Caribbean Beat — July/August 2017 (#146)

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NEIGHBOURHOOD istock.com/LiselotteMathiasen Santiago de Cuba On a bay sheltered by the peaks of the Sierra Maestra, Santiago — Cuba’s “second city” — is a storehouse of history and a musical epicentre, especially during Carnival in July History Founded in July 1515 by Spanish conquistador Diego de Velázquez, Santiago de Cuba — named for St James, the patron saint of Spain — was the capital of the island for most of the sixteenth century, until it was replaced by Havana. A favourite target of English and French pirates and privateers, Santiago was the first port in Cuba to receive enslaved Africans, and later on was a destination for French settlers fleeing nearby Saint-Domingue during the Haitian Revolution. The resulting social and ethnic diversity has made the city a cultural hotbed, especially for music and dance. In the twentieth century, Santiago was best known as the place where the Cuban Revolution began in 1953, with the famous attack on the Moncada Barracks — and where, on 1 January, 1959, Fidel Castro proclaimed the Revolution’s victory from the balcony of the city hall. Streetscape The heart of Santiago de Cuba is the paved Parque Céspedes — more of a plaza than a park. Around it are the cathedral, the house of Diego de Velázquez — sometimes said to be the oldest surviving residential house in the Americas — and other historic buildings. From here, the city sprawls into the Sierra Maestra foothills, with streets and alleys often ascending steeply. The city centre still contains numerous colonial-era buildings with ornate columns and balconies. To the southwest, commanding the entrance of the bay, the Castillo de San Pedro de la Roca is a seventeenth-century fort designed to protect Santiago from pirate raids. Built over a period of six decades, the Castillo is now recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the best surviving examples of Spanish military architecture in the Americas. Marc Venema/shutterstock.com 80 WWW.CARIBBEAN-BEAT.COM
Matyas Rehak/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM Stefano Ember/shutterstock.com Carnival city Santiago is famous throughout Cuba for its Carnival. Originally, there were two separate Carnivals in the city each year: a pre-Lenten festival observed mostly by the upper classes, and a second celebration around the feast of St James in July, coinciding with the end of the sugar cane and coffee harvest, and therefore popular with the largely Afro-Cuban estate labourers. The “winter” Carnival died out in the early twentieth century, while the more energetic and egalitarian “summer” Carnival thrived. Conga provides the traditional soundtrack for the festival of parades and processions, floats and dancers and bonfires. istock.com/alxpin istock.com/orukojin Co-ordinates 20º N 75.8º W Sea level CUBA Santiago de Cuba wilfred dederer A touch of Egypt Bacardi rum is no longer made in Cuba, but the family legacy — and the connection to Santiago — is preserved in the Emilio Bacardí Moreau Museum. Founded in 1899 by the head of the rum dynasty, and housed in a white neoclassical building like a giant slice of wedding cake, the museum includes exhibits devoted to the history of Cuba and the architecture of Santiago de Cuba, plus an excellent collection of colonial-era Cuban paintings and sculptures. But its most famous exhibit may be the Egyptian mummy in the archaeology gallery — a favourite of schoolchildren, and many adult visitors as well. Remembering Martí Santiago’s Santa Ifigenia Cemetery is the final resting place of numerous Cuban heroes, including Fidel Castro, but its patriotic centrepiece is the mausoleum of José Martí (1853–1895) — poet, essayist, political philosopher, and revolutionary, killed during the Cuban War of Independence against the Spanish empire. Built in the form of a tower, Martí’s mausoleum is ringed by six monumental sculptures of women, representing the provinces of Cuba at the time of his death. “Do not bury me in darkness,” Martí once wrote, “I will die facing the sun” — and indeed the structure is designed so that a beam of sunlight illuminates the poet’s statue inside. Caribbean Airlines operates daily flights to Miami and Kingston, Jamaica, with connections on other airlines to Havana and Santiago WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 81
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Contents No. 146 July/August 2017 4
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Cover Trinidadian jazz musician and
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datebook If you’re in . . . New Y
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datebook Jump into July Taste of Si
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datebook Already August Deer Dance
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word of mouth Dispatches from our c
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word of mouth courtesy the cutlass
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Page 35 and 36: Jamaican Marlon Samuels joins the S
Page 37 and 38: Side by Side We Stand, by Nathalie
Page 39 and 40: SCREENSHOTS Sharing Stella Directed
Page 41 and 42: Often dismissed as a weed, purslane
Page 43 and 44: Immerse Maria Nunes 42 Closeup A he
Page 45 and 46: WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 43
Page 47 and 48: Charles is jazz with a West Indian
Page 50: These two have been described as hi
Page 53 and 54: “Poems are probably the place whe
Page 55 and 56: The Antigua Dance Academy is the ki
Page 57 and 58: Antigua Dance Academy founder Veron
Page 59 and 60: Yearwood’s penchant for pushing a
Page 61 and 62: and performing — it’s about fin
Page 63 and 64: my friend Patrick’s mother. And H
Page 65 and 66: ARRIVE andre donawa 64 Escape Land
Page 67 and 68: In the hills above Ocho Rios, the B
Page 69 and 70: WWW.CARIBBEAN-AIRLINES.COM 67 Doug
Page 72 and 73: In the hills of St Ann Parish, the
Page 74 and 75: Up close, the Blue Mountains of wes
Page 76: To the most high The flames licked
Page 79 and 80: ADVERTORIALS Sterling Asset Managem
Page 81: Jamaica C a r Bamboo Avenue Montego
Page 85 and 86: “ We set out to create a car that
Page 87 and 88: Just outside Oistins, Miami Beach s
Page 89 and 90: above barbados Just north of Bridge
Page 92 and 93: Most people think of Barbados as a
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Page 96 and 97: Eighteenth-century Codrington Colle
Page 98 and 99: LAYOVER frans lemmens/Alamy Stock P
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Page 102 and 103: INSPIRE Attorney and activist Arif
Page 104 and 105: on this day Twisting Rhodes Sixty y
Page 106 and 107: puzzles 146 puzzle grid.pdf 1 5/23/
Page 108 and 109: 87% (2017 year-to-date: 31 January)
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Caribbean Beat — July/August 2017 (#146)

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