The Breed Magazine - Volume 2
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Vol.<br />
II<br />
SEPTEMBER 2017
TAKE CONTROL OF LIGHT<br />
Introducing powerful, versatile, wireless lighting solutions<br />
for professional photographers and videographers.<br />
VividLite.com | Phone: 949.371.5337
Editor’s Letter<br />
We live in uncertain times. <strong>The</strong> world is in a state of emergency, our planet is changing in ways that beg for an extreme call to<br />
action! And yet here at <strong>Breed</strong>, we’ve decided to start a fashion magazine. I sit back and wonder, does the world really need<br />
another magazine? ANOTHER fashion magazine at that? To answer the question I thought to myself how fashion has always<br />
been fantasy to me. A fantasy I can escape to and dream. I fell in love with fashion because it took me to a better world, a<br />
world of beauty and love. Art is an escape and artists are really escape artists. We live in another world where we don’t need<br />
or want to pay attention to what is going on in today’s craziness. Art brings us hope. And that is why we think that, yes, we will<br />
start a fashion magazine and we can escape into a better world, even if it’s just for a little while.<br />
I started <strong>Breed</strong> Networks LLC because I wanted to educate emerging photographers to enter the fashion photography<br />
industry the right way. We have such loyal and loving members, and it gives me great joy to see their work published in our<br />
magazine. Luca Palmerini, a Lifetime Member, was able to shoot at AltaRoma, a fashion show in Rome dedicated to showcasing<br />
emerging fashion designers. We also have <strong>Breed</strong> Member Ron Beaver in this issue twice, because I applaud his efforts to<br />
really learn and embrace fashion photography, and I’ve actually had the pleasure of working with him and watching his work<br />
grow significantly in such a short time. Babeth Dupuy, from Paris, is the same. Her exuberance and passion toward her craft<br />
have also put her on the fast track of learning.<br />
You see, “<strong>Breed</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong>” tips its hat to fashion photographers who are dedicated, eager and open to learning. And you’re<br />
out there doing it! We honor you and want to pay tribute to you!<br />
When you work hard and your determination shows through, <strong>Breed</strong> recognizes it. To all of the emerging fashion photographers<br />
out there, stick with it! We need your eye, your voice and your vision! And let us here at <strong>Breed</strong> know about you! We<br />
want to see your work! We need to keep seeing beauty in the midst of all this chaos and riots.<br />
Pieces of Eight by ALLEN ZAKI
EDITOR IN CHIEF<br />
MELISSA RODWELL<br />
CREATIVE DIRECTOR<br />
RICHARD RAY RUIZ<br />
BEAUTY EDITOR<br />
RACHEL TOLEDO<br />
COPY EDITOR<br />
CHRIS KOBIELLA<br />
ASSISTANT TO THE EDITOR IN CHIEF<br />
DAVID HARRINGTON<br />
DIGITAL DIRECTOR<br />
JAN KLIER<br />
SOCIAL-MEDIA DIRECTOR<br />
ALICIA D’ANGELO<br />
ADVERTISING<br />
SCOTT CABANISS<br />
Cover Photographed by ALLEN ZAKI
On Tiffany ( left ):<br />
Silk Dress with Waist Tie BARBARA GONGINI<br />
Gas Mask EREVOS AETHER<br />
Choker DANIELLE ORTIZ<br />
Ram Pumps ZACK LO<br />
On Kailey:<br />
Hot Shorts EREVOS AETHER<br />
Embellished Goggles DARA YOUNG
GODS AND ALIENS<br />
Photography REKA NYARI<br />
Fashion ISE WHITE<br />
Shot on location at FURTHER FUTURE<br />
Models TIFFANY KELLER @ ELITE MODELS<br />
KAILEY HSU @ NeXT MODELS<br />
DEVIN CHILDERS @ IMG MODELS<br />
Makeup Artist RACHEL TOLEDO @ RAYBROWN represents<br />
using Tom ford makeup<br />
Hair JAKOB SHERWOOD @ THE WALL GROUP<br />
Photo Assistance SCOTT FURKAY & CARLY FEEHAN
Knit Jumper CARLO VOLPI<br />
Pants with Zipper Detail NELSON TAVAREZ<br />
Embellished Pumps ZACK LO
On Tiffany ( left ):<br />
Bodysuit with Shiny Detail NELSON TAVAREZ<br />
Leather Waist Cincher DARA YOUNG<br />
On Kailey:<br />
Neck Piece, Bra,Waist Belt, and Garter Belt BODYBINDS<br />
Hot Shorts EREVOS AETHER
Cord-Detail Jumper and Tiered Skirt SELMA KARACA<br />
Strappy Heels ZACK LO<br />
Headpiece JAKOB SHERWOOD
Sheer Gown NELSON TAVAREZ<br />
Lace-up Heels ZACK LO
On Devin( left ):<br />
Leather and Cowhair Jacket ADAM POLLINA<br />
Silk Crepe Tank TVSCIA<br />
Quilted Harem Pants DUSTY<br />
On Kailey:<br />
Bodysuit and Hot Shorts EREVOS AETHER<br />
On Tiffany:<br />
Embellished Jacket EREVOS AETHER<br />
Riding Pants THOMAS HANISCH
REGAN RETURNS<br />
Photography MELISSA RODWELL<br />
Fashion MICHEL BERANDI & MAX SMITH<br />
Photographed in Georgetown, Washington D.C.
Models<br />
LYENA @ NEXT MODELS MIAMI<br />
KEVIN BRAGG<br />
Makeup RACHEL TOLEDO @ RAYBROWNPRO<br />
USING TOM FORD MAKEUP<br />
Hair DAVID HARRINGTON USING DAVINES<br />
Wardrobe MICHEL BERANDI<br />
Vintage collection from MAX SMITH
Pieces of Eight<br />
Photography ALLEN ZAKI<br />
Models<br />
HANNAH TRIBOLET @ WILHELMINA L.A.<br />
ALICE @ IEG MODELS<br />
Makeup NICOLE WITTMAN USING NARS COSMETICS<br />
Hair JUNIE KANG USING J BEVERLY HILLS
Headpiece WXYZ JEWELRY<br />
Glasses ISLYNYC
WILD ORCHID<br />
Photography KELLEY DULCICH<br />
Fashion JESS MEDEROS & RENEE AROCHAS<br />
Model POLINA P @ FENTON MODELS NYC<br />
Makeup RACHEL TOLEDO @ RAYBROWNPRO<br />
USING MAKEUP FOREVER<br />
Nails ZOYA<br />
Hair DAVID HARRINGTON USING DAVINES<br />
Stylist’s Assistant RENEE AROCHAS
Jacket QUEENIE CAO<br />
Earrings ISLYNYC
Top VIVA AVIVA<br />
Pants MATERIEL<br />
Bracelet THE SHINY SQUIRREL VINTAGE<br />
Earrings WXYZ JEWELRY
Jacket JAMES R. PALMISANO<br />
Pants MATERIEL<br />
Headpiece WXYZ JEWELRY<br />
Fishnets WE LOVE COLORS<br />
Shoes ZAC POSEN
Collar WXYZ JEWELRY
Jumpsuit QUEENIE CAO<br />
Bodysuit STYLIST’S OWN
Dress NIKA TANG<br />
Scarf KAHRI
WILD ONE<br />
Photography LEWIS & MARSHALL<br />
Fashion BRANDON LEWIS & DAVID HARRINGTON<br />
Models MICAH THOMPSON @ MAVRICK AGENCY L.A.<br />
TANNER REESE @ MAVRICK AGENCY L.A.<br />
Men’s Grooming DAVID HARRINGTON<br />
Photo Assistant STEVEN CLANCEY
On Tanner ( standing ):<br />
Jacket JILL SANDERS<br />
Pants GUCCI<br />
Shirt DOLCE & GABBANA<br />
Scarf DIESEL<br />
On Micah:<br />
Jacket and Hat WORN OUT WEST<br />
Pants ALL SAINTS<br />
Lace-up Boots BARNEY’S
On Micah ( left ):<br />
Jacket ALL SAINTS<br />
Pants CLUB MONACO<br />
Belt GUCCI
Harnesses WORN OUT WEST
Belt DIESEL
Jacket ALL SAINTS<br />
Hat WORN OUT WEST
Choker. CHARMING CHARLIE<br />
Tassel Earring. KATE SPADE
COLOR LUST<br />
Photography & Artistic Direction RON BEAVER<br />
Model ISOBEL MAY-LOU @ FREEDOM MODELS L.A.<br />
Makeup ALEXANDRA DAGGY & JADE MITCHELL<br />
USING MAC, CHANEL & BOBBI BROWN<br />
Hair JADE MITCHELL USING JOHN FRIEDA<br />
Retouching ERICA MALTESE RETOUCHING
Earrings OSCAR DE LA RENTA “IMPATIENS”
All Accessories CHARMING CHARLIE
Nucleated Pearl Necklaces and Earrings<br />
THE KWAN COLLECTIONS
AUTUMN AIR<br />
Photography FLAMINIA FANALE<br />
Fashion GIORGIA SEVERINO<br />
Model HELEN MCCUSKER @ MARILYN AGENCY NYC<br />
Makeup RACHEL TOLEDO @ RAYBROWNPRO<br />
USING SEPHORA MAKEUP AND ZOYA NAIL POLISH<br />
Hair LORENZO DIAZ USING ORIBE HAIR PRODUCTS<br />
Photo Assistant CAROL SABBAGH<br />
Sweater GOOD OMEN NYC<br />
Earrings JOANNA LAURA CONSTANTINE
Coat NARCISS BY ALISE TRAUTMANE<br />
Shoes FEMMES SANS PEUR
Dress J. PAPA<br />
Rings JOANNA LAURA CONSTANTINE<br />
Shoes ALEXIS GAMBLIN
Sweater GOOD OMEN NYC<br />
Wide Pants NOT
Sweatshirt I WAITED FOR YOU<br />
Skirt KELSEY RANDALL<br />
Shoes FEMMES SANS PEUR
WILD IS THE WIND<br />
Photography BABETH DUPUY<br />
Silver Jacket H&M<br />
Shirt COS<br />
Models MARVIN LE PENDU & SABRINA LEDUC<br />
Hair Stylist MARVIN LE PENDU
Appliqué Top COS<br />
Gold Skirt MANGO<br />
Jewelry SAINT LAURENT
Military Jacket ZARA<br />
T-shirt COS<br />
Jeans ZARA
Jewelry LYE
Sequin Top MANGO<br />
Denim Jacket LEVI’S<br />
Skirt H&M<br />
Bag SAINT LAURENT
T-Shirt COS
Dress COS<br />
Necklace SAINT LAURENT<br />
Shoes ZARA
Embroidered Top ZARA<br />
Skirt ANTHROPOLOGIE
MALIBU GIRL<br />
Photography STANLEY CHANG<br />
Fashion RAQUEL RAMOS<br />
Model MARIS BERKOWITZ @ STARS MANAGEMENT<br />
Makeup and Hair WHITTANY ROBINSON
Coat J.CREW<br />
Lace Skirt ZARA<br />
Socks GUCCI<br />
Boots ZARA
Dress MANGO<br />
Belt GUCCI<br />
Fur Stole BANANA REPUBLIC
Satin Dress H&M
Velvet Bomber H&M<br />
Velvet Dress H&M<br />
Belt NASTY GAL
Tunic Dress ZARA
Tank POLO RALPH LAUREN<br />
Jeans H&M<br />
Bracelet ICELINK<br />
Boots GUESS
STORM TROOPER<br />
Photography H. AUGUST SMITH<br />
Fashion LYDIA MARIE<br />
Model KIMBER LONDON<br />
Makeup and Hair JUEL BERGHOLD USING TEMPTU AIRPOD
Briefs VERSACE<br />
Boots TIMBERLAND
Swimsuit MIKOH<br />
Scarf HERMÈS
Jumpsuit RAG & BONE
Scarf HERMÈS
HOMMES<br />
Photography GABRIEL MONTAGNANI<br />
Fashion NICOLE VOLYNETS
Suit ZARA
Suit VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
Suit ZARA
Suit GIAFRANCO FERRE<br />
Models JOAO FENRICH, SERGIO ACEVEDO @ Q MANAGEMENT,<br />
WILLI BRANDT & VLADISLAV KVARTIN<br />
Men’s Grooming DEBORAH BRIDER<br />
USING DONALD SCOTT NYC & BIODERMAL USA<br />
Photo Assistant IVY PHAN<br />
Digital Tech XILOLA GAIPOVA
THE MAKEUP ARTIST INDUSTRY PAGES<br />
by RACHEL TOLEDO<br />
A<br />
B<br />
C
F<br />
ashion Week is just around the corner. Every September a horde of creatives bounces from New York to London to<br />
Milan to Paris to see what creations and trends designers are showcasing, to work on teams for hair or makeup,<br />
photograph the shows or just photograph the fashion giraffes who attend. Working backstage as a photographer, hairstylist<br />
or makeup artist is like a rite of passage in many professional careers. But how does a newbie to the industry get<br />
there, and what is some of the essential etiquette an artist or backstage photographer may need once there? As an artist<br />
who has both assisted and keyed fashion shows in New York, London and Paris, here are some of my top insider tips.<br />
Makeup Artists or Hairstylists Look at past Fashion Week shows to see who the key artists and stylists were (key<br />
meaning the makeup artist or hair person who designed the look and was in charge). Find their Instagram and who their<br />
agent is, then email them—BUT keep your message short and to the point. If you don’t have a website, you better have a<br />
clean and kickass Instagram. Agencies and artists need to see a visual representation of your work. It’s best to hit them up<br />
four to six weeks before the shows. Leave all of your contact details and do not hound them. If they like your work they’ll<br />
get in touch. If you are super-new, let them know. Say you’re willing to clean brushes and carry their kits or fetch coffee.<br />
Make yourself seem indispensable. I learned more by assisting than I did in makeup school. Another option is to see which<br />
brands are sponsoring the shows, such as TRESemme or Maybelline. You can try to contact them directly, as they often<br />
will also be hiring.<br />
If you get booked for a show, realize that many call times are super-early and that you better be on time. A key artist will<br />
demo the look right from the beginning of the show’s call time. Models need to do hair, makeup and nails, plus fittings and<br />
a run-through, in just a few short hours, so every minute is precious. Key artists are busy and won’t appreciate having to go<br />
through everything again for someone who’s late.<br />
Pay attention during the demo. Video it or take notes if you have to. Be aware of not only the products they use but also<br />
what types of brushes they use. If you are really struggling to do something, it’s better to get help from another artist than<br />
to waste time. If waiting for a model backstage, make yourself useful. Clean the area you’re working in or offer to grab<br />
water or drinks. <strong>The</strong>se little things will be noticed.<br />
Social Media Every key artist works differently, so ask before taking any photos. Also, don’t post anything until after<br />
the show’s over—don’t spoil the show! Make sure you use appropriate tags. If you assisted, say that you did the makeup,<br />
but also mention who you assisted and tag that key artist. Tag the designer too. Many backstage areas will list tags and<br />
hashtags to use. If you’re doing an InstaStory or Snapchat, make sure it’s the appropriate time to do it. I once had a bunch<br />
of assistants Snapchatting when the models were lining up just a few minutes before showtime. This is the crunch time for<br />
fixing last looks, not filtering dog ears on yourself!<br />
Photographers Glam teams know you need your shot, but if you see that they are really stressed out working, try not<br />
to butt your way in. Give the artists space or just ask, “Hey, can I grab a shot?” Artists are always happy to get their work<br />
photographed, but it’s better to warn them. Also, be respectful of the girls changing backstage and where your lens is<br />
focusing.<br />
Other tips<br />
• Bring a snack and water. Not all shows have food, and if you’re working back-to-back shows on your feet, it’s important to<br />
keep hydrated.<br />
• Make sure makeup brushes and hairbrushes are clean. Bring something to disinfect and clean them between models.<br />
• And if you are a makeup artist, you MUST have foundations and powders for ALL skin tones, from the palest alabaster to<br />
the darkest shade. If you don’t have a variety of foundations to blend around, you won’t be prepared.<br />
• Wear comfy shoes—you’re working, not hitting the catwalk. You’ll be on your feet and running around.<br />
This Month’s Product Hot List<br />
(A) Charlotte Tilbury Filmstar Bronze & Glow A gorgeous homage to the golden age of Hollywood, it’s almost too<br />
pretty to use! <strong>The</strong> powders themselves contour and highlight with a beautiful subtlety. <strong>The</strong>y leave the face sculpted and<br />
glowing without looking dirty or overly frosted. ($68, charlottetilbury.com)<br />
(B) Sephora Collection PROfessional Makeup Case Compact yet very roomy. Super-lightweight with removable<br />
compartments. I love this bag, as it holds a lot more than you would expect and is very durable. ($100, sephora.com)<br />
(C) Real Techniques PowderBleu Collection Inspired by the luxurious coats of blue squirrels, these brushes (don’t<br />
worry, they’re cruelty-free and synthetic) feel incredibly luxurious. Real Techniques brushes are awesome for your makeup<br />
kit, blend beautifully and won’t bust your piggy bank. Created by YouTube makeup artist sensations Sam & Nic, aka<br />
Pixiwoo, the brushes even have video tutorials so you can get maximum use out of the tools. (realtechniques.com)<br />
Follow me for more insider looks into the world of hair and makeup on Instagram @racheltoledomua.
www.jointhebreed.com
ALTAROMA 2017<br />
Photography LUCA PALMERINI<br />
In July, 12 emerging designers took their creations to the runway to<br />
participate in a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to have their work<br />
and skills judged by a prestigious jury of industry members! <strong>Breed</strong><br />
lifetime member Luca Palmerini was there to shoot it!
TAKE FIVE WITH TYLER LASWELL<br />
Interview by Rachel Toledo<br />
Who are some of your favorite clients?<br />
Chrissy Teigen: She has you laughing the entire time you are working with her.<br />
Allison Janey: She is so calm, cool and collected, and so easy to work with.<br />
Meryl Streep: I grew up a Meryl Streep fan and I will die one.<br />
Tina Fey: I mean, do I even need to explain? Working with her is just like being in a movie with her. She’s never off.<br />
Gabriel Union: Another fun one to be around.<br />
What are some of your favorite products in your hair kit?<br />
TRESemme 24 Hour Body Mousse is the best volume mousse I have ever used.<br />
TRESemme Perfectly Undone hairspray is amazing for creating that undone texture that everyone loves.<br />
TRESemme Freshstart Dry Shampoo is the perfect way to give your hair a refreshed feel.<br />
What are some of your favorite jobs you’ve worked on?<br />
Dolce & Gabbana with Steven Klein. Boys, boys, and more boys ... just saying.<br />
Ralph Lauren with Bruce Weber. Bruce still shoots film and it was so cool to watch him work his magic.<br />
Project Runway with TRESemme. <strong>The</strong> challenges were so much fun and such a great way to test your skills.<br />
What inspires you creatively?<br />
Art is always a great place for inspo.<br />
Makeup. Sometimes if I am on a job and not really feeling the concept or just struggling with writer’s block I will<br />
let the makeup artist go first, and it usually is a great way to get inspired.<br />
Movies are one of my all-time favorite places to find inspiration.<br />
<strong>The</strong> models and celebs themselves are usually a great place to find inspiration. <strong>The</strong>y always have such a unique<br />
point of view.<br />
Music is another place I find inspo. <strong>The</strong> mood of a shoot can really be affected by the music we play.<br />
What are some of the reasons you like being a session hairstylist?<br />
I love to be a part of a team that works together to create a gorgeous image.<br />
I love to see how different we can make the model appear as we change the looks throughout the shoot.<br />
I love meeting new people and building lasting friendships with those who share the same love for the biz as I do.<br />
Every day is a new day and I never feel bored.<br />
I love getting to travel the world and experiencing new and interesting places with my friends.
Dress ATSUKO KUDO “OBSESSION” PEARLESCENT BRONZE TWIST-NECK PENCIL DRESS<br />
Earrings NADRI “LNEAR”<br />
Ring TIFFANY
ELEGANCE WITH AN EDGE<br />
Photography RON BEAVER<br />
Fashion RON BEAVER & JADE MITCHELL<br />
Model ISOBEL MAY-LOU @ FREEDOM MODELS L.A.<br />
Makeup and Hair JADE MITCHELL USING BOBBI BROWN, CHANEL, YSL, AND JOHN FRIEDA<br />
Lighting Assistant ALEX KHARCHUK<br />
Retouching RICHARD RAY RUIZ
Top ATSUKO KUDO BLACK LATEX “PARIS CUP CROP TOP”<br />
Skirt STELLA MCCARTNEY<br />
Gloves ATSUKO KUDO SMOKE-GRAY “FINGERLESS OPERA GLOVES”<br />
Necklace JONATHAN SIMKHAI BLACK FEATHER NECKLACE<br />
Shoes JIMMY CHOO “MAVY” VELVET PEEP-TOE BOOTS<br />
Location 1 HOTEL CENTRAL PARK
Dress ATSUKO KUDO RED “PARIS CUP” MINI-DRESS<br />
Earrings RANJANA KHAN<br />
Bracelets VINTAGE BAKELITE BRACELETS COURTESY OF TURNER HELTON ANTIQUES<br />
Shoes CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN “FOLKLO”<br />
Props TURNER HELTON ANTIQUES<br />
Special Appearance by BEAUREGARD the Shop Cat
Bra Top ATSUKO KUDO PINK “PARIS CUP” BRA<br />
Shirt BABATON<br />
Scarf BURBERRY<br />
Necklace HOLLY ZHANG<br />
Earrings THE KWAN COLLECTION<br />
Sunglasses PERVERSE
Skirt ATSUKO KUDO BLACK MINI SKIRT<br />
Cloak VINTAGE<br />
Earrings KATE SPADE “FIESTA FRINGE”<br />
Bracelets CHARMING CHARLIE<br />
Period Chinese Chippendale Screen Courtesy TURNER HELTON ANTIQUES
Suit ALEXANDER MCQUEEN<br />
Latex Collar ATSUKO KUDO<br />
Wallet YSL “MATELASSE”<br />
Shoes CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN “DECOLLETE” PUMPS<br />
Location JAMS RESTAURANT AT 1 HOTEL CENTRAL PARK
Corset AGENT PROVOCATEUR<br />
Skirt ATSUKO KUDO PINK “MINI KICK HEM SKIRT”<br />
Earrings REBECCA DE RAVENEL “SKINNY BOMB”<br />
Bracelet HOLLY ZHANG<br />
Shoes JIMMY CHOO “ROMY” PUMPS<br />
Vintage TIFFANY’S ostrich-feather fan courtesy TURNER HELTON ANTIQUES
Outerwear ATSUKO KUDO OLIVE “RESTRICTED EPAULETTE PLAYSUIT”<br />
Dress HERVÉ LÉGER<br />
Earrings OSCAR DE LA RENTA