension and<br />

colour changes. If you’re going to<br />

be working in the round, where<br />

you only need to knit to create<br />

stocking-stitch fabric, work your<br />

flat swatch in garter stitch. If,<br />

however, knitting plain swatches<br />

isn’t your cup of tea and you’d<br />

like to practise all the techniques<br />

described below, consider a small<br />

project, such as Martin Storey’s<br />

“Snowflake Coaster” from his<br />

timeless “Nordic Knits” collection.<br />

When you’re ready to work in<br />

two colours, hold the main colour<br />

yarn in your most familiar hand<br />

to help create a smooth, even<br />

fabric with any discrepancies in<br />

tension – arising from the newer<br />

method of knitting – restricted to<br />

the fewer, contrast-colour stitches.<br />

49


a<br />

b<br />

A traditional fairisle pattern will<br />

have frequent changes between<br />

the two colours, thus producing<br />

short strands (or “floats”) that<br />

are neatly locked into the work.<br />

Where the pattern requires long<br />

sections of one colour, it may be<br />

necessary to weave-in the yarn<br />

not in use to prevent creation of<br />

long strands that are easy to catch<br />

and pull. The exact number of<br />

stitches in a run of a single colour<br />

is largely influenced by the type of<br />

wool being worked: For example,<br />

100% Shetland wool is “sticky”<br />

enough to permit stranding over<br />

seven stitches. When knitting<br />

with <strong>Rowan</strong> yarns, our advice is<br />

not to strand over more than four<br />

or five stitches.<br />

a<br />

b<br />

c<br />

Knit weaving LH colour<br />

a. LH thrown<br />

b. LH + RH thrown<br />

c. Weave complete<br />

Following the strictest definition<br />

of fairisle knitting, we would<br />

work in the round - enjoying<br />

the usual advantages of circular<br />

knitting: increased speed of<br />

work and even tension by only<br />

working the knit stitch, rightside<br />

of the fabric always facing us<br />

and elimination of seams - so any<br />

weaving would be worked with<br />

knitted stitches: To weave-in<br />

the colour held in our left hand<br />

(LH), insert the right-hand (RH)<br />

needle into the next stitch on the<br />

LH needle as if to knit. Raise the<br />

LH colour to lie across the back<br />

of the RH needle and throw the<br />

RH colour over RH needle in<br />

the usual way: The LH colour<br />

will be caught in the back of the<br />

new stitch.<br />

c<br />

d<br />

Knit weaving RH colour<br />

a. RH thrown<br />

b. RH + LH thrown<br />

c. LH thrown + RH undone<br />

d. Weave complete<br />

50 ROWAN


a<br />

To weave-in the RH colour,<br />

insert the RH needle into the<br />

next stitch on the LH needle as if<br />

to knit and throw the RH colour<br />

over the RH needle as normal.<br />

Pluck the LH colour over the<br />

RH needle. “Undo” the RH<br />

colour by pulling it to the back<br />

of the needle: The RH colour<br />

will be caught in the back of the<br />

new stitch.<br />

a<br />

b<br />

c<br />

Purl weaving LH colour<br />

a. LH thrown<br />

b. LH + RH thrown<br />

c. Weave complete<br />

However, if we want to work<br />

back-and-forth, to create a flat<br />

piece of fabric, (to create, for<br />

example, “Fishlake” from Mag.<br />

62), we need to be able to purl<br />

and weave-in when working two<br />

balls of wool. To weave-in the<br />

LH colour when purling, insert<br />

the RH needle into the next<br />

stitch on the LH needle to purl<br />

as normal. Raise the LH colour<br />

over the front of the RH needle<br />

and across the top of the LH<br />

needle. Throw the RH colour in<br />

the usual way to form the new<br />

purl stitch, catching with it the<br />

LH colour.<br />

b<br />

c<br />

To weave-in the RH colour<br />

when purling, we follow a similar<br />

process of “undoing” as when<br />

knitting: Insert the RH needle<br />

into the next stitch on the LH<br />

needle as if to purl and throw the<br />

RH colour under and around<br />

the needle (i.e. in the opposite<br />

way to normal). Pluck the LH<br />

colour over the top of the RH<br />

needle (as normal). “Undo” the<br />

RH colour and form the new<br />

purl stitch as normal, catching<br />

with it the LH colour.<br />

d<br />

Purl weaving RH colour<br />

a. RH thrown the wrong way<br />

b. RH + LH thrown<br />

c. LH thrown + RH undone<br />

d. Weave complete<br />

AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />

51


Knitters new to Fairisle may find<br />

tension changes over the stranded<br />

sections, leading to tight, inelastic<br />

and uneven colour work. This<br />

is often due to over-tightening<br />

the strands, crushing the stitches<br />

in-between and preventing the<br />

fabric – and pattern – sitting<br />

properly in the round (or row).<br />

The traditional diagonal designs<br />

are not just aesthetically pleasing<br />

but are created with this problem<br />

in mind: By varying the positions<br />

of the colour changes, these<br />

inherent points of tension are<br />

distributed across the rounds,<br />

rather than forming straight,<br />

unyielding columns of colour.<br />

loose!) by regularly reviewing our<br />

work while knitting each round<br />

(or row) and, where necessary,<br />

easing the working yarns through<br />

the fabric to remove any slack or<br />

tightness. If the tension between<br />

the stranded and non-stranded<br />

knitting remains uneven, it<br />

might also be helpful to change<br />

needle size for the colour work<br />

section(s). However, the relaxed,<br />

repetitive actions that come<br />

with a technique well-practised,<br />

should allow for the creation of<br />

an even, elastic fabric.<br />

Fishlake<br />

by Marie Wallin<br />

Knitted in Felted Tweed<br />

Knitting & Crochet Magazine 62<br />

Practically, a more even fabric<br />

can be created by ensuring that<br />

our strands are loose (but not too<br />

52 ROWAN


R O W A N<br />

S E L E C T S<br />

r o wa n finest<br />

6 designs for women<br />

by Martin Storey,<br />

Sarah Hatton & Amy Herzog<br />

using ROWAN Selects<br />

ROWAN Finest.<br />

Available now from your<br />

ROWAN stockist.<br />

MORE INFO<br />

AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />

53


THIS SEASON<br />

WE LOVE<br />

………………………<br />

Fruity Knitting<br />

We caught up with the brilliant Andrea<br />

Doig, half of popular duo Fruity<br />

Knitting, about her podcasts and knitting<br />

background.<br />

Tell us a little bit about yourself<br />

Andrew (my husband) and I are Australians and<br />

have been living in Germany for 18 years now.<br />

We live in Offenbach (close to Frankfurt) with<br />

our daughter Madeleine and our dog Jack, both of<br />

whom regularly appear on the podcast. We released<br />

Episode 1 in March 2016 and as I write this we’re<br />

about to release Episode 34. I did a degree in<br />

Music Performance and taught piano and singing<br />

for many years as well as regularly performing as a<br />

singer. I come from a very crafty family, was taught<br />

to knit around 6 years old and was knitting fairly<br />

involved garments already in my early teens. I love<br />

to knit and compared to other things that I’ve done<br />

in my life, I find knitting very easy and relaxing.<br />

Andrew is a beginner knitter, having started to knit<br />

a little over a year ago. He is definitely more of an<br />

academic than someone who likes to work with<br />

his hands, so he does find learning new techniques<br />

challenging. I think he does brilliantly and I love to<br />

‘throw him in the deep end’ with a new technique.<br />

He is presently knitting Brioche.<br />

Why did you decide to start your Fruity<br />

Knitting podcasts and what were your aims<br />

for it in the beginning?<br />

Around 3 years ago I was having problems with<br />

my voice that meant I couldn’t sing for a while.<br />

This was extremely distressing for me so to distract<br />

myself I started to knit more intensively. When I do<br />

something I often delve into it rather intensively and<br />

learn as much as I can about whatever I’m focusing<br />

on. So during this time I was always searching<br />

for documentaries on knitting or interviews with<br />

really great designers, anything informative about<br />

the craft of knitting. I didn’t know about knitting<br />

podcasts. I found some short films on Shetland<br />

knitting, a couple of short interviews with Kaffe<br />

Fassett but not much else.<br />

I then thought, wouldn’t it be cool to have a knitting<br />

channel which featured the kind of informative<br />

interviews that I was really looking for. Andrew<br />

then came on board, because it’s always much more<br />

54 ROWAN


fun to do things together than alone. Our aim<br />

was to produce an informative and entertaining<br />

program about the craft of knitting. I go into a lot of<br />

depth about knitting techniques as an experienced<br />

knitter and Andrew acts as encouragement to other<br />

beginners as he laughs his way through struggling<br />

with magic looping, 2 handed fairisle and now<br />

Brioche. Our guests are a big part of our show. We<br />

try to cover every part of the knitting and fibre<br />

world, from designers and very talented knitters to<br />

yarn producers and experts on sheep and fiber. I<br />

always try to organise each segment of our show to<br />

be as content rich as possible (but still entertaining)<br />

so that our viewers feel they learn something new<br />

every episode. That was our aim from the beginning<br />

and we try to improve with every episode.<br />

You have now released over thirty podcasts<br />

on YouTube, what have been the highlights of<br />

your journey so far?<br />

We have two major segments in each episode.<br />

One of them is ‘Knitters of the World’ where we<br />

feature very talented but amateur knitters. It has<br />

been a huge joy to bring these knitters into the<br />

limelight to show off their amazing knitting to an<br />

audience of thousands. The second major segment<br />

is the interview. In preparing for the interviews I<br />

have been able to meet some amazing experts in<br />

the knitting and fiber world. I never take this for<br />

granted and feel very privileged to have this direct<br />

contact. It spurs me on to prepare the best interview<br />

that I can with them. Some of these people are not<br />

only very knowledgeable experts but are incredibly<br />

interesting and inspiring people. I am often on a<br />

high after having done an interview.<br />

It has also been wonderful to receive feedback from<br />

our viewers that we have inspired them to take on<br />

new challenges with their knitting, like knitting<br />

a garment for the first time or trying out colour<br />

work and most recently cutting and grafting their<br />

knitting to fix mistakes.<br />

What is the process of planning content for<br />

the podcasts?<br />

To make sure we always have enough content<br />

for each episode I plan out the segments weeks<br />

in advance. This process of planning and creating<br />

AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />

55


is now my full time work. Sometimes a 5 minute<br />

segment has taken 5-6 hours in organising, filming<br />

and editing.<br />

My inspiration is based on what I was originally<br />

looking for - high quality documentaries about<br />

knitting. When I’m planning content and editing,<br />

I am always thinking about how I can make it as<br />

interesting, varied and informative as possible. I am<br />

also always looking at what I can cut out to keep it<br />

lively and to the point. I have a musical background<br />

so I love to choose music that best represents the<br />

designs, the mood or something in the personality<br />

of each of our guests. That part is a lot of fun.<br />

Do you find that you have a truly global<br />

audience?<br />

Yes and no, there are still many people who don’t<br />

understand English, even in countries that have a<br />

heritage of knitting. There are many wonderful<br />

knitters in Russia and some parts of Asia who are<br />

doing incredible work but the language barrier<br />

means they wouldn’t watch us and unfortunately<br />

because they can’t speak English, I am unable to<br />

feature them on our show. However, we do have<br />

viewers from an extraordinarily wide range of<br />

countries around the world, and we really love it<br />

when someone tells us they are watching from<br />

somewhere exotic. In the last month we had a few<br />

viewers from Ethiopia. Apparently there is a group<br />

of Indian women in a very remote mountain village<br />

who gather to watch us. Only one of them speaks<br />

English and she translates to the others. They find<br />

it very funny to watch Andrew knitting me socks.<br />

What’s next for Fruity Knitting?<br />

For the first eight to ten months I was working<br />

weekends and every evening to produce the<br />

podcast and supporting website around my normal<br />

teaching work. That wasn’t something I could<br />

sustain long term so we set up a Patreon campaign<br />

(a crowdfunding platform for artists) so I could stop<br />

my teaching work and we could continue with the<br />

podcast. Our immediate goal is to stabilise that so<br />

we can confidently keep going.<br />

We have noticed that you sometimes have<br />

projects from the <strong>Rowan</strong> collections on the<br />

go, which was the last one you undertook and<br />

how did you find it?<br />

At the moment I don’t have a <strong>Rowan</strong> design on<br />

my needles but my daughter Madeleine is knitting<br />

Lantic by Sarah Hatton. She loves it. For her, it’s not<br />

too difficult, the design is classic and elegant and<br />

the recommended Softyak DK is a totally gorgeous<br />

yarn to work with.<br />

I have knitted a lot of <strong>Rowan</strong> designs. I love how<br />

<strong>Rowan</strong> supports really top, highly qualified designers.<br />

On Ravelry and in some other publications, there<br />

are a lot of basic knitting patterns available that<br />

are aimed at the intermediate knitter but very few<br />

patterns that showcase the extreme end of advanced<br />

knitting. I love how <strong>Rowan</strong> includes these designs<br />

in their collections. It elevates the craft of knitting<br />

to an art form and serves as inspiration.<br />

Do you have any tips for those people who<br />

are considering starting out with a vlog or<br />

podcasts?<br />

This is a hard question because everything on the<br />

internet is changing very fast and people have<br />

different motivations to podcast or vlog. I think<br />

the main thing is to have a clear vision of what<br />

you would like to do and not to feel like you have<br />

to copy a certain format or that there are hidden<br />

rules that you must follow. Be yourself and bring<br />

something new to the table.<br />

Click below to view Andrea and Andrew’s<br />

latest podcast issue.<br />

PODCAST<br />

56 ROWAN


EVENTS<br />

………………………<br />

UK<br />

Liberty Sewing School<br />

Saturday 9th September<br />

Learn to Crochet with Donna<br />

Grossman<br />

Saturday 16th September<br />

Design, Knit and Fit! With<br />

Georgia Farrell<br />

Saturday 23rd September<br />

Quilt as You Go with Lyn<br />

Scoulding<br />

Saturday 30th September<br />

Introduction to Brioche<br />

Knitting with Suzanne Strachan<br />

Saturday 28th October<br />

Hand Sew a Christmas Gift<br />

with Karen Roger<br />

MORE INFO<br />

John Lewis Oxford Street<br />

Knit Club<br />

Monday 4th September<br />

Lisa Richardson Crochet Along<br />

Monday 2nd October<br />

Timeless Collections - Cocoon<br />

and Worsted<br />

Mon 6th November<br />

Essential Accessories<br />

The Knitting & Stitching<br />

Show, Alexandra Palace,<br />

London<br />

11th – 15th October<br />

MORE INFO<br />

AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />

57


EVENTS<br />

………………………<br />

USA<br />

August<br />

3rd - 6th<br />

Stitches Midwest, Shaumberg,<br />

Ill<br />

8th - 13th<br />

I-75 Yarn Crawl, Interstate Rt<br />

75 Tennesse to Michigan<br />

13th - 20th<br />

Alaska Cruise with<br />

GalinaKhmeleva and Cheryl<br />

Brunette, Alaska<br />

17th - 20th<br />

Rocky Mountain Men’s<br />

Knitting Retreat, Estes Park, CO<br />

19th - 20th<br />

Twist Fiber Festival, St. Andre-<br />

Svellin, Quebec, Canada<br />

19th - 27th<br />

Yarn Along the Rockies Yarn<br />

Crawl, Colorado Front Range<br />

31st -3rd September<br />

West Coast’s Men’s Knitting<br />

Retreat, Federal Way Seattle<br />

September<br />

7th -10th<br />

Vogue Destinations Sonoma<br />

Valley with Nicky Epstein and<br />

Debbie Macomber, Sheraton<br />

Sonoma County, Petaluma, CA<br />

9th<br />

Kitchener- Waterloo Knitter’s<br />

Fair, Kitchener Memorial<br />

Auditorium, Ontario, Canada<br />

14th - 17th<br />

Greater Boston Yarn Crawl<br />

Boston, MA area<br />

14th - 17th<br />

Stitches Texas, Irving<br />

Convention Center, Irving, TX<br />

14th - 17th<br />

San Diego Yarn Crawl<br />

San Diego, CA<br />

15th - 17th<br />

New York City Yarn Crawl<br />

Manhattan to Brooklyn<br />

31st - 1st October<br />

Knit City, PNE Forum,<br />

Vancouver, BC, Canada<br />

58 ROWAN


®<br />

®<br />

October<br />

6th - 7th<br />

32nd Annual Knitters Day Out,<br />

Central Pennsylvania College,<br />

Summerdale, PA<br />

6th - 15th<br />

Best Little Yarn Crawl in TX,<br />

Hill County, TX<br />

20th - 22nd<br />

Knit East Fibre Fest, St.<br />

Andrews by the Sea,<br />

New Brunswick<br />

26th - 29th<br />

Southeast Men’s Knitting<br />

Retreat, Cleveland, SC<br />

®<br />

VOGUEKNITTING<br />

LIVE!<br />

VOGUEKNITTING<br />

LIVE!<br />

VK Live<br />

Seattle<br />

3rd - 5th November<br />

VOGUEKNITTING<br />

LIVE!<br />

MORE INFO<br />

FINAL Didot HTF M16 Medium Gotham Bold 100K 40%K<br />

AUTUMN <strong>2017</strong><br />

59


R O W A N<br />

AVAILABLE<br />

SEPTEMBER<br />

S E L E C T S<br />

CAMELLO<br />

8 designs for women by Lisa Richardson & Sarah Hatton<br />

using ROWAN Selects Camello<br />

Visit www.knitrowan.com in September for more information

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