Vogue Magazine February 2018 USA Edition
Vogue Magazine February 2018 USA Edition can be downloaded (no opt-in & no membership) from http://magazineshq.blogspot.my/
Vogue Magazine February 2018 USA Edition can be downloaded (no opt-in & no membership) from http://magazineshq.blogspot.my/
You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles
YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
“ THE<br />
EMOTIONS<br />
ARE<br />
INSANE”<br />
Serena<br />
OPENS UP ON<br />
MOTHERHOOD,<br />
MARRIAGE<br />
& MAKING HER<br />
COMEBACK<br />
FEB<br />
Love All<br />
WITH A CAUSE<br />
IN THE TRENCHES<br />
A CLASSIC COAT BREAKS OUT<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
DIOR BOUTIQUES 800.929.DIOR (3467) DIOR.COM<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
© <strong>2018</strong> Estée Lauder Inc.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
Founded by<br />
A Woman. For Women.<br />
esteelauder.com @esteelauder<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
NEW<br />
MOISTURIZER<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
FIRMS AND CORRECTS DARK SPOTS.<br />
SPF 30. OIL-FREE.<br />
NEW RÉNERGIE LIFT<br />
MULTI-ACTION ULTRA<br />
FIRMING AND DARK SPOT CORRECTING MOISTURIZER<br />
join elite rewards on lancome.com<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
FENDI BOUTIQUES 646 520 2830 FENDI.COM<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
The new force to fight gravity.<br />
ESTÉE LAUDER INVENTS:<br />
Perfectionist Pro<br />
Rapid Firm + Lift Treatment<br />
with Acetyl Hexapeptide-8<br />
This breakthrough formula helps strengthen your<br />
skin’s vital support network, delivering visible<br />
improvement to multiple facial zones – along the<br />
jawline, cheeks, around eyes and even stubborn<br />
laugh lines – for an overall natural, more lifted<br />
and youthful look.<br />
© <strong>2018</strong> Estée Lauder Inc.<br />
esteelauder.com<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
INSTANTLY<br />
Your skin is<br />
radiant, hydrated,<br />
rejuvenated.<br />
Professionally<br />
inspired.<br />
Patented<br />
until 2021.<br />
3 DAYS<br />
Your skin<br />
feels smooth,<br />
plumped,<br />
baby-soft.<br />
2 WEEKS<br />
Skin feels firmer<br />
and facial contours<br />
look more lifted.<br />
Skin appears<br />
less lined.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
WWW.VALENTINO.COM<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
870 MADISON AVENUE 67 WOOSTER STREET NEW YORK<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
FAMILY<br />
<strong>February</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />
SISTER ACT<br />
SERENA AND VENUS WILLIAMS IN XHILARATION ONE-PIECE PAJAMAS.<br />
52<br />
Masthead<br />
62<br />
Editor’s Letter<br />
66<br />
Up Front<br />
Drinking allowed<br />
Leslie Jamison<br />
to flee a crippling<br />
sense of who<br />
she was; running<br />
allowed her<br />
to transcend it<br />
74<br />
V LIFE<br />
What to watch, wear,<br />
and see this month<br />
98<br />
Masters<br />
of Ceremony<br />
A look at the red<br />
carpet’s iconic<br />
hair and makeup<br />
moments<br />
107<br />
Point of View<br />
108<br />
Love All<br />
Serena Williams<br />
opens up to Rob<br />
Haskell about how<br />
profoundly her<br />
life has changed.<br />
And how badly<br />
she wants that<br />
25th Grand Slam<br />
116<br />
Love in the<br />
Trenches<br />
Reimagined<br />
topcoats have<br />
never felt so timely<br />
126<br />
Stronger<br />
Together<br />
Propelled by a<br />
desire for change,<br />
these families are<br />
not waiting for the<br />
world to catch up<br />
136<br />
Living Their Truth<br />
Stormzy and<br />
Maya Jama are<br />
London’s coolest<br />
couple—and not<br />
just for their talent.<br />
Hadley Freeman<br />
meets a duo that<br />
has changed the<br />
conversation<br />
140<br />
American Beauty<br />
A quarter century<br />
after its original<br />
premiere, Tony<br />
Kushner’s epochal<br />
Angels in America<br />
returns to Broadway.<br />
By Adam Green<br />
144<br />
Happy Valley<br />
Alexis and Trevor<br />
Traina restored a<br />
100-year-old kit<br />
house and grounds<br />
to create a nostalgic<br />
family idyll in Napa.<br />
By Hamish Bowles<br />
148<br />
The Big East<br />
As the culinary<br />
world swoons over<br />
authentic regional<br />
Chinese cooking,<br />
Tamar Adler sets<br />
out to re-create a<br />
beloved dish from<br />
childhood<br />
150<br />
True Colors<br />
Former model and<br />
<strong>Vogue</strong> columnist<br />
Audrey Smaltz<br />
reflects on how a<br />
once-marginalized<br />
community is<br />
redefining the<br />
beauty industry<br />
152<br />
Simon Says<br />
Five years after<br />
breaking out, Simon<br />
Porte Jacquemus is<br />
still doing things his<br />
way—and taking<br />
the fashion world<br />
by storm.<br />
By Lynn Yaeger<br />
158<br />
Home Spun<br />
Prints shone<br />
gloriously on the<br />
spring runways<br />
162<br />
Boot Camp<br />
Highly adorned,<br />
ankle-grazing<br />
boots are running<br />
the show<br />
170<br />
Index<br />
The current<br />
objects of our<br />
affection? All<br />
things prim and<br />
proper—and<br />
positively alluring<br />
176<br />
Last Look<br />
Cover Look<br />
Maternal Instinct<br />
Serena Williams<br />
wears a Versace<br />
dress. Jennifer Meyer<br />
earrings. Eva Fehren<br />
bracelet. To get this<br />
look, try: Even Better<br />
Glow Light Reflecting<br />
Makeup Broad<br />
Spectrum SPF15 in<br />
Clove, Chubby Stick<br />
Sculpting Contour<br />
in Curvy Contour,<br />
Chubby Stick<br />
Sculpting Highlight in<br />
Hefty Highlight, Cheek<br />
Pop in Peach Pop,<br />
All About Shadow<br />
Quad in Teddy Bear,<br />
Quickliner for Eyes<br />
in Black/Brown,<br />
High Impact Lash<br />
Elevating Mascara in<br />
Black, Just Browsing<br />
Brush-On Styling<br />
Mousse in Deep<br />
Brown, and Pop Matte<br />
Lip Colour + Primer<br />
in Blushing Pop. All<br />
by Clinique. Details,<br />
see In This Issue.<br />
Photographed<br />
by Mario Testino.<br />
Fashion Editor<br />
Tonne Goodman.<br />
SERENA: HAIR, VERNON FRANÇOIS FOR VERNON FRANÇOIS; MAKEUP, TYRON MACHHAUSEN. VENUS: HAIR, ANGELA MEADOWS AND NIGEL PHILLIPS;<br />
MAKEUP, NATASHA GROSS AND JAINEL FORBES. SET DESIGN, RAFA OLARRA. PRODUCED BY JEREMY MCGUIRE AT GE PROJECTS. DETAILS, SEE IN THIS ISSUE.<br />
38<br />
VOGUE FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong><br />
VOGUE.COM<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
SEPHORA<br />
DIOR.COM<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
1<br />
THE TIME IS NOW<br />
CAPTURE YOUTH<br />
THE DIOR AGE-DEFYING REGIMEN THAT ACTS NOW TO DEFY THE APPEARANCE OF SIGNS OF AGING<br />
A Dior worldwide first: the new Capture Youth Age-Delay regimen works with the skin’s fundamental<br />
natural antioxidant system to strengthen the skin and defy signs of aging before they appear.<br />
The crème, together with the 5 targeted serums create a completely customizable range whatever<br />
your skin’s identified needs. Skin becomes stronger and looks younger for longer.<br />
CAPTURE YOUTH: YOUNG FOR LONGER<br />
ANTIOXIDATION<br />
PATENTED<br />
SCIENCE<br />
TECHNOLOGY<br />
SORBONNE UNIVERSITY<br />
Dior and UPMC/Sorbonne<br />
University collaborate to<br />
advance research<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
1<br />
Patent applied for in France.
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
CAPTURE YOUTH<br />
5 TARGETED EXPERT SERUMS TO CUSTOMIZE YOUR REGIMEN<br />
Tighten - Mattify - Illuminate - Soothe - Plump<br />
Dior Science has selected the most effective natural-origin ingredients (Vitamin C, Hyaluronic Acid,<br />
Lactic Acid, Peptides, Polyphenols) and infused one of them at the heart of each powerful targeted serum.<br />
Mix & match: the Capture Youth serums can be layered under the cream or mixed together to create<br />
a custom regimen to target the skin’s identified needs.<br />
LIFT SCULPTOR<br />
Lift & Sculpt<br />
POLYPHENOLS<br />
MATTE MAXIMIZER<br />
Mattify & Refine pores<br />
LACTIC ACID<br />
GLOW BOOSTER<br />
Brighten & Even out<br />
VITAMIN C<br />
REDNESS SOOTHER<br />
Soothe & Correct redness<br />
PEPTIDES<br />
PLUMP FILLER<br />
Plump & Rehydrate<br />
HYALURONIC ACID<br />
1<br />
Known at Dior.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
VOGUE<br />
LIVING<br />
COUNTRY<br />
CITY<br />
COAST<br />
Lavishly illustrated, this beautiful book features stories from the pages of <strong>Vogue</strong><br />
with more than thirty unique homes and gardens whose<br />
owners come from the worlds of fashion, design, art, and society.<br />
Introduction by Hamish Bowles.<br />
PUBLISHED BY ALFRED A. KNOPF<br />
aaknopf.com<br />
Available wherever books are sold<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
4(?4(9(*64<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
ANNA WINTOUR<br />
Editor in Chief<br />
Creative Director DAVID SEBBAH<br />
Fashion Director TONNE GOODMAN<br />
Features Director EVE MACSWEENEY Market Director, Fashion and Accessories VIRGINIA SMITH<br />
Executive Fashion Editor PHYLLIS POSNICK Style Director CAMILLA NICKERSON<br />
International Editor at Large HAMISH BOWLES Fashion News Director MARK HOLGATE<br />
Creative Digital Director SALLY SINGER<br />
Creative Director at Large GRACE CODDINGTON<br />
FASHION/ACCESSORIES<br />
Bookings Director HELENA SURIC Accessories Director SELBY DRUMMOND<br />
Editors GRACE GIVENS, WILLOW LINDLEY, ALEXANDRA MICHLER, FRANCESCA RAGAZZI Menswear Editor MICHAEL PHILOUZE<br />
Associate Fashion Editors TAYLOR ANGINO, YOHANA LEBASI Associate Market Editor MADELINE SWANSON Market Manager CAROLINE GRISWOLD<br />
Fashion Writer RACHEL WALDMAN Fashion Market Assistant NAOMI ELIZEE<br />
BEAUTY<br />
Beauty Director CELIA ELLENBERG<br />
Senior Beauty Editor LAURA REGENSDORF<br />
Beauty Associate ZOE RUFFNER<br />
FEATURES<br />
Executive Editor TAYLOR ANTRIM<br />
Senior Editors CHLOE SCHAMA, COREY SEYMOUR<br />
Entertainment Director JILLIAN DEMLING Style Editor at Large ELISABETH VON THURN UND TAXIS<br />
Assistant Entertainment Editor MAXWELL LOSGAR Assistant Editor LILAH RAMZI<br />
Features Associate NOOR BRARA Features Assistants MICHAELA BECHLER, LAUREN SANCHEZ<br />
CREATIVE<br />
Design Director AURELIE PELLISSIER ROMAN Senior Art Director MARTIN HOOPS<br />
Art Director FERNANDO DIAS DE SOUZA<br />
Associate Art Director NOBI KASHIWAGI<br />
Senior Designer SARA JEND<strong>USA</strong><br />
Visual Director, Research MAUREEN SONGCO Senior Visual Editor, Research TIM HERZOG Visual Research Editor DARIA DI LELLO<br />
Visual Director NIC BURDEKIN Senior Visual Editors LIANA BLUM, EMILY ROSSER<br />
Visual Editors SAMANTHA ADLER, RUBEN RAMOS Visual Producers IAN CRANE, ERINA DIGBY, ELIZABETH YOWE<br />
VOGUE.COM<br />
General Manager PAMELA ABBOTT Digital Director ANNA-LISA YABSLEY<br />
Director of Engineering KENTON JACOBSEN Executive Editor JESSIE HEYMAN<br />
Fashion News Director CHIOMA NNADI Director, <strong>Vogue</strong> Runway NICOLE PHELPS Beauty Director CATHERINE PIERCY<br />
Style Editor EDWARD BARSAMIAN Fashion News and Emerging Platforms Editor STEFF YOTKA<br />
Fashion News Editor MONICA KIM Fashion Features Editor EVIANA HARTMAN<br />
Senior Product Manager BEN SMIT Digital Content Manager OLIVIA WEISS<br />
Archive Editor LAIRD BORRELLI-PERSSON Senior Market Editor KIRBY MARZEC Market Editor ANNY CHOI Associate Market Editor ALEXANDRA GURVITCH<br />
Senior Fashion News Writers JANELLE OKWODU, LIANA SATENSTEIN Fashion News Writers BROOKE BOBB, EMILY FARRA, RACHEL HAHN, MARIA WARD<br />
Senior Beauty Editor KATE BRANCH Beauty Writer LAUREN VALENTI Associate Beauty Editor JENNA RENNERT<br />
Culture Editor ALESSANDRA CODINHA Culture Writer BRIDGET READ<br />
Living Editor ELLA RILEY-ADAMS Contributing Living Editor ALEXANDRA MACON Living Writer ELISE TAYLOR<br />
Senior Manager, Social Media LUCIE ZHANG Manager, Social Media ALYSSA FIORENTINO Associate Manager, Social Media TOI BLY<br />
Supervising Producer, Video KIMBERLY ARMS Senior Producer, Video DAYNA CARNEY Motion Graphics Designer, Social Media MICHEL SAYEGH<br />
Producer, Video REBECCA FOURTEAU Associate Producers, Video MARINA WEISBURG, ANNA PAGE NADIN Associate Editor, Emerging Platforms NIA PORTER<br />
Associate Production Manager, Emerging Platforms AMANDA BROOKS Visual Designer, Emerging Platforms NIKOLA JOCIC Production Manager MALEANA DAVIS<br />
Associate Director, Audience Development ABBY SJOBERG Manager, Digital Analytics ZAC SCHWARTZ Digital Editorial Associate SEAN FELTON<br />
Engineering Manager GILES COPP Senior Developers JEROME COVINGTON, GREGORY KILIAN Product Manager KATE DEVINE Developers JASON CHOI, BEN MILTON<br />
PRODUCTION/COPY/RESEARCH<br />
Deputy Managing Editor DAVID BYARS<br />
Copy Director JOYCE RUBIN Research Director ANDREW GILLINGS<br />
Digital Production Manager JASON ROE Production Designer COR HAZELAAR Production Associate EMMA JOSLYN<br />
Copy Managers ADRIANA BÜRGI, JANE CHUN<br />
Research Managers LISA MACABASCO, KAREN SMITH-JANSSEN, LESLIE ANNE WIGGINS<br />
Fashion Credits Editor IVETTE MANNERS<br />
SPECIAL EVENTS/EDITORIAL DEVELOPMENT/COMMUNICATIONS<br />
Director of Special Events EADDY KIERNAN Special Events Manager CARA SANDERS Special Events Associate BRITTANY DAULTON<br />
Editorial Business Director MIRA ILIE Associate Director, Operations XAVIER GONZALEZ Contracts Manager ALEXA ELAM<br />
Editorial Business Coordinator JESSECA JONES Associate Director of Logistics MIMOZA NELA<br />
Director of Communications ZARA RAHIM Director of Brand Marketing NEGAR MOHAMMADI<br />
Executive Assistant to the Editor in Chief JASMINE CONTOMICHALOS Assistants to the Editor in Chief MARLEY MARIUS, JESSICA NICHOLS<br />
European Editor FIONA DARIN European Fashion Associate CAMILA HENNESSY<br />
West Coast Director LISA LOVE West Coast Special Projects Editor CAMERON BIRD<br />
Head of Content Strategy and Operations CHRISTIANE MACK Head Creative Director RAÚL MARTINEZ<br />
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS<br />
JORDEN BICKHAM, MIRANDA BROOKS, SARAH BROWN, SYLVANA WARD DURRETT, ADAM GREEN, ROB HASKELL,<br />
NATHAN HELLER, LAWREN HOWELL, CAROLINA IRVING, REBECCA JOHNSON, DODIE KAZANJIAN, HILDY KURYK,<br />
SHIRLEY LORD, CHLOE MALLE, CATIE MARRON, LAUREN MECHLING, SARAH MOWER, MEGAN O’GRADY, JOHN POWERS,<br />
MARINA RUST, LAUREN SANTO DOMINGO, TABITHA SIMMONS, JEFFREY STEINGARTEN, ROBERT SULLIVAN, PLUM SYKES,<br />
ANDRÉ LEON TALLEY, JONATHAN VAN METER, SHELLEY WANGER, JANE WITHERS, LYNN YAEGER<br />
52<br />
VOGUE FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong><br />
VOGUE.COM<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
AND YOU, WHAT WOULD YOU DO FOR LOVE?<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
©<strong>2018</strong> P&G<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
NEW<br />
WOW<br />
at FIRST TOUCH<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
NEW<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
feel a LIGHT AS AIR<br />
finish in a FLASH<br />
Delightfully whipped for instant absorption.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
S<strong>USA</strong>N D. PLAGEMANN<br />
Chief Business Officer<br />
Vice President, Marketing KIMBERLY FASTING BERG<br />
Vice President, Revenue AMY OELKERS<br />
Vice President, Finance and Business Development SYLVIA W. CHAN<br />
Sales Director MARIE LA FRANCE<br />
ADVERTISING<br />
Executive Account Director, International Fashion S<strong>USA</strong>N CAPPA<br />
Executive Account Director, Retail GERALDINE RIZZO<br />
Executive Account Director, Beauty LAUREN HULKOWER-BELNICK<br />
Senior Account Director ROY KIM<br />
Account Director LENA JOHNSON<br />
Account Director LYNDSEY NATALE<br />
Senior Account Executive BLAIR CHEMIDLIN<br />
Executive Assistant ANNIE MAYBELL<br />
Sales Associates NINA CAPACCHIONE, DEIRDRE D’AMICO, JORDAN WEISS<br />
Advertising Tel: 212 286 2860<br />
BUSINESS<br />
Senior Business Director TERESA GRANDA<br />
Business Manager MERIDITH HAINES<br />
Business Analyst SAMANTHA SHEEHAN<br />
MARKETING<br />
Executive Director, Marketplace Strategy MELISSA HALVERSON<br />
Executive Director, Brand Marketing RACHAEL KLEIN<br />
Director, Branded Content Strategy ELAINE D’FARLEY<br />
Director, Experiences CARA CROWLEY STAMMLER<br />
Director, Brand Marketing MARISSA EISNER, MICHELLE FAWBUSH<br />
Associate Creative Director SARAH RUBY Art Director TIM SCHULTHEIS<br />
Senior Producer SCOTT ASHWELL<br />
Associate Directors, Brand Marketing MEGAN GRAHAM, ALEXANDRIA GURULE, LIAM MCKESSAR<br />
Managers, Brand Marketing RYAN HOOVER, TARA MCDERMOTT<br />
Marketing Associate KATIE KNOLL<br />
CO/LAB<br />
Director, Digital Operations JASON LOUIE<br />
Senior Account Manager REBECCA ISQUITH<br />
Account Managers ALANA SCHARLOP, REBECCA YOUNG<br />
Sales Planners CYDNEY ECKERT, JESSICA MILLER<br />
Campaign Managers TOMMY ATKINS, KENDALL ROCHELLE<br />
BRANCH OFFICES<br />
San Francisco ASHLEY KNOWLTON, Account Director, 1700 Montgomery St., Suite 200, San Francisco CA 94111 Tel: 415 955 8210<br />
Midwest WENDY LEVY, Senior Account Director, 875 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago IL 60611 Tel: 312 649 3522<br />
Los Angeles JILL BIREN, Account Director, 6300 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles CA 90048 Tel: 323 965 3598<br />
Southeast PETER ZUCKERMAN, Z. MEDIA 1666 Kennedy Causeway, Suite 602, Miami Beach FL 33141 Tel: 305 532 5566<br />
Paris FLORENCE MOUVIER, Account Director, Europe 4 Place du Palais Bourbon, 75343 Paris Cedex 07 Tel: 331 4411 7846<br />
Milan ALESSANDRO AND RINALDO MODENESE, Directors; BARBARA FERRAZZI, Sales Manager, Italy Via M. Malpighi 4, 20129 Milan Tel: 39 02 2951 3521<br />
PUBLISHED BY CONDÉ NAST<br />
Chairman Emeritus S. I. NEWHOUSE, JR.<br />
President & Chief Executive Officer ROBERT A. SAUERBERG, JR.<br />
Chief Financial Officer DAVID E. GEITHNER<br />
Chief Revenue and Marketing Officer PAMELA DRUCKER MANN<br />
Executive Vice President/Chief Digital Officer FRED SANTARPIA<br />
Chief Human Resources Officer JOANN MURRAY<br />
Chief Communications Officer CAMERON R. BLANCHARD<br />
Chief Technology Officer EDWARD CUDAHY<br />
Executive Vice President–Consumer Marketing MONICA RAY<br />
Senior Vice President–Managing Director–23 Stories JOSH STINCHCOMB<br />
Senior Vice President–Network Sales & Partnerships, CN & Chief Revenue Officer, CNÉ LISA VALENTINO<br />
Senior Vice President–Financial Planning & Analysis SUZANNE REINHARDT<br />
Senior Vice President–Licensing CATHY HOFFMAN GLOSSER<br />
Senior Vice President–Research & Analytics STEPHANIE FRIED<br />
Senior Vice President–Digital Operations LARRY BAACH<br />
General Manager–Digital MATTHEW STARKER<br />
CONDÉ NAST ENTERTAINMENT<br />
President DAWN OSTROFF<br />
Executive Vice President–General Manager–Digital Video JOY MARCUS<br />
Executive Vice President–Chief Operating Officer SAHAR ELHABASHI<br />
Executive Vice President–Motion Pictures JEREMY STECKLER<br />
Executive Vice President–Alternative TV JOE LABRACIO<br />
Executive Vice President–CNÉ Studios AL EDGINGTON<br />
Senior Vice President–Marketing & Partner Management TEAL NEWLAND<br />
CONDÉ NAST INTERNATIONAL<br />
Chairman and Chief Executive JONATHAN NEWHOUSE<br />
President and Chief Digital Officer WOLFGANG BLAU<br />
Condé Nast is a global media company producing premium content for more than 263 million consumers in 30 markets.<br />
www.condenast.com www.condenastinternational.com Published at 1 World Trade Center, New York NY 10007.<br />
Subscription Inquiries: subscriptions@vogue.com or www.vogue.com/services or call (800) 234-2347.<br />
For Permissions and Reprint requests: (212) 630-5656; fax: (212) 630-5883.<br />
Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to <strong>Vogue</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong>, 1 World Trade Center, New York NY 10007.<br />
60<br />
VOGUE FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong><br />
VOGUE.COM<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
WWW.EFFYHEMATIAN.COM<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
Letter from the Editor<br />
ALL IN THE FAMILY<br />
LEFT: SERENA WILLIAMS (IN A RALPH LAUREN COLLECTION<br />
DRESS) WITH DAUGHTER ALEXIS OLYMPIA OHANIAN JR.,<br />
PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARIO TESTINO. BELOW: CHRISTOPHER<br />
BAILEY, PHOTOGRAPHED BY ANNIE LEIBOVITZ, 2016.<br />
Relative Values<br />
Two equally gorgeous cover stars grace our<br />
<strong>February</strong> issue: Serena Williams and her<br />
three-month-old daughter, Alexis Olympia<br />
Ohanian Jr. Writer Rob Haskell went to visit<br />
mother, daughter, and father—tech entrepreneur<br />
Alexis Ohanian—at home in Florida<br />
and found Serena to be as honest as ever. While she is an<br />
unbelievably gifted sportswoman, her athletic prowess has<br />
always been amplified by her openness about life’s ups and<br />
downs—and her awareness that the most joyous occasions<br />
can sometimes bring both. Not long after giving birth, Serena<br />
was to suffer six days of horrific health difficulties, and<br />
she was entirely willing to be frank about them to Rob. I’m<br />
happy to say that she has clearly fully recovered. I was a guest<br />
at Serena and Alexis’s wedding a couple of months ago, and it<br />
was a celebration not only of their love for each other but of<br />
the extended sisterhood that Serena surrounds herself with,<br />
from family and friends to her support network—something<br />
I was reminded of when I saw this line in the story: “I never<br />
wanted a traditional wedding. I wanted a strong wedding.”<br />
In many ways, this <strong>February</strong> issue is a celebration of the<br />
ties that bind us together. It’s dedicated to the notion of family,<br />
however one chooses to define that today. As we were<br />
finishing putting it together, it became public knowledge<br />
that Christopher Bailey, chief creative officer of Burberry,<br />
was stepping down after nearly seventeen years at the label.<br />
Christopher has always been part of the <strong>Vogue</strong> family, and<br />
we will miss both his terrific work and the humility and<br />
charm with which he delivered it. Still, few people deserve a<br />
break more than Christopher, whose extraordinarily strenuous<br />
work schedule first became apparent to me years ago at<br />
an event we attended in Tokyo. I arrived a day or two early<br />
to prepare and adjust. Christopher, to my astonishment,<br />
turned up directly from the airport. He did his bit brilliantly,<br />
charmed all the guests for a couple of hours, and then returned<br />
to the airport for a flight back to London. Not even<br />
James Bond could perform with such efficiency, in such a<br />
great suit, or with such an endearing smile.<br />
I know that leaving Burberry was a decision Christopher<br />
had considered carefully for a long while. And I know how<br />
much he’s looking forward to proper time with his husband,<br />
Simon, and their two lovely daughters. I am sad at the<br />
thought of not seeing him take his near-invisible bow from<br />
the Burberry runway, but I am so happy knowing that he’ll<br />
instead be home, watching his children take bows of their<br />
own, and striding up the path toward the family that he loves<br />
so much and toward a future that beckons so brightly.<br />
WILLIAMS: FASHION EDITOR: TONNE GOODMAN. HAIR, VERNON FRANÇOIS FOR VERNON FRANÇOIS; MAKEUP, TYRON<br />
MACHHAUSEN. SET DESIGN, RAFA OLARRA. PRODUCED BY JEREMY MCGUIRE AT GE PROJECTS. DETAILS, SEE IN THIS ISSUE.<br />
62<br />
VOGUE FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong><br />
VOGUE.COM<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
Advertisement<br />
list<br />
the<br />
PROMOTIONS AND<br />
EVENTS IN FEBRUARY<br />
A POINT OF VIEW IS<br />
JOIN AND SOUND OFF.<br />
THE SAVVIEST<br />
WAY TO SAVE<br />
GEICO has been saving people<br />
money on car insurance for<br />
more than 75 years and<br />
they’d love to do the same<br />
for you. With a 97% customer<br />
satisfaction rate and 24/7<br />
customer support with a<br />
licensed agent, GEICO also<br />
saves you time and worry.<br />
For a free quote, call<br />
1-800-947-AUTO (2886),<br />
visit your local office, or go to<br />
geico.com.<br />
CRAIG MCDEAN<br />
V<br />
INSIDERS<br />
VOGUEINSIDERS.COM<br />
Some discounts, coverages, payment plans and<br />
features are not available in all states or all<br />
GEICO companies. Customer satisfaction based on<br />
an independent study conducted by Alan Newman Research,<br />
2016. GEICO is a registered service mark of Government<br />
Employees Insurance Company, Washington, D.C. 20076;<br />
a Berkshire Hathaway Inc. subsidiary. © 2017 GEICO<br />
GO TO VOGUE.COM/PROMOTIONS<br />
TO RECEIVE OFFERS, LEARN<br />
ABOUT EVENTS, AND GET<br />
THE LATEST BUZZ FROM VOGUE<br />
AND YOUR FAVORITE FASHION<br />
AND BEAUTY BRANDS.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
Up Front<br />
The<br />
Escape<br />
Artist<br />
Drinking allowed the teenage Leslie Jamison to flee a crippling sense<br />
of who she was; running allowed her to transcend it.<br />
In seventh grade, it was difficult to speak. I wore<br />
floral skirts with suspenders and ate in the carpeted<br />
vestibule outside the teacher’s lounge, huddled<br />
in a small group of girls with whom I felt<br />
marginally less terrified than I did with everyone<br />
else. “Why are you so quiet?” one of the more<br />
popular girls—which is to say, all of the other<br />
girls—would sometimes ask. That word, quiet,<br />
shadowed my every move. It seemed to describe the limits of<br />
my identity. I got good grades in every subject but PE, where<br />
my teacher’s reports were brutal, citing my failure to manifest<br />
basic coordination. I was picked last, or nearly last, for every<br />
team, a ritual humiliation that seemed like little more than<br />
confirmation of what I already knew: that I wasn’t despised,<br />
but something worse—simply invisible, forgettable.<br />
During the years that followed junior high, two things<br />
released me from shyness or helped me glimpse a version<br />
of myself that was not entirely censored or gripped by it:<br />
running and drinking. Both carried me past the threshold<br />
of being in control, past the paralyzed, fearful, silent person<br />
I believed I was destined to be. Running carried me<br />
to states where I was so exhausted that I had no energy<br />
left over for the spinning gears of my own UP FRONT>68<br />
RUNNER’S HIGH<br />
MODEL NAOMI CAMPBELL RUNNING IN THE DESERT,<br />
PHOTOGRAPHED BY HERB RITTS FOR VOGUE, 1989.<br />
66<br />
VOGUE FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong><br />
VOGUE.COM<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
QLJKW<br />
FUHDP<br />
GD\<br />
FUHDP<br />
PDVN<br />
:+
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
Up Front<br />
Coming of Age<br />
self-consciousness. Drinking loosened those gears till they<br />
reached a mercifully suspended state, turned liquid. Running<br />
was dust and sweat and sometimes blood, and always<br />
tiredness, and the nerves of all our bodies pressed together<br />
at the start of a race. Drinking was warm nights shadowed<br />
by rustling palm fronds, beer in an RV parked in someone’s<br />
driveway just off Sunset Boulevard, Chardonnay from my<br />
mother’s fridge—an exhalation across my entire body. Running<br />
was difficulty, and drinking was ease, but in their shared<br />
capacity to deliver me from myself they felt like a pair of<br />
unlikely siblings: an odd couple, strangely aligned.<br />
At first, the cross-country team felt like another stage for<br />
my shyness, rather than any kind of release from it. Freshman<br />
year I was about five-six, just under 100 pounds, still nearly<br />
three years away from my first period: a good runner but not<br />
great. I experienced my tall body as a badge<br />
of shame: My physical self was imposing in<br />
its height and seemed to make promises—of<br />
forceful, memorable presence—that my<br />
blanched personality could not fulfill.<br />
The other girls on the team were older<br />
and generally beautiful. They spent our prepractice<br />
stretching sessions post-gaming<br />
weekends that sounded—to me—more<br />
like movies: making out with boys at parties,<br />
getting busted for coming home past<br />
curfew. On a training run one day, another<br />
runner on the team got lost—a girl I’ll call<br />
Helen, who was outspoken and outrageous—and<br />
it wasn’t until we got back to<br />
school that the rest of us realized she was gone. Once she<br />
turned up at school, our coach lectured us: We needed to<br />
keep better track of one another. How had we not noticed<br />
Helen had disappeared? She said, “I mean, I could understand<br />
if it had been Leslie. But Helen?” It stung not because<br />
it was unfair but because it was true.<br />
Still, I loved that running normalized silence:<br />
Seven miles into a ten-mile training run, no one<br />
had much to say about anything. My eternal<br />
quiet finally had an alibi. From the very beginning,<br />
I was drawn to the punishing physicality<br />
of running, and the way this shared pain<br />
quickly became common ground: endless<br />
Saturday-morning practice runs along the packed sand of<br />
the beach at low tide; races with brutal hills named for their<br />
switchbacks or their water tanks or their reservoirs or simply<br />
for their ruthlessness. Running offered ways to feel connected<br />
to other people that didn’t depend on conversation: suffering<br />
through the icy pool at early-morning swim workouts, then<br />
nodding at one another in the hallways later, our wet hair still<br />
smelling faintly of chlorine; sharing long bus rides back home<br />
from races over the Mulholland hump of the 405: all of our<br />
salt-sweated bodies enclosed in zippered warm-up suits. That<br />
closeness didn’t demand I say anything at all.<br />
Senior year, I was a team captain, something that would<br />
have been incomprehensible to me when I first joined. One of<br />
our yearly rituals was a practice we called the “scavenger run,”<br />
If drinking<br />
loosened me<br />
from thecloister<br />
of my body,<br />
then running<br />
involved<br />
inhabiting that<br />
bodyfully<br />
when we were supposed to run for an hour—in pairs—and<br />
bring back the most interesting thing we could find. My partner<br />
Katie and I brought back an employee from a Jamba Juice,<br />
a guy in his late teens who agreed to use his hour-long break<br />
in order to come to school with us, most likely because Katie<br />
was stunningly—disconcertingly—beautiful. I didn’t care.<br />
We’d win for sure. And we did. I felt part of something, fully.<br />
By the end of high school, drinking started ushering me<br />
into some version of the weekends I’d heard other girls describe:<br />
watching fireworks under the easy cloak of a vodka<br />
buzz; getting high and giggling at the menu at Denny’s at<br />
three in the morning. My best friend set me up with her<br />
boyfriend’s best friend—who went to another school, which<br />
meant he hadn’t spent years thinking of me as the shy girl<br />
in the corner—and Jake, as I’ll call him, picked me up one<br />
night in his mother’s teal minivan for our<br />
first date. As we got closer, our time together<br />
grew edged with recklessness and danger<br />
in ways that thrilled me. He ate withered<br />
mushroom caps at Disneyland and started<br />
to freak out in line for Big Thunder Mountain<br />
Railroad as I stroked his forehead, trying<br />
to calm him down. I liked courting the<br />
far edges of being in control—liked that<br />
risk, that sense of something happening.<br />
After Jake’s prom, which happened the<br />
night before my graduation, we went back<br />
to a suite at a budget hotel with a bunch of<br />
his friends—all of us drunk, fooling around<br />
in our own dim corners until we passed out.<br />
When I woke up the next morning, it was ten minutes past<br />
the time I was supposed to have arrived at school, less than<br />
an hour before the start of my ceremony, and I couldn’t find<br />
my shoes anywhere. I grabbed a pair of glittery silver heels by<br />
the door. They belonged to a stranger. I don’t know what she<br />
must have thought when she woke up to find them gone, but I<br />
know that for me they became a kind of talisman: something<br />
strange and glimmering under my somber black robes, these<br />
stolen disco shoes, the closing beat of a night I couldn’t fully<br />
remember. They were proof that I was living beyond the<br />
boundaries of the predictable, the expected, the obedient,<br />
and the ordinary.<br />
Near the end of summer, Jake took me to an old wooden<br />
lifeguard shack on the beach, both of us buzzed, and we<br />
climbed the rickety wooden steps to sit on its splintery floorboards,<br />
our legs dangling over the sand, listening to the waves.<br />
Drinking blurred my edges and made me feel physically part<br />
of the world, entwined with everything around me: his body,<br />
the salt air, the rush and hiss of the water. This was the opposite<br />
of what I’d felt most of my life, that fervent desire to<br />
disappear from whatever moment I’d found myself inhabiting,<br />
so that I could fast-forward to another moment in the<br />
future, once my real life had begun. That night, sitting on the<br />
lifeguard stand, I felt like my real life was beginning.<br />
If running and drinking both offered a sense of release<br />
from myself, they offered it in very different—nearly opposite—ways:<br />
Drinking felt like transportation out of myself,<br />
while running transformed my CONTINUED ON PAGE 172<br />
68<br />
VOGUE FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong><br />
VOGUE.COM<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
Your own personal fountain of youth,<br />
from my grandfather to my father, then to me.<br />
I’ve captured this secret mineral-rich thermal<br />
water in a moisturizer just for you. Brilliant!<br />
- PETER THOMAS ROTH<br />
For years, men and women came from afar to soak in the mineral-rich thermal waters<br />
of Hungarian spas owned by Peter’s grandparents.<br />
Today, in his NEW moisturizer, Peter uses thermal water from a secret spring<br />
deep below Hungary’s Carpathian valley, where the earth’s crust is the thinnest,<br />
allowing water to absorb the most minerals as it bubbles to the surface.<br />
Infused with nine native botanicals and a Bioidentical Triple Lipid Complex,<br />
Hungarian Thermal Water helps restore the look of skin to its most youthful, healthy state.<br />
A picture is worth a thousand words!<br />
Check out astonishing 7-day before and after photos<br />
at peterthomasroth.com/hungarianthermalwater<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
Nourish Your Skin With Mineral-Rich Thermal Water<br />
From Deep Within The Earth<br />
PETERTHOMASROTH.COM | SEPHORA | ULTA | QVC ® | BEAUTY BRANDS | SELECT MACY’S | BLUEMERCURY<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
LIFE<br />
Fashion<br />
Culture<br />
Beauty<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
BEAUTY<br />
HIGH<br />
PROFILE<br />
MODEL HOYEON<br />
JUNG IN A MARC<br />
JACOBS DRESS<br />
AND HAIR<br />
ACCESSORIES<br />
(CLOCKWISE<br />
FROM LEFT) BY<br />
GUCCI, RODARTE,<br />
LADY GREY,<br />
VERSACE, AND<br />
SIMONE ROCHA.<br />
HAIR, JAMES<br />
PECIS FOR ORIBE.<br />
CLIP ART<br />
If barrettes were once the stuff of prim schoolgirls and one moody Margot Tenenbaum, the spring runways put the classic<br />
accessory on the fast track to cool. Dolce & Gabbana tucked playing card–embellished combs above each ear for<br />
a winning pair; at Versace, the megawatt cast of supers wore gilded clips adorned with the house’s signature medallion.<br />
“It introduces an element of excitement into the hair,” says James Pecis, who secured the pearl-pinned waves at<br />
Simone Rocha with the help of Oribe’s texturizing Swept Up powder. The key to a modern pileup: placement that skirts<br />
perfection. Adds the hairstylist reassuringly, “They’re more unique when they’re just a little bit off.”—ZOE RUFFNER<br />
RÉMI LAMANDÉ. FASHION EDITOR: CLARE BYRNE. MAKEUP, KANAKO TAKASE. DETAILS, SEE IN THIS ISSUE.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
#pradaleau<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
Macy’s, Dillard’s and Belk<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
VLIFE<br />
GIFT<br />
Bloom Tıme<br />
Fashion’s floral fixation is age-old.<br />
Gabrielle Chanel was besotted<br />
with the pure-white camellia;<br />
designer Paul Poiret carried<br />
out a long-term love affair with the<br />
rose. So when the farm-to-florist online<br />
delivery service UrbanStems teamed<br />
up with <strong>Vogue</strong>, it was an organic fit.<br />
Inaugurating the yearlong collaboration<br />
are three bouquets as unique as their<br />
creators: Accessories Director Selby<br />
Drummond laced hers with sprigs of<br />
dried lavender, Creative Digital Director<br />
Sally Singer accented blush ranunculi<br />
with an unexpected succulent, and<br />
Director of <strong>Vogue</strong> Runway Nicole<br />
Phelps dressed up filler favorite Queen<br />
Anne’s lace.—LILAH RAMZI<br />
MAKING ARRANGEMENTS<br />
ABOVE: KAHALA AND MAJOLIKA SPRAY<br />
ROSES IN “THE SALLY.” BELOW: HELLEBORE<br />
AND WAXFLOWERS IN “THE NICOLE.”<br />
TELEVISION<br />
Miami Vice<br />
Ryan Murphy’slatest takeson thenotorious<br />
Ocean Drivemurder of Gianni Versace.<br />
GIFT: LIAM GOODMAN.<br />
TELEVISION: PARI DUKOVIC/FX.<br />
The line between fame and infamy keeps getting fainter.<br />
You find a perfect example in The Assassination of<br />
Gianni Versace: American Crime Story, the absorbing<br />
follow-up to the Emmy-winning smash The People v.<br />
O.J. Simpson. It begins on the sunlit 1997 morning when<br />
Versace (Edgar Ramírez, superb), the Italian designer<br />
renowned for his flamboyant warmth, is gunned down by gay gigolo<br />
and wannabe celeb Andrew Cunanan (Glee’s Darren Criss) outside<br />
the fashion icon’s Mediterranean-style villa in Miami Beach. To tease<br />
out this murder’s kaleidoscopic significance, the show leapfrogs<br />
from the deadly path the California-born killer earlier cut across<br />
America to the battle between Versace’s sister, Donatella (a carefully<br />
modulated Penélope Cruz), and his longtime companion, Antonio<br />
D’Amico, vulnerably played by Ricky Martin: They both loved Gianni<br />
but can’t stand each other. Like nearly every drama from writerdirector-producer<br />
Ryan Murphy, The Assassination of Gianni Versace<br />
takes material that could be trashy, then expands the context to<br />
tackle serious issues. Murphy uses Versace’s murder to conjure the<br />
shadowy, bottled-up world of late-nineties America, in which Gianni and<br />
Antonio weren’t treated as a genuine couple (they couldn’t marry),<br />
respectably closeted husbands had furtive liaisons with young men,<br />
and law enforcement was so unsettled by “gay” crimes, they botched the<br />
cases. If the new season isn’t quite as epic as the O.J. story, it boasts a<br />
villain (Criss) who’s even more enigmatically narcissistic.—JOHN POWERS<br />
DEATH BECOMES HER<br />
A FIERCE PENÉLOPE CRUZ AS THE GRIEVING DONATELLA VERSACE IN<br />
THE ASSASSINATION OF GIANNI VERSACE: AMERICAN CRIME STORY.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
VLIFE<br />
SOLANGE KNOWLES<br />
IN JEAN PAUL GAULTIER<br />
COUTURE.<br />
SELENA<br />
GOMEZ IN<br />
LOUIS<br />
VUITTON<br />
AND CALVIN<br />
KLEIN BY<br />
APPOINTMENT.<br />
GIGI HADID<br />
IN RALPH<br />
LAUREN<br />
COLLECTION.<br />
CAMERON<br />
RUSSELL<br />
IN NORMA<br />
KAMALI.<br />
BELLA HADID<br />
IN FENDI.<br />
TREND<br />
Primary<br />
Punch<br />
Not-so-mellow<br />
yellow is a stylish antidote<br />
to the winter blues.<br />
BLAKE LIVELY<br />
IN BRANDON<br />
MAXWELL.<br />
KNOWLES: JASON KEMPIN/GETTY IMAGES FOR GLAMOUR. GIGI: NIGHTMILE/BACKGRID. GOMEZ: ERIK PENDZICH/REX/<br />
SHUTTERSTOCK. LIVELY: JAMES DEVANEY/GETTY IMAGES. RUSSELL: NOAM GALAI/GETTY IMAGES. BELLA: DAVID ATLAN.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
FASTEN YOUR<br />
EVERYTHING<br />
THE CAPTIVATING RC F SPORT<br />
Engineeredformaximumpowerandprecisionhandling,theRC300,RC350,RCFSPORTandAWDmodelsare<br />
wrapped in a dynamically contoured body to grab your attention at every turn. Its wide stance and low profile deliver<br />
increasedstability,and19-inchalloywheels 1 completeitsaggressivelook.Underthehood,itboastsanavailable<br />
311-horsepower 2 3.5-liter V6 engine paired with an eight-speed sequential paddle-shift transmission (RWD). And<br />
insidethecockpit,anavailableLFA-inspiredgaugeclusterkeepsyouinformed,whiledeeplybolsteredfrontsport<br />
seatskeepyoufirmlyplantedthroughthecurves.TheRCFSPORTfromLexus.Oncedriven,there’snogoingback.<br />
lexus.com/RC | #LexusRC<br />
Options shown. 1. 19-in performance tires are expected to experience greater tire wear than conventional tires. Tire life may be substantially less than 15,000 miles, depending upon driving conditions. 2. Ratings<br />
achieved using the required premium unleaded gasoline with an octane rating of 91 or higher. If premium fuel is not used, performance will decrease. ©2017 Lexus<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
VLIFE<br />
GOLDEN RULE<br />
EMMA STONE IN HOLLYWOOD,<br />
NOVEMBER 2016. PHOTOGRAPHED BY<br />
MERT ALAS AND MARCUS PIGGOTT.<br />
TECH<br />
SUPPORT<br />
LEFT: APPLE’S<br />
JONY IVE AT<br />
COMPANY<br />
HEADQUARTERS<br />
IN CUPERTINO,<br />
CALIFORNIA,<br />
OCTOBER 2014.<br />
PHOTOGRAPHED<br />
BY DAVID SIMS.<br />
BELOW: THE<br />
EAMES HOME<br />
IN PACIFIC<br />
PALISADES.<br />
FASHION<br />
West World<br />
A new exhibition at San Francisco’s MOMA celebrates how California went global.<br />
If anywhere can be seen as a bellwether of modern<br />
living circa early <strong>2018</strong>, it’s California. To the north,<br />
Silicon Valley defines the world’s technological frontier,<br />
while in the south, Hollywood still dominates<br />
pop culture. Along the state’s coasts and over its hills,<br />
meanwhile, there hums the vibrant sense of countryside<br />
harmony—from Runyon Canyon hikes in L.A.<br />
to weekending in Big Sur yurts, Californians seem to retain<br />
this nature-centric knack for community, along with a healthy<br />
equilibrium between being plugged in and getting outside and<br />
off the grid. A new exhibition at the San Francisco Museum<br />
of Modern Art, “Designed in California,” underscores this<br />
enviable way of life by tracing the state’s creativity from the<br />
mid-century to now. As the show’s curator, Jennifer Dunlop<br />
Fletcher, says, “California is attractive because Californians<br />
really have this work-life thing balanced out.”<br />
The exhibition features pieces ranging from Edith Heath’s<br />
earthen ceramics—crafted as a way of “dropping out” and<br />
getting one’s hands dirty in the wake of the sterile corporate<br />
branding of the fifties—to Apple’s original 1984 Macintosh<br />
and its first pebble-smooth 2007 iPhone, designed by Jony<br />
Ive, and Nest’s intelligent thermostat. In each piece, there’s<br />
a give-and-take between the natural and the technological,<br />
along with the sense that each object has, in some manner,<br />
paved the way for what has become integral to our time.<br />
“When Charles and Ray Eames dismantled their office in<br />
Los Angeles, SFMOMA received their conference room,”<br />
says Fletcher, giving an example. “It’s where they tested their<br />
multimedia demonstrations, but both on their table and<br />
around the space, many items—even the small ones—had<br />
reflective or mirrored surfaces. The Eameses were predicting<br />
that we’d see the world on tiny screens..”<br />
FASHION>82<br />
EAMES: ARCHIVIO GBB/CONTRASTO/REDUX<br />
80<br />
VOGUE FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong> VOGUE.COM<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
Target 100% of toxins<br />
and decongest<br />
pores without stripping.<br />
Want skin that’s beyond<br />
soft and glowing?<br />
Start purifying.<br />
Neutrogena ® .<br />
See what’s possible.<br />
©J&JCI <strong>2018</strong><br />
neutrogena.com/purify<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
VLIFE<br />
Ive, over the phone from Cupertino, speaks to a similar<br />
sentiment for <strong>2018</strong>. “There’s a momentum here—a preoccupation<br />
with designing something new. This creates an<br />
optimism that I think is very particular to the place. And I<br />
personally find the weather and the nature of the light to be<br />
worth getting up for in the morning!” he adds, with a laugh.<br />
Though “Designed in California” is focused on product<br />
design, this symmetry between the digital and the elemental<br />
is also apparent in the state’s fashion identity. Rodarte, the<br />
demi-couture label by sisters (and central-coast natives) Kate<br />
and Laura Mulleavy, revels in a filmic, bucolic wonderland<br />
with artlike dresses evoking fairyland forests and the Pop<br />
oddness of artist Ed Ruscha. Greg Chait’s The Elder Statesman,<br />
launched from a bungalow in Venice Beach, is inspired<br />
by Chait’s network of surfers, and his palm-tree cashmere<br />
sweaters and salt-kissed bajas are all locally produced.<br />
“I spend my life toggling between outside and inside,”<br />
Chait says. “I reckon it’s a perfect balance. California, as<br />
a place to live and to create, is really about freedom.” The<br />
jeweler Irene Neuwirth, out of Venice, envisions pieces with<br />
exuberant color and energy—offset with an artfully metered<br />
understatement. “The outdoors is at my core,” she says.<br />
Compared with the sharper aesthetic coming from<br />
places east—say, Balenciaga’s tongue-in-chic corporate<br />
park–branded pieces—Golden State fashion fits serenely<br />
within its homegrown legacy of ahead-of-the-curve, and<br />
utterly chic, living. If this exhibition is any indication, we’ll be<br />
looking westward for a long, long while.—NICK REMSEN<br />
DESIGN<br />
The Big<br />
Picture<br />
“I love the idea of large-scale<br />
prints,” says John Derian, whose<br />
self-titled, New York–based<br />
home-goods stores have long<br />
been beloved mainstays in the<br />
design world, and who is wading<br />
into new waters with a collection<br />
of fabrics and wallpapers made in<br />
collaboration with Designers Guild.<br />
“Designers Guild is one of my<br />
oldest clients—I’ve been working<br />
with them since the nineties!”<br />
Derian says. “They’re not afraid of<br />
using a lot of color and pattern.”<br />
The prints source the imagery and<br />
symbols that have become central<br />
to the Derian brand over the<br />
years, from an 1800s painted rose<br />
reimagined for a chintz (shown on<br />
the love seat, LEFT) to renderings<br />
of ferns, swallows, and seashells,<br />
as well as the color palettes used<br />
for his decoupage object series.<br />
The collection will also present a<br />
capsule selection of pillows, should<br />
one prefer a more conservative<br />
approach to living with pattern.<br />
“But don’t be scared of print!”<br />
Derian says with a laugh. “Don’t<br />
be scared of color.”—NOOR BRARA<br />
COURTESY OF JOHN DERIAN<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
“our heavy hitter<br />
strength & color<br />
now in more knockout<br />
shades!”<br />
our 1 st advanced 1-step strength & color<br />
• breathable formula with collagen<br />
and camellia extract<br />
• no base or top coat needed<br />
60% less<br />
peeling<br />
35% less<br />
breakage<br />
stronger nails<br />
in<br />
just<br />
1 week!<br />
Now, 26 knockout shades in all.<br />
#essielove<br />
explore more<br />
@ essie.com<br />
America’s nail<br />
salon expert.<br />
Since 1981.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
VLIFE<br />
Four floors above the sluggish crawl of Manhattan<br />
traffic, a bucolic scene is playing out across a sunlit<br />
conference room. Vintage gardening books<br />
and trowels fill a weathered bookshelf; burlap<br />
yardage topped with potted herbs and jars of<br />
tiny black seeds disguises a corporate table. The<br />
uniform isn’t so much suit-and-tie as plaid shirt, work boots,<br />
and two-day scruff. It’s enough to make a visitor in kitten-heel<br />
tuxedo shoes wonder if she’s overdressed.<br />
BEAUTY>86<br />
Ground<br />
Control<br />
A niche<br />
start-up<br />
championing<br />
sustainability<br />
grows<br />
withinthe<br />
world’s largest<br />
beauty<br />
company.<br />
STEM SELL<br />
SEED PHYTONUTRIENTS, A SKIN-AND-HAIR LINE FUNDED BY L’ORÉAL THAT<br />
ARRIVES THIS SPRING, USES ORGANIC, COLD-PRESSED OILS. AN ICE-CAKED<br />
SUNFLOWER, PHOTOGRAPHED BY BEN HASSETT, VOGUE, 2013.<br />
84 VOGUE FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong> BEAUTY<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
Give in to lash temptation.<br />
Our most addictive volume.<br />
Feels so soft. Looks so dense.<br />
NEW<br />
total<br />
temptationTM<br />
MASCARA<br />
Our formula glides<br />
on and builds with<br />
no overload.<br />
BEFORE<br />
AFTER<br />
Infused with<br />
coconut extract.<br />
SIMULATION OF ACTUAL PRODUCT RESULTS.<br />
Maybelline.com<br />
©<strong>2018</strong> Maybelline LLC.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
VLIFE<br />
“When you see me on my farm, this is me!” says Shane<br />
Wolf, a global general manager in L’Oréal’s hair-care division,<br />
explaining that his agrarian getup is not for show.<br />
Raised in rural Kansas, Wolf now shares a ten-acre plot<br />
near Doylestown, Pennsylvania, with his partner and a<br />
menagerie of “homeless, forlorn animals: horses, donkeys,<br />
goats, sheep, you name it.” The fact that he oversees a multimillion-dollar<br />
portfolio including Redken and Pureology<br />
is a testament to his ability to toggle<br />
between commerce and country life.<br />
It’s also what helped the 46-year-old<br />
persuade the Paris-based beauty<br />
titan to invest in a sustainabilityfocused<br />
line that brings Wolf’s farmborn<br />
ethos to the big leagues.<br />
This spring, L’Oréal will launch its<br />
first internally incubated niche brand: Seed Phytonutrients.<br />
At the heart of this sixteen-piece range for hair, face, and<br />
body are two cold-pressed organic oils—sunflower and<br />
camelina—chosen for their storehouse of antioxidants and<br />
resilience in the field. In a nod to the know-your-farmer<br />
movement, Seed has teamed up with a network of familyrun<br />
businesses, such as Barefoot Botanicals, whose herbalist<br />
founder, Linda Shanahan, harvests vitamin E–rich sunflower<br />
“Ididn’t want to just<br />
launch abrand. Iwanted to<br />
launch a movement”<br />
seeds not far from Wolf’s eight-person office in Doylestown.<br />
Direct sourcing means not only quality control—key when it<br />
comes to extracting oils—but also meaningful support: With<br />
L’Oréal’s backing, Seed fronts the payment for each harvest,<br />
freeing up day-to-day operations.<br />
This mom-and-pop model is redefining the relationship<br />
between small-batch makers and the mammoth beauty<br />
industry. “If I can trust the people behind the products,<br />
then I can feel good about the products,”<br />
Shanahan says. More to feel<br />
good about: Fully compostable postconsumer<br />
cardboard—mixed with<br />
chalk, a natural antimicrobial—makes<br />
up Seed’s water-resistant packaging.<br />
(The bottles are fitted with recyclable<br />
plastic liners and airless pumps to<br />
stabilize the food-grade preservatives.) Should minimalistdesign<br />
snobs raise eyebrows, Wolf has a quick rejoinder:<br />
“The aesthetic pitch is ‘If you care,’ ” he says, underscoring<br />
sustainability as the next hurdle for green cosmetics.<br />
But can a beauty line spark a renewed connection to nature,<br />
at the household level and the global one? Wolf and his<br />
team hope so. “I didn’t want to just launch a brand,” he says.<br />
“I wanted to launch a movement.”—LAURA REGENSDORF<br />
ALL EYES ON<br />
Letitia Wright<br />
To hear Letitia Wright tell it, playing a<br />
superhero isn’t all about invincibility. “We<br />
have a lot of vulnerabilities, too,” says the<br />
actress of her Black Panther character,<br />
Shuri, a princess blessed with impressive<br />
scientific and technological skills. “A lot<br />
of young people relate to her—she’s passionate about<br />
improving where she comes from,” adds Wright, 24, who<br />
was born in Guyana and raised in London. “I hope it can<br />
spark someone to say, ‘I’m not a superhero, but I can be<br />
a scientist or build the next spaceship, like Shuri.’ ” And<br />
while Wright, glimpsed earlier in the U.K. on Channel<br />
4’s Cucumber and E4’s Banana, a series that tackled<br />
LGBT issues, took lessons from each of the film’s strong<br />
female leads—Angela Bassett, Danai Gurira, and Lupita<br />
Nyong’o—her obsession with a dress unleashed a new<br />
side of the actress. “I was on set fighting for it,” says<br />
Wright, laughing, of the futuristic, body-skimming white<br />
dress that Shuri dons alongside the film’s title character<br />
(played by Chadwick Boseman). Though Wright has<br />
favored boyish suiting for previous red carpets, lately<br />
she’s developed a preference for Burberry—“Sorry, I’m<br />
British,” she says, clearly not sorry. Prada, meanwhile,<br />
has been giving her confidence for the busy season<br />
ahead, which will see Wright reprising Shuri in Avengers:<br />
Infinity War. “The strength comes from knowing what<br />
works well. That shines through.”—EDWARD BARSAMIAN<br />
THE OTHER WONDER WOMAN<br />
THE ACTRESS, WEARING ALTUZARRA,<br />
PHOTOGRAPHED IN LONDON IN 2016.<br />
EVENING STANDARD/EYEVINE/REDUX<br />
VOGUE.COM<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
Discover a new take on nude.<br />
Un-expected. Un-conventional.<br />
Up to 16hr liquid matte.<br />
NEW<br />
SUPER STAY<br />
MATTE<br />
INK<br />
UN NUDE<br />
High-intensity ink formula in 10 NEW intense shades.<br />
Apply & let dry; wear up to 16 hours.<br />
Maybelline.com<br />
Gigi is wearing New Super Stay Matte Ink Un-Nude in Huntress.<br />
©<strong>2018</strong> Maybelline LLC.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
VLIFE<br />
ART STARS<br />
DESIGNERS JACK<br />
MCCOLLOUGH<br />
(LEFT) AND LAZARO<br />
HERNANDEZ. FAR<br />
RIGHT: NANCY<br />
HOLT’S LAND-ART<br />
INSTALLATION SUN<br />
TUNNELS, 1973–76.<br />
BEAUTY<br />
FAMILIAR TERRITORY<br />
ABOVE: THE TERRAIN THAT<br />
BEGOT A FRAGRANCE. GEORGIA<br />
O’KEEFFE’S BLACK MESA<br />
LANDSCAPE, NEW MEXICO/OUT<br />
BACK OF MARIE’S II, 1930.<br />
CRYSTAL VISION<br />
INSPIRATION FOR ARIZONA’S BOTTLE (RIGHT)<br />
CAME FROM ORGANIC SHAPES, SUCH<br />
AS NATURALLY OCCURRING GEODES AND A 2015<br />
SCULPTURE BY AILI SCHMELTZ (ABOVE).<br />
88 VOGUE FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong><br />
Great<br />
Escape<br />
ProenzaSchouler’s<br />
debut fragrance follows<br />
ascent trail through<br />
the Americandesert.<br />
Shortly after their spring 2016<br />
show, Proenza Schouler’s<br />
Jack McCollough and Lazaro<br />
Hernandez headed west,<br />
first to Texas, then to New<br />
Mexico, Utah, and Arizona, where<br />
they drove with a trunk full of camping<br />
gear and an itinerary heavy on land<br />
art. “We’re always looking outside of<br />
fashion to bring different ideas into<br />
what we do,” McCollough says of<br />
Nancy Holt’s Sun Tunnels and Walter<br />
De Maria’s Lightning Field, which inspired<br />
the road trip.<br />
Intended as a post-collection break<br />
to recharge and refuel, their canyonlands<br />
adventure took an unexpected<br />
turn. “Our phones stopped working,”<br />
McCullough recalls, freeing them up to<br />
comb through roadside crystal stands<br />
and really, truly disconnect.<br />
The experience worked its way into<br />
the designers’ first fragrance, nearly<br />
two and a half years in the making.<br />
Called Arizona, it’s not a literal homage.<br />
“It’s really less about the state<br />
and more about the state of mind,”<br />
Hernandez explains, which is helped<br />
along by the mineral quality of nightblooming<br />
cactus flowers BEAUTY>90<br />
VOGUE.COM<br />
PORTRAIT: CASS BIRD. HOLT: NANCY HOLT. SUN TUNNELS, 1973–76. GREAT BASIN DESERT, UTAH. CONCRETE, STEEL, EARTH. OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 9′2½″ X 68′6″ X 53′. LENGTH<br />
ON THE DIAGONAL: 86′. EACH TUNNEL: L. 18′ X DIAM. 9′2½″. © HOLT-SMITHSON FOUNDATION/LICENSED BY VAGA, NEW YORK, NY. DETAILS, SEE IN THIS ISSUE.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
Gentle IS THE NEW STRONG<br />
The modern way to gently cleanse and condition. Lightweight Micellar formula, now paired<br />
with the power of Pro-V Nutrient Blends to transform fragile hair into strands of strength.<br />
©<strong>2018</strong> P&G<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
VLIFE<br />
and a rich, powdery orris-root accord.<br />
These two notes are equally rare and<br />
distinct: Sourced from sweet iris, orris<br />
is one of the oldest and most expensive<br />
raw materials in perfumery, while the<br />
cactus’s white blossoms, which perfumers<br />
Carlos Benaïm and Loc Dong had<br />
never before used in scent creation, reveal<br />
themselves only once a year. To<br />
capture their distinct aroma without<br />
disrupting their natural environment,<br />
the two men grew these succulents in<br />
a New Jersey greenhouse and hovered<br />
over them, patiently.<br />
Combining innovation and oldworld<br />
traditions is an ambitious concept<br />
for a debut fragrance, especially<br />
one from self-proclaimed “newbies.”<br />
But McCollough and Hernandez were<br />
willing pupils of Benaïm and Dong,<br />
who gave them an olfactory history<br />
lesson from the Elizabethan era to the<br />
present. “What I found most interesting<br />
was that each of our modern decades<br />
was so clearly defined by a scent spirit,”<br />
says Hernandez, referencing the big<br />
and loud eighties, the clean and minimal<br />
nineties, and what he describes as<br />
the “edible floral” movement that has<br />
categorized the aughts. The designers’<br />
challenge: to create something that felt<br />
relevant to the culture now, which they<br />
pinpointed as a search for escape from<br />
information overload.<br />
More important, however, was to recognize<br />
what’s no longer relevant: specifically,<br />
what McCollough and Hernandez<br />
call the “power gown” aesthetic of opulence<br />
and overt sexuality that has long<br />
been used to create and sell fragrance.<br />
This feels particularly off-base to the<br />
women they know—perennial cool girls<br />
such as actress Chloë Sevigny—and the<br />
women they design for.<br />
“We’ve done eight collections in the<br />
time it’s taken to create this one bottle<br />
of fragrance,” McCollough says of<br />
the peculiarity of producing something<br />
that stays true to a single idea<br />
while somehow transcending trends.<br />
In the Proenza Schouler vernacular,<br />
timelessness is ultimately tied to a certain<br />
casualness in the face of technical<br />
sophistication. “I guess it’s an undoneness,”<br />
Hernandez elaborates, describing<br />
the meeting point of originality,<br />
ease, and elegant craftsmanship where<br />
Arizona awaits.—CELIA ELLENBERG<br />
WILD<br />
AT HEART<br />
ABOVE:<br />
VERONIKA<br />
HEILBRUNNER<br />
IN A MIU MIU<br />
FAUX-FUR COAT.<br />
RIGHT: HOUSE<br />
OF FLUFF<br />
COAT, $990;<br />
NET-A-PORTER<br />
.COM.<br />
FASHION<br />
Fake News<br />
K<br />
ym Canter, let it be known, liked fur coats—enough to<br />
own 26 of them, if we’re being exact. In May, though, the<br />
former creative director of J. Mendel did something pretty<br />
major: She sold her collection to fund a new line of entirely<br />
sustainable, enviably cool faux furs, called House of Fluff.<br />
“I felt incredibly glam in my furs, but they didn’t match my<br />
ethics and lifestyle,” Canter says from her studio on Great Jones<br />
Street in downtown Manhattan. “And there was certainly no way<br />
I could be seen riding the subway in one.” Now Canter—along with<br />
former J. Mendel design director Alex Dymek—is churning out<br />
plush, feel-it-to-believe-it bombers, yeti-esque hoodies, and Kate<br />
Moss–ian leopard coats in faux furs that rival the real thing.<br />
It’s a timely and well-thought-out move that puts Canter in good<br />
company with the likes of Gucci, which recently went entirely furfree,<br />
as well as with people such as Oprah, who’s been encouraged<br />
by the brand’s eco-friendly, zero-waste mission of natural dyes and<br />
recycled hangers. What this means: In addition to 100 percent chic,<br />
you can now feel 100 percent guilt-free, whether you’re coming<br />
from barre class or walking into a black-tie gala.—RACHEL WALDMAN<br />
HEILBRUNNER: SANDRA SEMBURG. STILL LIFE: LIAM GOODMAN.<br />
90<br />
VOGUE FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong> VOGUE.COM<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
DEPARTING<br />
from your front door<br />
BEST AIRLINE IN THE WORLD<br />
Enjoy our complimentary First and Business Class Chauffeur Drive Service to and<br />
from the airport in over 70 * cities around the world.<br />
Hello Tomorrow<br />
Available for First and Business Class passengers.<br />
*Conditions apply. Visit emirates.com/us for more information.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
VLIFE<br />
BOOKS<br />
LOVE<br />
STORY<br />
<strong>February</strong>’s<br />
best books<br />
examine<br />
romance<br />
andits many<br />
illusions.<br />
The Heart<br />
Is a Shifting<br />
Sea: Love<br />
and Marriage<br />
in Mumbai<br />
The three real-life<br />
couples in journalist<br />
Elizabeth Flock’s The<br />
Heart Is a Shifting Sea:<br />
Love and Marriage<br />
in Mumbai (Harper),<br />
a fascinatingly<br />
intimate study of<br />
India’s progressive<br />
new generation,<br />
illuminate the distance<br />
between our romantic<br />
imaginings and reality.<br />
SEALED WITH A KISS<br />
MODELS NALEYE JUNIOR AND IMAAN HAMMAM, PHOTOGRAPHED<br />
BY MERT ALAS AND MARCUS PIGGOTT FOR VOGUE, 2016.<br />
The Ghost<br />
Notebooks<br />
A missing fiancée<br />
and a haunted<br />
house in the Hudson<br />
Valley are at the<br />
enigmatic center of<br />
Ben Dolnick’s<br />
The Ghost Notebooks<br />
(Pantheon), but<br />
the real mystery is<br />
how well we know<br />
those closest to us.<br />
The Friend<br />
In Sigrid Nunez’s<br />
The Friend<br />
(Riverhead),<br />
a180-pound Great<br />
Dane named<br />
Apollo becomes<br />
an unexpectedly<br />
sympathetic<br />
companion for a<br />
New York writing<br />
professor, a wry riff<br />
on Rilke’s idea of<br />
love as two solitudes<br />
that “protect and<br />
border and greet<br />
each other.”<br />
Song of a<br />
Captive Bird<br />
Sometimes,<br />
simply choosing<br />
whom to love is<br />
a political act, as in<br />
memoirist Jasmin<br />
Darznik’s first novel,<br />
Song of a Captive<br />
Bird (Ballantine),<br />
a historical fiction<br />
based on the life<br />
of the Persian feminist<br />
poet and filmmaker<br />
Forugh Farrokhzad.<br />
Straying<br />
“I had always<br />
imagined adultery<br />
would feel shadowy<br />
and whispered . . .<br />
but what it felt like<br />
was being always on<br />
the run,” thinks the<br />
young American wife<br />
in Molly McCloskey’s<br />
Ireland-before-theboom<br />
novel Straying<br />
(Scribner), a memoirvivid<br />
portrait of<br />
a vertiginous affair.<br />
THE HEART IS A SHIFTING SEA: © 2017 HARPERCOLLINS PUBLISHERS. STRAYING: © 2017 SIMON & SCHUSTER, INC. ALL OTHERS: © 2017 PENGUIN RANDOM HOUSE.<br />
92<br />
VOGUE FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong><br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
PAY THE INTERN<br />
FOR LUNCH<br />
HE’LL THANK<br />
YOU A BUNCH<br />
LOOK FOR ZELLE ® IN YOUR BANKING APP<br />
OR VISIT ZELLEPAY.COM<br />
Terms and conditions apply. Learn more at zellepay.com. Zelle and the Zelle marks are property of Early Warning Services, LLC.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
VLIFE<br />
HAIR<br />
HEAD START<br />
Tapping into the same active botanicals found in its cult-favorite<br />
skin-care line, Sisley gets into the hair game.<br />
My grandmother used to wash her hair with<br />
eggs,” reveals Christine d’Ornano, daughter<br />
of the late Hubert, who acquired Sisley<br />
in 1976. And she reaped the benefits of all<br />
that cracking and whisking<br />
with decades of glistening, waist-length chestnut<br />
strands, d’Ornano insists. Sisley is better<br />
known the world over for its plant-based skin<br />
care, including a coveted black rose face mask<br />
that is a status symbol on vanities everywhere.<br />
But it was only a matter of time before the<br />
family-owned French company focused its<br />
expertise in phyto-cosmetology above the forehead.<br />
“The hair follicle ages just as skin ages,”<br />
says d’Ornano, noting that many of the same<br />
ingredients in her facial tinctures–fortifying<br />
peptides, restorative ceramides, and nourishing<br />
oils—found their way into Sisley’s new,<br />
six-piece Hair Rituel collection, out this month. The sulfatefree<br />
line is meant to function as a complete system: The<br />
camellia oil and mineral–laced volumizing shampoo and<br />
regenerative mask are easily followed by a fortifying serum<br />
that uses rice proteins to stimulate hair-follicle<br />
stem cells for growth (and smells faintly of the<br />
verdant Loire countryside where d’Ornano<br />
often hikes with her family). On a recent testdrive<br />
at the Yves Durif salon at The Carlyle<br />
in New York, it was the antioxidant-rich Precious<br />
Hair Care Oil, which can be patted on<br />
dry or damp lengths, that was the standout.<br />
It lends a subtle touch of glossy shine, no egg<br />
required.—KARI MOLVAR<br />
MANE EVENT<br />
WITH A REGENERATIVE MASK AND A NOURISHING OIL,<br />
THE NEW RANGE TREATS DEPLETED STRANDS WITH A NOD<br />
TO COMPLEXION CARE. ABOVE: MODEL FREDERIKKE<br />
SOFIE, PHOTOGRAPHED BY THEO WENNER, VOGUE, 2017.<br />
PRODUCTS: COURTESY OF THE BRAND<br />
94<br />
VOGUE FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong><br />
VOGUE.COM<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
Drench your skin in the new wave of super hydration.<br />
Neutrogena ® Hydro Boost Water Gel<br />
and now, new Hydrating Cleansing Gel<br />
Nothing does more for thirsty skin than hydration.<br />
That’s why our clinically proven formulas lock in<br />
hydration with hyaluronic acid. This advanced<br />
ingredient holds up to 1000X its weight in water.<br />
Skin is so supple and hydrated, it bounces back.<br />
See what’s possible.<br />
Learn more at neutrogena.com/hydroboost<br />
©J&JCI 2017<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
VLIFE<br />
RITA ORA<br />
IN ESTEBAN<br />
CORTAZAR.<br />
New popprints<br />
areinspiredby<br />
thecanvasesof<br />
Haring,Hockney,<br />
and Warhol.<br />
ELLE<br />
FANNING<br />
IN VERSACE.<br />
TREND<br />
Modern<br />
Art<br />
ZENDAYA<br />
IN MARIA<br />
ESCOTÉ<br />
AND NIKE<br />
X OFF-<br />
WHITE.<br />
THEATER<br />
Fit to Kill<br />
It wrote itself quickly,” Martin<br />
McDonagh says of his wickedly<br />
funny new play, Hangmen, which<br />
this month marks his long-awaited<br />
return to the New York stage.<br />
Most recently, the playwright-author<br />
was responsible for the terrific film Three<br />
Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri, but<br />
it’s been eight years since his last U.S.<br />
premiere. From its opening scene, Hangmen<br />
(fittingly) grabs you by the throat and<br />
never lets go, with its signature mix of<br />
mounting dread and gallows humor. Set<br />
in 1965, just after the abolition of capital<br />
punishment in England, it takes place<br />
mostly in a northern pub owned by Harry<br />
Wade (Mark Addy), once one of the<br />
country’s most famous hangmen and now<br />
a vainglorious prig who bullies his ginguzzling<br />
wife and their shy teenage daughter.<br />
The arrival of a suave, mysterious<br />
stranger (Johnny Flynn, in a starmaking<br />
performance) sets events in motion, leading<br />
to the disappearance of Harry’s daughter,<br />
the possibility of an unspeakable crime,<br />
and a reckoning with the past. McDonagh,<br />
who acknowledges the influence of Harold<br />
Pinter and Joe Orton, both of whom were<br />
shaking up English theater during the era<br />
in which Hangmen is set, wanted to explore,<br />
obliquely, the political issues of the<br />
time. “The idea of the state putting people<br />
to death, and how that would affect the<br />
person who carries out the sentences—it<br />
just seemed like a grim enough story for an<br />
outright comedy.”—ADAM GREEN<br />
ORA: SPLASH NEWS. FANNING: DONATO SARDELLA/GETTY IMAGES. ZENDAYA: FELIPE RAMALES/SPLASH NEWS. THEATER: COURTESY OF ATLANTIC THEATER COMPANY.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
Masters of Ceremony<br />
For all the iterations of red-carpet razzle, there will always be a reliably photogenic set of beauty<br />
looks, from full-volume hair to power lips. Here, a look at these icons of glamour.<br />
SPONSORED BY<br />
RED CARPET<br />
BEAUTY<br />
making WAVES<br />
Hot-rolled, disco-feathered, va-vavoomed<br />
to the max: Bombshell waves<br />
continue to reign when it comes to<br />
leading-lady chic. Whether it’s for<br />
an industry newcomer’s debut (both<br />
Meryl Streep and Marion Cotillard<br />
sported cascading barrel curls for their<br />
first Oscar nominations), a megawatt<br />
model cameo at the Academy Awards<br />
(Cindy Crawford in a plunging red<br />
Versace dress), or a chart-topping<br />
hitmaker such as Diana Ross cranking<br />
up the volume with sideswept<br />
savoir faire, a crown of face-framing<br />
waves has a way of channeling old<br />
Hollywood and new. Staying power<br />
via styling products is essential—the<br />
parties beckon—but so is pliability:<br />
The classic over-the-shoulder<br />
hair toss is catnip for the flashbulbs.<br />
CLOCKWISE FROM<br />
FAR LEFT: CINDY<br />
CRAWFORD, 1991. MERYL<br />
STREEP, 1979. DIANA<br />
ROSS, 1981. MARION<br />
COTILLARD, 2008.<br />
BELOW, FROM LEFT:<br />
L’ORÉAL PARIS ELNETT<br />
SATIN HAIRSPRAY.<br />
DAVID MALLETT MASK<br />
NO.2 LE VOLUME.<br />
CRAWFORD: JIM SMEAL/GETTY IMAGES. STREEP: BETTMANN/GETTY IMAGES. ROSS: RON GALELLA/GETTY<br />
IMAGES. COTILLARD: FRAZER HARRISON/GETTY IMAGES. PRODUCTS: COURTESY OF L’ORÉAL PARIS.<br />
98<br />
VOGUE FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong><br />
VOGUE.COM<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
RED CARPET<br />
BEAUTY<br />
In matters of makeup, it’s little wonder<br />
that lip shades bold enough to<br />
rival the red carpet itself have held<br />
sway since the dawn of cinema.<br />
From a 1950s-era Grace Kelly in<br />
brick-rose to a statuesque Anjelica<br />
Huston in lacquered ruby to Ruth<br />
Negga in deep crimson to match her<br />
lace-embellished Valentino dress, the<br />
statement mouth packs a perennial<br />
punch—which means the rest of the<br />
face can stay refreshingly minimal.<br />
(Longwear lipstick formulas, along<br />
with a stashed-away bullet for touchups<br />
throughout the evening, are key.)<br />
That punctuation mark on the lips<br />
has a way of communicating timeless<br />
sophistication—and is a feat of<br />
wordless expression, whether or not<br />
an acceptance speech is in the cards.<br />
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP<br />
LEFT: RUTH NEGGA, 2017.<br />
MICHELLE WILLIAMS, 2006.<br />
ANJELICA HUSTON, 1986.<br />
JENNIFER LAWRENCE,<br />
2015. GRACE KELLY, 1955.<br />
BELOW RIGHT: FENTY<br />
BEAUTY BY RIHANNA<br />
STUNNA LIP PAINT<br />
LONGWEAR FLUID LIP<br />
COLOR IN UNCENSORED.<br />
MOUTHING off<br />
NEGGA: LESTER COHEN/GETTY IMAGES. WILLIAMS: MATT BARON/BEI/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK. HUSTON: © GLOBE PHOTOS/ZUMAPRESS.<br />
COM. LAWRENCE: KARWAI TANG/GETTY IMAGES. KELLY: MPTVIMAGES.COM. PRODUCTS: COURTESY OF L’ORÉAL PARIS.<br />
100<br />
VOGUE FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong><br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
©<strong>2018</strong> L’Oréal <strong>USA</strong>, Inc.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
RED CARPET<br />
BEAUTY<br />
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP<br />
LEFT: CATE BLANCHETT,<br />
2000. PENÉLOPE CRUZ,<br />
2000. RINKO KIKUCHI, 2007.<br />
ALICIA VIKANDER, 2017.<br />
LAUREN HUTTON, 1975.<br />
BELOW, FROM LEFT: L’ORÉAL<br />
PARIS TRUE MATCH LUMI<br />
GLOTION. LILAH B. GLISTEN<br />
& GLOW SKIN ILLUMINATOR.<br />
going for GLOW<br />
When you’re tasked with styling the perfect camera-ready ensemble,<br />
is there any accessory that tops supernaturally lustrous skin?<br />
Lauren Hutton breezed into the 1975 Academy Awards, pairing<br />
a cotton-candy dress with a tawny, incandescent complexion that<br />
qualifies as eternal #inspo. Fast-forward to the present, and a strategic<br />
swath of burnished skin—such as Alicia Vikander’s seemingly<br />
spotlit décolletage—is still an awards-show mainstay,<br />
thanks to the current vogue for eveningwear that<br />
projects understated polish and modern confidence.<br />
(A dramatically revealed back on Cate<br />
Blanchett, bare except for gilded ornaments, takes<br />
that impulse to the next level.) As for achieving<br />
ethereality? A generous slick of moisturizer, fol-<br />
BLANCHETT: JEFF KRAVITZ/GETTY IMAGES. CRUZ: MIREK TOWSKI/DMI/THE LIFE PICTURE COLLECTION/GETTY IMAGES. KIKUCHI: DAN MACMEDAN/GETTY<br />
IMAGES. VIKANDER: CHRISTOPHER POLK/GETTY IMAGES. HUTTON: GARY LEWIS/CAMERA PRESS/REDUX. PRODUCTS: COURTESY OF L’ORÉAL PARIS.<br />
104<br />
VOGUE FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong><br />
VOGUE.COM<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
SPRAY AWAY GRAY LIKE MAGIC<br />
Eva Longoria<br />
MAGIC ROOT COVER UP<br />
3 SECONDS TO FLAWLESS ROOTS<br />
RE<br />
■ QUICK AND EASY GRAY COVERAGE<br />
■ LIGHTWEIGHT, QUICK-DRY FORMULA<br />
NO RESIDUE OR STICKINESS<br />
■ LASTS UNTIL YOUR NEXT SHAMPOO<br />
■ NOW IN 8 SHADES<br />
AFTER<br />
BECAUSE YOU’RE WORTH IT.<br />
SIMULATION<br />
Earn rewards. Join now at:<br />
lorealparisusa.com/worthitrewards<br />
©<strong>2018</strong> L’Oréal <strong>USA</strong>, Inc.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
Love is in the air.<br />
The perfect Valentine’s Day gift<br />
At the heart of the Dyson Supersonic hair dryer is<br />
the Dyson digital motor V9, producing a jet of focused<br />
air, designed for fast drying and controlled styling.<br />
Fastest digital motor.<br />
Designed for fast drying.<br />
dyson.com<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
<strong>February</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />
At a time of year when we’ve got love on<br />
our minds, we thought it worthwhile to look beyond<br />
the HEARTS AND FLOWERS at what’s behind<br />
this emotional pull. More than ever, we’re all seeking<br />
CONNECTION with the world—and as we’re<br />
discovering more and more with each passing day,<br />
FAMILY means more than simply genetics.<br />
It’s about whom we’ve chosen to SPEND OUR TIME<br />
WITH, and why. There are as many ways to express<br />
this as there are ways to express your individuality: It’s<br />
about who’s advancing a forward-thinking way of life,<br />
from people CHANGING THE WORLD around<br />
them for the better to a model mom—or a Grand Slam<br />
mom. What’s not to LOVE about that?<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
L O V E A L L<br />
A baby. Amedical ordeal. Awedding. Acomeback?<br />
Serena Williams opens up to Rob Haskell about how profoundly herlife<br />
has changed.And how badly she wants that 25th GrandSlam.<br />
Photographed by Mario Testino.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
OH, BABY!<br />
Alexis Olympia Ohanian Jr. was<br />
born on September 1, 2017. “We’re<br />
not spending a day apart until she’s<br />
eighteen,” Serena says, only halfjoking.<br />
Serena wears a Valentino<br />
dress and Irene Neuwirth bracelet.<br />
Fashion Editor: Tonne Goodman.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
On a moist South Florida morning at the end of a relentless<br />
hurricane season, their wedding only a week away, Serena<br />
Williams and Alexis Ohanian are seated side by side at<br />
their long kitchen table discussing the Marshmallow Test.<br />
Some 50 years ago, in a famous experiment, the Stanford<br />
University psychologist Walter Mischel invited children to<br />
choose between a small immediate reward, such as a marshmallow,<br />
or, if they could sit and wait for fifteen minutes,<br />
a larger prize. The children who found<br />
ways to stave off temptation—by singing<br />
songs or pulling pigtails—went on to<br />
have higher SAT scores and lower bodymass<br />
indexes than their ravenous peers.<br />
“I would have eaten that marshmallow,”<br />
says Serena, who, in conspicuous<br />
contrast to that image, sips a radioactivelooking<br />
broth, which she nudged her<br />
chef to prepare after reading online that<br />
ginger and turmeric were supposed to<br />
aid in breast-milk production. She positions<br />
this tincture on a stack of gold<br />
lamé swatches: Golden Harvest, Gold<br />
L’Amour, Golden Daydream, Victorian<br />
Gold. One of these will be selected for<br />
the tablecloths at the wedding dinner.<br />
Thinking better of her coaster choice,<br />
she shifts her glass to a stack of photocopied<br />
pages from assorted newborn instruction manuals.<br />
Serena loves printing and collating and stacking. She loves<br />
paper. She is the analog to her husband-to-be’s digital.<br />
“Are you kidding?” Alexis shoots back. “You would<br />
never eat that marshmallow. You would stare down that<br />
marshmallow like it was the enemy. It would be Serena<br />
versus the marshmallow.”<br />
“You’re right,” she admits with a squeak of laughter. “But<br />
it would have been fear. I would have been scared to eat it. I<br />
would have been like, Am I supposed to eat this? Am I going<br />
to get in trouble if I eat this?”<br />
“Ilookatmy<br />
baby,and<br />
Irememberthat<br />
thiswasone<br />
ofmygoalsbefore<br />
tennistookover,<br />
whenIwas<br />
stillkindofanormal<br />
girlwhoplayed<br />
withdolls”<br />
It’s no secret that a high capacity to delay gratification—to<br />
place discipline and self-sacrifice in the service of a dream<br />
that shimmers in the distance like a mirage—is among the<br />
distinguishing characteristics of the elite athlete. Serena<br />
is a special case, of course, an athlete whose unique gifts<br />
fused with years of hard work to produce an avalanche of<br />
victories—more, she swears, than she ever dreamed of as a<br />
braided nine-year-old captured uncomfortably in the pages<br />
of her local newspaper. A more painful vision of reality has<br />
also encroached over the years: the drive-by murder of her<br />
older sister Yetunde Price, in 2003; a slip on a piece of broken<br />
glass at a Munich restaurant that led to pulmonary embolisms,<br />
which in turn led to a year on the sidelines (and then,<br />
somehow, after age 30, the five most brilliant seasons of her<br />
career). One gratification she always knew she’d be keeping<br />
on the back burner was motherhood. But on September 1,<br />
Alexis Olympia Ohanian Jr. arrived. Serena calls her Olympia.<br />
Alexis prefers Junior.<br />
Months earlier, when she was pregnant, Serena had confessed<br />
to me that she worried intensely about whether she’d<br />
make a good mother. She is a perfectionist, she is rule-bound<br />
(“Am I allowed to eat that marshmallow?”), and her longtime<br />
fans know that her fiery self-belief is sometimes undercut<br />
with self-doubt; in fact, that tension is part of what makes a<br />
Serena Williams match such nail-biting entertainment. Two<br />
rather harrowing months after giving birth, though, Mother<br />
has her sea legs—just in time to get those legs back onto the<br />
tennis court. From her new vantage point, Olympia is both<br />
irresistible temptation and ultimate reality check.<br />
“We’re not spending a day apart until she’s eighteen,”<br />
Serena says, only half-joking. “Now that I’m 36 and I look<br />
at my baby, I remember that this was also<br />
one of my goals when I was little, before<br />
tennis took over, when I was still kind of a<br />
normal girl who played with dolls. Oh, my<br />
God, I loved my dolls.” She breaks into<br />
the jingle for Baby Alive, the doll with an<br />
eerie array of lifelike bodily functions: “I<br />
love the way you make me feel,” she croons<br />
in a cracking falsetto. “You’re so real.”<br />
Serena named her Baby Alive Victoria,<br />
drawn even then to triumphal monikers.<br />
Suddenly, shrieking with laughter, she’s<br />
on YouTube watching eighties TV commercials<br />
in which little girls in soft focus<br />
change their dolls’ wet diapers.<br />
“To be honest, there’s something really<br />
attractive about the idea of moving to<br />
San Francisco and just being a mom,”<br />
she says. Reddit, the news aggregator of<br />
which Alexis is a cofounder, is based there, and they’ve just<br />
found a house in Silicon Valley. “But not yet. Maybe this goes<br />
without saying, but it needs to be said in a powerful way: I<br />
absolutely want more Grand Slams. I’m well aware of the<br />
record books, unfortunately. It’s not a secret that I have my<br />
sights on 25.” She means 25 Grand Slam victories, which<br />
would surpass the record of 24 held by the Australian tennis<br />
legend Margaret Court and make her the undisputed greatest<br />
of all time. (Serena, already widely regarded as the best there<br />
ever was, currently owns 23.) “And actually, I think having a<br />
baby might help. When I’m too anxious I lose matches, and I<br />
110<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
feel like a lot of that anxiety disappeared when Olympia was<br />
born. Knowing I’ve got this beautiful baby to go home to<br />
makes me feel like I don’t have to play another match. I don’t<br />
need the money or the titles or the prestige. I want them, but<br />
I don’t need them. That’s a different feeling for me.”<br />
Serena changes into leggings and a T-shirt, and we walk<br />
over to the manicured red clay tennis court belonging to<br />
a neighbor, hers whenever she wants it. It’s only the third<br />
time she’s picked up a racket since giving birth. Her father,<br />
Richard Williams, drops by to have a look and to offer a<br />
pointer or two. Get your racket back earlier, he advises.<br />
Alexis has brought his drone, which sounds like a swarm<br />
of bees as it whirs above the court grabbing video footage<br />
of the champion and her hitting partner. (“Serena doesn’t<br />
dwell on this stuff, but I’m making a point to document<br />
it all,” he explains.) She’s not serving yet, and there’s no<br />
split-step as she prepares for another ground stroke, but<br />
the shots hiss into the corners, and she’s pleased. Just a<br />
week earlier, Serena walked the length of a<br />
neighborhood block for the first time since<br />
returning from the hospital.<br />
Though she had an enviably easy pregnancy,<br />
what followed was the greatest medical<br />
ordeal of a life that has been punctuated<br />
by them. Olympia was born by emergency<br />
C-section after her heart rate dove dangerously<br />
low during contractions. The surgery<br />
went off without a hitch; Alexis cut the<br />
cord, and the wailing newborn fell silent the<br />
moment she was laid on her mother’s chest.<br />
“That was an amazing feeling,” Serena remembers.<br />
“And then everything went bad.”<br />
The next day, while recovering in the hospital,<br />
Serena suddenly felt short of breath.<br />
Because of her history of blood clots, and because she was<br />
off her daily anticoagulant regimen due to the recent surgery,<br />
she immediately assumed she was having another pulmonary<br />
embolism. (Serena lives in fear of blood clots.) She walked<br />
out of the hospital room so her mother wouldn’t worry and<br />
told the nearest nurse, between gasps, that she needed a CT<br />
scan with contrast and IV heparin (a blood thinner) right<br />
away. The nurse thought her pain medicine might be making<br />
her confused. But Serena insisted, and soon enough a doctor<br />
was performing an ultrasound of her legs. “I was like, a<br />
Doppler? I told you, I need a CT scan and a heparin drip,” she<br />
remembers telling the team. The ultrasound revealed nothing,<br />
so they sent her for the CT, and sure enough, several small<br />
blood clots had settled in her lungs. Minutes later she was on<br />
the drip. “I was like, listen to Dr. Williams!”<br />
But this was just the first chapter of a six-day drama. Her<br />
fresh C-section wound popped open from the intense coughing<br />
spells caused by the pulmonary embolism, and when<br />
she returned to surgery, they found that a large hematoma<br />
had flooded her abdomen, the result of a medical catch-22<br />
in which the potentially lifesaving blood thinner caused<br />
hemorrhaging at the site of her C-section. She returned yet<br />
again to the OR to have a filter inserted into a major vein,<br />
in order to prevent more clots from dislodging and traveling<br />
into her lungs. Serena came home a week later only to find<br />
that the night nurse had fallen through, and she spent the<br />
first six weeks of motherhood unable to get out of bed. “I<br />
“Maybe<br />
thisgoes without<br />
saying,but<br />
itneedstobesaid<br />
inapowerful<br />
way: Iabsolutely<br />
wantmore<br />
Grand Slams”<br />
was happy to change diapers,” Alexis says, “but on top of<br />
everything she was going through, the feeling of not being<br />
able to help made it even harder. Consider for a moment that<br />
your body is one of the greatest things on this planet, and<br />
you’re trapped in it.”<br />
The first couple of months of motherhood have tested<br />
Serena in ways she never imagined. “Sometimes I get really<br />
down and feel like, Man, I can’t do this,” she says. “It’s that<br />
same negative attitude I have on the court sometimes. I<br />
guess that’s just who I am. No one talks about the low moments—the<br />
pressure you feel, the incredible letdown every<br />
time you hear the baby cry. I’ve broken down I don’t know<br />
how many times. Or I’ll get angry about the crying, then sad<br />
about being angry, and then guilty, like, Why do I feel so sad<br />
when I have a beautiful baby? The emotions are insane.”<br />
Her mother, Oracene Price, has been staying in Florida to<br />
help out. She has encouraged Serena to relax around her<br />
daughter and is making the case for a strict parenting style<br />
in an era in which children often have the<br />
last word. “Obedience brings protection;<br />
that’s what my mom told me,” Serena says.<br />
“That’s straight from the Bible, and she<br />
wrote it down on paper and gave it to me. I<br />
was always obedient: Whatever my parents<br />
told me to do, I did. There was no discussion.<br />
Maybe I had a little rebellious phase in<br />
my 20s, when I tried liquor for the first time.<br />
Maybe having a baby on the tennis tour is<br />
the most rebellious thing I could ever do.”<br />
Oracene says that she mainly bites her<br />
tongue, that daughters don’t tend to respond<br />
well to parenting advice from their<br />
own moms. Her primary concern right now<br />
is that Serena find a healthy equilibrium.<br />
“Serena works herself too hard,” Oracene explains. “She’s always<br />
been that way, ever since she was a little girl. She’s going<br />
to need to learn to slow down. She’s responsible for another<br />
life now. You should see how they travel with that baby. They<br />
pack everything! It’s a bit extravagant for me. But once she’s<br />
back on the tour, she’ll find a balance.”<br />
Her tennis friends have been broadly supportive, especially<br />
the dads. Stanislas Wawrinka gave Olympia a pair of tiny<br />
blue Tod’s driving loafers, and Novak Djokovic continues<br />
to send articles in accordance with his everything-natural<br />
philosophy. Serena and Novak call their babies doubles<br />
partners since they were born a day apart. Roger Federer,<br />
in some respects her only real rival on the tour—the person<br />
she’s always sought to keep pace with, the person she refuses<br />
to retire before—now has two sets of twins. “It’s so unfair,”<br />
Serena complains. “He produced four babies and barely<br />
missed a tournament. I can’t even imagine where I’d be with<br />
twins right now. Probably at the bottom of the pool.”<br />
Facebook’s Sheryl Sandberg is a longtime hero of Serena’s,<br />
and in the last year she has offered invaluable advice<br />
about marriage and motherhood. The two met years ago<br />
after Serena, in an interview, was asked to name someone<br />
she’d like to have dinner with and chose Sandberg. “I saw<br />
that, and I called her and said, ‘I’d love to have dinner with<br />
you!’ ” Sandberg recalls. They did not become close until after<br />
Sandberg’s husband, Dave Goldberg, died unexpectedly<br />
in 2015. “Serena really stepped up. I’d get texts and emails<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
111
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
FAMILY TIES<br />
The women in<br />
Serena’s life:<br />
CLOCKWISE FROM<br />
TOP LEFT, half-sister<br />
Isha Price (in Brooks<br />
Brothers); sister<br />
Venus Williams (in<br />
J.Crew); her mother,<br />
Oracene Price (in<br />
Derek Rose); Serena<br />
(in J.Crew) and<br />
Olympia; and halfsister<br />
Lyndrea Price<br />
(in Brooks Brothers).<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
113<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
from her from all over the world telling me how strong I was<br />
at a time when I didn’t feel strong. She had experienced loss<br />
in her own life, and I think she knew what to do.”<br />
Many of her friends from women’s tennis—Caroline<br />
Wozniacki, Svetlana Kuznetsova, Angelique Kerber—have<br />
reached out to remind her how much she’s been missed this<br />
year. This is hugely important to Serena, who insists that<br />
contrary to the rumors, this is a group of women that genuinely<br />
cares for and respects one another. “I really believe that<br />
we have to build each other up and build our tour up,” she<br />
says. “The women in Billie Jean King’s day supported each<br />
other even though they competed fiercely. We’ve got to do<br />
that. That’s kind of the mark I want to leave. Play each other<br />
hard, but keep growing the sport.”<br />
Back at the house, Olympia has awoken<br />
from her nap. Serena lays her on a play<br />
mat in the TV room so that they can do<br />
some tandem exercises while Chip, the<br />
Yorkie, runs in circles around them, eager<br />
to get in on the action. Mother tests out a<br />
few crunches, but her stomach is still too<br />
weak; baby kicks out her chubby legs a<br />
few times, which proves irresistible to Serena, who rolls over<br />
and grabs them. “They’re not calves!” she<br />
says. “They’re not ankles! What are they?<br />
That’s right—Mommy loves your cankles!”<br />
“I think she got them from me,” says<br />
Alexis, overhearing, from the next room.<br />
Olympia tries to wriggle out of the baby<br />
gym, with its dumbbell-shaped rattles,<br />
but Serena says not so fast. “Some other<br />
seven-week-old is in the gym right now<br />
working,” she jokes. But she has no wish<br />
to push her daughter onto the court. To<br />
her mother’s horror, Olympia sat transfixed<br />
by the Argentine star Juan Martín<br />
del Potro recently. “I was distraught when<br />
I saw her,” says Serena. “I would hate her<br />
to have to deal with comparisons or expectations.<br />
It’s so much work, and I’ve<br />
given up so much. I don’t regret it, but it’s like Sliding<br />
Doors: Go through a different door and lead a different<br />
life. I’d like her to have a normal life. I didn’t have that.”<br />
“She’s obviously going to have a very special life,” Alexis<br />
says, “but there are enough cautionary tales about kids who<br />
grow up in the spotlight. How do you make your kid live in<br />
reality when your own reality is so . . . unreal? This kid is going<br />
to have more Instagram followers than me in about three<br />
weeks.” (At press time, baby was narrowing her father’s lead.)<br />
The biggest question in women’s tennis last year was<br />
who would end up number one in Serena’s absence, and the<br />
answer didn’t become clear until the penultimate day of the<br />
season, when Serena’s friend Simona Halep, of Romania,<br />
snuck off with the crown. It could have been anybody, really,<br />
including the tour’s elder stateswoman, Venus Williams,<br />
who at age 37 was a couple of victories from the number-one<br />
ranking. The fact that Venus’s extraordinary year coincided<br />
with Serena’s absence from the tour is not lost on her younger<br />
sister. “I know that her career might have been different if she<br />
had had my health,” Serena says, clinging to the fantasy of<br />
“Women are<br />
sometimestaught<br />
tonotdream<br />
asbigasmen.<br />
I’msogladIhad<br />
adaughter.<br />
Iwanttoteach<br />
herthatthereare<br />
nolimits”<br />
sisterly parity. “I know how hard she works. I hate playing<br />
her because she gets this look on her face where she just looks<br />
sad if she’s losing. Solemn. It breaks my heart. So when I play<br />
her now, I absolutely don’t look at her, because if she gets that<br />
look, then I’ll start feeling bad, and the next thing you know<br />
I’ll be losing. I think that’s when the turning point came in<br />
our rivalry, when I stopped looking at her.”<br />
The truth is that dominant number ones like Serena are<br />
rare, and no one has made a bold declaration during her<br />
absence. “It’s interesting,” she muses. “There hasn’t been a<br />
clear number one since I was there. It will be cool to see if I<br />
get there again, to what I call my spot—where I feel I belong.<br />
I don’t play to be the second best or the third best. If there’s<br />
no clear number one, it’s like, yeah, I can get my spot back.<br />
But if there is a clear number one, that’s cool, too, because<br />
it’s like, yeah, I’m gonna come for you.”<br />
Serena is never more lethal than when she zeroes in on<br />
a target. (Just ask Maria Sharapova.) She had hoped to<br />
defend her Australian Open title in January, but the recent<br />
medical gantlet has forced her to move her return date to<br />
March, where she’d like to play for the trophy at Indian<br />
Wells. She has set her sights beyond the tennis court as<br />
well. She will debut a new clothing line in March on her<br />
website. She continues to invest in tech ventures owned or<br />
led by women and African Americans. Her<br />
philanthropic endeavors focus on children<br />
and education. Although she thinks she’d<br />
be a terrible tennis coach, she imagines it<br />
would be gratifying to mentor an emerging<br />
player. (She admires the young and powerful<br />
Russian Daria Kasatkina.) And she<br />
would like to have more children, though<br />
she’s in no rush.<br />
“I remember how stressed I was about<br />
getting to Grand Slam number eighteen, tying<br />
Chrissie and Martina,” she says. “I had<br />
lost every Grand Slam that year. I was in<br />
the U.S. Open, and Patrick [Mouratoglou],<br />
my coach, said, ‘Serena, this doesn’t make<br />
sense. You’re so stressed about eighteen.<br />
Why not 30? Why not 40?’ For me, that<br />
clicked. I won eighteen, nineteen, and 20 right after that.<br />
Why would I want to stand side by side when I can stand out<br />
on my own? I think sometimes women limit themselves. I’m<br />
not sure why we think that way, but I know that we’re sometimes<br />
taught to not dream as big as men, not to believe we<br />
can be a president or a CEO, when in the same household, a<br />
male child is told he can be anything he wants. I’m so glad I<br />
had a daughter. I want to teach her that there are no limits.”<br />
Recently Serena agreed to sit on the board of the Billie<br />
Jean King Leadership Initiative, CONTINUED ON PAGE 172<br />
PAIR OF HEARTS<br />
Serena’s New Orleans wedding to Reddit cofounder Alexis<br />
Ohanian was packed with powerful women friends—Beyoncé<br />
Knowles, Sheryl Sandberg, Caroline Wozniacki, Kim Kardashian<br />
West, Eva Longoria, and more. On Serena: Michael Kors<br />
Collection bodysuit. BreeLayne skirt. Audemars Piguet watch.<br />
In this story: for Serena: hair, Vernon François for Vernon<br />
François; makeup, Tyron Machhausen. For her family: hair,<br />
Angela Meadows and Nigel Phillips; makeup, Natasha Gross and<br />
Jainel Forbes. Set design, Rafa Olarra. Details, see In This Issue.<br />
114<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
PRODUCED BY JEREMY MCGUIRE AT GE PROJECTS<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
LOVE<br />
IN<br />
THE<br />
TRENCHES<br />
Reimagined topcoats<br />
have never felt<br />
so timely. Model<br />
Doutzen Kroes<br />
and family take<br />
a few for a stroll<br />
(and a paddle)<br />
through the<br />
Louisiana bayou.<br />
Photographed by<br />
Peter Lindbergh.<br />
WILDEST DREAMS<br />
WHEN MASCULINE EASE<br />
MEETS FEMININE FROU<br />
IN THE FORM OF THIS<br />
MAISON MARGIELA TRENCH<br />
COAT, THE RESULTS<br />
ARE THE BEST OF BOTH<br />
WORLDS. ON KROES:<br />
MAISON MARGIELA<br />
COAT; MAISON MARGIELA<br />
BOUTIQUES. KROES’S<br />
HUSBAND, DJ SUNNERY<br />
JAMES, WEARS A BILLY REID<br />
SUIT. TOM FORD SHIRT.<br />
FASHION EDITOR:<br />
ALEX HARRINGTON.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
SWING EASY<br />
TRIED-AND-TRUE<br />
TRENCH SILHOUETTES<br />
ARE SOFTENED<br />
UP WITH REFINED<br />
MATERIALS AND A<br />
LOOSER, ELEGANT<br />
CUT. CÉLINE COAT AND<br />
DRESS; CÉLINE, NYC.<br />
BEAUTY NOTE<br />
EVEN LONG AND<br />
LANGUID LENGTHS<br />
CAN USE A HELPING<br />
HAND. L’ORÉAL<br />
PARIS’ EVERPURE<br />
INTENSE REPAIR<br />
HAIR SHEET MASK<br />
SIMULTANEOUSLY<br />
STRENGTHENS<br />
AND NOURISHES.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
FIELD DAY<br />
THIS FLIRTY FLORAL<br />
TOPCOAT IS A FRESH<br />
TAKE ON THROW-<br />
ON-AND-GO STYLE. ON<br />
KROES: SIMONE ROCHA<br />
COAT, $4,110; SIMONE<br />
ROCHA, NYC. DOLCE<br />
& GABBANA DRESS,<br />
$2,595: SELECT DOLCE &<br />
GABBANA BOUTIQUES.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
FIGHTING<br />
FOR<br />
THEIR<br />
RIGHTS<br />
Doutzen Kroes had another encounter<br />
with the wild world—with elephants,<br />
in particular—on the Samburu National<br />
Reserve in Kenya two years<br />
ago. The experience would prove to<br />
be life-changing. “Their behavior is<br />
so similar to human beings that it was<br />
almost like watching another family,”<br />
said the Dutch model, who made the<br />
journey with her husband, Sunnery<br />
James, and their then-four-year-old<br />
son Phyllon. “The thought that these<br />
gentle, ancient creatures might be<br />
extinct in the next ten years was devastating.”<br />
As the global ambassador<br />
for #knotonmyplanet, a fund-raising<br />
platform for elephant conservation in<br />
Africa founded by former model Trish<br />
Goff and DNA agency head David<br />
Bonnouvrier, Kroes is leading the fashion<br />
community’s charge against ivory<br />
poaching and trafficking. Since the initiative<br />
launched in September 2016, it<br />
has raised $3 million for the Elephant<br />
Crisis Fund, enlisting a circle of supporters<br />
that includes Tiffany & Co.,<br />
Net-a-Porter, Snapchat, and the supermodel<br />
trinity of Linda, Naomi, and<br />
Christy, who reunited for the first time<br />
in two decades for the campaign. “This<br />
cause has really taken over my life—in<br />
the best possible way,” says Kroes. “I’ve<br />
found my purpose as an activist, and<br />
that’s a great feeling.”—CHIOMA NNADI<br />
120<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
IN A NEW LIGHT<br />
KROES WEARS A BOTTEGA<br />
VENETA COAT, $2,600;<br />
(800) 845-6790. VICTORIA<br />
BECKHAM SHIRT, $790;<br />
VICTORIABECKHAM.COM.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
122<br />
ALL WRAPPED UP<br />
A FAINT, ALMOST<br />
ABSTRACT FLORAL<br />
PRINT IN SILKY FABRIC<br />
PUTS AN UTTERLY<br />
EMBRACEABLE<br />
TWIST ON THE PURE<br />
AND SIMPLE. DRIES<br />
VAN NOTEN COAT,<br />
$1,775; BARNEYS<br />
NEW YORK, NYC.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
BY THE BOOK<br />
REINVENT TRADITIONAL<br />
BLUE PLAID WITH A<br />
BLOWN-OUT PATTERN<br />
AND AN OVERSIZE<br />
SHAPE. BURBERRY<br />
COAT ($2,195) AND<br />
DRESS ($3,495);<br />
BURBERRY.COM.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
TESTING<br />
THE WATERS<br />
EMBELLISHMENTS,<br />
ADORNMENTS, AND<br />
PRINT TURN AN<br />
OTHERWISE ORDINARY<br />
TRENCH INTO A<br />
SINGULAR SPECTACLE.<br />
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN<br />
COAT AND SKIRT<br />
($2,895); ALEXANDER<br />
MCQUEEN, NYC. IN<br />
THIS STORY: HAIR,<br />
AKKI; MAKEUP,<br />
FRANCELLE. DETAILS,<br />
SEE IN THIS ISSUE.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
PRODUCED BY ANTHONY GRANERI AT 2B PLUS.<br />
PROP STYLIST, SOPHIE HOWELL.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
IT TAKES TWO<br />
Sisters Akwaeke and Yagazie Emezi<br />
differ in approach (one wields a pen and<br />
the other a camera), but both address<br />
struggles of self-identification. Here, at<br />
Brooklyn’s Human Relations bookstore,<br />
Akwaeke (NEAR RIGHT) wears Gucci;<br />
Yagazie wears a Calvin Klein Jeans<br />
shirt and Rag & Bone pants. Marni<br />
jacket (in hand). Makeup, Alice Lane.<br />
Sittings Editor: Tabitha Simmons.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
tronger Together<br />
Inthese<br />
close-knit<br />
families<br />
(biologicalor<br />
self-defined),<br />
analtruistic<br />
currentruns<br />
deep.Propelled<br />
byadesire<br />
forchange,<br />
they’renot<br />
waitingfor<br />
theworld<br />
tocatchup.<br />
Photographed by<br />
AnnieLeibovitz<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
AKWAEKE &<br />
YAGAZIE EMEZI<br />
previous spread: When Yagazie Emezi<br />
was about six, she was hospitalized after<br />
being run over by a truck. (Luckily,<br />
she says, her bones were still growing.)<br />
To the Nigerian-born documentary<br />
photographer, the experience was more<br />
formative than traumatic. “I’ve had the<br />
scar for most of my life,” says Yagazie.<br />
“I don’t remember myself without it.”<br />
Yagazie’s matter-of-fact attitude informs<br />
her ongoing project Re-learning Bodies,<br />
a series of photographs of people from<br />
African communities that presents scars<br />
less as a result of violence and more as<br />
a testament to lived experience. This<br />
shift in conventional thinking is something<br />
Yagazie’s sister, Akwaeke, also<br />
explores in her stunning debut novel,<br />
Freshwater, a beguiling book that skips<br />
from Nigeria to Virginia to Brooklyn,<br />
drawing from Igbo tradition and the<br />
author’s own autobiography. Through<br />
different forms, the sisters see themselves<br />
as part of a larger endeavor to break<br />
with norms and tradition. “There’s this<br />
reality that’s considered mainstream,<br />
where beauty looks like X,” says Akwaeke.<br />
“We’re stepping outside that reality,<br />
and we’re saying we’re not going<br />
to move.”—CHLOE SCHAMA<br />
HERS AND HERS<br />
Conscious Commerce<br />
cofounders Olivia Wilde<br />
(NEAR LEFT, in an H&M<br />
T-shirt) and Barbara<br />
Burchfield (FAR LEFT,<br />
in an H&M blouse),<br />
photographed at<br />
Wilde’s Brooklyn home.<br />
Makeup; Alice Lane.<br />
OLIVIA WILDE<br />
& BARBARA<br />
BURCHFIELD<br />
“Remember when eco-friendly shopping<br />
was the only way you could think<br />
of shopping differently?” asks Olivia<br />
Wilde. Thanks to companies like Conscious<br />
Commerce—a collaboration<br />
between Wilde and her best friend/business<br />
partner, Barbara (Babs) Burchfield—the<br />
options are now greater than<br />
ever. The company has helped develop<br />
products (Alternative Apparel’s Message<br />
bag benefiting Haitian students),<br />
partnered with do-gooder companies<br />
(“give back” salon Detroit Blows), and<br />
advised blue-chip brands on mindful<br />
business practices (H&M’s eco Conscious<br />
Exclusive collection). “We are a<br />
family, the two of us,” says Wilde, also<br />
the mother of two—Otis, three, and<br />
Daisy, one—with her partner, actor<br />
Jason Sudeikis. But the friends share<br />
an even more expansive sense of clan:<br />
“Once you start doing business from<br />
a mission-driven place, you become<br />
family very fast with everyone you work<br />
with,” says Burchfield.—LILAH RAMZI<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
JAMILA WOODS &<br />
CHICAGO MENTEES<br />
“You gotta love me like I love the<br />
lake,” sings Jamila Woods on “LSD,”<br />
a floaty, summery paean to Chicago’s<br />
famed body of water—part of a larger<br />
tribute to the singer’s home. The video<br />
for “LSD,” which features Chance the<br />
Rapper as backyard-barbecue host<br />
(and guest vocalist), enlisted help from<br />
Chicago public school students. It’s<br />
this kind of layered cultivation of family—in<br />
an urban, civic, and artistic<br />
sense—that is one of Woods’s central<br />
principles, not only for her music but<br />
also in her role as the associate artistic<br />
director of Young Chicago Authors,<br />
an organization that runs the largest<br />
youth-poetry festival in the world.<br />
(Both Woods and Chance have participated<br />
in the organization’s programs.)<br />
“Mentorship is really important to<br />
me,” Woods says, “because that’s how<br />
I was able to own my voice.” Now she<br />
guides young women such as Patricia<br />
Frazier, the current youth poet laureate<br />
of the city, and E’mon Lauren,<br />
a former honoree. “I want to actually<br />
be there connecting with people,”<br />
Woods says, “’cause it helps me as an<br />
artist, too.”—C.S.<br />
STEP BY STEP<br />
A Chicagoan creative<br />
force, Jamila Woods sits<br />
between E’mon Lauren<br />
and Patricia Frazier—two<br />
rising literary stars who<br />
benefited from her work<br />
with the organization<br />
Young Chicago Authors.<br />
Woods wears Marc<br />
Jacobs; Lauren, a Rag<br />
& Bone shirt and Etro<br />
pants; and Frazier,<br />
a La DoubleJ dress.<br />
Makeup, Francelle.<br />
SPECIAL THANKS TO I, TOO COLLECTIVE AT THE LANGSTON HUGHES HOUSE<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
JACQUELYN<br />
JABLONSKI<br />
& FAMILY<br />
“Why is a child always the face of autism?”<br />
asks model Jacquelyn Jablonski.<br />
“Early diagnosis is important,<br />
but people should know it’s a lifelong<br />
condition.” Jablonski, who has lent her<br />
face to brands such as Givenchy and<br />
J.Crew, knows from personal experience:<br />
Her younger brother, Tommy, was<br />
diagnosed with autism at the age of<br />
two, and as he grew older, she noticed<br />
that the resources to help him became<br />
increasingly limited. Along with her<br />
sisters, Allyson and Kathryn, the New<br />
Jersey–born model aligned herself<br />
with various nonprofits, and in 2016<br />
she founded Autism Tomorrow. When<br />
most people turn 21, Jablonski says, it’s<br />
generally an exciting time; for families<br />
aging out of traditional support services,<br />
it can be terrifying. “But,” she<br />
says, “it doesn’t have to be.”—L.R.<br />
ILHAN OMAR<br />
& FAMILY<br />
following spread: For Ilhan Omar,<br />
a Minnesota House representative,<br />
the term “family” is all-embracing. It<br />
naturally includes her husband, Ahmed<br />
Hirsi, and their three children—Isra,<br />
fourteen; Adnan, twelve; and Ilwad,<br />
five—as well as her father and six siblings,<br />
with whom she emigrated from<br />
Somalia, arriving in the U.S., by way<br />
of a Kenyan refugee camp, in 1995.<br />
But it also includes the constituents of<br />
her Minneapolis district and the many<br />
marginalized groups with whom she<br />
identifies as a black female Muslim<br />
immigrant. “I try not to think of my<br />
life in terms of separation. My kids are<br />
part of the rest of my community and<br />
my wider family,” she says. The highest<br />
Somali-American in public office,<br />
Omar wants to be known as more than<br />
a political outlier. “I didn’t just want to<br />
be a first, I wanted to have a voice that<br />
mattered.” She’s been busy with legislation—authoring<br />
25 bills in her first session—and<br />
she has particularly inspired<br />
two constituents: Isra and Adnan, who<br />
are quick to correct those who tell Omar<br />
they hope she will be president one day.<br />
“They say, ‘Mom can’t, she wasn’t born<br />
here, but we can!’ ” Omar says, laughing<br />
proudly.—CHLOE MALLE<br />
UNITED FRONT<br />
Jacquelyn Jablonski<br />
(FAR RIGHT, in a Chloé<br />
dress), who founded<br />
Autism Tomorrow to<br />
raise awareness about<br />
the condition in adults,<br />
with her siblings,<br />
Allyson (in a Rag &<br />
Bone jacket and shirt),<br />
Kathryn (in a Chanel<br />
sweater and J Brand<br />
jeans), and Tommy.<br />
Makeup, Alice Lane.<br />
132<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
NEW<br />
AMERICANS<br />
Minnesota House<br />
representative<br />
Ilhan Omar with her<br />
husband, Ahmed<br />
Hirsi; son, Adnan;<br />
and daughters,<br />
Ilwad and Isra.<br />
Omar is the first<br />
Somali-American<br />
Muslim elected to<br />
a state legislature.<br />
Makeup, Francelle.<br />
In this story: hair,<br />
Sally Hershberger<br />
24K. Details, see<br />
In This Issue.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
SET DESIGN, MARY HOWARD<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
Living<br />
Their<br />
Grime artist<br />
Stormzy and DJ/<br />
TV star Maya<br />
Jama are<br />
London’s coolest<br />
couple—and not<br />
just for their<br />
talent. Hadley<br />
Freeman meets a<br />
duo that has<br />
changed the<br />
conversation.<br />
Photographed by<br />
Anton Corbijn.<br />
Park Chinois, an absurdly<br />
over-the-top Chinese<br />
restaurant in Mayfair,<br />
London’s most chichi<br />
neighborhood, is exactly<br />
the kind of place you expect<br />
to find your average<br />
celebrities and wannabes.<br />
So it is very much not the<br />
kind of place true originals<br />
like grime superstar<br />
Stormzy, 24, and his girlfriend,<br />
Maya Jama, 23, a<br />
rising TV and radio presenter,<br />
usually hang out.<br />
“No, not at all, man,”<br />
says Stormzy, known to his mother as Michael Ebenazer<br />
Kwadjo Omari Owuo Jr., surveying the restaurant’s purple,<br />
gold, and velvet decor when we meet in the downstairs bar.<br />
It is not, he says, their “kind of scene.”<br />
The reason we’re here is that it is now almost impossible<br />
for the couple to go out in public in London, where they are<br />
harassed for selfies at every turn. Grime—which can, very<br />
roughly, be defined as British hip-hop—is still pretty niche<br />
in America, but in Britain it is absolutely huge, and this is in<br />
large part thanks to Stormzy. His astonishingly catchy and<br />
surprisingly beautiful album, Gang Signs & Prayer, released<br />
last year, was the first full-on grime album to reach number<br />
one in the British pop charts.<br />
It’s lunchtime, but Stormzy and Jama ignore the dim sum<br />
and extensive tea selection on offer. “Nah, we’re all right,”<br />
Jama says, smiling up at the waiter so prettily, he barely<br />
notices the rejection. But aren’t they hungry? Jama has it<br />
sorted: On the way to our interview she ordered some pasta<br />
from a popular takeout chain, and it is now waiting for them<br />
136<br />
BETTER<br />
TOGETHER<br />
The pair met three<br />
years ago through<br />
work, and live<br />
together in West<br />
London. Maya Jama<br />
wears Alexander<br />
McQueen. Stormzy<br />
wears an Adidas<br />
Originals jacket and<br />
Burberry T-shirt<br />
and jeans. Patek<br />
Philippe watch.<br />
Fashion Editor:<br />
Lucinda Chambers.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
upstairs, having been delivered to Park Chinois’s presumably<br />
somewhat surprised receptionist.<br />
As smart food moves go, this trumps the time last September<br />
when she tweeted at Stormzy around 3:00 a.m. to request<br />
some McDonald’s: “2 double cheeseburgers and 9 nuggets<br />
with dips thanks love you,” she wrote.<br />
“Drink?” was his unfazed response.<br />
“Coke please,” she replied, with a kiss emoji.<br />
The exchange made the British tabloids, and their fans<br />
couldn’t get enough of it: “Stormzy and Maya Jama are<br />
actually goals,” read one typical tweet.<br />
They are seen as the premier couple<br />
of grime, but their appeal<br />
goes deeper than that. Both<br />
are from immigrant families—<br />
he is of Ghanaian descent;<br />
she is Swedish/Somali—and<br />
have made good, which feels<br />
like a satisfying riposte to the<br />
Brexit politics in Britain and<br />
Trump’s rhetoric in the U.S.<br />
When Stormzy came out to<br />
support Jeremy Corbyn, the<br />
leader of the left-leaning Labor Party, in last year’s British<br />
election, newspapers reported this as a genuinely crucial political<br />
development. It suggested that the youth vote was behind<br />
Labor—which turned out to be the case. Corbyn, 68, returned<br />
the favor by describing Stormzy as “one of London’s most<br />
inspiring young men” and dropping some grime lingo; Corbyn<br />
was referred to by his supporters as “the<br />
absolute boy” (i.e., “the main man”) during<br />
the campaign. If there was a moment when<br />
grime truly went mainstream in Britain, that<br />
was it, and it came from Stormzy.<br />
“I feel like there was a period when music<br />
was about the industry. People worried<br />
about whether a radio station would play<br />
them,” he says in his basso profundo voice,<br />
referring to a fear among artists of speaking<br />
out politically. “Now people are just walking<br />
their truth.”<br />
Stormzy’s truth, from ordering McDonald’s<br />
to making political statements, is what<br />
his fans love about him, and not just in Britain.<br />
Kanye West is a big grime fan—Stormzy<br />
performed live with him in London in<br />
2015, which helped raise Stormzy’s American<br />
profile. He played Coachella and Glastonbury last year,<br />
and while the crowd was smaller in the U.S., it was no less<br />
passionate. To Stormzy’s visible astonishment, the audience<br />
shouted his distinctly London-centric lyrics right back to<br />
him. For example, “I’m so London, I’m so South/Food in<br />
the ends like there ain’t no drought,” a reference to his origins<br />
in South London and his brief career as a small-time drug<br />
(“food”) dealer.<br />
“You’ve got Lady Gaga, Kendrick, Radiohead—all these<br />
superstars just walking around,” he says of the experience.<br />
“It’s like, Flipping hell, I’m just Stormz from South London;<br />
I don’t know if it’s gonna work out here!” He still has<br />
the humility of a London boy who can’t quite believe this<br />
Stormzy and<br />
Jama have used<br />
their platforms<br />
to talk about<br />
personal subjects<br />
that matter to<br />
them, from<br />
incarceration<br />
to mental health<br />
is happening; when he hears that Zadie Smith loves Gang<br />
Signs & Prayer, his eyebrows shoot up toward his hairline:<br />
“Wicked, wicked, wicked! Wow, she said that? I’m honored,<br />
just truly honored.”<br />
Yet he clearly has major ambition. He chose Fraser T<br />
Smith, a producer for Adele, to work on his debut album and<br />
cites as his inspirations Jay-Z, Ed Sheeran, Kanye, Prince,<br />
and Bob Marley. (“Stormzy’s musicality and the depth of<br />
his references stood out to me from the start,” Smith reports.<br />
“He reminds me a lot of Adele in terms of his work ethic and<br />
his vision.”) Adele herself is impressed. “He has a charisma<br />
about him that not many people have,” she says. “There’s a<br />
joyous familiarity to him and his music.”<br />
Occasionally dressed by Burberry, Stormzy is more often<br />
in streetwear—today he’s in his favorite outfit, an all-black<br />
tracksuit by Blanks Factory and black Adidas trainers. “In<br />
my head no one can see me, but if you’re walking down the<br />
street and there’s a six-foot-five guy who’s all in black, you’re<br />
probably going to notice that,” he admits.<br />
“You look like a spy,” says Jama, smiling.<br />
“Yeah, or a ninja,” agrees Stormzy.<br />
A pinup for young women, Jama is known on the red carpet<br />
for fun, short dresses in bright colors. “I’m flying tonight,<br />
though, so I’m not very fashion today. I’ve gone for comfort,”<br />
she says, but she looks terrific: She’s wearing glittery hoop<br />
earrings, a short fake-fur jacket, a fashion-forward oversize<br />
hoodie from ASOS, black leggings, and white Adidas sneakers.<br />
Together they make a supremely cool pair.<br />
What makes them even cooler is the fact that both Stormzy<br />
and Jama have used their platforms to talk about personal<br />
subjects that matter to them. Jama has spoken<br />
of the pain she felt as a child when her<br />
father served multiple jail sentences. (She is<br />
no longer in touch with him.) “When I was<br />
starting out I felt a bit nervous about people<br />
finding out, because I thought they’d think<br />
less of me,” she says. “But then I decided I<br />
should be that person that speaks about it.”<br />
Last year she made a critically acclaimed<br />
documentary, When Dad Kills: Murderer<br />
in the Family, about children of fathers who<br />
are incarcerated, or addicts.<br />
Stormzy, too, was raised without his<br />
father, who abandoned him, his two sisters,<br />
and his mother when he was a child. He revisits<br />
this relationship and his rage about it<br />
in “Lay Me Bare,” a track he has described<br />
as “cathartic.” Last year, in a TV interview,<br />
he also revealed that he had suffered from depression, which<br />
he has written about in his music: “Like, man, I get low<br />
sometimes, so low sometimes/Airplane mode on my phone<br />
sometimes/Sittin’ in my house with tears in my face/Can’t<br />
answer the door to my bro sometimes.”<br />
Newspapers called this candor “a game changer” in reducing<br />
the stigma around mental-health issues. Today he<br />
still looks a little shocked at the impact his words had: “I’m<br />
superproud in the sense that what I said was able to touch<br />
people. But I really didn’t enjoy being the poster boy. I’m still<br />
going through it and trying to deal with it,” he says.<br />
In conversation, Stormzy is serious and engaged. He considers<br />
each question carefully and answers slowly. Jama, by<br />
138<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
COUPLE GOALS<br />
Stormzy and Maya Jama’s careers, style, politics, and candor have redefined cultural currency<br />
in the U.K. He wears a Dolce & Gabbana jacket and T-shirt. She wears a Christopher Kane coat.<br />
In this story: hair, Shon; makeup, Lisa Eldridge. Details, see In This Issue.<br />
PRODUCED BY 10-4 INC LONDON<br />
contrast, is bright and bubbly, talking nineteen to the dozen.<br />
When recalling how they got together in 2014, he says simply,<br />
“We met in October, then we were going out by January.”<br />
Jama, however, goes into endearingly girlish detail:<br />
“We met at Red Bull Culture Clash,” she says, referring<br />
to the global-music event where rap, grime, and EDM crews<br />
compete against one another. “You know, if I’m really honest,<br />
I knew I fancied him from the start. But I didn’t want<br />
anything yet, because, you know, you’re trying to do the<br />
whole friend situation first, and then I’d do, like, obvious<br />
hints that I fancied him and then take it back because I didn’t<br />
know if he definitely liked me. It was a childish phase. And<br />
then one day we just kissed, and that was that!”<br />
“It was three years and one month ago exactly,” adds<br />
Stormzy.<br />
Jama, who grew up in Bristol, has steadily built a reputation<br />
as a front woman on TV and radio. At sixteen she<br />
moved to London, where she set up her own YouTube channel<br />
and was hired by MTV. She was recently a host for the<br />
popular Saturday-night TV game show Cannonball and<br />
is soon to appear on Sky One’s extreme-sports program<br />
Revolution.<br />
Stormzy came to fame more abruptly. He attended a notoriously<br />
tough school in the London suburb of Croydon and<br />
worked briefly as a manager on an oil rig, watching grime<br />
videos during his lunch break. He’d always loved music and<br />
performed where he could. In 2014, he released an independent<br />
EP. Instantly, without even having a record deal, he<br />
began getting awards and bookings on national TV.<br />
He and Jama have worked together several times: Jama interviewed<br />
him on her drive-time radio show, and she appears<br />
in the video for his single “Big for Your Boots,” in which the<br />
two of them are hanging out—where else?—in a takeaway<br />
fast-food joint. He dedicated his song “Birthday Girl” to her.<br />
“It’s the nicest present you can get from someone because<br />
it lasts forever,” she says with a smile.<br />
They live together in West London, though with both of<br />
their careers taking off, they’re rarely there at the same time:<br />
He’s now working on a second album. After our interview,<br />
she was due to fly to New York to shoot a Gap campaign, her<br />
first American modeling job. So with such busy schedules,<br />
what keeps the two of them together?<br />
“The fact that we love each other. That’s the main thing,<br />
right?” Jama says.<br />
“Yeah,” Stormzy agrees.<br />
And do they make plans for the future? Both recoil a little.<br />
“We’re 23, 24 years old; we don’t make plans!” Jama<br />
laughs. “Just carry on floating. We’ll see where it takes us.” □<br />
139<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
COMMON<br />
GROUND<br />
FROM FAR LEFT:<br />
Denise Gough,<br />
Lee Pace, Amanda<br />
Lawrence, Andrew<br />
Garfield, and Nathan<br />
Lane star in Marianne<br />
Elliott’s production.<br />
Hair, Thom Priano<br />
for R+Co Haircare;<br />
makeup, Yumi<br />
Lee. Details, see<br />
In This Issue.<br />
Sittings Editor:<br />
Phyllis Posnick.<br />
SET DESIGN, MARY HOWARD<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
A M E R I C A N B E A U T Y<br />
A quarter century on from its original premiere, a stunning new version of<br />
Tony Kushner’s epochal Angels in America returns to Broadway. By Adam Green.<br />
Photographed by Annie Leibovitz<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
Every once in a great while comes along a piece of Americanborn<br />
theater, large of scope and ambition, that is both a genuine<br />
work of art and a commercial blockbuster—something<br />
that not only taps into the Zeitgeist but reveals and defines<br />
it, illuminating who we are as a country and a people. Such<br />
a supernova was Tony Kushner’s magnificent two-part epic<br />
Angels in America: A Gay Fantasia on National Themes,<br />
which opened on Broadway in 1993 and went on to become<br />
the signal cultural event of the decade. My father took me to<br />
see George C. Wolfe’s production of part one, Millennium<br />
Approaches, soon after it opened, and I was bowled over—<br />
I’d never realized that one play could contain so many ideas<br />
and feelings, so much invention and humanity. After the<br />
curtain came down, my father, a writer of musical comedies<br />
Garfield, who portrays an AIDS-afflicted young gay man<br />
named Prior Walter in the play, chalks up its enduring power<br />
in large part to its universality. “It feels like a story as old as<br />
time,” Garfield says, “with a group of human beings in a<br />
spiritual emergency, fighting for their lives. Toward the end,<br />
Prior tells the angels that he can’t explain why he wants to<br />
keep living—all he knows is that he does. There’s nothing<br />
more universal than that: to face death and then, despite all<br />
the suffering and ugliness, choose life—choose the possibility<br />
of hope and connection and joy, anyway.”<br />
Kushner’s play was hardly the first to depict homosexuality<br />
on the stage. Mart Crowley’s acid comedy The Boys in the<br />
Band paved the way in 1968 (a revival is coming to New York<br />
this spring, directed by Joe Mantello, one of the original stars<br />
of Angels), and in 1981 Harvey Fierstein’s Torch Song Trilogy<br />
(recently revived at Second Stage) brought the travails of a<br />
drag queen to Broadway audiences. Nor was it the first to take<br />
on the AIDS crisis—Larry Kramer’s scorching The Normal<br />
Heart and William M. Hoffman’s As Is brought it to the stage<br />
in the mid-eighties, as did Paul Rudnick’s comedy Jeffrey and<br />
William Finn’s musical Falsettos in the early nineties.<br />
What made (and makes) Angels revolutionary is its Whitmanesque<br />
breadth—it is large, it contains multitudes—along<br />
with its refusal to distinguish between the political and the<br />
personal, the mundane and the mystical; its audacity in placing<br />
the dark years of the Reagan revolution and the AIDS<br />
epidemic in the stream of American history, from the Mormon<br />
migration to the McCarthy hearings; and its wild humor,<br />
extravagant theatrical imagination, fierce moral outrage, and<br />
boundless compassion. Though it echoes both Brecht and<br />
George Bernard Shaw, it stands in its distinct Americanness<br />
alongside the best of Eugene O’Neill, Tennessee Williams,<br />
and Arthur Miller. “It’s an actual masterpiece by a living<br />
playwright that transcends its time and subject matter,” Elliott<br />
says. “Hamlet is not really about being a Danish prince,<br />
“It feels likeastoryasoldastime,” saysAndrew Garfield, “withagroupof human<br />
beingsinaspiritualemergency,fightingfor theirlives”<br />
of an earlier era, turned to me in excitement and said, “It’s<br />
so fucking theatrical. And it’s about everything.” It’s hard<br />
to convey the fervor that attended Angels at the time—the<br />
critical acclaim, the box-office mayhem, the Pulitzer and<br />
seven Tonys—though, as Nathan Lane puts it, “it was the<br />
Hamilton of its day.”<br />
As it happens, Lane is one of the stars of Marianne Elliott’s<br />
stunning new production of Angels in America, which, after<br />
a rapturously received run at London’s National Theatre last<br />
summer, comes to Broadway this month after 25 years with<br />
a knockout cast led by Andrew Garfield and Denise Gough.<br />
(The anniversary is also being marked by the publication of<br />
a fascinating oral history of the play, The World Only Spins<br />
Forward, by Isaac Butler and Dan Kois.) Set in New York<br />
against the AIDS crisis at the height of the Reagan era, Angels<br />
is a work that demands to be revisited again and again, and<br />
has —from Mike Nichols’s superb 2003 miniseries for HBO<br />
to Ivo van Hove’s radically stripped-down 2014 production<br />
in Dutch translation.<br />
but that’s the context in which it grows, and you could say the<br />
same about Angels in America.”<br />
Kushner got the first spark of inspiration for the play in<br />
1985 or 1986, after learning that an old friend of his named<br />
Bill had died of AIDS. “I went to bed that night and had a<br />
dream of Bill,” he says, “in his pajamas on his bed, alive and<br />
sort of cowering while the ceiling fell in and an angel floated<br />
into his room, and that was sort of the beginning of the whole<br />
process.” Oskar Eustis, then the head of San Francisco’s Eureka<br />
Theatre Company (currently the artistic director of the<br />
Public Theater), who had directed Kushner’s first big play, A<br />
Bright Room Called Day, commissioned him to write a new<br />
one. As Kushner and Eustis developed it, Kushner’s work<br />
about AIDS and angels and being gay in New York in the<br />
1980s also became about Mormons and democracy and the<br />
notorious lawyer Roy Cohn.<br />
Eustis applied for a National Endowment for the Arts<br />
grant for his company to develop and stage the play and, to<br />
everyone’s surprise, got it. Kushner remembers getting his<br />
142<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
first check from the NEA and noticing a federal watermark<br />
on it. “When I saw that watermark, I had some feeling like:<br />
This play has literally been commissioned by the people of<br />
the United States of America, and I have to give them their<br />
money’s worth,” he says. “It turned into a very big play, in<br />
part because of that. Oskar had gotten me to sign a contract<br />
saying that I would make the play only two hours long, and I<br />
failed miserably in that regard.”<br />
At seven and a half hours spread over two plays—the second<br />
is called Perestroika—Angels may be a wide-ranging epic,<br />
but it’s also an intimate portrayal of isolated people struggling<br />
to change and grow and connect. At its heart is the drama of<br />
two unhappy couples. First up are Prior Walter (Garfield),<br />
a smart, sarcastic, sensitive, and flamboyant 30-year-old<br />
New Yorker of high WASP lineage who learns early on that<br />
he has AIDS, and his longtime lover Louis Ironson (James<br />
McArdle), a selfish, guilt-ridden Jewish clerical worker who<br />
flaunts the courage of his left-wing convictions but can’t<br />
handle Prior’s suffering and abandons him to face it alone.<br />
Then there’s Harper Pitt (Gough), a Mormon housewife living<br />
in Brooklyn who pops Valium to blunt the pain of being<br />
emotionally and sexually deserted by her husband, Joe (Lee<br />
Pace), a hunky Republican law clerk with a secret longing for<br />
the leaves in Central Park, and we’re transported there.”<br />
Any production of Angels, of course, rises or falls with the<br />
actors inhabiting its achingly human characters. Garfield,<br />
best known as the big-screen Spider-Man 2.0, was last seen<br />
on the New York stage six years ago opposite Philip Seymour<br />
Hoffman in Death of a Salesman. In Angels he gives<br />
a blazing performance that captures Prior’s lonely heart and<br />
quicksilver mind, his fear and fury, degradation and dignity.<br />
It’s a performance of crushing honesty and flashing-eyed<br />
camp—an expert drag queen’s take on a tragic 1940s leading<br />
lady. “There’s something about going from girl to woman,”<br />
Garfield says. “He steps into womanhood, and this mature,<br />
feminine energy comes through, and finally he becomes<br />
almost the mother of us all.”<br />
Gough became a star, in England and here, with her volcanic<br />
portrayal of a recovering drug addict in People, Places<br />
& Things. As the depressed, agoraphobic Harper Pitt, she’s<br />
playing another woman who turns to drugs to escape a reality—in<br />
this case, the fact that her straight-arrow husband<br />
is homosexual—that has become too painful to bear. Over<br />
the course of the play, Harper goes from a dazed, frightened<br />
girl to a kind of ghost wandering the streets of New York in<br />
her nightgown to an independent woman who heads to San<br />
Theplayspeaksurgentlytothemomentinwhichwelive—notleastinits warnings<br />
aboutclimatechangeandtheangels’ anti-immigrationrhetoric<br />
other men and a powerful mentor—the closeted right-wing<br />
political hit man Roy Cohn (Lane). Soon Joe and Louis fall<br />
into a tortured affair; Harper starts hallucinating that she’s<br />
visiting the North Pole; Roy finds out that he has AIDS and<br />
is attended to in the hospital by Prior’s best friend, a former<br />
drag queen named Belize (Nathan Stewart-Jarrett) and the<br />
ghost of Ethel Rosenberg (Susan Brown, also excellent as<br />
Joe’s mother, Hannah); and the feverish and terrified Prior is<br />
visited in his bedroom by an angel (Amanda Lawrence) who<br />
declares him a prophet. Then things get surreal.<br />
It’s hard to imagine a better director to bring Angels to a<br />
new generation than Elliott, who, with War Horse and The<br />
Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-time, has shown an<br />
unparalleled gift for poetic stage magic that creates both epic<br />
sweep and psychological illumination. She spent more than<br />
a year immersing herself in the text, studying the history of<br />
the time, and trying to find a way “to merge the reality and the<br />
magic and the ghosts and heaven and hell—how can we show<br />
that actually everybody is interlinked, eventually?”<br />
With set designer Ian MacNeil and lighting designer Paule<br />
Constable, Elliott locates the action in an abstract urban<br />
dreamscape, with scenes blending into each other as the<br />
neon-framed locations glide on and off. The effect is both<br />
fluidly cinematic and resolutely of the stage. (And the way<br />
that costume designer Nicky Gillibrand and the puppet<br />
designers Finn Caldwell and Nick Barnes bring the Angel to<br />
life is both fabulous and terrifying.) “We strip away more and<br />
more, until the characters end up in a sort of empty, magical,<br />
spooky place,” Elliott says. “By the epilogue, nobody can deny<br />
we’re in a theater—we’re concentrated on this one person talking<br />
to us down center about the light that is shining through<br />
Francisco alone to forge a new identity. Gough captures her<br />
bruised fragility and confusion, and her growing self-awareness,<br />
with heartbreaking acuity. “She lives in a world where<br />
she’s expected to put up with what she’s been given because of<br />
her religion and her sex, and she feels trapped,” Gough says.<br />
“It’s just so brave that she really goes to all the scary places<br />
she needs to go to and comes through the struggle bigger and<br />
bolder and stronger and free.”<br />
Lane, of course, has long been established as one of the<br />
great comic actors of our time, but in 2012 he decided that<br />
he had more to offer and tackled the titanic role of Hickey in<br />
Robert Falls’s production of The Iceman Cometh with Brian<br />
Dennehy. He considers taking on Roy Cohn the apotheosis of<br />
that decision, and though he was initially reluctant to spend<br />
seven months in London away from his husband, he realized,<br />
he says, “it’s one of the greatest roles ever written—just one<br />
of those mountains you really want to climb.” Lane prepared<br />
by studying the life of the real Cohn, the weaselly sidekick to<br />
Joseph McCarthy (and prosecutor of Julius and Ethel Rosenberg)<br />
who went on to become a right-wing power broker in a<br />
transparent closet and insisted that he had liver cancer until<br />
the day he died of AIDS. Lane gives a ferocious performance,<br />
capturing Cohn’s black fury and warped humor but also his<br />
puckish charm, fierce intelligence, and desperate loneliness.<br />
“Roy Cohn was a vile human being,” Lane says. “But he was<br />
a human being, and that’s what you have to get to. As awful<br />
a person as he is, you can’t help but be moved, because he’s<br />
terrified and he’s fucking fighting to hold on to his life, and<br />
there’s something kind of admirable about his refusal to die.”<br />
As the mentor of a brash young real estate developer from<br />
Queens, Cohn, of course, was the CONTINUED ON PAGE 172<br />
143<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
FINDING NEVERLAND<br />
“We wanted it to feel very Napa of<br />
another time,” says Alexis of her home.<br />
“But always inspired and theatrical!”<br />
LEFT: Johnny and Delphina Traina and<br />
dog Tony. Hair, Melissa Wagner.<br />
Sittings Editor: Hamish Bowles.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
H A P P Y V A L L E Y<br />
SECRET<br />
GARDEN<br />
Wine-country<br />
views glimpsed<br />
through<br />
the Trainas’<br />
vegetable and<br />
herb garden,<br />
which runs<br />
along the Napa<br />
Valley Wine<br />
Train track.<br />
Alexis and Trevor Traina restored a 100-year-old kit house and grounds to<br />
create a nostalgic family idyll in Napa. Hamish Bowles reports.<br />
Photographed by Oberto Gili.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
SUNNY SIDE UP<br />
BELOW: A majestic live oak tree shelters the<br />
original clapboard water tower in the backyard.<br />
RIGHT: A guest bedroom, painted a vibrant<br />
sunflower yellow, showcases a floral work by<br />
Ira Yeager, a selection of vintage academic<br />
paintings, and a chandelier from a local store.<br />
THE WAY<br />
BACK HOME<br />
“There was a<br />
childlike sense<br />
of wonder about<br />
the whole thing,”<br />
notes interior<br />
designer Ken Fulk<br />
of the property.<br />
RIGHT: The rustic<br />
front porch,<br />
accented by<br />
a vintage-find<br />
globe. FAR RIGHT:<br />
Tranquil views<br />
from a bathroom<br />
decorated with<br />
Gastón y Daniela<br />
wallpaper. Zebrastripe<br />
towels by<br />
D. Porthault.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
Alexis Traina’s childhood vision of<br />
Napa’s famed wine country was<br />
shaped by the Friday evenings<br />
she spent glued to the television<br />
watching Falcon Crest.<br />
“I was mesmerized by it,”<br />
Alexis remembers of the campy<br />
soap opera starring Ronald Reagan’s<br />
first wife, Jane Wyman, as<br />
the Machiavellian matriarch of a winemaking dynasty, and<br />
heartthrob Lorenzo Lamas as her playboy grandson. At the<br />
same time, after successful careers in television, radio, and<br />
newspapers, Alexis’s father, Clarke Swanson, who had been<br />
drawn to Napa since he first discovered it as a student at<br />
Stanford, decided to reinvent himself as a vintner: He and his<br />
wife, the flamboyant New Orleanian Elizabeth Pipes, bought<br />
a 100-acre parcel on the fecund Oakville Appalachian.<br />
Unlike the screen version, as Alexis recalls, “the Napa<br />
of 1983 was not shiny, not glossy. It was just beautiful and<br />
supersleepy, a true agrarian society. All the wineries had tiny<br />
little tasting rooms—it was very simple, humble, and pure.”<br />
She grew to relish the “tapestry of wild, interwoven tribes of<br />
multigenerational families, as well as farmers and winemakers<br />
and chefs, all drawn together to create magic.” Alexis<br />
documents the valley she loves and its colorful denizens in<br />
her engaging new book, From Napa with Love: Who to Know,<br />
Where to Go & What Not to Miss.<br />
Her mother, she says, made sure that “life was about celebrating<br />
the little ceremonies and rituals of the dinner table to<br />
the maximum. As children, we were expected to participate<br />
with gusto.” Chez the Swansons, gatherings generally ended<br />
with late-night tap dancing—the bohemian Mama Swanson<br />
raided Goodwill for interesting footwear to which she added<br />
taps so that all her guests could join in.<br />
Meanwhile, unbeknownst to her, Alexis’s future husband,<br />
start-up entrepreneur Trevor Traina, lived about a mile<br />
down the road, his parents having acquired and restored the<br />
farmhouse of the storied To Kalon vineyard, created in the<br />
late nineteenth century by H. W. Crabb (the original “Wine<br />
King”). For her and Trevor, she notes, “Napa was always a<br />
happy place we shared.”<br />
After graduation, she went to work with her family, latterly<br />
as the creative director of the now-celebrated Swanson<br />
Vineyards. They were sold two years ago, but in the meantime,<br />
Trevor had sleuthed a rustic compound based around an<br />
honest-to-goodness Craftsman Sears kit house of the sort<br />
that sprang up all across America at the turn of the century. Its<br />
original clapboard water tower was shaded by an ancient oak,<br />
with a tack house and vegetable gardens running alongside a<br />
train track that carries the whistling Napa Valley Wine Train,<br />
a period-perfect collection of vintage Pullman cars. “Like my<br />
father,” says Alexis, “Trevor has an extraordinary nose for<br />
finding special places that other people aren’t sure what to<br />
do with. So many people had overlooked it, but we thought<br />
that it would be amazing for our kids and friends—a kind of<br />
glorified, grown-up camp living.”<br />
The Trainas called on their old friend San Francisco decorating<br />
impresario Ken Fulk to transform the interiors. “We<br />
share a joie de vivre, a romantic idea about the world,” says<br />
the dapper Fulk, “and a wonderful sense of nostalgia.”<br />
The trio first collaborated on “a CONTINUED ON PAGE 172<br />
147<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
Bi<br />
g<br />
The<br />
East<br />
As the<br />
culinary world<br />
swoons over<br />
authentic<br />
I AM PERIODICALLY GRIPPED BY A<br />
desire to learn to cook something new. This<br />
is an admirable impulse, a virtuous impulse,<br />
a laudable impulse, especially at 40—if I<br />
were Victorian I’d be the matriarch of two<br />
generations; if I were a late-medieval I’d be<br />
in my funeral shroud. It is to my credit that<br />
I learn new tricks.<br />
That, anyway, is the speech I deliver in<br />
a loud stage whisper—hoping that my<br />
husband is eavesdropping from the living<br />
room—while standing on a wobbly bar stool<br />
trying to secure a very large, very pale (very<br />
dead) air-chilled duck to a bungee cord tied<br />
to the clamp of our toddler’s bouncy swing<br />
in the dining-room door frame.<br />
What has led to this scene? The renaissance of Chinese<br />
food in America! Dining around New York recently, I have<br />
fallen under the spell of excellent dian xin (dim sum) from<br />
Hong Kong (at Tim Ho Wan) and Taiwan (at Pinch). I have<br />
sampled mouth-tingling mapo tofu from Sichuan, delicate<br />
mi fen from Guangxi, and irresistible crossing-the-bridge<br />
noodles from Yunnan—at Western Yunnan Crossing Bridge<br />
Noodle and the new Yun Nan Flavour Garden, both in<br />
Brooklyn. And oh—the subtle Cantonese snacks at Nom<br />
Wah! And the American mash-up of psychedelic nightclub<br />
and Chinese regional at Mission Chinese Food! (Chong<br />
qing chicken wings, tingly sour soup, steak tartare, and caviar<br />
service beneath an installation of kites by Jacob Hashimoto,<br />
anyone? Yes, please!)<br />
Indeed, the cyclone of interest in all things culinary and<br />
Chinese is inescapable. In a single month last fall I received,<br />
from assorted publishers, four new Chinese cookbooks,<br />
including the excellent Land of Fish and Rice, by Fuchsia<br />
Dunlop, exclusively on the cuisine of the lower Yangtze,<br />
plus a useful history of Chinese food in America by Anne<br />
Mendelson called Chow Chop Suey. An exhibition on Chinese<br />
American restaurants—reached through a hanging wall<br />
of thousands of Chinese take-out containers—has been on<br />
view at Brooklyn’s Museum of Food and Drink for more<br />
than a year. As Dunlop tells me, “Twenty years ago, China<br />
was still closed off. In the late 1990s, my Sichuan book, Land<br />
of Plenty, was rejected by six publishers as ‘too marginal, too<br />
regional.’ ” Land of Fish and Rice is her fourth cookbook.<br />
regional Chinese<br />
cooking,<br />
Tamar Adler sets<br />
out to re-create a<br />
beloved dish<br />
from childhood:<br />
Peking<br />
duckwith all the<br />
trimmings.<br />
Photographed by<br />
Grant Cornett<br />
“Now people are thinking of Chinese food in<br />
a different context,” she says. “Chinese food<br />
is on the map.”<br />
My enthusiasm is keeping pace and finding<br />
expression in my first sortie on Peking<br />
duck. This, to my mind, is the apogee of<br />
Chinese food, an estimation that is entirely<br />
personal (Dunlop, for example, would probably<br />
argue that the apogee is cold jelly in<br />
spicy sauce, or eight-treasure stuffed calabash<br />
duck). But for me, growing up in New York<br />
City in the 1980s, an elaborate Peking-duck<br />
dinner was a special event, held annually by<br />
my grandfather, who would summon us to<br />
a dark room somewhere in Chinatown. The<br />
waiters wore tuxedos—or perhaps black<br />
suits, though I prefer tuxedos—and Shirley Temples flowed<br />
like water. No one in my family recalls the name of the subterranean<br />
banquet hall. But I do remember the ghoulish<br />
sight of a duck head on a platter, and how, at my first bite,<br />
the fragrant skin crackled like Mylar. The silver saucers of<br />
Mandarin pancakes seemed bottomless. The hoisin sauce<br />
was tart, the scallions curled and crisp. It was perfection.<br />
Luckily I have a recipe in hand, believed to be one of the<br />
earliest in writing, from the fourteenth-century Yinshan<br />
Zhengyao: The Proper and Essential Things for the Emperor’s<br />
Food and Drink. It is appealingly short—six and a half<br />
lines—which makes the whole project seem really quite doable.<br />
But then I hit a snag. My shopping list: “duck; ¼ pound<br />
onions; 2 ounces of ground coriander; sheep stomach, skin<br />
attached . . . ?” I wonder: a) Does my grocery store have sheep<br />
stomach?; b) Would a Staub or Le Creuset be better? and c)<br />
Should I find a more recent recipe?<br />
But none of my new Chinese cookbooks contains a recipe,<br />
not because Peking duck isn’t a classic but because it isn’t as<br />
regional and on-trend as, say, Ningbo rice cake. I do find a<br />
recipe for Nanjing duck—but Nanjing duck is not Peking<br />
duck. A variation on camphor-tea duck from Carolyn Phillips’s<br />
All Under Heaven (Ten Speed Press, 2016) sounds likely<br />
to produce what I’m after, but it comprises two intimidating<br />
pages of text describing cleaning, pressing, massaging, smoking,<br />
steaming, and deep frying.<br />
I put all the books away and decide to eat out. I will flood<br />
my palate with the flavors and CONTINUED ON PAGE 173<br />
PROP STYLIST: NOEMI BONAZZI. FOOD STYLIST: VICTORIA GRANOFF.<br />
MADE IN CHINA<br />
In today’s cosmopolitan Chinese-restaurant scene, old-fashioned preparations are out. The go-to dishes are hyper-regional:<br />
Yunnanese noodles, subtle Cantonese bar snacks, Sichuan fish soups, dry fries, fiery mapo tofu, and the like.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
T R U E<br />
C O L O R S<br />
Former model and<strong>Vogue</strong>columnist<br />
Audrey Smaltz reflects on how a<br />
once-marginalized community is redefining<br />
the beauty industry.<br />
was born in 1937, bred, toasted,<br />
buttered, jellied, jammed,<br />
I<br />
and honeyed in Harlem. Now,<br />
when people introduce me and<br />
they try to say that, they get it<br />
all mixed up. But that’s who I<br />
am. I still put my foundation on<br />
with my fingers and I blend, like<br />
I was taught in charm school<br />
when I was sixteen, even though<br />
everybody’s using a sponge now and watching tutorials.<br />
Back then, there was really only one woman making cosmetics<br />
for black skin. She was based in Detroit, and her name<br />
was Carmen Murphy. We would press and curl our hair with<br />
a hot comb and an iron so it was straight, like a white girl’s,<br />
and we would buy Carmen Murphy’s foundations direct<br />
from one of the instructors at the Ophelia DeVore School<br />
of Charm. If we couldn’t get it, we would go downtown to<br />
buy Max Factor from a shop in the Theater District where<br />
the makeup artists used to buy pigments for the actors on<br />
Broadway. And we would just keep mixing one, two, or three<br />
different shades until we got the color we wanted. You can<br />
imagine my surprise when I went to Sephora the other day<br />
for my granddaughter, who is eighteen, and every cosmetics<br />
company seemed to have a range of shades from black to<br />
black-brown to “maple”—a far cry from what we had when<br />
I started modeling. You had to take care of yourself because<br />
the options were so limited.<br />
Most magazines didn’t start using black models until<br />
the sixties, so I mostly worked for companies such as Dixie<br />
Peach and Camel cigarettes. I got a job as a model in the<br />
loungewear department at Bloomingdale’s and became an<br />
assistant buyer before moving to CONTINUED ON PAGE 174<br />
EVERYTHING IS ILLUMINATED<br />
For decades, women of color have called for makeup<br />
that reflects the full spectrum of skin tones. With a new generation<br />
of inclusive products and brand founders, the market is<br />
finally catching up. Untitled (Putting on make up), by Carrie Mae<br />
Weems, from the artist’s Kitchen Table Series, 1990–1999.<br />
CARRIE MAE WEEMS. © CARRIE MAE WEEMS. UNTITLED (PUTTING ON MAKE UP), 1990–1999.<br />
GELATIN SILVER PRINT. COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND JACK SHAINMAN GALLERY, NEW YORK.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
ANIMAL<br />
MAGNETISM<br />
Jacquemus<br />
at his home in<br />
Mallemort with a<br />
four-legged friend<br />
and (CLOCKWISE<br />
FROM NEAR RIGHT)<br />
his cousin Jean,<br />
grandmother Liline,<br />
sister Maëlle, and<br />
cousin Louis.<br />
Fashion Editor:<br />
Camilla Nickerson.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
Simon Porte<br />
Jacquemus<br />
emerged from<br />
small-town<br />
Provence to take<br />
the Paris fashion<br />
world by storm.<br />
Five years after<br />
breaking out with<br />
Jacquemus, he’s<br />
still inspired by<br />
his family, still<br />
listening to his<br />
friends—and<br />
still doing things<br />
his own way.<br />
By Lynn Yaeger.<br />
Simon Says<br />
Photographed by<br />
Zoe Ghertner.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
xactly two hours and 40 minutes,”<br />
Simon Porte Jacquemus replies,<br />
without blinking an eye, when you<br />
ask him how long it takes from the<br />
moment the fast train pulls out<br />
of Avignon, near his tiny hometown<br />
of Mallemort in southeastern<br />
France, until it reaches Paris’s<br />
Gare de Lyon. How can a mere<br />
clock, though, measure the distance<br />
in sorrow and joy, triumph<br />
and talent, that unites Jacquemus’s<br />
two families?<br />
For the 28-year-old fashion designer,<br />
the TGV is not just a rail<br />
line but a lifeline—one that connects<br />
his biological relatives, still<br />
ensconced in the village where he grew up, and the gang<br />
he refers to as his Paris family, with whom we are sharing<br />
a boozy lunch in a bistro a few blocks from Jacquemus’s<br />
studio, just across the Canal Saint-Martin. The vin rouge is<br />
flowing, and everyone is laughing and teasing one another.<br />
Jacquemus’s closest friends are here, the people who have<br />
supported and encouraged him since<br />
the earliest days of his Paris life, including<br />
the model and influencer Jeanne<br />
Damas, whose famous mouth—her<br />
pout is an Instagram legend—is today<br />
bearing down on a plate of rare boeuf.<br />
Jacquemus first met Damas, and<br />
nearly everyone else here, through social<br />
media, which has at times functioned<br />
as a kind of second family<br />
for him. But if he currently occupies<br />
a flat in the Bastille, he still resides a<br />
good deal of the time in Mallemort—<br />
at least in his imagination. Since his<br />
first breakout collection, shown in an<br />
empty swimming pool in 2013 with his<br />
friends as models, Jacquemus has been<br />
wrestling with memory, pouring his deeply personal story<br />
straight onto his runway, unmediated by self-consciousness.<br />
In the five short years since, the designer has become the<br />
toast of the City of Light, considered by many the brightest<br />
star among the newest members of the French fashion firmament.<br />
(His business, which he began by himself, now employs<br />
30 people.) And he did it all by defying convention—by listening<br />
to his friends and his heart, not thinking for a minute<br />
about courting corporate backing. Instead of breaking into<br />
the business the old way—getting a degree, interning for a major<br />
designer, and taking baby steps toward building his own<br />
label—Jacquemus burst onto the scene using a very clever<br />
(and enormously popular, with more than 360,000 followers)<br />
Instagram account depicting a dream life of cheerful sexiness<br />
and shameless self-portraiture, along with a series of frisky<br />
runway shows, to spread his message. (He was among the first<br />
to tell his Instagram tales with three related images: “I thought<br />
it was stronger than a classic patchwork,” he explains.)<br />
The sunshine of southern France may flow from Jacquemus’s<br />
heart and suffuse his twisted and deconstructed shirtdresses,<br />
his off-kilter linen coats, and his nipped-in waists, but<br />
“When I was<br />
growing up,<br />
everyone was trying<br />
to be American,<br />
wearing caps and<br />
listening to hip-hop,”<br />
Jacquemus says.<br />
“I wanted to be like<br />
Serge Gainsbourg”<br />
there is also a touch of melancholia in his work. When he was<br />
eighteen, his beloved mother, Valérie, the light of his life, was<br />
killed in a car accident, and for his spring <strong>2018</strong> show she was,<br />
as ever, on his mind.<br />
“I just want to tell something about happiness,” he says.<br />
“This collection began slowly, from memories from my<br />
childhood—of seeing my mother after the beach, really<br />
happy.” (Held on a Monday night, at the start of Paris<br />
Fashion Week, the show was considered a breakthrough,<br />
with the audience including Fanny Ardant, Giancarlo<br />
Giammetti, and even the 95-year-old Pierre Cardin, all of<br />
them clearly interested in what the new guy had to say.) In<br />
a sense, though, Jacquemus’s entire fashion career serves<br />
as a tribute to his mother’s style and spirit. A flea-market<br />
fanatic, the designer was wandering dreamily around the<br />
Marché Saint-Pierre near Montmartre nearly a decade ago,<br />
thinking about her, when he caught sight of a seamstress in a<br />
curtain shop. “I asked her how much would it cost to make<br />
a skirt,” he says. “She told me 150. I asked her, please could<br />
she make it for 100. The next day I came back with the fabric<br />
and the drawing of the skirt. This was how I started my first<br />
collection—it was very spontaneous and fun.”<br />
It was not the first skirt in his history. According to his maternal<br />
grandmother, Liline, whom he is<br />
incredibly close to—she comes up to Paris<br />
for all of his shows—“He was a special<br />
child, always happy and smiling, dancing<br />
or dressing himself up, always with an<br />
obsession for costume. He wanted to<br />
do a thousand things and never left his<br />
mother alone. He once made a skirt out<br />
of a curtain for her. She wore it to pick<br />
him up at school, and she was so proud.”<br />
Unlike so many small-town strivers,<br />
Jacquemus never longed to be someone<br />
else, or from someplace else. “All around<br />
me while I was growing up, everyone<br />
was trying to be American, wearing<br />
caps and listening to hip-hop,” he says.<br />
“I wanted to be like Serge Gainsbourg.”<br />
And indeed, his creations are almost stereotypically French,<br />
from the loose, deeply cuffed trousers to the voluminous<br />
sleeves to the hourglass silhouettes. Not since Christian Lacroix,<br />
who grew up nearby, has such a purely Gallic sensibility<br />
come barreling down a catwalk.<br />
Jacquemus learned the ropes working at the Comme<br />
des Garçons store on the Rue du Faubourg Saint-<br />
Honoré, creating his own collections in his off-hours. Adrian<br />
Joffe, the founder and president of Dover Street Market<br />
and husband of Comme des Garçons’ Rei Kawakubo,<br />
remembers the designer from his days on the shop floor.<br />
Joffe, who has an eye for nascent talent—he nurtured<br />
Gosha Rubchinskiy, among other transgressive wunderkinder—says<br />
that he was sold on Jacquemus from the first.<br />
“I recognized immediately a freshness and an originality,<br />
but most important a strong vision. I have never met anyone<br />
so determined, so grounded, and so clear in his head<br />
about what he wants to do and what he wants to achieve.”<br />
Jacquemus was a child actor and a model; when he was<br />
eight, he wrote to Jean Paul Gaultier—another Frenchman<br />
whose saucy irreverence is a major influence—offering his<br />
154<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
COURTESY OF SIMON PORTE JACQUEMUS<br />
services as a stylist. “You know what was my argument in the<br />
letter? ‘At my age, I will be the youngest stylist—so maybe you<br />
will have a lot of publicity around that,’ ” he recalls, laughing.<br />
A budding cineast, he was always making films, sometimes<br />
starring his three-year-old cousin Louis dressed in the earliest<br />
Jacquemus creations. “The image was always something I was<br />
into—from the very beginning, it was really clear to me that<br />
every collection would have a title like a French film.” Jacquemus<br />
still does all the visual merchandising, art direction, and<br />
ad campaigns for the brand himself, and he says these tasks<br />
are among his greatest pleasures. “At the beginning, when I<br />
had no money to make clothes that were really precise, the<br />
storytelling was stronger than the clothing,” he says. “Everything<br />
was telling a story of this French girl—not the Parisian<br />
girl but the French girl.”<br />
And while he may be young, he is the furthest thing from a<br />
sullen artiste scribbling and draping with no concern for his<br />
audience. Virtually everything on his catwalk is on the racks<br />
at his showroom. “With every collection, I’m finding the right<br />
balance between conceptual and spatial and something that’s<br />
wearable,” Jacquemus says. “It’s really important to me to be<br />
true to my market.” His market—his fans—are young people<br />
like himself: people who grew up with the internet and don’t<br />
remember any other way of communicating.<br />
Like so many of his generation, Jacquemus seems to<br />
find the unexamined life not only not worth living but unimaginable.<br />
He and Damas began swapping videos when<br />
she was thirteen, he fifteen. “We were doing little stories<br />
with Tumblr—I think we were in love a little bit,” she tells<br />
me at our bistro lunch. The only person here he didn’t get<br />
to know through social media is his chum Marion Amadeo,<br />
now the designer’s right hand, whom he met on the<br />
elementary school playground. The pint-size polymath<br />
was featured in a car commercial, and Amadeo simply<br />
walked up to him and said, “Are you that kid in the ad?”<br />
“Yes, that’s me!” Jacquemus replied with the same supreme<br />
self-confidence—not cockiness or conceit but an aura of<br />
pride and accomplishment—that he still exhibits today. And<br />
while the others may have found one another in cyberspace,<br />
they are now close comrades in the flesh. Pierre-Ange Carlotti,<br />
a photographer born in Corsica, collaborates regularly<br />
with Jacquemus, and Fabien Joubert, who corresponded with<br />
the designer online for four or five years before they met, is<br />
now the company’s commercial director. He and Jacquemus<br />
shared a flat in the early days, a place Joubert describes as “a<br />
cave with a storefront in Montmartre, with the living room<br />
on the street.” When I ask Jacquemus if he was disconcerted<br />
to be on full view to passersby, he says no way: “I liked people<br />
to see me!” (Today Jacquemus lives by the Seine, in a flat he<br />
describes as “full of colors: an orange sofa atop a blue carpet<br />
with red and yellow drawings on the walls. My floor is stacked<br />
with books I’ve collected; my kitchen counter is covered with<br />
ceramics I’ve found at the flea market. At the moment, I am<br />
obsessed with very weird eighties Italian Plexiglas lamps.”)<br />
There is, though, one member of the inner circle missing<br />
from the table, only because he lives in Brooklyn: Jacquemus’s<br />
boyfriend, the filmmaker and photographer Gordon<br />
von Steiner—and yes, they originally met when the<br />
designer, admiring von Steiner’s work, reached out to him<br />
over the internet. “It’s very intense and full of poetry,” Jacquemus<br />
muses when he is asked about the romance. “How to<br />
be even closer to him while I’m on the other side of the<br />
world is the question—but I have had more long-distance<br />
relationships with boys who were living in my own town.<br />
The long distance is not what you see but what you feel.”<br />
The writer and documentarian Loïc Prigent was struck<br />
from the very beginning by the designer’s sweetness and honesty—a<br />
rarity in what Prigent calls “this sometimes way-toojaded<br />
scene.” He was touched by how comfortable Jacquemus<br />
was with his country roots. “He was proud of his grandmother’s<br />
donkey!” Prigent says. “When he appeared, he was<br />
not just thinking outside of the box—there was absolutely no<br />
box. He had no fashion education, no fashion skills learned in<br />
a school, no fashion-system knowledge. His energy is so overwhelming,<br />
so real and genuine—and his clothes are sexy in a<br />
way no avant-garde label is; it’s never trashy, never too much.”<br />
Jacquemus is now telling this tale directly to his audience<br />
not only through social media but with witty presentations.<br />
He once provided hospital smocks for the audience to wear—<br />
so that they would not be distracted by one another’s outfits<br />
LET THERE BE LOVE<br />
Jacquemus with his late mother<br />
(and muse for the spring <strong>2018</strong> collection), Valérie.<br />
but would, rather, keep their gaze fixed on the catwalk. For<br />
the spring 2016 collection, Jacquemus, barefoot and clad in<br />
white, led a pale horse around a circular runway. For spring<br />
<strong>2018</strong>, arguably his breakthrough presentation, he made straw<br />
hats so vast they looked like boaters on steroids. “They sold<br />
out four times!” he says, beaming. “The factory wasn’t able<br />
to do more, because they ran out of straw.”<br />
There is a unique mix of confidence and wonderment that<br />
comes with this kind of early success—when you can feel at<br />
once destined for greatness and frankly stunned that you are<br />
getting anywhere at all. “I knew it would happen—I knew it<br />
was my life,” Jacquemus says, reflecting quietly on the trajectory<br />
of his last few years. “But at the same time, I still have so<br />
many things to tell, so many obsessions and stories! It’s the<br />
beginning for me.” □<br />
155<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
FIELD DAY<br />
FROM FAR LEFT:<br />
Models Manuela<br />
Sanchez, Shanelle<br />
Nyasiase, and Aya<br />
Jones. All clothes<br />
and accessories by<br />
Jacquemus. In<br />
this story: hair,<br />
Damien Boissinot;<br />
makeup, Susie<br />
Sobol. Details, see<br />
In This Issue.<br />
PRODUCED BY XAVIER WAKEFIELD FOR JAKE PRODUCTIONS<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
MOMENT OF THE MONTH<br />
H O M E<br />
OFF THE GRID<br />
Take windowpane<br />
checks out for a spin—<br />
and be prepared to stop<br />
traffic. Model Caroline<br />
Trentini (NEAR RIGHT)<br />
wears a J.Crew cardigan,<br />
$118; jcrew.com. Fendi<br />
dress, $1,600; fendi.<br />
com. Hat Attack hat.<br />
Bracelets by Hermès<br />
and Ben-Amun by Isaac<br />
Manevitz. Céline bag.<br />
Model Fei Fei Sun (FAR<br />
RIGHT) wears a Lands’<br />
End cardigan, $169;<br />
landsend.com. Miu<br />
Miu dress; select Miu<br />
Miu boutiques. Hat<br />
Attack hat. Necklaces<br />
by Tiffany & Co. and<br />
Miriam Haskell. Alexis<br />
Bittar bracelets. Michael<br />
Kors Collection bag.<br />
Fashion Editor:<br />
Benjamin Bruno.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
S P U N<br />
RUNNING FOR<br />
THE ROSES<br />
Spring’s centerpiece<br />
trend? Putting petals<br />
to the mettle on<br />
feminine frocks. On<br />
Trentini: Alessandra<br />
Rich shirt ($785)<br />
and skirt ($1,030);<br />
brownsfashion.com.<br />
Salvatore Ferragamo<br />
bag. Model Joan Smalls<br />
(FAR RIGHT) wears<br />
a Dolce & Gabbana<br />
dress; select Dolce &<br />
Gabbana boutiques.<br />
Necklaces by Kenneth<br />
Jay Lane and David<br />
Yurman. Kate Spade<br />
New York bag.<br />
PRINTS ONCE<br />
RELEGATED<br />
TO AROUND-<br />
THE-HOUSE<br />
USE—WHETHER<br />
PLASTERED<br />
ON A WALL<br />
OR FRONTING<br />
A CHEF’S<br />
APRON—SHONE<br />
GLORIOUSLY<br />
ON THE SPRING<br />
RUNWAYS.<br />
PHOTOGRAPHED BY<br />
CRAIG MCDEAN.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
MOMENT OF THE MONTH<br />
HOW DOES YOUR<br />
GARDEN GROW?<br />
Organic appliqués are<br />
taking root atop romantic<br />
ruffled dresses. Model<br />
Cara Taylor (FAR LEFT)<br />
wears an Erdem dress,<br />
$4,485; Neiman Marcus<br />
stores. Van Cleef & Arpels<br />
earrings. Kenneth Jay Lane<br />
necklace and bracelet.<br />
Roger Vivier bag. On Sun:<br />
Erdem dress, $3,880;<br />
mytheresa.com. Necklaces<br />
by Effy Jewelry and David<br />
Yurman. Van Cleef & Arpels<br />
brooch. Stalvey bag. On<br />
both: Reebok sneakers.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
SET DESIGN, GERARD SANTOS<br />
GINGHAM<br />
STYLE<br />
With a little help from<br />
Loewe’s Jonathan<br />
Anderson, this picnic<br />
favorite (rendered in<br />
a medley of pretty<br />
pastels) is primed for<br />
liftoff. Model Karen<br />
Elson (FAR LEFT) and<br />
Trentini both wear<br />
Loewe; loewe.com.<br />
On Elson: Tiffany &<br />
Co. necklace. In this<br />
story: hair, Orlando<br />
Pita for Orlando Pita<br />
Play; makeup, Peter<br />
Philips for Dior. Details,<br />
see In This Issue.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
CAPHED<br />
PLACEMENTK<br />
CAPTION A DUMMY<br />
VEROT EOS METS<br />
HACUSMUS ET BUSTO<br />
ODIO DIGNIS STIMOS<br />
BLANDITIIS PRAESE<br />
NATIUM VOLUP<br />
TATUM DELENITI<br />
GATQUE DOSDLORES<br />
ET QUAS MOLESTIAS<br />
EXCEPTURS CSUNT IN<br />
CULPA RUIT OFFICIA<br />
DESERUNT MOLLITIA<br />
ANIMGID EST<br />
LABORUM ET DORUM<br />
TOEING THE LINE<br />
TAKE NOTE: THOUGH THEY’RE MADE FOR WALKING, THEY LOOK<br />
JUST AS CHIC AT EASE. FROM FAR LEFT: MODEL SELENA FORREST<br />
WEARS SALVATORE FERRAGAMO BOOTS, $2,300; (866) 337-7242.<br />
BALENCIAGA SWEATER ($1,450) AND SKIRT ($1,550). SWEATER AT<br />
SSENSE.COM. SKIRT AT JEFFREY, ATLANTA. ACNE STUDIOS TOP,<br />
$450; ACNESTUDIOS.COM. MODEL GRACE HARTZEL WEARS COACH<br />
1941 BOOTS AND SKIRT ($995); COACH.COM. MICHAEL KORS<br />
COLLECTION SWEATER, $1,550; SELECT MICHAEL KORS STORES.<br />
FASHION EDITOR: ALEX HARRINGTON.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
CLEAN<br />
SLATE<br />
A STRIKING LOOK—SAY,<br />
WHITE-HOT HEELED<br />
BOOTS, OPEN-ANKLED<br />
AND UNABASHEDLY<br />
EMBELLISHED—WORKS<br />
FROM THE SOLE ON<br />
UP. ON HARTZEL (NEAR<br />
RIGHT): CHRISTOPHER<br />
KANE BOOTS, $1,545;<br />
CHRISTOPHERKANE<br />
.COM. MAISON MARGIELA<br />
SHIRT, $2,595; MAISON<br />
MARGIELA BOUTIQUES.<br />
DRIES VAN NOTEN SKIRT,<br />
$590; BARNEYS NEW<br />
YORK, NYC. ON FORREST<br />
(FAR RIGHT): MAISON<br />
MARGIELA BOOTS<br />
($1,390), TRENCH COAT<br />
($2,990), SKIRT ($1,890),<br />
AND BELT; MAISON<br />
MARGIELA BOUTIQUES.<br />
FROM<br />
THE FRONT<br />
ROW<br />
TO BEHIND<br />
THESCENES,<br />
HIGHLY<br />
ADORNED,<br />
ANKLE-<br />
GRAZING<br />
BOOTS ARE<br />
RUNNING<br />
THESHOW.<br />
PHOTOGRAPHED<br />
BY THEO WENNER.<br />
B O O T C A M P<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
GLAM SLAM<br />
LAYER IT ALL ON:<br />
THE FACE, THE<br />
FLIRTY DRESS—AND<br />
THE STATEMENT<br />
PYTHON-PRINT<br />
BOOTS THAT FEEL<br />
LIKE SECOND SKIN.<br />
CHLOÉ BOOTS<br />
($1,640) AND DRESS<br />
($4,295). BOOTS AT<br />
CHLOE.COM. DRESS<br />
AT SAKS.COM.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
STAND AND<br />
DELIVER<br />
RED-HOT LEATHER-<br />
AND-SNAKESKIN<br />
BOOTS—TIPPED<br />
WITH JUST A TOUCH<br />
OF THE WILD AND<br />
EXOTIC—GIVE A<br />
DELICATE LACE DRESS<br />
A DEVILISH KICK.<br />
GIVENCHY BOOTS<br />
($1,695) AND DRESS;<br />
GIVENCHY, NYC.<br />
CAPHED<br />
PLACEMENTK<br />
CAPTION A DUMMY<br />
VEROT EOS METS<br />
HACUSMUS ET BUSTO<br />
ODIO DIGNIS STIMOS<br />
BLANDITIIS PRAESE<br />
NATIUM VOLUP<br />
TATUM DELENITI<br />
GATQUE DOSDLORES<br />
ET QUAS MOLESTIAS<br />
EXCEPTURS CSUNT IN<br />
CULPA RUIT OFFICIA<br />
DESERUNT MOLLITIA<br />
ANIMGID EST<br />
LABORUM 165 ET DORUM<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
THE WAITING<br />
GAME<br />
BACKSTAGE, A<br />
MULTIVALENT<br />
MASH-UP OF PRINTS<br />
AND TEXTURES<br />
REVERBERATES<br />
WITH ECLECTIC CHIC.<br />
DIOR BOOTS; SELECT<br />
DIOR BOUTIQUES.<br />
PRADA TOP ($640),<br />
SHIRT ($640),<br />
AND SKIRT ($890);<br />
SELECT PRADA<br />
BOUTIQUES. CÉLINE<br />
EARRINGS. CALVIN<br />
KLEIN 205W39NYC<br />
BOOT, $1,995;<br />
CALVIN KLEIN, NYC.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
WALK<br />
THIS WAY<br />
HITTING THE RUNWAY<br />
(OR REAL LIFE) IS<br />
ALWAYS A LITTLE<br />
MORE FUN IN HIGH-<br />
POLISH HEELS AND<br />
LOUCHE PARACHUTE<br />
SILHOUETTES.<br />
CÉLINE BOOTS,<br />
$1,250; CÉLINE, NYC.<br />
MARNI TOP ($2,020),<br />
SKIRT ($1,440),<br />
AND EARRINGS;<br />
MARNI BOUTIQUES.<br />
BEAUTY NOTE<br />
TURN HEADS WITH<br />
A BOLD, BRIGHT<br />
MOUTH. MARC<br />
JACOBS’S LE MARC<br />
LIQUID LIP CRAYON<br />
IN HOW ROUGE!<br />
PROVIDES INTENSE<br />
COLOR WITH A LONG-<br />
LASTING FINISH.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
POWER<br />
PLAYERS<br />
THE BEST OF BOTH<br />
WORLDS: FAMILIAR<br />
FOOTWEAR<br />
RENDERED ANEW<br />
IN SHOWSTOPPING<br />
PRINTS. ON HARTZEL:<br />
DRIES VAN NOTEN<br />
BOOTS ($850) AND<br />
DRESS ($1,765).<br />
BOOTS AT BARNEYS<br />
NEW YORK, NYC.<br />
DRESS AT BERGDORF<br />
GOODMAN, NYC.<br />
ON FORREST: PACO<br />
RABANNE BOOTS,<br />
$1,150; JUSTONEEYE.<br />
COM. GABRIELE<br />
COLANGELO TOP<br />
AND SKIRT; GABRIELE<br />
COLANGELO.COM.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
SET DESIGN, CHIME SERRA. PRODUCED BY AARON ZUMBACK WITH CAMP PRODUCTIONS.<br />
LOUD AND<br />
CLEAR<br />
PUT YOUR BEST<br />
FOOT FORWARD<br />
THIS SEASON IN<br />
PEEKABOO PVC.<br />
CALVIN KLEIN<br />
205W39NYC BOOTS<br />
($1,595), SHIRT<br />
($990), AND SKIRT<br />
($2,100); CALVIN<br />
KLEIN, NYC. IN THIS<br />
STORY: HAIR, RECINE<br />
FOR RODIN; MAKEUP,<br />
FARA HOMIDI.<br />
SPECIAL THANKS<br />
TO CHATEAU<br />
MARMONT. DETAILS,<br />
SEE IN THIS ISSUE.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
Index<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
1<br />
2<br />
EDIE CAMPBELL: PETER LINDBERGH, VOGUE, 2013. 10: TIM HOUT. 13: LIAM GOODMAN.<br />
ALL OTHERS: COURTESY OF BRANDS/WEBSITES. DETAILS, SEE IN THIS ISSUE.<br />
3<br />
14<br />
13<br />
positivelyalluring.<br />
170<br />
VOGUE FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong><br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
12
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
4<br />
5<br />
10<br />
6<br />
11<br />
9<br />
8<br />
7<br />
1. ALEJANDRA ALONSO ROJAS DRESS; FORMATION, VAIL, COLORADO.<br />
2. ETRO BAG, $1,310; ETRO.COM. 3. ELI HALILI RING; ELI HALILI, NYC.<br />
4. GRAINNE MORTON EARRINGS, $750; GRAINNEMORTON.CO.UK.<br />
5. BROCK COLLECTION TOP, $1,690; MODAOPERANDI.COM. 6. LOUIS<br />
VUITTON ROSE DES VENTS, $240; LOUISVUITTON.COM. 7. MARNI SKIRT;<br />
MODAOPERANDI.COM. 8. MARK CROSS BAG; MARKCROSS.COM. 9. JOHN<br />
DERIAN X ASTIER DE VILLATTE COFFEEPOT, $460; JOHNDERIAN.COM.<br />
10. FLOWER ARRANGEMENT BY STEMME FATALE, $85; STEMMEFATALE<br />
.COM. 11. TOM FORD BOYS & GIRLS LIP COLOR IN INES, $36; TOMFORD<br />
.COM. 12. MANOLO BLAHNIK SHOE, $1,055; BERGDORF GOODMAN, NYC.<br />
13. LORI STERN SIGNATURE COOKIES, $48 PER DOZEN; LORIASTERN.COM.<br />
14. UNTITLED HOMEWARE DESSERT PLATE, $34; BARNEYS.COM.<br />
VOGUE FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong><br />
171<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
THE ESCAPE ARTIST<br />
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 68<br />
sense of who I was. If drinking loosened<br />
me from the cloister of my body, then<br />
running involved inhabiting that body<br />
fully: sweat pooling in my collarbone,<br />
flattening my hair to my skull, coating<br />
my shins in layers of dust and grime.<br />
Buried in that early drinking, of course,<br />
were the seeds of what it would eventually<br />
become: a hunger for release that<br />
verged more fully into self-forgetting;<br />
nights spent kneeling at toilets and<br />
mornings spent piecing together what<br />
those nights had held. By the time I finally<br />
stopped drinking entirely, at the<br />
age of 27, it had come to feel like the<br />
opposite of freedom.<br />
But in those early days, running and<br />
drinking satisfied the same craving.<br />
They both allowed me to forget the rigid<br />
contours of the person I’d convinced<br />
myself I would always be: silent and<br />
fearful, ashamed of my thoughts and<br />
my shadow and the smell of my own<br />
breath. In those clearings of forgetting,<br />
they delivered me to that simple truth<br />
that can seem—when you are young—<br />
both overwhelmingly real and also impossible<br />
to accept: I didn’t exist in any<br />
fixed or static way. I was in flux. Running<br />
and drinking let me feel that flux<br />
as something coursing through my veins<br />
and sinews and burning calves. I needed<br />
to be released from that defining sense<br />
of self in order to meet the other selves<br />
that were in there, waiting. □<br />
LOVE ALL<br />
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 114<br />
whose mission is to nurture a more<br />
diverse and inclusive corps of future<br />
leaders. “I’ve been telling people that<br />
I think Serena, with her prowess and<br />
her platform, can do more than I ever<br />
dreamed of—not just for women or<br />
for people of color but for all people,”<br />
says King. “I’ve been trying to figure<br />
out who I’m going to pass the torch<br />
to. Serena’s speaking like a leader and<br />
talking about making a difference in the<br />
world. Personally I’d like to see her get<br />
into politics. Why not run for president?<br />
But first I’d like to see her break every<br />
record—to be the big kahuna.”<br />
For guests at Serena and Alexis’s<br />
wedding, on a Thursday last November<br />
at New Orleans’s Contemporary<br />
Arts Center, it was hard not to be<br />
knocked over by the collective power<br />
of the assembled women, among them<br />
Beyoncé Knowles, Caroline Wozniacki,<br />
Eva Longoria, Kim Kardashian West,<br />
and Ciara. The Tony Award–winning<br />
singer-actress Cynthia Erivo delivered<br />
a knockout rendition of “(You Make<br />
Me Feel Like) A Natural Woman” at<br />
the reception. “I never wanted a traditional<br />
wedding,” Serena says. “I wanted<br />
a strong wedding.”<br />
Strength is much more than a mere<br />
physical detail for Serena Williams; it is<br />
a guiding principle. She had it in mind<br />
last summer as she considered what to<br />
call her baby, Googling names that derive<br />
from words for strong in a mix of<br />
languages before settling on something<br />
Greek. But with Olympia home and<br />
healthy and the wedding behind her, it’s<br />
time to shift focus to her day job. She<br />
knows that she’s hurtling toward immortality,<br />
and she doesn’t take it lightly.<br />
“I’ve been playing tennis since before<br />
my memories started,” she says. “At my<br />
age, I see the finish line. And when you<br />
see the finish line, you don’t slow down.<br />
You speed up.” □<br />
AMERICAN BEAUTY<br />
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 143<br />
man who in many ways gave us Donald<br />
Trump (“That was his one last Fuck<br />
you on the way out,” Lane says). It’s<br />
a cruel irony that gives Angels a particular<br />
connection to today. Though<br />
HIV is no longer a death sentence (at<br />
least in the United States) and samesex<br />
marriage is the law of the land, the<br />
play speaks urgently to the moment in<br />
which we live—not least in its warnings<br />
about climate change and the angels’<br />
anti-immigration rhetoric. The play is<br />
also passionate about the promise of<br />
democracy—an idea that seems particularly<br />
fragile these days. “The history<br />
of this country—although it’s full of a<br />
lot of bad things—is full of astonishing<br />
moments of transformation and<br />
advances in human civilization,” Kushner<br />
says. “We are at a moment in this<br />
republic—I never imagined I would see<br />
it in my lifetime—where the question of<br />
whether or not we believe in democracy<br />
at all is on the table.”<br />
Angels in America ends on a note<br />
of hope and defiance—a benediction<br />
and a call to arms. Prior has journeyed<br />
to Heaven, where he finds a group of<br />
dispirited angels, abandoned by God,<br />
who preach a gospel of stasis and inaction,<br />
hoping that if they can get Prior to<br />
convince mankind to stop progressing<br />
God will return. Prior rejects the offer<br />
and returns to Earth to keep living,<br />
even if it is without hope of a divine<br />
intervention. As the play comes to a<br />
close, he addresses the audience:<br />
This disease will be the end of many<br />
of us, but not nearly all . . .<br />
and we are not going away.<br />
We won’t die secret deaths anymore.<br />
The world only spins forward.<br />
We will be citizens. The time has<br />
come.<br />
Bye now.<br />
You are fabulous creatures, each and<br />
every one.<br />
And I bless you: More Life.<br />
The Great Work Begins.<br />
“It’s a call to waking up to the fact that<br />
we need each other very deeply,” Garfield<br />
says. “You are me, and I am you.<br />
If I hurt you, I’m only hurting myself.<br />
That’s the awful beauty of what Tony’s<br />
written. There is no one watching over<br />
us. We have to watch over ourselves.<br />
What a beautiful, heady responsibility.”<br />
□<br />
HAPPY VALLEY<br />
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 147<br />
long-suffering fishing camp,” a rundown<br />
hippie compound set dramatically<br />
over the Pacific on the cliffs of Inverness.<br />
The multitasking Fulk has also created<br />
parties for the Trainas, whose hospitality<br />
is legendary—witness the “Hirst Bar” he<br />
had designed in their turn-of-the-century<br />
manse in San Francisco’s mistiest<br />
heights (<strong>Vogue</strong>, December 2009). Built<br />
around a Damien Hirst Spot painting,<br />
the Art Deco–inspired Jacques Adnet<br />
bar has become “a little canoodling<br />
spot,” as Fulk notes, “a real connector<br />
and the envy of their neighborhood.” He<br />
also shares a passion for Napa, which he<br />
began exploring some 20 years ago when<br />
he first moved to California. Inspired by<br />
a landscape that reminded him of his<br />
native Virginia, he bought a dilapidated<br />
place there, and subsequently a hilltop<br />
farmstead that he playfully describes as<br />
“a gay Green Acres.”<br />
For Fulk, the Trainas’ new compound<br />
had “a Petticoat Junction aspect—a folly<br />
that celebrated what we really love about<br />
Napa, and a way to hold on to something<br />
that could readily disappear.” They<br />
scoured antiques shops, fairs, and flea<br />
markets to furnish it. “Ken approaches<br />
design like an old theater director,” says<br />
Alexis, “and storytelling is a deep passion<br />
of the three of us.”<br />
The kitchen, stacked with transferware<br />
plates, looks as though Mildred<br />
Pierce might bake a pie in it and Mr.<br />
Blandings had installed the rhododendron<br />
wallpaper in the living room or the<br />
quilts in the guest rooms. “The property<br />
was too good to be true, and it was just<br />
sitting there waiting for a family to enliven<br />
it again,” says Trevor. “What was<br />
not to love?”<br />
The Traina children—Johnny, ten,<br />
172<br />
VOGUE FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong><br />
VOGUE.COM<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
and Delphina, nine—relish their rural<br />
idyll. “Napa has become such an integral<br />
place, not just for Trevor and Alexis but<br />
also for the next generation,” says Fulk.<br />
“The children swing in the tree and jump<br />
in the pool and ride their bikes, and I<br />
think it brings out that childlike sense of<br />
wonder in adults as well.”<br />
The idyll was shaken less than a<br />
month after these pictures were taken<br />
when the Trainas were leaving a restaurant<br />
in Yountville to discover that the<br />
ridge encircling their valley was ablaze<br />
with “a curtain of bright orange flames<br />
that ran for miles. It was just horrifying.”<br />
They were witnessing California’s deadliest<br />
natural disaster since the 1906 San<br />
Francisco earthquake. They gathered<br />
up their children and fled in the middle<br />
of the night. Their property was spared,<br />
“but we all knew many people between<br />
our two valleys who lost homes,” says<br />
Alexis.<br />
In response, the Trainas moved swiftly<br />
with their neighboring friends to help<br />
establish the Napa & Sonoma Relief, in<br />
partnership with Tipping Point Community,<br />
to support the low-income<br />
neighborhoods hardest hit by the fires.<br />
A gala evening in early December raised<br />
nearly $4 million toward the effort.<br />
“During those two weeks of fires,<br />
people from every corner of the Earth<br />
reached out,” says Alexis. “Everyone<br />
who has been moved by the indelible<br />
experience of Napa will always have a<br />
special attachment to this place.” □<br />
THE BIG EAST<br />
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 148<br />
textures for which Chinese food is justly<br />
famed. Then perfect Peking duck will<br />
come to me instinctively.<br />
One drawback to doing such field<br />
work is that it could easily stretch into<br />
a week, involving takeout, lunch, and<br />
dinner—you really can’t eat anything<br />
else if you’re trying to get the lay of the<br />
land. As I explain to my husband, in<br />
response to his asking if I have given up<br />
cooking entirely in lieu of noodles and<br />
dumplings, sautéed pea shoots and fried<br />
rice, sometimes from several locations<br />
in one night: “Let your plans be dark<br />
and impenetrable as night, and when<br />
you move, fall like a thunderbolt.” (Sun<br />
Tzu—The Art of War, naturally.)<br />
So I can only report highlights, like<br />
the tiki cocktails, shrimp toast, and saltand-pepper<br />
dry fry at Kings County<br />
Imperial in Brooklyn. You will not, in<br />
this terra nova, find the illicit bird’snest<br />
soup, or the endangered shark fin,<br />
described to me wistfully by my duckloving<br />
grandfather. But do not wag<br />
your head sadly until you have tasted<br />
Madam Zhu’s Spicy Fish Stew at the<br />
West Village’s Hao Noodle and Tea<br />
by Madam Zhu’s. It is at once deeply<br />
pleasurable and deeply painful, and<br />
almost sent one of my guests into premature<br />
labor. Madam Zhu’s also serves<br />
an eight-spice crispy tofu and crispy<br />
shrimp sauté that redefine the category<br />
of perfect bar snack.<br />
At none of the restaurants I visit or<br />
order from do I see chop suey, the dish<br />
that originally infatuated Americans<br />
with Chinese food. Chop suey is the<br />
first true Chinese American dish—a<br />
survival mechanism of Chinese immigrant<br />
cooks who, having arrived from<br />
Guangdong in the nineteenth century,<br />
combined ingredients, finely chopped<br />
and in hot woks, and served them in<br />
restaurants for fellow Chinese immigrants.<br />
These stir-fried dishes, which<br />
may have included shrimp or chicken or<br />
duck or noodles or anything else under<br />
the sun, were called chow chop suey<br />
(that is phonetic: Chau or chao means<br />
“stir-fry”; tsap sui or za sui, “odds and<br />
ends”). In the late nineteenth and early<br />
twentieth centuries, chop-suey houses<br />
proliferated, laying the ground for the<br />
50,000 (give or take) Chinese American<br />
restaurants that exist in the U.S.<br />
today. The reason I don’t encounter<br />
much chop suey on my survey is that<br />
the restaurants now opening are typically<br />
regional, or they represent a new<br />
Chinese American that values Sichuan<br />
peppercorns and mung beans, Chinese<br />
squashes and wood ear mushrooms.<br />
On day eight I realize that I haven’t<br />
yet eaten a Peking duck, which would<br />
seem to suggest that I’ve lost sight of my<br />
aim. I have. But I rectify it by making a<br />
reservation at Decoy, Ed Schoenfeld’s<br />
temple to the dish on Hudson Street. By<br />
making a reservation, one orders a duck<br />
and its attendant pancakes and sauces.<br />
To make sure we don’t go hungry—our<br />
appetites have ballooned after a week of<br />
noodles and dumplings—we also order<br />
sweet-potato noodles with uni (odd),<br />
Kumamoto oysters (delicious), and a<br />
New York strip steak (meaty). The duck<br />
is the star. It is unimprovable: mostly<br />
crisp skin, with thin sheets of velvety<br />
meat just beneath. This is precisely what<br />
I want to make.<br />
Thankfully, chef Joe Ng is in the<br />
kitchen and agrees to let me observe<br />
a duck being prepared. This is incredibly<br />
helpful, and once I’ve made copious<br />
notes, taken several videos, and<br />
inadvertently placed a bare hand into a<br />
mountain of raw dumpling filling, I feel<br />
Back home the following day, I begin<br />
my search for a six- to seven-pound<br />
Long Island or Cochin duck. This<br />
search is neither interesting to write<br />
about nor fruitful, and two days later<br />
I plead with a nice saleswoman from a<br />
nearby farm to overnight me a headless,<br />
air-chilled Alina duck. It arrives,<br />
perfectly preserved and on time, looking<br />
less ghoulish than what I remembered,<br />
missing those vital appendages that remind<br />
one that one’s food was recently<br />
alive. My first step is to expose it for<br />
fifteen seconds to just-below-boiling<br />
water so that the skin seizes up. As Ng<br />
had explained, sounding a little angry,<br />
“The point of Peking duck is the skin;<br />
the point of roast duck is meat. Focus<br />
on the skin.” I have a large pot, but it<br />
seems simpler to put the duck on a rack<br />
and pour boiling water over it. I create<br />
a deluge, and the next steps have to wait<br />
until I’ve finished mopping.<br />
Per my notes: “Then you add salt,<br />
pepper, five-spice powder, star anise<br />
around the inside. Nothing touches the<br />
skin. Then you use a special five-inch<br />
metal nail to close the cavity and sew<br />
it up.” A second speed bump: I do not<br />
have a special five-inch metal nail. I<br />
resort to unflavored dental floss and a<br />
sewing needle, and after half an hour of<br />
stabbing myself, I finally move on to step<br />
three, announcing to the empty room:<br />
“The greatest victory is that which requires<br />
no battle!”<br />
A battle ensues. I have to pump air<br />
beneath the duck skin to separate the<br />
skin from the meat. There should be a<br />
uniform layer of air so that, as the duck<br />
roasts, all of its subcutaneous fat drains<br />
out, creating that pane-of-glass crackle<br />
of which Ng is rightly proud. At Decoy,<br />
an electric bike pump is used, and<br />
the duck blows up like a parade float in<br />
ten seconds flat. I assume that a manual<br />
bike pump will suffice, without having<br />
fully strategized where I will insert the<br />
pump or how to keep the duck from<br />
simply being pumped across the room,<br />
or whether using our actual bike pump<br />
is sanitary. The duck isn’t quite blown<br />
across the room, but it shimmies off the<br />
counter. I give it a good wipe and turn to<br />
the Internet, where food writer J. Kenji<br />
López-Alt comfortingly assures me I<br />
can separate the skin from the meat perfectly<br />
using patience and a chopstick,<br />
which I accomplish, I think, with great<br />
success. Now I must spoon a mixture of<br />
sugar and vinegar over the entire duck<br />
with a large spoon.<br />
I am halfway done, and my notes say I<br />
need only to “let it hang to dry five to six<br />
prepared to re-create his mastery. hours outside CONTINUED ON PAGE 174<br />
VOGUE.COM VOGUE FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong><br />
173<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
or somewhere warm, or ten hours in a<br />
fridge.” So it is that I find myself repurposing<br />
a baby swing and getting my<br />
duck over a heating vent just inside our<br />
street-side windows.<br />
I step back to regard my work. To<br />
call the scene grim would be stoical. To<br />
call it ghastly would be still a bit cool.<br />
It is disturbing. My husband wonders<br />
aloud if a passerby is more likely to take<br />
the hanging duck as a sign of Santería,<br />
voodoo, or a satanic ritual. I insist that<br />
the duck stay, and go to prepare Mandarin<br />
pancakes. Then, a neighbor rings<br />
our doorbell to ask if everyone is OK.<br />
I sigh the sigh of the weary, unhook<br />
the duck, and carry it before me like an<br />
offering through the backyard and into<br />
our guest house, where, unmolested by<br />
inquiring eyes, I empty a refrigerator<br />
of its contents and hang the duck by a<br />
formidable-looking hook.<br />
The following day, the duck seems<br />
just right: slightly darkened, a thin filmy<br />
pellicle over its skin, which will help it<br />
take on a tantalizing caramel color. (It is<br />
painful to report here that my Mandarin<br />
pancakes turned into Play-Doh, but<br />
I have ingeniously bought fresh flour<br />
tortillas as a substitute.) I follow the last<br />
of Ng’s instructions: “Turn an oven to<br />
450. Cook 20–25 minutes, lower to 300,<br />
then cook until done. The whole duck<br />
will be puffed. Put water in the bottom<br />
of the oven so you don’t start a fire.”<br />
These directions are elementary and<br />
give me time to assemble my husband<br />
and mother and to recite several moving<br />
lines of the Tang-dynasty poem<br />
“Ode to the Goose,” substituting duck:<br />
“Duck, duck, duck/You bend your neck<br />
towards the sky and sing. . . .”<br />
A hush falls over the table as I present<br />
my glorious duck. The perfume of<br />
star anise rises from its burnished skin.<br />
I carve a leg and lay it gently on a platter<br />
bedecked with finely shaved scallions<br />
and threads of cucumber. Does the skin<br />
crackle as Ng promised it would? Has<br />
the fat wept away, leaving me only shattering<br />
crispness and a velvet blanket of<br />
fragrant duck beneath?<br />
No. The duck’s skin is a little rubbery.<br />
I need a different pump—and a<br />
20-gallon brew kettle to produce a more<br />
consistent caramel brown. And a blowtorch,<br />
for . . . just in case. I assemble a<br />
full list of needs and equipment, and<br />
will begin the diplomatic overtures necessary<br />
to begin acquisitions tomorrow.<br />
In the meantime, there are Ng’s ducks at<br />
Decoy, and at midtown’s new branch of<br />
a Beijing-based chain called DaDong,<br />
opened in December, specializing in Peking<br />
duck. But I may see what can be<br />
done with the pump for my yoga ball.<br />
To be continued. □<br />
TRUE COLORS<br />
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 150<br />
Chicago with my then husband and<br />
joining the Ebony Fashion Fair—the<br />
world’s largest traveling charity fashion<br />
show—as a commentator. That’s<br />
when I had an idea. Clairol did the hair<br />
for the shows, but we all did our own<br />
makeup. So I said to founder Eunice<br />
Johnson, “We need to have our own<br />
cosmetics.” Eunice was thrilled. We<br />
launched Fashion Fair Cosmetics in<br />
1973, and we were in every store—<br />
Marshall Field’s, Abraham & Straus<br />
in Brooklyn, Bloomingdale’s. We had<br />
toners, we had skin-care products, we<br />
had blushes, eye shadows, foundation<br />
in every shade you can imagine. We were<br />
the only game in town; then, all of a<br />
In This Issue<br />
Table of contents 38: On<br />
Serena and Venus: One-piece<br />
pajamas, $28; target.com.<br />
Cover look 38: Dress, $3,925;<br />
versace.com. Earrings,<br />
$4,750; jennifermeyer<br />
.com. Cuff bracelet, $9,550:<br />
evafehren.com. Manicure, Tina<br />
Le. Tailor, Christina Manners.<br />
Editor’s letter62: Dress,<br />
$3,590; select Ralph Lauren<br />
stores. Earrings, $4,450:<br />
thethreegraces.com. Bracelet,<br />
$6,600; doyledoyle<br />
.com. V Life 74: Dress, $2,800:<br />
Marc Jacobs stores. Gucci<br />
hairclip, $400; gucci.com.<br />
Rodarte barrettes, priced<br />
upon request; similar styles<br />
at matchesfashion.com.<br />
Lady Grey barrette, $264;<br />
ladygreyjewelry.com. Versace<br />
bobby pins, $250 each;<br />
versace.com. Simone Rocha<br />
hairclip, $130; simonerocha<br />
.com. 88: Holt: David<br />
Andersen photo/Andersenxl<br />
.com. O’Keeffe: Georgia<br />
O’Keeffe. Black Mesa<br />
Landscape, New Mexico/Out<br />
Back of Marie’s II, 1930. Oil<br />
on canvas mounted to board,<br />
24¼˝ x 36¼˝. © Georgia<br />
O’Keeffe Museum. © <strong>2018</strong><br />
Georgia O’Keeffe Museum/<br />
Artists Rights Society (ARS),<br />
New York. Photo: Malcolm<br />
Varon, 2001. Art Resource, NY.<br />
Gift of The Burnett Foundation<br />
(1997.06.15). Schmeltz: Aili<br />
Schmeltz. Twisted Hourglass<br />
Generator IX, 2015. Image<br />
courtesy of the artist,<br />
ailischmeltz.com. Still life: Liam<br />
Goodman. Arizona Proenza<br />
Schouler, $130; Saks Fifth<br />
Avenue stores.<br />
LOVE ALL<br />
108–109: Dress, $5,900;<br />
Valentino boutiques. Bracelet,<br />
price upon request; Irene<br />
Neuwirth, West Hollywood.<br />
112–113: On Isha: Pajamas,<br />
$99; brooksbrothers.com.<br />
Irene Neuwirth earrings, price<br />
upon request; Irene Neuwirth,<br />
West Hollywood. Jacquie Aiche<br />
belly chain worn as necklace,<br />
$4,500; jacquieaiche.com.<br />
On Venus: Pajamas, $95;<br />
jcrew.com. Ana Khouri<br />
earrings, $21,700; Barneys<br />
New York, NYC. Garland<br />
Collection necklace, $2,100;<br />
garlandcollection.com.<br />
Jennifer Fisher chain ($270)<br />
and charms ($550–$1,600);<br />
jenniferfisherjewelry.com.<br />
On Oracene: Pajamas, $285;<br />
derek-rose.com. Jennifer<br />
Fisher earrings, $425;<br />
jenniferfisherjewelry<br />
.com. On Serena: J.Crew<br />
pajamas, $95; jcrew.com.<br />
On Lyndrea: Pajamas: $99;<br />
brooksbrothers.com.<br />
Jennifer Fisher earrings,<br />
$295; jenniferfisherjewelry<br />
.com. 115: On Serena:<br />
Bodysuit, $595; select Michael<br />
Kors stores. Skirt, $1,950;<br />
breelayne.com. Fallon earrings,<br />
$110; fallonjewelry<br />
.com. Doyle & Doyle bracelet,<br />
$6,600; doyledoyle.com.<br />
Watch, $22,100; Audemars<br />
Piguet, NYC. On Ohanian:<br />
Giorgio Armani shirt, $2,195;<br />
Giorgio Armani boutiques.<br />
AG jeans, $178; agjeans.com.<br />
In this story: Manicure, Tina Le.<br />
Tailor, Christina Manners.<br />
LOVE IN THE TRENCHES<br />
116–117: On Kroes: Coat,<br />
$7,940; Maison Margiela<br />
boutiques. Alberta Ferretti<br />
skirt, $930; Barneys New<br />
York, NYC. The Row boots,<br />
$1,390; The Row, NYC. On<br />
James: Suit, $1,195; billyreid<br />
.com. Shirt, $515; Tom Ford<br />
boutiques. Worth & Worth by<br />
Orlando Palacios hat, $245;<br />
hatshop.com. Vintage shoes<br />
from What Goes Around<br />
Comes Around, $278;<br />
What Goes Around Comes<br />
Around, NYC. 118: Coat (price<br />
upon request) and dress<br />
($6,200). 119: On Myllena<br />
Gorré: Batsheva dress,<br />
$168; batsheva.com. The<br />
Frye Company boots, $68;<br />
thefryecompany.com. On<br />
Phyllon Gorré: Bonpoint shirt<br />
($140) and pants ($170);<br />
bonpoint.com. Crewcuts for<br />
J.Crew boots, $88; jcrew<br />
.com. 122: On Phyllon:<br />
Crewcuts for J.Crew T-shirt,<br />
($20) and pants ($80); jcrew<br />
.com. 124–125: Coat,<br />
$9,550. In this story: Tailor,<br />
Heather Ferrell.<br />
STRONGER TOGETHER<br />
126–127: On Akwaeke: Dress,<br />
$4,600; gucci.com. Marc<br />
Jacobs sandals, $395; Marc<br />
Jacobs stores. On Yagazie:<br />
Shirt, $118; Calvin Klein, NYC.<br />
Pants, $395; rag-bone.com.<br />
Christian Louboutin shoes,<br />
$1,095; christianlouboutin<br />
.com. Jacket, $3,770; Marni<br />
boutiques. 128–129: On<br />
Wilde: T-shirt, $30; hm.com.<br />
On Burchfield: Blouse, $10;<br />
hm.com. 130–131: On<br />
Woods: Coat (price upon<br />
request), bodysuit (price<br />
upon request), culottes (price<br />
upon request), and sandals<br />
($995); Marc Jacobs stores.<br />
On Lauren: Shirt, $395; ragbone.com.<br />
Pants, $1.050; Etro<br />
boutiques. Tod’s shoes, $495;<br />
tods.com. On Frazier: Dress,<br />
$552; ladoublej.com. Stella<br />
McCartney boots, $995; Stella<br />
McCartney, NYC. 132–133:<br />
On Jacquelyn: Dress, $5,795;<br />
Chloé boutiques. Dr. Martens<br />
boots, $145; drmartens.com.<br />
On Allyson: Jacket (price upon<br />
request) and shirt ($450);<br />
similar styles at rag-bone.com.<br />
Nike sneakers, $95; nike.com.<br />
On Kathryn: Sweater, $2,700;<br />
Chanel boutiques. Jeans,<br />
$113; jbrandjeans.com. The<br />
Frye Company boots, $398;<br />
thefryecompany.com. In this<br />
story: Tailors, Cha Cha Zuctic,<br />
Celine Schira, Leah Huntsinger.<br />
LIVING<br />
THEIR TRUTH<br />
136–137: On Jama: Dress,<br />
$8,350; Alexander McQueen,<br />
NYC. On Stormzy: Jacket, $110;<br />
adidas.com. T-shirt ($125)<br />
and jeans ($215); burberry<br />
.com. Watch, $34,021; (212)<br />
218-1240. 139: On Stormzy:<br />
Jacket ($2,495 for suit)<br />
and T-shirt ($225); select<br />
Dolce & Gabbana boutiques.<br />
On Jama: Coat, $4,465;<br />
christopherkane.com. In this<br />
story: Tailor, Della George.<br />
AMERICAN BEAUTY<br />
140–141: On Pace: London<br />
Fog trench coat, $205;<br />
londonfog.com. Caruso suit,<br />
price upon request: Caruso,<br />
NYC. Church’s shoes, $695;<br />
church-footwear.com. In this<br />
story: Tailor, Cha Cha Zuctic.<br />
Puppet/Wing design, Finn<br />
Caldwell & Nick Barnes.<br />
Costumes from the National<br />
174<br />
VOGUE FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong><br />
VOGUE.COM<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
sudden, there were all of these lines that<br />
launched to compete—Revlon put out<br />
its Polished Ambers collection in 1975;<br />
much later there were brands like Black<br />
Opal and Black Up. Black women were<br />
buying cosmetics like crazy, which is<br />
part of the reason I wrote a one-page<br />
proposal to <strong>Vogue</strong>’s then editor, Grace<br />
Mirabella, while I was working as a freelance<br />
stylist for the magazine in the early<br />
eighties. It had a simple message: You<br />
need a column for black women. There<br />
was a real absence of information—and<br />
Beauty Now . . . From a Black Woman’s<br />
Point of View filled that void. During<br />
my four-year run, I covered our lips,<br />
our skin, our breasts. I was the first to<br />
get an exclusive with Vanessa Williams<br />
before she won Miss America. The interest<br />
and the demand for these kinds<br />
of stories were partially due to all the<br />
new products that were available to us<br />
for the first time, and partially due to the<br />
fact that finally, we had all of these black<br />
women to be inspired by: Nancy Wilson<br />
and Patti LaBelle—both of them had<br />
their own cosmetics lines; Diahann Carroll;<br />
Angela Davis with her gorgeous<br />
Afro; and Iman, whose products are<br />
still setting the trends. It’s hard not to<br />
notice the present-day parallels. There<br />
are all of these wonderful, diverse artists<br />
in pop culture and on social media for<br />
young women to look up to: Rihanna,<br />
Beyoncé, Cardi B—fabulous women on<br />
the world’s biggest stages—and these<br />
girls wear makeup!<br />
I asked my granddaughter why she<br />
and her friends love Rihanna’s Fenty<br />
Beauty, and she said, “Because we love<br />
Rihanna.” But it’s not just Rihanna’s<br />
face (and her body) that is moving all of<br />
those skin sticks and primers. The products<br />
have a beauty-for-all message—<br />
and a pioneering spirit. People want to<br />
be entrepreneurs. Look at Mented cosmetics.<br />
Founders Amanda Johnson and<br />
KJ Miller are Harvard Business School<br />
grads—Harvard! Their vegan, tonal<br />
lipsticks formulated specifically for a<br />
more diverse skin range just received<br />
$1 million in funding. And Katonya<br />
Breaux—Frank Ocean’s mother—is<br />
now also known as the brains behind<br />
Unsun Cosmetics, a line of natural,<br />
mineral-tinted SPF products that work<br />
on all skin tones with no chalky finish.<br />
These women are not only serving the<br />
black community; they’re impacting the<br />
way the entire industry is approaching<br />
beauty. Covergirl just rebranded with<br />
a new corps of spokeswomen—mothers,<br />
athletes, and businesswomen who<br />
better represent our depth than just<br />
showing celebrities. We never had these<br />
resources or role models.<br />
And here’s the other thing that’s<br />
happening: There are just more people<br />
now who are “of color.” The demographic<br />
has totally changed. My mother<br />
was African American and Native<br />
American, and my father was Native<br />
American and German. The next generation<br />
is going to be America’s first<br />
“minority majority.” When I was coming<br />
up, things were only in black and<br />
white; these days, everything is in color.<br />
That’s why we say “women of color”<br />
now, which I much prefer. Because we<br />
all come from different ethnicities and<br />
cultures, and we all come in different<br />
shades—from ivory to light-brown<br />
and medium-brown, to dark-brown,<br />
near-black, and black. I like to think<br />
of beauty like a rainbow. It’s more interesting<br />
that way.—as told to celia<br />
ellenberg<br />
A WORD ABOUT DISCOUNTERS WHILE VOGUE THOROUGHLY RESEARCHES THE COMPANIES<br />
MENTIONED IN ITS PAGES, WE CANNOT GUARANTEE THE AUTHENTICITY OF MERCHANDISE SOLD<br />
BY DISCOUNTERS. AS IS ALWAYS THE CASE IN PURCHASING AN ITEM FROM ANYWHERE OTHER<br />
THAN THE AUTHORIZED STORE, THE BUYER TAKES A RISK AND SHOULD USE CAUTION WHEN DOING SO.<br />
Theatre and Broadway<br />
production of Angels in America<br />
designed by Nicky Gillibrand.<br />
BIG EAST<br />
149: Asian Chinese-style<br />
(20th-century) black<br />
Coromandel fourfold screen<br />
with heron design from<br />
Newel; (718) 395-1955 for<br />
information. Earth Vase by<br />
Moser, $3,950. Cubism D.O.F.<br />
glass by Moser, $290.<br />
SIMON SAYS<br />
152–153: On Liline:<br />
Jacquemus earring, $245<br />
for pair; jacquemus.com.<br />
156–157: On Sanchez: Top<br />
($400), skirt ($765), hat<br />
($470), earrings ($280), and<br />
sandals ($650); jacquemus<br />
.com. On Nyasiase: Dress<br />
($1,045), earrings ($260), and<br />
sandals ($650); jacquemus<br />
.com. On Jones: Dress<br />
($730), headband, earrings<br />
($245), and sandals ($650);<br />
jacquemus.com. In this story:<br />
Manicure, Patricia Gilson. Tailor,<br />
Florence Lesceq.<br />
MOMENT OF THE MONTH<br />
158: On Trentini: Hat, $46;<br />
hatattack.com. Eddie Borgo<br />
necklaces, $425 each;<br />
neimanmarcus.com. Hermès<br />
bracelet, $1,900; Hermès<br />
boutiques. Ben-Amun by<br />
Isaac Manevitz bangles, $270<br />
each; ben-amun.com. Bag,<br />
$2,550; Céline, NYC. Sorel<br />
sneakers, $130; sorel.com.<br />
On Sun: Dress, $8,365; select<br />
Miu Miu boutiques. Hat, $46;<br />
hatattack.com. Tiffany & Co.<br />
necklace, $3,800; tiffany.com.<br />
Miriam Haskell longer pearl<br />
necklace; price upon request;<br />
miriamhaskell.com. Bangles,<br />
$245 each; alexisbittar<br />
.com. W.Kleinberg belt, $165;<br />
wkleinberg.com. Bag, $1,390;<br />
michaelkors.com. Pierre<br />
Hardy sneakers, $595; Pierre<br />
Hardy, NYC. 159: On Trentini:<br />
Effy Jewelry necklaces,<br />
$1,418–$2,025; effyjewelry<br />
.com. Miriam Haskell necklace<br />
with clasp; price upon request;<br />
miriamhaskell<br />
.com. Bag, $2,200; Salvatore<br />
Ferragamo boutiques. Eric<br />
Javits hat (held in hand),<br />
$140; ericjavits.com. On<br />
Smalls: Dress, $7,295; select<br />
Dolce & Gabbana boutiques.<br />
Kenneth Jay Lane necklaces,<br />
$55–$65; kennethjaylane.<br />
com. David Yurman necklace,<br />
$2,000; davidyurman.<br />
com. Eric Javits hat (held in<br />
hand), $150; ericjavits.com.<br />
Erickson Beamon cuff, $500;<br />
ericksonbeamon.com. Bag,<br />
$228; katespade.com. On<br />
both: Loewe sneakers. $650;<br />
Hirshleifers, Manhasset, NY.<br />
160: On Taylor: Earrings,<br />
$29,300; vancleefarpels<br />
.com. Miriam Haskell necklace<br />
with clasp; price upon<br />
request; miriamhaskell.com.<br />
Kenneth Jay Lane necklaces<br />
($55–$65) and pearl<br />
bracelet ($70). Necklaces<br />
at kennethjaylane.com.<br />
Bracelet at Lord & Taylor<br />
stores. Rodarte flower<br />
bracelet, price upon request;<br />
monamoore.com. Bag,<br />
$2,650; rogervivier.com.<br />
Reebok sneakers, $85; reebok<br />
.com. On Sun: Effy Jewelry<br />
necklace, $2,025; effyjewelry<br />
.com. David Yurman necklace,<br />
$2,000; davidyurman.<br />
com. Brooch, $16,600;<br />
vancleefarpels.com. Bag,<br />
$11,500; Barneys New York,<br />
NYC. Reebok sneakers, $85;<br />
reebok.com. 161: On Elson:<br />
Top ($1,190), skirt (price upon<br />
request), bracelet (price upon<br />
request), bag ($13,990), and<br />
sneakers ($690). Top at Saks<br />
Fifth Avenue, NYC. Sneakers at<br />
kokko.me. Necklace, $3,125;<br />
tiffany.com. On Trentini: Dress<br />
($1,990), bracelet (price upon<br />
request), necklace ($350),<br />
bag ($13,990), and sneakers<br />
($650). Bracelet at Barneys<br />
New York, NYC. Sneakers at<br />
Hirshleifers, Manhasset, NY.<br />
In this story: Manicure,<br />
Megumi Yamamoto.<br />
BOOTS<br />
162: Boots at far left by<br />
Coach 1941, price upon<br />
request; similar styles at<br />
coach.com. On Hartzel:<br />
Boots, price upon request;<br />
similar styles at coach.com.<br />
Gold boots by Coach 1941,<br />
price upon request; similar<br />
styles at coach.com. Red boots<br />
(at far right) by Coach 1941,<br />
price upon request; similar<br />
styles at coach.com. 163: On<br />
Forrest: Belt, $785. 165: Boots,<br />
similar styles at Givenchy,<br />
NYC. Dress, $8,385. 166:<br />
Boots, price upon request.<br />
Earrings, $1,550; Céline, NYC.<br />
167: Earrings, $380. 168: On<br />
Forrest: Top and skirt, priced<br />
upon request. In this story:<br />
Manicure, Emi Kudo for<br />
Chanel Le Vernis. Tailor,<br />
Hasmik Kourinian.<br />
INDEX<br />
170–171: 1. Dress, $2,195. 3.<br />
Ring, $6,500. 5. Top, also at<br />
Barneys New York, NYC.<br />
7. Skirt, $4,190; also at Marni<br />
boutiques. 8. Bag, $2,595;<br />
by special order.<br />
LAST LOOK<br />
176: Necklace, price upon<br />
request; De Vera, NYC.<br />
ALL PRICES APPROXIMATE<br />
VOGUE IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT © <strong>2018</strong> CONDÉ NAST. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 208, NO. 2. VOGUE (ISSN<br />
0042-8000) is published monthly by Condé Nast, which is a division of Advance <strong>Magazine</strong> Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. S. I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman Emeritus;<br />
Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President & Chief Executive Officer; David E. Geithner, Chief Financial Officer; Pamela Drucker Mann, Chief Revenue and Marketing Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and<br />
at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 123242885-RT0001. POSTMASTER: Send all UAA to CFS (see DMM<br />
507.1.5.2); NON-POSTAL AND MILITARY FACILITIES: Send address corrections to VOGUE, P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK-<br />
ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to VOGUE, P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617, call 800-234-2347, or email subscriptions@vogue.com. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label.<br />
Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If, during your subscription term or up to one year<br />
after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four<br />
weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to VOGUE <strong>Magazine</strong>, 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. For reprints, please email reprints@condenast.com<br />
or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. For reuse permissions, please email contentlicensing@condenast.com or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.vogue.com. To subscribe to other Condé Nast magazines<br />
on the World Wide Web, visit www.condenastdigital.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our<br />
readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617, or call 800-234-2347.<br />
VOGUE IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAW-<br />
INGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION<br />
SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY VOGUE IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED<br />
BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
Last Look<br />
DeVera necklace<br />
After removing the pin backs on ten bejeweled brooches from the late nineteenth to the mid–twentieth<br />
century, Federico de Vera transformed them into pendants: glittering floral wreaths, pearly halos,<br />
and more. Linking the vintage bijoux—composed of stones both precious and semiprecious—are<br />
contemporary appendages of 18K-gold work scattered with gemstones throughout and anchored by a<br />
teardrop stone of fire opal. Think of this as the statement necklace come full circle.<br />
PHOTOGRAPHED BY ERIC BOMAN<br />
BACKGROUND: © ANDREA SANDRO CIBELLI/DREAMSTIME. DETAILS, SEE IN THIS ISSUE.<br />
176<br />
VOGUE FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong><br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
© <strong>2018</strong> Clinique Laboratories, LLC<br />
Moisture Surge 72-Hour<br />
Auto-Replenishing Hydrator<br />
Allergy Tested.<br />
100% Fragrance Free.<br />
New technology.<br />
Now, give your skin<br />
the power to rehydrate itself.<br />
Our newest Moisture Surge with activated aloe water helps<br />
skin create its own internal water source. Keeps skin<br />
plump and dewy for 72 hours—even after washing your face.<br />
Always formulated for maximum results with zero irritation.<br />
Starting at $19.00. * clinique.com<br />
*Suggested retail price.<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my<br />
www.magazineshq.blogspot.my
Change language