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THE POST - SPRING 2018

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<strong>THE</strong> LONG READ <strong>SPRING</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>SPRING</strong> <strong>2018</strong> <strong>THE</strong> LONG READ<br />

18<br />

DR SEAN GAMMON<br />

Senior Lecturer<br />

Lancashire School of Business and Enterprise<br />

DR DAVID JARRATT<br />

Senior Lecturer<br />

Lancashire School of Business and Enterprise<br />

PROF RICHARD SHARPLEY<br />

Professor of Tourism<br />

Lancashire School of Business and Enterprise<br />

“The panoramic vistas of Morecambe<br />

Bay inspire a sense of awe”<br />

19<br />

Following decades of slow decline, Morecambe’s humiliation was<br />

complete in 2003 when it was awarded the dubious honour of third<br />

place in Sam Jordison’s provocative book Crap Towns: The 50 Worst<br />

Places to Live in the UK. The publication was conceived after the<br />

Lancashire-born journalist paid a visit to the seaside town and was<br />

horrified by what he saw. The pages of his humorous yet damning<br />

compendium are crammed with photographs of derelict seaside<br />

attractions and pitiful tales of decline, political blunders and faded<br />

dreams. Derided as “the seaside town they never should have opened,”<br />

Morecambe shared the podium of shame with the Scottish ‘new town’<br />

of Cumbernauld (in second place) and the ‘winners’, Yorkshire’s<br />

perennial whipping boy, Hull (although, thanks to its role as UK City of<br />

Culture in 2017, its star now appears to be on the rise).<br />

The Lancashire town’s public shaming came during a spell when the Council<br />

were still licking their wounds from an ill-fated endeavour to regenerate<br />

Morecambe’s economy. They had recently been forced to cough up around £2m<br />

(including legal fees) following a bitter wrangle with television personality Noel<br />

Edmonds; the fallout from their decision in 1994 to invest millions in the new<br />

‘World of Crinkly Bottom Theme Park’ which opened to much fanfare in July that<br />

year before closing for good only months later. Clearly its backers had overestimated<br />

the pulling power of a pink spotted menace named Mr Blobby and his<br />

creator, Edmonds. The pursuit of this bearded messiah brought little salvation for<br />

struggling Morecambe.<br />

It had all been so different. The golden age of the resort lasted from the early<br />

19th century right through until the middle of the 20th century, peaking either<br />

side of the Second World War. It became a popular watering hole for the<br />

holidaying masses who descended on the seafront to take in the coastal air and<br />

unwind at fun-filled attractions like the Summer Gardens (opened in 1878),<br />

Winter Gardens (1897), The Tower (1898), Alhambra Palace Theatre (1901) and<br />

the Central and West End Piers (1869, 1896). Thrill-seekers could ride the boneshaking<br />

rollercoasters that zipped through the West End Amusement Park<br />

(opened in 1906, later given a ‘Wild West’ makeover and re-launched as Frontier<br />

Land in 1987). Over 100,000 tourists thronged the length of the promenade for<br />

its lights switch-on events in the lead-up to Christmas 1949 and 1950, while the<br />

Miss Great Britain contest in the open air swimming baths was a major draw.<br />

FADED GRANDEUR<br />

Gradually, the rot set in. Domestic competition intensified. As the popularity of<br />

the motor car soared, holidaymakers could freely explore the length and<br />

breadth of Britain where previously their travels had been confined to resorts<br />

situated conveniently along railway lines. Cornwall, the Lake District and other<br />

scenic hotspots thrived at Morecambe’s expense. As the 1970s arrived the resort<br />

sank into an apologetic shadow of its glory days. Its prized assets were stripped<br />

away one-by-one. The Alhambra, West End Pier, lido and others closed, leaving<br />

behind a sorry succession of hollowed-out dwellings. By the 1980s cheap flights<br />

and package holidays were more affordable to ordinary working people and<br />

holidaymakers spurned Morecambe in favour of the Costa del Sol and other<br />

sun-kissed foreign shorelines.<br />

Hundreds of guesthouses whose stubborn ‘No vacancies’ signs had once<br />

illuminated the seafront in neon lettering began to close as visitor numbers<br />

nosedived. A chronic lack of investment (particularly compared to Blackpool, its<br />

glitzier coastal sibling) compounded this decline. Its shoreline still twinkled with<br />

the alluring lights from grubby bingo halls and gaudy amusement arcades; the<br />

sea air still carried the evocative aromas of candyfloss and fish and chips. But<br />

the magic had gone. By the late 1980s Morecambe could hardly call itself a<br />

tourist destination any longer. Visitor spending collapsed, from £46.6m in 1973<br />

to £6.5m in 1990. By the time its second pier closed down in 1986, all but one of<br />

its major attractions had gone. At its lowest ebb the town couldn’t even sustain<br />

a single cinema – this closed in 1988. Frontier Land, with its white knuckle<br />

thrills, staggered on until 2000.<br />

Unemployment in some wards soared to over 50% in the 1980s, earning<br />

Morecambe the regrettable moniker ‘The Costa del Dole.’ A raft of socioeconomic<br />

problems blighted the town. An abundance of cheap temporary<br />

accommodation in the form of hundreds of empty guesthouses encouraged<br />

some authorities to treat troubled seaside resorts as dumping grounds for<br />

society’s most problematic and disadvantaged people. Hotels which once<br />

thronged with holidaying families now harboured drug addicts and<br />

ex-offenders.<br />

<strong>THE</strong> TIDE IS TURNING<br />

In recent years, however, Morecambe has been fighting back. “Over the past<br />

decade or so there have been some encouraging green shoots of recovery,” says<br />

Sean Gammon, Senior Lecturer at Lancashire School of Business and Enterprise.<br />

“Some areas of the resort, notably around the promenade, have benefited from<br />

significant investment. When the iconic art deco Midland Hotel was re-opened<br />

by Urban Splash in 2008 it became a beacon of hope for the town.”<br />

Crucially, visitor numbers are on the rise, partly due to Morecambe’s success in<br />

capturing the ‘grey pound.’ “Senior citizens have always been an important<br />

demographic for Morecambe,” explains David Jarratt, Senior Lecturer in<br />

Lancashire School of Business and Enterprise. “As the number of people<br />

reaching retirement age grows, we have seen thousands of people over the age<br />

of 65 descending on Morecambe to enjoy its cafes, restaurants, bingo halls and<br />

guesthouses. They have been a constant, reliable and loyal asset to the local<br />

economy over many years. These are often individuals who feel a strong<br />

emotional connection to Morecambe because it holds so many nostalgic<br />

memories for them. Many will have holidayed there with their parents when<br />

they were young children. Now, with much more leisure time on their hands,<br />

they come back again and again to enjoy similar experiences with their own<br />

children, grandchildren and friends.” Coach operators have always brought in<br />

senior day-trippers from across the country, although most repeat visitors come<br />

from the surrounding north-west region. It’s a phenomenon which has saddled<br />

Morecambe with an image problem (the pejorative nickname ‘Costa Geriatrica’<br />

does it no favours) but older tourists are the lifeblood of Morecambe’s<br />

resurgent economy.<br />

So what compels people to keep coming back? In 2016 Jarratt and Gammon,<br />

together with Richard Sharpley, Professor of Tourism and Development, set out<br />

to find answers. They carried out a series of semi-structured interviews with<br />

regular visitors to Morecambe aged between 55-75. It quickly became clear that<br />

Morecambe’s stunning coastline remains its star attraction. Tourists posing for<br />

photographs on the regenerated promenade alongside the smiling sculpture of<br />

Eric Bartholemew (the entertainer whose stage alias, Eric Morecambe, paid<br />

tribute to his origins) are rewarded with spectacular views.<br />

“The panoramic vistas of Morecambe Bay inspire a sense of awe,” explains<br />

Jarratt. “Across the Bay you can admire vast stretches of sand, salt marshes<br />

teeming with life, rich cockle beds and the seemingly endless expanse of the<br />

Irish Sea beyond.” One respondent said it best: “You look across that bay,<br />

particularly on a summer’s evening when the sun’s going down, and it’s over<br />

the bay and there’s such beautiful sunsets and beautiful views that you can’t<br />

help but be moved by it.”<br />

SOUL SEARCHING BY <strong>THE</strong> SEA<br />

That sense of wonder which stirs inside the soul when we are in the presence of<br />

something vast and seemingly infinite has often been likened to a spiritual<br />

encounter, explains Sharpley. “Many of those interviewed expressed a deep<br />

yearning to re-connect with nature or creation. In the coastal landscape of<br />

Morecambe Bay they are encountering something awe-inspiring and thoughtprovoking.<br />

In Western societies people often describe an almost primal longing<br />

to return to the sea. They feel compelled to escape; to detach themselves from<br />

the industrial, urban environments of their everyday grind and flee to another<br />

landscape which in contrast appears natural, timeless and infinite.” Even in our<br />

increasingly secular age, those of us who do not bow down before celestial<br />

gods can still revel in a quasi-spiritual encounter in the presence of something<br />

great and unknowable.<br />

Geologists recognise that coastal environments are perpetual shape-shifters,<br />

their undulating tides carving out their forms over millennia through the<br />

unceasing processes of erosion and weathering. To most observers, though, the<br />

seascape around Morecambe Bay seems ancient, unchanging, vast and eternal.<br />

“This encounter with the seemingly infinite somehow invites us to draw<br />

comparisons with our relatively brief lives and reflect on our mortality as we<br />

measure our existence and importance relative to the whole of creation,” says<br />

Sharpley. “We may also feel a sense of helplessness as the sands of time slip<br />

irretrievably between our fingers.” One elderly interviewee, who has since<br />

passed away, lamented: “When we’re not here they’ll still be…the tide will ebb<br />

and it’ll flow.”

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