ESCAPE MAGAZINE ISSUE 27

Camping on a
Cargo ShipThe Late
Story: Thomas Koteka
Photos: Apai Mataiapo Keu Framhein,
Don Silk & The Late Bob Boyd
beyond the reef. Whilst this perked us up,
we ignored breakfast.
Rarotonga, December 1973, pre
domestic airlines and the Banana
Court was the only place to be
seen on a Friday and Saturday night, the
four of us were fortunate to secure the last
cabin on Silk & Boyds inter island vessel MV
Manuvai for a 5 day round trip cargo run to
Atiu, Mauke and Mangaia. It was to be the
last ship to these islands before Christmas.
With 30 deck passengers under a tarpaulin
stretched over the cargo holds, 4 cabin
passengers, crew and cargo of all sorts,
MV Manuvai sat right on her Plimsoll Line.
A Prayer for a safe passage was offered to
Tangaroa, then she detached her lines and
set course for Atiu.
Our cabin had two sets of bunks, a small
wash basin, standing room only for 3
persons and one porthole which none of us
could open, so it was hot. For the time being
the excitement of the trip preoccupied us
from the smell of diesel fumes, whiff of
stale vomit, the heat, the steady throbbing
of the ships main engine and the constant
motion of the Pacific.
It was 6.30pm when Cook announced Dinner.
A huge pot of boiled mutton flaps and
cabbage accompanied by fresh baked Avarua
bread, tinned butter and hot black tea greeted
us. Cook had forgotten to load sugar and
milk powder but would pick some up on Atiu.
Feeling famished and queasy at the same
time did not stop us from tucking in.
Lucky we had bought with us a plastic bucket,
which we all took turns using on that 1st
long night in our cabin. Me and my fellow
passengers, Simon and the 2 girls were not
very well at all!!!!
Early morning, the 4 of us despairingly
ventured onto the main deck, emptied the
contents of our bucket over the side and then,
we were trounced by the sight and smells of
a beautiful island not more than 150 yards
MV Manuvai was a hive of activity, deck
passengers had packed their gear so
that the tarpaulins could be secured and
hatches opened to unload Atiu cargo.
3 lighters from the shore were already
alongside and with much zeal loaded with
cargo and passengers for the first run
through the narrow passage in the reef. The
Captain said if we wanted to go ashore, get
down to the cargo deck and await further
instructions. These instructions never came
so when the next lighters drew alongside
we just clambered down the ships side
and set ourselves atop the cargo. Nobody
seemed to mind.
Fortunately my Mum had telegraphed my
Auntie Parau on Atiu to look out for us. She
was waiting and immediately put us on the
back of a truck for a tour of Atiu. We even
visited the old Church where my Mum and
Dad got married after they eloped from
Rarotonga. This was followed by lunch at
the Resident Agents verandah in the main
village of Ngatiarua hosted by Auntie Parau
and the family. We were indeed spoilt
for choice - boiled fresh water prawns in
coconut cream, whole fried parrot fish,
rukau, swamp taro, mitiore, eke (octopus),
ika mata, breadfruit, pineapples and
drinking nuts… awesome!!!!.
Afterwards we went for a fresh water swim
in the Anatakitaki caves. The water was cold
which helped battle the heat of the day. We
also visited Aunties plantation where we
were gifted with fresh pineapples, pawpaw,
bananas and Atiu limes - where we were
74 • ESCAPE