Our Insiders Guide to Candidasa & Eastern Bali

OUR INSIDERS
GUIDE TO
CANDIDASA &
EASTERN BALI
www.globalvillasltd.com

Eastern Bali is often referred to as the Bali of
N A T U R E & C U L T U R E
old as it still represents all that is authentic
THE BEAUTY
OF EASTERN
BALI
beautiful about the island. A world away
and
the commercialism of southern Bali,
from
Bali is all about beautiful rice terraces,
eastern
views, indigenous forests,
volcano
beaches and a warm ocean.
stunning
just 90 minutes from the airport, is
Candidasa,
a quiet fishing village that provides a perfect
B a l i i s o n e o f t h e f e w c u l t u r e s w i t h
o r i g i n s i n o n e o f t h e g r e a t a n c i e n t
c u l t u r e s w h i c h i s s t i l l a l i v e .
the activities, that eastern Bali has to offer.
Candidasa and eastern Bali have something
base to enjoy all the sights, and experience all
- A r t h u r E r i c k s o n , C a n a d i a n
a r c h i t e c t -
Balinese culture and adventure, to historically
for everyone (except the party animal!), from
rich sights, and interesting activities.
N O M A D I C | 2 4

25 years ago my husband, David, still young, single
About
fancy-free, came to Bali as part of a whistlestop tour of
and
Asia, but paused long enough on Bali to realise
South-East
he needed to come back again – soon and for longer!
that
OUR
STORY
So began his love affair with the island, which then saw us
visit together for the first time on our honeymoon - and I
(luckily!) fell in love with it in the same way he had.
M A I L I E G R E E N
Once we had our two boys, Adam and Jed, we started
staying in villas rather than hotels, and immediately realised
that villas are the ideal way for families, friends and groups to
holiday. That set us dreaming about owning our own villa on
Bali and, in 2010, after extensive (and I mean extensive!)
research, we settled on Villa Sagitta in Pejeng, just outside
Ubud.
We subsequently purchased Villa Cocoa Maya in Candidasa,
and Villa Bebek in Seminyak. Together with our two
properties in South Africa we now run the five properties as
Global Villas Ltd.
Our boys have grown up with Bali as their second home.
Over the years we have brought family and friends on holiday
here (it’s amazing how your social group grows when you
suggest a free holiday in paradise!), and our boys are now at
an age that their friends are joining us too.
Yet, sadly, one of the tragedies of life is that one can't holiday
year round (!), so we also rent out our properties to guests.
We really enjoy the experience of being long-distance hosts,
and we are very serious about making sure that our guests’
hard-earned holiday goes well on our watch!
It’s always fun to read the reviews in our guestbook, and on
T R I P A D V I S O R
TripAdvisor, and our staff get a huge kick out of it too. There’s
R E V I E W S
something very satisfying about knowing that our guests get
as much enjoyment out of our homes as we do!

4 EXPERIENCES
YOU DON'T
WANT TO MISS

Indisputedly, eastern Bali has the most beautiful scenery on the island, and many of the
most historical sights as well. It is the relatively undiscovered jewel in Bali's crown and
we are fortunate to be in close proximity to most of the area's worthwhile sights.
RICE FIELD TREKKING
The best rice field trekking is near Tenganan, about 3 kms
away from central Candidasa. It's best to do it in the early
morning when it's not too hot, and the farmers are in the
lands ploughing and planting - it makes for great photos. It's
easiest to start at the rice fields and walk down to Tenganan.
TIRTAGANGGA
Supposedly built as a folly by the king of Karangasem for
his mistress (who never actually got to see it), this
enchanting water palace - with the biggest koi you've ever
seen - is well worth a visit. Take your costume as there are
beautiful clear mountain-water stone pools to swim in.
KINTAMANI
Kintamani is the area that surrounds Mount Agung.
Because of the high rainfall and altitude, and its relative
remoteness, it has a very different feel from the rest of the
island. More of a drive than an actual destination, it has
some of the most beautiful scenery in Bali.
PURA BESAKIH
Not known as Bali's Mother Temple for nothing, a visit to
Besakih is very worthwhile. You should put aside a day as it
takes about 90 minutes to get there (through magnificent
scenery, so it's not a hardship). There's lots to see when you're
there and the views of the volcano, Mt Agung, are incredible.

OUR 4
HIDDEN
GEMS

I've chosen some of our favourite hidden gems that are close to the
villa or within easy driving distance - I hope you enjoy them too!
GOA LAWAH
Goa Lawah (the bat cave) is not quite a hidden gem (it's
directly on the main road for one thing!), but it is often
overlooked by tourists. However, it is one of Bali's most
important temples and, as such, there are an enormous
amount of spectacular ceremonies that take place there.
MANGGIS MOTORBIKE RIDE
If you're going to hire a bike on Bali, Candidasa is the place
to do it. The traffic is quieter and the "hidden" scenery on
the back roads and bike tracks is magnificent. We have a
map that shows you our route through the beautiful
Manggis hills but you can easily explore on your own.
BUG-BUG FRESH MARKET
South-east Asia has amazing fruit and vegetables - a lot of
it is very exotic for Westerners. The market at Bug Bug, on
the way to Amlapura, has a great selection. It's not touristy
at all, only locals shop there. It's most interesting to arrive
early in the morning, at set-up, and see what's on offer.
TENGANAN AGA VILLAGE
Although the Aga village at Tenganan is not a secret (and is
in fact quite touristy), what is not as well known is that it is
the only place on Bali (and one of only four in the world)
where double ikat fabric is weaved. The basket weaving
here is also the best quality on the island.

Compared to Ubud and southern Bali,
O U R F I V E B E S T P I C K S
eastern Bali is not as well known
OUR
FAVOURITE
RESTAURANTS
its restaurants. This is largely due to
for
area being much less
the
than Ubud, and
commercialised
southern Bali. However
particularly
are some really good restaurants
there
Candidasa - and the surrounding
in
- that are well worth a visit.
areas
You'll find a good spread of choices in
eastern Bali, from traditional Balinese
" Y o u h a v e t o t a s t e a c u l t u r e t o
u n d e r s t a n d i t " .
- D e b o r a h C a t e r , t r a v e l w r i t e r -
and plenty in between.
food to contemporary Western food,
I've chosen my favourites based on
ambiance and taste, from the "cheap
as chips" to more "gourmet" options.
N O M A D I C | 2 4

VINCENT'S
VINCENTSBALI.COM
Vincent's is not only, without
doubt, the best restaurant in
Candidasa, it is also one of
my favourites on the whole
island.
There is a wonderful
ambiance (ask for a table in
the garden at the back, it's
quite magical). Both the
traditional Balinese
food, and their
contemporary Western
menu, is excellent, and the
service is efficient and
friendly.
If you're in Candidasa on a
Thursday don't miss the "lazy
jazz" night from 6pm to 9pm
(which happens every week)
- the artists are all extremely
talented and it's a wonderful
night out.
Because it's popular you
should book - then ask for a
table in the garden that has
a view of the musicians - the
best of both worlds!
Vincent's is an easy stroll
from Villa Cocoa Maya but,
like most restaurants in
Candidasa, they also offer a
complimentary pick-up and
drop-off service which our
staff is happy to arrange for
you.

BALI ASLI
BALIASLI.COM.AU
Bali Asli (open only for lunch) is
worth the trip for a few
reasons. Firstly, the 30 minute
drive to get there is extremely
beautiful.
Secondly, this is your view while
you eat - a magnificent valley of
rice fields and farmlands,
unspoiled by development,
that soar up to Mount Agung -
hard to beat!
Finally, the Australian owner,
Penelope, is committed to
cooking with ingredients
sourced entirely from the
Karangasem region, and she
turns out spectacular results!
Consequently there's no
western food on her menu, only
excellent Balinese dishes.
JOGLO
JOGLOCANDIDASA.COM
Another restaurant with great
ambiance, partially set in a pretty
garden, on a few levels, The Joglo
is also situated on the main road
of Candidasa.
They focus primarily on delicious
seafood dishes, but also offer
equally good Balinese and other
Western food.

LOAF
FACEBOOK.COM/LOAF-CANDIDASA-
863060137102919
Strictly a coffee shop, rather than a
restaurant, Loaf has such delicious cakes
and coffee that it is definitely worth a
mention as one of my favourites!
Candidasa is known for many things but,
historically, a coffee culture has never
been one of them! That (thankfully!) has
changed with the arrival of Loaf.
They serve fantastic coffee and their wide
range of tarts and cakes are worth
putting on the calories for! They also
make delicious bread - their sourdough is
particularly good.
THE HOT DOG SHOP
ARIHOMESTAYCANDIDASA.COM
Ari Homestay and Hot Dog Shop is not
going to win any culinary - or decorating -
awards any time soon! That said, when you
can't face another nasi goreng (as evidenced
by their "NO NASI GORENG!" sign at the
entrance), it has delicious Australian-inspired
hot dogs and hamburgers.
Situated right on the main road (literally!), it's
a lot of fun to order a beer (one size and one
make only - large Bintang!), chat a bit with
whoever's in there at the time, and watch
the world go by from a plastic chair. Don't
forget your cholesterol medication!

3 FOR
THE KIDS

WHITE SAND BEACH
White Sand Beach (also known as Virgin Beach or Pasir Putih) is one of Bali's iconic beaches. Despite its
beauty, due to its relatively remote location, it's never crowded. The kids (and you!) will enjoy the adventure of
arriving at the beach via a fishing boat (about 15 minutes from Candidasa), stopping along the way to snorkel
if you prefer. Once at the beach there are traditional warungs (little restaurants) that serve the catch of the
day and drinks (even cocktails!) at reasonable prices. The sea changes over the course of the day between
being flat and having waves, and there are boogie boards for hire. There's even one or two little dress shops.
SURFING LESSONS
CHARLY'S CHOCOLATE
FACEBOOK.COM/BALICHOCOLAT
JDSBALI.COM
Jasri Dalem offers surfing lessons at Jasri, 15 minutes
Your kids will probably prefer the chocolate to the
chocolate tour at this factory, 15 minutes from
from Candidasa and close to Charly's Chocolate. They
Candidasa, but it's a great venue with bamboo "smurf"
have beginner surfboards for the kids to learn on and
each child gets a teacher who hovers in the water with
houses, a large "pirate" ship and a very large swing next
them. Best to do at low tide! An added bonus is the
to the ocean where the kids can have fun or you can
take the ultimate photo for your Instagram account!
funds go to support the orphans who live at the school.

3 FOR THE
ADVENTUROUS

SCUBA DIVING
DIVING.DE
Bali has plenty of options for scuba divers of all levels of experience, and eastern Bali provides the best
options of all. Deep walls, drift dives through deep water channels, coral reefs, volcanic muck diving, a world
famous wreck, offshore islands, mola mola and mantas are all available here. It is also simple, and reasonably
priced, to learn to dive in the many dive schools located in Candidasa. If snorkelling is more your thing, there
is excellent snorkelling right off the beach at the villa, as well as at the little islands about 10 minutes away.
RIVER RAFTING
CLIMBING MT AGUNG
River rafting in the Candidasa area takes place on
Climbing Mt Agung is a tougher option than climbing
Mt Batur and is not recommended for the unfit or
the Telaga Waja river. The rapid size depends on the
inexperienced walker! Guides are compulsory and can
time of year (rainy or not), but it normally has
something for everyone, even kids - needless to say
be arranged once you get to the base. It takes about 45
minutes to an hour to drive there from Candidasa.
through beautiful scenery.

3 FOR THE
LAID-BACK

YOGA AT THE ASHRAM
ASHRAMGANDHI.WORDPRESS.COM/YOGA-PUJA/
The Gandhi ashram in central Candidasa (about a 10 minute walk from Villa Cocoa Maya) has a magnificent
position directly next to the ocean and behind the famous lotus pond. Their classes are led by either Balinese
teachers, or international ones who come for extended residential retreats at the ashram. There's nothing
pretentious about the place or the practice - it's just great yoga with experienced teachers in a breathtaking
location (complete with cows eating grass in the garden) - it doesn't get more authentic than this! Because it's
an ashram, payment is an amount of your choice, by donation.
BALINESE COOKING
SPAS
SUPPLIERS DIFFER DEPENDING ON BUDGET
BALISPAGUIDE.COM
Candidasa has a range of spas ranging from the many
Candidasa has a few very good cooking schools in town
such as the Ashyana Resort's course, and Smiley's
well-priced day spas on the main road - which are
quite interchangeable in terms of what they offer - to
Warung in Sengkidu (about 5 minutes' drive from
central Candidasa). Bali Asli also offers an excellent
the top hotel spas in the area (the 5-star Amankila and
course. Alternatively our cooks at the villa are very
the 4-star Alila), both of whom offer free transfers from
happy to show you how it's done!
the villa. We also offer massage at the villa.

3 THINGS
TO AVOID

LUWAK COFFEE
This is a definite no-no. To satisfy global demand of the world's most expensive coffee, which is made from
civet's poo, (it's a longer story but that's the gist of it), most of today's suppliers keep captured civets in cages
and feed them almost exclusively on coffee cherries.
Enduring appalling living conditions and unhealthy diets, these nocturnal solitary omnivores suffer from
mental distress and succumb to illness and death. The grim luwak plantations are not confined to Indonesia
but they are plentiful on Bali. Please don't support them - apparently the coffee doesn't even taste very good!
PLASTIC
TEMPLE TOUTS
Temple touts are at all the large temples. You are
Like so many places in the world, Bali is drowning in
plastic. Bali now has many initiatives aimed at
under no obligation to use one and generally they don’t
get pushy if you say no politely. If you get offered a
reducing plastic and aims to be free of plastic bags in
the near future. In the meantime please don’t take
“free” tour, or are told they get paid a salary by the
temple, don’t believe it for a moment – you'll be asked
the plastic bag if you can avoid it, and please also
avoid buying new plastic bottles every time you want
for a donation at the end anyway. If you want to use a
water – we have a free water dispenser at the villa.
guide (they're often very knowledgeable), discuss a fee
upfront and then everyone’s happy from the get-go!
Similarly, hold off on the plastic straws too!

THE BIG 3
CEREMONIES

One of our favourite things to see on Bali are the ceremonies that are part and parcel
of everyday life for any Balinese. Below are the three main ceremonies that happen
each year, but there are literally hundreds more, as well as cremations, weddings,
blessings etc. If our staff are aware of ceremonies happening in the area they like to
make our guests aware of them, as they are so amazing to see.
GALUNGAN
30 MAY 2018 & 26 DECEMBER 2018
Galungan happens twice a year - every 210
days. It celebrates the creation of the
universe and the victory of good against evil.
The festivities last for 10 days and culminate
in the Kuningan celebration. However the
preparations begin long in advance, and
Galungan activities will be obvious all over
the island on the days preceding it.
KUNINGAN
9 JUNE 2018 & 5 JANUARY 2019
Ten days after the start of Galungan, festivities
come to an end with Kuningan, which
celebrates purification.
On that day, the ancestors’ souls leave their
family’s temple after the celebrations of
Galungan and beautiful offerings are made
for the ancestors as they leave.

MELASTI - NYEPI
14 MARCH 2018
Melasti is a purification
ceremony, where the world is
cleansed of sin and bad karma.
Entire communities march to
the sea for purification - an
amazing sight of parasols, flags
and Balinese dressed all in white.
Inland, there are big celebrations
at all the local temples.
OGEH-OGEH
16 MARCH 2018
This incredible sight happens on
Nyepi Eve. Local communities
build very large effigies to scare
the bad spirits away. It is great fun
and, if you drive through the
countryside on the day before
Nyepi, you can see the finishing
touches being put to the statues
in the villages. That night the
monsters are paraded and then
burned at a central point.
NYEPI
17 MARCH 2018
Nyepi must be the world’s most chilled celebration of the New Year.
It is observed as a day of silence where nobody (tourists included), is
allowed to leave their home (or hotel – but you can still use the
facilities). The TV stations don't broadcast, the airport is closed and
there is a general shutdown from 6am until 6am the next day.
Any outdoor activity is policed and you can be fined quite heavily.
The reason for all this? Firstly, this day of calm gives Mother Earth a
much-needed chance to reboot after 364 days of activity. And
secondly, the evil spirits come down to earth on this day and, when
they see Bali completely deserted, they leave again for another year.

WE'RE HERE TO HELP
Whether you decide to stay with us or not, we know how
tedious, and time-consuming, it can be to plan a holiday and
get the information you need. We’re not travel agents but, if
you need our help, we can hopefully offer some tips to make
your stay in Bali even better.
CONTACT DETAILS
Mailie Green or Lauren Schnell
Email: info@globalvillasltd.com
Website: www.globalvillasltd.com
Telephone: +27 83 378 5632