CRYSTR2015_Istanbul_Guide
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<strong>Istanbul</strong>
Index<br />
<strong>Istanbul</strong><br />
History<br />
Neighbourhood Districts<br />
The Big Sights<br />
Eating/Drinking<br />
Bars/Clubs<br />
Arts/Entertainment<br />
Shopping/Fashion<br />
Sport/Leisure<br />
Media<br />
Practical Stuff<br />
Useful Words and Phrases<br />
p 4<br />
p 5<br />
p 6<br />
p 9<br />
p 11<br />
p 13<br />
p 15<br />
p 17<br />
p 20<br />
p 21<br />
p 22<br />
p 27<br />
3
<strong>Istanbul</strong> City <strong>Guide</strong><br />
Old <strong>Istanbul</strong> is the crowded streets of the<br />
Grand Bazaar, magnificent mosques, hamams<br />
(bathouses), and grand palaces of the<br />
Ottoman Empire. Headscarved women walk<br />
down the cobbled lanes and men smoke<br />
apple tobacco from a nargileh (water pipe) to<br />
a soundtrack of the Muezzin’s call to prayer.<br />
New <strong>Istanbul</strong> was voted 2007 design<br />
capital by Wallpaper* magazine.<br />
It’s boutiques selling one-offs by globally<br />
recognised Turkish designers and the<br />
Cihangir districts’ clubs, bars and<br />
restaurants rival Soho. The “<strong>Istanbul</strong> Modern” – showcases Turkey’s<br />
contemporary art. In <strong>Istanbul</strong> both these worlds co-exist. It’s a vital, ever<br />
changing city, charged with energy, creativity and commerce.<br />
.<br />
Other cities claim to be at the crossroads of Europe and Asia – but only<br />
<strong>Istanbul</strong> can legitimately claim to straddle both continents. Split by the<br />
Bosphorus the western bank of the city is in Europe whilst the eastern<br />
side is in Asia. <strong>Istanbul</strong> is surrounded on 3 sides by water – as well as the<br />
Bosphorus there is the Sea of Marmara to the south of the city, and a<br />
narrow inlet known as the Golden Horn splits the European side.<br />
<strong>Istanbul</strong> is one of the biggest cities in Europe – home to a population of approximately<br />
12 million. Its numbers are swelled daily by newcomers from the<br />
provinces, travelling to the city for work. Turkey has a very young population<br />
– the average age is 29. The average age in <strong>Istanbul</strong> is even younger at 23<br />
and some unofficial sources put it at 16. It’s also a university city, with over<br />
150,000 students attending the 3 big universities and dozens of colleges.<br />
Since 1923 Ankara has been the capital of Turkey, but <strong>Istanbul</strong> has always<br />
been and continues to be the financial and commercial capital. The country’s<br />
economy is one of the fastest growing in the world and the city has quadrupled<br />
in size over the last few decades.<br />
4
History<br />
Byzantium, Constantinople, <strong>Istanbul</strong> – the<br />
names which the city has been called during<br />
its 28 centuries of existence. Relics from<br />
all these periods still exist in <strong>Istanbul</strong>. During<br />
the Constantinople era which began in<br />
330AD, many stunning palaces, fountains<br />
and monumental churches were constructed.<br />
The city was the first Christian capital of the<br />
Eastern Roman Empire and over 900 years<br />
grew to become the wealthiest most splendid<br />
city in Europe, whilst Paris and London were<br />
still squalid towns. In 1453 Ottoman Sultan<br />
Mehmet 11 brought an end to Constantinople,<br />
bringing Islam to the city, changing churches into mosques and renaming the city<br />
<strong>Istanbul</strong>. Mehmet the Conqueror was responsible for the Topaki Palace and the<br />
Grand Bazaar and other grand mosques. The Ottoman Empire reached its zenith<br />
under Sultanate of Suleyman the Magnificent 1522-66.<br />
666BC Greek king Byzas establishes Byzantium.<br />
179BC Byzantium becomes part of the Roman Empire<br />
330AD Roman Emperor Constantine builds his new capital in the city and<br />
renames it Constantinople.<br />
1453 Ottoman Turks conquer Constantinople and name it <strong>Istanbul</strong>.<br />
1914 Ottoman Empire sides with Germany and Austria-Hungary during<br />
World War 1.<br />
1923 The Independent Republic of Turkey is established, with a new capital<br />
in Ankara.<br />
Although over 95% of the population are Muslin, <strong>Istanbul</strong> has a long history of<br />
tolerance and multi-culturism with Jewish and Christian traditions present in the city.<br />
Islamic fundamentalists targeted the city in 2003 with Al-Queda bombs aimed at<br />
Jewish synagogues, the British Consulate and HSBC Bank, killing 78 people.<br />
In 2005 Turkey entered formal talks to become a member of the European Union<br />
but whilst Turkey’s dispute with Greece over Cyprus remains unresolved many<br />
believe it can’t happen.<br />
5
Neighbourhood<br />
Districts<br />
European side<br />
Sultanahmet<br />
Sultanahmet is the district that all tourists<br />
head for. This is ancient <strong>Istanbul</strong> with all<br />
the sightseeing heavyweights packed<br />
together with must-see mosques, palaces<br />
and the Grand Bazaar. Compact and<br />
relatively traffic free compared to the rest of<br />
the city and easy to navigate around on foot.<br />
Eminonu and Cagaloglu<br />
Eminonu is the transport hub of <strong>Istanbul</strong>. Cagalogu is a warren of trade shops.<br />
Tunel and Karakoy<br />
Karakoy houses the city’s docks and harbour. Steep alleyways and the Genoese<br />
Galata Tower is the area’s towering landmark. Karakoy is the location for the<br />
“<strong>Istanbul</strong> Modern” contemporary art museum. Tunel takes its name from the<br />
tunnel that runs down to the sea from Istikal Caddesi (Independence Avenue)<br />
– the first municipal underground in Europe and still in operation.<br />
Beyoglu and Taksim<br />
The city’s heartland. Istiklal Caddesi (Independence Avenue) is a mile long<br />
pedestrianised grand boulevard cutting through Beyoglu. An ancient looking<br />
tram runs the length of Istikal Caddesi. Lined with nineteenth century former<br />
palaces and embassies which are now home to High Street brands. The Avenue<br />
is just as busy at night with pavement bars and restaurants serving the tourists.<br />
It’s said that up to a million people walk up or down Istikal Caddesi every day.<br />
The streets off Istiklal Caddesi retain their Bohemian past and are home to many<br />
interesting independent shops, cafes, bars, restaurants and clubs. Taksim square<br />
is at the heart of modern <strong>Istanbul</strong> but it’s large, busy and on the whole<br />
unappealing. Crossing the road here requires pedestrians take their life in their<br />
hands as traffic comes from every direction and doesn’t always stop at the traffic<br />
lights.<br />
Cihangir and Cukurcuma<br />
Bohemian area of the city – more Soho than <strong>Istanbul</strong>. The fashionistas have<br />
moved in on the area and it’s now riding high on a property boom. Despite this<br />
the area has a friendly small-town vibe and a thriving café society.<br />
6
Nisantasi and Macka<br />
Nisantasi is the upscale, upmarket, expensive area of town. Designer and luxury<br />
boutiques – Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Armani etc ; smart apartment blocks, good<br />
restaurants and people watching cafes. Abdi Ipekci Caddesi is a leafier version<br />
of Bond Street. The area doesn’t attract many tourists – rather it’s <strong>Istanbul</strong>’s<br />
super rich who come to shop.<br />
Ortakoy and Besiktas<br />
Besiktas is the grander of these 2 Bosphorus-based Suburbs, with a<br />
concentration of shoreline Ottoman palaces and pavilions. In the summer the<br />
waterfront of Ortakoy becomes party central, crowded with locals enjoying the<br />
bars, restaurants and super-clubbing venues.<br />
Levent and Etiler<br />
The financial heartland – lined with corporate skyscrapers and large financial<br />
institutions. Wealthy, with imposing villas glimpsed behind security fencing.<br />
Levent is the stomping ground of <strong>Istanbul</strong>’s rich and famous. This is the location<br />
of Turkey’s largest shopping mall – the Akmerkey, which was named best<br />
shopping centre in Europe in the mid 90s.<br />
Asian side<br />
Uskudar and Kadikoy<br />
Residential suburbs for those who work mainly on the European side, and make<br />
the daily commute by ferry across the Bosphorus. Not many tourists visit but<br />
locals flock to the bazaar in Kadikoy and to one of the city’s best street markets<br />
on Kusdili Sokak on Tuesdays for food and clothes, and on Sundays for the<br />
flea market.<br />
7
CARSAMBA<br />
AKSARAY<br />
HALICIOGU<br />
KULAKIZ<br />
Halic<br />
(Goldon Horn)<br />
NISANTASI<br />
KULAKSIZ<br />
MACKA<br />
LEVENT<br />
ETILER<br />
BESIKTAS<br />
BEYOGLU<br />
TAKSIM<br />
CUKURCUMA<br />
CIHANGIR<br />
<strong>Istanbul</strong> Bogazi<br />
(Bosphorus)<br />
TUNEL<br />
KARAKOY<br />
EMINONU<br />
CAGALOGLU<br />
SULTANAHMET<br />
Marmara Denizi<br />
KADAKOY<br />
ORTAKOY<br />
USKUDAR<br />
8
The Big Sights<br />
The top 5 are all in Sultanahmet – the ancient<br />
quarter of <strong>Istanbul</strong>.<br />
Aya Sofya – (also known as Hagia Sophia<br />
- The Church of the Divine Wisdom)<br />
This originally Christian basilica, is <strong>Istanbul</strong>’s<br />
finest site. Vast interior, stunning mosaics<br />
and a towering dome. The present building<br />
is the third to stand on the site. The first was<br />
built in AD360 during the reign of Constantius,<br />
but after flood and earthquake damage it was rebuilt<br />
many times until this final structure was completed in 537. For a thousand years<br />
this was the largest building in the world. When Ottoman Mehmet II conquered<br />
the city in 1453 his first act was to declare Aya Sofya a mosque. Apart from<br />
removing some of the marble crosses and whitewashing the mosaic icons he left<br />
the church as it was. The 4 Islamic minarets which now stand at the corners were<br />
added after the Turkish conquest. In 1935 Aya Sofya was declared a museum<br />
and is the most visited site in the country with more than 2 million visitors a year.<br />
Aya Sofya<br />
Aya Sofya Mydani<br />
Sultanahmet<br />
Tel: (0212) 522 1750<br />
Opening: 9am-7.30pm Closed Tue<br />
Admission: Charge<br />
Topkapi Palace<br />
For 400 years this pavilion palace was the residence of the Ottoman sultans<br />
who were the most powerful empire rulers in the world. Built by Mehmet the<br />
Conqueror shortly after his conquest in 1453, both as his command centre and as<br />
his indulgent home. The Palace is a city within a city consisting of interconnecting<br />
courts and between 5,000 and 7,000 people worked and lived inside to serve the<br />
sultan household. The Harem alone had 300 rooms – just 40 are open to<br />
the public.<br />
Topkapi Palace<br />
Bab-I Humayun Caddesi<br />
Gulhane, Sultanahmet<br />
Tel: (0212) 512 0480<br />
www.topkapisarayi.gov.tr<br />
Opening: 9am -7pm closed Tue<br />
Admission: Charge<br />
9
The Blue Mosque<br />
One of the most magnificent mosques in the Muslim world it takes its name<br />
from the blue iznik tiles which line its walls. Built during the reign of<br />
Sultan Ahmet (1603 – 1617) with 6 minerets, which at the time was a cause of<br />
controversy as only Mecca – the holiest site in Islam also had six. There is a<br />
stunning vast central dome.<br />
The Blue Mosque<br />
Sultanahmet Camii<br />
At Meydam Sokak 17<br />
Tel: (0212) 518 1319<br />
Opening hours: 5.30am - 7pm 7 days a week but closed during Prayer times<br />
Admission: Free but donations welcomed<br />
The Grand Bazaar (also know as Covered Bazaar)<br />
<strong>Istanbul</strong>’s famed emporium. The heart of the Bazaar dates from the Ottoman<br />
conquest of 1456-61 and is a labyrinth of passageways and corridors with 64<br />
streets, 3,000 shops, 22 entrances and 25,000 employees. It’s tourists who<br />
shop and barter here rather than locals. There is a huge range of goods<br />
including jewellery, antiques, leather goods, ceramics – and of course the<br />
infamous carpets.<br />
The Grand Bazaar<br />
Kapali Carsi,<br />
Beyazit<br />
Tel: (0212) 522 3173<br />
www.kapalicarsi.org.tr<br />
Opening: 8.30am – 7pm closed Sunday<br />
Admission: Free<br />
Suleymaniye Mosque<br />
This mosque dominates the ancient city skyline – standing on the highest hill.<br />
The mosque was the crowning achievement of the Ottoman susperstar chief<br />
architect - Mimar Sinan, who designed a vast number of buildings in <strong>Istanbul</strong>.<br />
Commissioned by Suleyman the Magnificent and completed in 1557 when the<br />
Ottoman Empire was at its height, as an Islamic answer to the Byzantine Aya<br />
Sofya. It’s the interior which is most impressive with a vast central dome and<br />
tiered domes surrounding it.<br />
Suleymaniye Mosque<br />
Tiryakiler Carsisi, Off Prof Siddik Sami Onar Caddesi<br />
Suleymaniye<br />
Opening: 9am-7pm daily<br />
Admission: Free<br />
10
Eating/drinking<br />
There is never a problem finding somewhere<br />
to eat and drink in <strong>Istanbul</strong> – from the street<br />
vendors selling grilled corn on the cob, simit<br />
– savoury bread with seasame seeds - and<br />
fresh grilled fish on the harbour – to the cafes<br />
and restaurants on almost every corner.<br />
Low-cost traditional Turkish “meyhanes”<br />
(tavernas) serve “mezes” – small dishes of<br />
starters and dips– usually cold. Boreks are<br />
another traditional Turkish snack – a savoury<br />
pastry filled with anything from cheese or<br />
vegetables or meat. Dolmas are stuffed –<br />
usally peppers or vine leaves. And of course there are grilled<br />
meat kebabs. The district of Kumkapi on the Sea of Marmara, close to<br />
Sultanahmet is packed with lively harbourside seafood restaurants and<br />
meyhanes.<br />
Traditional non-alcoholic drinking can be tea – herbal or straight – served in small<br />
tulip-shaped glasses – never with milk but always with sugar. Everyone you visit<br />
offers you a glass and it’s considered rude to refuse. Turkish coffee is black and<br />
very strong in tiny cups. Turkish wines are fine – but wine is generally<br />
expensive in restaurants. The stronger stuff is raki – an aniseed-flavour clear<br />
spirit that turns cloudy when water is added. The centuries old tradition of<br />
smoking apple flavoured tobacco through a narghile (a waterpipe) is kept alive<br />
in coffee houses. One guide-book fixture is Erenler Narghile – one of the oldest<br />
and most famous located in a Ottoman building in Sultanahmet, packed with<br />
students from the nearby university. Narghile smoking has fairly recently had a<br />
revival and become popular with young <strong>Istanbul</strong>ites – male and female.<br />
The centuries old tradition of smoking apple flavoured tobacco through a narghile<br />
(a hubble-bubble waterpipe) is kept alive in coffee houses. One guide-book<br />
fixture is Erenler Narghile – one of the oldest and most famous located in a<br />
Ottoman building in Sultanahmet, packed with students from the nearby<br />
university. Narghile smoking has fairly recently had a revival and become<br />
popular with young <strong>Istanbul</strong>ites – male and female.<br />
There is no shortage of uber-stylish restaurants and bars serving international<br />
and fusion cuisine to <strong>Istanbul</strong>’s style conscious.<br />
Some highlights;-<br />
360<br />
360 is a modern glass sided penthouse sitting on the roof of a 19th century<br />
building on Istiklal Caddesi - which does what is says on the tin – stunning 360<br />
degree views of the surrounding Beyoglu district and the Bosphurus. Popular<br />
with both visitors and locals it’s a bar, restaurant and lounging spot serving up a<br />
global fusion menu to beautiful people.<br />
11
360, Misir Apartmenti, Istiklal Caddesi 311, Beyoglu<br />
Tel: (0212) 251 1042<br />
Opening: Lunch Mon-Fri, Dinner daily<br />
Changa<br />
One of the pioneers of south-east Asian and European fusion Changa is still<br />
top dog. Despite being on an unlovely street – Siraselviler Caddesi – it has an<br />
imposing entrance into a beautiful art nouveau building. The owners have also<br />
more recently opened Muzedechanga on Istiklal Caddesi – an equally stylish<br />
sequel with 60s and 70s interior.<br />
Changa, Siraselviler Caddesi 87, Taksim<br />
Tel: (0212) 249 1348<br />
Opening: 6pm-1am Mon-Sat<br />
Vogue<br />
This bar/restaurant has been going for 10 years and is now an <strong>Istanbul</strong> cool<br />
institution. Drinks are served on the 13th floor terrace overlooking Besiktas<br />
Plazai, and there’s a top-notch sushi bar.<br />
Vogue, Spor Caddesi 92, BJK Plaza A Blok 13, Akaretler, Besiktas<br />
Tel: (0212) 227 4404<br />
Opening: Mon-Sat 12-3am, Sun 11-11<br />
Kiyi<br />
Eating out at the fish restaurants that line both sides of the Bosphorus is a<br />
summer-time must for <strong>Istanbul</strong>ites. Kiki is the five star pick, with pavement tables<br />
and views over a picturesque mini harbour in Tarabya.<br />
Kiyi, Kefelikoy, Caddesi 126, Tarabya<br />
Tel: (0212) 262 0002 / 269 6920<br />
Opening: noon-midnight<br />
Ulus 29<br />
On a hill overlooking the Bosphorus in the leafy surroundings of Ulus Park<br />
– great location – but a fair taxi ride from the centre. The 29 in the name refers<br />
to the 29 traditional Ottoman and east Mediterranean dishes on the menu.<br />
Cocktails are served on the terrace with great sea views. Next door is Club 29.<br />
Ulus 29, 1 Kireçhane Sokak, Adnan Saygun Caddesi, Ulus Park. l<br />
Tel: (0212) 265 6181<br />
12
Bars/Clubs<br />
The district of Beyoglu is heaven for bar hopping. Avoid the main Avenue<br />
– Istiklal Caddesi and head for the side streets off the main drag which are<br />
packed with watering holes. In the summer <strong>Istanbul</strong> is party central and<br />
the club scene is booming. The waterfront district of Orkatoy is the place for<br />
“superclubs” which party until dawn.<br />
Europe’s most celebrated dance djs stop off in <strong>Istanbul</strong>. Partying doesn’t get<br />
started until after midnight and the best time to be there is between 1am and<br />
4am.<br />
Weekends are the busiest – but some clubs have special nights<br />
on Wednesdays and Thursdays. New venues surface all the<br />
time - these are some of the established clubs ;-<br />
Crystal<br />
Electronic and techno. Weekends packed, Thursdays are relaxed with house<br />
sounds.<br />
Crystal, Muallim Naci Caddesi 65, Ortakoy<br />
Tel: (0212) 278 4578<br />
Opening: Midnight-5.30am Thur-Sat<br />
Cahide On5<br />
Kitsch interior and transvestite staff. Cocktails are served up to a camp pop<br />
soundtrack.<br />
Cahide On5, 193 Mesrutiyet Caddesi, Beyoglu<br />
Tel: (0212) 292 7368<br />
Opening: 9.30pm-4am Tue-Sat<br />
Reina<br />
<strong>Istanbul</strong>’s most famous club. A swanky “superclub” with paparazzi lined up outside<br />
to snap the c-list celebs and playboys and girls who arrive in sports cars or<br />
speedboats. Turkish and euromed pop soundtrack. Drinks are very expensive.<br />
Reina, Muallim Naci Caddesi 44<br />
Tel: (0212) 259 5918<br />
Opening: Mon-Sun<br />
13
Anjelique<br />
Another chic “superclub” – but not as exclusive as Reina. Resident and guest djs<br />
and stunning views of the Bosphorus.<br />
Anjelique, Muallim Naci Cad, Salhane sok, No:5, Ortakoy<br />
Tel: (0212) 327 2844<br />
Opening: 6pm-4am<br />
Blackk<br />
Is <strong>Istanbul</strong>’s Euro trash 5 star nightclub with black banquettes, huge glitter balls<br />
and gold chain mail curtains.<br />
Blackk, Muallim Naci Cad, No: 71, Ortakoy<br />
Tel: (0212) 236 7256<br />
One off raves and festivals are popular throughout the summer and are held at<br />
the Maslak Venue in the Maslak district, or at Yeni Melek – a concert and party<br />
venue in Beyoglu. During the summer parties move out of town to Solar Beach<br />
or Burc Beach on the Black Sea coast.<br />
14
Arts/Entertainment<br />
Turkish pop and rock is popular and can be<br />
heard on radio station Power FM and in bars<br />
and clubs. <strong>Istanbul</strong> will be one of 3 European<br />
Cities of Culture in 2010.<br />
Music<br />
Many of <strong>Istanbul</strong>’s live music venues are on<br />
the backs streets which run off Istiklal<br />
Caddesi in Beyoglu.<br />
Babylon<br />
An underground brick vault, this is <strong>Istanbul</strong>’s best live music<br />
venue. Electronica, jazz, international and world music can be<br />
heard here.<br />
Babylon, Sehbender Sokak 3, Tunel<br />
Tel: (0212) 292 7368<br />
Opening: Tue-Sat<br />
Mojo<br />
The place for head-banging rock. Cover bands play rock classics from midnight.<br />
Mojo, Buyukparmakkapi Sokak 26 off Istiklal Caddesi<br />
Tel: (0212) 243 2927 / 243 2991<br />
Opening: 10pm-4am daily<br />
Peyote<br />
Alternative sounds. Spread over several floors – with a small performance area<br />
for live local bands.<br />
Peyote, Kalyoncu Kullugu Caddesi 42, off Nevizade Sokak, Beyoglu<br />
Tel: (0212) 251 4398<br />
Opening: Midnight-4am daily<br />
Riddim<br />
A mix of genres – one floor is hip hop, one rock and another R&B.<br />
Riddim, Siraselviler Caddesi 69/1, Taksim<br />
Tel: (0212) 251 2723<br />
Opening: 9pm-4am daily<br />
15
Belly Dancing<br />
Beloved of package tourists a belly dancing and harem show can be booked<br />
at the Galata tower. Belly dancing originated in Egypt rather than Turkey, but<br />
can be traced back to the days of the Sultans, when both men and women<br />
danced for the Sultan’s entertainment. Male belly dancers still perform in<br />
<strong>Istanbul</strong>. There is a thriving transvestite and transsexual community in <strong>Istanbul</strong><br />
and drag queens work in clubs like Cahide On5 in Beyoglu.<br />
Galata Tower, Galata Square<br />
Tel: (0212) 293 8180<br />
Opening: 9am-8pm<br />
Admission: Charge<br />
16
Shopping/Fashion<br />
With dozens of independent stores, state of<br />
the art shopping malls and bazaars and<br />
markets there is plenty of choice and<br />
competition. Big names are Mavi Jeans<br />
– the equivalent of Levis, and Beyman<br />
Department stores. Fashion is a big deal in<br />
<strong>Istanbul</strong> and Turkey is the 4th largest exporter<br />
of ready make garments in the world. Turkish<br />
furniture designers such as Derin Design and<br />
Gaia & Gino are already stars.<br />
The Grand Bazaar<br />
Deli Kizin Yeri, 82 Halicilar Cad, Grand Bazaar, Tel: (0212) 526 1251<br />
Deli Kiz means “crazy lady” – the name given to this shop in the Grand Bazaar<br />
by owner American Linda Caldwell. The shop has built a thriving business by<br />
re-inventing traditional Turkish handicrafts. Linda sells place mats, handbags,<br />
pillows and dolls all with Turkish motifs to both tourists and locals.<br />
Ethicon, Kapalycarsy Takkeciler Sok 58-60, Grand Bazaar<br />
Short for ethnic contemporary. The owner creates “fusion” carpets created from<br />
bits of rugs and other materials. The rugs and kilims are ethically produced using<br />
environmentally friendly processes.<br />
Beyoglu District<br />
Many American and European brands manufacture their clothing in Turkey and<br />
<strong>Istanbul</strong> now has a thriving market in seconds and overruns which can be bought<br />
at shops in Beyoglu. Off Istiklal Caddesi are several pasajs – covered arcades<br />
- stacked with knock-down clothes in bins or on rails. This is also the place to<br />
track down fake copies of well known brands.<br />
Atlas Pasaji, Off Isktikal Caddesi, Beyoglu<br />
Similar to Camden Market in London – with a grungy vibe. As well as clothes it<br />
sells jewellery and kitsch collectibles.<br />
Beyoglu Is Merkezi, Beyoglu is Merkezi 365, off Istikal Caddesi, Beyoglu<br />
A large pasaji with 3 underground floors. Bargains here are sporty lines and<br />
denim.<br />
17
Cihangir and Cukurcuma District<br />
These are the original Bohemian districts with a Soho feel.<br />
Evihan, Altipatlar Sokak 8, Cukurcuma, Tel: (0212) 227 2216<br />
The owner combines fragments of Iznik tile and silver to produce hand-made<br />
accessories, beaded glass ornaments, delicate one-off clothes, handbags and<br />
shoes.<br />
Suzanne Simon, Faikpasa Yokusu 1, Cukurcuma, Tel: (0212) 244 9663<br />
Suzanne Simon is an American textile designer inspired the embroidered<br />
Ottoman textiles. Previously she worked for Turkish fashion house Vakko – now<br />
her products are sold to high end designer stores like Barneys in New York.<br />
Mine Kerse, Faik Pasa Yokusu Tel: (0212) 249 3561<br />
Former assistant to well known Turkish designer Umit Unal, Mine Kerse produces<br />
beautifully crafted hats and handbags from felt and leather from her studio above<br />
the shop.<br />
Pied de Poule, Faik Pasa Yokusu 19/1, Tel: (0212) 245 8116<br />
Vintage fashion from the 30s – including gloves, hats, handbags as well as<br />
furniture.<br />
Bis Wear, Aznavur Pasaji 212-213, Galatasaray, Cukurcuma,<br />
Tel: (0212) 292 9700<br />
Owned by 2 sisters – who started making hats from unusual fabrics and who<br />
branched out into matching shoes, handbags and belts.<br />
Nisantasi District<br />
This is the upmarket designer exclusive shopping district.<br />
Ayca, Atiye Sokak 7/8, Tesvikiye 34367, Tel: (0212) 219 2511<br />
Ayca is a showroom on the 2nd floor of an apartment building – but that doesn’t<br />
deter those who wish to snap up Ayca’s colourful surreal designs. Ayca is a<br />
fashion designer who has studied at St Martins in London. She designs jewellery<br />
and paints her dreams on canvas. Instead of curtains the windows are covered<br />
with white painted Barbie dolls.<br />
Ottoman Empire, Sakayik Sokak 59/1, Tesvikiye, Tel: (0212) 296 5619<br />
The owners produce t-shirts by taking Ottoman motifs and adding English<br />
phrases and pop designs. Tiny shop on the ground floor of an apartment<br />
building.<br />
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City’s, Tesvikiye Street, Nisantasi Tel: (0212) 373 3333<br />
This is one of <strong>Istanbul</strong>’s newest malls – with liveried door staff and a huge screen<br />
outside which blasts Fashion TV into the street below.<br />
Etelier and Ulus Districts<br />
These districts are home to some of <strong>Istanbul</strong>’s biggest and best malls and a great<br />
clothing bazaar.<br />
Akmerkez, Alisyeris Merkezi, Nispetive Caddesi, Etler<br />
Upmarket slick mall with 250 shops.<br />
Cevahir, Buyukdere Cad no.22, Sisli<br />
Over 6 floors this is Europe’s biggest mall. The most popular of <strong>Istanbul</strong>’s 40 or<br />
so malls and always crowded.<br />
Levant District<br />
Kanyon, Buyukdere Cad, Kanyon Alybverib Merkezi<br />
The Kanyon mall – designed – to be like a canyon! A sophisticated up market<br />
mall with Harvey Nicks, and Wagamama.<br />
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Sport/Leisure<br />
Football<br />
Only one sport counts in <strong>Istanbul</strong> and that’s football. There are 3 teams who<br />
play in the city – Besiktas, Fenerbahce and Galatasaray who dominate the<br />
Turkish league season (Aug – May).<br />
Almost every male in Turkey supports one of the big <strong>Istanbul</strong> 3 – no matter<br />
where he lives – with his local team coming second choice. Basketball is<br />
also popular.<br />
Turkish Baths<br />
Taking to the water in a Turkish bath (hamam) is a century old tradition in<br />
<strong>Istanbul</strong>. Cemberlitas Hamami is right in the heart of the ancient quarter in<br />
Sultanahmet. Its been a baths since the 16th century and is now mostly<br />
visited by tourists rather than locals, but it’s an architectural treasure.<br />
Full of marble domes the baths were designed by Ottoman architect superstar<br />
Mimar Sinan. Clients are soaped, scrubbed, massaged and washed down by<br />
attendants in single sex sections of the baths. None of the hamams are<br />
officially gay but there are several unofficial male only gay local hamam<br />
across <strong>Istanbul</strong>.<br />
Cemberlitas Hamami, Vezirhan Caddesi 8, Cemberlitas<br />
Tel: (0212) 522 7974<br />
Opening: 6am –midnight daily<br />
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Media<br />
The daily English language newspaper is Turkish Daily News and there is a<br />
monthly Turkish Business World. The monthly Time Out <strong>Istanbul</strong> is good for<br />
reviews and up-to-date listings. There is also a bi-monthly listings guide called<br />
<strong>Istanbul</strong>: The <strong>Guide</strong>.<br />
Radio<br />
The airwaves in the city are crammed with radio stations. Stations usually offer<br />
Turkish or English language music. For dance and pop there’s Kiss FM, Metro FM<br />
or Power FM. For Turkish music there’s Kral FM, Lokum FM and Best FM.<br />
TV<br />
There are over 100 channels and Turkey has its own music channel - Power Turk<br />
– which plays exclusively Turkish music. There is also MTV Turkey.<br />
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Practical Stuff<br />
Safety and Scams<br />
Pickpockets operate in the areas around Taksim and other busy tourist areas.<br />
Care should be taken with wallets, bags and mobile phones.<br />
If approached by anyone asking you for money – in particular young men, who<br />
can be glue or thinner addicts – be careful if you revoke them – don’t be aggressive<br />
or shout or push them as this can provoke retaliation. Instead, either<br />
give them small change, without letting them see that you have more money, or<br />
refuse politely.<br />
Passports<br />
Your passport should be valid for at least six months on entry into Turkey.<br />
A visa is required for British nationals to enter Turkey which can be bought by<br />
British citizens at the airport on entry to Turkey for ten pounds. Do this before<br />
you join the long queue for passport control – otherwise you’ll have to queue up<br />
twice!<br />
Local Laws and Customs<br />
• Turkey has strict laws against the use, possession or trafficking of illegal<br />
drugs. If you are convicted of any of these offences, you can expect to<br />
receive a heavy fine or a prison sentence of four to 24 years.<br />
• It is illegal not to carry some form of photographic ID in Turkey. It is therefore<br />
advisable to carry a photocopy of your passport with you at all times, storing<br />
the original in a safe place.<br />
• Do not take photographs near military or official installations.<br />
• Dress modestly if visiting a mosque or a religious shrine. Visitors should<br />
remove their shoes and women should cover their heads and arms, and<br />
not wear shorts or miniskirts.<br />
• If offered a glass of tea it is considered rude to refuse.<br />
• It is an offence to insult the Turkish nation or the national flag, or to deface<br />
or tear up currency.<br />
• The export of antiquities is prohibited and carries a prison sentence<br />
from five to ten years.<br />
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Tipping<br />
In cheaper restaurants it’s not necessary to leave more than a few coins in<br />
the change plate. In an average restaurant although tipping is not compulsory,<br />
people leave around 5%. In more expensive restaurants, 10 % is usual.<br />
Taxis don’t expect a tip but it’s usual to round up the change to the nearest lira.<br />
Water<br />
It is recommended that you drink bottled water.<br />
Money<br />
Turkey’s currency is the Turkish Lira.<br />
Exchange rate:<br />
Great Britain Pounds<br />
1 GBP = 2.31 Lira<br />
5 GBP = 11.55 Lira<br />
10 GBP = 23.10 Lira<br />
Turkey New Lira<br />
1 Lira = 0.41GBP<br />
5 Lira = 2.05 GBP<br />
10 Lira = 4.10 BP<br />
The New Turkish Lira comes in notes of 5, 10, 20, 50 and 100. The New Kuruş<br />
comes in coins of 5, 10, 25, 50 and one New Turkish Lira. One hundred New<br />
Kuruş equals one New Turkish Lira.<br />
With a credit or debit card you can withdraw local currency from cash machines.<br />
There are also cash machines in the arrivals halls at most airports. Credit cards<br />
are widely accepted in hotels, restaurants and shops.<br />
The Euro is highly valued as a form of payment (far more than the dollar), and<br />
can be used to pay for large purchases or services - e.g. of a tour guide.<br />
Cost of Living<br />
Minimum wage in Turkey is TL608 a month – approximately £260 a month<br />
Blue collar average is £350 -£500 a month<br />
White collar average is £450 - £750 a month<br />
Professional/highly skilled is £900 - £3000 a month<br />
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Sample price guide<br />
Prices in TL<br />
Small bottle of water 1.30<br />
Movie ticket 4.00- 10.00<br />
Night club entry 5.00-30.00<br />
Hamam bath and massage 10.00-60.00<br />
Bosphorus ferry ride 1.5 (one way)<br />
Café latte 4.00<br />
Local information<br />
Time: GMT+2hours (summer)<br />
Sunrise and sunset<br />
Mid June: Sunrise, 05:30. Sunset, 20:35<br />
Weather<br />
In summer the weather in <strong>Istanbul</strong> is hot and humid, the temperature between<br />
June and September averaging 82 °F (28°C). Summers are relatively dry, but<br />
rain does occur all year round. During winter it is cold, wet and often snowy.<br />
Snowfalls tend to be heavy, but temperatures rarely drop as low as freezing<br />
point. <strong>Istanbul</strong> also tends to be a windy city.<br />
Dialling codes<br />
The international country dialling code dialling from the UK for Turkey is +90.<br />
The outgoing code is from Turkey to the UK is 00, followed by the relevant country<br />
code (e.g. 0044 for the United Kingdom).<br />
Within <strong>Istanbul</strong> the Europe side and the Asia side of the city have different<br />
codes.<br />
To dial between them use ;<br />
Asya (Asia side) 0216<br />
Avrupa (Europe side) 0212.<br />
If dialling within the European side to a European number from a land line drop<br />
the 0212 code. If dialling within the Asian side to an Asian number from a land<br />
line drop the 0216 code.<br />
To dial an <strong>Istanbul</strong> number from a mobile then use the prefixs 0212 for Europe<br />
and 0216 for Asia.<br />
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Electricity<br />
220 Volt, 50 Hz<br />
2 prong round pin plugs.<br />
Working hours<br />
Government offices: 8:30 am - 12:30 pm; 1:30 pm-5:30 pm (Closed Saturday<br />
and Sundays)<br />
Banks: 8:30 am - 12:00 pm; 1:30 pm-5:00 pm (Closed Saturday and Sundays)<br />
Shops: 9:30 am - 7:00 pm (In busy tourist areas some close around midnight)<br />
Public Transport<br />
• <strong>Istanbul</strong> traffic is a major problem and often experiences gridlock particularly<br />
on the bridges. Fortunately the 2 busiest areas for visitors – Sultanahmet and<br />
Beyoglu are easy to get round on foot.<br />
• There are numerous private and state-owned city buses but because of the<br />
traffic jams in the city they can be slow and uncomfortable with services<br />
coming to a virtual halt at 11pm. Buses are useful for heading up the<br />
Bosphor coast to Ortakoy. To travel from the European side to the Asian<br />
side it’s best to travel by ferry. There are numerous docks along<br />
Eminönü Quay. To travel to the shopping and business districts of Nisantasi,<br />
Etilier and Levent the best way is via the metro line that runs north<br />
from Taksim.<br />
• There are two tramways on the European side. A quick, modern commuter<br />
tram runs from Kabatas, then over the Galata bridge through Eminönü,<br />
Sultanahmet, Beyazit (for the Grand Bazaar) and onto outlying suburbs.<br />
• Bus, metro, ferry and tram tickets are cheap and usually available near the<br />
main stops, either from a kiosk, all main bus and metro stops and ferry<br />
terminals or a private seller, who adds about 25% to the price. An akbil<br />
(electronic token) is available for purchase in advance, with a small returnable<br />
deposit. This is valid for a number of journeys, slightly cheaper and more<br />
convenient for buses, ferries, the Tünel, and the metro.<br />
25
Taxis<br />
It’s easy to find a yellow taxi – which can be hailed almost anywhere in the<br />
street. Insist on the meter always being used, The night rate (2400-0600) is<br />
50% more than the day rate, so visitors should check the correct rate is on<br />
the meter - ‘Gündüz’ means day and ‘Gece’ night, which should be digitally<br />
displayed. Alternatively, one light indicates the day meter and two lights the<br />
night meter. Taxis are cheap compared to European levels, with the day rate<br />
of TL1.50 a mile. Sultanahment to Taksim Sq costs around TL6. Taxi drivers<br />
can overcharge tourists, so if possible try to take a cab from an official stand or<br />
from outside a hotel.<br />
The dolmus is a large, yellow shared minibus taxi, which runs a fixed short,<br />
circular route, such as Taksim-Besiktas with the starting points and final<br />
destination displayed in the window. With no set stops – flag down the driver<br />
to get on and shout to get off. For local journeys there is a fixed fare, which is<br />
around TL 1.50. There are smaller, blue minibus dolmus, which do longer<br />
journeys within the city and suburbs and cram as many standing passengers as<br />
it can possibly fit. Payment is in cash, upon boarding, costing a little more than<br />
the bus, especially for longer journeys.<br />
Driving in the City<br />
Hire cars are not recommended because of terrible traffic jams, worse driving<br />
and a shortage of parking.<br />
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Useful Words and Phrases<br />
Sg = singular; Pl = plural; frm = formal; inf = informal<br />
Welcome<br />
Hoş geldin (sg)<br />
Hoş geldiniz (pl/frm)<br />
Hosh geldin<br />
Hosh geldinizz<br />
-o as in top<br />
-g as in get<br />
-o as in top<br />
-g as in get<br />
Hello Merhaba, Mairhubba -air as in hair<br />
How are you? Nasılsınız? (frm) NAHS-suhl-suh-nuhz<br />
I’m fine, thanks. And you?<br />
İyiyim teşekkür ederim, siz<br />
nasılsınız (frm)<br />
ee-yeem teshek-kur<br />
edderrim<br />
-ee as in meet<br />
-e as in get<br />
-u as in French<br />
Vu<br />
-err as in merry<br />
İyiyim sağol, sen nasılsın<br />
(inf)<br />
Seez nussilssiniz<br />
ee-yeem saa-ol<br />
-ee as in meet<br />
-aa as in father<br />
-g is silent<br />
-ol as in olive<br />
What’s your name? Adın ne? (inf) Udden ne -e as in get<br />
My name is… Adım Uddem -e as in the<br />
Where are you from? Nerelisin? (inf) Nerrelisseen -err as in merry<br />
Pleased to meet you<br />
Tanıştıǧımıza memnun<br />
oldum /<br />
Memnun oldum<br />
Tuneshte-emezzaa<br />
memnoon oldoom<br />
Memnoon oldoom<br />
-e as in the<br />
-g as in silent<br />
-ol as in olive<br />
-ol as in olive<br />
Good morning Günaydın Guni-denn -u as in Fr. Vu<br />
-I as in high<br />
-e as in the<br />
Good afternoon Tünaydın, İyi günler Tuni-denn ee-yee gunlair -u as in Fr. Vu<br />
-I as in high<br />
-ee as in meet<br />
-air as in hair<br />
27
Good evening İyi akşamlar ee-yee uckshumlaar -u as in luck<br />
Good night İyi geceler ee-yee gejjelair -g as in get<br />
-j as in jack<br />
-air as in hair<br />
Goodbye Allaha ısmarladık Ulla-haa essmaar luddek -u as in cup<br />
Good luck İyi şanslar! ee-yee shunsslaar -u as in cup<br />
Yes Evet Evvett<br />
No hayır Hi-yur I as in high<br />
Ur as in fur<br />
Please Lütfen Lutfen -u as in fr. Vu<br />
Have a nice day İyi günler! ee- yee gunlair -g as in get<br />
-u as in fr. Vu<br />
-air as in hair<br />
I don’t understand Anlamıyorum, Anlamadım Unlumme-yawroom<br />
Unlummedem<br />
-u as in cup<br />
-u as in cup<br />
Please speak more slowly Lütfen daha yavaş konuşun Luften daa-haa yuvvush<br />
konnooshoon<br />
-u as in Fr. Vu<br />
-u as in cup<br />
-o as in top<br />
Please write it down for me Lütfen yazınız Luften yezzenez -u as in Fr. Vu<br />
How much/many?<br />
Kaç/<br />
kaç tane?<br />
Kutch<br />
Kutch taane<br />
-u as in cup<br />
Sorry<br />
Özür dilerim (frm),<br />
Pardon (inf)<br />
Ozur deelerrim<br />
paardonn<br />
-o as in Fr. Peu<br />
-u as in Fr. Vu<br />
-err as in merry<br />
Thanks Teşekkürler. Sağ ol. Mersi. Teshek- kurlair saa-ol<br />
Mairssee<br />
-u as in French Vu<br />
-g is silent<br />
-air as in hair<br />
Where’s the toilet? Tuvalet nerede? Toovullett nerrede -u as in cup<br />
-err as in merry<br />
-e as in get<br />
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How do you say ... in<br />
Turkish?<br />
Türkçe’de ... nasıl denir? Turktchede nussil deneer -u as in Fr. Vu<br />
-tch as in church<br />
-e as in get<br />
-u as in cup<br />
Help!<br />
Fire!<br />
İmdat!<br />
Yangın!<br />
Eemdaat<br />
Yung-gen<br />
-u as in cup<br />
-g as in get<br />
-e as in the<br />
Stop!<br />
Dur!<br />
Door<br />
-oo as in poor<br />
Call the police! Polis çağırın! Poleess chaaren -o as in olive<br />
-ch as in church<br />
-aa as in father<br />
-e as in the<br />
Receipt fiş Feesh<br />
Please can I have a receipt Lütfen mabuz alabilir miyim? Lutfen muckbooz ullubileer<br />
mee-yim<br />
-u as in French Vu<br />
-u as in cup<br />
-ee as in street<br />
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1 bir BEER<br />
2 iki ee-KEE<br />
3 üç EWCH<br />
4 dört DURRT<br />
5 beş BEHSH<br />
6 alti ahl-TUH<br />
7 yedi yeh-DEE<br />
8 sekiz seh-KEEZ<br />
9 dokuz doh-KOOZ<br />
10 on OHN<br />
11 on bir ohn BEER<br />
12 on iki ohn ee-KEE<br />
13 on üç ohn EWCH<br />
20 yirmi yeer-MEE<br />
30 otuz oh-TOOZ<br />
40 kirk KUHRK<br />
50 elli ehl-LEE<br />
60 altmış ahlt-MUSH<br />
70 yetmiş yeht-MEESH<br />
80 seksen sehk-SEHN<br />
90 doksan dohk-SAHN<br />
100 yüz YEWZ<br />
200 iki yüz ee-KEE yewz<br />
1000 bin BEEN<br />
2000 iki bin ee-KEE been<br />
10,000 on bin OHN been<br />
30