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TAMPA-ST. PETERSBURG: A PRELUDE TO CUBA • ISRAEL’S CUBA CONNECTION<br />
The Magazine for Trade, Travel & Investment in Cuba<br />
November/December 2017<br />
CATERPILLAR AND JOHN DEERE<br />
Scoring Deals in Havana<br />
THE ENERGY REVOLUTION<br />
Plans for Oil, Sun and Wind<br />
THE BANKING PLAY<br />
Cuba and International Finance<br />
THE NEW RULES<br />
Breaking Down the<br />
OFAC Regulations<br />
WHERE TO<br />
INVEST IN<br />
CUBA NOW<br />
A Look at the Latest Priorities<br />
from the Government<br />
Déborah Rivas, the Director General<br />
for Foreign Investments at the Ministry<br />
of Foreign Trade and Investments
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Arkansas: Outfront on Cuba Trade<br />
Arkansas is leading the U.S. in economic and agricultural collaboration with Cuba. And because<br />
Arkansas is the nation’s number one producer of rice as well as a national leader in poultry, we’re<br />
a natural for sprinting to the front of the pack when it comes to food-source trade with Cuba.<br />
In Arkansas, we’re proud to help our neighbors to the south by sharing our resources and our<br />
expertise — which in the end will help both economies to grow and prosper.<br />
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ArkansasEDC.com | 1-800-ARKANSAS
content 11-12 /2017<br />
UP FRONT<br />
LIFESTYLE<br />
10 OPINION<br />
The question of whether to lift the<br />
embargo on Cuba has been a subject of<br />
debate for decades, but not for some<br />
12 PANORAMA<br />
Deals, events and transactions of note<br />
for trade and investment in Cuba<br />
16 IDEAS & INNOVATIONS<br />
Havana’s stray dogs are healthier<br />
and more approachable, thanks to<br />
a program that recruits volunteer<br />
veterinarians<br />
20 INTERVIEW<br />
Déborah Rivas, the Director General<br />
for Foreign Investments at the Ministry<br />
of Foreign Trade and Investments.<br />
DEPARTMENTS<br />
22 WASHINGTON REPORT<br />
The Trump administration’s<br />
long-awaited Cuba regulations have<br />
taken effect. Where do businesses and<br />
travelers go from here?<br />
26 TRADE<br />
Fewer US companies attended this<br />
year’s fair, but more left with signed<br />
deals<br />
28 BUSINESS HISTORY<br />
A Jewish documentary brings Cuba’s<br />
forgotten diamond industry to life<br />
30 EDUCATION<br />
Educational travel experts say the<br />
U.S. travel warning on Cuba doesn’t<br />
have to be a major liability concern<br />
32 ENTREPRENEURS<br />
Private sector advertising, like that<br />
designed by La Pegatina, is carefully<br />
navigating restrictions to reach ordinary<br />
Cubans<br />
34 TOURISM<br />
Concerns that U.S. visitors<br />
could overwhelm Cuba’s tourism<br />
infrastructure sparked the creation<br />
of a group devoted to ‘sustainable’<br />
tourism<br />
72 TRAVEL DIRECTORY<br />
A look at travel providers leading<br />
the way for U.S. visits to Cuba.<br />
76 REPORTERS NOTEBOOK<br />
Regla and Casablanca have charms<br />
that might get lost after Havana<br />
Harbor is refurbished<br />
FINAL WORD<br />
80 IN CLOSING<br />
Emily Mendrala, Executive Director<br />
of the Center for Democracy in the<br />
Americas<br />
4 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017
features<br />
36 CUBA’S ENERGY REVOLUTION<br />
With cheap oil from Venezuela drying up, Cuba pushes<br />
forward with plans to expand oil and gas production<br />
while shifting to renewable energy. The goal? To<br />
become energy independent<br />
36<br />
Iowa farmers<br />
support trade<br />
with Cuba<br />
44 THE NEW PORTFOLIO<br />
The latest portfolio highlights Cuba’s economic aspirations<br />
in a refreshingly frank way, but it glosses over<br />
what has stalled foreign investment for years<br />
50 ISRAEL’S ELUSIVE CUBA CONNECTION<br />
After decades of hostile relations, a trade delegation<br />
traveled from Tel Aviv to Havana in search of opportunities<br />
to invest in and develop new business in Cuba<br />
58 MULTILATERAL BANKING<br />
Cuba’s ascension to the international banking stage<br />
– so necessary for major infrastructure development -<br />
seems inevitable. But when?<br />
44<br />
62 TAMPA BAY AREA: A BRIDGE TO CUBA<br />
St. Petersburg and Tampa continue to pursue trade and<br />
travel ties with Cuba, despite pushback from the federal<br />
administration<br />
ON THE COVER<br />
Déborah Rivas, the Director General for Foreign<br />
Investments at the Ministry of Foreign Trade and<br />
Investments. Photo by Jon Braeley.<br />
50<br />
62<br />
6 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />
iowafarmbureau.com<br />
iowacorn.org
editors note<br />
The New Rules of Engagement:<br />
Upward from Here<br />
For those of us who believe the United States and Cuba should<br />
engage in trade, travel, and open diplomatic relations, the past<br />
year has not been good.<br />
The first sign of a downward turn in U.S.-Cuba ties happened<br />
when then-presidential candidate Donald Trump told a Miami<br />
crowd that he wanted to reverse the Obama administration’s<br />
“one-sided” deal with Cuba. With his election, many investors<br />
who had been fervently interested in Cuba put their plans on hold.<br />
Next came his June announcement in Miami, when he declared<br />
that he would indeed roll back parts of the Obama-era opening<br />
with Cuba. The good news here was that, despite his rhetoric,<br />
the specifics focused only on reducing individual travel to Cuba and<br />
a curtailment of business dealings with Cuban military entities.<br />
Despite the limited nature of the changes, U.S. business<br />
outreach to the island diminished, along with individual U.S.<br />
travel, even before the regulations took effect. And when the<br />
Trump administration slashed embassy staff in Havana, expelled<br />
15 Cuban diplomats in Washington, and issued a travel warning<br />
for Cuba, things only got worse.<br />
Then, in November, the new regulations were issued.<br />
To the chagrin of pro-embargo Cuban-American lawmakers,<br />
the actual regulations were surprisingly limited. The only<br />
changes were the elimination of individual “people-to-people”<br />
non-academic educational trips, and a prohibition on doing<br />
business with entities linked to Cuba’s military, intelligence and<br />
security services.<br />
Group travel to Cuba is still permitted, as well as visits that<br />
help the Cuban people. The first type of travel – which must be<br />
arranged by licensed organizations – means tour companies serving<br />
the island can carry on. It also means that cruise lines can continue<br />
taking passengers to the island. Both should now flourish.<br />
On the business side, it turns out that only about 20 percent<br />
of Cuba’s gross income comes from military-linked entities.<br />
In order to help U.S. businesses identify some military-linked<br />
entities, the U.S. State Department listed 180 organizations that<br />
are off-limits to U.S. companies and citizens.<br />
The good news is that we now have definition. U.S. businesses<br />
and travelers now know the rules and can plan accordingly.<br />
The really good news is that most of what the Obama<br />
administration achieved still stands and can be built upon. Now<br />
is the time for all Americans who want business, cultural, and<br />
scientific relations with Cuba to move forward – and to continue<br />
to push for an end to the benighted, failed policy of the Cold<br />
War-era embargo. The bottom has now been reached.<br />
You can read more details about the new regulations in<br />
Nick Swyter’s story on page 22, and can access the government<br />
regulatory documents and prohibitions on our website www.<br />
cubatrademagazine.com. H<br />
J.P. Faber. Editor-in-Chief<br />
Publisher<br />
Richard Roffman<br />
Art Director<br />
Jon Braeley<br />
Senior Writer<br />
Doreen Hemlock<br />
Vice President Sales<br />
Sherry Adams<br />
Moore & Company, P.A.<br />
Editor-in-Chief<br />
J.P.Faber<br />
CEO<br />
Todd W. Hoffman<br />
Director of Operations<br />
Monica Del Carpio-Raucci<br />
Production Manager<br />
Toni Kirkland<br />
Managing Editor<br />
Julienne Gage<br />
Associate Editor<br />
Nick Swyter<br />
Writers<br />
Richard E. Feinberg<br />
Larry Luxner<br />
Victoria Mckenzie<br />
Photographers<br />
David Ramos Casin<br />
Matias J. Ocner<br />
Manager, New Business<br />
Development<br />
Magguie Marina<br />
Aviation Consultant<br />
Lauren Stover<br />
Maritime • Art • Aviation Law<br />
Cuba Trade Magazine (ISSN 2573-332X) is published each month by Third Circle<br />
Publishing, LLC, at 2 S. Biscayne Blvd., Suite 2450, Miami, FL USA 33131.<br />
Telephone: (786) 206.8254. Copyright 2017 by Third Circle Publishing LLC. All<br />
rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part of any text, photograph or illustration<br />
without prior written permission from the publisher is strictly prohibited.<br />
8 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />
Postmaster: Send address changes to Third Circle Publishing, LLC, 2 S. Biscayne<br />
Blvd., Suite 2450, Miami, FL USA 33131. Subscription information domestic and<br />
foreign (786) 206.8254. Send general mailbox email and letters to the editor to info@<br />
cubatrademag.com. BPA International Membership applied for December 2016.<br />
Cubatrademagazine.com Thirdcirclepublishing.com<br />
www.moore-and-co.com
opinion<br />
A STRATEGIC RESOURCE FOR THE GLOBAL OIL & GAS EXPLORATION INDUSTRY<br />
The Cuba Embargo:<br />
To Lift or Not to Lift?<br />
The question of whether to lift<br />
the embargo on Cuba has been<br />
a subject of debate for decades,<br />
but not for some<br />
Melvin Torres,<br />
World Trade Center Arkansas<br />
Should the U.S. Congress lift the trade<br />
embargo against Cuba? On the one hand,<br />
opponents to the embargo claim that<br />
our almost 60-year-old policy toward<br />
Cuba has isolated the island, destroyed<br />
its once buoyant economy, and done little<br />
else. Others insist that the families of the<br />
grandchildren (now mostly third generation<br />
Cuban American) are first entitled<br />
to reparations for the land or assets their<br />
grandparents or great-grandparents once<br />
held on the island, prior to being nationalized<br />
by the government.<br />
According to the Foreign Claim Settlement<br />
Commission of the United States<br />
Cuban Claims Program Certified Claimant<br />
List, there are a total of 7,048 claims<br />
totaling $1.9 billion. Of these, more than<br />
half are for $10,000 or less. Another 208<br />
claims are for $50,000 or more, with the<br />
top 50 hitting just under $4 million and<br />
up. Many claims are for the same amount<br />
from the same entity, however, or repeated<br />
multiple times. In other words, different<br />
people will look at the claims in different<br />
ways and can reach different conclusions.<br />
On the other hand, Cuba claims that<br />
the almost 60-year-old embargo has dented<br />
Cuba‘s economic development by $1.1<br />
trillion as of 2014.<br />
It looks and sounds like a complex<br />
and irreconcilable convolution of numbers<br />
and figures. But in the end, what do<br />
Americans want? According to the PEW<br />
Research Center, 75 percent of Americans<br />
favor opening diplomatic ties with Cuba<br />
and 73 percent of Americans favor lifting<br />
the embargo immediately.<br />
Aside from figures and claims by both<br />
parties, the humanitarian factor plays an<br />
important role for U.S. farmers – who are<br />
aware of the embargo and understand<br />
it’s impact. This awareness comes from a<br />
united effort by multiple sectors, including<br />
the World Trade Center Arkansas, which<br />
encouraged and organized Arkansas Gov.<br />
Asa Hutchinson’s trip to Cuba in 2015.<br />
This visit made Gov. Hutchinson the first<br />
U.S. governor to visit Cuba since relations<br />
were normalized.<br />
While in Cuba, the WTC Arkansas<br />
signed a Memorandum of Understanding<br />
with World Trade Center Habana. This<br />
was followed by a Cuban delegation visit<br />
to Arkansas from the Cuban Embassy in<br />
Washington, D.C., in April 2016.<br />
Aside from state and local efforts, Congressman<br />
Rick Crawford of Arkansas’ first<br />
district and Sen. John Boozman have led<br />
the House and Senate with different bills<br />
to ease restrictions on U.S. agriculture sales<br />
to Cuba. The effort continues with other<br />
Arkansas non-profit organizations that have<br />
brought Cuban farmers to Arkansas and<br />
have held multiple summits on Cuba.<br />
So, what is so difficult about lifting<br />
the embargo? Mainly, that it requires<br />
Congressional approval. To this end, on<br />
Aug. 1, 2017, the Senate Finance Committee’s<br />
ranking member – Sen. Ron Wyden,<br />
D-OR, introduced a bill co-sponsored by<br />
six other Senators to end the Cuban embargo<br />
and establish normal trade relations.<br />
If the Cuban embargo is lifted, U.S.<br />
farm states will certainly benefit. The<br />
economic impact from exports to Cuba<br />
for these states will be considerable. It is<br />
conservatively estimated that ending the<br />
embargo will result in an annual boost<br />
of $1.4 billion in U.S. food sales to Cuba<br />
within five years.<br />
Arkansas for one can provide and<br />
finance all the rice Cuba consumes as well<br />
as grains, poultry and meats. Cuba is the<br />
largest consumer of these products in the<br />
region and Arkansas is the largest producer<br />
of rice and one of the top producers of<br />
the other U.S. agricultural products.<br />
So, what are the next steps? We have<br />
to wait and see how this historical bill<br />
introduction in Congress will end, but<br />
certainly Arkansas and Cuba have both a<br />
lot to gain through trade as neighboring<br />
partners. H<br />
Melvin Torres is the Director of Western<br />
Hemisphere Trade for the World Trade Center<br />
Arkansas in Rogers, AR. Sources for stats<br />
and figures are available at arwtc.org.<br />
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panorama<br />
Deals, events<br />
and transactions<br />
of note for trade<br />
and investment<br />
in Cuba<br />
10 commodities contribute<br />
$10 bilIion to Louisiana’s economy.<br />
Imagine what it could do for Cuba.<br />
Banned business: Several Old Havana hotels are off-limits to U.S. citizens<br />
The long-awaited sanctions<br />
The U.S. implemented new sanctions<br />
against Cuba that the Trump administration<br />
says will prevent U.S. businesses and<br />
travelers from disproportionately benefiting<br />
the Cuban military and government.<br />
The rules prohibit U.S. citizens from conducting<br />
business with 180 entities tied to<br />
Cuba’s military, intelligence and security<br />
forces. The entities include hotels, marinas,<br />
tourist agencies, stores, as well as the port<br />
and special economic development zone in<br />
Mariel. Deals that were in place before the<br />
new regulations took effect will be allowed<br />
to continue, the Treasury Department<br />
said. Under the new rules, nonacademic<br />
“educational activities” travel must be arranged<br />
with an authorized tour group that<br />
has its own representative accompanying<br />
the trip.<br />
Doctors discover brain abnormalities<br />
Doctors say they have discovered brain abnormalities<br />
among U.S. Embassy workers<br />
harmed by a string of mysterious incidents<br />
in Havana, according to the Associated<br />
Press. U.S. officials said the tests show that<br />
the victims developed changes to white<br />
matter tracts, which allow different parts<br />
of the brain to communicate. The findings<br />
are the most conclusive evidence to<br />
date that the incidents, which the State<br />
Department has called "attacks," caused<br />
distinguishable changes to the brains of<br />
the victims. It also raises suspicions a sonic<br />
12 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />
weapon was involved. The Cuban government<br />
has repeatedly denied claims it carried<br />
out attacks against diplomats. It has<br />
recently accused the U.S. of not presenting<br />
evidence of an alleged attack.<br />
North Korean visit<br />
North Korean Foreign Minister Ri Yong<br />
Ho met with Cuban Foreign Minister<br />
Bruno Rodriguez during a visit to Havana.<br />
The visit happened after several nations<br />
announced they will suspend trade with<br />
North Korea in response to its pursuit of<br />
nuclear weapons. Cuba does not currently<br />
do much trade with North Korea, but the<br />
visit provided an opportunity for Cuba to<br />
show it will not bow to U.S. pressure.<br />
Making it easier to visit<br />
In Washington, Cuban Foreign Minister<br />
Bruno Rodriguez announced that Cuban<br />
citizens living in the U.S. will no longer<br />
need to have their passports reviewed by<br />
embassy authorities before visiting the island.<br />
He said recent staff expulsions from<br />
the Cuban Embassy in Washington made<br />
the process too difficult. Rodriguez also<br />
said the government will make it easier<br />
for children of Cubans living in the U.S.<br />
to obtain Cuban citizenship, and that the<br />
country will welcome back some people<br />
who left the country illegally.<br />
Election cycle begins<br />
Municipal elections held in November and<br />
December kicked off an electoral cycle that<br />
will end with the selection of Raúl Castro’s<br />
presidential successor. The municipal elections<br />
are the only stage of the cycle that are<br />
contested publicly and with direct participation<br />
by ordinary Cubans. A coalition of<br />
government opponents known as #Otro18<br />
said government forces blocked them<br />
from registering about 170 candidates for<br />
the municipal elections. Another election<br />
will happen next year for provincial and<br />
national assembly duties. The new national<br />
assembly will select the next president.<br />
Cuba and the declassified JFK docs<br />
The release of about 2,800 records related<br />
to the assassination of John F. Kennedy<br />
offers more insight into U.S. attempts to<br />
undermine Fidel Castro’s rule. According<br />
to a 1962 National Security Memo, the<br />
U.S. considered using balloons to drop<br />
propaganda leaflets over Cuba; interrupting<br />
Cuban radio and television broadcasts;<br />
introducing biological agents to produce<br />
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seemingly natural crop failures; distributing<br />
explosive devices to Cuban exiles, and<br />
wrecking the Cuban economy.<br />
Welcoming investors<br />
Cuba inaugurated the 35 th edition of the Feria<br />
Internacional de la Habana on Oct. 31.<br />
The fair is Cuba’s largest annual general interest<br />
trade fair. More than 3,000 exhibitors<br />
from 70 countries attended this year’s fair.<br />
Going solar<br />
Germany’s EFF Solar and Spain’s Assyce<br />
Yield Energía signed 25-year agreements<br />
with Cuba’s electrical union to bring solar<br />
panels to provinces such as Mayabeque,<br />
Matanzas, Pinar del Río, and Artemisa.<br />
Nestlé breaks ground in Mariel<br />
Swiss multinational Nestlé broke ground<br />
on a food production facility in the Mariel<br />
Special Economic Development Zone<br />
(ZED Mariel) on Nov. 28. The production<br />
facility is being built as part of a joint<br />
venture between Nestlé and the state-run<br />
Corporación Alimentara SA (Coralsa).<br />
Coralsa President Nelson Arias Moreno<br />
said the facility was originally intended<br />
to be used for roasting coffee, but plans<br />
have expanded for it to produce biscuits<br />
and other culinary products as well. Cuba<br />
hopes the facility will reduce dependence<br />
on imports. Production is expected to<br />
begin in 2019, according to Arias Moreno.<br />
Another recession year?<br />
The United Nations Economic Commission<br />
for Latin America and the Caribbean<br />
(CEPAL) downgraded Cuba’s projected<br />
economic growth for 2017. CEPAL’s October<br />
projection estimates that the Cuban<br />
economy will grow by 0.5 percent in 2017<br />
– a reduction from the 1 percent growth it<br />
predicted earlier in the year. Credit rating<br />
agency Moody’s Investors Service estimated<br />
a 0.5 contraction in 2017. Fractured<br />
U.S.-Cuba relations, destruction from<br />
Hurricane Irma, reduced oil deliveries from<br />
Venezuela, and low global nickel prices<br />
contributed to the downgrade. The Cuban<br />
economy shrank by 0.9 percent last year.<br />
Following through on debt payments<br />
Cuba paid the second installment of a<br />
$2.6 billion renegotiated debt to 14 member<br />
states of the Paris Club, according to<br />
Reuters sources close to the matter. The<br />
debt payment is part of a 2015 agreement<br />
by some Paris Club members to forgive<br />
$8.5 billion of the $11.1 billion official<br />
debt Cuba had defaulted on through<br />
1986, plus charges. Cuba agreed to pay<br />
the remaining debt in annual installments<br />
through 2033. Cuba made its first $40<br />
million payment last year. The agreement<br />
allows creditors to swap old debt, and in<br />
some cases current debt, for an equity<br />
stake in local development projects.<br />
Clothing line breaks barriers<br />
Cuba’s edgy urban clothing line Clandestina<br />
is using a U.S. embargo loophole to<br />
sell and distribute clothes to the American<br />
market. The private sector store was<br />
able to register a company in the U.S.<br />
because one of its co-owners has Spanish<br />
citizenship. An embargo loophole allows<br />
Clandestina to hire Cubans who design<br />
clothing that is produced and shipped by<br />
U.S. manufacturers.<br />
American Express fined<br />
BCC Corporate SA (BCCC), a Belgium-based<br />
company owned by American<br />
Express, was fined by the U.S. Treasury<br />
Department’s Office of Foreign Assets<br />
Control (OFAC) for violating the Cuba<br />
trade embargo. American Express agreed to<br />
pay a fine of $204,277 for its violations, according<br />
to OFAC. The agency says BCCC<br />
credit cards were used to make more than<br />
$500,000 in purchases in Cuba from April<br />
2009 to February 2014. BCCC had control<br />
mechanisms to avoid the unauthorized<br />
transactions, but it failed to implement<br />
those practices, OFAC said.<br />
Who’s making money off Cuba cruises?<br />
U.S. cruise companies stand to earn more<br />
than $761 million in gross revenues from<br />
Cuba itineraries from 2017 to 2019, according<br />
to the U.S.-Cuba Trade and Economic<br />
Council. Businesses in Cuba are estimated<br />
to earn about $80 million from cruise<br />
passengers during that time period. The<br />
Cuban government is estimated to earn $21<br />
million in port taxes. U.S. cruise line CEOs<br />
expressed confidence in the Cuban market<br />
during a Cruise Lines International Association<br />
meeting held in Havana in November.<br />
More U.S. airlines lose interest in Cuba<br />
Alaska Airlines announced it will end its<br />
daily Los Angeles-Havana flights on Jan.<br />
22. Minnesota-based Sun Country Airlines<br />
submitted a request to the U.S. Department<br />
of Transportation to give up two<br />
weekly direct flights to Cuba that it never<br />
commenced. Delta Air Lines announced it<br />
will end six of its weekly flights from New<br />
York's JFK to Havana on Feb. 1. Silver<br />
Airways, Spirit Airlines, and Frontier have<br />
already dropped their Cuba flights.<br />
What’s behind the medicine shortage?<br />
Authorities from the Ministry of Health<br />
and state-run company BioCubaFarma<br />
acknowledged that pharmacies are experiencing<br />
drug shortages because suppliers<br />
haven’t been paid, according to state-controlled<br />
media. BioCubaFarma Operations<br />
Director Rita María Almaguer said 85<br />
percent of the materials used to produce<br />
drugs are imported. Some Cubans have<br />
turned to the black market for medicine. H<br />
14 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017
IDEAS & INNOVATION<br />
Amores<br />
Perros<br />
Havana’s stray dogs<br />
are healthier and<br />
more approachable,<br />
thanks to a program<br />
that recruits volunteer<br />
veterinarians<br />
By Julienne Gage<br />
and Nick Swyter<br />
Caridad Valdés, a security guard with Nina and P-9: The dogs belong to the neighborhood.<br />
From the sunny stoop of a corner building<br />
on Old Havana’s Plaza Vieja, a white<br />
mutt with a tan head naps in the sun,<br />
while another chubbier mutt stands guard,<br />
ready to protect, but mostly eager for some<br />
petting from passersby.<br />
The mere smell of one local prompts<br />
both dogs to jump up, tails wagging,<br />
tongues panting, and mouths grinning.<br />
The man, who is mute, is grinning too.<br />
“She’s not pregnant, she just eats a<br />
lot,” the man signs as he points to the<br />
chubby dog. Around her neck is a photo<br />
ID card listing a phone number and the<br />
local business address for a nearby video<br />
museum.<br />
“My name is Niña. I’m sterilized. I<br />
live at the Cámara Oscura. Don’t mistreat<br />
me,” it reads.<br />
Caridad Valdés, a security guard who<br />
works in the lobby of the building says<br />
Niña and the other dog, P-9, have really<br />
improved the neighborly atmosphere.<br />
“Even the building’s director says<br />
they’re like our mascots,” she said, as the<br />
two dogs poked their heads under her<br />
hands.<br />
In many low-income countries it’s<br />
common to find underfed, mange-plagued<br />
dogs scampering around garbage dumps,<br />
often hobbling on three legs. It’s a painful<br />
sight, not to mention a real turnoff for<br />
tourists. But many of Havana’s street dogs<br />
are healthier, friendlier, and more embraced<br />
by locals and tourists alike.<br />
That’s largely thanks to the efforts of<br />
pioneering Cuban animal rights activist<br />
Nora Garcia. Three decades ago, she began<br />
to help stray or neglected animals by<br />
developing what she calls a “monitoring<br />
protection corps.”<br />
The program recruited local veterinarians<br />
to volunteer to sterilize and vaccinate<br />
animals so they are less likely to be picked<br />
up by exterminators. It also helped facilitate<br />
adoptions inside Cuba. Today that<br />
movement is a non-governmental organization<br />
called Aniplant, and its work has<br />
gained support in recent years thanks to<br />
the country’s boom in tourism and small<br />
businesses. Entrepreneurs benefitting from<br />
an increase in tourism say they want their<br />
neighborhoods to feel more inviting, and<br />
having a clean, healthy dog population<br />
certainly helps.<br />
“There’s a lot more good will. Perhaps<br />
there’s a lot more to be done with educating<br />
about care, but the good will is there,”<br />
Garcia told Cuba Trade. “They are undeniably<br />
happier and less aggressive,” she<br />
said, noting Aniplant’s outreach cuts down<br />
the prevalence of illnesses such as rabies,<br />
which often come from dog bites.<br />
These trends come as little surprise<br />
to Andrew Rowan, president and CEO<br />
of the Humane Society International in<br />
Gaithersburg, Md.<br />
“What we’ve observed is, where we<br />
do dog sterilization people appear to start<br />
KANSAS<br />
W HE A T<br />
®<br />
16 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017
My name is Niña. I’m<br />
sterilized. I live at<br />
the Cámara Oscura.<br />
Don’t mistreat me<br />
Departures from Miami, Tampa and Key West.<br />
Operated by<br />
Animal rights activist Nora Garcia cares for stray dogs at a kennel in Havana’s Vedado neighborhood.<br />
behaving differently to the dogs. People<br />
start taking the dogs into more formal<br />
settings. Instead of just putting a bowl of<br />
rice in street, they’ll start taking the dog<br />
in, getting it vaccinated,” Rowan said.<br />
These services can stimulate the private<br />
veterinarian business, although many<br />
humane societies prefer to take the Cuban<br />
approach of free or reduced-rate vaccinations<br />
and sterilizations. Either way, Rowan<br />
says, veterinary services that resemble<br />
Aniplant’s can reduce the cost of public<br />
health expenditures by reducing emergency<br />
room visits for dog bites and rabies.<br />
“Worldwide, the cost of rabies is<br />
about $8 billion, and 75 percent of that<br />
is associated with loss of income from<br />
death or having to rest up,” Rowan said.<br />
The World Health Organization estimates<br />
that vaccinating just 40 percent of dogs<br />
in a community (at about $1 per dog) is<br />
enough to protect all of its inhabitants<br />
against the spread of rabies.<br />
Programs like Aniplant, combined<br />
with economic growth spurts, are very<br />
likely to spur greater pet ownership and<br />
spending on animal care, says John L. Vetere,<br />
president and CEO of the American<br />
Pet Product Association.<br />
At a basic level, he says putting collars<br />
and ID cards on stray animals lets humans<br />
know they are approachable, thus generating<br />
a curiosity in animal care that can<br />
quickly go viral, especially with social media.<br />
This makes people consider taking in<br />
house pets, especially in urban areas where<br />
people often work long hours in isolation.<br />
From there the next step is creating a local<br />
pet food industry.<br />
This trend started about ten years ago<br />
in China, just as that nation’s middle and<br />
upper classes began to boom.<br />
“It wasn’t all that long ago that dogs<br />
were dinner, and then the government said<br />
that having a pet is a good thing. Since<br />
then, pet ownership has skyrocketed,”<br />
Vetere said, noting that China is now one<br />
of the largest consumers of pet products<br />
in the world. A growing number of U.S.<br />
manufacturers have responded to China’s<br />
interest in pets by establishing facilities to<br />
make pet products in country.<br />
“Could that same thing happen to<br />
Cuba? Absolutely,” he said. “There’s still a<br />
lot of people struggling to make a living,<br />
so I’m not sure designer gourmet pet food<br />
is going to catch on. But people have to<br />
feed their pets, and your traditional, standard<br />
pet foods will, I think, be the way you<br />
get this strong foothold.”<br />
Garcia says she would welcome more<br />
specialized pet food. Currently, most of the<br />
dogs she encounters eat leftovers such as rice,<br />
sweet potato, fish, and pork entrails, especially<br />
from the growing number of restaurants.<br />
“Today that type of food is a challenge, but<br />
it would be great if we had an economy that<br />
would allow for that,” she said.<br />
Dog food sales are legal under current<br />
U.S. law, as they fall under the embargo’s<br />
exemptions for the sale of food and agricultural<br />
products.<br />
“It’s food, so it’s legal,” said attorney<br />
Pedro Freyre, the international practice<br />
chair at Akerman LLP.<br />
Even dogs without collars appear<br />
friendlier and less skittish than street dogs in<br />
other low-income nations. In fact, they can<br />
often be spotted laying on their backs being<br />
petted by tourists dining at outdoor tables.<br />
Rowan chuckled at the dogs’ pleas<br />
for attention. “Dogs are their own best<br />
advocates. They look at you and then you<br />
say ‘oh how cute,’ so you support behavior<br />
that produces rewards,’” he said. H<br />
Interested in helping Cuba’s dogs? Donations<br />
and other support can be sent to Aniplant’s<br />
U.S.-based team. See how by visiting www.<br />
theaniplantproject.org.<br />
Phone: 305-615-4151<br />
18 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017
INTERVIEW<br />
Cuba’s<br />
Foreign<br />
Investment<br />
Priorities<br />
Each year the Cuban government issues<br />
a compendium of its priorities for<br />
direct foreign investment called 'The<br />
Portfolio.' Shortly before this year’s list<br />
was published, Cuba Trade spoke with<br />
Déborah Rivas, the Director General<br />
for Foreign Investments at the Ministry<br />
of Foreign Trade and Investments.<br />
These are excerpts of that interview.<br />
By JP Faber<br />
CT: What are the priorities for investment<br />
in Cuba today?<br />
The priorities will be those sectors that we<br />
call strategic, those that are aimed at the<br />
development of the country…. What sectors<br />
are they? Tourism, which is the most<br />
dynamic one and one that of course can<br />
bring along with it the rest of the economy;<br />
and then the food industry in general.<br />
In this sector, we are very interested in<br />
foreign investment in order to produce<br />
locally and be able to replace imports with<br />
Cuban products.<br />
And, of course, we want to improve<br />
our exports. We are talking, for example,<br />
about the biopharmaceutical sector, biotechnology.<br />
It’s important and it’s one of<br />
those where we have comparative advantages<br />
… because we have invested a lot<br />
of money in that activity and now we are<br />
trying to create partnerships with foreign<br />
capital to develop some products and to<br />
put those products in the market, not only<br />
the Cuban market but to export those<br />
products as well.<br />
Another important sector is the<br />
production of electricity with renewable<br />
sources of energy. Other sectors have to<br />
do with construction, the building sector,<br />
because if you are developing a process<br />
of investment in the whole economy, of<br />
course the construction sector is key to the<br />
development of all the other investments.<br />
CT: Cuba also has oil fields that, under<br />
the right conditions, could be exploited.<br />
How much emphasis is the government<br />
putting on attracting investment for<br />
those, as opposed to renewable energy?<br />
Well, we have both needs. You know, we<br />
import 50 percent of the oil we consume<br />
every year, so for us, it’s important to<br />
create new fuel production capacities in<br />
Cuba. So, in the portfolio of opportunities,<br />
we are dedicated to attracting foreign<br />
partners to exploit those areas mainly in<br />
our inland areas, but also in an exclusive<br />
economic zone in the Gulf of Mexico.<br />
CT: What countries are you hoping to<br />
work with for wind and solar projects?<br />
Spain, Germany, and China. We already<br />
have more than 70 establishments with<br />
foreign capital to develop wind parks<br />
and solar parks in different areas of the<br />
country. The wind parks are mainly on the<br />
eastern side of Cuba, but the solar panels<br />
are all around the island.<br />
CT: Cuba’s annual foreign investment<br />
goal has been $2.5 billion, but over the<br />
past two years, only $1.3 billion in projects<br />
have been approved. Why is that? What<br />
are the challenges?<br />
Well, this amount has been improved and<br />
is increasing in 2017. But we do have a<br />
number of obstacles. First, we have internal<br />
obstacles. We call these “mentality”<br />
problems, because though we changed the<br />
regulatory framework, you cannot change<br />
the minds of the people of the [Cuban]<br />
enterprises as fast as you sign a new law…<br />
So we have a problem in that the [Cuban<br />
state] companies are not ready to negotiate<br />
Photo by Jon Braeley<br />
as fast as is needed and to close business in<br />
the portfolio.<br />
The speed of the [state] process is<br />
slow but now, in 2017, there is a change<br />
in the perception we have from the<br />
Ministry about entrepreneurs and the<br />
capability they have developed to close<br />
business more quickly… Right now we are<br />
reviewing the regulations of the foreign<br />
investment law to reduce the number of<br />
documents that the parties have to file to<br />
get approval and to make the process more<br />
flexible, and that should also cut down the<br />
negotiation time.<br />
The other problems we have are the<br />
external obstacles. The U.S. blockade<br />
against Cuba is the main problem, not<br />
only for the development of new investments<br />
in Cuba with foreign capital but for<br />
trade, and to get financing...<br />
It’s difficult for us to diminish the<br />
effect of the blockade, even on [foreign]<br />
banks, as you know. They freeze transfers<br />
and [there are] a lot of measures that<br />
create fear in other companies… After<br />
Hurricane Irma, an association of Friends<br />
of Cuba tried to transfer 60,000 euros to<br />
Cuba in hurricane help and ING Bank,<br />
one of the biggest Dutch banks, refused to<br />
transfer the money.<br />
CT: What about getting investment<br />
directly from U.S. companies?<br />
We have no specific policy in place against<br />
U.S. companies’ partnering with Cuban<br />
companies. And there is no different<br />
regulatory framework for U.S. investors.<br />
Quite the contrary, we are very interested<br />
in diversifying our investment sources...<br />
CT: But isn’t there a wariness in accepting<br />
investments from the United States<br />
because of the history where the U.S.<br />
controlled so much of Cuba?<br />
Actually what we have is a clear policy<br />
that we are never going to depend on<br />
a single market again… That has been<br />
Cuba’s history: we were dependent on<br />
Spain when we were colonies; we were<br />
dependent on the United States when we<br />
were a neo-colony; then the revolution triumphed<br />
and, because of the blockade, we<br />
then were dependent on the USSR and<br />
the socialist market, and that is something<br />
that we are not going to repeat.<br />
CT: One of the new obstacles to U.S.<br />
investment is Trump’s policy that U.S.<br />
companies will not be able to do business<br />
with any company owned by the Cuban<br />
military. Will the Cuban military transfer<br />
some of its holdings to another part of the<br />
government to attract U.S. investments?<br />
I don’t think we are going to do anything<br />
at all, neither the military sector nor the<br />
non-military, because, well, we’re not<br />
going to help Mr. Trump with his policies.<br />
That is simply the way our country works,<br />
we have companies in all sectors.<br />
CT: What are some of the most promising<br />
investments that have been made in<br />
the last few years?<br />
Well, in the last few years, tourism,<br />
basically. We have more than 25 joint<br />
ventures already established in the tourism<br />
sector and we also have formed some<br />
older, not recent, ones in the agro-food<br />
industry. We have many food and drink<br />
producers that are now companies with<br />
foreign capital. For example, we have an<br />
association with AB InBev, you know? A<br />
major transnational beer producer. It’s our<br />
partner in Cuba to produce Cristal and<br />
Bucaneros.<br />
We also have joint ventures in the fuel<br />
sector to produce, for example, liquid gas.<br />
And we produce thermoelectric energy<br />
with companies from Canada. So, with all<br />
of that, there are more than 200 establishments<br />
in our country that existed prior to<br />
the new [2014] FDI law.<br />
CT: Most of the foreign investment that<br />
Cuba is officially looking for seems to be<br />
for large-scale projects. Does your ministry<br />
concern itself with attracting foreign<br />
investors for small businesses?<br />
A lot of people ask us this, if all we want<br />
are large projects. If you review the portfolio<br />
of opportunities in all the sectors,<br />
there are projects of all sizes. There are<br />
projects that don’t reach $1 million in<br />
capital, and there are projects of $700 million<br />
in capital. But we don’t promote any<br />
one in particular; we promote all of them.<br />
A large project and a small project are<br />
both just as important for Cuba today. For<br />
example, this year there are three small<br />
projects to develop the textile industry in<br />
Cuba. For us this is just as important as<br />
a project that is going to export mineral<br />
concentrates and where the investment is<br />
$300 million.<br />
CT: For some projects in Mariel, the<br />
Cuban government is accepting a higher<br />
proportion of foreign ownership for<br />
projects. Is this likely to expand outside of<br />
Mariel?<br />
Well, this is not just in Mariel, and it’s not<br />
even from the new law. Law 77 of 1995<br />
also allowed majority foreign capital interest<br />
in businesses. In fact, as of the year<br />
2014, we had eight companies established<br />
in Cuba that were 100 percent foreign<br />
capital. So this is something that the law<br />
allows and that had already been occurring.<br />
Of course, after the creation of the<br />
Mariel free zone, business has increased:<br />
we now have almost 30 companies with<br />
only foreign capital doing business.<br />
CT: In general, what will encourage more<br />
foreign direct investment?<br />
Well, I think we must keep trying to find<br />
a way—and now with the Trump government,<br />
it’s looking a little farther away again<br />
to me—to lift the blockade or continue taking<br />
measures that were already being taken<br />
so that both U.S. companies and those in<br />
the rest of the world can dispel their cloud<br />
of fear about doing business in Cuba.<br />
For us, the blockade is a serious problem<br />
that remains an obstacle every day for<br />
our businesses, making everything complicated<br />
with our suppliers and our investors.<br />
It’s important for everyone to understand<br />
that the blockade is tangible, it’s an obstacle,<br />
it exists, and it makes it difficult for us…<br />
[but] We had foreign investments before<br />
Obama and we still have foreign investment<br />
under Trump’s administration. So, thinking<br />
that because of Trump we are going to stop<br />
having foreign investment in Cuba, is not<br />
realistic. We are in fact having an increase in<br />
foreign investment in Cuba and the U.S. is<br />
missing these opportunities. H<br />
20 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 CUBATRADE<br />
21
WASHINGTON REPORT<br />
Making Sense of the<br />
New Cuba Rules<br />
The Trump administration’s long-awaited<br />
Cuba regulations have taken effect. Where<br />
do businesses and travelers go from here?<br />
By Nick Swyter<br />
Now that the Trump administration has<br />
implemented its long-awaited regulations<br />
on travel and business with Cuba, U.S.<br />
companies and travelers have more clarity<br />
on how to advance – or scrap – their plans<br />
for the island.<br />
The Trump administration says the<br />
new sanctions prevent U.S. businesses and<br />
travelers from disproportionately benefitting<br />
Cuba’s military, intelligence and security<br />
forces at the expense of the island’s<br />
burgeoning private sector. They essentially<br />
have two core components.<br />
First, U.S. citizens are prohibited from<br />
conducting direct financial transactions<br />
with 180 entities linked to Cuba’s military,<br />
intelligence, and security services. The entities<br />
include hotels, tourism groups, marinas,<br />
beverage brands, stores, as well as the port<br />
and special economic development zone in<br />
Mariel. Airlines, cruise lines, and other U.S.<br />
companies that were already operating in<br />
Cuba before the new sanctions were implemented<br />
won’t be interrupted, the Treasury<br />
Department said.<br />
Second, U.S. citizens are no longer<br />
allowed to visit Cuba on individual “people-to-people”<br />
non-academic educational<br />
exchange programs, which allowed travelers<br />
to set their own itinerary of activities.<br />
Leisure travelers must now visit the island<br />
with organized tour groups that have their<br />
own representative accompanying the trip.<br />
“We have strengthened our Cuba<br />
policies to channel economic activity away<br />
from the Cuban military and to encourage<br />
the government to move toward greater<br />
political and economic freedom for the<br />
Cuban people,” Treasury Secretary Steve<br />
Mnuchin said in a statement.<br />
The new rules undoubtedly create<br />
more obstacles for businesses and travelers.<br />
But renewed clarity on Cuba is<br />
appreciated by many, especially those who<br />
have tracked Donald Trump since he first<br />
promised to “reverse” the Obama administration’s<br />
“one-sided” deal more than a year<br />
ago as a presidential candidate.<br />
“The new rules are a welcome<br />
development because they remove the<br />
uncertainty and afford predictability for<br />
businesses, and they allow for robust transactions<br />
to continue on the island,” said<br />
Pedro Freyre, the international practice<br />
chair at Akerman, a law firm whose clients<br />
include U.S. companies operating in Cuba.<br />
Now that there is a path forward, U.S.<br />
businesses and travelers are eager to learn<br />
what activities are still legal in Cuba, as<br />
well as how the Trump administration will<br />
enforce the new sanctions.<br />
What’s still allowed<br />
U.S. citizens are allowed to stay at the<br />
Iberostar Parque Central in Havana<br />
Despite his insistence, Trump did not<br />
“cancel the last administration’s completely<br />
one-sided deal with Cuba,” as he vowed to<br />
do in Miami on June 16. Besides the restrictions<br />
on individual “people-to-people”<br />
travel and conducting business with military-linked<br />
entities, most of the Obama<br />
administration’s policy remains intact.<br />
On travel, the 12 categories for<br />
authorized visits to Cuba are mostly unchanged,<br />
though the “educational activities”<br />
category now requires U.S. citizens<br />
to use a licensed tour group that has its<br />
own representative accompanying the trip.<br />
The Obama administration only authorized<br />
self-directed leisure travel in March<br />
2016, so the new travel regulations mostly<br />
resemble what was allowed before then.<br />
The Treasury Department also<br />
clarified what constitutes travel under the<br />
“support for the Cuban people” category.<br />
Travelers who use that category are encouraged<br />
to stay at private bed-and-breakfasts<br />
(casas particulares) and eat at private<br />
restaurants (paladares) while participating<br />
in a compulsory schedule of activities that<br />
“enhance contact with the Cuban people,<br />
support civil society in Cuba, or promote<br />
the Cuban people’s independence from<br />
Cuban authorities.”<br />
Augusto Maxwell, the chair of Akerman’s<br />
Cuba practice, said the clarification<br />
allows “support for the Cuban people” to<br />
become the de facto category for self-directed<br />
travel. U.S. visitors will just need to<br />
spend their money at private businesses.<br />
However, the category hasn’t been strongly<br />
defined so travelers are encouraged to<br />
keep detailed records of their ‘meaningful’<br />
activities.<br />
“So these self-directed travelers will<br />
no longer go on ‘people-to-people’ trips,<br />
but they will now go on ‘support for the<br />
Cuban people’ trips,” Maxwell said. “I<br />
think over the next two or three months<br />
we are going to re-educate the public that<br />
you can still go to Cuba, and you just have<br />
to go and support the Cuban people.”<br />
People who booked at least part of<br />
their Cuba travel before Trump’s June 16<br />
policy directive announcement are also<br />
still allowed to take their planned trips,<br />
the Treasury Department said.<br />
The prohibition on conducting<br />
transactions with the State Department’s<br />
list of 180 military-linked entities is more<br />
complicated, partly because of its various<br />
exemptions.<br />
“Consistent with the Administration’s<br />
interest in avoiding negative impacts on<br />
American businesses and travelers, commercial<br />
engagements in place prior to the<br />
State Department’s listing of any entity or<br />
subentity will continue to be authorized,”<br />
the Treasury Department said.<br />
U.S. cruises and commercial flights<br />
will continue, as well as “other types of<br />
contractual arrangements agreed to prior<br />
to the issuance of the new regulations.”<br />
That means U.S. agriculture exports to<br />
Cuba are still allowed despite the Mariel<br />
Container Terminal appearing on the list<br />
of prohibited entities. Unlimited remittances<br />
to Cubans who aren’t “prohibited<br />
officials of the Government of Cuba” will<br />
also continue in spite of FINCIMEX, the<br />
entity that handles cash transfer services<br />
such as Western Union, appearing on the<br />
State Department list.<br />
Marriott International’s Starwood<br />
subsidiary is also still allowed to manage<br />
the Four Points by Sheraton in Havana – a<br />
property owned by the Cuban military’s<br />
Gaviota tourism group. U.S. customers can<br />
even continue staying at the hotel since it’s<br />
not included in the State Department list.<br />
Several Gaviota hotels managed by European<br />
hospitality companies weren’t as lucky.<br />
“I think it would have been odd for<br />
the State Department to come out with a<br />
list that said Americans cannot stay at the<br />
Tour groups can still enjoy the sights at Old Havana's Plaza Vieja<br />
only hotel managed by a U.S. company,”<br />
Maxwell said. “I think the clear message<br />
though, was that there will be no more<br />
of those. So Gaviota, which is a military-owned<br />
entity, is shut down for U.S.<br />
businesses.”<br />
The various exemptions and the<br />
Treasury Department’s delayed rollout<br />
of the new sanctions allowed several U.S.<br />
companies to secure operational deals with<br />
Cuba at the buzzer. Rimco, Caterpillar’s<br />
dealer for Puerto Rico and the eastern<br />
Caribbean, earned approval on Nov. 1 to<br />
set up a dealer facility in the Mariel Special<br />
Economic Development Zone – one<br />
of the banned entities. John Deere also<br />
secured a deal to ship tractors to Cuba in<br />
November.<br />
Enforcement<br />
It’s not clear how the Trump administration<br />
intends to enforce the new sanctions.<br />
The Departments of Treasury and State<br />
didn’t announce any new entry-exit<br />
requirements for U.S. travelers visiting<br />
Cuba. They also didn’t state whether any<br />
22 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 CUBATRADE<br />
23
The New Cuba Regulations<br />
RESTRICTED: Self-directed “person-to-person”<br />
non-academic educational travel<br />
BANNED: Conducting business with a list of<br />
entities linked to Cuba’s military, intelligence<br />
and services<br />
PERMITTED: Everything else previously<br />
authorized by President Obama<br />
WE GROW TRADE ®<br />
CELEBRATING 10 YEARS OF TAKING THE BEST OF ARKANSAS TO THE WORLD<br />
The Mariel Special Economic Development Zone is off-limits to U.S. businesses<br />
The Melia Marina Varadero and its adjacent<br />
marina appear on the State Department list<br />
more staff members will be tasked with<br />
enforcing the new regulations.<br />
The ban on U.S. businesses conducting<br />
transactions with entities on the State Department<br />
list is fairly straightforward. So is<br />
the distinction on which hotels are banned.<br />
But making sure private U.S. citizens don’t<br />
give money to any of the military-linked<br />
entities may be more difficult, especially<br />
since the State Department’s list includes<br />
entities such as soft drink manufacturers,<br />
rum producers, and retail stores.<br />
“Certainly, trying to enforce the<br />
prohibition on doing business with a retail<br />
outlet in Old Havana is almost impossible,”<br />
said William LeoGrande, an American<br />
University professor and co-author of<br />
Back Channel to Cuba: The Hidden History<br />
of Negotiations Between Washington and<br />
Havana.<br />
LeoGrande said he expects travel<br />
agencies to handle some enforcement<br />
since they will be responsible for booking<br />
accommodations and scheduling activities.<br />
“The regulations actually say that if you<br />
go with a licensed travel provider, the expectation<br />
is that the travel provider keeps<br />
the records to assure you are obeying the<br />
regulations,” LeoGrande said.<br />
Maxwell, for his part, characterized<br />
the enforcement of the new regulations as<br />
an “honor system.” He said U.S. authorities<br />
charged with enforcing sanctions are<br />
already busy with more pressing enemies<br />
such as ISIS.<br />
Still, he said Americans who visit<br />
Cuba should keep records of their trip for<br />
more than five years. “You are subject to an<br />
audit for five years,” he warned.<br />
Closing the book<br />
The rollout of the new regulations<br />
happened against the backdrop of the<br />
unexplained injuries suffered by at least<br />
two dozen U.S. embassy workers and<br />
family members stationed in Havana.<br />
The sanctions could certainly weaken<br />
already fractured U.S.-Cuba relations.<br />
The State Department has labeled the<br />
bizarre incidents “attacks.” It retaliated by<br />
withdrawing most of its Havana embassy<br />
staff, expelling Cuban diplomats in<br />
Washington, and issuing a travel warning<br />
for the island.<br />
Cuba has repeatedly denied involvement<br />
in an alleged sonic weapon attack.<br />
More recently, high-ranking Cuban officials<br />
have accused the U.S. of withholding<br />
information on the investigation and suggested<br />
the “attacks” didn’t happen.<br />
LeoGrande says the Trump administration’s<br />
next action toward the island may<br />
be determined by what investigators learn<br />
about the mysterious events.<br />
“It’s possible that could escalate to<br />
a point where the administration might<br />
put in place a second set of sanctions,”<br />
LeoGrande said. “But at least for the time<br />
being, the administration has wrapped up<br />
its Cuba policy, and I don’t expect them to<br />
revisit it anytime soon.” H<br />
RICE<br />
TIMBER<br />
POULTRY<br />
SOY<br />
24 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017
TRADE<br />
More with Less<br />
A lot can change in a year.<br />
More than 30 U.S. companies had<br />
booths at last year’s Feria Internacional<br />
de la Habana, the annual trade fair that<br />
attracts thousands of companies from<br />
around the world.<br />
But only about a dozen U.S. companies<br />
had booths at this year’s fair, held<br />
from Oct. 31 to Nov. 4. The drop in participation<br />
was so noticeable that a section<br />
of the pavilion occupied by U.S. organizations<br />
last year was blocked off to attendees.<br />
The U.S. presence at the fair is one of<br />
several signs of how American enthusiasm<br />
for investing in Cuba has dipped under<br />
President Donald Trump.<br />
U.S. companies such as Napa Auto<br />
Parts and Rust-Oleum, which explored<br />
business opportunities in Cuba a year ago,<br />
chose to sit out November’s fair. Crowley<br />
Maritime Corp., Havana Air, VaCuba,<br />
USA Poultry & Egg Export Council, and<br />
the Maryland Department of Agriculture<br />
were among the handful of U.S. organizations<br />
that decided to maintain a presence.<br />
“Yes, there are fewer exhibitors, and<br />
26 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />
Fewer US companies attended this year’s fair,<br />
but more left with signed deals<br />
there’s a little bit of uncertainty about<br />
what the future holds,” said Theresa<br />
Brophy, director of international marketing<br />
at the Maryland Department of<br />
Agriculture. She said her organization<br />
chose to attend the fair because of years of<br />
hard work. “We’ve decided that we’ve built<br />
really good relationships and it’s a strong<br />
market. So we’re going to continue to do<br />
what we do.”<br />
But even amid more pessimistic attitudes<br />
in the U.S. corner of the fair, several<br />
companies secured deals.<br />
Rimco, Caterpillar’s dealer for Puerto<br />
Rico and the eastern Caribbean, earned<br />
approval to build and operate a dealer<br />
facility in the Mariel Special Economic<br />
Development Zone (ZED Mariel). The<br />
announcement makes Rimco the first U.S.<br />
company to get the green light to set up<br />
shop in the zone, which offers investors<br />
incentives such 100 percent foreign ownership,<br />
long-term contracts, and tax breaks.<br />
“We were expecting it to happen next<br />
month, but I think the timing is great with<br />
us being at the fair,” said Rimco Executive<br />
The Rimco team stands in front of their booth at the Havana trade fair<br />
By Nick Swyter<br />
Vice President Caroline McConnie.<br />
The company hopes to open a facility<br />
that sells, rents, and repairs Caterpillar<br />
products as early next year. The plan is<br />
to operate in a temporary facility until<br />
a permanent space is built. “We want to<br />
start marketing our products as soon as<br />
possible,” McConnie said.<br />
John Deere & Co., the Illinois-based<br />
company known for its farm machinery,<br />
also signed a deal at the fair to sell tractors<br />
to Cuba. The tractors were reportedly<br />
scheduled to arrive in Cuba in November.<br />
The two heavy equipment deals won’t<br />
be affected by the Trump administration’s<br />
new regulations on travel and business<br />
with Cuba. The rules bar U.S. citizens from<br />
conducting transactions with 180 entities<br />
linked to Cuba’s military, intelligence,<br />
and security services. ZED Mariel is one<br />
of the banned entities, but Rimco will be<br />
allowed to move forward because it signed<br />
a deal before the new rules took effect.<br />
John Deere, for its part, signed its tractor<br />
deal with state-owned entity Maquimport,<br />
which is not a banned business. H<br />
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BUSINESS HISTORY<br />
A Brief,<br />
Shining<br />
Moment<br />
A Jewish<br />
documentary<br />
brings Cuba’s<br />
forgotten diamond<br />
industry to life<br />
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Remembering the Past:<br />
Marion Finkels Kreith, who<br />
arrived in Cuba at age 14 to<br />
work as a diamond polisher.<br />
Cuba: exporter of rum, cigars, nickel and<br />
… diamonds?<br />
Few are old enough to remember, but<br />
for a brief period during and after World<br />
War II, Cuba became a world center for<br />
diamond cutting and polishing.<br />
A new documentary, Cuba’s Forgotten<br />
Jewels: A Haven in Havana, brings this<br />
obscure story to life. The 46-minute film by<br />
co-directors Judy Ann Kreith and Robin<br />
Truesdale, which cost $200,000 to produce,<br />
describes how thousands of Belgian,<br />
Dutch and other European Jews not only<br />
escaped extermination by the Nazis but<br />
also brought to Cuba a thriving business.<br />
“This is a very personal story,” Kreith<br />
told Cuba Trade, following a recent<br />
screening of her movie at the Patronato,<br />
largest of Havana’s three functioning<br />
synagogues. Her mother, Marion Finkels<br />
Kreith, was one of about 6,000 Jews who<br />
escaped to Cuba in the late 1930s and<br />
early 1940s.<br />
“Her father, who was interned in a<br />
camp in southern France, heard there<br />
were a few visas to Cuba, so they were<br />
able to get visas for the whole family,”<br />
said Kreith, 56. “All of the characters in<br />
the film were in Belgium when the Nazis<br />
28 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />
invaded on May 10, 1940.”<br />
The elder Kreith, now 90, arrived in<br />
Cuba at the age of 14 and went to work<br />
polishing diamonds in a stifling-hot factory.<br />
At one time, between 30 and 50 such<br />
facilities operated in Havana.<br />
“Some were very small factories, operating<br />
in people’s homes, and others were<br />
very large,” said Kreith. “When Hitler<br />
invaded, the Belgian refugees and some<br />
from Holland took what they could on<br />
their bodies, but it was their connections<br />
that helped them start over again. They<br />
used those connections, with the diamond<br />
syndicates in London and New York.”<br />
Most saw Havana as a temporary<br />
stop on the way to Miami or New York.<br />
But after Pearl Harbor, it became nearly<br />
impossible for refugees in Cuba to get U.S.<br />
visas, so they remained. But by 1948, with<br />
the war over, Cuba’s fledgling diamond<br />
industry had disappeared.<br />
“Once most of the main experts in the<br />
trade received their visas, they left Cuba,”<br />
according to Kreith. “Many went to the<br />
U.S., some back to Belgium, and others<br />
to Israel. Without the worldwide connections<br />
of the diamond merchants and their<br />
top-level expertise, the Cuban government<br />
was unable to keep the industry in Havana.”<br />
Kreith’s mother, for example, emigrated<br />
to Miami, then to Los Angeles, and<br />
finally to Boulder, Colorado, where Kreith<br />
grew up. A dance instructor, she fell in love<br />
with Afro-Cuban dance when she visited<br />
Cuba in 2000. Since then, she’s traveled to<br />
the island at least 25 times, spending the<br />
past seven years researching the documentary.<br />
Her co-director, Robin Truesdale,<br />
interviewed the aging refugees, most now<br />
in their 80s and 90s.<br />
“I realized that if we were going<br />
to make this film, we’d have to make it<br />
while people are still alive,” said Kreith,<br />
56. “Our dream is to bring it to Yad<br />
Vashem [Israel’s national Holocaust<br />
museum]. We’d like to have it be a part of<br />
their archives, and we’d also like to screen<br />
it as widely as we can.” That includes the<br />
Havana Film Festival in December. H<br />
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EDUCATION<br />
Top left: Participants of Maine’s maritime educational program<br />
Ocean Passages ready their 130-foot sailboat as it heads to Cuba.<br />
Top right: Ocean Passages students meet with the staff of Sen.<br />
Angus King (I-Maine) to discuss travel to Cuba.<br />
Bottom right: Ocean Passage’s 130-foot sailboat on its way to Cuba.<br />
STAYING THE COURSE<br />
Educational travel experts say the U.S. travel warning<br />
on Cuba doesn’t have to be a major liability concern<br />
This fall, 15 young Americans who<br />
enrolled in a maritime expedition from<br />
Portland, Maine to Cienfuegos, Cuba<br />
have been learning that politics, like<br />
sailing, requires strategic navigation<br />
through choppy waters. Their leaders say<br />
they could be setting a precedent for other<br />
Cuba education tour operators.<br />
“We’re just trying to go and make<br />
friends in Cuba and experience the culture,<br />
teach them about sailing, and learn<br />
some stuff ourselves,” trip participant Evans<br />
Clark said during a phone interview<br />
from Charleston, S.C., one of the ports<br />
where the crew docked for supplies.<br />
Sponsored by the Maine-based maritime<br />
education program Ocean Passages,<br />
the crew is on a “gap semester” program<br />
designed for students taking a break<br />
between high school and college. Among<br />
other topics, participants learn about Cuba’s<br />
ecology, culture, and geopolitics while<br />
living on a historic 130-foot sailboat that<br />
transports them along the U.S. East Coast<br />
and around Cuba.<br />
The crew left New England on Sept.<br />
9 with plans of docking in Washington<br />
in mid-October to lobby Congress for<br />
increased U.S. engagement. But on Sept.<br />
29, the State Department issued a travel<br />
By Julienne Gage<br />
warning for Cuba in response to mysterious<br />
sonic incidents that left at least two<br />
dozen embassy staffers and family members<br />
in Havana with medical ailments<br />
such as hearing loss, dizziness, and headaches.<br />
The State Department contends<br />
these incidents were the result of sonic<br />
weapon “attacks,” and while it has not<br />
directly blamed Cuba for launching them,<br />
it does hold the government responsible<br />
for protecting the safety of its diplomats.<br />
In response, it withdrew about 60 percent<br />
of its Havana embassy and expelled<br />
15 officials from the Cuban Embassy in<br />
Washington.<br />
Cuba has repeatedly denied involvement<br />
in these incidents, and high-ranking<br />
officials have accused the U.S. of withholding<br />
information on the investigation<br />
and questioned whether the alleged<br />
“attacks” are scientifically possible.<br />
Rather than turn back as U.S.-Cuba<br />
diplomatic ties soured, the Ocean Passages<br />
crew stayed the course to tell Congress<br />
why engagement is important.<br />
“We make a point to stop in Washington<br />
on the way there and back because<br />
even in calmer times, it’s a place where<br />
there’s always things to learn. We can<br />
also share what we’ve learned on our way<br />
back,” said Ocean Passages Counsel Steve<br />
Schwadron.<br />
Schwadron says participants’ willingness<br />
to continue onward saved some of<br />
the program, but the organization took a<br />
financial hit from several partnering institutions<br />
that backed out when they learned<br />
of the travel warning.<br />
Maine-based community college<br />
The Landing School, a national leader in<br />
boat building education, cancelled what<br />
would have been its third outing with<br />
Ocean Passages to offer boat building<br />
workshops to Cubans in Cienfuegos. Then<br />
the University of Southern Maine backed<br />
out of a memorandum of understanding<br />
that Ocean Passages was helping to broker<br />
with the Cuban government for a maritime<br />
study abroad program.<br />
“These instances, while poignant, are<br />
also happening to many other worthwhile<br />
programs,” said Schwadron.<br />
American travel associations such<br />
as the Center for Responsible Travel<br />
(CREST) and Responsible and Ethical<br />
Cuba Travel (RESPECT) are closely<br />
following these developments while<br />
planning a survey to measure the financial<br />
impact of similar tour operator pull-backs.<br />
They say it’s too soon to begin polling,<br />
including measuring the impact of the<br />
Trump administration recently issued new<br />
regulations that restrict U.S. business and<br />
travel in Cuba. Under the new rules, U.S.<br />
travelers on “people-to-people” educational<br />
trips must travel with an authorized<br />
travel group and cannot stay at hotels<br />
owned by the military.<br />
“It will be in December and January<br />
when the real impacts are visible,” said<br />
CREST Executive Director Martha Honey,<br />
noting that the U.S.-Cuba diplomatic<br />
crisis unfolded during Cuba’s low season<br />
for foreign visitors.<br />
Bob Guild, co-founder of RESPECT<br />
and vice-president of Marazul, the nation’s<br />
oldest Cuba tour operator agrees.<br />
“We ourselves have cancelled groups,<br />
and individuals have cancelled, but we’ve<br />
also had new groups requesting to go<br />
despite the travel warning. So it’s really<br />
hard to put a cost on it,” he said. He also<br />
noted that major airlines and cruise ships<br />
are reminding travelers that there are no<br />
confirmed cases of U.S. civilians injured<br />
by sonic occurrences in Cuba. Instead,<br />
they’re assuring passengers that millions of<br />
foreigners are still safely traveling to Cuba.<br />
One of the biggest concerns, however,<br />
is liability insurance.<br />
“Some schools needed to cancel not<br />
because the students, professors or parents<br />
were worried, but because they have risk<br />
assessment managers who automatically<br />
say the school can’t go if State Department<br />
puts up a travel warning,” Guild said.<br />
He said concerned institutions and<br />
tour operators should ask insurance<br />
companies for a waiver, and that could buy<br />
them more time to make a decision. Many<br />
programs, especially academic ones, aren’t<br />
scheduled to leave for Cuba until early<br />
next year.<br />
Chase Poffenberger, executive vice<br />
president for Academic Travel Abroad,<br />
which works in partnership with major<br />
educational and media institutions such<br />
as the Smithsonian, National Geographic,<br />
and The New York Times says waivers are<br />
one of several ways her organization does<br />
its due diligence.<br />
“We ask the traveler to acknowledge<br />
that he or she has read the warning and is<br />
comfortable proceeding before any money<br />
is at risk,” she said. This includes a warning<br />
in pre-trip materials and asking participants<br />
to sign a travel warning acknowledgement<br />
form are ways to make sure<br />
clients know the risks, Poffenberger added.<br />
Meanwhile, Schwadron wants to remind<br />
Congress, as well as globally conscious<br />
educators and tour operators, why these<br />
educational Cuba programs are vital to<br />
sound diplomacy.<br />
“We’re not just darting in and out.<br />
We become part of the community,”<br />
he said. “We’re being viewed as a good<br />
neighbor.” H<br />
30 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 CUBATRADE<br />
31
ENTREPRENEURS<br />
Breaking the<br />
advertising taboo<br />
Private sector ads,<br />
like those designed by La<br />
Pegatina, are carefully<br />
navigating restrictions to<br />
reach ordinary Cubans<br />
Story and photos by<br />
Victoria Mckenzie<br />
There’s a majority generation<br />
that grew up rejecting publicity<br />
Ares Perez, owner of La Pegatina, an<br />
advertising and design company<br />
Mario Gonzales, a two-time national<br />
motorcycling champion, quit racing a few<br />
years ago to open his own private motorcycle<br />
repair shop in his native Guanabacoa,<br />
a colonial town on the outskirts of<br />
Havana. His shop offers no signs that it’s<br />
open for business. Instead, he relies on<br />
silver dollar-sized stickers featuring his<br />
Motos Mario logo to send a message. The<br />
logo shows a rider silhouette with a flame<br />
trail; they are placed on the motorbikes he<br />
rebuilds from scratch.<br />
Gonzales admits he finds the<br />
self-promotion tactic distasteful. The<br />
sticker’s designer, Ares Perez, hardly seems<br />
surprised.<br />
“Advertising was always something<br />
taboo,” said Perez, sitting at his desk in the<br />
front office of La Pegatina, an advertising<br />
and design company a few blocks from<br />
Gonzales’ shop in Guanabacoa. His office<br />
looks like any small shop in the U.S., with<br />
computer workstations, printers, and a back<br />
room filled with sewing machines for textile<br />
design. But Perez says he has to work<br />
with pirated software, and the business still<br />
depends on a public wifi hotspot to connect<br />
with clients. Still, his office demon-<br />
strates early signs of an advertising sector.<br />
Before Raúl Castro’s economic<br />
reforms allowed for the emergence of<br />
a small private sector in Cuba, Perez<br />
wouldn’t have been able to raise a sign<br />
above his office – even though as a designer,<br />
he’s been permitted to operate as<br />
an independent entrepreneur for much<br />
longer. Perez graduated from Havana’s<br />
renowned Instituto Superior de Diseño in<br />
1996, at a time when artists and musicians<br />
were already allowed to obtain licenses to<br />
sell their work.<br />
But Perez’ chosen field was advertising,<br />
and he wanted to do more than<br />
just design uniforms and posters for<br />
government clients. The “opening,” as he<br />
describes policy reforms in both Cuba and<br />
the U.S., allowed his business to grow.<br />
But in a country where advertising<br />
has been banned for nearly five decades,<br />
openly promoting your own business<br />
can feel strange or even scary to many<br />
entrepreneurs. The exception to the ban<br />
on physical advertising is the use of small<br />
signs that entrepreneurs can display on<br />
their businesses, their cards, and flyers.<br />
Private advertising is still scarce in<br />
Cuba, says Perez, and tends to exist primarily<br />
on the internet. While public spaces<br />
can still only be used for propaganda or<br />
public service billboards, advertisements<br />
have sprouted exponentially on digital<br />
platforms.<br />
Perez understands why self-promotion<br />
is awkward for clients like Mario,<br />
who have spent most of their lives in a<br />
world without non-governmental advertisements.<br />
“There’s a majority generation that<br />
grew up rejecting publicity, that still<br />
doesn’t understand the necessity of promoting<br />
businesses,” said Perez, adding that<br />
millennials appear to be more comfortable<br />
with self-promotion, especially via the<br />
internet.<br />
Despite the taboo that still surrounds<br />
advertising, La Pegatina now has more<br />
private clients than state clients, because<br />
“private clients are feeling the pressure of<br />
competition,” Perez said. And he prefers it<br />
that way; with the private sector, “there’s<br />
less paperwork and we can take any means<br />
of payment – check, cash, installment.<br />
With the government sector, we can only<br />
ask for checks.” H<br />
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />
CUBATRADE<br />
33
American Airlines and the Flight Symbo logo are marks of American Airlines, Inc.<br />
oneworld is a mark of the oneworld A liance, LLC. © 2016 American Airlines, Inc. A l rights reserved.<br />
Mayor Sylvester Turner,<br />
Executive Officer of Houston<br />
A the entrance to Havana<br />
Harbor: Pierre Le Moyne,<br />
founder of Mobile<br />
TOURISM<br />
Getting a Little Respect<br />
Concerns that U.S. visitors could overwhelm Cuba’s tourism<br />
infrastructure sparked the creation of a group devoted to<br />
‘sustainable’ tourism<br />
In four decades of handling U.S. travel<br />
to Cuba, Bob Guild was used to seeing<br />
mainly Cuban-Americans visiting family<br />
and a stream of non-Cubans with deep<br />
interests in the island, from art to history<br />
to socialism. But what happens when<br />
that trickle becomes a tsunami and new<br />
U.S. visitors, who know little about Cuba,<br />
simply seek bragging rights for a trip to a<br />
long-forbidden place?<br />
Guild and fellow Cuba travel veterans<br />
Gail Reed and Walter Turner mulled that<br />
question as the Obama administration<br />
began expanding rules for U.S. travel to<br />
the island, allowing individuals to visit<br />
without groups and authorizing commercial<br />
airline and cruise service.<br />
Their answer: A new organization<br />
called Responsible Ethical Cuba Travel,<br />
or RESPECT, which set out principles<br />
to guide U.S. travel service providers<br />
organizing trips to Cuba. Those 17<br />
principles include promoting mutual<br />
understanding (not regime change),<br />
pursuing sustainable development, and<br />
encouraging U.S. visitors to learn about<br />
Cuba from Cuban sources. They also call<br />
for advocacy to end all restrictions on<br />
American travel to Cuba.<br />
RESPECT formally launched in<br />
December 2016, with Guild (of Marazul<br />
Charters), Reed (of medical nonprofit<br />
MEDICC), and Turner (of human-rights<br />
group Global Exchange) as its co-coordinators.<br />
They hope RESPECT can serve<br />
as a forum to exchange views with Cuban<br />
organizations and help solve problems<br />
for group members, who include travel<br />
agents, tour operators, nonprofits, and<br />
academics.<br />
This September, dozens of<br />
RESPECT’s 150-plus members gathered<br />
in Cuba to discuss plans, including<br />
application for nonprofit status and hiring<br />
part-time staff. But as talks began, the<br />
Trump administration warned Americans<br />
not to travel to Cuba and halted issuing<br />
new U.S. visas from Havana, citing alleged<br />
“sonic” attacks against U.S. diplomats.<br />
The group quickly issued a statement<br />
of opposition. “We fear that such<br />
hasty action by the Trump administration,<br />
independent of scientific evidence, may be<br />
motivated by politics rather than health<br />
and well-being,” co-coordinator Turner<br />
said in the communiqué.<br />
At the meeting, members worried<br />
Trump’s moves would undermine their<br />
By Doreen Hemlock<br />
Keeping it Real: Walter Turner and Bob Guild in Havana with fellow travel veterans.<br />
travel programs. That includes the Cuba<br />
initiative of Pennsylvania’s Arcadia<br />
University, which has sent more than 200<br />
students to study in Cuba since 2013, simultaneously<br />
bringing Cuban scholars to<br />
its campus. “Part of normalizing relations<br />
is having a two-way exchange, and we<br />
hope to keep that,” said Angelica Salazar,<br />
the program’s resident director in Cuba.<br />
Tom Popper, president of insight-<br />
Cuba – which has brought nearly 20,000<br />
Americans on people-to-people tours to<br />
Cuba – said he joined RESPECT out of<br />
concerns over maintaining Cuba’s distinct<br />
identity as tourism booms. “Today, you<br />
go to a nightclub in Cuba, and they play<br />
the most up-to-date techno and then they<br />
play a 60-year-old song, and everyone<br />
knows the words and sings it at the top of<br />
their lungs,” said Popper. “RESPECT is<br />
about honoring and preserving that.”<br />
Popper hopes RESPECT can<br />
encourage tour groups to travel outside<br />
of Havana to avoid over-concentration.<br />
And he hopes newcomers to Cuba’s travel<br />
industry will embrace sustainability. “The<br />
tough part is being tempted by the quick<br />
buck, instead of building your business for<br />
the long-term,” Popper said. H<br />
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COMING IN<br />
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www.perfectionservicesltd.com<br />
JANUARY<br />
• Economic Predictions<br />
A look at the year ahead for Cuba’s economy<br />
• Medicine in Cuba<br />
Medical training for US students<br />
• Greening the Economy<br />
How entrepreneurs are growing money from trees<br />
• Energy<br />
Azcuba’s plans for energy from sugar<br />
34 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 CUBATRADE<br />
Book today at aa.com or call your local travel agent.<br />
HOUSTON SPECIAL REPORT Vol. 1 • No. 6 • JUNE 2017<br />
TRUMP’S CUBA POLICY: WHAT IT MEANS FOR BUSINESS<br />
THE PROMISE OF ZED MARIEL<br />
Cuba’s special industrial zone<br />
THE NEW STAR OF HAVANA<br />
Kempinski’s grand opening<br />
BOOSTING NESTLE’S CUBA BRAND<br />
The Swiss firm doubles down<br />
TOBACCO COUNTRY<br />
Tourism transforms Viñales<br />
The Magazine for Trade & Investment in Cuba<br />
June/July 2017<br />
HOUSTON<br />
OUT<br />
FRONT<br />
A special report on the<br />
Texas metropolis and its<br />
outreach to Cuba<br />
CUBA<br />
HOW TO TRAVEL TO CUBA NOW: SPECIAL REPORT<br />
The Magazine for Trade & Investment in Cuba<br />
August 2017<br />
SISTER CITIES<br />
Mobile’s long relationship with<br />
Havana, yesterday and today<br />
THE MILITARY FOOTPRINT<br />
How much of the economy is theirs?<br />
GRANTS FOR ENTREPRENEURS<br />
The U.S. government program<br />
THE CORPORATE FALLOUT<br />
Business reactions to Trump<br />
TIME TO TEE UP?<br />
Cuba’s quest for more golf<br />
35
CUBA’s<br />
ENERGY<br />
REVOLUTION<br />
With cheap oil from Venezuela drying up, Cuba pushes forward with<br />
plans to expand oil and gas production while shifting to renewable<br />
energy. The goal? To become energy independent<br />
By Doreen Hemlock<br />
RISING TO THE DEMAND?<br />
Cupet workers ascend a refinery tank.<br />
When the Soviet Union collapsed in 1991, Cuba lost its hefty<br />
supplies of subsidized Soviet oil that it used domestically<br />
and sold on world markets for hard currency. Cuban farmers<br />
turned from tractors to oxen and city dwellers from buses to bicycles,<br />
as imported oil and foreign exchange dwindled.<br />
Struggling with blackouts, the country began an aggressive drive<br />
to develop its own oil and gas production. Later, it supplemented<br />
domestic supplies with heavily subsidized oil from Venezuela.<br />
Now, as Venezuela’s economy nosedives and shipments of subsidized<br />
Venezuelan oil shrink, Cuba again is pushing to become more<br />
energy independent. The island wants to lure investment to expand<br />
oil and gas production. It’s also shifting into renewable energy, aiming<br />
to burn more sugar waste and other biomass as fuel and to install<br />
new solar and wind farms, often with foreign partners.<br />
This energy report looks at the most recent developments.<br />
36 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />
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37
PART ONE: OIL & GAS<br />
CUBA’s OIL ZONES<br />
While there may be oil in the waters of the Gulf of Mexico<br />
off the coast of Cuba, the island is aiming its fossil fuel<br />
future, at least in the near term, on land-based operations<br />
Cuba produces nearly half the oil and gas it uses, but that still<br />
leaves a yawning, expensive deficit. To cut the cost of importing<br />
the shortfall, the government wants to produce more.<br />
Drilling for oil far from the island’s shore is a tough and<br />
expensive sell for the global oil firms that Cuba needs to help<br />
develop its potential reserves, but there is interest among foreign<br />
investors in expanding production in wells on land—and using<br />
pipes that extend horizontally into the sea to grab oil near the<br />
coast line.<br />
State oil group Union Cuba Petroleo (Cupet) hosted an<br />
energy, oil and gas conference in Havana in late September to<br />
tout business opportunities for drilling and other energy-related<br />
services in Cuba. More than 200 people attended from 70-plus<br />
companies, representing countries as diverse as the United States,<br />
China, Australia, Trinidad & Tobago, Lebanon and Ireland.<br />
Center stage at the event: Melbana Energy Limited, the<br />
small, publicly-traded Australian company that this year raised<br />
$5 million for an onshore block just east of the Varadero oil field,<br />
Cuba’s most productive to date. Melbana signed a production<br />
sharing agreement with Cuba in 2015 to explore the block and<br />
has been assessing its potential since then. It now aims to drill<br />
two onshore wells on the block starting mid-2018 at a projected<br />
cost of between $20 million and $30 million, and it’s looking for<br />
additional partners to help finance the project, said Peter Stickland,<br />
Melbana managing director and chief executive.<br />
“The block is a lot better than we thought when we first<br />
started looking at it,” Stickland told Cuba Trade. He estimated<br />
its exploration potential at 12 billion barrels of oil equivalent in<br />
place, and its recoverable potential of around 600 million barrels,<br />
more oil than the Varadero field. He’s optimistic about finding<br />
partners, since Melbana previously brought in Brazil’s Petrobras<br />
and Italy’s ENI for projects in Australia. Indeed, the company<br />
already has started the permitting process for its wells and has<br />
hired Cupet’s former director of exploration, Rafael Tenreyro, as<br />
its Cuban representative to handle requirements.<br />
Cuba made headlines for decades in its search for oil in deep<br />
waters offshore in the Gulf of Mexico, not far from where rigs<br />
operate in U.S. and Mexican waters. Spain’s Repsol and other<br />
companies have drilled four deep-water wells since 2004 but<br />
made no commercially viable finds. Repsol alone reported spending<br />
more than $100 million in its Cuba ventures.<br />
Expensive explorations of offshore oil potential such as these<br />
are less likely going forward, say analysts, especially in an era of<br />
lower oil prices. Oil majors now prefer to drill offshore where<br />
they know there are deposits to pump, and “Cuba’s offshore oil<br />
reserves have not been proven,” said Jorge Piñon, who leads the<br />
Latin America and Caribbean Energy Program at the Jackson<br />
School of Geosciences of The University of Texas at Austin.<br />
Onshore drilling in Cuba holds promise because of its proven<br />
track record, industry leaders say. Cuba now gets its domestic<br />
production – roughly 45,000 barrels of oil and 3 million cubic<br />
meters of gas per day – from wells drilled on land. While many<br />
have pipe systems that extend as far as three miles out to sea to<br />
pump oil from coastal waters, onshore drilling and production<br />
is much cheaper than offshore because it doesn’t require supply<br />
ships or tankers or rigs in the sea.<br />
“We’re one of the few countries in the world where almost<br />
all the wells are horizontal, and we do it ourselves,” Cupet engineer<br />
Eredio Puentes Gonzalez told Cuba Trade. “We’re used to<br />
working in unfavorable circumstances. So, our philosophy is to<br />
find solutions not only based on engineering but ingenuity.”<br />
Cuba needs onshore investment, however, because its existing<br />
wells are maturing and their production declining – onshore<br />
output has slipped 11 percent in the past decade or so. To raise<br />
production, Cuba needs either to find new productive wells or<br />
employ new technologies to boost output from existing ones<br />
through so-called “secondary recovery,” said Puentes Gonzalez.<br />
U.S. oil industry veteran Lee Hunt, a partner in Texas<br />
consulting firm Hunt Petty LLP, thinks U.S. companies could<br />
get involved in Cuban oil despite Washington’s embargo. Recent<br />
U.S.-Cuba accords call for cooperation dealing with oil spills<br />
and pollution in coastal waters, and much of U.S. oil equipment<br />
aims to protect the environment. Hunt would like the U.S.<br />
government to grant export licenses to sell such U.S. products as<br />
booms, dispersants, and containment devices to Cuba. “With U.S.<br />
purchases, Cuba could reduce the cost of a [drilling] operation by<br />
up to 50 percent,” partly by slashing delivery time on items now<br />
bought in distant China and Europe, Hunt told Cuba Trade.<br />
Houston-based attorney Felix Chevalier said there’s talk of<br />
forming a U.S. Energy Coalition on Cuba, similar to the U.S.<br />
Agriculture Coalition for Cuba, to pursue energy development on<br />
the island and advocate an end to the U.S. embargo. Meanwhile,<br />
under current U.S. law, companies can begin talks with potential<br />
partners for Cuba projects that may be allowed later.<br />
“Sooner or later, the embargo will be lifted,” Chevalier told<br />
a panel discussion in Havana at the Cuba Energy Oil and Gas<br />
conference, organized largely by Global Event Partners of the<br />
United Kingdom.<br />
Some non-U.S. companies are seeking a foothold in Cuba’s<br />
energy industry now before the U.S. embargo ends and before<br />
they face full-on U.S. competition. Among them: businesses from<br />
Trinidad & Tobago, the twin-island nation off Venezuela’s coast<br />
with a rich history in oil and gas. They see a chance to replace<br />
Cuba’s supplies from struggling Venezuela – and to help their<br />
nation become more global.<br />
The National Gas Company Group of Trinidad & Tobago is<br />
interested in developing pipes, storage, and other infrastructure to<br />
supply cooking gas to the central part of Cuba, from Camaguey<br />
to Cienfuegos, said Alvin Dookie, business manager at group<br />
affiliate Phoenix Park Gas Processors Ltd. The likely price tag<br />
for the project: $50 million to $150 million. Trinidad could also<br />
supply the cooking gas for the project, substituting for gas that<br />
Cuba currently buys from Venezuela or other traders. “Our differentiator<br />
is that we are a producer, not a trader” and can ensure<br />
long-term supplies from an island relatively close by, said Dookie.<br />
“If the U.S. embargo is lifted, our comparative advantage goes<br />
away because of U.S. proximity. But right now, Cuba can’t access<br />
U.S. barrels.”<br />
To be sure, foreign companies face challenges in entering<br />
Cuba’s oil and gas business, as Trinidad’s Perfection Services<br />
Limited learned. The small business offers drilling fluids, inspections,<br />
training, and other services for wells. CEO Desmond<br />
Roberts first worked with Cuba in 2004 in a project linked to<br />
Repsol’s deep-water drilling. But when Perfection Services registered<br />
as a commercial supplier in Cuba – a requirement to submit<br />
contract proposals – the process took more than 18 months.<br />
What’s more, securing contracts may require offering Cuba<br />
credit for longer periods than in other countries, squeezing profit<br />
margins. But Perfection Services’ business manager David Soverall<br />
said he prefers steady, long-term relations to big, fast bucks. “If we<br />
know we have a five-year contract, we know we are eating little and<br />
living long,” Soverall said, using a typical Trinidadian expression.<br />
Longer-term, Cuban officials remain confident that major<br />
oil companies will find commercially viable deposits in its deep<br />
waters offshore to help meet the island’s needs. Cupet has been<br />
working with BGP, a division of China’s National Petroleum Co.,<br />
to offer investors more detailed seismic studies and maps of the<br />
ocean floor to help with exploration and potential drilling. Said<br />
Cupet’s business manager Pedro Urquiza: “If God gave oil to<br />
Mexico and the United States, we surely got some too.”<br />
38 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />
CUBATRADE<br />
39
PART TWO:<br />
RENEWABLE ENERGY<br />
As part of its drive to achieve energy<br />
independence, Cuba is pushing to derive<br />
nearly a quarter of its power from renewables<br />
by twelve years from now<br />
Cuba has set a goal to produce 24 percent of its electricity from<br />
renewable sources by 2030, up from about 4 percent in 2014.<br />
Here’s the strategy for that $4 billion-plus plan, as told to Cuba<br />
Trade by Rosell Guerra Campaña, director of renewable energy<br />
at Cuba’s Ministry of Energy and Mines.<br />
The presentation, offered in Spanish, has been edited for<br />
space and clarity.<br />
Rosell Guerra: Our energy policy aims to reduce dependence on<br />
imported fossil fuels and make the environment more sustainable.<br />
By generating 24 percent of our electricity from renewables in<br />
2030, we can substitute 1.5 million tons of fossil fuel per year and<br />
cut carbon dioxide emissions by 6 million tons per year.<br />
To meet our objective, we aim to install 2,284 MW in major,<br />
new generating capacity powered by renewables. That includes<br />
25 biomass plants with a capacity to produce 872 MW, 14 wind<br />
farms that can produce 656 MW, solar parks that can produce 700<br />
MW, and small hydroelectric plants that can produce 56 MW.<br />
The investment for imported equipment and other supplies for<br />
those projects likely will run about $4 billion. And that’s not including<br />
outlays for locally-made products or domestic agriculture.<br />
There’s progress already. So far this year, the state has reached<br />
agreements with foreign companies on renewable energy projects<br />
worth more than $1 billion.<br />
BIOMASS: Of the 25 new bioenergy plants we seek, four have<br />
secured financing and are being developed by the state sugar group<br />
Azcuba. Seven are being negotiated as joint ventures with foreign<br />
partners, including the Ciro Redondo project now under construction.<br />
And there are 14 more projects available in the investment portfolio<br />
open to investors. Azcuba is handling all the biomass projects.<br />
WIND: Of the 14 new wind farms, the state electric company<br />
Union Electrica has financing to develop three. At least<br />
two European companies are looking to develop the others as<br />
100 percent foreign-owned projects. They would sell electricity to<br />
the Union Electrica through power-purchase agreements. Banks<br />
want those companies to measure the wind at the farm sites for a<br />
year before they lend money for turbines and installation. So, the<br />
companies now are working on those studies.<br />
SOLAR: Last year, we built 22 photovoltaic solar parks in<br />
Cuba, and this year, we’re building another 32. With the financing<br />
we’ve secured and negotiations with investors, we expect next<br />
year to add 56 more parks with a capacity of 224 MW, including<br />
100 MW in projects with foreign partners. Things are advancing<br />
so fast that we may increase our plans for generation from new<br />
solar parks from the initially proposed 700MW to 1,200MW by<br />
SWEET ENERGY<br />
State sugar group Azcuba is overseeing plans<br />
for 25 new bioenergy plants<br />
adding more parks to the investment portfolio.<br />
HYDROELECTRICITY: The new hydroelectric plants<br />
will be small, mostly in mountainous areas. They’ll be added on<br />
existing dams to the exit channels for water used for irrigation<br />
and other purposes.<br />
INSTALLATIONS ON HOMES: We aim to install<br />
200,000 more solar water heaters on homes by 2022, helping to<br />
cut dependence on electricity from power plants. Studies show<br />
each solar water heater saves the grid an average 22 kilowatt<br />
hours per month. The government is subsidizing the price of<br />
the heaters, and it’s modernizing and expanding the factory in<br />
Morón in Ciego de Avila province where the heaters are made.<br />
There also are plans to install 20,000 more solar panels on<br />
homes, schools and other buildings not connected to the grid,<br />
mainly in rural areas.<br />
PRIORITY: The renewables program has top priority for<br />
Cuba, because it helps increase our energy independence and reduces<br />
our energy costs. Less expensive energy spurs the economy.<br />
There’s a social component in all this. Our system guarantees<br />
a minimum level of electricity to residents at very low, subsidized<br />
prices [currently starting at less than 1 U.S. cent per kilowatt hour<br />
and rising progressively based on consumption.] Several years<br />
ago, when oil prices were higher, Cuba was producing electricity<br />
at a cost of about 20 cents per kilowatt hour. Today, with oil prices<br />
lower and some efficiencies, our production cost is down, likely<br />
to around 12 cents per kilowatt hour. But the more we can reduce<br />
the production cost, the better for the state and for the society.<br />
Renewables help the environment, too. While Cuba is not<br />
a major polluter in global terms, the electricity sector is the top<br />
source of emissions in the country. Shifting to renewables can<br />
stem pollution.<br />
CHALLENGES: Financing is a challenge, of course. But<br />
Our energy policy aims to reduce<br />
dependence on imported fossil fuels and<br />
make the environment more sustainable<br />
Rosell Guerra Campaña, director of renewable energy<br />
the government has modernized the law and rules for foreign<br />
investment. We’ve had foreign investors in energy in Cuba for<br />
decades in the oil and gas sector. Canada’s Sherritt International<br />
is a partner in gas venture Energas, which has been producing<br />
electricity for the grid since the 1990s. Energas has expanded<br />
operations numerous times, proof that private production of<br />
electricity for the grid can work.<br />
STRENGTHS: Some countries have conflicts in energy<br />
policy, because their electric companies discourage energy<br />
production outside their own large power plants. But in Cuba,<br />
we encourage “distributed energy” through smaller plants and on<br />
homes. One reason is that our country gets hit by hurricanes, and<br />
with smaller production units we can isolate different parts of the<br />
system when one part is damaged by a storm. We’ve also learned<br />
that the closer energy production is to the user, the smaller the<br />
losses in the distribution system. It’s more efficient.<br />
40 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />
CUBATRADE<br />
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PART THREE:<br />
HERE COMES THE SUN<br />
On the sun-drenched island of Cuba,<br />
the problem with solar power is not<br />
technology or an adequate supply of<br />
solar radiation. It’s financing.<br />
Cuba is preparing to open its first solar park 100 percent-owned<br />
by foreign investors. Hive Energy of the United Kingdom aims<br />
to start construction mid-2018 on a 50MW project in the Mariel<br />
Special Economic Development Zone, one of the largest solar<br />
ventures on the island.<br />
Hive Energy was awarded rights to the project in May 2016,<br />
and it signed an agreement in September 2017 for Cuba’s electric<br />
company Union Electrica to buy the power generated from the<br />
solar park for 25 years, said Bernardo Fernandez, the company’s<br />
director for Latin America and the Caribbean. Now, as Hive is<br />
seeking funds to build the project at a cost topping $67 million,<br />
Fernandez told Cuba Trade: “We have to be creative.”<br />
Financing is a key challenge for energy projects in Cuba today,<br />
because the communist-led nation is not a member of international<br />
financial institutions like the World Bank (see story page<br />
58). And while Cuba recently renegotiated its debt with countries<br />
in the Paris Club, it does not have a strong track record in payments<br />
over decades. What’s more, the U.S. embargo and potential<br />
fines from Washington boost the perception of risk, making some<br />
private non-U.S. banks skittish about Cuba business.<br />
“And the Trump presidency has made matters more difficult<br />
for financing,” said Matthew Perks, CEO of New Energy Events,<br />
which organizes the annual Caribbean Renewable Energy Forum.<br />
To finance its project, Hive is asking potential equipment<br />
suppliers in China to extend long repayment terms for their<br />
products, and it’s reaching out to development banks in the<br />
Netherlands and other European nations. Once the solar park<br />
is up and running, it would pay those funders with money received<br />
from Cuba’s electric company for the energy purchased,<br />
said Fernandez.<br />
Hive Energy launched in 2010, tapping incentives for renewables<br />
in the United Kingdom. As those incentives waned, the<br />
company expanded overseas. It now has offices in Spain, Mexico,<br />
Argentina, Mauritius, and Turkey.<br />
In Cuba, Hive’s project enjoys special benefits because of its<br />
location inside the Mariel zone, recently created to lure foreign<br />
investment. Ventures in Mariel pay lower taxes than elsewhere on<br />
the island. They also have access to a “one-stop shop” for government<br />
assistance in permits and other paperwork.<br />
The one-stop office “fast-tracked our project and allowed us<br />
to eliminate roughly six months worth of permitting that we’d<br />
SOLAR PROLIFERATION<br />
Cuban government officials say they may expand their<br />
solar energy production goals<br />
have had to do anywhere else on the island,” Fernandez told the<br />
Caribbean conference in Miami this October.<br />
Yet even in Mariel, land is not owned by foreign ventures.<br />
Hive has a 25-year right of use.<br />
Hive plans to build its Mariel solar project in three separate<br />
sites about seven kilometers (about four miles) apart. Until the<br />
Zone gets more factories that can use the energy, each site will<br />
feed power into the grid bound for a different province: Artemisa,<br />
Havana, and Pinar del Rio, said Fernandez.<br />
Being the first 100-percent foreign-owned solar company<br />
authorized in Cuba presented some challenges, of course. While<br />
Cuban officials understood the project development process<br />
in general terms, they were unfamiliar with some specifics for<br />
renewables, such as the financing mechanisms, Fernandez said.<br />
Cuban officials now are moving up the learning curve, he<br />
told the Caribbean conference. Thanks to that learning, Fernandez<br />
is optimistic that Cuba will produce 24 percent of its<br />
electricity from renewables—though it may take a bit longer than<br />
2030 because of extra time needed to secure financing.<br />
Hive’s funding plan is similar to that of Havana Energy of<br />
There’s real tangible progress in Hive<br />
Energy signing the power-purchase<br />
agreement and Havana Energy securing<br />
finance for its first plant<br />
Matthew Perks, CEO of New Energy Events<br />
the United Kingdom, which acquired capital from China; Havana<br />
Energy’s first joint-venture plant with Cuba’s state sugar group<br />
obtained supplier credit from the Shanghai Electric Co. Now,<br />
Havana Energy is looking to develop wind and solar projects in<br />
Cuba too, said CEO Andrew MacDonald.<br />
“There’s real tangible progress in Hive Energy signing the<br />
power-purchase agreement and Havana Energy securing finance<br />
for its first plant,” said New Energy Events’ Perks. “The big question<br />
remains: Will finance flow to more Cuban projects, given the<br />
current political situation?” H<br />
42 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />
CUBATRADE<br />
43
Where To Invest<br />
in Cuba Today:<br />
The New Portfolio<br />
The latest portfolio highlights Cuba’s<br />
economic aspirations in a refreshingly<br />
frank way, but it glosses over what<br />
has stalled foreign investment for years<br />
By Nick Swyter<br />
As a play to attract much-needed foreign investment, each<br />
year Cuba unveils a portfolio of projects open to foreign<br />
participation to kick off the Feria Internacional de la<br />
Habana, the country’s largest annual general interest trade fair.<br />
The 2017 portfolio is the largest Cuba has unveiled since it<br />
first started sharing the reports in 2014. It contains 456 project<br />
proposals open to foreign participation – up from 396 in 2016.<br />
The opportunities represent more than $10.7 billion in potential<br />
foreign investment into sectors such as tourism, biotechnology,<br />
construction, energy, agriculture, and mining.<br />
The portfolio is presented in a refreshingly frank way that<br />
makes it necessary reading for any potential investor. It details the<br />
country’s investment advantages, legal structures, and expectations<br />
from foreign investors. Each investment proposal includes<br />
information on the project’s location, estimated costs, nature of<br />
partnership with Cuban parties, and contact information.<br />
What’s missing from the pages of the 300-page report is<br />
a candid discussion on the obstacles for investment in Cuba. It<br />
doesn’t mention the prolonged approval processes, restrictive<br />
hiring requirements, lack of wholesale markets, and financing<br />
restrictions that are emblematic of doing business on the island.<br />
Nevertheless, there are signs Cuba is gradually confronting<br />
the issues stalling foreign investment. Minister of Trade and<br />
Foreign Investment Rodrigo Malmierca Díaz opened this year’s<br />
trade fair by announcing that Cuba had attracted about $2 billion<br />
in investment agreements so far this year – enough to meet<br />
Cuba’s goal of capturing $2 to $2.5 billion a year. By comparison,<br />
Malmierca opened the 2016 trade fair by announcing that Cuba<br />
had only captured $1.3 billion in the two years following the<br />
approval of a law that eased restrictions on foreign investment.<br />
But approving projects with foreign participation doesn’t<br />
necessarily guarantee money will immediately pour in. About<br />
$2.5 billion of Cuba’s recent foreign investment approvals have<br />
come from deals with Spanish, British, and Chinese investors to<br />
develop luxury golf resorts. It’s not clear when those resorts will<br />
44 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />
be completed, or even break ground.<br />
Pressure will likely mount for the Cuban government to<br />
accelerate foreign investment in the coming year. The Cuban<br />
economy contracted by 0.9 percent in 2016 – marking the country’s<br />
first recession since the “special period” of the ‘90s. While<br />
the Cuban economy showed some promise of recovering in<br />
the first half of 2017, Hurricane Irma hampered several crucial<br />
sectors such as tourism and agriculture. Those factors, along with<br />
plummeting oil deliveries from Venezuela and souring relations<br />
with the U.S. leaves Cuba with few options but to find more<br />
international business partners.<br />
Those seeking to play a role in the future of the Cuban economy<br />
will benefit from reading the new portfolio. It offers many<br />
clues, albeit few guarantees, on how the Cuban economy will<br />
transform after Raúl Castro leaves the presidency next year.<br />
Priorities<br />
The 2017 edition of the foreign investment portfolio provides<br />
details on which sectors of the Cuban economy have momentum<br />
and which ones need a revival.<br />
Tourism remains a priority for the Cuban government since<br />
it produces much-needed foreign currency. The 2017 portfolio<br />
lists 152 proposals – up from 114 in 2016. The proposals include<br />
opportunities to build and commercialize new hotels; management<br />
contracts for existing hotels; management and expansion<br />
contracts for marinas; the establishment of an equestrian club;<br />
upgrades to a restaurant and food plaza; the creation of nature<br />
parks; development of a sport fishing and diving center; and the<br />
construction of several water parks.<br />
Tourism in Cuba is one of the few sectors that shows real<br />
promise. The Ministry of Tourism recently reported it welcomed<br />
more than 4 million tourists in the first ten months of 2017 –<br />
topping last year’s 4 million mark in spite of Hurricane Irma<br />
causing some cancellations.<br />
Preparing for the coming visitor boom: Construction workers restore a<br />
building on the edge of Plaza Vieja in Old Havana. Tourism projects top<br />
the list of international investment opportunities in the new Portfolio.
Top: Pages from the 2017-2018 Foreign Investment Portfolio<br />
Center left: Oil refinery of the government owned Comercial Cupet S.A.<br />
Center right: A farmer in Holguín province carries bananas<br />
Bottom left: A bulldozer sits next to a construction site in Old Havana<br />
Bottom right: Tourists enjoy a horse ride in Viñales province<br />
The Cuban government appears to have a clear plan on how<br />
to steadily increase tourist arrivals. Understanding there soon<br />
might not be enough hotel rooms for the growing supply of tourists,<br />
the government has set a goal to increase the total number of<br />
rooms from the current 60,000 to about 108,000 by 2030. Until<br />
then, the government has partly dealt with the room shortage by<br />
approving several U.S. cruise lines and allowing more Cubans to<br />
open private bed-and-breakfasts called casas particulares (though<br />
the Cuban government recently suspended the issuance of new<br />
licenses for casas particulares, private restaurants and several<br />
other private sector activities).<br />
The government also appears to be enthusiastic about expanding<br />
the variety of its accommodations. The opening of the Gran<br />
Hotel Manzana Kempinski, the first Cuban hotel to meet international<br />
5-star rating standards, shows Cuba is attempting to attract a<br />
wealthier clientele. Several proposals to develop eco-tourism parks<br />
and accommodations shows an interest in welcoming adventure<br />
travelers. The approval of luxury golf resorts, despite their undefined<br />
future, also demonstrates a willingness to try new things.<br />
While the abundance of tourism proposals demonstrates momentum<br />
in that part of the economy, the other sectors with more<br />
than 50 proposals in the portfolio show a need for transformation.<br />
The 2017 portfolio lists 104 proposals in agro-food – an<br />
increase from the 76 proposals in 2016. There is an urgency to<br />
stimulate food production because the country imports anywhere<br />
from 60 to 80 percent of its food. The government has continually<br />
stumbled in reducing dependence on imports, so the emphasis<br />
on agro-food proposals may reflect the government’s willingness<br />
to invite foreign partners.<br />
The portfolio’s agro-food chapter mostly consists of proposals<br />
to domestically produce imported commodities, as well as some<br />
projects that aim to export certain crops. There are proposals to<br />
boost domestic production of commodities such as poultry products,<br />
beef, pork, seafood, dairy products, rice, corn, fruits, and vegetables.<br />
There is also a proposal to produce wheat, which the country<br />
does not currently produce domestically in spite of it regularly<br />
importing more than $200 million worth of the crop annually.<br />
There are also several agriculture-related proposals that aren’t<br />
aimed at food production. Cuba has recently had success exporting<br />
marabú charcoal and is seeking partners to boost production for<br />
exportation and for use at biomass plants. There are also proposals<br />
aimed at refrigeration and boiler services, avian vaccines, exotic<br />
leathers, flowers, wood boards, pine resin, and small boat repairs.<br />
Not included in the agro-food chapter are several proposals<br />
aimed at food processing. They appear in the Mariel Special Economic<br />
Development Zone (ZED Mariel) chapter, which means<br />
there are tax incentives and long-term contracts available to food<br />
processing investors.<br />
Besides agro-food, energy is one of the sectors of the Cuban<br />
economy that desperately needs revitalization. Cheap oil deliveries<br />
from Venezuela are plummeting and Cuba is pushing the limits<br />
of its existing domestic land wells. The energy shortage has led to<br />
regular blackouts and fuel rationing. The 78 oil proposals in the<br />
2017 portfolio aim to explore potential oil reserves. The 13 renewable<br />
energy proposals aim to generate energy from other sources.<br />
The portfolio lists 76 blocks Cuba is interested in exploring<br />
because they may hold untapped oil reserves. Nineteen of<br />
the blocks are on land, eight are in coastal waters, and 49 are in<br />
Cuba’s section of the Gulf of Mexico.<br />
Four previous attempts to explore oil reserves in Cuba’s<br />
section of the Gulf of Mexico were unsuccessful. Industry leaders<br />
have shown reluctance to invest millions of dollars into deep-sea<br />
exploration in Cuba (see story page 44) especially at a time when<br />
global oil prices are low. At the moment, it’s more feasible for oil<br />
investments to focus on Cuba’s land and coastal blocks.<br />
The portfolio also lists a proposal for “secondary recovery<br />
contracts for deposits being exploited.” Put simply, this means<br />
Cuba needs foreign investment to extract oil from places it’s<br />
known to exist, but needs new methods to acquire.<br />
There is also a proposal for a fuel storage base in the province<br />
of Matanzas, where the majority of Cuba’s oilfields exists.<br />
Besides oil, Cuba is also looking at renewables to fulfill its<br />
energy needs. The Cuban government has set a target of producing<br />
24 percent of its energy needs from renewable resources<br />
by 2030. The portfolio lists 11 proposals for biomass plants, one<br />
proposal for a wind farm, and one proposal for solar farm. There<br />
are fewer proposals than last year, which is attributed to several<br />
projects recently earning approval.<br />
Besides proposals focusing on tourism, agro-food, and energy,<br />
the portfolio lists many other noteworthy opportunities. Potential<br />
investors are encouraged to read the chapters that detail opportunities<br />
in sectors such as water, construction, biotechnology, and<br />
mining.<br />
What’s new<br />
For the most part, the 2017 portfolio resembles last year’s edition.<br />
Many of the proposals are identical to the ones shared in 2016,<br />
which means they are still open to foreign participation.<br />
There are, however, several noticeable additions to the new<br />
portfolio.<br />
This year’s ZED Mariel chapter contains 50 proposals – up<br />
from 24 in last year’s portfolio. The proposals focus on sectors<br />
such as biotechnology, manufacturing, food processing, construction,<br />
transportation, and real estate. Some of the most notable<br />
additions to this year’s ZED Mariel chapter include an electric<br />
Oil<br />
Construction<br />
Agro-food<br />
Tourism<br />
46 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017
The Portfolio of Opportunities for<br />
Foreign Investment by Sector<br />
(number of projects)<br />
Sector 2016-2017 2017-2018<br />
Tourism 114 152<br />
Agro-food 76 104<br />
Oil 87 78<br />
Renewable Energy 23 13<br />
Sugar 13 7<br />
Mining 13 10<br />
Drugs and Biotechnology 15 15<br />
ZED Mariel 24 50<br />
Proposals listed in the ZED Mariel chapter have several advantages<br />
over the ones located in other parts of Cuba. The benefits include<br />
long-term contracts that can be renewed, a willingness to allow 100<br />
percent foreign ownership, and no tax on profits for the first 10<br />
years of operation.<br />
Total 395 456<br />
motorbike assembly plant; a metals transformation center; a<br />
mattress and pillow production plant; facilities that produce<br />
several types of containers; catering services; a sausage factory; a<br />
tile production plant; warehouse construction; and a solid waste<br />
management system.<br />
Proposals listed in the ZED Mariel chapter have several<br />
advantages over the ones located in other parts of Cuba. The<br />
benefits include long-term contracts that can be renewed, a<br />
willingness to allow 100 percent foreign ownership, and no tax<br />
on profits for the first 10 years of operation (and only 12 percent<br />
after that). ZED Mariel is also located next to a refurbished port<br />
and container terminal that Cuba hopes to turn into a transshipment<br />
hub for the Americas.<br />
Potential investors in several sectors have few options but<br />
to establish their projects in the zone. Nearly all the portfolio<br />
proposals with a focus on biotechnology and food processing are<br />
located in the three-year-old zone.<br />
ZED Mariel leaders also appear to be taking steps to<br />
correct an often-repeated criticism of doing business in Cuba:<br />
slow approval processes. Twelve of the zone’s 31 authorized<br />
users were approved this year, according to state-controlled<br />
media. The zone’s front office also recently created a “one-stop<br />
shop” to handle all the paperwork and approval processes for<br />
potential investors. The entity is intended to save potential<br />
investors from sharing project plans with countless layers of<br />
Cuban bureaucracy.<br />
Beyond ZED Mariel, there are several sectors with exciting<br />
new proposals featured in the portfolio. Cuba is now seeking<br />
the help of foreign investors to boost production of food such as<br />
seafood, soft drinks, wheat, vinegar, and pasta. In tourism, there<br />
are opportunities to build water parks, revitalize restaurants and<br />
food plazas, and create nature facilities for environment-oriented<br />
travelers. In construction, there are new proposals for beach<br />
dredging, a light fiber-cement panel factory, and a dry mortar<br />
production plant.<br />
The 2017 portfolio also includes an entirely new chapter<br />
focused on culture, which includes the audiovisual proposals<br />
from the previous portfolio. The chapter’s two new proposals<br />
aim to showcase Cuban performers and artists to international<br />
markets.<br />
US on the sidelines<br />
The Trump administration’s new sanctions on travel and business<br />
with Cuba undoubtedly limits U.S. companies from injecting certain<br />
foreign direct investment into Cuba. But the new regulations<br />
haven’t transformed the new portfolio into a blacklist either.<br />
In addition to adding restrictions on individual travel to the<br />
island, the new rules bar U.S. citizens from conducting transactions<br />
with a State Department list of 180 entities linked to<br />
Cuba’s military, intelligence, and security services. U.S. companies<br />
may still work with several state-owned enterprises and<br />
the private sector, but many of the new portfolio’s most exciting<br />
opportunities require a partnership with a banned entity.<br />
ZED Mariel was included on the State Department list,<br />
which means the zone’s 50 proposals are mostly off-limits to U.S.<br />
investors for now. Rimco, Caterpillar’s dealer for Puerto Rico and<br />
the eastern Caribbean, will be able to operate a planned dealer<br />
facility in ZED Mariel because it signed a deal with the zone a<br />
week before the new regulations were approved.<br />
The State Department list also includes GAESA, the Cuban<br />
military’s massive business conglomerate that owns prominent<br />
tourism companies such as Gaviota and Habaguanex. Gaviota<br />
owns the bulk of Cuba’s luxury hotels, marinas, and tour agencies,<br />
among other businesses. Habaguanex owns boutique hotels,<br />
restaurants, and stores frequented by tourists in Old Havana.<br />
To the discontent of several Cuban-American lawmakers,<br />
state-owned tourism companies such as Cubanacan and Gran<br />
Caribe do not appear on the State Department list. Both of those<br />
groups are seeking to sign management contracts with foreign hotel<br />
companies for properties of various sizes across the island. They<br />
are also seeking partners to build and commercialize new hotels.<br />
Nevertheless, many of the most attractive hotel management<br />
contract proposals remain in the hands of Gaviota. The company<br />
owns nearly all management contract proposals for large hotels<br />
with 5-star ratings.<br />
Proposals to manufacture furniture, repair boats, produce tin<br />
cans, and boost chicken meat output are also off-limits to U.S.<br />
companies because the involved Cuban party appears on the<br />
State Department list.<br />
However, the new regulations did not touch many of the<br />
trade embargo exceptions that allow U.S. companies to do<br />
business with Cuba. The exceptions include selling Cuba goods<br />
such as telecommunications equipment, food, medicine, medical<br />
devices, environmental protection equipment, and certain items<br />
that will be used by the private sector.<br />
The exceptions don’t represent the type of foreign direct investment<br />
Cuba urgently needs, but it keeps the door to Cuba open. H<br />
48 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />
CUBATRADE<br />
49
Top: The former home of Ricardo Subirana y<br />
Lobo, Cuba’s last ambassador to Israel<br />
Bottom: The skyline of Tel Aviv, Israel’s business<br />
and cultural capital<br />
ISRAEL’s ELUSIVE CUBA<br />
CONNECTION<br />
The two countries maintained<br />
informal contacts for years,<br />
helped along by Fidel’s underlying<br />
sympathy for the Jewish<br />
people...<br />
After decades of hostile relations, a trade delegation<br />
traveled from Tel Aviv to Havana in search of opportunities<br />
to invest in and develop new business in Cuba<br />
Story and photos by Larry Luxner<br />
Overlooking the coastal road hugging the Mediterranean<br />
Sea north of Tel Aviv, a cream-colored villa with a stucco<br />
roof sits surrounded by a high white concrete wall. To its<br />
immediate left is the Herzliyya Medical Center, and to its right, a<br />
glass-walled condo complex.<br />
There is no plaque, no marker—nothing to indicate that this<br />
mansion on Ramat Yam Street was once the house of Ricardo Subirana<br />
y Lobo—a prominent German-Jewish-Cuban businessman,<br />
confidant of Fidel Castro, and Cuba’s last ambassador to Israel.<br />
More than 44 years have passed since the Cuban flag<br />
fluttered proudly atop this villa. It came down in 1973, when<br />
Havana—in a show of solidarity with the Arab world—severed<br />
ties with the Jewish state following the Yom Kippur War.<br />
But the two countries maintained informal contacts for<br />
years, helped along by Fidel’s underlying sympathy for the Jewish<br />
people and the tenacity of an ex-Mossad spymaster declared<br />
persona non grata by the State Department. And ever since<br />
President Obama’s historic 2016 trip to Cuba, business ties have<br />
warmed up considerably.<br />
Consider the following:<br />
• In October 2016, for the first time ever, Israel abstained—<br />
along with the United States—in the annual United Nations<br />
ritual condemning the U.S. trade embargo. This allowed the<br />
resolution to pass the UN General Assembly by a vote of 191-0.<br />
• In early October, Culture Minister Miri Regev traveled to<br />
Cuba, marking the first time since 1973 an Israeli cabinet minister<br />
has set foot on the island. “This is a private family vacation<br />
and had nothing to do with her position as a government minister,”<br />
her spokesperson said of the trip, which was first reported by<br />
the Israeli newspaper Haaretz.<br />
• In early November, Cuba’s famed Lizt Alfonso Dance<br />
Company gave four sellout performances at the Tel Aviv Opera<br />
House, followed by concerts in Ashdod, Jerusalem, and Haifa.<br />
It was the first cultural visit of its kind to Israel in four decades.<br />
Cuba’s famous Buena Vista Social Club also plans to tour the<br />
country.<br />
• On Nov. 9, the Israel-Latin America Chamber of Commerce<br />
held a “Doing Business in Cuba” seminar in Tel Aviv.<br />
50 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017
Top left: Stained-glass menorah and map of Cuba in the<br />
Comunidad Or Jadash, a synagogue in Santa Clara<br />
Top right: Wilbert Wilson, a Jewish bartender who<br />
works at Havana’s Hotel Raquel<br />
Bottom: Havana’s Patronato, the largest of Cuba’s five<br />
still-functioning synagogues<br />
Attended by 40 or so Israeli business executives, the three-hour<br />
briefing, presented in Hebrew, was a prelude to the planned visit<br />
to Cuba of an Israeli trade delegation in December.<br />
That all this is happening in the absence of formal diplomatic<br />
ties between Havana and Jerusalem is even more incredible.<br />
“There is, of course, interest in renewing our relations with<br />
Cuba, along with other countries that severed their ties with<br />
us,” said Yoed Magen, director of the Israeli Foreign Ministry’s<br />
department of Central America, Mexico and Caribbean affairs,<br />
when Cuba Trade asked if such ties would be restored anytime<br />
soon. “But it’s not going to be that easy.”<br />
Earlier this year, Israel restored diplomatic relations with<br />
Nicaragua’s left-leaning Sandinista government after a seven-year<br />
hiatus, as part of a growing interest in Latin America that in<br />
September also saw Prime Minister Binyamin Netanyahu make<br />
the first-ever visit by an Israeli head of state to Latin America<br />
(he spent 10 days in Argentina, Mexico, and Colombia before<br />
heading to New York for a speech at the United Nations).<br />
Magen, a former Israeli ambassador to Panama and Colombia,<br />
acknowledged that “last year, we changed the way we voted on<br />
Cuba [at the UN] along with the Americans. However, U.S.-Cuba<br />
relations stand on their own. We don’t depend on them, and<br />
they certainly don’t depend on us. It’s much more complex.”<br />
Pushed for details, he added with a smile: “If there are secret<br />
talks going on [with Cuba] like there were with Nicaragua, we<br />
can’t comment on that. You know how it is.”<br />
Yes, we do. This year, following Donald Trump’s crackdown<br />
on U.S. travel to Cuba, Israel reversed course and went back to<br />
its traditional support of the embargo—voting, along with the<br />
United States, against the UN resolution to condemn it. Observers<br />
say the Jewish state, which depends heavily on U.S. military<br />
and economic aid, had little choice but to play along.<br />
A Friendship Gone Sour<br />
Israel and Cuba weren’t always at odds with each other. As far<br />
back as 1919, Cuba’s Senate recognized the Jewish people’s<br />
right to national independence, and in 1942—with the Nazi<br />
extermination of Jews already underway—it condemned “in the<br />
most energetic manner the persecution of the Hebrew race by<br />
the authorities of the Axis” (see story, “A brief, shining moment,”<br />
on page 28 to read about a new documentary that looks back at<br />
Cuba’s wartime rescue of 6,000 European Jews).<br />
Under the Batista dictatorship, which lasted from 1952 to<br />
1958, the island’s 15,000 or so Jews enjoyed unparalleled economic<br />
success in retail and manufacturing. And even when Fidel<br />
and his band of revolutionaries overthrew the Batista regime—<br />
and most of Cuba’s Jews fled to South Florida—those warm<br />
relations continued.<br />
“Israel was one of the first states to recognize the revolutionary<br />
government,” notes historian Margalit Bejarano, director<br />
of the Latin America, Spain and Portugal Division at Hebrew<br />
University in Jerusalem. “In the eyes of the Israeli government,<br />
the enthusiasm that surrounded Castro’s revolution was similar<br />
to the atmosphere of the nascent Israel in 1948. Foreign Minister<br />
Golda Meir offered technical assistance to Cuba, not only as a<br />
diplomatic tool, but because she felt an ideological affinity with<br />
the Cuban Socialist revolution and was committed to assisting<br />
developing countries.”<br />
Yet that friendship was not destined to last. Despite Fidel’s<br />
adamant opposition to anti-Semitism and his condemnation of<br />
Holocaust deniers, the Castro regime became closely identified<br />
with the Palestinian cause. After the Six-Day War of 1967, Cuban<br />
state media began attacking “Israeli aggression” and Havana<br />
quietly began collaborating with Yasser Arafat’s Palestine Liberation<br />
Organization to train guerrillas.<br />
American Jews and Cuban exiles soon discovered they had<br />
shared interests, especially when it came to influencing lawmakers<br />
in Washington. Joe Garcia, a former executive director of the<br />
Cuban American National Foundation who went on to represent<br />
Florida’s 26th congressional district in the House of Representatives,<br />
said the Miami-based CANF modeled itself after an<br />
even more powerful lobby: the American Israel Public Affairs<br />
Committee. In fact, one of CANF’s earliest employees was a<br />
Cuban-American woman of Jewish origin who had previously<br />
worked at AIPAC.<br />
Bejarano, in a 2015 article in the Israel Journal of Foreign<br />
Affairs, wrote that the September 1973 rupture of Cuban-Israeli<br />
diplomatic ties “was Castro’s personal, and apparently impulsive,<br />
decision,” and that it came after intense pressure from Libyan<br />
President Muammar Qadhafi at a non-aligned conference in<br />
Algeria. Cuban soldiers even fought alongside the Syrians in the<br />
Yom Kippur War, only a month after that conference.<br />
Cuba’s contempt for official Israeli policies continued, despite<br />
the eventual collapse of the Soviet Union which drove the<br />
island to economic desperation. Yet anti-Semitism was never a<br />
problem. For years, Cuba’s 1,000 or so Jews have received special<br />
rations for kosher meat, and under an arrangement code-named<br />
“Operation Cigar,” hundreds of them have been allowed to<br />
resettle in Israel. (In December 1998, Fidel himself visited the<br />
Patronato synagogue in Havana’s Vedado district, where he put<br />
a kipa on his head and helped light Chanukah candles. A photo<br />
taken during that two-hour visit hangs on the walls of the Patronato<br />
to this day.)<br />
But official respect for Jewish tradition didn’t easily translate<br />
into business deals.<br />
Moisés Asís, a former Hebrew teacher at the Patronato, now<br />
lives in Miami. He said that in late 1991, while on a U.S. lecture<br />
tour, the World Jewish Congress invited him to visit Israel on an<br />
extended trip that lasted until February 1992.<br />
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />
CUBATRADE<br />
53
Above: Rafi Eitan, one of the Mossad's most celebrated spies, turned a Cuban citrus orchard into a successful export operation<br />
Center: The Israeli-financed Miramar Trade Center along Havana’s Quinta Avenida<br />
Entrance to Jagüey Grande in Matanzas province, where in the early 1990s Israel’s Grupo BM<br />
turned a failed 40,000-hectare citrus orchard into one of Cuba’s most successful export operations<br />
“Later that year, two friends of mine who worked for Cuba’s<br />
Ministerio de Comercio Exterior arranged a meeting for me with<br />
that ministry’s Asia and Africa divisions. I told her that I had<br />
met some Israeli businessmen who had very good trade offers for<br />
Cuba,” he said. This included one proposal to buy all available alligator<br />
carcasses and fashion them into expensive purses, shoes, and<br />
jackets. Another involved selling Cuba pesticides, irrigation equipment,<br />
machinery and other essentials for the agriculture industry.<br />
In yet another proposed venture, Kibbutz Ga’ash, a coastal<br />
community north of Tel Aviv, hoped to sell Cuba emergency lamps<br />
with rechargeable solar batteries for public street illumination—at<br />
a time when the island was suffering daily blackouts—as well as<br />
battery-powered pens for detecting counterfeit U.S. currency.<br />
“The director replied, ‘It seems interesting, but we should<br />
consult first with the Palestinians.’ I was astonished,” Asís recalled.<br />
“Of course there was no further contact. After this, I understood<br />
that I had to bring out my family to live in another country.”<br />
From Espionage to Irrigation<br />
Rafi Eitan had much better luck.<br />
One of the Mossad’s most celebrated spies, Eitan was<br />
famous back home for having masterminded the 1960 capture<br />
of Nazi war criminal Adolf Eichmann in Buenos Aires. Less<br />
admirably, Eitan was also the handler for Jonathan Pollard—a<br />
U.S. Navy analyst who in 1985 was caught spying for Israel and<br />
sentenced to life imprisonment. Declared persona non grata by<br />
Washington, Eitan surfaced in Cuba, where his unusual friendship<br />
with Fidel landed the former spy his first contract with the<br />
Cuban government.<br />
Eitan’s company, Grupo BM, gradually turned a failing<br />
40,000-hectare citrus orchard near Jagüey Grande, in the province<br />
of Matanzas, into a successful export operation. BM later<br />
branched out into construction and real estate; in the mid-1990s,<br />
a joint venture under its control—Inmobiliaría Monte Barreto—built<br />
suburban Havana’s Miramar Trade Center, which today<br />
houses the offices of dozens of foreign companies<br />
Yet for years, Eitan’s secretive company refused to discuss<br />
its business in Cuba. Starting in 1994, this reporter visited BM’s<br />
Miramar office, and was immediately shown the door. A repeated<br />
attempt in 2002 also got nowhere. Even as recently as this July, a<br />
polite attempt to interview Sergio Meisler—the company’s Cuba<br />
representative—resulted in a brusque “we don’t talk to reporters”<br />
and a request to vacate the fourth-floor premises, whose walls are<br />
decorated with framed certificates of recognition from Aguas de<br />
La Habana, Quimimport, and other Cuban state entities.<br />
Ronen Peleg, BM’s export manager, finally opened up to<br />
Cuba Trade during a Nov. 9 seminar at Tel Aviv’s Industry House<br />
that was attended by the 90-year-old Eitan and dozens of executives,<br />
academics and potential investors.<br />
“It’s no secret that companies working in Cuba have problems<br />
because of the U.S. embargo,” the Madrid-based businessman<br />
told us. “Most of them try to keep a low profile and not get<br />
into trouble.”<br />
Peleg, 51, has been involved with Grupo BM since January<br />
1993. Over a 20-year period, the company’s involvement in the<br />
Jagüey Grande citrus operation helped generate $680 million in<br />
orange and grapefruit exports for Cuba.<br />
“This started out as a contract to finance and upgrade an<br />
existing citrus orchard,” he explained. “We didn’t invest our own<br />
money. What we brought was know-how and lines of credit from<br />
external entities.”<br />
BM is no longer involved in citrus, nor is it a shareholder<br />
in Monte Barreto, though its operations are still housed in the<br />
Miramar Trade Center’s Edificio Jerusalén—one of six buildings<br />
that make up Cuba’s largest office complex.<br />
Peleg says BM has about 20 employees and an annual turnover<br />
of $25 million. This comes from sales of tractors, agricultural<br />
equipment, fertilizer, irrigation technology and related machinery<br />
to various Cuban state entities. “In Cuba, everybody deals with<br />
the government,” he said. “There’s no other option.”<br />
A Jewish-Themed Hotel in Havana, Cuban Salsa<br />
in Tel Aviv<br />
Although Cuba and Israel have comparable populations (11.2<br />
million and 8.7 million, respectively), the similarities end there.<br />
Cuba, a communist dictatorship, is more than five times the size<br />
of Israel, yet its agriculture-based economy lags far behind that of<br />
democratic Israel, a high-tech Middle East innovator that’s given<br />
the world dozens of inventions ranging from the USB flash drive<br />
to drip irrigation and Waze GPS technology. The result: Cuba’s<br />
annual per-capita income barely reaches $7,000, while tiny Israel’s<br />
exceeds $37,000.<br />
Politically, Israel is among the most pro-American countries<br />
on Earth, siding with Washington on just about every resolution<br />
ever brought before the UN General Assembly. At the same time,<br />
Cuba’s vocal opposition to “U.S. imperialism” is legendary, as is<br />
Havana’s frequent attacks on “Zionist aggression” and the building<br />
of controversial Israeli settlements in the West Bank, which<br />
the Arabs consider occupied territory.<br />
Even so, Israelis seem fascinated with the Caribbean island,<br />
particularly among those whose have just finished their mandatory<br />
army service and want to explore some place besides India, Thailand,<br />
Peru, and other well-worn Israeli backpacker destinations.<br />
These days, Hebrew-speaking tourists can now be heard on<br />
the streets of Old Havana, and some establishments—including<br />
the Hotel Raquel with its Jewish-themed art, kosher-style menu,<br />
and Israeli music playing in the bar—have gone out of their<br />
way to accommodate them. These travelers are also drawn to the<br />
island’s five remaining synagogues (three in Havana including the<br />
Patronato, one in Camagüey, and one in Santiago de Cuba) for<br />
Shabbat dinners and Jewish cultural events.<br />
In Israel itself, Cuba seems to be the rage. Movie posters at<br />
Tel Aviv bus stops advertise an upcoming Buena Vista Social<br />
Club concert, while on Yehuda Macabi Street, the Devidas cigar<br />
shop sells a variety of premium Cuban stogies. On weekend<br />
nights, Israeli youths flock to Alma de Cuba to perfect their<br />
salsa-dancing skills.<br />
Ronen Paldi, an Oregon-based tour operator whose Israeli affiliate,<br />
Polaris International, has been licensed to sell Cuba packages<br />
since 2002, says 7,000 to 10,000 Israelis travel to the island every<br />
54 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />
CUBATRADE 55
Top: A Hebrew-language advertisement for Cuba’s popular Buena Vista Social<br />
Club graces a bus stop along Yehuda Macabi Street in northern Tel Aviv<br />
Bottom: Israeli executives attend a Nov. 9 seminar in Tel Aviv on doing<br />
business in Cuba<br />
year. Even though Cubana de Aviación has an agent in Tel Aviv,<br />
Israelis must still obtain visas through Cuba’s consulate in Athens.<br />
But tourism can work both ways, he pointed out.<br />
“Cubans are starting to travel abroad, and not only to visit<br />
family,” said Paldi, interviewed at Tel Aviv’s Dan Hotel. “I’ve spoken<br />
at some churches in Cuba and see pilgrimages from Cuba to<br />
Israel taking place someday for both Catholics and evangelicals.<br />
When Israel will issue them visas and their finances allow, I’ll be<br />
the one organizing them. The Cubans love Israel and they will<br />
make it happen.”<br />
Paldi, who’s been to the island 41 times, calls Cuba a “virgin<br />
country” that could benefit tremendously from Israeli entrepreneurship<br />
and chutzpah.<br />
“Cuba desperately needs agriculture, and Israelis have a lot<br />
of products to offer. And, more than the Americans, they know<br />
how to work in corrupt and complicated societies like in Africa,”<br />
he told us. “But they don’t have patience, and in Cuba without<br />
patience you can’t move around.”<br />
Israeli Trade Mission to Visit Cuba<br />
Rodrigo X. Carreras, Costa Rica’s former ambassador to both<br />
Israel and Cuba, agrees that “great potential” exists for scientific<br />
cooperation between the two countries, especially in medicine<br />
and agriculture.<br />
“Shimon Peres asked me when I was leaving Israel, if I<br />
would look into the possibility of arranging for him a meeting<br />
with Fidel,” said Carreras, who was posted to Israel from 1988<br />
to 2001 (when Costa Rica’s embassy was still in Jerusalem)<br />
and then again from 2010 to 2016, after the embassy had been<br />
moved to Tel Aviv.<br />
“Fidel had made a declaration affirming the Holocaust as<br />
a reality. That reflected a certain goodwill. I transmitted that<br />
message to friends at the Cuban Foreign Ministry and also to<br />
one of Fidel’s sons,” Carreras told Cuba Trade. “From the Foreign<br />
Ministry, I never got a response, [but] from Dr. Antonio Castro,<br />
some interest. Finally, after a long time, I was told that as long as<br />
the [Israeli] occupation persists, they weren’t interested.”<br />
On the other hand, the fact that Israel is sending a trade delegation<br />
to Havana in December means attitudes among Cuba’s<br />
leadership are clearly shifting. For one thing, Fidel is dead. And<br />
with the uncertainty of continued oil subsidies from Venezuela<br />
and hostile signals coming out of Washington, the island clearly<br />
needs new friends.<br />
“I think the Cubans are very mature these days and very<br />
interested in having decent relations with everyone they can. They<br />
understand much better than before that the world has changed,”<br />
said one Havana-based observer who asked not to be named.<br />
“They’re not taking sides as much as they used to.”<br />
Carlos Alzugaray, Cuba’s former ambassador to the European<br />
Union and a frequent commentator on U.S.-Cuba relations,<br />
says his country’s future ties with Israel rest, to a large degree, on<br />
the Jewish state’s ability to make peace with the Palestinians.<br />
“I don’t think we in Cuba are unsympathetic to the Israeli<br />
tradition. I myself was a big fan of the kibbutz movement,” he<br />
told Cuba Trade recently. “But our attitude toward Israel is contradictory.<br />
As we see it, Israel bases its independence and self-determination<br />
too much on abusing the Palestinians and denying<br />
them their homeland. I don’t know if the Israelis will ever be able<br />
to extricate themselves from this problem.”<br />
In the meantime, business is business, and 15 or so Israelis<br />
participated in the first trade delegation of its kind ever to travel<br />
from Tel Aviv to Havana.<br />
The Dec. 5-7 trip, organized by the Israel-Latin America<br />
Chamber of Commerce, scheduled a seminar at the Hotel Nacional,<br />
a visit to the Mariel Export Processing Zone, and a dinner<br />
hosted by Grupo BM.<br />
According to a Hebrew-language flyer distributed at a Nov.<br />
9 briefing about the trip, “this is the first time in history that we<br />
are taking a delegation to this fascinating island. The local trade<br />
office got special authorization from the president [of Cuba] to<br />
host this delegation because of the special economic distress of<br />
Cuba. Israeli companies can turn this crisis into an opportunity.”<br />
Gabriel Hayon, CEO of the Israel-Latin America chamber,<br />
says the most attractive sectors for Israeli companies in Cuba are<br />
agriculture (poultry, fish, pigs, irrigation, citrus, fertilizer, seeds,<br />
and pesticides); water and sewage treatment; energy (especially<br />
wind and solar technology); food production (coffee, juice, and<br />
alcohol); real estate (offices, factories, and hotel management);<br />
chemicals (for local industry and agriculture); and pharmaceuticals<br />
(for both the local market and potential export to Latin<br />
America and the Caribbean).<br />
“I think Israeli know-how can contribute greatly to Cuba’s<br />
agricultural sector with industrialization—giving farmers better<br />
yields than they have today—and also in food production, implementing<br />
modern, innovative technology,” he said. “Those two<br />
points alone will reduce Cuba’s dependency on imports.”<br />
Hayon, who spent 15 years in the Dominican Republic<br />
where he ran factories and other business ventures, said that since<br />
Obama’s 2015 visit to Cuba, potential Israeli investors have been<br />
peppering him about opportunities there.<br />
“For several years, we were expecting things would improve<br />
in Cuba, and we realized this is the right moment,” he said. “Unfortunately<br />
it came at the same time Trump changed the rules of<br />
the game a bit, but that has nothing to do with us. Cuba is not an<br />
enemy of Israel.”<br />
Nonetheless, the Jewish state still doesn’t have an embassy<br />
in Havana, and with no sign of Washington’s 55-year-old trade<br />
embargo ending anytime soon, the last thing Hayon needs on<br />
his delegation is headaches. For this reason, he said, “I’m telling<br />
people, ‘If you carry a U.S. passport or work for an American<br />
company, don’t come.’” H<br />
56 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017
Cuba<br />
and the<br />
International<br />
Lending<br />
Agencies<br />
Cuba’s ascension to the<br />
international banking<br />
stage – needed for large<br />
infrastructure projects –<br />
seems inevitable.<br />
But when?<br />
By Richard E. Feinberg<br />
Failing to generate much in the way of merchandise<br />
exports, Cuba is chronically short of hard currency. The<br />
island economy must import everything from poultry and<br />
rice to gasoline, automobiles, and train engines – and there is<br />
never enough cash to go around.<br />
Meanwhile, the inherited capital stock deteriorates: houses<br />
crumble, tractors sit idle for lack of spare parts, aging sewage<br />
pipes and power lines leak water and electricity.<br />
Standing on the sidelines, waiting to provide badly needed<br />
relief, are the international financial institutions (IFIs). The<br />
International Monetary Fund (IMF), the World Bank Group, the<br />
Inter-American Development Bank (IDB), and two sub-regional<br />
banks – the Andean Development Corporation (CAF), and the<br />
Central American Bank for Economic Integration (CABEI)<br />
– routinely assist member countries struggling under foreign<br />
exchange constraints. Cuba was a charter member of the IMF and<br />
World Bank, but in the wake of the 1959 Revolution and conflicts<br />
with the United States, Cuba withdrew from both entities.<br />
The good news is that Cuba officially became a member of<br />
CABEI in August. The challenge going forward: Approving and<br />
executing a pipeline of development projects, enough to begin to<br />
address Cuba’s profound economic crisis, and to establish solid<br />
precedents for other international financial institutions to follow.<br />
Mired in a prolonged stagnation, it is hard to see how the<br />
Cuban economy can gain momentum without such multilateral<br />
financial assistance. Cuba’s poor country credit rating deters<br />
private lenders. With the disappearance of the Soviet Union, the<br />
collapse of the Venezuelan economy, and the apparent hesitancy<br />
of China and Russia to close financial gaps, Cuba has run out of<br />
open spigots of easy money.<br />
Another selling point for these five multilateral financial<br />
agencies is the valuable technical assistance – expert advice, indepth<br />
studies, and technical training – provided to their mem-<br />
bers. Over the years, some Cuban economists and business executives<br />
have received overseas training and experience; however,<br />
most have fallen behind global trends in corporate organization,<br />
technological innovation, and international market transactions.<br />
Embedded in IFI lending programs are knowledge in each of<br />
these critical spheres of economic development.<br />
Let’s take a closer look at the key functions of the five IFIs,<br />
their history with Cuba, and what it will take for Cuba to become<br />
a member in good standing.<br />
The International Monetary Fund<br />
With nearly one trillion dollars in available resources, the IMF’s core<br />
responsibility is to ensure the stability of the international monetary<br />
system. With 189 member nations, the IMF fulfills its missions in<br />
three ways: Country surveillance, lending to countries with balance<br />
of payments difficulties, and giving practical help including technical<br />
training to strengthen institutional capacities and skills.<br />
The most controversial of these functions is surveillance.<br />
Each year IMF staff engage in intense discussions with senior<br />
officials of member governments. These consultations – really<br />
negotiations – delve into sensitive policy matters, including<br />
exchange rates and monetary, fiscal, and regulatory policies. The<br />
agenda may also include longer-term reforms, ranging from<br />
social safety nets and pensions to agricultural pricing and labor<br />
market policies (the hiring and firing of workers).<br />
Based on the staff evaluations, the IMF provides medium-term<br />
loans to countries experiencing balance of payments<br />
problems. According to the Fund, “This financial assistance<br />
enables countries to rebuild their international reserves, stabilize<br />
their currencies, continue paying for imports, and restore conditions<br />
for strong economic growth….” Does this not sound like a<br />
good prescription for Cuba’s headaches?
There is also nothing to compel IMF member states to borrow<br />
nor to accept IMF advice and technical assistance. Countries<br />
that are not borrowing IMF funds can ignore staff advice. But<br />
members in good standing are expected to undergo periodic<br />
consultations, and to share internal data with IMF staff. That is<br />
the rub for Cuba – that IMF staff evaluations are available to its<br />
24-member executive board, which includes the United States.<br />
Nonetheless, Cuba was an original member of the IMF but<br />
withdrew in 1964 and repaid their one outstanding loan. Thus,<br />
there are no outstanding legal claims between the IMF and<br />
Cuba. The slate is clean and the contentiousness of the 1960s<br />
need not present an obstacle when Cuba seeks readmission.<br />
The World Bank<br />
With over 10,000 employees, the World Bank is especially well<br />
equipped to help alleviate the most pressing needs of the ailing<br />
Cuban economy. In 2016 alone the Bank’s worldwide lending<br />
commitments totaled $46 billion, supporting investments in<br />
such diverse areas as agriculture, infrastructure, private sector<br />
development, health, and education. In addition to financing<br />
projects, the Bank can provide quick-disbursing balance of payments<br />
monies (“development policy financing”) to help finance<br />
ambitious policy reform programs such as diversifying exports,<br />
improving the private sector investment climate, or reforming<br />
the state sector.<br />
Such programs also assess prospective impacts on the natural<br />
environment and on income distribution, and come with detailed<br />
monitoring and evaluation. In general, Bank financing requires<br />
that the borrowing nation be in good standing with the IMF.<br />
As with the IMF, Cuba was an original member of the<br />
World Bank but never borrowed from it. Fidel Castro rejected<br />
the World Bank early on in the Revolution, withdrawing Cuba’s<br />
membership in 1960. The Bank returned Cuba’s capital subscription,<br />
clearing all accounts. Membership in the World Bank would<br />
be contingent upon Cuba joining the IMF.<br />
The Inter-American Development Bank<br />
In 1959, the IDB was founded in response to Brazilian interest in<br />
focusing on inter-American cooperation for economic progress,<br />
and, from the U.S. perspective, to prevent “another Cuba.” Cuba<br />
never joined. There is a common misperception that Cuba’s<br />
non-participation in the Organization of American States (OAS)<br />
is an obstacle to IDB membership. In fact, Cuba has always<br />
remained a member of the OAS – the requirement for IDB<br />
membership – even though it has been denied a seat at the table.<br />
In the early 1960s, the OAS responded to the Cuban Revolution<br />
by revoking the country’s right to vote. In 2009 the OAS<br />
established a procedure for reinstating Cuban participation, but<br />
Cuba has chosen not to engage.<br />
Like the World Bank, the IDB both provides general balance<br />
of payments as well as project financing. While it is the largest<br />
shareholder, the U.S. does not exercise a formal veto power over<br />
most IDB loans or membership decisions. Rather, Latin American<br />
and Caribbean nations control the majority of voting shares.<br />
Where the resources await: World Bank Group headquarters<br />
The Sub-Regional Banks: CAF and CABEI<br />
Both CAF and CABEI provide members with financing for a<br />
wide assortment of development projects. The Latin American and<br />
Caribbean members control both banks. The U.S. is not a member<br />
of either entity, although both borrow on U.S. capital markets.<br />
In February 2017, then-CAF President Enrique Garcia announced<br />
in Havana that the Caracas-based CAF would provide<br />
technical assistance to the University of Havana, and help design<br />
a new Center of Innovation and Entrepreneurship. CAF may<br />
also support the training of Cuban business executives at Latin<br />
American business schools. As mentioned earlier, Cuba has just<br />
joined Tegucigalpa-based CABEI.<br />
The Path Ahead<br />
Marriages between the international financial institutions and<br />
Cuba would seem desirable and inevitable, and in the interests<br />
of all parties. The IFIs offer the products, money and ideas that<br />
Cuba so obviously needs to break out of its prolonged economic<br />
stagnation and accelerate sustainable development.<br />
But first, the Cuban government must initiate the membership<br />
application process at each IFI. So far, Cuba has felt<br />
more comfortable approaching the Latin American-dominated,<br />
sub-regional banks. Cuba has tread more cautiously with the<br />
leading IFIs (IMF, World Bank, IDB).<br />
Why? Probably the number one reason for Cuban reticence is<br />
IFI transparency requirements. The hermetic Cuban government<br />
shares information only very selectively. State-owned enterprises<br />
do not publish financial reports. The government has not released<br />
detailed data on its international capital accounts in years.<br />
Cuban authorities, so insistent upon national sovereignty<br />
and state autonomy, are not accustomed to having personnel from<br />
multilateral organizations combing over their internal accounts,<br />
no less offering advice on a broad range of delicate issues.<br />
Then there is ideological reluctance. Fidel Castro regularly<br />
railed against exploitative global capitalism, allegedly embodied in<br />
the IMF and World Bank. Any Cuban leadership will have some<br />
public explaining to do were it to invite in these two leading IFIs.<br />
Furthermore, many Cuban officials worry that IFI-advocated market-oriented<br />
economic reforms could weaken their political power.<br />
In addition, the Cuban government fears U.S. influence in<br />
the IMF and World Bank. Most immediately, various pieces of<br />
U.S. legislation, including the Helms-Burton Act, require that<br />
U.S. representatives oppose Cuban membership in the IFIs. The<br />
U.S. voting share in the IMF and World Bank executive boards<br />
More financing needed: Laying new drainage pipes in Havana<br />
is only 17 percent, well short of a veto power over membership<br />
decisions, which require only a majority vote. Nevertheless, the<br />
IFIs look to the U.S. for financial support, through Congressional<br />
appropriations and capital market borrowings. Hence, IFI executive<br />
boards are generally reluctant to irritate Washington.<br />
One path open to Cuba would be to first pursue its relations<br />
with the CAF and CABEI with greater vigor, where U.S. influence<br />
is less significant, and then turn to the IDB, where Latin<br />
American members predominate. In the end, however, it’s the<br />
IMF and World Bank where the lion’s share of resources awaits.<br />
Perhaps the new government that takes power in Havana<br />
next February will decide that it wants to accelerate domestic economic<br />
reform, and execute market-oriented changes. In that case,<br />
the political environment in the United States might turn more<br />
sympathetic toward Cuba – and toward Cuban accession to the<br />
international financial institutions, whose purposes would dovetail<br />
so beautifully with evident Cuban aspirations and needs. H<br />
Richard E. Feinberg is professor at UC San Diego, a non-resident<br />
senior fellow at the Brookings Institution, and author of Open for<br />
Business: Building the New Cuban Economy (2016). He has worked<br />
at the U.S. Treasury and Department of State, as well as for the<br />
National Security Council.<br />
60 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />
CUBATRADE<br />
61
A Bridge to Cuba<br />
The Tampa Bay cities of St. Petersburg<br />
and Tampa continue to pursue ties<br />
with Cuba, despite push back from<br />
the federal administration<br />
by Julienne Gage<br />
The Sunshine Skyway Bridge that crosses the entrance to Tampa Bay, home to the cities of St. Petersburg and Tampa<br />
A<br />
little over a year ago, under a national umbrella of rapprochement,<br />
Tampa Bay civic and business leaders were<br />
working tirelessly to reestablish centuries-old business and<br />
cultural ties with Cuba. Since then U.S.-Cuba relations have soured<br />
under the Trump administration, but Tampa’s leaders are still working<br />
to secure – and even build upon – the progress they made.<br />
Over the past two years, Tampa International Airport began<br />
offering daily commercial Cuba-bound flights and the Port of<br />
Tampa started sending cruise ships to the island. The University<br />
of Tampa and Stetson University’s College of Law sent students<br />
down. St. Petersburg’s Salvador Dalí Museum hosted a leccture<br />
by Ana Cristina Perera, director of the Museo National de Bellas<br />
Artes, and The Dali Museum’s director, Hank Hine, joined a<br />
2015 delegation to Cuba with St. Petersburg Mayor Rick Kriseman.<br />
Local marine scientists stepped up research and collaboration<br />
with their Cuban counterparts, and St. Petersburg even<br />
proposed having a Cuban consulate. Looking ahead, the Straz<br />
Center for the Performing Arts secured a deal to host the Ballet<br />
Nacional de Cuba for a one-night-only performance of Giselle.<br />
With new restrictions put in place by the administration in<br />
November, the coming year will put Tampa Bay’s Cuba commitment<br />
to the test.<br />
Yes, under the new rules, Cuba-bound flights and cruises can<br />
still leave Tampa Bay, and non-Cuban U.S. citizens are still allowed<br />
to visit the island if they travel in tour groups or are involved in<br />
activities such as research or humanitarian support. But the recent<br />
restrictions will have serious impacts. For example, the new regulations<br />
specify that U.S. citizens and companies cannot engage in<br />
transactions with any Cuban entity run by the country’s military.<br />
Among those entities is Cuba’s recently refurbished Port of Mariel,<br />
which the Port of Tampa had plans to work with as a partner.<br />
The proposal to open a Cuban consulate in St. Pete is on
132<br />
YEARS OF<br />
HISTORIC<br />
CULTURE<br />
Expanding Sealinks: Travelers from Tampa can now take multiple cruises to Cuba<br />
hold in the wake of the State Department expelling 15 officials<br />
from the Cuban Embassy in Washington, a response to the unexplained<br />
“attacks” on U.S. diplomats in Havana. The State Department<br />
also issued a travel warning and withdrew most of its<br />
Havana embassy staff in the lead-up to the diplomatic expulsion.<br />
The reduced embassy staff in Havana suspended visa processing<br />
for Cubans to travel to the U.S.<br />
In spite of these setbacks, the city commissions of both<br />
Tampa and St. Petersburg recently decided not to turn their back<br />
on Cuba. Rather than cancel an official October delegation to<br />
the island, they voted to go anyway, provided that participants<br />
paid their way with private funds.<br />
“We have a lot of work at stake and progress that we have<br />
made in shared future interests in topics like healthcare research,<br />
marine science, climate change, and sea level rise, so it’s important<br />
that we continue to cooperate and work together,” said St.<br />
Petersburg City Councilwoman Darden Rice.<br />
“Mainly it was to keep the relationship that Tampa’s had –<br />
the history – just to let them know we’re interested. We have a<br />
port that can handle whatever comes through them. If and when<br />
that day comes, we’re ready,” said Tampa City Council Chairwoman<br />
Yvonne Yolie Capín, noting that the mission was the first<br />
official Tampa City Council trip to Cuba since 1960.<br />
Tampa to Cuba Travel<br />
Tampa Bay has handled a large number of trips to Cuba for<br />
several years already. In 2011, Tampa International Airport began<br />
offering weekly direct charter flights to Cuba. Those weekly<br />
charters soon turned into daily service. Then in 2016, Southwest<br />
Airlines started flying direct from Tampa to Havana, Santa Clara<br />
and Varadero, though it recently stopped serving the latter two<br />
destinations.<br />
Meanwhile cruise lines, which started leaving the Port of<br />
Tampa for Cuba in the spring of 2017, continue to add new<br />
voyages. “Cruise business to Cuba only continues to grow at<br />
Port Tampa Bay. Both Royal Caribbean and Carnival Cruise<br />
Line call from Port Tampa Bay,” said Port of Tampa Director of<br />
Public Relations Samara Sodos. “Carnival Cruise Line just added<br />
five additional Havana cruises to their itinerary,” voyages that will<br />
come through the company’s Holland America Line brand.<br />
It’s difficult to tell exactly how many jobs have already been<br />
added thanks to Tampa-Cuba travel, but Patrick Manteiga,<br />
publisher of Tampa Bay’s La Gaceta newspaper and a participant<br />
in the October delegation, says thousands of Tampa Bay residents<br />
have benefitted.<br />
“It’s a huge deal,” he said. Travelers who transit through<br />
Tampa Bay not only spend money at the port and airport but<br />
also at area hotels, restaurants, museums, and shops on their way<br />
to and from Cuba. He estimated the region could have added as<br />
many as 6,000 new jobs had the Trump administration not rolled<br />
back the Obama-era opening.<br />
“I don’t know one thing the federal government could add<br />
that would overnight create that kind of work in Tampa,” he said.<br />
Capturing Cuba-Bound Travelers<br />
St. Petersburg business leaders want to show Cuba-bound travelers<br />
their city’s charms. Thanks to its quaint historic neighborhoods,<br />
picturesque waterfront, laid back lifestyle, and reasonable<br />
cost of living, the once sleepy city is having an economic and<br />
cultural renaissance, and community leaders believe engaging<br />
Cuba would make it even more compelling.<br />
“Any added visitor growth through Tampa airport or<br />
through the ports is going to flow towards St. Pete,” said Olga<br />
Bof, president of the small business association Keep St. Pete<br />
Local. “It’s to our benefit to help grow these links, to help grow<br />
these relationships.”<br />
In April, Bof, a Cuban-American who was born on the island<br />
and immigrated to Miami as an infant, rallied small business<br />
support for the consulate by organizing a "Cuban Pete" night.<br />
The event included a pig roast at the Cuban-inspired Bodega<br />
restaurant on St. Pete’s recently renovated Central Avenue. The<br />
festivities then moved on to a paella party at the Cuban restaurant<br />
Pipo’s, and partygoers ended the evening with spirits from<br />
the local Flying Boat Brewing Co. and Kozuba & Sons Distillery.<br />
In historic Ybor City, Tampa Bay’s Cuban roots run deep.<br />
Savor a hand-rolled Cuban-style puro made the same<br />
way for 130 years. Pass through the gates of the<br />
international park dedicated to José Martí, apostle of<br />
Cuban freedom. All before you hop on a flight or cruise<br />
to explore Cuba yourself. Treasure awaits.<br />
Countless ideas. Endless fun.<br />
VisitTampaBay.com<br />
FLORIDA’ s<br />
CULTURAL<br />
GETAWAY<br />
64 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017
TURTLES WITHOUT BORDERS<br />
Saving the sea turtle has become a U.S.-Cuba<br />
scientific partnership<br />
Long-finned mermaids may be maritime culture’s most celebrated ladies,<br />
but short-legged sea turtle moms probably should be. Every year, they swim<br />
thousands of miles, drag themselves onto beaches in Mexico, Cuba, and<br />
Florida, laboriously dig holes in the sand, then squeeze dozens of eggs from<br />
their bodies.<br />
“They’re a really key part of the ecosystems we’re interested in,” said<br />
Margo McKnight, senior vice president of conservation, research, and<br />
husbandry at The Florida Aquarium in Tampa. “They’re long-lived animals,<br />
they’re large-bodied animals, and they nest on beaches – historically in<br />
great numbers – which means they impact the ecosystems in a lot of positive<br />
ways.” These include consuming jellyfish, trimming back sea grass, and<br />
controlling sponge growth.<br />
McKnight and other ocean conservationists are hopeful these endangered<br />
creatures may have a positive impact on U.S.-Cuba relations. After all,<br />
turtles follow their instincts, not national borders. “They just use ancient<br />
pathways, and [their] nesting beaches are important to them regardless of<br />
what humans decide on land,” she said.<br />
Scientists at the Florida Aquarium first began engaging with their Cuban<br />
counterparts in 2014, just prior to the Obama administration’s opening.<br />
Even then, the U.S. embargo allowed for joint scientific research and collaboration,<br />
and now, despite a partial rollback of Obama’s policies, the aquarium<br />
expects to keep growing its Cuba programs.<br />
Given the vital role of sea turtles in restoring marine ecosystems, scientists<br />
are keen on protecting their nesting grounds across the Caribbean<br />
and Gulf of Mexico. The Florida Aquarium is contributing by helping Cuba<br />
build a research center on Cayo Largo key off Cuba’s southwest coast. It will<br />
help foot the bill by inviting U.S. “citizen scientists” to take curated eco-tours.<br />
Run in conjunction with the nonprofit marine conservation group The<br />
Ocean Foundation, the two-week trips will operate from summer to fall for<br />
about $4,000. They will include sight seeing in Havana, followed by evening<br />
sea turtle observation in Cayo Largo, where they will stay at all-inclusive resorts.<br />
“They not only see the sea turtles and the science being done, they<br />
assist in the science, said Katie Thompson, The Ocean Foundation’s Cuba<br />
program coordinator.<br />
66 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />
Bof says small businesses tend to employ more people than<br />
large companies, and in St. Pete, the majority of businesses are<br />
locally owned. When consular restrictions ease up, she would<br />
like to encourage St. Petersburg business owners to network with<br />
Cuban entrepreneurs.<br />
“We’re a think-local but act-global organization,” she said,<br />
noting how impressed she’s been with the expansion of farmto-table<br />
culture in both Havana and St. Pete. For now, she just<br />
wants visitors to know that dining and shopping in small St. Pete<br />
establishments will help them feel even more connected to the<br />
quaint, down-home life they discover on trips to Cuba.<br />
“It doesn’t make for a smaller life. It makes for a richer life,”<br />
she said, as she sipped a traditional Cuban coffee at Bodega.<br />
That’s something even conservative businesspeople such as<br />
Stephen Reyes, a Cuban-American accountant and participant<br />
on the October city councils delegation, agree with.<br />
Reyes says the people of Cuba “will drive their own change,”<br />
not by an outside force but by supporting their already expanding<br />
entrepreneurial endeavors. He also said the delegation<br />
allowed him to see how foreign travel has helped diversify Cuba’s<br />
small-business economy with everything from wedding pastries<br />
to cell phone repair services.<br />
“These are all spillovers of the economic prosperity from the<br />
tourism boom,” he said.<br />
Scientific Cooperation in the Gulf Stream<br />
Sea turtles, sharks, and other creatures pay no attention to the<br />
geopolitical climate as they travel between the U.S. and Cuba.<br />
But their survival depends on political decisions in both countries,<br />
as bilateral scientific exchanges continue to be important.<br />
Tampa’s Florida Aquarium is working on several scientific<br />
initiatives with Cuban marine biologists. Earlier this year, Florida<br />
Aquarium scientists traveled to Cuba’s western coast to assist<br />
Cuban scientists with the construction of a coral reef nursery.<br />
The Tampa team provided the structures – 15-foot plastic pipes<br />
that were anchored into the sea floor – and helped install them.<br />
Cuban scientists hope to bring some of the resulting coral trees<br />
to the Florida Aquarium for an exhibit in 2019.<br />
Margo McKnight, vice president of biological operations at<br />
the Florida Aquarium, says she’s concerned about the new regulations<br />
but confident her team will continue to collaborate with<br />
Cuba, provided it stays current on all rules and regulations. She’s<br />
grateful the Obama administration previously raised the profile<br />
of joint conservation projects.<br />
“We’re just trying to give ourselves as much time as possible to<br />
have all of our T’s crossed and our I’s dotted to make sure that we<br />
do great work and it’s not hindered by the new changes,” she said.<br />
“Anecdotally it seems like people are interested and excited about<br />
our work in Cuba. People love to hear the stories and there’s people<br />
who want to go and are interested in helping us in the field.”<br />
Interested parties may soon have that chance. The aquarium<br />
is helping Cuba set up a sea turtle research center in the<br />
same area it built the nursery. In 2018, it plans to offer “citizen<br />
scientist” educational trips in which ordinary U.S. citizens can<br />
legally travel to Cuba to study sea turtle hatching and migration<br />
between the two countries. (See sidebar)<br />
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American doctor-in-training, Graham Sowa, third from left, obtained his<br />
medical degree at Havana’s Latin American School of Medicine.<br />
MEDICINE... CUBAN STYLE<br />
A Tampa doctor-in-training aims to improve<br />
medical efficiency with Cuba-style care<br />
These days, it’s common for doctors to spend more time staring at a<br />
computer screen than talking face-to-face with their patients. But one Tampa<br />
Bay doctor-in-residency says Cuba taught him the value of doing it the<br />
old-fashioned way.<br />
Graham Sowa recently moved to Tampa after six years of study at Havana’s<br />
Latin American School of Medicine (ELAM). He says what Cuba lacks<br />
in supplies it makes up for in talent and ingenuity. He also says the skills he<br />
picked up there could benefit Tampa’s own medical approach.<br />
As a resident of the Brandon Regional Hospital System, Sowa rotates<br />
between hospital wards, out-patient facilities, suburban doctor offices, and<br />
free or low-cost clinics for patients who can’t afford care after hospitalization.<br />
“By being better stewards of those resources, I would hope that our<br />
institutions decide they can serve more people,” said Sowa in an interview<br />
with Cuba Trade. The Texas native knew when he enrolled in ELAM that he<br />
wanted to serve the public as a general practitioner – aka a primary-care<br />
physician – an area of U.S. medicine losing MDs to more lucrative specialties.<br />
A 2016 study by the Association of American Medical Colleges projected a<br />
shortage of as many as 35,600 primary care physicians by 2025.<br />
Thanks to a bilateral agreement between the U.S. and Cuba, several hundred<br />
American doctors are already working to bridge that gap after obtaining<br />
free medical training in Cuba. Graduates must conduct most of their residency<br />
as primary physicians in the nation’s neediest clinics and hospitals.<br />
Sowa says he is coming to understand American medicine in a whole<br />
new way, especially the tendency to rely on high-tech testing rather than<br />
basic care. Trouble shooting with fewer resources, he says, often translates<br />
to increased doctor-patient communication.<br />
“I think I have a higher threshold of tolerance for ordering tests off of<br />
one lab value than some of my colleagues, who really do a lot of decision<br />
making based off what they’re seeing on a computer screen,” he said.<br />
“[His approach] works well at the free clinic because you don’t have<br />
the luxury of ordering every test. You really have to know your basics,” said<br />
Dr. Yvonne Braver, who supervises Sowa as head of the Brandon Regional<br />
Hospital’s Internal Medicine in Training Program. Based on what she’s<br />
learned from Sowa, she calls the Cuban approach, “cost efficient, smart,<br />
kind, and everything medicine should be about.”<br />
68 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />
Bolstering Tampa Bay’s Medical Field<br />
The October delegation didn’t visit Cuba to pen any business<br />
contracts, only to discuss ideas for the future. But Cuban officials<br />
were keen on discussing potential pharmaceutical deals with the<br />
United States, especially for products such as CIMAvax, Cuba’s<br />
vaunted lung cancer vaccine.<br />
Tal Land, managing director at Talbot & Associates Healthcare<br />
Consulting in Tampa, was on the October delegation. He<br />
says large U.S. pharmaceutical companies are certainly interested,<br />
but negotiations are tentative – something their Cuban counterparts<br />
understand. “There was a real desire for normalization, but<br />
also a realistic attitude that it may be a while,” he said.<br />
Meanwhile in Tampa, Cuba has already provided medical<br />
knowledge to the healthcare community. U.S. doctor-in-training<br />
Graham Sowa recently graduated from Cuba’s Latin American<br />
School of Medicine (ELAM) and moved to Tampa to work in<br />
the Brandon Regional Hospital system.<br />
Thanks to a joint U.S.-Cuba medical education agreement,<br />
he did the entire seven-year program free of charge, provided he<br />
return to the U.S. and dedicate part of his two-year residency to<br />
serving underserved communities. As part of his residency, he<br />
works at the Brandon Outreach Clinic which offers free or lowcost<br />
care to some of the area’s poorest residents. And while many<br />
doctors specialize to increase their potential earnings in order to<br />
pay back medical school loans, Sowa says he’s in a good position<br />
to work as a general practitioner.<br />
Mayor Rick Kriseman says he’s glad to hear about the program,<br />
especially with the cost of healthcare skyrocketing.<br />
“He can teach our folks something about what he learned –<br />
how to look at things differently and find solutions they might<br />
not otherwise have thought of,” Kriseman said (see sidebar).<br />
Bringing Cuba to Tampa Bay<br />
St. Petersburg Mayor Rick<br />
Kriseman holds a photo of La<br />
Giraldilla, a historic piece of<br />
Havana architecture<br />
In the current diplomatic scenario, it’s far easier to get Americans<br />
to Cuba than it is to get Cubans to America. The Cuban diplomat<br />
expulsions have slowed, but not halted, visa processing for<br />
U.S. visitors. On the other side of the Straits of Florida, however,<br />
the U.S. Embassy in Havana has stopped processing visas for<br />
Cubans, advising them instead to apply at the U.S. Embassy in<br />
Colombia. That’s a tall order for Cubans who already have to pay<br />
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iselle<br />
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The Winning Team: International fellowship<br />
RACING TOWARD CUBA<br />
The return of the St. Pete-Havana regatta<br />
In 1930, a group of St. Petersburg yachters looked at a map of the<br />
Caribbean and decided the distance between their harbor and Havana<br />
was perfect for a middle-distance race. That year, they began<br />
a regatta tradition that would last just under three decades.<br />
“It’s not a long race but there can be some [turbulent] weather,”<br />
said St. Pete yachter Richard Winning. Politically speaking,<br />
that’s what Winning’s father discovered as the commodore of the<br />
1959 regatta, officiating the event just after the triumph of Fidel Castro’s<br />
revolution — and just prior to a five-decade freeze in U.S.-Cuba<br />
relations.<br />
In late February, Winning finally had the opportunity to pick up<br />
where his father left off, coordinating and then serving as commodore<br />
of a 2017 St. Pete-Habana Regatta. “It was a fabulous feeling to<br />
bring it back again,” said Winning. “We just want to go down and<br />
sail and be in fellowship with the two nations.”<br />
Sporting events such as this fall under the 12 approved categories<br />
of U.S. travel to Cuba, which existed before the Obama administration<br />
began easing restrictions for people-to-people engagement.<br />
However, the détente unleashed a rise in the number of Americans<br />
planning trips there, and Winning wanted to ride that wave.<br />
This year’s regatta consisted of 80 boats carrying 700 sailors.<br />
Among them were two boats of wounded warriors, a blind sailor,<br />
and a crew of Cubans who received bilateral approval to sail up to<br />
St. Pete and race home.<br />
In the old days, the regatta sailed straight into Havana Harbor,<br />
but this year participants sailed to nearby Marina Hemmingway. Winning<br />
says one of the highlights was meeting his Cuban counterpart,<br />
Commodore Jose Miguel Diaz Escrich, both of whom shared childhood<br />
memories of the crowds watching the race from their respective<br />
shores.<br />
“Back in the day, it was a huge promotional piece for the area<br />
because people traveled frequently from here to Cuba for weekend<br />
trips,” said Winning. “The race still promotes St. Petersburg and<br />
gets our name out there.”<br />
up to $160 in non-refundable visa fees, regardless of whether their<br />
application is accepted.<br />
This could mean that some Cuban artists hoping to travel<br />
to Tampa or St. Petersburg will have to wait – though The Straz<br />
Center for the Performing Arts in Tampa recently managed to<br />
wrangle visas for one of Cuba’s most important performance<br />
troupes: The Ballet Nacional de Cuba, which is still under the<br />
direction of legendary Cuban prima ballerina Alicia Alonso.<br />
The May 23 performance will be one of just five U.S. engagements<br />
for their 2018 Giselle tour. The ballet troupe will also<br />
perform at Washington, D.C.’s Kennedy Center and Chicago’s<br />
Auditorium Theater. Calling the event a “cultural victory” for<br />
Tampa Bay’s performing arts aficionados, Straz Center President<br />
and CEO Judith Lisi said the visit took three years of detailed<br />
coordinating. She credited the center’s namesake, David A. Straz,<br />
for pulling it all together.<br />
“I think it’s really inspirational to see what’s happening in the<br />
arts in Cuba,” Lisi told Cuba Trade. “We have so many Cubans<br />
here who still have family members there. They might be saddened<br />
by the politics but they still love the people and they’re proud of<br />
the people.”<br />
Straz, a longtime supporter of Tampa’s Cuba engagement<br />
effort, was also a participant on the October city commission<br />
delegation. “As someone who is devoted to the arts and supports<br />
artistic excellence for Tampa – and as someone fond of Cuban culture<br />
– facilitating the performance of the Ballet Nacional de Cuba<br />
is a dream come true,” he told the Straz Center.<br />
Keeping the Faith<br />
The vision for deeper engagement with Cuba inspired Vicente<br />
Amor, a former pastor in Cuba, to immigrate to Tampa to work in<br />
the travel industry. Today he is the vice president of ASC Travel,<br />
and spends much of his time coordinating high-profile delegations<br />
to Cuba, including the one from Tampa Bay in October. “Tampa<br />
has extraordinary potential and that makes me proud to be there,”<br />
he said.<br />
Amor says the introduction of commercial flights and cruises<br />
to Cuba, combined with the openings of the past administration,<br />
has emboldened Tampa Bay residents – many of them Cuban – to<br />
set aside fears of backlash from Cuban hardliners in Miami. Going<br />
a step further, he believes the region could be instrumental in<br />
changing Florida’s political attitude toward Cuba.<br />
Miami’s Cuban exile community “was very influential 40 or<br />
50 years ago,” Amor said. “Now American society and American<br />
politicians understand that their force no longer amounts to much.<br />
I believe Tampa has the potential to raise a voice that says, ‘We’ll<br />
engage with Cuba in a civilized manner with the country that Cuba<br />
is, not with the country we would like it to be,’” said Amor.<br />
Back at St. Petersburg City Hall, Mayor Kriseman hopes<br />
more Tampa Bay residents will come to that same conclusion, and<br />
he thinks a flight or a cruise to the island will help them.<br />
“Go because you want to experience the culture and the arts.<br />
Go because you want to experience the people and the community<br />
and the richness of the cities,” he said. “I think the more we travel<br />
there and build relationships, the more pressure gets put on both<br />
governments to find ways of working together, and that’s ultimately<br />
what we want to see happen.” H<br />
70 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017
Travel Directory<br />
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72 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />
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NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 CUBATRADE 73
Travel Directory<br />
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In addition to planning and<br />
booking flights, tours, hotels,<br />
houses, and car rentals – as<br />
well as helping you complete<br />
documentation, VaCuba has a<br />
shipment/cargo division that<br />
provides complete transit services<br />
for our clients. VaCuba can<br />
also send to your family in Cuba<br />
remittances, medicines, gifts,<br />
parcels, hardware, electronics,<br />
furniture, personal items, and<br />
much more. Our staff can help<br />
you with regulations and logistics<br />
for an effortless shipment. When<br />
it comes to any variety of service<br />
related to your travel experience<br />
or shipping needs, VaCuba<br />
offers guidance and provides<br />
solutions. Please call us at 305-<br />
649-3491 or go to www.vacuba.<br />
com. We are here to help you get<br />
to Cuba worry free.<br />
LOCATIONS:<br />
• MIAMI: 2994 NW 7th St. 33125<br />
• HIALEAH: 2900 W. 12 Ave. # 24 Hialeah<br />
33012<br />
• WESTCHESTER: 3721 SW 87 Ave. Miami<br />
33165<br />
You can reserve ONLINE at<br />
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or call our offices in South Florida<br />
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• HIALEAH GARDENS: 2794 West 68 th St.<br />
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Palm Beach 33405<br />
• SOUTH DADE: 11460 Quail Roast Dr. Cutler<br />
Ridge 33157<br />
• KENDALL: 13792 SW 152nd St. Kendall<br />
33177<br />
• TAMPA: 4801 Hillsborough Ave. # 405,<br />
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74 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />
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75
REPORTERS NOTEBOOK<br />
SCENES OF REGLA<br />
Top: The Russian Orthodox Cathedral as seen from a ferry that<br />
shuttles locals to Casablanca and Regla.<br />
Bottom left: A doll representing the Virgin of Regla or Yemaya<br />
in Santería.<br />
Bottom center: Children play on the streets of Regla.<br />
Bottom right: A Regla resident enjoys the view from a balcony.<br />
The Havana on the other side of the Harbor<br />
Regla and Casablanca have charms that might<br />
get lost after Havana Harbor is refurbished<br />
Words and photos by Julienne Gage<br />
There are many corners of the old colonial world where<br />
a sunset can invoke awe as it bounces off a glistening<br />
body of water and illuminates a historic skyline from<br />
every angle. But not all of them are as safe and as easy to access<br />
as the other side of the Havana Harbor. For those who want to<br />
see Cuba “before it changes,” now’s the time because the Cuban<br />
government has a massive plan to turn the harbor into a highend<br />
commercial district for yachting and tourism.<br />
Over the past two years, I’ve made several short expeditions<br />
across the harbor learning about Afro-Cuban culture in the village<br />
of Regla and small-scale tourism in the neighboring village<br />
of Casablanca.<br />
I first crossed the harbor in March of 2016 with Aimee Ortiz,<br />
a Miami-based Cuban émigré and fellow anthropologist who<br />
explained that Regla’s deep African roots make it a popular place<br />
for Santería. The term refers to a set of spiritual practices derived<br />
from West Africa’s Yoruba culture, and they are closely related to<br />
Haitian Vodou and Brazilian Candomblé.<br />
In fact, the centerpiece of this colonial village, which can be<br />
accessed by a 15-minute ferry ride, is a small chapel where a black<br />
Virgin has spent centuries watching over ships – especially ones<br />
arriving with slaves.<br />
“Don’t look,” warned Aimee, as we stepped off the ferry and<br />
spotted several santeras clothed in white cotton headscarves and<br />
peasant dresses with multicolored beads draped around their<br />
necks. It was hard not to. In a park outside the shrine to the<br />
Virgin of Regla, they laid out a tantalizing array of dolls, conch<br />
shells, and fortune-telling cards. As soon as their eyes met ours,<br />
they were reading our hearts and minds with alarming precision,<br />
then smacking us with long-stemmed white flowers – an act they<br />
swore would cleanse bad juju.<br />
“There! Now go throw these nasty dead flowers in that dumpster!”<br />
commanded one of the santeras. Awkwardly, but obediently,<br />
I walked to the dumpster, contemplating how much American<br />
pop culture promotes meditation and yoga retreats, while labeling<br />
Caribbean religions “superstitious.” Suddenly I found myself slam<br />
dunking those tattered flowers into the dumpster, and down with<br />
them my recent life stresses. The ladies hung a string of golden<br />
beads around our necks and we paid a $40 USD fee.<br />
76 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017
SCENES OF CASABLANCA<br />
Left: Havana Harbor as seen from Casablanca.<br />
Center, left: Locals stroll through the streets of Casablanca.<br />
Center, right: A mechanic leans against a vintage car.<br />
Right: Jo Bruns hugs his wife, Yiyi.<br />
The money was worth it. Temporarily released from the<br />
problems of this world, we practically floated down Regla’s pastel-painted<br />
colonial streets, taking photos of children playing tag<br />
and riding bikes, and old men playing dominoes.<br />
Regla is just the place to get back to the basics. Void of the<br />
touristy paladares common in Old Havana, you’ll be hard-pressed<br />
to find mojitos, daiquiris, and giant plates of ropa vieja (shredded<br />
beef ). More prevalent are living room storefronts selling fried<br />
cinnamon strips, donuts, and mantecas, Cuba’s version of shortbread<br />
cookies – comfort foods that made life sweeter as Cuba<br />
recovered from economic collapse in the 1990s.<br />
After a visit to local artist César Leal’s art school and gallery,<br />
we walked back to the ferry, our golden beads sparkling in the<br />
sun. Locals smiled as they proclaimed “Ochún,” the Santería<br />
goddess of love that the beads represent. On the ride home, the<br />
late afternoon sun illuminated the golden domes of Old Havana’s<br />
Russian Orthodox Church.<br />
In October 2017, I had another chance to cross the harbor,<br />
this time for Cuba Trade. The rickety old ferry terminal on the<br />
Havana side had been replaced with a modern, two-story glass<br />
structure, marking the first step in the harbor enhancement<br />
initiative. On its decks, dozens of locals and foreigners ate ice<br />
cream, talked business, or waited for the next ferry. I chose the<br />
one bound for Casablanca.<br />
Located about a half-mile from Havana’s emblematic Morro<br />
Castle, Casablanca earned its name for a white general store<br />
that used to serve customers in the narrow flatland between its<br />
steep hill and the rocky shore. But that was a few centuries ago.<br />
Today, it’s best known as the place where Che Guevara had his<br />
government office, a science observatory, and a massive Christ<br />
statue that the wife of former Cuban President Fulgencio Batista<br />
dedicated about two weeks before the 1959 Revolution. From the<br />
seawall along the Malecón Boulevard, the statue and the observatory<br />
draw the eye’s attention, but Casablanca’s charm lies in the<br />
labyrinth of homes climbing up its steep slope.<br />
I paid one Cuban peso to board the 15-minute ferry to<br />
Casablanca as the late afternoon sun cast its golden light. I<br />
figured there’d be time to hike to the top of the hill and down by<br />
sunset. I didn’t consider the likelihood of becoming enraptured<br />
with the town’s winding colonial architecture, stunning hilltop<br />
views, and warm, inviting residents.<br />
“Where are you going?” locals asked.<br />
“Just up there,” I responded, determined to see the glistening<br />
bay laid out between the main city and this tiny town. Each<br />
pause offered another amazing view and friendly character.<br />
“In any other country there might be some trouble, but this<br />
here is a free country,” Orlando de los Rios, a staunch supporter<br />
of the Cuban Revolution told me as he repaired a horse buggy<br />
and showed off the steeds he uses to transport tourists around the<br />
castle.<br />
It might have been wise to turn back as the last strong sunbeams<br />
disappeared behind Havana and a few drops of rain turned<br />
into just a few more, but who wants to cross the bay in drenched<br />
clothes? Two young mechanics repairing an old car in a shed<br />
offered temporary shelter from the storm, and just as I was asking<br />
what they knew of neighborhood development plans, a German<br />
man walked up to check on the car’s progress. It turns out he was<br />
the one to ask.<br />
During a business trip a few years ago, Jo Bruns met a young<br />
Cuban woman from Casablanca, fell in love, and married her.<br />
They now spend part of their year in Germany and part of it in<br />
Casablanca, where they’re helping several family members renovate<br />
homes to rent to visitors.<br />
Together, they’ve invested about $250,000 in renovations,<br />
and they’re committed to seeing the community thrive. Excited<br />
by the opportunity to show visitors what they were doing, he<br />
took me on a tour of the homes.<br />
“Little by little,” Bruns said, as members of his extended<br />
family unlocked doors and opened windows to photograph the<br />
views. Bruns paused as he noticed freshly placed bed linens in a<br />
room he thought was empty.<br />
“That’s Cuba. Sometimes you don’t even know who all has<br />
been staying at your place,” he said with a chuckle. He’s hardly worried,<br />
for he knows they’re likely members of his extended family.<br />
His bigger concern is how to attract the right kind of tourists,<br />
complaining that he and his wife want to rent to families, not<br />
drunken revelers looking to pick up prostitutes.<br />
He wishes other Cubans in the community had the seed<br />
money to open paladares (private restaurants), or even a language<br />
school. He knows those businesses will become more valuable<br />
once the Cuban government starts gentrifying the harbor.<br />
For now, he’s grateful for the tranquility. We walked up the<br />
path for a soda at one of Casablanca’s few and humble venues: a<br />
thatched roof shack and a couple of wooden tables in a clearing<br />
amidst the overgrowth. His wife Yiyi then joined us for a hike up<br />
countless hillside stairs until we reached the Christ statue, as the<br />
night fell and the moon illuminated its 320 tons of white marble<br />
against an indigo sky.<br />
“Cuba is a present to me. On my first day here, I was a total<br />
capitalist,” said Bruns, as he considered how he could help bring<br />
German investment to the island without ruining the slow pace<br />
and quiet he’s come to love in Casablanca.<br />
Staring up at Jesus, it’s hard to know what neighborhood<br />
outcome to pray for, but it’s easy to feel thankful for a short<br />
expedition like this. In some other place, a single traveler might<br />
be scolded for wandering around after dark, but street crime isn't<br />
prevalent in Cuba.<br />
Illuminating the path with an iPhone, we began our descent,<br />
now accompanied by a crowd of locals gingerly climbing down<br />
the labyrinth of steps and paths back to the village, and offering<br />
me a friendly sendoff at the ferry.<br />
I climbed aboard and stuck my head out the window just as<br />
the rain began falling again. This time I allowed it to refresh body<br />
and soul while getting a better view of both sides of the harbor. H<br />
78 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />
CUBATRADE<br />
79
in closing<br />
The Cuban people<br />
deserve better than the<br />
Trump administration's<br />
new regulations<br />
Emily Mendrala, Executive Director of<br />
Center for Democracy in the Americas<br />
In March 2016, Havana was electric in anticipation of<br />
President Obama’s visit, hopeful that relations between our<br />
two countries were finally on a path toward normal. Now, the<br />
Trump administration has released new, restrictive rules for<br />
engagement with Cuba — and yet, with two years of progress<br />
under our belt, it is clear a full reversal is impossible.<br />
The Cuban government dedicated significant resources<br />
in terms of manpower and infrastructure to ensure President<br />
Obama’s visit was a success, and they seemed pleased, albeit cautious,<br />
to welcome those U.S. officials willing to improve relations.<br />
The Cuban people were ecstatic, lining the streets for a<br />
glimpse of the presidential motorcade, waving American flags<br />
for a U.S. president willing to — as he said in remarks broadcast<br />
live across the country — “bury the last remnant of the Cold<br />
War in the Americas.”<br />
During the Obama administration’s two-year advancement<br />
toward normalization, our nations signed nearly two dozen<br />
agreements on issues such as law enforcement information<br />
sharing and environmental protection. Most importantly, they<br />
proved cooperation is possible and can bear fruit.<br />
I was in Havana again this June when President Trump<br />
announced he was “cancelling the last administration’s<br />
completely one-sided deal with Cuba,” appealing to a crowd<br />
in Miami’s Little Havana neighborhood who cheered the<br />
president’s rhetoric.<br />
The Cuban government response was fairly measured — an<br />
official statement “denounce(d) the new measures to tighten the<br />
blockade” as “doomed to failure,” but reiterated the country’s<br />
“willingness to continue the respectful dialogue and cooperation<br />
in areas of mutual interest.”<br />
The people of Cuba, however, were emotional. They expressed<br />
anger, at the U.S. president’s harsh words and demeanor;<br />
frustration, that the president’s remarks and policy directives<br />
were based on a false interpretation of the Cuba of today; fear,<br />
among the entrepreneurs whose livelihoods depend on U.S.-Cuba<br />
engagement; and sadness, among a populace who previously<br />
thought that the embargo, which has constrained their lives for<br />
decades, was finally nearing its end.<br />
But most profound was bitterness that they, the Cuban people,<br />
would remain pawns in the U.S. domestic political debate.<br />
Now, fulfilling the promises of President Trump’s June<br />
announcement, the administration has implemented regulatory<br />
changes to roll back U.S. engagement with Cuba. The changes<br />
will come amid a difficult bilateral context, one made all the<br />
more confusing by unexplained injuries suffered by at least 24<br />
U.S. diplomats in Havana. The U.S. government’s politicized<br />
response — expelling Cuban diplomats during an ongoing<br />
investigation and halting consular services in Havana — further<br />
muddies the waters. While U.S. officials haven't accused Cuba<br />
of causing the injuries, they have taken punitive steps that test<br />
diplomatic patience and separates families and friends across the<br />
Florida Straits.<br />
In spite of all this, formal and informal engagement continues.<br />
In September, the U.S. and Cuba held their sixth bilateral<br />
commission to discuss furthering progress in areas such as<br />
public health and safe, legal migration.<br />
U.S. businesses continue to pursue opportunities in Cuba.<br />
Days before the new regulations were published, U.S. heavy<br />
equipment companies John Deere and Caterpillar attended<br />
Havana’s annual trade fair. They announced deals to sell<br />
tractors, as well as open warehouse and distribution centers.<br />
Business ties like these are profitable and beneficial to the people<br />
of both nations; they grow jobs in both countries and, in Cuba,<br />
they provide the equipment needed to farm more efficiently and<br />
update aging infrastructure.<br />
U.S. travelers continue to flock to the island. By the end<br />
of May 2017, the number of U.S. travelers to Cuba had reached<br />
almost 285,000, surpassing the total for the entire 2016 calendar<br />
year. Today’s new travel rules still allow legal avenues for travel<br />
to Cuba.<br />
While detractors would try to thwart normalization efforts,<br />
our governments and our peoples can still choose to engage. If<br />
not, it’s the lives of the Cuban people that are most evidently<br />
altered by the ebbs and flows in Washington, and — at minimum<br />
— they deserve a U.S. policy that allows them to be the<br />
determinants of their own future. H<br />
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80 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017
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