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TAMPA-ST. PETERSBURG: A PRELUDE TO CUBA • ISRAEL’S CUBA CONNECTION<br />

The Magazine for Trade, Travel & Investment in Cuba<br />

November/December 2017<br />

CATERPILLAR AND JOHN DEERE<br />

Scoring Deals in Havana<br />

THE ENERGY REVOLUTION<br />

Plans for Oil, Sun and Wind<br />

THE BANKING PLAY<br />

Cuba and International Finance<br />

THE NEW RULES<br />

Breaking Down the<br />

OFAC Regulations<br />

WHERE TO<br />

INVEST IN<br />

CUBA NOW<br />

A Look at the Latest Priorities<br />

from the Government<br />

Déborah Rivas, the Director General<br />

for Foreign Investments at the Ministry<br />

of Foreign Trade and Investments


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Arkansas: Outfront on Cuba Trade<br />

Arkansas is leading the U.S. in economic and agricultural collaboration with Cuba. And because<br />

Arkansas is the nation’s number one producer of rice as well as a national leader in poultry, we’re<br />

a natural for sprinting to the front of the pack when it comes to food-source trade with Cuba.<br />

In Arkansas, we’re proud to help our neighbors to the south by sharing our resources and our<br />

expertise — which in the end will help both economies to grow and prosper.<br />

Arkansas’<br />

Business<br />

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With a booming economy that includes<br />

six homegrown Fortune 500 companies<br />

and a growing number of global<br />

business success stories, there’s more<br />

to Arkansas than meets the eye. Visit<br />

ArkansasEDC.com to learn how your<br />

business can become part of the scenery.<br />

ArkansasEDC.com | 1-800-ARKANSAS


content 11-12 /2017<br />

UP FRONT<br />

LIFESTYLE<br />

10 OPINION<br />

The question of whether to lift the<br />

embargo on Cuba has been a subject of<br />

debate for decades, but not for some<br />

12 PANORAMA<br />

Deals, events and transactions of note<br />

for trade and investment in Cuba<br />

16 IDEAS & INNOVATIONS<br />

Havana’s stray dogs are healthier<br />

and more approachable, thanks to<br />

a program that recruits volunteer<br />

veterinarians<br />

20 INTERVIEW<br />

Déborah Rivas, the Director General<br />

for Foreign Investments at the Ministry<br />

of Foreign Trade and Investments.<br />

DEPARTMENTS<br />

22 WASHINGTON REPORT<br />

The Trump administration’s<br />

long-awaited Cuba regulations have<br />

taken effect. Where do businesses and<br />

travelers go from here?<br />

26 TRADE<br />

Fewer US companies attended this<br />

year’s fair, but more left with signed<br />

deals<br />

28 BUSINESS HISTORY<br />

A Jewish documentary brings Cuba’s<br />

forgotten diamond industry to life<br />

30 EDUCATION<br />

Educational travel experts say the<br />

U.S. travel warning on Cuba doesn’t<br />

have to be a major liability concern<br />

32 ENTREPRENEURS<br />

Private sector advertising, like that<br />

designed by La Pegatina, is carefully<br />

navigating restrictions to reach ordinary<br />

Cubans<br />

34 TOURISM<br />

Concerns that U.S. visitors<br />

could overwhelm Cuba’s tourism<br />

infrastructure sparked the creation<br />

of a group devoted to ‘sustainable’<br />

tourism<br />

72 TRAVEL DIRECTORY<br />

A look at travel providers leading<br />

the way for U.S. visits to Cuba.<br />

76 REPORTERS NOTEBOOK<br />

Regla and Casablanca have charms<br />

that might get lost after Havana<br />

Harbor is refurbished<br />

FINAL WORD<br />

80 IN CLOSING<br />

Emily Mendrala, Executive Director<br />

of the Center for Democracy in the<br />

Americas<br />

4 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017


features<br />

36 CUBA’S ENERGY REVOLUTION<br />

With cheap oil from Venezuela drying up, Cuba pushes<br />

forward with plans to expand oil and gas production<br />

while shifting to renewable energy. The goal? To<br />

become energy independent<br />

36<br />

Iowa farmers<br />

support trade<br />

with Cuba<br />

44 THE NEW PORTFOLIO<br />

The latest portfolio highlights Cuba’s economic aspirations<br />

in a refreshingly frank way, but it glosses over<br />

what has stalled foreign investment for years<br />

50 ISRAEL’S ELUSIVE CUBA CONNECTION<br />

After decades of hostile relations, a trade delegation<br />

traveled from Tel Aviv to Havana in search of opportunities<br />

to invest in and develop new business in Cuba<br />

58 MULTILATERAL BANKING<br />

Cuba’s ascension to the international banking stage<br />

– so necessary for major infrastructure development -<br />

seems inevitable. But when?<br />

44<br />

62 TAMPA BAY AREA: A BRIDGE TO CUBA<br />

St. Petersburg and Tampa continue to pursue trade and<br />

travel ties with Cuba, despite pushback from the federal<br />

administration<br />

ON THE COVER<br />

Déborah Rivas, the Director General for Foreign<br />

Investments at the Ministry of Foreign Trade and<br />

Investments. Photo by Jon Braeley.<br />

50<br />

62<br />

6 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />

iowafarmbureau.com<br />

iowacorn.org


editors note<br />

The New Rules of Engagement:<br />

Upward from Here<br />

For those of us who believe the United States and Cuba should<br />

engage in trade, travel, and open diplomatic relations, the past<br />

year has not been good.<br />

The first sign of a downward turn in U.S.-Cuba ties happened<br />

when then-presidential candidate Donald Trump told a Miami<br />

crowd that he wanted to reverse the Obama administration’s<br />

“one-sided” deal with Cuba. With his election, many investors<br />

who had been fervently interested in Cuba put their plans on hold.<br />

Next came his June announcement in Miami, when he declared<br />

that he would indeed roll back parts of the Obama-era opening<br />

with Cuba. The good news here was that, despite his rhetoric,<br />

the specifics focused only on reducing individual travel to Cuba and<br />

a curtailment of business dealings with Cuban military entities.<br />

Despite the limited nature of the changes, U.S. business<br />

outreach to the island diminished, along with individual U.S.<br />

travel, even before the regulations took effect. And when the<br />

Trump administration slashed embassy staff in Havana, expelled<br />

15 Cuban diplomats in Washington, and issued a travel warning<br />

for Cuba, things only got worse.<br />

Then, in November, the new regulations were issued.<br />

To the chagrin of pro-embargo Cuban-American lawmakers,<br />

the actual regulations were surprisingly limited. The only<br />

changes were the elimination of individual “people-to-people”<br />

non-academic educational trips, and a prohibition on doing<br />

business with entities linked to Cuba’s military, intelligence and<br />

security services.<br />

Group travel to Cuba is still permitted, as well as visits that<br />

help the Cuban people. The first type of travel – which must be<br />

arranged by licensed organizations – means tour companies serving<br />

the island can carry on. It also means that cruise lines can continue<br />

taking passengers to the island. Both should now flourish.<br />

On the business side, it turns out that only about 20 percent<br />

of Cuba’s gross income comes from military-linked entities.<br />

In order to help U.S. businesses identify some military-linked<br />

entities, the U.S. State Department listed 180 organizations that<br />

are off-limits to U.S. companies and citizens.<br />

The good news is that we now have definition. U.S. businesses<br />

and travelers now know the rules and can plan accordingly.<br />

The really good news is that most of what the Obama<br />

administration achieved still stands and can be built upon. Now<br />

is the time for all Americans who want business, cultural, and<br />

scientific relations with Cuba to move forward – and to continue<br />

to push for an end to the benighted, failed policy of the Cold<br />

War-era embargo. The bottom has now been reached.<br />

You can read more details about the new regulations in<br />

Nick Swyter’s story on page 22, and can access the government<br />

regulatory documents and prohibitions on our website www.<br />

cubatrademagazine.com. H<br />

J.P. Faber. Editor-in-Chief<br />

Publisher<br />

Richard Roffman<br />

Art Director<br />

Jon Braeley<br />

Senior Writer<br />

Doreen Hemlock<br />

Vice President Sales<br />

Sherry Adams<br />

Moore & Company, P.A.<br />

Editor-in-Chief<br />

J.P.Faber<br />

CEO<br />

Todd W. Hoffman<br />

Director of Operations<br />

Monica Del Carpio-Raucci<br />

Production Manager<br />

Toni Kirkland<br />

Managing Editor<br />

Julienne Gage<br />

Associate Editor<br />

Nick Swyter<br />

Writers<br />

Richard E. Feinberg<br />

Larry Luxner<br />

Victoria Mckenzie<br />

Photographers<br />

David Ramos Casin<br />

Matias J. Ocner<br />

Manager, New Business<br />

Development<br />

Magguie Marina<br />

Aviation Consultant<br />

Lauren Stover<br />

Maritime • Art • Aviation Law<br />

Cuba Trade Magazine (ISSN 2573-332X) is published each month by Third Circle<br />

Publishing, LLC, at 2 S. Biscayne Blvd., Suite 2450, Miami, FL USA 33131.<br />

Telephone: (786) 206.8254. Copyright 2017 by Third Circle Publishing LLC. All<br />

rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part of any text, photograph or illustration<br />

without prior written permission from the publisher is strictly prohibited.<br />

8 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />

Postmaster: Send address changes to Third Circle Publishing, LLC, 2 S. Biscayne<br />

Blvd., Suite 2450, Miami, FL USA 33131. Subscription information domestic and<br />

foreign (786) 206.8254. Send general mailbox email and letters to the editor to info@<br />

cubatrademag.com. BPA International Membership applied for December 2016.<br />

Cubatrademagazine.com Thirdcirclepublishing.com<br />

www.moore-and-co.com


opinion<br />

A STRATEGIC RESOURCE FOR THE GLOBAL OIL & GAS EXPLORATION INDUSTRY<br />

The Cuba Embargo:<br />

To Lift or Not to Lift?<br />

The question of whether to lift<br />

the embargo on Cuba has been<br />

a subject of debate for decades,<br />

but not for some<br />

Melvin Torres,<br />

World Trade Center Arkansas<br />

Should the U.S. Congress lift the trade<br />

embargo against Cuba? On the one hand,<br />

opponents to the embargo claim that<br />

our almost 60-year-old policy toward<br />

Cuba has isolated the island, destroyed<br />

its once buoyant economy, and done little<br />

else. Others insist that the families of the<br />

grandchildren (now mostly third generation<br />

Cuban American) are first entitled<br />

to reparations for the land or assets their<br />

grandparents or great-grandparents once<br />

held on the island, prior to being nationalized<br />

by the government.<br />

According to the Foreign Claim Settlement<br />

Commission of the United States<br />

Cuban Claims Program Certified Claimant<br />

List, there are a total of 7,048 claims<br />

totaling $1.9 billion. Of these, more than<br />

half are for $10,000 or less. Another 208<br />

claims are for $50,000 or more, with the<br />

top 50 hitting just under $4 million and<br />

up. Many claims are for the same amount<br />

from the same entity, however, or repeated<br />

multiple times. In other words, different<br />

people will look at the claims in different<br />

ways and can reach different conclusions.<br />

On the other hand, Cuba claims that<br />

the almost 60-year-old embargo has dented<br />

Cuba‘s economic development by $1.1<br />

trillion as of 2014.<br />

It looks and sounds like a complex<br />

and irreconcilable convolution of numbers<br />

and figures. But in the end, what do<br />

Americans want? According to the PEW<br />

Research Center, 75 percent of Americans<br />

favor opening diplomatic ties with Cuba<br />

and 73 percent of Americans favor lifting<br />

the embargo immediately.<br />

Aside from figures and claims by both<br />

parties, the humanitarian factor plays an<br />

important role for U.S. farmers – who are<br />

aware of the embargo and understand<br />

it’s impact. This awareness comes from a<br />

united effort by multiple sectors, including<br />

the World Trade Center Arkansas, which<br />

encouraged and organized Arkansas Gov.<br />

Asa Hutchinson’s trip to Cuba in 2015.<br />

This visit made Gov. Hutchinson the first<br />

U.S. governor to visit Cuba since relations<br />

were normalized.<br />

While in Cuba, the WTC Arkansas<br />

signed a Memorandum of Understanding<br />

with World Trade Center Habana. This<br />

was followed by a Cuban delegation visit<br />

to Arkansas from the Cuban Embassy in<br />

Washington, D.C., in April 2016.<br />

Aside from state and local efforts, Congressman<br />

Rick Crawford of Arkansas’ first<br />

district and Sen. John Boozman have led<br />

the House and Senate with different bills<br />

to ease restrictions on U.S. agriculture sales<br />

to Cuba. The effort continues with other<br />

Arkansas non-profit organizations that have<br />

brought Cuban farmers to Arkansas and<br />

have held multiple summits on Cuba.<br />

So, what is so difficult about lifting<br />

the embargo? Mainly, that it requires<br />

Congressional approval. To this end, on<br />

Aug. 1, 2017, the Senate Finance Committee’s<br />

ranking member – Sen. Ron Wyden,<br />

D-OR, introduced a bill co-sponsored by<br />

six other Senators to end the Cuban embargo<br />

and establish normal trade relations.<br />

If the Cuban embargo is lifted, U.S.<br />

farm states will certainly benefit. The<br />

economic impact from exports to Cuba<br />

for these states will be considerable. It is<br />

conservatively estimated that ending the<br />

embargo will result in an annual boost<br />

of $1.4 billion in U.S. food sales to Cuba<br />

within five years.<br />

Arkansas for one can provide and<br />

finance all the rice Cuba consumes as well<br />

as grains, poultry and meats. Cuba is the<br />

largest consumer of these products in the<br />

region and Arkansas is the largest producer<br />

of rice and one of the top producers of<br />

the other U.S. agricultural products.<br />

So, what are the next steps? We have<br />

to wait and see how this historical bill<br />

introduction in Congress will end, but<br />

certainly Arkansas and Cuba have both a<br />

lot to gain through trade as neighboring<br />

partners. H<br />

Melvin Torres is the Director of Western<br />

Hemisphere Trade for the World Trade Center<br />

Arkansas in Rogers, AR. Sources for stats<br />

and figures are available at arwtc.org.<br />

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panorama<br />

Deals, events<br />

and transactions<br />

of note for trade<br />

and investment<br />

in Cuba<br />

10 commodities contribute<br />

$10 bilIion to Louisiana’s economy.<br />

Imagine what it could do for Cuba.<br />

Banned business: Several Old Havana hotels are off-limits to U.S. citizens<br />

The long-awaited sanctions<br />

The U.S. implemented new sanctions<br />

against Cuba that the Trump administration<br />

says will prevent U.S. businesses and<br />

travelers from disproportionately benefiting<br />

the Cuban military and government.<br />

The rules prohibit U.S. citizens from conducting<br />

business with 180 entities tied to<br />

Cuba’s military, intelligence and security<br />

forces. The entities include hotels, marinas,<br />

tourist agencies, stores, as well as the port<br />

and special economic development zone in<br />

Mariel. Deals that were in place before the<br />

new regulations took effect will be allowed<br />

to continue, the Treasury Department<br />

said. Under the new rules, nonacademic<br />

“educational activities” travel must be arranged<br />

with an authorized tour group that<br />

has its own representative accompanying<br />

the trip.<br />

Doctors discover brain abnormalities<br />

Doctors say they have discovered brain abnormalities<br />

among U.S. Embassy workers<br />

harmed by a string of mysterious incidents<br />

in Havana, according to the Associated<br />

Press. U.S. officials said the tests show that<br />

the victims developed changes to white<br />

matter tracts, which allow different parts<br />

of the brain to communicate. The findings<br />

are the most conclusive evidence to<br />

date that the incidents, which the State<br />

Department has called "attacks," caused<br />

distinguishable changes to the brains of<br />

the victims. It also raises suspicions a sonic<br />

12 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />

weapon was involved. The Cuban government<br />

has repeatedly denied claims it carried<br />

out attacks against diplomats. It has<br />

recently accused the U.S. of not presenting<br />

evidence of an alleged attack.<br />

North Korean visit<br />

North Korean Foreign Minister Ri Yong<br />

Ho met with Cuban Foreign Minister<br />

Bruno Rodriguez during a visit to Havana.<br />

The visit happened after several nations<br />

announced they will suspend trade with<br />

North Korea in response to its pursuit of<br />

nuclear weapons. Cuba does not currently<br />

do much trade with North Korea, but the<br />

visit provided an opportunity for Cuba to<br />

show it will not bow to U.S. pressure.<br />

Making it easier to visit<br />

In Washington, Cuban Foreign Minister<br />

Bruno Rodriguez announced that Cuban<br />

citizens living in the U.S. will no longer<br />

need to have their passports reviewed by<br />

embassy authorities before visiting the island.<br />

He said recent staff expulsions from<br />

the Cuban Embassy in Washington made<br />

the process too difficult. Rodriguez also<br />

said the government will make it easier<br />

for children of Cubans living in the U.S.<br />

to obtain Cuban citizenship, and that the<br />

country will welcome back some people<br />

who left the country illegally.<br />

Election cycle begins<br />

Municipal elections held in November and<br />

December kicked off an electoral cycle that<br />

will end with the selection of Raúl Castro’s<br />

presidential successor. The municipal elections<br />

are the only stage of the cycle that are<br />

contested publicly and with direct participation<br />

by ordinary Cubans. A coalition of<br />

government opponents known as #Otro18<br />

said government forces blocked them<br />

from registering about 170 candidates for<br />

the municipal elections. Another election<br />

will happen next year for provincial and<br />

national assembly duties. The new national<br />

assembly will select the next president.<br />

Cuba and the declassified JFK docs<br />

The release of about 2,800 records related<br />

to the assassination of John F. Kennedy<br />

offers more insight into U.S. attempts to<br />

undermine Fidel Castro’s rule. According<br />

to a 1962 National Security Memo, the<br />

U.S. considered using balloons to drop<br />

propaganda leaflets over Cuba; interrupting<br />

Cuban radio and television broadcasts;<br />

introducing biological agents to produce<br />

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seemingly natural crop failures; distributing<br />

explosive devices to Cuban exiles, and<br />

wrecking the Cuban economy.<br />

Welcoming investors<br />

Cuba inaugurated the 35 th edition of the Feria<br />

Internacional de la Habana on Oct. 31.<br />

The fair is Cuba’s largest annual general interest<br />

trade fair. More than 3,000 exhibitors<br />

from 70 countries attended this year’s fair.<br />

Going solar<br />

Germany’s EFF Solar and Spain’s Assyce<br />

Yield Energía signed 25-year agreements<br />

with Cuba’s electrical union to bring solar<br />

panels to provinces such as Mayabeque,<br />

Matanzas, Pinar del Río, and Artemisa.<br />

Nestlé breaks ground in Mariel<br />

Swiss multinational Nestlé broke ground<br />

on a food production facility in the Mariel<br />

Special Economic Development Zone<br />

(ZED Mariel) on Nov. 28. The production<br />

facility is being built as part of a joint<br />

venture between Nestlé and the state-run<br />

Corporación Alimentara SA (Coralsa).<br />

Coralsa President Nelson Arias Moreno<br />

said the facility was originally intended<br />

to be used for roasting coffee, but plans<br />

have expanded for it to produce biscuits<br />

and other culinary products as well. Cuba<br />

hopes the facility will reduce dependence<br />

on imports. Production is expected to<br />

begin in 2019, according to Arias Moreno.<br />

Another recession year?<br />

The United Nations Economic Commission<br />

for Latin America and the Caribbean<br />

(CEPAL) downgraded Cuba’s projected<br />

economic growth for 2017. CEPAL’s October<br />

projection estimates that the Cuban<br />

economy will grow by 0.5 percent in 2017<br />

– a reduction from the 1 percent growth it<br />

predicted earlier in the year. Credit rating<br />

agency Moody’s Investors Service estimated<br />

a 0.5 contraction in 2017. Fractured<br />

U.S.-Cuba relations, destruction from<br />

Hurricane Irma, reduced oil deliveries from<br />

Venezuela, and low global nickel prices<br />

contributed to the downgrade. The Cuban<br />

economy shrank by 0.9 percent last year.<br />

Following through on debt payments<br />

Cuba paid the second installment of a<br />

$2.6 billion renegotiated debt to 14 member<br />

states of the Paris Club, according to<br />

Reuters sources close to the matter. The<br />

debt payment is part of a 2015 agreement<br />

by some Paris Club members to forgive<br />

$8.5 billion of the $11.1 billion official<br />

debt Cuba had defaulted on through<br />

1986, plus charges. Cuba agreed to pay<br />

the remaining debt in annual installments<br />

through 2033. Cuba made its first $40<br />

million payment last year. The agreement<br />

allows creditors to swap old debt, and in<br />

some cases current debt, for an equity<br />

stake in local development projects.<br />

Clothing line breaks barriers<br />

Cuba’s edgy urban clothing line Clandestina<br />

is using a U.S. embargo loophole to<br />

sell and distribute clothes to the American<br />

market. The private sector store was<br />

able to register a company in the U.S.<br />

because one of its co-owners has Spanish<br />

citizenship. An embargo loophole allows<br />

Clandestina to hire Cubans who design<br />

clothing that is produced and shipped by<br />

U.S. manufacturers.<br />

American Express fined<br />

BCC Corporate SA (BCCC), a Belgium-based<br />

company owned by American<br />

Express, was fined by the U.S. Treasury<br />

Department’s Office of Foreign Assets<br />

Control (OFAC) for violating the Cuba<br />

trade embargo. American Express agreed to<br />

pay a fine of $204,277 for its violations, according<br />

to OFAC. The agency says BCCC<br />

credit cards were used to make more than<br />

$500,000 in purchases in Cuba from April<br />

2009 to February 2014. BCCC had control<br />

mechanisms to avoid the unauthorized<br />

transactions, but it failed to implement<br />

those practices, OFAC said.<br />

Who’s making money off Cuba cruises?<br />

U.S. cruise companies stand to earn more<br />

than $761 million in gross revenues from<br />

Cuba itineraries from 2017 to 2019, according<br />

to the U.S.-Cuba Trade and Economic<br />

Council. Businesses in Cuba are estimated<br />

to earn about $80 million from cruise<br />

passengers during that time period. The<br />

Cuban government is estimated to earn $21<br />

million in port taxes. U.S. cruise line CEOs<br />

expressed confidence in the Cuban market<br />

during a Cruise Lines International Association<br />

meeting held in Havana in November.<br />

More U.S. airlines lose interest in Cuba<br />

Alaska Airlines announced it will end its<br />

daily Los Angeles-Havana flights on Jan.<br />

22. Minnesota-based Sun Country Airlines<br />

submitted a request to the U.S. Department<br />

of Transportation to give up two<br />

weekly direct flights to Cuba that it never<br />

commenced. Delta Air Lines announced it<br />

will end six of its weekly flights from New<br />

York's JFK to Havana on Feb. 1. Silver<br />

Airways, Spirit Airlines, and Frontier have<br />

already dropped their Cuba flights.<br />

What’s behind the medicine shortage?<br />

Authorities from the Ministry of Health<br />

and state-run company BioCubaFarma<br />

acknowledged that pharmacies are experiencing<br />

drug shortages because suppliers<br />

haven’t been paid, according to state-controlled<br />

media. BioCubaFarma Operations<br />

Director Rita María Almaguer said 85<br />

percent of the materials used to produce<br />

drugs are imported. Some Cubans have<br />

turned to the black market for medicine. H<br />

14 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017


IDEAS & INNOVATION<br />

Amores<br />

Perros<br />

Havana’s stray dogs<br />

are healthier and<br />

more approachable,<br />

thanks to a program<br />

that recruits volunteer<br />

veterinarians<br />

By Julienne Gage<br />

and Nick Swyter<br />

Caridad Valdés, a security guard with Nina and P-9: The dogs belong to the neighborhood.<br />

From the sunny stoop of a corner building<br />

on Old Havana’s Plaza Vieja, a white<br />

mutt with a tan head naps in the sun,<br />

while another chubbier mutt stands guard,<br />

ready to protect, but mostly eager for some<br />

petting from passersby.<br />

The mere smell of one local prompts<br />

both dogs to jump up, tails wagging,<br />

tongues panting, and mouths grinning.<br />

The man, who is mute, is grinning too.<br />

“She’s not pregnant, she just eats a<br />

lot,” the man signs as he points to the<br />

chubby dog. Around her neck is a photo<br />

ID card listing a phone number and the<br />

local business address for a nearby video<br />

museum.<br />

“My name is Niña. I’m sterilized. I<br />

live at the Cámara Oscura. Don’t mistreat<br />

me,” it reads.<br />

Caridad Valdés, a security guard who<br />

works in the lobby of the building says<br />

Niña and the other dog, P-9, have really<br />

improved the neighborly atmosphere.<br />

“Even the building’s director says<br />

they’re like our mascots,” she said, as the<br />

two dogs poked their heads under her<br />

hands.<br />

In many low-income countries it’s<br />

common to find underfed, mange-plagued<br />

dogs scampering around garbage dumps,<br />

often hobbling on three legs. It’s a painful<br />

sight, not to mention a real turnoff for<br />

tourists. But many of Havana’s street dogs<br />

are healthier, friendlier, and more embraced<br />

by locals and tourists alike.<br />

That’s largely thanks to the efforts of<br />

pioneering Cuban animal rights activist<br />

Nora Garcia. Three decades ago, she began<br />

to help stray or neglected animals by<br />

developing what she calls a “monitoring<br />

protection corps.”<br />

The program recruited local veterinarians<br />

to volunteer to sterilize and vaccinate<br />

animals so they are less likely to be picked<br />

up by exterminators. It also helped facilitate<br />

adoptions inside Cuba. Today that<br />

movement is a non-governmental organization<br />

called Aniplant, and its work has<br />

gained support in recent years thanks to<br />

the country’s boom in tourism and small<br />

businesses. Entrepreneurs benefitting from<br />

an increase in tourism say they want their<br />

neighborhoods to feel more inviting, and<br />

having a clean, healthy dog population<br />

certainly helps.<br />

“There’s a lot more good will. Perhaps<br />

there’s a lot more to be done with educating<br />

about care, but the good will is there,”<br />

Garcia told Cuba Trade. “They are undeniably<br />

happier and less aggressive,” she<br />

said, noting Aniplant’s outreach cuts down<br />

the prevalence of illnesses such as rabies,<br />

which often come from dog bites.<br />

These trends come as little surprise<br />

to Andrew Rowan, president and CEO<br />

of the Humane Society International in<br />

Gaithersburg, Md.<br />

“What we’ve observed is, where we<br />

do dog sterilization people appear to start<br />

KANSAS<br />

W HE A T<br />

®<br />

16 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017


My name is Niña. I’m<br />

sterilized. I live at<br />

the Cámara Oscura.<br />

Don’t mistreat me<br />

Departures from Miami, Tampa and Key West.<br />

Operated by<br />

Animal rights activist Nora Garcia cares for stray dogs at a kennel in Havana’s Vedado neighborhood.<br />

behaving differently to the dogs. People<br />

start taking the dogs into more formal<br />

settings. Instead of just putting a bowl of<br />

rice in street, they’ll start taking the dog<br />

in, getting it vaccinated,” Rowan said.<br />

These services can stimulate the private<br />

veterinarian business, although many<br />

humane societies prefer to take the Cuban<br />

approach of free or reduced-rate vaccinations<br />

and sterilizations. Either way, Rowan<br />

says, veterinary services that resemble<br />

Aniplant’s can reduce the cost of public<br />

health expenditures by reducing emergency<br />

room visits for dog bites and rabies.<br />

“Worldwide, the cost of rabies is<br />

about $8 billion, and 75 percent of that<br />

is associated with loss of income from<br />

death or having to rest up,” Rowan said.<br />

The World Health Organization estimates<br />

that vaccinating just 40 percent of dogs<br />

in a community (at about $1 per dog) is<br />

enough to protect all of its inhabitants<br />

against the spread of rabies.<br />

Programs like Aniplant, combined<br />

with economic growth spurts, are very<br />

likely to spur greater pet ownership and<br />

spending on animal care, says John L. Vetere,<br />

president and CEO of the American<br />

Pet Product Association.<br />

At a basic level, he says putting collars<br />

and ID cards on stray animals lets humans<br />

know they are approachable, thus generating<br />

a curiosity in animal care that can<br />

quickly go viral, especially with social media.<br />

This makes people consider taking in<br />

house pets, especially in urban areas where<br />

people often work long hours in isolation.<br />

From there the next step is creating a local<br />

pet food industry.<br />

This trend started about ten years ago<br />

in China, just as that nation’s middle and<br />

upper classes began to boom.<br />

“It wasn’t all that long ago that dogs<br />

were dinner, and then the government said<br />

that having a pet is a good thing. Since<br />

then, pet ownership has skyrocketed,”<br />

Vetere said, noting that China is now one<br />

of the largest consumers of pet products<br />

in the world. A growing number of U.S.<br />

manufacturers have responded to China’s<br />

interest in pets by establishing facilities to<br />

make pet products in country.<br />

“Could that same thing happen to<br />

Cuba? Absolutely,” he said. “There’s still a<br />

lot of people struggling to make a living,<br />

so I’m not sure designer gourmet pet food<br />

is going to catch on. But people have to<br />

feed their pets, and your traditional, standard<br />

pet foods will, I think, be the way you<br />

get this strong foothold.”<br />

Garcia says she would welcome more<br />

specialized pet food. Currently, most of the<br />

dogs she encounters eat leftovers such as rice,<br />

sweet potato, fish, and pork entrails, especially<br />

from the growing number of restaurants.<br />

“Today that type of food is a challenge, but<br />

it would be great if we had an economy that<br />

would allow for that,” she said.<br />

Dog food sales are legal under current<br />

U.S. law, as they fall under the embargo’s<br />

exemptions for the sale of food and agricultural<br />

products.<br />

“It’s food, so it’s legal,” said attorney<br />

Pedro Freyre, the international practice<br />

chair at Akerman LLP.<br />

Even dogs without collars appear<br />

friendlier and less skittish than street dogs in<br />

other low-income nations. In fact, they can<br />

often be spotted laying on their backs being<br />

petted by tourists dining at outdoor tables.<br />

Rowan chuckled at the dogs’ pleas<br />

for attention. “Dogs are their own best<br />

advocates. They look at you and then you<br />

say ‘oh how cute,’ so you support behavior<br />

that produces rewards,’” he said. H<br />

Interested in helping Cuba’s dogs? Donations<br />

and other support can be sent to Aniplant’s<br />

U.S.-based team. See how by visiting www.<br />

theaniplantproject.org.<br />

Phone: 305-615-4151<br />

18 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017


INTERVIEW<br />

Cuba’s<br />

Foreign<br />

Investment<br />

Priorities<br />

Each year the Cuban government issues<br />

a compendium of its priorities for<br />

direct foreign investment called 'The<br />

Portfolio.' Shortly before this year’s list<br />

was published, Cuba Trade spoke with<br />

Déborah Rivas, the Director General<br />

for Foreign Investments at the Ministry<br />

of Foreign Trade and Investments.<br />

These are excerpts of that interview.<br />

By JP Faber<br />

CT: What are the priorities for investment<br />

in Cuba today?<br />

The priorities will be those sectors that we<br />

call strategic, those that are aimed at the<br />

development of the country…. What sectors<br />

are they? Tourism, which is the most<br />

dynamic one and one that of course can<br />

bring along with it the rest of the economy;<br />

and then the food industry in general.<br />

In this sector, we are very interested in<br />

foreign investment in order to produce<br />

locally and be able to replace imports with<br />

Cuban products.<br />

And, of course, we want to improve<br />

our exports. We are talking, for example,<br />

about the biopharmaceutical sector, biotechnology.<br />

It’s important and it’s one of<br />

those where we have comparative advantages<br />

… because we have invested a lot<br />

of money in that activity and now we are<br />

trying to create partnerships with foreign<br />

capital to develop some products and to<br />

put those products in the market, not only<br />

the Cuban market but to export those<br />

products as well.<br />

Another important sector is the<br />

production of electricity with renewable<br />

sources of energy. Other sectors have to<br />

do with construction, the building sector,<br />

because if you are developing a process<br />

of investment in the whole economy, of<br />

course the construction sector is key to the<br />

development of all the other investments.<br />

CT: Cuba also has oil fields that, under<br />

the right conditions, could be exploited.<br />

How much emphasis is the government<br />

putting on attracting investment for<br />

those, as opposed to renewable energy?<br />

Well, we have both needs. You know, we<br />

import 50 percent of the oil we consume<br />

every year, so for us, it’s important to<br />

create new fuel production capacities in<br />

Cuba. So, in the portfolio of opportunities,<br />

we are dedicated to attracting foreign<br />

partners to exploit those areas mainly in<br />

our inland areas, but also in an exclusive<br />

economic zone in the Gulf of Mexico.<br />

CT: What countries are you hoping to<br />

work with for wind and solar projects?<br />

Spain, Germany, and China. We already<br />

have more than 70 establishments with<br />

foreign capital to develop wind parks<br />

and solar parks in different areas of the<br />

country. The wind parks are mainly on the<br />

eastern side of Cuba, but the solar panels<br />

are all around the island.<br />

CT: Cuba’s annual foreign investment<br />

goal has been $2.5 billion, but over the<br />

past two years, only $1.3 billion in projects<br />

have been approved. Why is that? What<br />

are the challenges?<br />

Well, this amount has been improved and<br />

is increasing in 2017. But we do have a<br />

number of obstacles. First, we have internal<br />

obstacles. We call these “mentality”<br />

problems, because though we changed the<br />

regulatory framework, you cannot change<br />

the minds of the people of the [Cuban]<br />

enterprises as fast as you sign a new law…<br />

So we have a problem in that the [Cuban<br />

state] companies are not ready to negotiate<br />

Photo by Jon Braeley<br />

as fast as is needed and to close business in<br />

the portfolio.<br />

The speed of the [state] process is<br />

slow but now, in 2017, there is a change<br />

in the perception we have from the<br />

Ministry about entrepreneurs and the<br />

capability they have developed to close<br />

business more quickly… Right now we are<br />

reviewing the regulations of the foreign<br />

investment law to reduce the number of<br />

documents that the parties have to file to<br />

get approval and to make the process more<br />

flexible, and that should also cut down the<br />

negotiation time.<br />

The other problems we have are the<br />

external obstacles. The U.S. blockade<br />

against Cuba is the main problem, not<br />

only for the development of new investments<br />

in Cuba with foreign capital but for<br />

trade, and to get financing...<br />

It’s difficult for us to diminish the<br />

effect of the blockade, even on [foreign]<br />

banks, as you know. They freeze transfers<br />

and [there are] a lot of measures that<br />

create fear in other companies… After<br />

Hurricane Irma, an association of Friends<br />

of Cuba tried to transfer 60,000 euros to<br />

Cuba in hurricane help and ING Bank,<br />

one of the biggest Dutch banks, refused to<br />

transfer the money.<br />

CT: What about getting investment<br />

directly from U.S. companies?<br />

We have no specific policy in place against<br />

U.S. companies’ partnering with Cuban<br />

companies. And there is no different<br />

regulatory framework for U.S. investors.<br />

Quite the contrary, we are very interested<br />

in diversifying our investment sources...<br />

CT: But isn’t there a wariness in accepting<br />

investments from the United States<br />

because of the history where the U.S.<br />

controlled so much of Cuba?<br />

Actually what we have is a clear policy<br />

that we are never going to depend on<br />

a single market again… That has been<br />

Cuba’s history: we were dependent on<br />

Spain when we were colonies; we were<br />

dependent on the United States when we<br />

were a neo-colony; then the revolution triumphed<br />

and, because of the blockade, we<br />

then were dependent on the USSR and<br />

the socialist market, and that is something<br />

that we are not going to repeat.<br />

CT: One of the new obstacles to U.S.<br />

investment is Trump’s policy that U.S.<br />

companies will not be able to do business<br />

with any company owned by the Cuban<br />

military. Will the Cuban military transfer<br />

some of its holdings to another part of the<br />

government to attract U.S. investments?<br />

I don’t think we are going to do anything<br />

at all, neither the military sector nor the<br />

non-military, because, well, we’re not<br />

going to help Mr. Trump with his policies.<br />

That is simply the way our country works,<br />

we have companies in all sectors.<br />

CT: What are some of the most promising<br />

investments that have been made in<br />

the last few years?<br />

Well, in the last few years, tourism,<br />

basically. We have more than 25 joint<br />

ventures already established in the tourism<br />

sector and we also have formed some<br />

older, not recent, ones in the agro-food<br />

industry. We have many food and drink<br />

producers that are now companies with<br />

foreign capital. For example, we have an<br />

association with AB InBev, you know? A<br />

major transnational beer producer. It’s our<br />

partner in Cuba to produce Cristal and<br />

Bucaneros.<br />

We also have joint ventures in the fuel<br />

sector to produce, for example, liquid gas.<br />

And we produce thermoelectric energy<br />

with companies from Canada. So, with all<br />

of that, there are more than 200 establishments<br />

in our country that existed prior to<br />

the new [2014] FDI law.<br />

CT: Most of the foreign investment that<br />

Cuba is officially looking for seems to be<br />

for large-scale projects. Does your ministry<br />

concern itself with attracting foreign<br />

investors for small businesses?<br />

A lot of people ask us this, if all we want<br />

are large projects. If you review the portfolio<br />

of opportunities in all the sectors,<br />

there are projects of all sizes. There are<br />

projects that don’t reach $1 million in<br />

capital, and there are projects of $700 million<br />

in capital. But we don’t promote any<br />

one in particular; we promote all of them.<br />

A large project and a small project are<br />

both just as important for Cuba today. For<br />

example, this year there are three small<br />

projects to develop the textile industry in<br />

Cuba. For us this is just as important as<br />

a project that is going to export mineral<br />

concentrates and where the investment is<br />

$300 million.<br />

CT: For some projects in Mariel, the<br />

Cuban government is accepting a higher<br />

proportion of foreign ownership for<br />

projects. Is this likely to expand outside of<br />

Mariel?<br />

Well, this is not just in Mariel, and it’s not<br />

even from the new law. Law 77 of 1995<br />

also allowed majority foreign capital interest<br />

in businesses. In fact, as of the year<br />

2014, we had eight companies established<br />

in Cuba that were 100 percent foreign<br />

capital. So this is something that the law<br />

allows and that had already been occurring.<br />

Of course, after the creation of the<br />

Mariel free zone, business has increased:<br />

we now have almost 30 companies with<br />

only foreign capital doing business.<br />

CT: In general, what will encourage more<br />

foreign direct investment?<br />

Well, I think we must keep trying to find<br />

a way—and now with the Trump government,<br />

it’s looking a little farther away again<br />

to me—to lift the blockade or continue taking<br />

measures that were already being taken<br />

so that both U.S. companies and those in<br />

the rest of the world can dispel their cloud<br />

of fear about doing business in Cuba.<br />

For us, the blockade is a serious problem<br />

that remains an obstacle every day for<br />

our businesses, making everything complicated<br />

with our suppliers and our investors.<br />

It’s important for everyone to understand<br />

that the blockade is tangible, it’s an obstacle,<br />

it exists, and it makes it difficult for us…<br />

[but] We had foreign investments before<br />

Obama and we still have foreign investment<br />

under Trump’s administration. So, thinking<br />

that because of Trump we are going to stop<br />

having foreign investment in Cuba, is not<br />

realistic. We are in fact having an increase in<br />

foreign investment in Cuba and the U.S. is<br />

missing these opportunities. H<br />

20 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 CUBATRADE<br />

21


WASHINGTON REPORT<br />

Making Sense of the<br />

New Cuba Rules<br />

The Trump administration’s long-awaited<br />

Cuba regulations have taken effect. Where<br />

do businesses and travelers go from here?<br />

By Nick Swyter<br />

Now that the Trump administration has<br />

implemented its long-awaited regulations<br />

on travel and business with Cuba, U.S.<br />

companies and travelers have more clarity<br />

on how to advance – or scrap – their plans<br />

for the island.<br />

The Trump administration says the<br />

new sanctions prevent U.S. businesses and<br />

travelers from disproportionately benefitting<br />

Cuba’s military, intelligence and security<br />

forces at the expense of the island’s<br />

burgeoning private sector. They essentially<br />

have two core components.<br />

First, U.S. citizens are prohibited from<br />

conducting direct financial transactions<br />

with 180 entities linked to Cuba’s military,<br />

intelligence, and security services. The entities<br />

include hotels, tourism groups, marinas,<br />

beverage brands, stores, as well as the port<br />

and special economic development zone in<br />

Mariel. Airlines, cruise lines, and other U.S.<br />

companies that were already operating in<br />

Cuba before the new sanctions were implemented<br />

won’t be interrupted, the Treasury<br />

Department said.<br />

Second, U.S. citizens are no longer<br />

allowed to visit Cuba on individual “people-to-people”<br />

non-academic educational<br />

exchange programs, which allowed travelers<br />

to set their own itinerary of activities.<br />

Leisure travelers must now visit the island<br />

with organized tour groups that have their<br />

own representative accompanying the trip.<br />

“We have strengthened our Cuba<br />

policies to channel economic activity away<br />

from the Cuban military and to encourage<br />

the government to move toward greater<br />

political and economic freedom for the<br />

Cuban people,” Treasury Secretary Steve<br />

Mnuchin said in a statement.<br />

The new rules undoubtedly create<br />

more obstacles for businesses and travelers.<br />

But renewed clarity on Cuba is<br />

appreciated by many, especially those who<br />

have tracked Donald Trump since he first<br />

promised to “reverse” the Obama administration’s<br />

“one-sided” deal more than a year<br />

ago as a presidential candidate.<br />

“The new rules are a welcome<br />

development because they remove the<br />

uncertainty and afford predictability for<br />

businesses, and they allow for robust transactions<br />

to continue on the island,” said<br />

Pedro Freyre, the international practice<br />

chair at Akerman, a law firm whose clients<br />

include U.S. companies operating in Cuba.<br />

Now that there is a path forward, U.S.<br />

businesses and travelers are eager to learn<br />

what activities are still legal in Cuba, as<br />

well as how the Trump administration will<br />

enforce the new sanctions.<br />

What’s still allowed<br />

U.S. citizens are allowed to stay at the<br />

Iberostar Parque Central in Havana<br />

Despite his insistence, Trump did not<br />

“cancel the last administration’s completely<br />

one-sided deal with Cuba,” as he vowed to<br />

do in Miami on June 16. Besides the restrictions<br />

on individual “people-to-people”<br />

travel and conducting business with military-linked<br />

entities, most of the Obama<br />

administration’s policy remains intact.<br />

On travel, the 12 categories for<br />

authorized visits to Cuba are mostly unchanged,<br />

though the “educational activities”<br />

category now requires U.S. citizens<br />

to use a licensed tour group that has its<br />

own representative accompanying the trip.<br />

The Obama administration only authorized<br />

self-directed leisure travel in March<br />

2016, so the new travel regulations mostly<br />

resemble what was allowed before then.<br />

The Treasury Department also<br />

clarified what constitutes travel under the<br />

“support for the Cuban people” category.<br />

Travelers who use that category are encouraged<br />

to stay at private bed-and-breakfasts<br />

(casas particulares) and eat at private<br />

restaurants (paladares) while participating<br />

in a compulsory schedule of activities that<br />

“enhance contact with the Cuban people,<br />

support civil society in Cuba, or promote<br />

the Cuban people’s independence from<br />

Cuban authorities.”<br />

Augusto Maxwell, the chair of Akerman’s<br />

Cuba practice, said the clarification<br />

allows “support for the Cuban people” to<br />

become the de facto category for self-directed<br />

travel. U.S. visitors will just need to<br />

spend their money at private businesses.<br />

However, the category hasn’t been strongly<br />

defined so travelers are encouraged to<br />

keep detailed records of their ‘meaningful’<br />

activities.<br />

“So these self-directed travelers will<br />

no longer go on ‘people-to-people’ trips,<br />

but they will now go on ‘support for the<br />

Cuban people’ trips,” Maxwell said. “I<br />

think over the next two or three months<br />

we are going to re-educate the public that<br />

you can still go to Cuba, and you just have<br />

to go and support the Cuban people.”<br />

People who booked at least part of<br />

their Cuba travel before Trump’s June 16<br />

policy directive announcement are also<br />

still allowed to take their planned trips,<br />

the Treasury Department said.<br />

The prohibition on conducting<br />

transactions with the State Department’s<br />

list of 180 military-linked entities is more<br />

complicated, partly because of its various<br />

exemptions.<br />

“Consistent with the Administration’s<br />

interest in avoiding negative impacts on<br />

American businesses and travelers, commercial<br />

engagements in place prior to the<br />

State Department’s listing of any entity or<br />

subentity will continue to be authorized,”<br />

the Treasury Department said.<br />

U.S. cruises and commercial flights<br />

will continue, as well as “other types of<br />

contractual arrangements agreed to prior<br />

to the issuance of the new regulations.”<br />

That means U.S. agriculture exports to<br />

Cuba are still allowed despite the Mariel<br />

Container Terminal appearing on the list<br />

of prohibited entities. Unlimited remittances<br />

to Cubans who aren’t “prohibited<br />

officials of the Government of Cuba” will<br />

also continue in spite of FINCIMEX, the<br />

entity that handles cash transfer services<br />

such as Western Union, appearing on the<br />

State Department list.<br />

Marriott International’s Starwood<br />

subsidiary is also still allowed to manage<br />

the Four Points by Sheraton in Havana – a<br />

property owned by the Cuban military’s<br />

Gaviota tourism group. U.S. customers can<br />

even continue staying at the hotel since it’s<br />

not included in the State Department list.<br />

Several Gaviota hotels managed by European<br />

hospitality companies weren’t as lucky.<br />

“I think it would have been odd for<br />

the State Department to come out with a<br />

list that said Americans cannot stay at the<br />

Tour groups can still enjoy the sights at Old Havana's Plaza Vieja<br />

only hotel managed by a U.S. company,”<br />

Maxwell said. “I think the clear message<br />

though, was that there will be no more<br />

of those. So Gaviota, which is a military-owned<br />

entity, is shut down for U.S.<br />

businesses.”<br />

The various exemptions and the<br />

Treasury Department’s delayed rollout<br />

of the new sanctions allowed several U.S.<br />

companies to secure operational deals with<br />

Cuba at the buzzer. Rimco, Caterpillar’s<br />

dealer for Puerto Rico and the eastern<br />

Caribbean, earned approval on Nov. 1 to<br />

set up a dealer facility in the Mariel Special<br />

Economic Development Zone – one<br />

of the banned entities. John Deere also<br />

secured a deal to ship tractors to Cuba in<br />

November.<br />

Enforcement<br />

It’s not clear how the Trump administration<br />

intends to enforce the new sanctions.<br />

The Departments of Treasury and State<br />

didn’t announce any new entry-exit<br />

requirements for U.S. travelers visiting<br />

Cuba. They also didn’t state whether any<br />

22 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 CUBATRADE<br />

23


The New Cuba Regulations<br />

RESTRICTED: Self-directed “person-to-person”<br />

non-academic educational travel<br />

BANNED: Conducting business with a list of<br />

entities linked to Cuba’s military, intelligence<br />

and services<br />

PERMITTED: Everything else previously<br />

authorized by President Obama<br />

WE GROW TRADE ®<br />

CELEBRATING 10 YEARS OF TAKING THE BEST OF ARKANSAS TO THE WORLD<br />

The Mariel Special Economic Development Zone is off-limits to U.S. businesses<br />

The Melia Marina Varadero and its adjacent<br />

marina appear on the State Department list<br />

more staff members will be tasked with<br />

enforcing the new regulations.<br />

The ban on U.S. businesses conducting<br />

transactions with entities on the State Department<br />

list is fairly straightforward. So is<br />

the distinction on which hotels are banned.<br />

But making sure private U.S. citizens don’t<br />

give money to any of the military-linked<br />

entities may be more difficult, especially<br />

since the State Department’s list includes<br />

entities such as soft drink manufacturers,<br />

rum producers, and retail stores.<br />

“Certainly, trying to enforce the<br />

prohibition on doing business with a retail<br />

outlet in Old Havana is almost impossible,”<br />

said William LeoGrande, an American<br />

University professor and co-author of<br />

Back Channel to Cuba: The Hidden History<br />

of Negotiations Between Washington and<br />

Havana.<br />

LeoGrande said he expects travel<br />

agencies to handle some enforcement<br />

since they will be responsible for booking<br />

accommodations and scheduling activities.<br />

“The regulations actually say that if you<br />

go with a licensed travel provider, the expectation<br />

is that the travel provider keeps<br />

the records to assure you are obeying the<br />

regulations,” LeoGrande said.<br />

Maxwell, for his part, characterized<br />

the enforcement of the new regulations as<br />

an “honor system.” He said U.S. authorities<br />

charged with enforcing sanctions are<br />

already busy with more pressing enemies<br />

such as ISIS.<br />

Still, he said Americans who visit<br />

Cuba should keep records of their trip for<br />

more than five years. “You are subject to an<br />

audit for five years,” he warned.<br />

Closing the book<br />

The rollout of the new regulations<br />

happened against the backdrop of the<br />

unexplained injuries suffered by at least<br />

two dozen U.S. embassy workers and<br />

family members stationed in Havana.<br />

The sanctions could certainly weaken<br />

already fractured U.S.-Cuba relations.<br />

The State Department has labeled the<br />

bizarre incidents “attacks.” It retaliated by<br />

withdrawing most of its Havana embassy<br />

staff, expelling Cuban diplomats in<br />

Washington, and issuing a travel warning<br />

for the island.<br />

Cuba has repeatedly denied involvement<br />

in an alleged sonic weapon attack.<br />

More recently, high-ranking Cuban officials<br />

have accused the U.S. of withholding<br />

information on the investigation and suggested<br />

the “attacks” didn’t happen.<br />

LeoGrande says the Trump administration’s<br />

next action toward the island may<br />

be determined by what investigators learn<br />

about the mysterious events.<br />

“It’s possible that could escalate to<br />

a point where the administration might<br />

put in place a second set of sanctions,”<br />

LeoGrande said. “But at least for the time<br />

being, the administration has wrapped up<br />

its Cuba policy, and I don’t expect them to<br />

revisit it anytime soon.” H<br />

RICE<br />

TIMBER<br />

POULTRY<br />

SOY<br />

24 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017


TRADE<br />

More with Less<br />

A lot can change in a year.<br />

More than 30 U.S. companies had<br />

booths at last year’s Feria Internacional<br />

de la Habana, the annual trade fair that<br />

attracts thousands of companies from<br />

around the world.<br />

But only about a dozen U.S. companies<br />

had booths at this year’s fair, held<br />

from Oct. 31 to Nov. 4. The drop in participation<br />

was so noticeable that a section<br />

of the pavilion occupied by U.S. organizations<br />

last year was blocked off to attendees.<br />

The U.S. presence at the fair is one of<br />

several signs of how American enthusiasm<br />

for investing in Cuba has dipped under<br />

President Donald Trump.<br />

U.S. companies such as Napa Auto<br />

Parts and Rust-Oleum, which explored<br />

business opportunities in Cuba a year ago,<br />

chose to sit out November’s fair. Crowley<br />

Maritime Corp., Havana Air, VaCuba,<br />

USA Poultry & Egg Export Council, and<br />

the Maryland Department of Agriculture<br />

were among the handful of U.S. organizations<br />

that decided to maintain a presence.<br />

“Yes, there are fewer exhibitors, and<br />

26 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />

Fewer US companies attended this year’s fair,<br />

but more left with signed deals<br />

there’s a little bit of uncertainty about<br />

what the future holds,” said Theresa<br />

Brophy, director of international marketing<br />

at the Maryland Department of<br />

Agriculture. She said her organization<br />

chose to attend the fair because of years of<br />

hard work. “We’ve decided that we’ve built<br />

really good relationships and it’s a strong<br />

market. So we’re going to continue to do<br />

what we do.”<br />

But even amid more pessimistic attitudes<br />

in the U.S. corner of the fair, several<br />

companies secured deals.<br />

Rimco, Caterpillar’s dealer for Puerto<br />

Rico and the eastern Caribbean, earned<br />

approval to build and operate a dealer<br />

facility in the Mariel Special Economic<br />

Development Zone (ZED Mariel). The<br />

announcement makes Rimco the first U.S.<br />

company to get the green light to set up<br />

shop in the zone, which offers investors<br />

incentives such 100 percent foreign ownership,<br />

long-term contracts, and tax breaks.<br />

“We were expecting it to happen next<br />

month, but I think the timing is great with<br />

us being at the fair,” said Rimco Executive<br />

The Rimco team stands in front of their booth at the Havana trade fair<br />

By Nick Swyter<br />

Vice President Caroline McConnie.<br />

The company hopes to open a facility<br />

that sells, rents, and repairs Caterpillar<br />

products as early next year. The plan is<br />

to operate in a temporary facility until<br />

a permanent space is built. “We want to<br />

start marketing our products as soon as<br />

possible,” McConnie said.<br />

John Deere & Co., the Illinois-based<br />

company known for its farm machinery,<br />

also signed a deal at the fair to sell tractors<br />

to Cuba. The tractors were reportedly<br />

scheduled to arrive in Cuba in November.<br />

The two heavy equipment deals won’t<br />

be affected by the Trump administration’s<br />

new regulations on travel and business<br />

with Cuba. The rules bar U.S. citizens from<br />

conducting transactions with 180 entities<br />

linked to Cuba’s military, intelligence,<br />

and security services. ZED Mariel is one<br />

of the banned entities, but Rimco will be<br />

allowed to move forward because it signed<br />

a deal before the new rules took effect.<br />

John Deere, for its part, signed its tractor<br />

deal with state-owned entity Maquimport,<br />

which is not a banned business. H<br />

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BUSINESS HISTORY<br />

A Brief,<br />

Shining<br />

Moment<br />

A Jewish<br />

documentary<br />

brings Cuba’s<br />

forgotten diamond<br />

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Remembering the Past:<br />

Marion Finkels Kreith, who<br />

arrived in Cuba at age 14 to<br />

work as a diamond polisher.<br />

Cuba: exporter of rum, cigars, nickel and<br />

… diamonds?<br />

Few are old enough to remember, but<br />

for a brief period during and after World<br />

War II, Cuba became a world center for<br />

diamond cutting and polishing.<br />

A new documentary, Cuba’s Forgotten<br />

Jewels: A Haven in Havana, brings this<br />

obscure story to life. The 46-minute film by<br />

co-directors Judy Ann Kreith and Robin<br />

Truesdale, which cost $200,000 to produce,<br />

describes how thousands of Belgian,<br />

Dutch and other European Jews not only<br />

escaped extermination by the Nazis but<br />

also brought to Cuba a thriving business.<br />

“This is a very personal story,” Kreith<br />

told Cuba Trade, following a recent<br />

screening of her movie at the Patronato,<br />

largest of Havana’s three functioning<br />

synagogues. Her mother, Marion Finkels<br />

Kreith, was one of about 6,000 Jews who<br />

escaped to Cuba in the late 1930s and<br />

early 1940s.<br />

“Her father, who was interned in a<br />

camp in southern France, heard there<br />

were a few visas to Cuba, so they were<br />

able to get visas for the whole family,”<br />

said Kreith, 56. “All of the characters in<br />

the film were in Belgium when the Nazis<br />

28 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />

invaded on May 10, 1940.”<br />

The elder Kreith, now 90, arrived in<br />

Cuba at the age of 14 and went to work<br />

polishing diamonds in a stifling-hot factory.<br />

At one time, between 30 and 50 such<br />

facilities operated in Havana.<br />

“Some were very small factories, operating<br />

in people’s homes, and others were<br />

very large,” said Kreith. “When Hitler<br />

invaded, the Belgian refugees and some<br />

from Holland took what they could on<br />

their bodies, but it was their connections<br />

that helped them start over again. They<br />

used those connections, with the diamond<br />

syndicates in London and New York.”<br />

Most saw Havana as a temporary<br />

stop on the way to Miami or New York.<br />

But after Pearl Harbor, it became nearly<br />

impossible for refugees in Cuba to get U.S.<br />

visas, so they remained. But by 1948, with<br />

the war over, Cuba’s fledgling diamond<br />

industry had disappeared.<br />

“Once most of the main experts in the<br />

trade received their visas, they left Cuba,”<br />

according to Kreith. “Many went to the<br />

U.S., some back to Belgium, and others<br />

to Israel. Without the worldwide connections<br />

of the diamond merchants and their<br />

top-level expertise, the Cuban government<br />

was unable to keep the industry in Havana.”<br />

Kreith’s mother, for example, emigrated<br />

to Miami, then to Los Angeles, and<br />

finally to Boulder, Colorado, where Kreith<br />

grew up. A dance instructor, she fell in love<br />

with Afro-Cuban dance when she visited<br />

Cuba in 2000. Since then, she’s traveled to<br />

the island at least 25 times, spending the<br />

past seven years researching the documentary.<br />

Her co-director, Robin Truesdale,<br />

interviewed the aging refugees, most now<br />

in their 80s and 90s.<br />

“I realized that if we were going<br />

to make this film, we’d have to make it<br />

while people are still alive,” said Kreith,<br />

56. “Our dream is to bring it to Yad<br />

Vashem [Israel’s national Holocaust<br />

museum]. We’d like to have it be a part of<br />

their archives, and we’d also like to screen<br />

it as widely as we can.” That includes the<br />

Havana Film Festival in December. H<br />

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EDUCATION<br />

Top left: Participants of Maine’s maritime educational program<br />

Ocean Passages ready their 130-foot sailboat as it heads to Cuba.<br />

Top right: Ocean Passages students meet with the staff of Sen.<br />

Angus King (I-Maine) to discuss travel to Cuba.<br />

Bottom right: Ocean Passage’s 130-foot sailboat on its way to Cuba.<br />

STAYING THE COURSE<br />

Educational travel experts say the U.S. travel warning<br />

on Cuba doesn’t have to be a major liability concern<br />

This fall, 15 young Americans who<br />

enrolled in a maritime expedition from<br />

Portland, Maine to Cienfuegos, Cuba<br />

have been learning that politics, like<br />

sailing, requires strategic navigation<br />

through choppy waters. Their leaders say<br />

they could be setting a precedent for other<br />

Cuba education tour operators.<br />

“We’re just trying to go and make<br />

friends in Cuba and experience the culture,<br />

teach them about sailing, and learn<br />

some stuff ourselves,” trip participant Evans<br />

Clark said during a phone interview<br />

from Charleston, S.C., one of the ports<br />

where the crew docked for supplies.<br />

Sponsored by the Maine-based maritime<br />

education program Ocean Passages,<br />

the crew is on a “gap semester” program<br />

designed for students taking a break<br />

between high school and college. Among<br />

other topics, participants learn about Cuba’s<br />

ecology, culture, and geopolitics while<br />

living on a historic 130-foot sailboat that<br />

transports them along the U.S. East Coast<br />

and around Cuba.<br />

The crew left New England on Sept.<br />

9 with plans of docking in Washington<br />

in mid-October to lobby Congress for<br />

increased U.S. engagement. But on Sept.<br />

29, the State Department issued a travel<br />

By Julienne Gage<br />

warning for Cuba in response to mysterious<br />

sonic incidents that left at least two<br />

dozen embassy staffers and family members<br />

in Havana with medical ailments<br />

such as hearing loss, dizziness, and headaches.<br />

The State Department contends<br />

these incidents were the result of sonic<br />

weapon “attacks,” and while it has not<br />

directly blamed Cuba for launching them,<br />

it does hold the government responsible<br />

for protecting the safety of its diplomats.<br />

In response, it withdrew about 60 percent<br />

of its Havana embassy and expelled<br />

15 officials from the Cuban Embassy in<br />

Washington.<br />

Cuba has repeatedly denied involvement<br />

in these incidents, and high-ranking<br />

officials have accused the U.S. of withholding<br />

information on the investigation<br />

and questioned whether the alleged<br />

“attacks” are scientifically possible.<br />

Rather than turn back as U.S.-Cuba<br />

diplomatic ties soured, the Ocean Passages<br />

crew stayed the course to tell Congress<br />

why engagement is important.<br />

“We make a point to stop in Washington<br />

on the way there and back because<br />

even in calmer times, it’s a place where<br />

there’s always things to learn. We can<br />

also share what we’ve learned on our way<br />

back,” said Ocean Passages Counsel Steve<br />

Schwadron.<br />

Schwadron says participants’ willingness<br />

to continue onward saved some of<br />

the program, but the organization took a<br />

financial hit from several partnering institutions<br />

that backed out when they learned<br />

of the travel warning.<br />

Maine-based community college<br />

The Landing School, a national leader in<br />

boat building education, cancelled what<br />

would have been its third outing with<br />

Ocean Passages to offer boat building<br />

workshops to Cubans in Cienfuegos. Then<br />

the University of Southern Maine backed<br />

out of a memorandum of understanding<br />

that Ocean Passages was helping to broker<br />

with the Cuban government for a maritime<br />

study abroad program.<br />

“These instances, while poignant, are<br />

also happening to many other worthwhile<br />

programs,” said Schwadron.<br />

American travel associations such<br />

as the Center for Responsible Travel<br />

(CREST) and Responsible and Ethical<br />

Cuba Travel (RESPECT) are closely<br />

following these developments while<br />

planning a survey to measure the financial<br />

impact of similar tour operator pull-backs.<br />

They say it’s too soon to begin polling,<br />

including measuring the impact of the<br />

Trump administration recently issued new<br />

regulations that restrict U.S. business and<br />

travel in Cuba. Under the new rules, U.S.<br />

travelers on “people-to-people” educational<br />

trips must travel with an authorized<br />

travel group and cannot stay at hotels<br />

owned by the military.<br />

“It will be in December and January<br />

when the real impacts are visible,” said<br />

CREST Executive Director Martha Honey,<br />

noting that the U.S.-Cuba diplomatic<br />

crisis unfolded during Cuba’s low season<br />

for foreign visitors.<br />

Bob Guild, co-founder of RESPECT<br />

and vice-president of Marazul, the nation’s<br />

oldest Cuba tour operator agrees.<br />

“We ourselves have cancelled groups,<br />

and individuals have cancelled, but we’ve<br />

also had new groups requesting to go<br />

despite the travel warning. So it’s really<br />

hard to put a cost on it,” he said. He also<br />

noted that major airlines and cruise ships<br />

are reminding travelers that there are no<br />

confirmed cases of U.S. civilians injured<br />

by sonic occurrences in Cuba. Instead,<br />

they’re assuring passengers that millions of<br />

foreigners are still safely traveling to Cuba.<br />

One of the biggest concerns, however,<br />

is liability insurance.<br />

“Some schools needed to cancel not<br />

because the students, professors or parents<br />

were worried, but because they have risk<br />

assessment managers who automatically<br />

say the school can’t go if State Department<br />

puts up a travel warning,” Guild said.<br />

He said concerned institutions and<br />

tour operators should ask insurance<br />

companies for a waiver, and that could buy<br />

them more time to make a decision. Many<br />

programs, especially academic ones, aren’t<br />

scheduled to leave for Cuba until early<br />

next year.<br />

Chase Poffenberger, executive vice<br />

president for Academic Travel Abroad,<br />

which works in partnership with major<br />

educational and media institutions such<br />

as the Smithsonian, National Geographic,<br />

and The New York Times says waivers are<br />

one of several ways her organization does<br />

its due diligence.<br />

“We ask the traveler to acknowledge<br />

that he or she has read the warning and is<br />

comfortable proceeding before any money<br />

is at risk,” she said. This includes a warning<br />

in pre-trip materials and asking participants<br />

to sign a travel warning acknowledgement<br />

form are ways to make sure<br />

clients know the risks, Poffenberger added.<br />

Meanwhile, Schwadron wants to remind<br />

Congress, as well as globally conscious<br />

educators and tour operators, why these<br />

educational Cuba programs are vital to<br />

sound diplomacy.<br />

“We’re not just darting in and out.<br />

We become part of the community,”<br />

he said. “We’re being viewed as a good<br />

neighbor.” H<br />

30 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 CUBATRADE<br />

31


ENTREPRENEURS<br />

Breaking the<br />

advertising taboo<br />

Private sector ads,<br />

like those designed by La<br />

Pegatina, are carefully<br />

navigating restrictions to<br />

reach ordinary Cubans<br />

Story and photos by<br />

Victoria Mckenzie<br />

There’s a majority generation<br />

that grew up rejecting publicity<br />

Ares Perez, owner of La Pegatina, an<br />

advertising and design company<br />

Mario Gonzales, a two-time national<br />

motorcycling champion, quit racing a few<br />

years ago to open his own private motorcycle<br />

repair shop in his native Guanabacoa,<br />

a colonial town on the outskirts of<br />

Havana. His shop offers no signs that it’s<br />

open for business. Instead, he relies on<br />

silver dollar-sized stickers featuring his<br />

Motos Mario logo to send a message. The<br />

logo shows a rider silhouette with a flame<br />

trail; they are placed on the motorbikes he<br />

rebuilds from scratch.<br />

Gonzales admits he finds the<br />

self-promotion tactic distasteful. The<br />

sticker’s designer, Ares Perez, hardly seems<br />

surprised.<br />

“Advertising was always something<br />

taboo,” said Perez, sitting at his desk in the<br />

front office of La Pegatina, an advertising<br />

and design company a few blocks from<br />

Gonzales’ shop in Guanabacoa. His office<br />

looks like any small shop in the U.S., with<br />

computer workstations, printers, and a back<br />

room filled with sewing machines for textile<br />

design. But Perez says he has to work<br />

with pirated software, and the business still<br />

depends on a public wifi hotspot to connect<br />

with clients. Still, his office demon-<br />

strates early signs of an advertising sector.<br />

Before Raúl Castro’s economic<br />

reforms allowed for the emergence of<br />

a small private sector in Cuba, Perez<br />

wouldn’t have been able to raise a sign<br />

above his office – even though as a designer,<br />

he’s been permitted to operate as<br />

an independent entrepreneur for much<br />

longer. Perez graduated from Havana’s<br />

renowned Instituto Superior de Diseño in<br />

1996, at a time when artists and musicians<br />

were already allowed to obtain licenses to<br />

sell their work.<br />

But Perez’ chosen field was advertising,<br />

and he wanted to do more than<br />

just design uniforms and posters for<br />

government clients. The “opening,” as he<br />

describes policy reforms in both Cuba and<br />

the U.S., allowed his business to grow.<br />

But in a country where advertising<br />

has been banned for nearly five decades,<br />

openly promoting your own business<br />

can feel strange or even scary to many<br />

entrepreneurs. The exception to the ban<br />

on physical advertising is the use of small<br />

signs that entrepreneurs can display on<br />

their businesses, their cards, and flyers.<br />

Private advertising is still scarce in<br />

Cuba, says Perez, and tends to exist primarily<br />

on the internet. While public spaces<br />

can still only be used for propaganda or<br />

public service billboards, advertisements<br />

have sprouted exponentially on digital<br />

platforms.<br />

Perez understands why self-promotion<br />

is awkward for clients like Mario,<br />

who have spent most of their lives in a<br />

world without non-governmental advertisements.<br />

“There’s a majority generation that<br />

grew up rejecting publicity, that still<br />

doesn’t understand the necessity of promoting<br />

businesses,” said Perez, adding that<br />

millennials appear to be more comfortable<br />

with self-promotion, especially via the<br />

internet.<br />

Despite the taboo that still surrounds<br />

advertising, La Pegatina now has more<br />

private clients than state clients, because<br />

“private clients are feeling the pressure of<br />

competition,” Perez said. And he prefers it<br />

that way; with the private sector, “there’s<br />

less paperwork and we can take any means<br />

of payment – check, cash, installment.<br />

With the government sector, we can only<br />

ask for checks.” H<br />

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />

CUBATRADE<br />

33


American Airlines and the Flight Symbo logo are marks of American Airlines, Inc.<br />

oneworld is a mark of the oneworld A liance, LLC. © 2016 American Airlines, Inc. A l rights reserved.<br />

Mayor Sylvester Turner,<br />

Executive Officer of Houston<br />

A the entrance to Havana<br />

Harbor: Pierre Le Moyne,<br />

founder of Mobile<br />

TOURISM<br />

Getting a Little Respect<br />

Concerns that U.S. visitors could overwhelm Cuba’s tourism<br />

infrastructure sparked the creation of a group devoted to<br />

‘sustainable’ tourism<br />

In four decades of handling U.S. travel<br />

to Cuba, Bob Guild was used to seeing<br />

mainly Cuban-Americans visiting family<br />

and a stream of non-Cubans with deep<br />

interests in the island, from art to history<br />

to socialism. But what happens when<br />

that trickle becomes a tsunami and new<br />

U.S. visitors, who know little about Cuba,<br />

simply seek bragging rights for a trip to a<br />

long-forbidden place?<br />

Guild and fellow Cuba travel veterans<br />

Gail Reed and Walter Turner mulled that<br />

question as the Obama administration<br />

began expanding rules for U.S. travel to<br />

the island, allowing individuals to visit<br />

without groups and authorizing commercial<br />

airline and cruise service.<br />

Their answer: A new organization<br />

called Responsible Ethical Cuba Travel,<br />

or RESPECT, which set out principles<br />

to guide U.S. travel service providers<br />

organizing trips to Cuba. Those 17<br />

principles include promoting mutual<br />

understanding (not regime change),<br />

pursuing sustainable development, and<br />

encouraging U.S. visitors to learn about<br />

Cuba from Cuban sources. They also call<br />

for advocacy to end all restrictions on<br />

American travel to Cuba.<br />

RESPECT formally launched in<br />

December 2016, with Guild (of Marazul<br />

Charters), Reed (of medical nonprofit<br />

MEDICC), and Turner (of human-rights<br />

group Global Exchange) as its co-coordinators.<br />

They hope RESPECT can serve<br />

as a forum to exchange views with Cuban<br />

organizations and help solve problems<br />

for group members, who include travel<br />

agents, tour operators, nonprofits, and<br />

academics.<br />

This September, dozens of<br />

RESPECT’s 150-plus members gathered<br />

in Cuba to discuss plans, including<br />

application for nonprofit status and hiring<br />

part-time staff. But as talks began, the<br />

Trump administration warned Americans<br />

not to travel to Cuba and halted issuing<br />

new U.S. visas from Havana, citing alleged<br />

“sonic” attacks against U.S. diplomats.<br />

The group quickly issued a statement<br />

of opposition. “We fear that such<br />

hasty action by the Trump administration,<br />

independent of scientific evidence, may be<br />

motivated by politics rather than health<br />

and well-being,” co-coordinator Turner<br />

said in the communiqué.<br />

At the meeting, members worried<br />

Trump’s moves would undermine their<br />

By Doreen Hemlock<br />

Keeping it Real: Walter Turner and Bob Guild in Havana with fellow travel veterans.<br />

travel programs. That includes the Cuba<br />

initiative of Pennsylvania’s Arcadia<br />

University, which has sent more than 200<br />

students to study in Cuba since 2013, simultaneously<br />

bringing Cuban scholars to<br />

its campus. “Part of normalizing relations<br />

is having a two-way exchange, and we<br />

hope to keep that,” said Angelica Salazar,<br />

the program’s resident director in Cuba.<br />

Tom Popper, president of insight-<br />

Cuba – which has brought nearly 20,000<br />

Americans on people-to-people tours to<br />

Cuba – said he joined RESPECT out of<br />

concerns over maintaining Cuba’s distinct<br />

identity as tourism booms. “Today, you<br />

go to a nightclub in Cuba, and they play<br />

the most up-to-date techno and then they<br />

play a 60-year-old song, and everyone<br />

knows the words and sings it at the top of<br />

their lungs,” said Popper. “RESPECT is<br />

about honoring and preserving that.”<br />

Popper hopes RESPECT can<br />

encourage tour groups to travel outside<br />

of Havana to avoid over-concentration.<br />

And he hopes newcomers to Cuba’s travel<br />

industry will embrace sustainability. “The<br />

tough part is being tempted by the quick<br />

buck, instead of building your business for<br />

the long-term,” Popper said. H<br />

Perfection Services Limited (PSL) in partnership with the Hoover<br />

Ferguson Group is successfully operating as an integrated service provider<br />

of chemical tanks, cargo carrying units, catalyst bins, modular containers,<br />

PSL Pipe Rack and other related rental products and services to the global<br />

energy, petro-chemical and general industrial end markets.<br />

The units available from the PSL yard at La Brea in Trinidad and are rigid<br />

steel units certified to the DNV 2.7-1 / 12079 industry standards. Units offer<br />

a safe and cost effective method of transport of goods to the offshore rigs<br />

or facilities and are all in compliance with the latest industry standards.<br />

PSL is accredited by UKAS for inspection and offers nondestructive testing and certification services.<br />

PSL will be the first company to achieve ISO/IEC 17020 Accreditation in Trinidad and Tobago and<br />

the Caribbean Region.<br />

Office Locations:<br />

North Office : #2 Forest Gate, Noel Trace<br />

Santa Margarita, St Augustine,<br />

Trinidad & Tobago, W.I.<br />

T: (868) 662- 2975 • F: (868) 663-9527<br />

South Office : Lot 14 La Brea Industrial Estate,<br />

La Brea, Trinidad & Tobago, W.I.<br />

T: (868) 648-8330<br />

COMING IN<br />

EXPLORE CUBA.<br />

ALL OF IT.<br />

Now flying to six cities from Miami<br />

Whether you choose Havana, Cienfuegos, Holguin, Santa Clara,<br />

Varadero or Camaguey, now you can fly nonstop from Miami.<br />

With frequent daily flights, low fares and easy booking,<br />

American makes it easy to get there.<br />

Contacts:<br />

Desmond Roberts, CEO/Managing Director<br />

T: (868)632-7232 • E: d.roberts@perfectionservicesltd.com<br />

Jude Legendre, General Manager<br />

T: (868) 397-5833 • E: j.legendre@perfevtionservicesltd.com<br />

David Soverall, Business Development<br />

T: (868) 680-7727 • E: d.soverall@perfectionservicesltd.com<br />

www.perfectionservicesltd.com<br />

JANUARY<br />

• Economic Predictions<br />

A look at the year ahead for Cuba’s economy<br />

• Medicine in Cuba<br />

Medical training for US students<br />

• Greening the Economy<br />

How entrepreneurs are growing money from trees<br />

• Energy<br />

Azcuba’s plans for energy from sugar<br />

34 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 CUBATRADE<br />

Book today at aa.com or call your local travel agent.<br />

HOUSTON SPECIAL REPORT Vol. 1 • No. 6 • JUNE 2017<br />

TRUMP’S CUBA POLICY: WHAT IT MEANS FOR BUSINESS<br />

THE PROMISE OF ZED MARIEL<br />

Cuba’s special industrial zone<br />

THE NEW STAR OF HAVANA<br />

Kempinski’s grand opening<br />

BOOSTING NESTLE’S CUBA BRAND<br />

The Swiss firm doubles down<br />

TOBACCO COUNTRY<br />

Tourism transforms Viñales<br />

The Magazine for Trade & Investment in Cuba<br />

June/July 2017<br />

HOUSTON<br />

OUT<br />

FRONT<br />

A special report on the<br />

Texas metropolis and its<br />

outreach to Cuba<br />

CUBA<br />

HOW TO TRAVEL TO CUBA NOW: SPECIAL REPORT<br />

The Magazine for Trade & Investment in Cuba<br />

August 2017<br />

SISTER CITIES<br />

Mobile’s long relationship with<br />

Havana, yesterday and today<br />

THE MILITARY FOOTPRINT<br />

How much of the economy is theirs?<br />

GRANTS FOR ENTREPRENEURS<br />

The U.S. government program<br />

THE CORPORATE FALLOUT<br />

Business reactions to Trump<br />

TIME TO TEE UP?<br />

Cuba’s quest for more golf<br />

35


CUBA’s<br />

ENERGY<br />

REVOLUTION<br />

With cheap oil from Venezuela drying up, Cuba pushes forward with<br />

plans to expand oil and gas production while shifting to renewable<br />

energy. The goal? To become energy independent<br />

By Doreen Hemlock<br />

RISING TO THE DEMAND?<br />

Cupet workers ascend a refinery tank.<br />

When the Soviet Union collapsed in 1991, Cuba lost its hefty<br />

supplies of subsidized Soviet oil that it used domestically<br />

and sold on world markets for hard currency. Cuban farmers<br />

turned from tractors to oxen and city dwellers from buses to bicycles,<br />

as imported oil and foreign exchange dwindled.<br />

Struggling with blackouts, the country began an aggressive drive<br />

to develop its own oil and gas production. Later, it supplemented<br />

domestic supplies with heavily subsidized oil from Venezuela.<br />

Now, as Venezuela’s economy nosedives and shipments of subsidized<br />

Venezuelan oil shrink, Cuba again is pushing to become more<br />

energy independent. The island wants to lure investment to expand<br />

oil and gas production. It’s also shifting into renewable energy, aiming<br />

to burn more sugar waste and other biomass as fuel and to install<br />

new solar and wind farms, often with foreign partners.<br />

This energy report looks at the most recent developments.<br />

36 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 CUBATRADE<br />

37


PART ONE: OIL & GAS<br />

CUBA’s OIL ZONES<br />

While there may be oil in the waters of the Gulf of Mexico<br />

off the coast of Cuba, the island is aiming its fossil fuel<br />

future, at least in the near term, on land-based operations<br />

Cuba produces nearly half the oil and gas it uses, but that still<br />

leaves a yawning, expensive deficit. To cut the cost of importing<br />

the shortfall, the government wants to produce more.<br />

Drilling for oil far from the island’s shore is a tough and<br />

expensive sell for the global oil firms that Cuba needs to help<br />

develop its potential reserves, but there is interest among foreign<br />

investors in expanding production in wells on land—and using<br />

pipes that extend horizontally into the sea to grab oil near the<br />

coast line.<br />

State oil group Union Cuba Petroleo (Cupet) hosted an<br />

energy, oil and gas conference in Havana in late September to<br />

tout business opportunities for drilling and other energy-related<br />

services in Cuba. More than 200 people attended from 70-plus<br />

companies, representing countries as diverse as the United States,<br />

China, Australia, Trinidad & Tobago, Lebanon and Ireland.<br />

Center stage at the event: Melbana Energy Limited, the<br />

small, publicly-traded Australian company that this year raised<br />

$5 million for an onshore block just east of the Varadero oil field,<br />

Cuba’s most productive to date. Melbana signed a production<br />

sharing agreement with Cuba in 2015 to explore the block and<br />

has been assessing its potential since then. It now aims to drill<br />

two onshore wells on the block starting mid-2018 at a projected<br />

cost of between $20 million and $30 million, and it’s looking for<br />

additional partners to help finance the project, said Peter Stickland,<br />

Melbana managing director and chief executive.<br />

“The block is a lot better than we thought when we first<br />

started looking at it,” Stickland told Cuba Trade. He estimated<br />

its exploration potential at 12 billion barrels of oil equivalent in<br />

place, and its recoverable potential of around 600 million barrels,<br />

more oil than the Varadero field. He’s optimistic about finding<br />

partners, since Melbana previously brought in Brazil’s Petrobras<br />

and Italy’s ENI for projects in Australia. Indeed, the company<br />

already has started the permitting process for its wells and has<br />

hired Cupet’s former director of exploration, Rafael Tenreyro, as<br />

its Cuban representative to handle requirements.<br />

Cuba made headlines for decades in its search for oil in deep<br />

waters offshore in the Gulf of Mexico, not far from where rigs<br />

operate in U.S. and Mexican waters. Spain’s Repsol and other<br />

companies have drilled four deep-water wells since 2004 but<br />

made no commercially viable finds. Repsol alone reported spending<br />

more than $100 million in its Cuba ventures.<br />

Expensive explorations of offshore oil potential such as these<br />

are less likely going forward, say analysts, especially in an era of<br />

lower oil prices. Oil majors now prefer to drill offshore where<br />

they know there are deposits to pump, and “Cuba’s offshore oil<br />

reserves have not been proven,” said Jorge Piñon, who leads the<br />

Latin America and Caribbean Energy Program at the Jackson<br />

School of Geosciences of The University of Texas at Austin.<br />

Onshore drilling in Cuba holds promise because of its proven<br />

track record, industry leaders say. Cuba now gets its domestic<br />

production – roughly 45,000 barrels of oil and 3 million cubic<br />

meters of gas per day – from wells drilled on land. While many<br />

have pipe systems that extend as far as three miles out to sea to<br />

pump oil from coastal waters, onshore drilling and production<br />

is much cheaper than offshore because it doesn’t require supply<br />

ships or tankers or rigs in the sea.<br />

“We’re one of the few countries in the world where almost<br />

all the wells are horizontal, and we do it ourselves,” Cupet engineer<br />

Eredio Puentes Gonzalez told Cuba Trade. “We’re used to<br />

working in unfavorable circumstances. So, our philosophy is to<br />

find solutions not only based on engineering but ingenuity.”<br />

Cuba needs onshore investment, however, because its existing<br />

wells are maturing and their production declining – onshore<br />

output has slipped 11 percent in the past decade or so. To raise<br />

production, Cuba needs either to find new productive wells or<br />

employ new technologies to boost output from existing ones<br />

through so-called “secondary recovery,” said Puentes Gonzalez.<br />

U.S. oil industry veteran Lee Hunt, a partner in Texas<br />

consulting firm Hunt Petty LLP, thinks U.S. companies could<br />

get involved in Cuban oil despite Washington’s embargo. Recent<br />

U.S.-Cuba accords call for cooperation dealing with oil spills<br />

and pollution in coastal waters, and much of U.S. oil equipment<br />

aims to protect the environment. Hunt would like the U.S.<br />

government to grant export licenses to sell such U.S. products as<br />

booms, dispersants, and containment devices to Cuba. “With U.S.<br />

purchases, Cuba could reduce the cost of a [drilling] operation by<br />

up to 50 percent,” partly by slashing delivery time on items now<br />

bought in distant China and Europe, Hunt told Cuba Trade.<br />

Houston-based attorney Felix Chevalier said there’s talk of<br />

forming a U.S. Energy Coalition on Cuba, similar to the U.S.<br />

Agriculture Coalition for Cuba, to pursue energy development on<br />

the island and advocate an end to the U.S. embargo. Meanwhile,<br />

under current U.S. law, companies can begin talks with potential<br />

partners for Cuba projects that may be allowed later.<br />

“Sooner or later, the embargo will be lifted,” Chevalier told<br />

a panel discussion in Havana at the Cuba Energy Oil and Gas<br />

conference, organized largely by Global Event Partners of the<br />

United Kingdom.<br />

Some non-U.S. companies are seeking a foothold in Cuba’s<br />

energy industry now before the U.S. embargo ends and before<br />

they face full-on U.S. competition. Among them: businesses from<br />

Trinidad & Tobago, the twin-island nation off Venezuela’s coast<br />

with a rich history in oil and gas. They see a chance to replace<br />

Cuba’s supplies from struggling Venezuela – and to help their<br />

nation become more global.<br />

The National Gas Company Group of Trinidad & Tobago is<br />

interested in developing pipes, storage, and other infrastructure to<br />

supply cooking gas to the central part of Cuba, from Camaguey<br />

to Cienfuegos, said Alvin Dookie, business manager at group<br />

affiliate Phoenix Park Gas Processors Ltd. The likely price tag<br />

for the project: $50 million to $150 million. Trinidad could also<br />

supply the cooking gas for the project, substituting for gas that<br />

Cuba currently buys from Venezuela or other traders. “Our differentiator<br />

is that we are a producer, not a trader” and can ensure<br />

long-term supplies from an island relatively close by, said Dookie.<br />

“If the U.S. embargo is lifted, our comparative advantage goes<br />

away because of U.S. proximity. But right now, Cuba can’t access<br />

U.S. barrels.”<br />

To be sure, foreign companies face challenges in entering<br />

Cuba’s oil and gas business, as Trinidad’s Perfection Services<br />

Limited learned. The small business offers drilling fluids, inspections,<br />

training, and other services for wells. CEO Desmond<br />

Roberts first worked with Cuba in 2004 in a project linked to<br />

Repsol’s deep-water drilling. But when Perfection Services registered<br />

as a commercial supplier in Cuba – a requirement to submit<br />

contract proposals – the process took more than 18 months.<br />

What’s more, securing contracts may require offering Cuba<br />

credit for longer periods than in other countries, squeezing profit<br />

margins. But Perfection Services’ business manager David Soverall<br />

said he prefers steady, long-term relations to big, fast bucks. “If we<br />

know we have a five-year contract, we know we are eating little and<br />

living long,” Soverall said, using a typical Trinidadian expression.<br />

Longer-term, Cuban officials remain confident that major<br />

oil companies will find commercially viable deposits in its deep<br />

waters offshore to help meet the island’s needs. Cupet has been<br />

working with BGP, a division of China’s National Petroleum Co.,<br />

to offer investors more detailed seismic studies and maps of the<br />

ocean floor to help with exploration and potential drilling. Said<br />

Cupet’s business manager Pedro Urquiza: “If God gave oil to<br />

Mexico and the United States, we surely got some too.”<br />

38 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />

CUBATRADE<br />

39


PART TWO:<br />

RENEWABLE ENERGY<br />

As part of its drive to achieve energy<br />

independence, Cuba is pushing to derive<br />

nearly a quarter of its power from renewables<br />

by twelve years from now<br />

Cuba has set a goal to produce 24 percent of its electricity from<br />

renewable sources by 2030, up from about 4 percent in 2014.<br />

Here’s the strategy for that $4 billion-plus plan, as told to Cuba<br />

Trade by Rosell Guerra Campaña, director of renewable energy<br />

at Cuba’s Ministry of Energy and Mines.<br />

The presentation, offered in Spanish, has been edited for<br />

space and clarity.<br />

Rosell Guerra: Our energy policy aims to reduce dependence on<br />

imported fossil fuels and make the environment more sustainable.<br />

By generating 24 percent of our electricity from renewables in<br />

2030, we can substitute 1.5 million tons of fossil fuel per year and<br />

cut carbon dioxide emissions by 6 million tons per year.<br />

To meet our objective, we aim to install 2,284 MW in major,<br />

new generating capacity powered by renewables. That includes<br />

25 biomass plants with a capacity to produce 872 MW, 14 wind<br />

farms that can produce 656 MW, solar parks that can produce 700<br />

MW, and small hydroelectric plants that can produce 56 MW.<br />

The investment for imported equipment and other supplies for<br />

those projects likely will run about $4 billion. And that’s not including<br />

outlays for locally-made products or domestic agriculture.<br />

There’s progress already. So far this year, the state has reached<br />

agreements with foreign companies on renewable energy projects<br />

worth more than $1 billion.<br />

BIOMASS: Of the 25 new bioenergy plants we seek, four have<br />

secured financing and are being developed by the state sugar group<br />

Azcuba. Seven are being negotiated as joint ventures with foreign<br />

partners, including the Ciro Redondo project now under construction.<br />

And there are 14 more projects available in the investment portfolio<br />

open to investors. Azcuba is handling all the biomass projects.<br />

WIND: Of the 14 new wind farms, the state electric company<br />

Union Electrica has financing to develop three. At least<br />

two European companies are looking to develop the others as<br />

100 percent foreign-owned projects. They would sell electricity to<br />

the Union Electrica through power-purchase agreements. Banks<br />

want those companies to measure the wind at the farm sites for a<br />

year before they lend money for turbines and installation. So, the<br />

companies now are working on those studies.<br />

SOLAR: Last year, we built 22 photovoltaic solar parks in<br />

Cuba, and this year, we’re building another 32. With the financing<br />

we’ve secured and negotiations with investors, we expect next<br />

year to add 56 more parks with a capacity of 224 MW, including<br />

100 MW in projects with foreign partners. Things are advancing<br />

so fast that we may increase our plans for generation from new<br />

solar parks from the initially proposed 700MW to 1,200MW by<br />

SWEET ENERGY<br />

State sugar group Azcuba is overseeing plans<br />

for 25 new bioenergy plants<br />

adding more parks to the investment portfolio.<br />

HYDROELECTRICITY: The new hydroelectric plants<br />

will be small, mostly in mountainous areas. They’ll be added on<br />

existing dams to the exit channels for water used for irrigation<br />

and other purposes.<br />

INSTALLATIONS ON HOMES: We aim to install<br />

200,000 more solar water heaters on homes by 2022, helping to<br />

cut dependence on electricity from power plants. Studies show<br />

each solar water heater saves the grid an average 22 kilowatt<br />

hours per month. The government is subsidizing the price of<br />

the heaters, and it’s modernizing and expanding the factory in<br />

Morón in Ciego de Avila province where the heaters are made.<br />

There also are plans to install 20,000 more solar panels on<br />

homes, schools and other buildings not connected to the grid,<br />

mainly in rural areas.<br />

PRIORITY: The renewables program has top priority for<br />

Cuba, because it helps increase our energy independence and reduces<br />

our energy costs. Less expensive energy spurs the economy.<br />

There’s a social component in all this. Our system guarantees<br />

a minimum level of electricity to residents at very low, subsidized<br />

prices [currently starting at less than 1 U.S. cent per kilowatt hour<br />

and rising progressively based on consumption.] Several years<br />

ago, when oil prices were higher, Cuba was producing electricity<br />

at a cost of about 20 cents per kilowatt hour. Today, with oil prices<br />

lower and some efficiencies, our production cost is down, likely<br />

to around 12 cents per kilowatt hour. But the more we can reduce<br />

the production cost, the better for the state and for the society.<br />

Renewables help the environment, too. While Cuba is not<br />

a major polluter in global terms, the electricity sector is the top<br />

source of emissions in the country. Shifting to renewables can<br />

stem pollution.<br />

CHALLENGES: Financing is a challenge, of course. But<br />

Our energy policy aims to reduce<br />

dependence on imported fossil fuels and<br />

make the environment more sustainable<br />

Rosell Guerra Campaña, director of renewable energy<br />

the government has modernized the law and rules for foreign<br />

investment. We’ve had foreign investors in energy in Cuba for<br />

decades in the oil and gas sector. Canada’s Sherritt International<br />

is a partner in gas venture Energas, which has been producing<br />

electricity for the grid since the 1990s. Energas has expanded<br />

operations numerous times, proof that private production of<br />

electricity for the grid can work.<br />

STRENGTHS: Some countries have conflicts in energy<br />

policy, because their electric companies discourage energy<br />

production outside their own large power plants. But in Cuba,<br />

we encourage “distributed energy” through smaller plants and on<br />

homes. One reason is that our country gets hit by hurricanes, and<br />

with smaller production units we can isolate different parts of the<br />

system when one part is damaged by a storm. We’ve also learned<br />

that the closer energy production is to the user, the smaller the<br />

losses in the distribution system. It’s more efficient.<br />

40 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />

CUBATRADE<br />

41


PART THREE:<br />

HERE COMES THE SUN<br />

On the sun-drenched island of Cuba,<br />

the problem with solar power is not<br />

technology or an adequate supply of<br />

solar radiation. It’s financing.<br />

Cuba is preparing to open its first solar park 100 percent-owned<br />

by foreign investors. Hive Energy of the United Kingdom aims<br />

to start construction mid-2018 on a 50MW project in the Mariel<br />

Special Economic Development Zone, one of the largest solar<br />

ventures on the island.<br />

Hive Energy was awarded rights to the project in May 2016,<br />

and it signed an agreement in September 2017 for Cuba’s electric<br />

company Union Electrica to buy the power generated from the<br />

solar park for 25 years, said Bernardo Fernandez, the company’s<br />

director for Latin America and the Caribbean. Now, as Hive is<br />

seeking funds to build the project at a cost topping $67 million,<br />

Fernandez told Cuba Trade: “We have to be creative.”<br />

Financing is a key challenge for energy projects in Cuba today,<br />

because the communist-led nation is not a member of international<br />

financial institutions like the World Bank (see story page<br />

58). And while Cuba recently renegotiated its debt with countries<br />

in the Paris Club, it does not have a strong track record in payments<br />

over decades. What’s more, the U.S. embargo and potential<br />

fines from Washington boost the perception of risk, making some<br />

private non-U.S. banks skittish about Cuba business.<br />

“And the Trump presidency has made matters more difficult<br />

for financing,” said Matthew Perks, CEO of New Energy Events,<br />

which organizes the annual Caribbean Renewable Energy Forum.<br />

To finance its project, Hive is asking potential equipment<br />

suppliers in China to extend long repayment terms for their<br />

products, and it’s reaching out to development banks in the<br />

Netherlands and other European nations. Once the solar park<br />

is up and running, it would pay those funders with money received<br />

from Cuba’s electric company for the energy purchased,<br />

said Fernandez.<br />

Hive Energy launched in 2010, tapping incentives for renewables<br />

in the United Kingdom. As those incentives waned, the<br />

company expanded overseas. It now has offices in Spain, Mexico,<br />

Argentina, Mauritius, and Turkey.<br />

In Cuba, Hive’s project enjoys special benefits because of its<br />

location inside the Mariel zone, recently created to lure foreign<br />

investment. Ventures in Mariel pay lower taxes than elsewhere on<br />

the island. They also have access to a “one-stop shop” for government<br />

assistance in permits and other paperwork.<br />

The one-stop office “fast-tracked our project and allowed us<br />

to eliminate roughly six months worth of permitting that we’d<br />

SOLAR PROLIFERATION<br />

Cuban government officials say they may expand their<br />

solar energy production goals<br />

have had to do anywhere else on the island,” Fernandez told the<br />

Caribbean conference in Miami this October.<br />

Yet even in Mariel, land is not owned by foreign ventures.<br />

Hive has a 25-year right of use.<br />

Hive plans to build its Mariel solar project in three separate<br />

sites about seven kilometers (about four miles) apart. Until the<br />

Zone gets more factories that can use the energy, each site will<br />

feed power into the grid bound for a different province: Artemisa,<br />

Havana, and Pinar del Rio, said Fernandez.<br />

Being the first 100-percent foreign-owned solar company<br />

authorized in Cuba presented some challenges, of course. While<br />

Cuban officials understood the project development process<br />

in general terms, they were unfamiliar with some specifics for<br />

renewables, such as the financing mechanisms, Fernandez said.<br />

Cuban officials now are moving up the learning curve, he<br />

told the Caribbean conference. Thanks to that learning, Fernandez<br />

is optimistic that Cuba will produce 24 percent of its<br />

electricity from renewables—though it may take a bit longer than<br />

2030 because of extra time needed to secure financing.<br />

Hive’s funding plan is similar to that of Havana Energy of<br />

There’s real tangible progress in Hive<br />

Energy signing the power-purchase<br />

agreement and Havana Energy securing<br />

finance for its first plant<br />

Matthew Perks, CEO of New Energy Events<br />

the United Kingdom, which acquired capital from China; Havana<br />

Energy’s first joint-venture plant with Cuba’s state sugar group<br />

obtained supplier credit from the Shanghai Electric Co. Now,<br />

Havana Energy is looking to develop wind and solar projects in<br />

Cuba too, said CEO Andrew MacDonald.<br />

“There’s real tangible progress in Hive Energy signing the<br />

power-purchase agreement and Havana Energy securing finance<br />

for its first plant,” said New Energy Events’ Perks. “The big question<br />

remains: Will finance flow to more Cuban projects, given the<br />

current political situation?” H<br />

42 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />

CUBATRADE<br />

43


Where To Invest<br />

in Cuba Today:<br />

The New Portfolio<br />

The latest portfolio highlights Cuba’s<br />

economic aspirations in a refreshingly<br />

frank way, but it glosses over what<br />

has stalled foreign investment for years<br />

By Nick Swyter<br />

As a play to attract much-needed foreign investment, each<br />

year Cuba unveils a portfolio of projects open to foreign<br />

participation to kick off the Feria Internacional de la<br />

Habana, the country’s largest annual general interest trade fair.<br />

The 2017 portfolio is the largest Cuba has unveiled since it<br />

first started sharing the reports in 2014. It contains 456 project<br />

proposals open to foreign participation – up from 396 in 2016.<br />

The opportunities represent more than $10.7 billion in potential<br />

foreign investment into sectors such as tourism, biotechnology,<br />

construction, energy, agriculture, and mining.<br />

The portfolio is presented in a refreshingly frank way that<br />

makes it necessary reading for any potential investor. It details the<br />

country’s investment advantages, legal structures, and expectations<br />

from foreign investors. Each investment proposal includes<br />

information on the project’s location, estimated costs, nature of<br />

partnership with Cuban parties, and contact information.<br />

What’s missing from the pages of the 300-page report is<br />

a candid discussion on the obstacles for investment in Cuba. It<br />

doesn’t mention the prolonged approval processes, restrictive<br />

hiring requirements, lack of wholesale markets, and financing<br />

restrictions that are emblematic of doing business on the island.<br />

Nevertheless, there are signs Cuba is gradually confronting<br />

the issues stalling foreign investment. Minister of Trade and<br />

Foreign Investment Rodrigo Malmierca Díaz opened this year’s<br />

trade fair by announcing that Cuba had attracted about $2 billion<br />

in investment agreements so far this year – enough to meet<br />

Cuba’s goal of capturing $2 to $2.5 billion a year. By comparison,<br />

Malmierca opened the 2016 trade fair by announcing that Cuba<br />

had only captured $1.3 billion in the two years following the<br />

approval of a law that eased restrictions on foreign investment.<br />

But approving projects with foreign participation doesn’t<br />

necessarily guarantee money will immediately pour in. About<br />

$2.5 billion of Cuba’s recent foreign investment approvals have<br />

come from deals with Spanish, British, and Chinese investors to<br />

develop luxury golf resorts. It’s not clear when those resorts will<br />

44 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />

be completed, or even break ground.<br />

Pressure will likely mount for the Cuban government to<br />

accelerate foreign investment in the coming year. The Cuban<br />

economy contracted by 0.9 percent in 2016 – marking the country’s<br />

first recession since the “special period” of the ‘90s. While<br />

the Cuban economy showed some promise of recovering in<br />

the first half of 2017, Hurricane Irma hampered several crucial<br />

sectors such as tourism and agriculture. Those factors, along with<br />

plummeting oil deliveries from Venezuela and souring relations<br />

with the U.S. leaves Cuba with few options but to find more<br />

international business partners.<br />

Those seeking to play a role in the future of the Cuban economy<br />

will benefit from reading the new portfolio. It offers many<br />

clues, albeit few guarantees, on how the Cuban economy will<br />

transform after Raúl Castro leaves the presidency next year.<br />

Priorities<br />

The 2017 edition of the foreign investment portfolio provides<br />

details on which sectors of the Cuban economy have momentum<br />

and which ones need a revival.<br />

Tourism remains a priority for the Cuban government since<br />

it produces much-needed foreign currency. The 2017 portfolio<br />

lists 152 proposals – up from 114 in 2016. The proposals include<br />

opportunities to build and commercialize new hotels; management<br />

contracts for existing hotels; management and expansion<br />

contracts for marinas; the establishment of an equestrian club;<br />

upgrades to a restaurant and food plaza; the creation of nature<br />

parks; development of a sport fishing and diving center; and the<br />

construction of several water parks.<br />

Tourism in Cuba is one of the few sectors that shows real<br />

promise. The Ministry of Tourism recently reported it welcomed<br />

more than 4 million tourists in the first ten months of 2017 –<br />

topping last year’s 4 million mark in spite of Hurricane Irma<br />

causing some cancellations.<br />

Preparing for the coming visitor boom: Construction workers restore a<br />

building on the edge of Plaza Vieja in Old Havana. Tourism projects top<br />

the list of international investment opportunities in the new Portfolio.


Top: Pages from the 2017-2018 Foreign Investment Portfolio<br />

Center left: Oil refinery of the government owned Comercial Cupet S.A.<br />

Center right: A farmer in Holguín province carries bananas<br />

Bottom left: A bulldozer sits next to a construction site in Old Havana<br />

Bottom right: Tourists enjoy a horse ride in Viñales province<br />

The Cuban government appears to have a clear plan on how<br />

to steadily increase tourist arrivals. Understanding there soon<br />

might not be enough hotel rooms for the growing supply of tourists,<br />

the government has set a goal to increase the total number of<br />

rooms from the current 60,000 to about 108,000 by 2030. Until<br />

then, the government has partly dealt with the room shortage by<br />

approving several U.S. cruise lines and allowing more Cubans to<br />

open private bed-and-breakfasts called casas particulares (though<br />

the Cuban government recently suspended the issuance of new<br />

licenses for casas particulares, private restaurants and several<br />

other private sector activities).<br />

The government also appears to be enthusiastic about expanding<br />

the variety of its accommodations. The opening of the Gran<br />

Hotel Manzana Kempinski, the first Cuban hotel to meet international<br />

5-star rating standards, shows Cuba is attempting to attract a<br />

wealthier clientele. Several proposals to develop eco-tourism parks<br />

and accommodations shows an interest in welcoming adventure<br />

travelers. The approval of luxury golf resorts, despite their undefined<br />

future, also demonstrates a willingness to try new things.<br />

While the abundance of tourism proposals demonstrates momentum<br />

in that part of the economy, the other sectors with more<br />

than 50 proposals in the portfolio show a need for transformation.<br />

The 2017 portfolio lists 104 proposals in agro-food – an<br />

increase from the 76 proposals in 2016. There is an urgency to<br />

stimulate food production because the country imports anywhere<br />

from 60 to 80 percent of its food. The government has continually<br />

stumbled in reducing dependence on imports, so the emphasis<br />

on agro-food proposals may reflect the government’s willingness<br />

to invite foreign partners.<br />

The portfolio’s agro-food chapter mostly consists of proposals<br />

to domestically produce imported commodities, as well as some<br />

projects that aim to export certain crops. There are proposals to<br />

boost domestic production of commodities such as poultry products,<br />

beef, pork, seafood, dairy products, rice, corn, fruits, and vegetables.<br />

There is also a proposal to produce wheat, which the country<br />

does not currently produce domestically in spite of it regularly<br />

importing more than $200 million worth of the crop annually.<br />

There are also several agriculture-related proposals that aren’t<br />

aimed at food production. Cuba has recently had success exporting<br />

marabú charcoal and is seeking partners to boost production for<br />

exportation and for use at biomass plants. There are also proposals<br />

aimed at refrigeration and boiler services, avian vaccines, exotic<br />

leathers, flowers, wood boards, pine resin, and small boat repairs.<br />

Not included in the agro-food chapter are several proposals<br />

aimed at food processing. They appear in the Mariel Special Economic<br />

Development Zone (ZED Mariel) chapter, which means<br />

there are tax incentives and long-term contracts available to food<br />

processing investors.<br />

Besides agro-food, energy is one of the sectors of the Cuban<br />

economy that desperately needs revitalization. Cheap oil deliveries<br />

from Venezuela are plummeting and Cuba is pushing the limits<br />

of its existing domestic land wells. The energy shortage has led to<br />

regular blackouts and fuel rationing. The 78 oil proposals in the<br />

2017 portfolio aim to explore potential oil reserves. The 13 renewable<br />

energy proposals aim to generate energy from other sources.<br />

The portfolio lists 76 blocks Cuba is interested in exploring<br />

because they may hold untapped oil reserves. Nineteen of<br />

the blocks are on land, eight are in coastal waters, and 49 are in<br />

Cuba’s section of the Gulf of Mexico.<br />

Four previous attempts to explore oil reserves in Cuba’s<br />

section of the Gulf of Mexico were unsuccessful. Industry leaders<br />

have shown reluctance to invest millions of dollars into deep-sea<br />

exploration in Cuba (see story page 44) especially at a time when<br />

global oil prices are low. At the moment, it’s more feasible for oil<br />

investments to focus on Cuba’s land and coastal blocks.<br />

The portfolio also lists a proposal for “secondary recovery<br />

contracts for deposits being exploited.” Put simply, this means<br />

Cuba needs foreign investment to extract oil from places it’s<br />

known to exist, but needs new methods to acquire.<br />

There is also a proposal for a fuel storage base in the province<br />

of Matanzas, where the majority of Cuba’s oilfields exists.<br />

Besides oil, Cuba is also looking at renewables to fulfill its<br />

energy needs. The Cuban government has set a target of producing<br />

24 percent of its energy needs from renewable resources<br />

by 2030. The portfolio lists 11 proposals for biomass plants, one<br />

proposal for a wind farm, and one proposal for solar farm. There<br />

are fewer proposals than last year, which is attributed to several<br />

projects recently earning approval.<br />

Besides proposals focusing on tourism, agro-food, and energy,<br />

the portfolio lists many other noteworthy opportunities. Potential<br />

investors are encouraged to read the chapters that detail opportunities<br />

in sectors such as water, construction, biotechnology, and<br />

mining.<br />

What’s new<br />

For the most part, the 2017 portfolio resembles last year’s edition.<br />

Many of the proposals are identical to the ones shared in 2016,<br />

which means they are still open to foreign participation.<br />

There are, however, several noticeable additions to the new<br />

portfolio.<br />

This year’s ZED Mariel chapter contains 50 proposals – up<br />

from 24 in last year’s portfolio. The proposals focus on sectors<br />

such as biotechnology, manufacturing, food processing, construction,<br />

transportation, and real estate. Some of the most notable<br />

additions to this year’s ZED Mariel chapter include an electric<br />

Oil<br />

Construction<br />

Agro-food<br />

Tourism<br />

46 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017


The Portfolio of Opportunities for<br />

Foreign Investment by Sector<br />

(number of projects)<br />

Sector 2016-2017 2017-2018<br />

Tourism 114 152<br />

Agro-food 76 104<br />

Oil 87 78<br />

Renewable Energy 23 13<br />

Sugar 13 7<br />

Mining 13 10<br />

Drugs and Biotechnology 15 15<br />

ZED Mariel 24 50<br />

Proposals listed in the ZED Mariel chapter have several advantages<br />

over the ones located in other parts of Cuba. The benefits include<br />

long-term contracts that can be renewed, a willingness to allow 100<br />

percent foreign ownership, and no tax on profits for the first 10<br />

years of operation.<br />

Total 395 456<br />

motorbike assembly plant; a metals transformation center; a<br />

mattress and pillow production plant; facilities that produce<br />

several types of containers; catering services; a sausage factory; a<br />

tile production plant; warehouse construction; and a solid waste<br />

management system.<br />

Proposals listed in the ZED Mariel chapter have several<br />

advantages over the ones located in other parts of Cuba. The<br />

benefits include long-term contracts that can be renewed, a<br />

willingness to allow 100 percent foreign ownership, and no tax<br />

on profits for the first 10 years of operation (and only 12 percent<br />

after that). ZED Mariel is also located next to a refurbished port<br />

and container terminal that Cuba hopes to turn into a transshipment<br />

hub for the Americas.<br />

Potential investors in several sectors have few options but<br />

to establish their projects in the zone. Nearly all the portfolio<br />

proposals with a focus on biotechnology and food processing are<br />

located in the three-year-old zone.<br />

ZED Mariel leaders also appear to be taking steps to<br />

correct an often-repeated criticism of doing business in Cuba:<br />

slow approval processes. Twelve of the zone’s 31 authorized<br />

users were approved this year, according to state-controlled<br />

media. The zone’s front office also recently created a “one-stop<br />

shop” to handle all the paperwork and approval processes for<br />

potential investors. The entity is intended to save potential<br />

investors from sharing project plans with countless layers of<br />

Cuban bureaucracy.<br />

Beyond ZED Mariel, there are several sectors with exciting<br />

new proposals featured in the portfolio. Cuba is now seeking<br />

the help of foreign investors to boost production of food such as<br />

seafood, soft drinks, wheat, vinegar, and pasta. In tourism, there<br />

are opportunities to build water parks, revitalize restaurants and<br />

food plazas, and create nature facilities for environment-oriented<br />

travelers. In construction, there are new proposals for beach<br />

dredging, a light fiber-cement panel factory, and a dry mortar<br />

production plant.<br />

The 2017 portfolio also includes an entirely new chapter<br />

focused on culture, which includes the audiovisual proposals<br />

from the previous portfolio. The chapter’s two new proposals<br />

aim to showcase Cuban performers and artists to international<br />

markets.<br />

US on the sidelines<br />

The Trump administration’s new sanctions on travel and business<br />

with Cuba undoubtedly limits U.S. companies from injecting certain<br />

foreign direct investment into Cuba. But the new regulations<br />

haven’t transformed the new portfolio into a blacklist either.<br />

In addition to adding restrictions on individual travel to the<br />

island, the new rules bar U.S. citizens from conducting transactions<br />

with a State Department list of 180 entities linked to<br />

Cuba’s military, intelligence, and security services. U.S. companies<br />

may still work with several state-owned enterprises and<br />

the private sector, but many of the new portfolio’s most exciting<br />

opportunities require a partnership with a banned entity.<br />

ZED Mariel was included on the State Department list,<br />

which means the zone’s 50 proposals are mostly off-limits to U.S.<br />

investors for now. Rimco, Caterpillar’s dealer for Puerto Rico and<br />

the eastern Caribbean, will be able to operate a planned dealer<br />

facility in ZED Mariel because it signed a deal with the zone a<br />

week before the new regulations were approved.<br />

The State Department list also includes GAESA, the Cuban<br />

military’s massive business conglomerate that owns prominent<br />

tourism companies such as Gaviota and Habaguanex. Gaviota<br />

owns the bulk of Cuba’s luxury hotels, marinas, and tour agencies,<br />

among other businesses. Habaguanex owns boutique hotels,<br />

restaurants, and stores frequented by tourists in Old Havana.<br />

To the discontent of several Cuban-American lawmakers,<br />

state-owned tourism companies such as Cubanacan and Gran<br />

Caribe do not appear on the State Department list. Both of those<br />

groups are seeking to sign management contracts with foreign hotel<br />

companies for properties of various sizes across the island. They<br />

are also seeking partners to build and commercialize new hotels.<br />

Nevertheless, many of the most attractive hotel management<br />

contract proposals remain in the hands of Gaviota. The company<br />

owns nearly all management contract proposals for large hotels<br />

with 5-star ratings.<br />

Proposals to manufacture furniture, repair boats, produce tin<br />

cans, and boost chicken meat output are also off-limits to U.S.<br />

companies because the involved Cuban party appears on the<br />

State Department list.<br />

However, the new regulations did not touch many of the<br />

trade embargo exceptions that allow U.S. companies to do<br />

business with Cuba. The exceptions include selling Cuba goods<br />

such as telecommunications equipment, food, medicine, medical<br />

devices, environmental protection equipment, and certain items<br />

that will be used by the private sector.<br />

The exceptions don’t represent the type of foreign direct investment<br />

Cuba urgently needs, but it keeps the door to Cuba open. H<br />

48 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />

CUBATRADE<br />

49


Top: The former home of Ricardo Subirana y<br />

Lobo, Cuba’s last ambassador to Israel<br />

Bottom: The skyline of Tel Aviv, Israel’s business<br />

and cultural capital<br />

ISRAEL’s ELUSIVE CUBA<br />

CONNECTION<br />

The two countries maintained<br />

informal contacts for years,<br />

helped along by Fidel’s underlying<br />

sympathy for the Jewish<br />

people...<br />

After decades of hostile relations, a trade delegation<br />

traveled from Tel Aviv to Havana in search of opportunities<br />

to invest in and develop new business in Cuba<br />

Story and photos by Larry Luxner<br />

Overlooking the coastal road hugging the Mediterranean<br />

Sea north of Tel Aviv, a cream-colored villa with a stucco<br />

roof sits surrounded by a high white concrete wall. To its<br />

immediate left is the Herzliyya Medical Center, and to its right, a<br />

glass-walled condo complex.<br />

There is no plaque, no marker—nothing to indicate that this<br />

mansion on Ramat Yam Street was once the house of Ricardo Subirana<br />

y Lobo—a prominent German-Jewish-Cuban businessman,<br />

confidant of Fidel Castro, and Cuba’s last ambassador to Israel.<br />

More than 44 years have passed since the Cuban flag<br />

fluttered proudly atop this villa. It came down in 1973, when<br />

Havana—in a show of solidarity with the Arab world—severed<br />

ties with the Jewish state following the Yom Kippur War.<br />

But the two countries maintained informal contacts for<br />

years, helped along by Fidel’s underlying sympathy for the Jewish<br />

people and the tenacity of an ex-Mossad spymaster declared<br />

persona non grata by the State Department. And ever since<br />

President Obama’s historic 2016 trip to Cuba, business ties have<br />

warmed up considerably.<br />

Consider the following:<br />

• In October 2016, for the first time ever, Israel abstained—<br />

along with the United States—in the annual United Nations<br />

ritual condemning the U.S. trade embargo. This allowed the<br />

resolution to pass the UN General Assembly by a vote of 191-0.<br />

• In early October, Culture Minister Miri Regev traveled to<br />

Cuba, marking the first time since 1973 an Israeli cabinet minister<br />

has set foot on the island. “This is a private family vacation<br />

and had nothing to do with her position as a government minister,”<br />

her spokesperson said of the trip, which was first reported by<br />

the Israeli newspaper Haaretz.<br />

• In early November, Cuba’s famed Lizt Alfonso Dance<br />

Company gave four sellout performances at the Tel Aviv Opera<br />

House, followed by concerts in Ashdod, Jerusalem, and Haifa.<br />

It was the first cultural visit of its kind to Israel in four decades.<br />

Cuba’s famous Buena Vista Social Club also plans to tour the<br />

country.<br />

• On Nov. 9, the Israel-Latin America Chamber of Commerce<br />

held a “Doing Business in Cuba” seminar in Tel Aviv.<br />

50 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017


Top left: Stained-glass menorah and map of Cuba in the<br />

Comunidad Or Jadash, a synagogue in Santa Clara<br />

Top right: Wilbert Wilson, a Jewish bartender who<br />

works at Havana’s Hotel Raquel<br />

Bottom: Havana’s Patronato, the largest of Cuba’s five<br />

still-functioning synagogues<br />

Attended by 40 or so Israeli business executives, the three-hour<br />

briefing, presented in Hebrew, was a prelude to the planned visit<br />

to Cuba of an Israeli trade delegation in December.<br />

That all this is happening in the absence of formal diplomatic<br />

ties between Havana and Jerusalem is even more incredible.<br />

“There is, of course, interest in renewing our relations with<br />

Cuba, along with other countries that severed their ties with<br />

us,” said Yoed Magen, director of the Israeli Foreign Ministry’s<br />

department of Central America, Mexico and Caribbean affairs,<br />

when Cuba Trade asked if such ties would be restored anytime<br />

soon. “But it’s not going to be that easy.”<br />

Earlier this year, Israel restored diplomatic relations with<br />

Nicaragua’s left-leaning Sandinista government after a seven-year<br />

hiatus, as part of a growing interest in Latin America that in<br />

September also saw Prime Minister Binyamin Netanyahu make<br />

the first-ever visit by an Israeli head of state to Latin America<br />

(he spent 10 days in Argentina, Mexico, and Colombia before<br />

heading to New York for a speech at the United Nations).<br />

Magen, a former Israeli ambassador to Panama and Colombia,<br />

acknowledged that “last year, we changed the way we voted on<br />

Cuba [at the UN] along with the Americans. However, U.S.-Cuba<br />

relations stand on their own. We don’t depend on them, and<br />

they certainly don’t depend on us. It’s much more complex.”<br />

Pushed for details, he added with a smile: “If there are secret<br />

talks going on [with Cuba] like there were with Nicaragua, we<br />

can’t comment on that. You know how it is.”<br />

Yes, we do. This year, following Donald Trump’s crackdown<br />

on U.S. travel to Cuba, Israel reversed course and went back to<br />

its traditional support of the embargo—voting, along with the<br />

United States, against the UN resolution to condemn it. Observers<br />

say the Jewish state, which depends heavily on U.S. military<br />

and economic aid, had little choice but to play along.<br />

A Friendship Gone Sour<br />

Israel and Cuba weren’t always at odds with each other. As far<br />

back as 1919, Cuba’s Senate recognized the Jewish people’s<br />

right to national independence, and in 1942—with the Nazi<br />

extermination of Jews already underway—it condemned “in the<br />

most energetic manner the persecution of the Hebrew race by<br />

the authorities of the Axis” (see story, “A brief, shining moment,”<br />

on page 28 to read about a new documentary that looks back at<br />

Cuba’s wartime rescue of 6,000 European Jews).<br />

Under the Batista dictatorship, which lasted from 1952 to<br />

1958, the island’s 15,000 or so Jews enjoyed unparalleled economic<br />

success in retail and manufacturing. And even when Fidel<br />

and his band of revolutionaries overthrew the Batista regime—<br />

and most of Cuba’s Jews fled to South Florida—those warm<br />

relations continued.<br />

“Israel was one of the first states to recognize the revolutionary<br />

government,” notes historian Margalit Bejarano, director<br />

of the Latin America, Spain and Portugal Division at Hebrew<br />

University in Jerusalem. “In the eyes of the Israeli government,<br />

the enthusiasm that surrounded Castro’s revolution was similar<br />

to the atmosphere of the nascent Israel in 1948. Foreign Minister<br />

Golda Meir offered technical assistance to Cuba, not only as a<br />

diplomatic tool, but because she felt an ideological affinity with<br />

the Cuban Socialist revolution and was committed to assisting<br />

developing countries.”<br />

Yet that friendship was not destined to last. Despite Fidel’s<br />

adamant opposition to anti-Semitism and his condemnation of<br />

Holocaust deniers, the Castro regime became closely identified<br />

with the Palestinian cause. After the Six-Day War of 1967, Cuban<br />

state media began attacking “Israeli aggression” and Havana<br />

quietly began collaborating with Yasser Arafat’s Palestine Liberation<br />

Organization to train guerrillas.<br />

American Jews and Cuban exiles soon discovered they had<br />

shared interests, especially when it came to influencing lawmakers<br />

in Washington. Joe Garcia, a former executive director of the<br />

Cuban American National Foundation who went on to represent<br />

Florida’s 26th congressional district in the House of Representatives,<br />

said the Miami-based CANF modeled itself after an<br />

even more powerful lobby: the American Israel Public Affairs<br />

Committee. In fact, one of CANF’s earliest employees was a<br />

Cuban-American woman of Jewish origin who had previously<br />

worked at AIPAC.<br />

Bejarano, in a 2015 article in the Israel Journal of Foreign<br />

Affairs, wrote that the September 1973 rupture of Cuban-Israeli<br />

diplomatic ties “was Castro’s personal, and apparently impulsive,<br />

decision,” and that it came after intense pressure from Libyan<br />

President Muammar Qadhafi at a non-aligned conference in<br />

Algeria. Cuban soldiers even fought alongside the Syrians in the<br />

Yom Kippur War, only a month after that conference.<br />

Cuba’s contempt for official Israeli policies continued, despite<br />

the eventual collapse of the Soviet Union which drove the<br />

island to economic desperation. Yet anti-Semitism was never a<br />

problem. For years, Cuba’s 1,000 or so Jews have received special<br />

rations for kosher meat, and under an arrangement code-named<br />

“Operation Cigar,” hundreds of them have been allowed to<br />

resettle in Israel. (In December 1998, Fidel himself visited the<br />

Patronato synagogue in Havana’s Vedado district, where he put<br />

a kipa on his head and helped light Chanukah candles. A photo<br />

taken during that two-hour visit hangs on the walls of the Patronato<br />

to this day.)<br />

But official respect for Jewish tradition didn’t easily translate<br />

into business deals.<br />

Moisés Asís, a former Hebrew teacher at the Patronato, now<br />

lives in Miami. He said that in late 1991, while on a U.S. lecture<br />

tour, the World Jewish Congress invited him to visit Israel on an<br />

extended trip that lasted until February 1992.<br />

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />

CUBATRADE<br />

53


Above: Rafi Eitan, one of the Mossad's most celebrated spies, turned a Cuban citrus orchard into a successful export operation<br />

Center: The Israeli-financed Miramar Trade Center along Havana’s Quinta Avenida<br />

Entrance to Jagüey Grande in Matanzas province, where in the early 1990s Israel’s Grupo BM<br />

turned a failed 40,000-hectare citrus orchard into one of Cuba’s most successful export operations<br />

“Later that year, two friends of mine who worked for Cuba’s<br />

Ministerio de Comercio Exterior arranged a meeting for me with<br />

that ministry’s Asia and Africa divisions. I told her that I had<br />

met some Israeli businessmen who had very good trade offers for<br />

Cuba,” he said. This included one proposal to buy all available alligator<br />

carcasses and fashion them into expensive purses, shoes, and<br />

jackets. Another involved selling Cuba pesticides, irrigation equipment,<br />

machinery and other essentials for the agriculture industry.<br />

In yet another proposed venture, Kibbutz Ga’ash, a coastal<br />

community north of Tel Aviv, hoped to sell Cuba emergency lamps<br />

with rechargeable solar batteries for public street illumination—at<br />

a time when the island was suffering daily blackouts—as well as<br />

battery-powered pens for detecting counterfeit U.S. currency.<br />

“The director replied, ‘It seems interesting, but we should<br />

consult first with the Palestinians.’ I was astonished,” Asís recalled.<br />

“Of course there was no further contact. After this, I understood<br />

that I had to bring out my family to live in another country.”<br />

From Espionage to Irrigation<br />

Rafi Eitan had much better luck.<br />

One of the Mossad’s most celebrated spies, Eitan was<br />

famous back home for having masterminded the 1960 capture<br />

of Nazi war criminal Adolf Eichmann in Buenos Aires. Less<br />

admirably, Eitan was also the handler for Jonathan Pollard—a<br />

U.S. Navy analyst who in 1985 was caught spying for Israel and<br />

sentenced to life imprisonment. Declared persona non grata by<br />

Washington, Eitan surfaced in Cuba, where his unusual friendship<br />

with Fidel landed the former spy his first contract with the<br />

Cuban government.<br />

Eitan’s company, Grupo BM, gradually turned a failing<br />

40,000-hectare citrus orchard near Jagüey Grande, in the province<br />

of Matanzas, into a successful export operation. BM later<br />

branched out into construction and real estate; in the mid-1990s,<br />

a joint venture under its control—Inmobiliaría Monte Barreto—built<br />

suburban Havana’s Miramar Trade Center, which today<br />

houses the offices of dozens of foreign companies<br />

Yet for years, Eitan’s secretive company refused to discuss<br />

its business in Cuba. Starting in 1994, this reporter visited BM’s<br />

Miramar office, and was immediately shown the door. A repeated<br />

attempt in 2002 also got nowhere. Even as recently as this July, a<br />

polite attempt to interview Sergio Meisler—the company’s Cuba<br />

representative—resulted in a brusque “we don’t talk to reporters”<br />

and a request to vacate the fourth-floor premises, whose walls are<br />

decorated with framed certificates of recognition from Aguas de<br />

La Habana, Quimimport, and other Cuban state entities.<br />

Ronen Peleg, BM’s export manager, finally opened up to<br />

Cuba Trade during a Nov. 9 seminar at Tel Aviv’s Industry House<br />

that was attended by the 90-year-old Eitan and dozens of executives,<br />

academics and potential investors.<br />

“It’s no secret that companies working in Cuba have problems<br />

because of the U.S. embargo,” the Madrid-based businessman<br />

told us. “Most of them try to keep a low profile and not get<br />

into trouble.”<br />

Peleg, 51, has been involved with Grupo BM since January<br />

1993. Over a 20-year period, the company’s involvement in the<br />

Jagüey Grande citrus operation helped generate $680 million in<br />

orange and grapefruit exports for Cuba.<br />

“This started out as a contract to finance and upgrade an<br />

existing citrus orchard,” he explained. “We didn’t invest our own<br />

money. What we brought was know-how and lines of credit from<br />

external entities.”<br />

BM is no longer involved in citrus, nor is it a shareholder<br />

in Monte Barreto, though its operations are still housed in the<br />

Miramar Trade Center’s Edificio Jerusalén—one of six buildings<br />

that make up Cuba’s largest office complex.<br />

Peleg says BM has about 20 employees and an annual turnover<br />

of $25 million. This comes from sales of tractors, agricultural<br />

equipment, fertilizer, irrigation technology and related machinery<br />

to various Cuban state entities. “In Cuba, everybody deals with<br />

the government,” he said. “There’s no other option.”<br />

A Jewish-Themed Hotel in Havana, Cuban Salsa<br />

in Tel Aviv<br />

Although Cuba and Israel have comparable populations (11.2<br />

million and 8.7 million, respectively), the similarities end there.<br />

Cuba, a communist dictatorship, is more than five times the size<br />

of Israel, yet its agriculture-based economy lags far behind that of<br />

democratic Israel, a high-tech Middle East innovator that’s given<br />

the world dozens of inventions ranging from the USB flash drive<br />

to drip irrigation and Waze GPS technology. The result: Cuba’s<br />

annual per-capita income barely reaches $7,000, while tiny Israel’s<br />

exceeds $37,000.<br />

Politically, Israel is among the most pro-American countries<br />

on Earth, siding with Washington on just about every resolution<br />

ever brought before the UN General Assembly. At the same time,<br />

Cuba’s vocal opposition to “U.S. imperialism” is legendary, as is<br />

Havana’s frequent attacks on “Zionist aggression” and the building<br />

of controversial Israeli settlements in the West Bank, which<br />

the Arabs consider occupied territory.<br />

Even so, Israelis seem fascinated with the Caribbean island,<br />

particularly among those whose have just finished their mandatory<br />

army service and want to explore some place besides India, Thailand,<br />

Peru, and other well-worn Israeli backpacker destinations.<br />

These days, Hebrew-speaking tourists can now be heard on<br />

the streets of Old Havana, and some establishments—including<br />

the Hotel Raquel with its Jewish-themed art, kosher-style menu,<br />

and Israeli music playing in the bar—have gone out of their<br />

way to accommodate them. These travelers are also drawn to the<br />

island’s five remaining synagogues (three in Havana including the<br />

Patronato, one in Camagüey, and one in Santiago de Cuba) for<br />

Shabbat dinners and Jewish cultural events.<br />

In Israel itself, Cuba seems to be the rage. Movie posters at<br />

Tel Aviv bus stops advertise an upcoming Buena Vista Social<br />

Club concert, while on Yehuda Macabi Street, the Devidas cigar<br />

shop sells a variety of premium Cuban stogies. On weekend<br />

nights, Israeli youths flock to Alma de Cuba to perfect their<br />

salsa-dancing skills.<br />

Ronen Paldi, an Oregon-based tour operator whose Israeli affiliate,<br />

Polaris International, has been licensed to sell Cuba packages<br />

since 2002, says 7,000 to 10,000 Israelis travel to the island every<br />

54 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />

CUBATRADE 55


Top: A Hebrew-language advertisement for Cuba’s popular Buena Vista Social<br />

Club graces a bus stop along Yehuda Macabi Street in northern Tel Aviv<br />

Bottom: Israeli executives attend a Nov. 9 seminar in Tel Aviv on doing<br />

business in Cuba<br />

year. Even though Cubana de Aviación has an agent in Tel Aviv,<br />

Israelis must still obtain visas through Cuba’s consulate in Athens.<br />

But tourism can work both ways, he pointed out.<br />

“Cubans are starting to travel abroad, and not only to visit<br />

family,” said Paldi, interviewed at Tel Aviv’s Dan Hotel. “I’ve spoken<br />

at some churches in Cuba and see pilgrimages from Cuba to<br />

Israel taking place someday for both Catholics and evangelicals.<br />

When Israel will issue them visas and their finances allow, I’ll be<br />

the one organizing them. The Cubans love Israel and they will<br />

make it happen.”<br />

Paldi, who’s been to the island 41 times, calls Cuba a “virgin<br />

country” that could benefit tremendously from Israeli entrepreneurship<br />

and chutzpah.<br />

“Cuba desperately needs agriculture, and Israelis have a lot<br />

of products to offer. And, more than the Americans, they know<br />

how to work in corrupt and complicated societies like in Africa,”<br />

he told us. “But they don’t have patience, and in Cuba without<br />

patience you can’t move around.”<br />

Israeli Trade Mission to Visit Cuba<br />

Rodrigo X. Carreras, Costa Rica’s former ambassador to both<br />

Israel and Cuba, agrees that “great potential” exists for scientific<br />

cooperation between the two countries, especially in medicine<br />

and agriculture.<br />

“Shimon Peres asked me when I was leaving Israel, if I<br />

would look into the possibility of arranging for him a meeting<br />

with Fidel,” said Carreras, who was posted to Israel from 1988<br />

to 2001 (when Costa Rica’s embassy was still in Jerusalem)<br />

and then again from 2010 to 2016, after the embassy had been<br />

moved to Tel Aviv.<br />

“Fidel had made a declaration affirming the Holocaust as<br />

a reality. That reflected a certain goodwill. I transmitted that<br />

message to friends at the Cuban Foreign Ministry and also to<br />

one of Fidel’s sons,” Carreras told Cuba Trade. “From the Foreign<br />

Ministry, I never got a response, [but] from Dr. Antonio Castro,<br />

some interest. Finally, after a long time, I was told that as long as<br />

the [Israeli] occupation persists, they weren’t interested.”<br />

On the other hand, the fact that Israel is sending a trade delegation<br />

to Havana in December means attitudes among Cuba’s<br />

leadership are clearly shifting. For one thing, Fidel is dead. And<br />

with the uncertainty of continued oil subsidies from Venezuela<br />

and hostile signals coming out of Washington, the island clearly<br />

needs new friends.<br />

“I think the Cubans are very mature these days and very<br />

interested in having decent relations with everyone they can. They<br />

understand much better than before that the world has changed,”<br />

said one Havana-based observer who asked not to be named.<br />

“They’re not taking sides as much as they used to.”<br />

Carlos Alzugaray, Cuba’s former ambassador to the European<br />

Union and a frequent commentator on U.S.-Cuba relations,<br />

says his country’s future ties with Israel rest, to a large degree, on<br />

the Jewish state’s ability to make peace with the Palestinians.<br />

“I don’t think we in Cuba are unsympathetic to the Israeli<br />

tradition. I myself was a big fan of the kibbutz movement,” he<br />

told Cuba Trade recently. “But our attitude toward Israel is contradictory.<br />

As we see it, Israel bases its independence and self-determination<br />

too much on abusing the Palestinians and denying<br />

them their homeland. I don’t know if the Israelis will ever be able<br />

to extricate themselves from this problem.”<br />

In the meantime, business is business, and 15 or so Israelis<br />

participated in the first trade delegation of its kind ever to travel<br />

from Tel Aviv to Havana.<br />

The Dec. 5-7 trip, organized by the Israel-Latin America<br />

Chamber of Commerce, scheduled a seminar at the Hotel Nacional,<br />

a visit to the Mariel Export Processing Zone, and a dinner<br />

hosted by Grupo BM.<br />

According to a Hebrew-language flyer distributed at a Nov.<br />

9 briefing about the trip, “this is the first time in history that we<br />

are taking a delegation to this fascinating island. The local trade<br />

office got special authorization from the president [of Cuba] to<br />

host this delegation because of the special economic distress of<br />

Cuba. Israeli companies can turn this crisis into an opportunity.”<br />

Gabriel Hayon, CEO of the Israel-Latin America chamber,<br />

says the most attractive sectors for Israeli companies in Cuba are<br />

agriculture (poultry, fish, pigs, irrigation, citrus, fertilizer, seeds,<br />

and pesticides); water and sewage treatment; energy (especially<br />

wind and solar technology); food production (coffee, juice, and<br />

alcohol); real estate (offices, factories, and hotel management);<br />

chemicals (for local industry and agriculture); and pharmaceuticals<br />

(for both the local market and potential export to Latin<br />

America and the Caribbean).<br />

“I think Israeli know-how can contribute greatly to Cuba’s<br />

agricultural sector with industrialization—giving farmers better<br />

yields than they have today—and also in food production, implementing<br />

modern, innovative technology,” he said. “Those two<br />

points alone will reduce Cuba’s dependency on imports.”<br />

Hayon, who spent 15 years in the Dominican Republic<br />

where he ran factories and other business ventures, said that since<br />

Obama’s 2015 visit to Cuba, potential Israeli investors have been<br />

peppering him about opportunities there.<br />

“For several years, we were expecting things would improve<br />

in Cuba, and we realized this is the right moment,” he said. “Unfortunately<br />

it came at the same time Trump changed the rules of<br />

the game a bit, but that has nothing to do with us. Cuba is not an<br />

enemy of Israel.”<br />

Nonetheless, the Jewish state still doesn’t have an embassy<br />

in Havana, and with no sign of Washington’s 55-year-old trade<br />

embargo ending anytime soon, the last thing Hayon needs on<br />

his delegation is headaches. For this reason, he said, “I’m telling<br />

people, ‘If you carry a U.S. passport or work for an American<br />

company, don’t come.’” H<br />

56 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017


Cuba<br />

and the<br />

International<br />

Lending<br />

Agencies<br />

Cuba’s ascension to the<br />

international banking<br />

stage – needed for large<br />

infrastructure projects –<br />

seems inevitable.<br />

But when?<br />

By Richard E. Feinberg<br />

Failing to generate much in the way of merchandise<br />

exports, Cuba is chronically short of hard currency. The<br />

island economy must import everything from poultry and<br />

rice to gasoline, automobiles, and train engines – and there is<br />

never enough cash to go around.<br />

Meanwhile, the inherited capital stock deteriorates: houses<br />

crumble, tractors sit idle for lack of spare parts, aging sewage<br />

pipes and power lines leak water and electricity.<br />

Standing on the sidelines, waiting to provide badly needed<br />

relief, are the international financial institutions (IFIs). The<br />

International Monetary Fund (IMF), the World Bank Group, the<br />

Inter-American Development Bank (IDB), and two sub-regional<br />

banks – the Andean Development Corporation (CAF), and the<br />

Central American Bank for Economic Integration (CABEI)<br />

– routinely assist member countries struggling under foreign<br />

exchange constraints. Cuba was a charter member of the IMF and<br />

World Bank, but in the wake of the 1959 Revolution and conflicts<br />

with the United States, Cuba withdrew from both entities.<br />

The good news is that Cuba officially became a member of<br />

CABEI in August. The challenge going forward: Approving and<br />

executing a pipeline of development projects, enough to begin to<br />

address Cuba’s profound economic crisis, and to establish solid<br />

precedents for other international financial institutions to follow.<br />

Mired in a prolonged stagnation, it is hard to see how the<br />

Cuban economy can gain momentum without such multilateral<br />

financial assistance. Cuba’s poor country credit rating deters<br />

private lenders. With the disappearance of the Soviet Union, the<br />

collapse of the Venezuelan economy, and the apparent hesitancy<br />

of China and Russia to close financial gaps, Cuba has run out of<br />

open spigots of easy money.<br />

Another selling point for these five multilateral financial<br />

agencies is the valuable technical assistance – expert advice, indepth<br />

studies, and technical training – provided to their mem-<br />

bers. Over the years, some Cuban economists and business executives<br />

have received overseas training and experience; however,<br />

most have fallen behind global trends in corporate organization,<br />

technological innovation, and international market transactions.<br />

Embedded in IFI lending programs are knowledge in each of<br />

these critical spheres of economic development.<br />

Let’s take a closer look at the key functions of the five IFIs,<br />

their history with Cuba, and what it will take for Cuba to become<br />

a member in good standing.<br />

The International Monetary Fund<br />

With nearly one trillion dollars in available resources, the IMF’s core<br />

responsibility is to ensure the stability of the international monetary<br />

system. With 189 member nations, the IMF fulfills its missions in<br />

three ways: Country surveillance, lending to countries with balance<br />

of payments difficulties, and giving practical help including technical<br />

training to strengthen institutional capacities and skills.<br />

The most controversial of these functions is surveillance.<br />

Each year IMF staff engage in intense discussions with senior<br />

officials of member governments. These consultations – really<br />

negotiations – delve into sensitive policy matters, including<br />

exchange rates and monetary, fiscal, and regulatory policies. The<br />

agenda may also include longer-term reforms, ranging from<br />

social safety nets and pensions to agricultural pricing and labor<br />

market policies (the hiring and firing of workers).<br />

Based on the staff evaluations, the IMF provides medium-term<br />

loans to countries experiencing balance of payments<br />

problems. According to the Fund, “This financial assistance<br />

enables countries to rebuild their international reserves, stabilize<br />

their currencies, continue paying for imports, and restore conditions<br />

for strong economic growth….” Does this not sound like a<br />

good prescription for Cuba’s headaches?


There is also nothing to compel IMF member states to borrow<br />

nor to accept IMF advice and technical assistance. Countries<br />

that are not borrowing IMF funds can ignore staff advice. But<br />

members in good standing are expected to undergo periodic<br />

consultations, and to share internal data with IMF staff. That is<br />

the rub for Cuba – that IMF staff evaluations are available to its<br />

24-member executive board, which includes the United States.<br />

Nonetheless, Cuba was an original member of the IMF but<br />

withdrew in 1964 and repaid their one outstanding loan. Thus,<br />

there are no outstanding legal claims between the IMF and<br />

Cuba. The slate is clean and the contentiousness of the 1960s<br />

need not present an obstacle when Cuba seeks readmission.<br />

The World Bank<br />

With over 10,000 employees, the World Bank is especially well<br />

equipped to help alleviate the most pressing needs of the ailing<br />

Cuban economy. In 2016 alone the Bank’s worldwide lending<br />

commitments totaled $46 billion, supporting investments in<br />

such diverse areas as agriculture, infrastructure, private sector<br />

development, health, and education. In addition to financing<br />

projects, the Bank can provide quick-disbursing balance of payments<br />

monies (“development policy financing”) to help finance<br />

ambitious policy reform programs such as diversifying exports,<br />

improving the private sector investment climate, or reforming<br />

the state sector.<br />

Such programs also assess prospective impacts on the natural<br />

environment and on income distribution, and come with detailed<br />

monitoring and evaluation. In general, Bank financing requires<br />

that the borrowing nation be in good standing with the IMF.<br />

As with the IMF, Cuba was an original member of the<br />

World Bank but never borrowed from it. Fidel Castro rejected<br />

the World Bank early on in the Revolution, withdrawing Cuba’s<br />

membership in 1960. The Bank returned Cuba’s capital subscription,<br />

clearing all accounts. Membership in the World Bank would<br />

be contingent upon Cuba joining the IMF.<br />

The Inter-American Development Bank<br />

In 1959, the IDB was founded in response to Brazilian interest in<br />

focusing on inter-American cooperation for economic progress,<br />

and, from the U.S. perspective, to prevent “another Cuba.” Cuba<br />

never joined. There is a common misperception that Cuba’s<br />

non-participation in the Organization of American States (OAS)<br />

is an obstacle to IDB membership. In fact, Cuba has always<br />

remained a member of the OAS – the requirement for IDB<br />

membership – even though it has been denied a seat at the table.<br />

In the early 1960s, the OAS responded to the Cuban Revolution<br />

by revoking the country’s right to vote. In 2009 the OAS<br />

established a procedure for reinstating Cuban participation, but<br />

Cuba has chosen not to engage.<br />

Like the World Bank, the IDB both provides general balance<br />

of payments as well as project financing. While it is the largest<br />

shareholder, the U.S. does not exercise a formal veto power over<br />

most IDB loans or membership decisions. Rather, Latin American<br />

and Caribbean nations control the majority of voting shares.<br />

Where the resources await: World Bank Group headquarters<br />

The Sub-Regional Banks: CAF and CABEI<br />

Both CAF and CABEI provide members with financing for a<br />

wide assortment of development projects. The Latin American and<br />

Caribbean members control both banks. The U.S. is not a member<br />

of either entity, although both borrow on U.S. capital markets.<br />

In February 2017, then-CAF President Enrique Garcia announced<br />

in Havana that the Caracas-based CAF would provide<br />

technical assistance to the University of Havana, and help design<br />

a new Center of Innovation and Entrepreneurship. CAF may<br />

also support the training of Cuban business executives at Latin<br />

American business schools. As mentioned earlier, Cuba has just<br />

joined Tegucigalpa-based CABEI.<br />

The Path Ahead<br />

Marriages between the international financial institutions and<br />

Cuba would seem desirable and inevitable, and in the interests<br />

of all parties. The IFIs offer the products, money and ideas that<br />

Cuba so obviously needs to break out of its prolonged economic<br />

stagnation and accelerate sustainable development.<br />

But first, the Cuban government must initiate the membership<br />

application process at each IFI. So far, Cuba has felt<br />

more comfortable approaching the Latin American-dominated,<br />

sub-regional banks. Cuba has tread more cautiously with the<br />

leading IFIs (IMF, World Bank, IDB).<br />

Why? Probably the number one reason for Cuban reticence is<br />

IFI transparency requirements. The hermetic Cuban government<br />

shares information only very selectively. State-owned enterprises<br />

do not publish financial reports. The government has not released<br />

detailed data on its international capital accounts in years.<br />

Cuban authorities, so insistent upon national sovereignty<br />

and state autonomy, are not accustomed to having personnel from<br />

multilateral organizations combing over their internal accounts,<br />

no less offering advice on a broad range of delicate issues.<br />

Then there is ideological reluctance. Fidel Castro regularly<br />

railed against exploitative global capitalism, allegedly embodied in<br />

the IMF and World Bank. Any Cuban leadership will have some<br />

public explaining to do were it to invite in these two leading IFIs.<br />

Furthermore, many Cuban officials worry that IFI-advocated market-oriented<br />

economic reforms could weaken their political power.<br />

In addition, the Cuban government fears U.S. influence in<br />

the IMF and World Bank. Most immediately, various pieces of<br />

U.S. legislation, including the Helms-Burton Act, require that<br />

U.S. representatives oppose Cuban membership in the IFIs. The<br />

U.S. voting share in the IMF and World Bank executive boards<br />

More financing needed: Laying new drainage pipes in Havana<br />

is only 17 percent, well short of a veto power over membership<br />

decisions, which require only a majority vote. Nevertheless, the<br />

IFIs look to the U.S. for financial support, through Congressional<br />

appropriations and capital market borrowings. Hence, IFI executive<br />

boards are generally reluctant to irritate Washington.<br />

One path open to Cuba would be to first pursue its relations<br />

with the CAF and CABEI with greater vigor, where U.S. influence<br />

is less significant, and then turn to the IDB, where Latin<br />

American members predominate. In the end, however, it’s the<br />

IMF and World Bank where the lion’s share of resources awaits.<br />

Perhaps the new government that takes power in Havana<br />

next February will decide that it wants to accelerate domestic economic<br />

reform, and execute market-oriented changes. In that case,<br />

the political environment in the United States might turn more<br />

sympathetic toward Cuba – and toward Cuban accession to the<br />

international financial institutions, whose purposes would dovetail<br />

so beautifully with evident Cuban aspirations and needs. H<br />

Richard E. Feinberg is professor at UC San Diego, a non-resident<br />

senior fellow at the Brookings Institution, and author of Open for<br />

Business: Building the New Cuban Economy (2016). He has worked<br />

at the U.S. Treasury and Department of State, as well as for the<br />

National Security Council.<br />

60 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />

CUBATRADE<br />

61


A Bridge to Cuba<br />

The Tampa Bay cities of St. Petersburg<br />

and Tampa continue to pursue ties<br />

with Cuba, despite push back from<br />

the federal administration<br />

by Julienne Gage<br />

The Sunshine Skyway Bridge that crosses the entrance to Tampa Bay, home to the cities of St. Petersburg and Tampa<br />

A<br />

little over a year ago, under a national umbrella of rapprochement,<br />

Tampa Bay civic and business leaders were<br />

working tirelessly to reestablish centuries-old business and<br />

cultural ties with Cuba. Since then U.S.-Cuba relations have soured<br />

under the Trump administration, but Tampa’s leaders are still working<br />

to secure – and even build upon – the progress they made.<br />

Over the past two years, Tampa International Airport began<br />

offering daily commercial Cuba-bound flights and the Port of<br />

Tampa started sending cruise ships to the island. The University<br />

of Tampa and Stetson University’s College of Law sent students<br />

down. St. Petersburg’s Salvador Dalí Museum hosted a leccture<br />

by Ana Cristina Perera, director of the Museo National de Bellas<br />

Artes, and The Dali Museum’s director, Hank Hine, joined a<br />

2015 delegation to Cuba with St. Petersburg Mayor Rick Kriseman.<br />

Local marine scientists stepped up research and collaboration<br />

with their Cuban counterparts, and St. Petersburg even<br />

proposed having a Cuban consulate. Looking ahead, the Straz<br />

Center for the Performing Arts secured a deal to host the Ballet<br />

Nacional de Cuba for a one-night-only performance of Giselle.<br />

With new restrictions put in place by the administration in<br />

November, the coming year will put Tampa Bay’s Cuba commitment<br />

to the test.<br />

Yes, under the new rules, Cuba-bound flights and cruises can<br />

still leave Tampa Bay, and non-Cuban U.S. citizens are still allowed<br />

to visit the island if they travel in tour groups or are involved in<br />

activities such as research or humanitarian support. But the recent<br />

restrictions will have serious impacts. For example, the new regulations<br />

specify that U.S. citizens and companies cannot engage in<br />

transactions with any Cuban entity run by the country’s military.<br />

Among those entities is Cuba’s recently refurbished Port of Mariel,<br />

which the Port of Tampa had plans to work with as a partner.<br />

The proposal to open a Cuban consulate in St. Pete is on


132<br />

YEARS OF<br />

HISTORIC<br />

CULTURE<br />

Expanding Sealinks: Travelers from Tampa can now take multiple cruises to Cuba<br />

hold in the wake of the State Department expelling 15 officials<br />

from the Cuban Embassy in Washington, a response to the unexplained<br />

“attacks” on U.S. diplomats in Havana. The State Department<br />

also issued a travel warning and withdrew most of its<br />

Havana embassy staff in the lead-up to the diplomatic expulsion.<br />

The reduced embassy staff in Havana suspended visa processing<br />

for Cubans to travel to the U.S.<br />

In spite of these setbacks, the city commissions of both<br />

Tampa and St. Petersburg recently decided not to turn their back<br />

on Cuba. Rather than cancel an official October delegation to<br />

the island, they voted to go anyway, provided that participants<br />

paid their way with private funds.<br />

“We have a lot of work at stake and progress that we have<br />

made in shared future interests in topics like healthcare research,<br />

marine science, climate change, and sea level rise, so it’s important<br />

that we continue to cooperate and work together,” said St.<br />

Petersburg City Councilwoman Darden Rice.<br />

“Mainly it was to keep the relationship that Tampa’s had –<br />

the history – just to let them know we’re interested. We have a<br />

port that can handle whatever comes through them. If and when<br />

that day comes, we’re ready,” said Tampa City Council Chairwoman<br />

Yvonne Yolie Capín, noting that the mission was the first<br />

official Tampa City Council trip to Cuba since 1960.<br />

Tampa to Cuba Travel<br />

Tampa Bay has handled a large number of trips to Cuba for<br />

several years already. In 2011, Tampa International Airport began<br />

offering weekly direct charter flights to Cuba. Those weekly<br />

charters soon turned into daily service. Then in 2016, Southwest<br />

Airlines started flying direct from Tampa to Havana, Santa Clara<br />

and Varadero, though it recently stopped serving the latter two<br />

destinations.<br />

Meanwhile cruise lines, which started leaving the Port of<br />

Tampa for Cuba in the spring of 2017, continue to add new<br />

voyages. “Cruise business to Cuba only continues to grow at<br />

Port Tampa Bay. Both Royal Caribbean and Carnival Cruise<br />

Line call from Port Tampa Bay,” said Port of Tampa Director of<br />

Public Relations Samara Sodos. “Carnival Cruise Line just added<br />

five additional Havana cruises to their itinerary,” voyages that will<br />

come through the company’s Holland America Line brand.<br />

It’s difficult to tell exactly how many jobs have already been<br />

added thanks to Tampa-Cuba travel, but Patrick Manteiga,<br />

publisher of Tampa Bay’s La Gaceta newspaper and a participant<br />

in the October delegation, says thousands of Tampa Bay residents<br />

have benefitted.<br />

“It’s a huge deal,” he said. Travelers who transit through<br />

Tampa Bay not only spend money at the port and airport but<br />

also at area hotels, restaurants, museums, and shops on their way<br />

to and from Cuba. He estimated the region could have added as<br />

many as 6,000 new jobs had the Trump administration not rolled<br />

back the Obama-era opening.<br />

“I don’t know one thing the federal government could add<br />

that would overnight create that kind of work in Tampa,” he said.<br />

Capturing Cuba-Bound Travelers<br />

St. Petersburg business leaders want to show Cuba-bound travelers<br />

their city’s charms. Thanks to its quaint historic neighborhoods,<br />

picturesque waterfront, laid back lifestyle, and reasonable<br />

cost of living, the once sleepy city is having an economic and<br />

cultural renaissance, and community leaders believe engaging<br />

Cuba would make it even more compelling.<br />

“Any added visitor growth through Tampa airport or<br />

through the ports is going to flow towards St. Pete,” said Olga<br />

Bof, president of the small business association Keep St. Pete<br />

Local. “It’s to our benefit to help grow these links, to help grow<br />

these relationships.”<br />

In April, Bof, a Cuban-American who was born on the island<br />

and immigrated to Miami as an infant, rallied small business<br />

support for the consulate by organizing a "Cuban Pete" night.<br />

The event included a pig roast at the Cuban-inspired Bodega<br />

restaurant on St. Pete’s recently renovated Central Avenue. The<br />

festivities then moved on to a paella party at the Cuban restaurant<br />

Pipo’s, and partygoers ended the evening with spirits from<br />

the local Flying Boat Brewing Co. and Kozuba & Sons Distillery.<br />

In historic Ybor City, Tampa Bay’s Cuban roots run deep.<br />

Savor a hand-rolled Cuban-style puro made the same<br />

way for 130 years. Pass through the gates of the<br />

international park dedicated to José Martí, apostle of<br />

Cuban freedom. All before you hop on a flight or cruise<br />

to explore Cuba yourself. Treasure awaits.<br />

Countless ideas. Endless fun.<br />

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64 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017


TURTLES WITHOUT BORDERS<br />

Saving the sea turtle has become a U.S.-Cuba<br />

scientific partnership<br />

Long-finned mermaids may be maritime culture’s most celebrated ladies,<br />

but short-legged sea turtle moms probably should be. Every year, they swim<br />

thousands of miles, drag themselves onto beaches in Mexico, Cuba, and<br />

Florida, laboriously dig holes in the sand, then squeeze dozens of eggs from<br />

their bodies.<br />

“They’re a really key part of the ecosystems we’re interested in,” said<br />

Margo McKnight, senior vice president of conservation, research, and<br />

husbandry at The Florida Aquarium in Tampa. “They’re long-lived animals,<br />

they’re large-bodied animals, and they nest on beaches – historically in<br />

great numbers – which means they impact the ecosystems in a lot of positive<br />

ways.” These include consuming jellyfish, trimming back sea grass, and<br />

controlling sponge growth.<br />

McKnight and other ocean conservationists are hopeful these endangered<br />

creatures may have a positive impact on U.S.-Cuba relations. After all,<br />

turtles follow their instincts, not national borders. “They just use ancient<br />

pathways, and [their] nesting beaches are important to them regardless of<br />

what humans decide on land,” she said.<br />

Scientists at the Florida Aquarium first began engaging with their Cuban<br />

counterparts in 2014, just prior to the Obama administration’s opening.<br />

Even then, the U.S. embargo allowed for joint scientific research and collaboration,<br />

and now, despite a partial rollback of Obama’s policies, the aquarium<br />

expects to keep growing its Cuba programs.<br />

Given the vital role of sea turtles in restoring marine ecosystems, scientists<br />

are keen on protecting their nesting grounds across the Caribbean<br />

and Gulf of Mexico. The Florida Aquarium is contributing by helping Cuba<br />

build a research center on Cayo Largo key off Cuba’s southwest coast. It will<br />

help foot the bill by inviting U.S. “citizen scientists” to take curated eco-tours.<br />

Run in conjunction with the nonprofit marine conservation group The<br />

Ocean Foundation, the two-week trips will operate from summer to fall for<br />

about $4,000. They will include sight seeing in Havana, followed by evening<br />

sea turtle observation in Cayo Largo, where they will stay at all-inclusive resorts.<br />

“They not only see the sea turtles and the science being done, they<br />

assist in the science, said Katie Thompson, The Ocean Foundation’s Cuba<br />

program coordinator.<br />

66 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />

Bof says small businesses tend to employ more people than<br />

large companies, and in St. Pete, the majority of businesses are<br />

locally owned. When consular restrictions ease up, she would<br />

like to encourage St. Petersburg business owners to network with<br />

Cuban entrepreneurs.<br />

“We’re a think-local but act-global organization,” she said,<br />

noting how impressed she’s been with the expansion of farmto-table<br />

culture in both Havana and St. Pete. For now, she just<br />

wants visitors to know that dining and shopping in small St. Pete<br />

establishments will help them feel even more connected to the<br />

quaint, down-home life they discover on trips to Cuba.<br />

“It doesn’t make for a smaller life. It makes for a richer life,”<br />

she said, as she sipped a traditional Cuban coffee at Bodega.<br />

That’s something even conservative businesspeople such as<br />

Stephen Reyes, a Cuban-American accountant and participant<br />

on the October city councils delegation, agree with.<br />

Reyes says the people of Cuba “will drive their own change,”<br />

not by an outside force but by supporting their already expanding<br />

entrepreneurial endeavors. He also said the delegation<br />

allowed him to see how foreign travel has helped diversify Cuba’s<br />

small-business economy with everything from wedding pastries<br />

to cell phone repair services.<br />

“These are all spillovers of the economic prosperity from the<br />

tourism boom,” he said.<br />

Scientific Cooperation in the Gulf Stream<br />

Sea turtles, sharks, and other creatures pay no attention to the<br />

geopolitical climate as they travel between the U.S. and Cuba.<br />

But their survival depends on political decisions in both countries,<br />

as bilateral scientific exchanges continue to be important.<br />

Tampa’s Florida Aquarium is working on several scientific<br />

initiatives with Cuban marine biologists. Earlier this year, Florida<br />

Aquarium scientists traveled to Cuba’s western coast to assist<br />

Cuban scientists with the construction of a coral reef nursery.<br />

The Tampa team provided the structures – 15-foot plastic pipes<br />

that were anchored into the sea floor – and helped install them.<br />

Cuban scientists hope to bring some of the resulting coral trees<br />

to the Florida Aquarium for an exhibit in 2019.<br />

Margo McKnight, vice president of biological operations at<br />

the Florida Aquarium, says she’s concerned about the new regulations<br />

but confident her team will continue to collaborate with<br />

Cuba, provided it stays current on all rules and regulations. She’s<br />

grateful the Obama administration previously raised the profile<br />

of joint conservation projects.<br />

“We’re just trying to give ourselves as much time as possible to<br />

have all of our T’s crossed and our I’s dotted to make sure that we<br />

do great work and it’s not hindered by the new changes,” she said.<br />

“Anecdotally it seems like people are interested and excited about<br />

our work in Cuba. People love to hear the stories and there’s people<br />

who want to go and are interested in helping us in the field.”<br />

Interested parties may soon have that chance. The aquarium<br />

is helping Cuba set up a sea turtle research center in the<br />

same area it built the nursery. In 2018, it plans to offer “citizen<br />

scientist” educational trips in which ordinary U.S. citizens can<br />

legally travel to Cuba to study sea turtle hatching and migration<br />

between the two countries. (See sidebar)<br />

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American doctor-in-training, Graham Sowa, third from left, obtained his<br />

medical degree at Havana’s Latin American School of Medicine.<br />

MEDICINE... CUBAN STYLE<br />

A Tampa doctor-in-training aims to improve<br />

medical efficiency with Cuba-style care<br />

These days, it’s common for doctors to spend more time staring at a<br />

computer screen than talking face-to-face with their patients. But one Tampa<br />

Bay doctor-in-residency says Cuba taught him the value of doing it the<br />

old-fashioned way.<br />

Graham Sowa recently moved to Tampa after six years of study at Havana’s<br />

Latin American School of Medicine (ELAM). He says what Cuba lacks<br />

in supplies it makes up for in talent and ingenuity. He also says the skills he<br />

picked up there could benefit Tampa’s own medical approach.<br />

As a resident of the Brandon Regional Hospital System, Sowa rotates<br />

between hospital wards, out-patient facilities, suburban doctor offices, and<br />

free or low-cost clinics for patients who can’t afford care after hospitalization.<br />

“By being better stewards of those resources, I would hope that our<br />

institutions decide they can serve more people,” said Sowa in an interview<br />

with Cuba Trade. The Texas native knew when he enrolled in ELAM that he<br />

wanted to serve the public as a general practitioner – aka a primary-care<br />

physician – an area of U.S. medicine losing MDs to more lucrative specialties.<br />

A 2016 study by the Association of American Medical Colleges projected a<br />

shortage of as many as 35,600 primary care physicians by 2025.<br />

Thanks to a bilateral agreement between the U.S. and Cuba, several hundred<br />

American doctors are already working to bridge that gap after obtaining<br />

free medical training in Cuba. Graduates must conduct most of their residency<br />

as primary physicians in the nation’s neediest clinics and hospitals.<br />

Sowa says he is coming to understand American medicine in a whole<br />

new way, especially the tendency to rely on high-tech testing rather than<br />

basic care. Trouble shooting with fewer resources, he says, often translates<br />

to increased doctor-patient communication.<br />

“I think I have a higher threshold of tolerance for ordering tests off of<br />

one lab value than some of my colleagues, who really do a lot of decision<br />

making based off what they’re seeing on a computer screen,” he said.<br />

“[His approach] works well at the free clinic because you don’t have<br />

the luxury of ordering every test. You really have to know your basics,” said<br />

Dr. Yvonne Braver, who supervises Sowa as head of the Brandon Regional<br />

Hospital’s Internal Medicine in Training Program. Based on what she’s<br />

learned from Sowa, she calls the Cuban approach, “cost efficient, smart,<br />

kind, and everything medicine should be about.”<br />

68 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />

Bolstering Tampa Bay’s Medical Field<br />

The October delegation didn’t visit Cuba to pen any business<br />

contracts, only to discuss ideas for the future. But Cuban officials<br />

were keen on discussing potential pharmaceutical deals with the<br />

United States, especially for products such as CIMAvax, Cuba’s<br />

vaunted lung cancer vaccine.<br />

Tal Land, managing director at Talbot & Associates Healthcare<br />

Consulting in Tampa, was on the October delegation. He<br />

says large U.S. pharmaceutical companies are certainly interested,<br />

but negotiations are tentative – something their Cuban counterparts<br />

understand. “There was a real desire for normalization, but<br />

also a realistic attitude that it may be a while,” he said.<br />

Meanwhile in Tampa, Cuba has already provided medical<br />

knowledge to the healthcare community. U.S. doctor-in-training<br />

Graham Sowa recently graduated from Cuba’s Latin American<br />

School of Medicine (ELAM) and moved to Tampa to work in<br />

the Brandon Regional Hospital system.<br />

Thanks to a joint U.S.-Cuba medical education agreement,<br />

he did the entire seven-year program free of charge, provided he<br />

return to the U.S. and dedicate part of his two-year residency to<br />

serving underserved communities. As part of his residency, he<br />

works at the Brandon Outreach Clinic which offers free or lowcost<br />

care to some of the area’s poorest residents. And while many<br />

doctors specialize to increase their potential earnings in order to<br />

pay back medical school loans, Sowa says he’s in a good position<br />

to work as a general practitioner.<br />

Mayor Rick Kriseman says he’s glad to hear about the program,<br />

especially with the cost of healthcare skyrocketing.<br />

“He can teach our folks something about what he learned –<br />

how to look at things differently and find solutions they might<br />

not otherwise have thought of,” Kriseman said (see sidebar).<br />

Bringing Cuba to Tampa Bay<br />

St. Petersburg Mayor Rick<br />

Kriseman holds a photo of La<br />

Giraldilla, a historic piece of<br />

Havana architecture<br />

In the current diplomatic scenario, it’s far easier to get Americans<br />

to Cuba than it is to get Cubans to America. The Cuban diplomat<br />

expulsions have slowed, but not halted, visa processing for<br />

U.S. visitors. On the other side of the Straits of Florida, however,<br />

the U.S. Embassy in Havana has stopped processing visas for<br />

Cubans, advising them instead to apply at the U.S. Embassy in<br />

Colombia. That’s a tall order for Cubans who already have to pay<br />

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The Winning Team: International fellowship<br />

RACING TOWARD CUBA<br />

The return of the St. Pete-Havana regatta<br />

In 1930, a group of St. Petersburg yachters looked at a map of the<br />

Caribbean and decided the distance between their harbor and Havana<br />

was perfect for a middle-distance race. That year, they began<br />

a regatta tradition that would last just under three decades.<br />

“It’s not a long race but there can be some [turbulent] weather,”<br />

said St. Pete yachter Richard Winning. Politically speaking,<br />

that’s what Winning’s father discovered as the commodore of the<br />

1959 regatta, officiating the event just after the triumph of Fidel Castro’s<br />

revolution — and just prior to a five-decade freeze in U.S.-Cuba<br />

relations.<br />

In late February, Winning finally had the opportunity to pick up<br />

where his father left off, coordinating and then serving as commodore<br />

of a 2017 St. Pete-Habana Regatta. “It was a fabulous feeling to<br />

bring it back again,” said Winning. “We just want to go down and<br />

sail and be in fellowship with the two nations.”<br />

Sporting events such as this fall under the 12 approved categories<br />

of U.S. travel to Cuba, which existed before the Obama administration<br />

began easing restrictions for people-to-people engagement.<br />

However, the détente unleashed a rise in the number of Americans<br />

planning trips there, and Winning wanted to ride that wave.<br />

This year’s regatta consisted of 80 boats carrying 700 sailors.<br />

Among them were two boats of wounded warriors, a blind sailor,<br />

and a crew of Cubans who received bilateral approval to sail up to<br />

St. Pete and race home.<br />

In the old days, the regatta sailed straight into Havana Harbor,<br />

but this year participants sailed to nearby Marina Hemmingway. Winning<br />

says one of the highlights was meeting his Cuban counterpart,<br />

Commodore Jose Miguel Diaz Escrich, both of whom shared childhood<br />

memories of the crowds watching the race from their respective<br />

shores.<br />

“Back in the day, it was a huge promotional piece for the area<br />

because people traveled frequently from here to Cuba for weekend<br />

trips,” said Winning. “The race still promotes St. Petersburg and<br />

gets our name out there.”<br />

up to $160 in non-refundable visa fees, regardless of whether their<br />

application is accepted.<br />

This could mean that some Cuban artists hoping to travel<br />

to Tampa or St. Petersburg will have to wait – though The Straz<br />

Center for the Performing Arts in Tampa recently managed to<br />

wrangle visas for one of Cuba’s most important performance<br />

troupes: The Ballet Nacional de Cuba, which is still under the<br />

direction of legendary Cuban prima ballerina Alicia Alonso.<br />

The May 23 performance will be one of just five U.S. engagements<br />

for their 2018 Giselle tour. The ballet troupe will also<br />

perform at Washington, D.C.’s Kennedy Center and Chicago’s<br />

Auditorium Theater. Calling the event a “cultural victory” for<br />

Tampa Bay’s performing arts aficionados, Straz Center President<br />

and CEO Judith Lisi said the visit took three years of detailed<br />

coordinating. She credited the center’s namesake, David A. Straz,<br />

for pulling it all together.<br />

“I think it’s really inspirational to see what’s happening in the<br />

arts in Cuba,” Lisi told Cuba Trade. “We have so many Cubans<br />

here who still have family members there. They might be saddened<br />

by the politics but they still love the people and they’re proud of<br />

the people.”<br />

Straz, a longtime supporter of Tampa’s Cuba engagement<br />

effort, was also a participant on the October city commission<br />

delegation. “As someone who is devoted to the arts and supports<br />

artistic excellence for Tampa – and as someone fond of Cuban culture<br />

– facilitating the performance of the Ballet Nacional de Cuba<br />

is a dream come true,” he told the Straz Center.<br />

Keeping the Faith<br />

The vision for deeper engagement with Cuba inspired Vicente<br />

Amor, a former pastor in Cuba, to immigrate to Tampa to work in<br />

the travel industry. Today he is the vice president of ASC Travel,<br />

and spends much of his time coordinating high-profile delegations<br />

to Cuba, including the one from Tampa Bay in October. “Tampa<br />

has extraordinary potential and that makes me proud to be there,”<br />

he said.<br />

Amor says the introduction of commercial flights and cruises<br />

to Cuba, combined with the openings of the past administration,<br />

has emboldened Tampa Bay residents – many of them Cuban – to<br />

set aside fears of backlash from Cuban hardliners in Miami. Going<br />

a step further, he believes the region could be instrumental in<br />

changing Florida’s political attitude toward Cuba.<br />

Miami’s Cuban exile community “was very influential 40 or<br />

50 years ago,” Amor said. “Now American society and American<br />

politicians understand that their force no longer amounts to much.<br />

I believe Tampa has the potential to raise a voice that says, ‘We’ll<br />

engage with Cuba in a civilized manner with the country that Cuba<br />

is, not with the country we would like it to be,’” said Amor.<br />

Back at St. Petersburg City Hall, Mayor Kriseman hopes<br />

more Tampa Bay residents will come to that same conclusion, and<br />

he thinks a flight or a cruise to the island will help them.<br />

“Go because you want to experience the culture and the arts.<br />

Go because you want to experience the people and the community<br />

and the richness of the cities,” he said. “I think the more we travel<br />

there and build relationships, the more pressure gets put on both<br />

governments to find ways of working together, and that’s ultimately<br />

what we want to see happen.” H<br />

70 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017


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solutions. Please call us at 305-<br />

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LOCATIONS:<br />

• MIAMI: 2994 NW 7th St. 33125<br />

• HIALEAH: 2900 W. 12 Ave. # 24 Hialeah<br />

33012<br />

• WESTCHESTER: 3721 SW 87 Ave. Miami<br />

33165<br />

You can reserve ONLINE at<br />

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1.305.649.3491<br />

DISCOVER<br />

the beautiful island of Cuba<br />

We have a great variety of options<br />

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• HIALEAH GARDENS: 2794 West 68 th St.<br />

Hialeah Gardens 33016<br />

• W. PALM BEACH: 5904 Dixie Hwy, West<br />

Palm Beach 33405<br />

• SOUTH DADE: 11460 Quail Roast Dr. Cutler<br />

Ridge 33157<br />

• KENDALL: 13792 SW 152nd St. Kendall<br />

33177<br />

• TAMPA: 4801 Hillsborough Ave. # 405,<br />

Tampa 33614<br />

• ORLANDO: 948 Semoran Blvd. 32807<br />

74 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />

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NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 CUBATRADE<br />

75


REPORTERS NOTEBOOK<br />

SCENES OF REGLA<br />

Top: The Russian Orthodox Cathedral as seen from a ferry that<br />

shuttles locals to Casablanca and Regla.<br />

Bottom left: A doll representing the Virgin of Regla or Yemaya<br />

in Santería.<br />

Bottom center: Children play on the streets of Regla.<br />

Bottom right: A Regla resident enjoys the view from a balcony.<br />

The Havana on the other side of the Harbor<br />

Regla and Casablanca have charms that might<br />

get lost after Havana Harbor is refurbished<br />

Words and photos by Julienne Gage<br />

There are many corners of the old colonial world where<br />

a sunset can invoke awe as it bounces off a glistening<br />

body of water and illuminates a historic skyline from<br />

every angle. But not all of them are as safe and as easy to access<br />

as the other side of the Havana Harbor. For those who want to<br />

see Cuba “before it changes,” now’s the time because the Cuban<br />

government has a massive plan to turn the harbor into a highend<br />

commercial district for yachting and tourism.<br />

Over the past two years, I’ve made several short expeditions<br />

across the harbor learning about Afro-Cuban culture in the village<br />

of Regla and small-scale tourism in the neighboring village<br />

of Casablanca.<br />

I first crossed the harbor in March of 2016 with Aimee Ortiz,<br />

a Miami-based Cuban émigré and fellow anthropologist who<br />

explained that Regla’s deep African roots make it a popular place<br />

for Santería. The term refers to a set of spiritual practices derived<br />

from West Africa’s Yoruba culture, and they are closely related to<br />

Haitian Vodou and Brazilian Candomblé.<br />

In fact, the centerpiece of this colonial village, which can be<br />

accessed by a 15-minute ferry ride, is a small chapel where a black<br />

Virgin has spent centuries watching over ships – especially ones<br />

arriving with slaves.<br />

“Don’t look,” warned Aimee, as we stepped off the ferry and<br />

spotted several santeras clothed in white cotton headscarves and<br />

peasant dresses with multicolored beads draped around their<br />

necks. It was hard not to. In a park outside the shrine to the<br />

Virgin of Regla, they laid out a tantalizing array of dolls, conch<br />

shells, and fortune-telling cards. As soon as their eyes met ours,<br />

they were reading our hearts and minds with alarming precision,<br />

then smacking us with long-stemmed white flowers – an act they<br />

swore would cleanse bad juju.<br />

“There! Now go throw these nasty dead flowers in that dumpster!”<br />

commanded one of the santeras. Awkwardly, but obediently,<br />

I walked to the dumpster, contemplating how much American<br />

pop culture promotes meditation and yoga retreats, while labeling<br />

Caribbean religions “superstitious.” Suddenly I found myself slam<br />

dunking those tattered flowers into the dumpster, and down with<br />

them my recent life stresses. The ladies hung a string of golden<br />

beads around our necks and we paid a $40 USD fee.<br />

76 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017


SCENES OF CASABLANCA<br />

Left: Havana Harbor as seen from Casablanca.<br />

Center, left: Locals stroll through the streets of Casablanca.<br />

Center, right: A mechanic leans against a vintage car.<br />

Right: Jo Bruns hugs his wife, Yiyi.<br />

The money was worth it. Temporarily released from the<br />

problems of this world, we practically floated down Regla’s pastel-painted<br />

colonial streets, taking photos of children playing tag<br />

and riding bikes, and old men playing dominoes.<br />

Regla is just the place to get back to the basics. Void of the<br />

touristy paladares common in Old Havana, you’ll be hard-pressed<br />

to find mojitos, daiquiris, and giant plates of ropa vieja (shredded<br />

beef ). More prevalent are living room storefronts selling fried<br />

cinnamon strips, donuts, and mantecas, Cuba’s version of shortbread<br />

cookies – comfort foods that made life sweeter as Cuba<br />

recovered from economic collapse in the 1990s.<br />

After a visit to local artist César Leal’s art school and gallery,<br />

we walked back to the ferry, our golden beads sparkling in the<br />

sun. Locals smiled as they proclaimed “Ochún,” the Santería<br />

goddess of love that the beads represent. On the ride home, the<br />

late afternoon sun illuminated the golden domes of Old Havana’s<br />

Russian Orthodox Church.<br />

In October 2017, I had another chance to cross the harbor,<br />

this time for Cuba Trade. The rickety old ferry terminal on the<br />

Havana side had been replaced with a modern, two-story glass<br />

structure, marking the first step in the harbor enhancement<br />

initiative. On its decks, dozens of locals and foreigners ate ice<br />

cream, talked business, or waited for the next ferry. I chose the<br />

one bound for Casablanca.<br />

Located about a half-mile from Havana’s emblematic Morro<br />

Castle, Casablanca earned its name for a white general store<br />

that used to serve customers in the narrow flatland between its<br />

steep hill and the rocky shore. But that was a few centuries ago.<br />

Today, it’s best known as the place where Che Guevara had his<br />

government office, a science observatory, and a massive Christ<br />

statue that the wife of former Cuban President Fulgencio Batista<br />

dedicated about two weeks before the 1959 Revolution. From the<br />

seawall along the Malecón Boulevard, the statue and the observatory<br />

draw the eye’s attention, but Casablanca’s charm lies in the<br />

labyrinth of homes climbing up its steep slope.<br />

I paid one Cuban peso to board the 15-minute ferry to<br />

Casablanca as the late afternoon sun cast its golden light. I<br />

figured there’d be time to hike to the top of the hill and down by<br />

sunset. I didn’t consider the likelihood of becoming enraptured<br />

with the town’s winding colonial architecture, stunning hilltop<br />

views, and warm, inviting residents.<br />

“Where are you going?” locals asked.<br />

“Just up there,” I responded, determined to see the glistening<br />

bay laid out between the main city and this tiny town. Each<br />

pause offered another amazing view and friendly character.<br />

“In any other country there might be some trouble, but this<br />

here is a free country,” Orlando de los Rios, a staunch supporter<br />

of the Cuban Revolution told me as he repaired a horse buggy<br />

and showed off the steeds he uses to transport tourists around the<br />

castle.<br />

It might have been wise to turn back as the last strong sunbeams<br />

disappeared behind Havana and a few drops of rain turned<br />

into just a few more, but who wants to cross the bay in drenched<br />

clothes? Two young mechanics repairing an old car in a shed<br />

offered temporary shelter from the storm, and just as I was asking<br />

what they knew of neighborhood development plans, a German<br />

man walked up to check on the car’s progress. It turns out he was<br />

the one to ask.<br />

During a business trip a few years ago, Jo Bruns met a young<br />

Cuban woman from Casablanca, fell in love, and married her.<br />

They now spend part of their year in Germany and part of it in<br />

Casablanca, where they’re helping several family members renovate<br />

homes to rent to visitors.<br />

Together, they’ve invested about $250,000 in renovations,<br />

and they’re committed to seeing the community thrive. Excited<br />

by the opportunity to show visitors what they were doing, he<br />

took me on a tour of the homes.<br />

“Little by little,” Bruns said, as members of his extended<br />

family unlocked doors and opened windows to photograph the<br />

views. Bruns paused as he noticed freshly placed bed linens in a<br />

room he thought was empty.<br />

“That’s Cuba. Sometimes you don’t even know who all has<br />

been staying at your place,” he said with a chuckle. He’s hardly worried,<br />

for he knows they’re likely members of his extended family.<br />

His bigger concern is how to attract the right kind of tourists,<br />

complaining that he and his wife want to rent to families, not<br />

drunken revelers looking to pick up prostitutes.<br />

He wishes other Cubans in the community had the seed<br />

money to open paladares (private restaurants), or even a language<br />

school. He knows those businesses will become more valuable<br />

once the Cuban government starts gentrifying the harbor.<br />

For now, he’s grateful for the tranquility. We walked up the<br />

path for a soda at one of Casablanca’s few and humble venues: a<br />

thatched roof shack and a couple of wooden tables in a clearing<br />

amidst the overgrowth. His wife Yiyi then joined us for a hike up<br />

countless hillside stairs until we reached the Christ statue, as the<br />

night fell and the moon illuminated its 320 tons of white marble<br />

against an indigo sky.<br />

“Cuba is a present to me. On my first day here, I was a total<br />

capitalist,” said Bruns, as he considered how he could help bring<br />

German investment to the island without ruining the slow pace<br />

and quiet he’s come to love in Casablanca.<br />

Staring up at Jesus, it’s hard to know what neighborhood<br />

outcome to pray for, but it’s easy to feel thankful for a short<br />

expedition like this. In some other place, a single traveler might<br />

be scolded for wandering around after dark, but street crime isn't<br />

prevalent in Cuba.<br />

Illuminating the path with an iPhone, we began our descent,<br />

now accompanied by a crowd of locals gingerly climbing down<br />

the labyrinth of steps and paths back to the village, and offering<br />

me a friendly sendoff at the ferry.<br />

I climbed aboard and stuck my head out the window just as<br />

the rain began falling again. This time I allowed it to refresh body<br />

and soul while getting a better view of both sides of the harbor. H<br />

78 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017<br />

CUBATRADE<br />

79


in closing<br />

The Cuban people<br />

deserve better than the<br />

Trump administration's<br />

new regulations<br />

Emily Mendrala, Executive Director of<br />

Center for Democracy in the Americas<br />

In March 2016, Havana was electric in anticipation of<br />

President Obama’s visit, hopeful that relations between our<br />

two countries were finally on a path toward normal. Now, the<br />

Trump administration has released new, restrictive rules for<br />

engagement with Cuba — and yet, with two years of progress<br />

under our belt, it is clear a full reversal is impossible.<br />

The Cuban government dedicated significant resources<br />

in terms of manpower and infrastructure to ensure President<br />

Obama’s visit was a success, and they seemed pleased, albeit cautious,<br />

to welcome those U.S. officials willing to improve relations.<br />

The Cuban people were ecstatic, lining the streets for a<br />

glimpse of the presidential motorcade, waving American flags<br />

for a U.S. president willing to — as he said in remarks broadcast<br />

live across the country — “bury the last remnant of the Cold<br />

War in the Americas.”<br />

During the Obama administration’s two-year advancement<br />

toward normalization, our nations signed nearly two dozen<br />

agreements on issues such as law enforcement information<br />

sharing and environmental protection. Most importantly, they<br />

proved cooperation is possible and can bear fruit.<br />

I was in Havana again this June when President Trump<br />

announced he was “cancelling the last administration’s<br />

completely one-sided deal with Cuba,” appealing to a crowd<br />

in Miami’s Little Havana neighborhood who cheered the<br />

president’s rhetoric.<br />

The Cuban government response was fairly measured — an<br />

official statement “denounce(d) the new measures to tighten the<br />

blockade” as “doomed to failure,” but reiterated the country’s<br />

“willingness to continue the respectful dialogue and cooperation<br />

in areas of mutual interest.”<br />

The people of Cuba, however, were emotional. They expressed<br />

anger, at the U.S. president’s harsh words and demeanor;<br />

frustration, that the president’s remarks and policy directives<br />

were based on a false interpretation of the Cuba of today; fear,<br />

among the entrepreneurs whose livelihoods depend on U.S.-Cuba<br />

engagement; and sadness, among a populace who previously<br />

thought that the embargo, which has constrained their lives for<br />

decades, was finally nearing its end.<br />

But most profound was bitterness that they, the Cuban people,<br />

would remain pawns in the U.S. domestic political debate.<br />

Now, fulfilling the promises of President Trump’s June<br />

announcement, the administration has implemented regulatory<br />

changes to roll back U.S. engagement with Cuba. The changes<br />

will come amid a difficult bilateral context, one made all the<br />

more confusing by unexplained injuries suffered by at least 24<br />

U.S. diplomats in Havana. The U.S. government’s politicized<br />

response — expelling Cuban diplomats during an ongoing<br />

investigation and halting consular services in Havana — further<br />

muddies the waters. While U.S. officials haven't accused Cuba<br />

of causing the injuries, they have taken punitive steps that test<br />

diplomatic patience and separates families and friends across the<br />

Florida Straits.<br />

In spite of all this, formal and informal engagement continues.<br />

In September, the U.S. and Cuba held their sixth bilateral<br />

commission to discuss furthering progress in areas such as<br />

public health and safe, legal migration.<br />

U.S. businesses continue to pursue opportunities in Cuba.<br />

Days before the new regulations were published, U.S. heavy<br />

equipment companies John Deere and Caterpillar attended<br />

Havana’s annual trade fair. They announced deals to sell<br />

tractors, as well as open warehouse and distribution centers.<br />

Business ties like these are profitable and beneficial to the people<br />

of both nations; they grow jobs in both countries and, in Cuba,<br />

they provide the equipment needed to farm more efficiently and<br />

update aging infrastructure.<br />

U.S. travelers continue to flock to the island. By the end<br />

of May 2017, the number of U.S. travelers to Cuba had reached<br />

almost 285,000, surpassing the total for the entire 2016 calendar<br />

year. Today’s new travel rules still allow legal avenues for travel<br />

to Cuba.<br />

While detractors would try to thwart normalization efforts,<br />

our governments and our peoples can still choose to engage. If<br />

not, it’s the lives of the Cuban people that are most evidently<br />

altered by the ebbs and flows in Washington, and — at minimum<br />

— they deserve a U.S. policy that allows them to be the<br />

determinants of their own future. H<br />

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80 CUBATRADE NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017


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