FAB L'Style Issue 001 | Iconic
FAB L’Style is an emerging online fashion & lifestyle magazine with an international focus. We are young, perspective, creative and passionate about what we do. Our goal is to create high-quality content and to share it with the world. We believe in everything good and we have no limits. We stand for equality in this industry. Fashion has no boundaries – it comes with all its beautiful differences; in all colours, shapes and sizes. We celebrate life. We celebrate differences. We celebrate beauty without restrictions. We celebrate – you.
FAB L’Style is an emerging online fashion & lifestyle magazine with an international focus.
We are young, perspective, creative and passionate about what we do.
Our goal is to create high-quality content and to share it with the world.
We believe in everything good and we have no limits. We stand for equality in this industry.
Fashion has no boundaries – it comes with all its beautiful differences; in all colours, shapes and sizes.
We celebrate life.
We celebrate differences.
We celebrate beauty without restrictions.
We celebrate – you.
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ICONIC<br />
ISSUE 01 / 2018
Icons - how do we define them? What makes a moment iconic?<br />
Icons are not born, icons are being made, under harder<br />
pressure than diamonds. What comes out as a perfect picture<br />
takes a lot of work behind the scenes. And the one reason what<br />
makes something iconic lies within its beautiful perfection.<br />
With <strong>FAB</strong> L’Style <strong>Issue</strong> 01, we are showing you our icons. From<br />
musicians over designers to artists, every person that you find in<br />
this issue is defined by its very own perfection.<br />
The stories we are telling are not only about the present time, but<br />
also about the path everyone took to get where they are now. These<br />
are stories as intimate and individual as one can imagine. The people<br />
behind these stories are making this magazine possible, they<br />
gave us the stories we are telling and the power that lies within each<br />
of their own work.<br />
This issue goes out to you, may you - at whatever stage you are, become<br />
an icon in your very own way and never forget where you have<br />
come from.<br />
On behalf of the entire <strong>FAB</strong> team,<br />
truthfully yours,<br />
Harriet Hala & Stefan Kokovic<br />
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Photography // Vanja Pandurevic<br />
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CONTENT.<br />
10. MOTHER AFRICA<br />
30. COMPOSITION #10<br />
44. BLUE MONDAY<br />
50. MATEYANEIRA<br />
60. ALAMANDE BELFOR<br />
68. JO WEIL<br />
82. NURIEL MOLCHO<br />
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<strong>FAB</strong> L’Style Iconic <strong>Issue</strong><br />
Harriet Hala // <strong>FAB</strong> L’Style KG<br />
Publisher // <strong>FAB</strong> L’Style KG, Vienna 1010, Austria<br />
Editors in Chief // Harriet Hala & Stefan Kokovic<br />
Creative Director // Stefan Kokovic<br />
Production Assistant // Jon-Eric Hegemann<br />
Editorial Team // Sandra Imiela, Tyra-Stina Wilhelmsson, Ana Vasiljevic, Ana Puga, Matteo Osso<br />
Stefan Kokovic, Jon-Eric Hegemann<br />
Photographers // Barbara Manisch, Stefan Kokovic<br />
HMUA // Melanie Zickl, Wacuka Thimba<br />
Stylists // Lucy Robi, Jon-Eric Hegemann<br />
Copy Editor // Marko Gilmore<br />
Graphic Design // Stefan Kokovic, Jovan Lakic<br />
Printing Office // Copy Planet, 7 Carice Milice, Belgrade 11000, Serbia<br />
Thank you everyone who helped us create this magazine and being part of the <strong>FAB</strong> family<br />
#YouAreFab<br />
For marketing inquiries please contact marketing@fablstyle.com<br />
For advertising inquiries please contact sales@fablstyle.com<br />
For any other inquiries please contact office@fablstyle.com<br />
<strong>FAB</strong> L’Style KG | Stubenbastei 12/14A | 1010 Vienna | office@fablstyle.com<br />
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www.mihanomomosa.com
Photographer // Barbara Manisch<br />
Model // Harriet Hala<br />
Styling // Lucy Robi<br />
Hair & Make-Up // Wacuka Thimba<br />
Assistant // Rose Nginah October<br />
Cape // Patricia Mbela,<br />
Beaded Brass Neckpiece and Bracelet // Enkaya Designs and Agnes Mukuhi Mwanzia<br />
Gown & Mesh Skirt / Nato Design House<br />
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Photography // Danilo Pavlovic<br />
Interview // Stefan Kokovic<br />
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After he received his first award in 1997, everyone knew that the world is yet to hear about Dragan Vurdelja. Very quickly he<br />
became recognized as one of the most successful make-up artists in the region. As a beauty expert, he collaborated with many<br />
different celebrities, worked on many projects, campaigns and manifestations.<br />
But the story of Dragan Vurdelja didn’t end up there. He opened “Dragan Vurdelja Makeup School” in Belgrade and started<br />
working with his sister Cecilija. Cecilija Vurdelja became a “talk of the town” as a perspective makeup-artist and today the<br />
brother-sister duo is a very strong brand.<br />
Dragan and Cecilija talk about their work, family, London, DV Cosmetics and much more.<br />
Both of you have very successful careers and obviously<br />
family is something that you stand for, but when was that<br />
point where you have understood that brother and sister<br />
are also the best business partners?<br />
Cecilija: At first, I have thought that something like that was<br />
impossible. I was torn between my personal life and work.<br />
Eventually, I have changed as a person and as a businesswoman<br />
and my brother also understood how professional I have become.<br />
Today, we trust each other a lot. Working with my brother<br />
has completely changed me – personally and professionally<br />
and today we work together very successfully.<br />
Dragan: For me, it was after coming back from London. With<br />
new ideas and new work-space, our cooperation came very naturally.<br />
I am in this business for more than 20 years and I have<br />
opened the makeup school in 2006. I remember that I have<br />
told Cecilija to finish the course and to learn as much as possible.<br />
She worked really hard and she did it! And not just that,<br />
but she became a hardcore professional.<br />
You have an image of a strong, successful and serious artist<br />
whose name is a brand of its own. Is this a thing you always<br />
wanted to create or is this something that just came<br />
naturally?<br />
Dragan: In the beginning, all I wanted was to be a makeup artist.<br />
After few years, it was clear to me that this is a job like every<br />
other and in order to have a successful business, you have to<br />
have clear goals, ambition and persistence. A lot of things have<br />
come naturally and they still do, but if you want to grow and develop<br />
in any business – whatever comes naturally is sometimes<br />
just not enough.<br />
When people talk about your great work and about the experience<br />
they had with you on certain projects, what is that<br />
one thing you appreciate hearing about yourself?<br />
Cecilija: To me, the most important thing is; when I hear people<br />
talking about how quickly I am growing as a makeup artist<br />
as well as how precise I am, balanced and with my feet on the<br />
ground.<br />
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If you could describe each other in three words<br />
what would you say?<br />
Cecilija: Three words: Dragan. Vurdelja. Brother.<br />
Dragan: Sister. Mother. Queen.<br />
How is working in London different from working in<br />
the Balkan region?<br />
Dragan: The competition is higher but so are the possibilities.<br />
London is the city where trends are created and they are spread<br />
further through the world. London is also the home to some of the<br />
greatest make-up artists of today. For me, being in London feels<br />
like I am constantly at the source of inspiration and creativity.<br />
Cecilija: God, yes!<br />
You have presented your own skincare line. What are your<br />
next ideas and projects when it comes to DV Cosmetics?<br />
Dragan: The DV Skin Care Collection was created in<br />
cooperation with experts from the Aromtea workshop. That<br />
is just the first step of what DV Cosmetics should represent<br />
in the future. I always emphasize how nursing your skin is<br />
essential, so it is logical that my first collection of products<br />
is – skin care.<br />
What was your favourite project to work on by now?<br />
Cecilija: Every project is very meaningful to me, but one of the<br />
most interesting ones were: “Dancing with the Stars” and “Your<br />
Face Sounds Familiar”<br />
You have many students going to your School. What is the<br />
most precious advice you give them when they are entering<br />
the Fashion/Beauty/Makeup industry?<br />
Cecilija: I always tell them to have their own personal “seal”, so<br />
that they could separate themselves from other makeup artists,<br />
to learn, learn and learn as much as possible and to work on their<br />
personal growth.<br />
Dragan: I advise them to take advantage of every opportunity<br />
in life, to educate themselves as much as they can, to travel and<br />
to share their experiences with other colleagues, but to remain<br />
authentic.<br />
How would you describe your personal style?<br />
Dragan: Minimal and I prefer wearing black.<br />
Do you advise your children to go through the same<br />
business-path as you did, or do you completely support their<br />
free will?<br />
Cecilija: Being a single parent of three children is a very difficult<br />
task. Although they are very different from each other, they all<br />
show this artistic side in a way. My task as a mother is to direct<br />
them with bits of advice, but I let them decide what they want to<br />
be when they grow up.<br />
Both of you are also known as an attractive people. Do you<br />
think that this is also very important when building a<br />
personal brand in Fashion Industry?<br />
Dragan: Appearance is more important in the fashion industry<br />
than it is in other industries. I have to say that fashion industry is<br />
often a frustrated bitch, but good looks are NOT the most<br />
important thing in the world at the end of a day.<br />
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SS18<br />
Photographer // Ellen von Unwerth<br />
Models // Sasha Mart, Estelle Enette and Yuniya P.<br />
Hair // Antonio Corral Calero using Moroccan Oil<br />
Makeup // Romero Jennings using Mac Cosmetics<br />
Styling // Nausheen Shah<br />
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Leather Coats with snakeskin prints, a<br />
simple black evening gown topped off<br />
with sequin ruffles and sequin pants, that<br />
hit the exact spot between elegant and<br />
edgy. The New York-based label GEOR-<br />
GINE is known for its lavish pieces that<br />
embody the modern style of New York<br />
like only a few other names in fashion do.<br />
Georgine Ratelband found Georgine in<br />
2014 and debuted with her much acclaimed<br />
first collection at NYFW in 2014.<br />
after graduating the Istituto Europeo di<br />
Design in 2011. Before graduating in Milan,<br />
Ratelband gained the attention of the<br />
Antwerp concept store “Sien”, that purchased<br />
her entire thesis collection.<br />
Taking inspiration from her mother’s<br />
closet, famous hotel dwellers or the vibrant<br />
clash of uptown meets downtown,<br />
her collections deliver both in terms of<br />
design as well as production. Claiming,<br />
that a garment should be as beautiful<br />
from the inside as it is from the outside,<br />
Ratelband is giving us with GEORGINE<br />
another luxury Pret-à-porter label to<br />
love. For their SS18 collection, they got<br />
Ellen von Unwerth to shoot the campaign.<br />
Jon-Eric Hegemann<br />
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www.karlmichael.net
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ASOS BOX<br />
Review<br />
As a self-proclaimed beauty addict, there was something really missing in my life:<br />
monthly beauty boxes.<br />
When it comes to those, unfortunately, Austria doesn’t offer as many options as<br />
the USA or the UK, so the FOMO (read: fear of missing out) was real. Instagram<br />
can be cruel sometimes until ASOS had the brilliant idea of creating their own<br />
monthly box. I got already three of them and the goodies inside were amazing.<br />
Subscription boxes are super interesting ways of trying out new products and<br />
brands, and the value inside is way higher than what you pay, sounds interesting<br />
right? And it is!<br />
Onto the box: it is this gorgeous white box, with the ASOS logo in a trendy holographic<br />
print, very minimal, very ASOS. Inside of the box, different every month,<br />
there’s a curated selection of their hottest and newest brands for us cool kids to<br />
‘Go Play’ as it is said on their slogan. All the possible categories of beauty and<br />
grooming are present: skincare, makeup, body care, etc. and the items are a mix<br />
of full-sized products and minis. Some examples of included products are their<br />
own line of make-up, liquid lipsticks from brands as The Beauty Bakerie and Lime<br />
Crime, make-up brushes, Alpha H Skincare and Pureology Haircare just to name<br />
a few.<br />
To know more about it check the ASOS (www.asos.de) website and their special<br />
Instagram for beauty stuff @asos_faceandbody<br />
@Midnightmerlot<br />
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Photography // Stefan Kokovic<br />
Model // Aila / Stella Models<br />
Hair & Makeup // Melanie Zickl using MAC cosmetics<br />
Styling // Jon-Eric Hegemann<br />
Looks// MILK, Michel Mayer, Karl Michael<br />
Black Cocktail Dress// MILK<br />
Mesh Shirt// Michel Mayer<br />
Black & White Cocktail Dress // Michel Mayer<br />
Golden Half Jacket // Karl Michael<br />
Satin Bomber Jacket // Karl Michael<br />
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MIHANO MOMOSA / BRIDAL 2018
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Photography // Dusan Petrovic, Make up // Mina Abramovic, Hair // Djuka Ivanovic, Model // Nadja Marinkovic, Scenography // Ksenija Josifovic
The unique eye of Mihailo Anusic, designer of Mihano Momosa always knows how to transform classic<br />
beauty into modern day high-end fashion. For the first time, the Serbian design house has released a standalone<br />
Bridal ollection, that embodies the trademark Mihano Momosa style within every single piece of its<br />
Bridal Couture. With love and passion being one of the two main pillars of Mihano Momosa, it was just a<br />
matter of time to see the brand releasing an entire collection dedicated to love and partnership. Always having<br />
his clients in mind, Anusic designed every single dress based on his experiences with his former clients.<br />
The collection includes 14 bridal couture gowns, making every single dress a hommage to sophisticated<br />
beauty and perfect tailoring. For the personal touch, Anusic has included personal messages into his designs<br />
such as Endless, Timeless, Eternity, Hero of my hearth, I belong with you, Serendipity, Forever I<br />
Complete. His trademark use of feathers is seen in both floor-length gowns as well as short dresses. Aside<br />
from feathers, he used tulle, silk and precious lace for his creations.<br />
The Mihano Momosa Bridal 2018 collection is a celebration of romance and the one special day in life<br />
dedicated to eternal love.<br />
Jon-Eric Hegemann<br />
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THE NEW YORKER<br />
PERSPECTIVE<br />
TYRA-STINA WILHELMSSON<br />
@tyrastinamim<br />
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When I was a little girl, my future me and I established a promise. Together we would, as we<br />
called it, do the impossible. I started wearing high heels before I could walk. I started choosing<br />
my own outfits before I could talk. And I started reading magazines before I could actually<br />
read.<br />
Yes, that creepy person has got a name, Tyra-Stina. I’m a (soon) 21-year old small town girl<br />
who grew up in a petit harbour village in southern Sweden. My big interest in fashion, styling<br />
and writing has always been a big fact. After graduating high school I was so hungry on life<br />
I barely couldn’t stand up without scoffing chips. During my first year as a free bird, I tried<br />
everything from working in kindergarten to being a telemarketer and standing behind the register<br />
at H&M. But Sweden didn’t make me hungry enough.<br />
New York has always been a big dream. It all started when I was 7 years old and casually<br />
browsed through a daily newspaper. The main section was about two girls in their twenties<br />
who moved to New York to fulfil their dreams. At the time, it was actually all I could understand<br />
out from the article, but still, it sparked a big interest in me. The second after, I called<br />
my mom. I said ”Mom, I’m going to move to New York someday”.. she gave me the look and<br />
a pleasant smile since I came up with one new big dream every day or even every hour. But for<br />
that certain time, I knew mum was wrong. I cut out the article from the paper and hung it up<br />
on my blush pink wall. The day before I left my little hometown for New York I looked at that<br />
article and whispered a big, fat, thank you.<br />
To me, there has always been a particularly special mystique that surrounds people who live<br />
their dream. Because, if you really put a finger on it, there’s no one else that stopping you from<br />
doing whatever you want, than you.<br />
New York keeps my hungry enough. Here’s always a new line to cross or a higher level to<br />
reach. This city also force you to be honest with yourself – honest about who you are, who you<br />
want to be and why you should have a spot in this world.<br />
What’s your impossible move?<br />
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TREND REPORT<br />
UPTOWN UNDERGROUND<br />
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Grunge is cleaned up by unexpected layers of lace, leather and graphics for a grown-up take<br />
on this traditionally edgier trend,with the mix of high-low styling essential to fulfill the look.<br />
The childhood cartoon or band T-shirt is macro-sized and placed centre front or spliced into a<br />
print with unexpected fIoral prints and lace. Dark boho is taking an Uptown Beat in a new way<br />
searching for the new expression with the sequin and elegant details.<br />
Ana Vasiljevic<br />
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Pullover // Tzuji (Runway Vienna)<br />
Satin Skirt // Karl Michael<br />
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Coat // Tatjana Flatz (Runway Vienna)
Vintage Swimsuit and Coat // Stylist’s Own<br />
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Vintage Swimsuit and Coat // Stylists’s Own
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Photographers // Edvin Kalic, Franjo Matković and Mimi Antolovic<br />
Interview // Stefan Kokovic<br />
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MATEYANEIRA<br />
Mateyaneira became noticed after Sarajevo Film Festival, to where they brought a serious touch of glamour to<br />
the scene. After that moment, their road guided straight ahead as they have become one of the most perspective,<br />
young designers in the Balkan region. Celebrities love to wear their pieces, they work hard on their collections<br />
and they combine minimalistic elements with elegant style. They are against the use of real fur in fashion and they<br />
stand for handmade work. We present you – Mateyaneira.<br />
Both of designers behind the<br />
MATEYANEIRA label have like-minded<br />
taste, but what are the differences between<br />
the two of you? What makes this brand<br />
so unique?<br />
Yes, we have like-minded taste, but we have<br />
different temperaments and energies, which<br />
is good for developing our ideas. Most of the<br />
time, Mateja has an initiative - “You-knowwhat-we-could-make”<br />
and then Neira takes<br />
it to another level by going - “This-is-how-itneeds-to-be-done”<br />
and, sometimes, it is the<br />
other way around. Our synergy makes the final<br />
product.<br />
Who or what are your influences? Where do<br />
you find the inspiration?<br />
We have a lot of men-suits influences and we<br />
are also trying to pull off that a sex appeals to<br />
our clothing, without showing and exposing<br />
too much. Our collections are the result of<br />
everyday inspirations. We could say that our<br />
inspiration comes from our wishes.<br />
Do you design clothes following the needs of<br />
the market or following your own<br />
intuition?<br />
We’re not following “needs of the<br />
market”, but we do have in mind needs of our<br />
environment because we like to say that people<br />
around us are very<br />
characteristic, authentic and we cherish that.<br />
We design things by following our intuition,<br />
but we also respect wishes and needs of our<br />
clients. That is when we make custom designs<br />
and corrections of our own ideas to bring it<br />
more closely to the final consumer.<br />
Do you think that the global fashion scene is<br />
going in the right direction? If so, why?<br />
In our opinion – it would be the best if fashion<br />
would go in this direction, where small<br />
producers respect their workers and pay them<br />
properly. Fair trade should be the direction of<br />
the fashion in the future. As we are part of that<br />
world, we feel responsible and we try to think<br />
global, but act local and to start from ourselves.<br />
The fashion industry is really big and it is very<br />
cruel – sometimes to animals, sometimes to<br />
people, sometimes to our planet, but fashion<br />
is also beautiful and it deserves appreciation,<br />
but we cannot appreciate cheap, unhealthy,<br />
unethical, synthetic sh*t, right? This is why<br />
everything needs to be more respectful and<br />
fair on a global level.<br />
Why minimalism?<br />
That is our current mood, we cannot say that<br />
it will ever fade, but then again, who knows. In<br />
general, we think that there is much more to<br />
see and to recognize in minimalistic approach<br />
than there is in chaos. We’re both very expressive<br />
when we work, walk or talk, so basically<br />
our clothing is something that is giving us<br />
calmness.<br />
“Cut” collection was a big regional success.<br />
Why do you think that is?<br />
Well, first of all – it was something different.<br />
We have given 100% of ourselves to this collection<br />
and people have noticed that. We also<br />
think that it is refreshing to see handmade and<br />
well-made clothes which are based on ready to<br />
wear and look expensive.<br />
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Do you have plans on going to a mass-production<br />
or do you find hand-made products<br />
your thing?<br />
The idea is to stay focused and to keep the<br />
hand-made production “our thing”. We are<br />
building our own market now and it will not<br />
be a mass-production since we try to connect<br />
closely with our clients and to have a<br />
personal approach to each one of them. Yes,<br />
there is a plan to make some smaller series<br />
of our best-sellers for the retails, but that is<br />
it.<br />
We have many favorites from your collections<br />
– Cashmere Coat (Cut Collection),<br />
Long Black Coat (Cut Collection) and<br />
dresses from all of the collections combined.<br />
What are your personal favorites and<br />
is there a story behind every single piece?<br />
There are so many stories behind our<br />
clothes. Our favorite piece is the fake-furcoat.<br />
It was made by a great craftsman who<br />
is totally old school – but he accepts all of<br />
our “weird” requests and ideas. We were<br />
searching for a long time to find a really nice<br />
faux-fur and, finally, our coat was made! After<br />
our fashion show at Ljubljana’s Fashion<br />
Week, many people were criticizing our usage<br />
of the “real” fur. Our goal was to show<br />
how good faux-fur could look like! Obviously<br />
– it was too good!<br />
Do you think that fashion repeats itself and<br />
what are your predictions for the global, upcoming<br />
fashion trends?<br />
Yes, it does. Usually, we don’t follow or predict<br />
this kind of things but let’s say the 90’s<br />
– the beginning of the new millennium. So,<br />
yeah – wish us luck (laughter)!<br />
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Photographer // Franjo Matkovic; Models // Laura Bracun, Dorotea Valentic; Makeup // Dajana Pajkic; Hair // Mijo Majhen<br />
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Photographer // Franjo Matkovic; Model // Laura Bracun; Makeup // Dajana Pajkic; Hair // Mijo Majhen
Photographer // Franjo Matkovic; Model // Laura Bracun; Makeup // Dajana Pajkic; Hair // Mijo Majhen<br />
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S S 1 8<br />
Henrik Vibskov is probably best described as the master in merging fashion and art. Personally, I can never wait to see what<br />
he has come up with for his next collection, let it be the fashion itself, the stage setting, or the theme. Somehow, he manages<br />
to take something incredibly simple and transform it into a concept that seems not to be from this world. For the Henrik<br />
Vibskov SS18 collection, the inspiration was one performer, who fell asleep during the last Henrik Vibskov show.<br />
Jon-Eric Hegemann<br />
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Latest news and collections at henrikvibskovboutique.com<br />
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Photography & Interview<br />
STEFAN KOKOVIC<br />
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His charisma is one of the things that he is known for and he can really teach anyone to fiercely<br />
walk the Fashion Show or pose during a photo-session. Alamande Belfor is an event-planner,<br />
entertainer, dancer and choreographer. He is best known for his professionalism, charismatic<br />
smile, free spirit and stunning good looks. He was a judge on “Austria’s Next Top Model” and<br />
now, he is talking about his life, inspiration, plans and fashion.<br />
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What is the most important thing when organizing an event?<br />
The most important thing is to respect the client’s wishes, but<br />
also adding a personal touch to it. When I am organizing my own<br />
events, I tend to be innovative and different.<br />
What are three things you can’t live without?<br />
I can’t live without – love, joy and diversity, forgiveness.<br />
If you had to pick, which would you choose – fashion or dance?<br />
It is very difficult to choose, but I think dance would always be<br />
something to express my happiness and make others happy,<br />
which inspires me to create fashion. It means that one leads to<br />
another.<br />
How important is fashion in your life?<br />
Fashion has a certain place in my life. It doesn’t change the world,<br />
but it plays a role in how people perceive me and that is very important.<br />
As a matter of fact, it gives me the feeling that I belong<br />
somewhere where I can use my personal taste and create something<br />
new. All of this gives me a certain credibility to stir my little<br />
finger in the coffee of fashion and make it different from others.<br />
Name one piece of clothing that can never be replaced.<br />
It’s the clothing itself that can never be replaced. We live in an<br />
ever-changing world and we will always use something to cover<br />
ourselves, no matter what we use – clothing, leaves, plastic pieces,<br />
wood, stickers, colors or just our own hair (laughs).<br />
What is the greatest obstacle you have had to overcome in<br />
your career?<br />
Once you lose almost everything you have built up in your life,<br />
you realize that with faith in a loving, caring and creative God,<br />
every obstacle, no matter how big it is, can be overcome. At the<br />
end, the only thing that stays is a peace of mind, like the water<br />
after a heavy storm.<br />
“It inspires me when people<br />
tell me that I can’t make it”<br />
At what time do you get up in the morning?<br />
My time to get up in the morning differs to the extent of the project<br />
that I am busy with. I am self-employed and I can say that I am<br />
a morning person. I try to go to bed early. Hence, I wake up early.<br />
When was the last time you went out to a club and do you steal<br />
the dance-floor when you go out?<br />
Going out to a club was never a priority. I learned that there is<br />
a variety of ways to amuse yourself like going to the cinema, a<br />
nice round-talk with friends, visiting a jazz club, going to some<br />
concert or a good restaurant and much more. Sometimes, when<br />
I go out, I like to observe people and the way they move and express<br />
themselves through the art of moving their bodies rather<br />
than showing off.<br />
What is your guilty pleasure?<br />
Sometimes doing nothing at all is my biggest guilty pleasure.<br />
Who or what is your biggest inspiration?<br />
My biggest inspiration is when people tell me that I can’t make it.<br />
Then, all of a sudden, I get the urge to prove them wrong. I also<br />
get my inspiration from my surroundings, nature and people.<br />
If you could close your eyes and be anywhere in the world<br />
when you open them, where would you be?<br />
On the beach, somewhere with a subtropical climate, with pure<br />
and pleasant water temperatures, surrounded by cool, positive<br />
and happy people with whom I would spend time surfing.<br />
You stand for human rights. If you could end three bad things<br />
in this world, what would they be?<br />
I would stop child abuse, I would stop women abuse and I would<br />
stop racism.<br />
What are your plans for the future?<br />
Keeping on doing things that make me happy, cause that is my<br />
way of being successful and to keep on trusting in God.<br />
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TREND REPORT<br />
Palmer Harding<br />
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DISSECTED VOLUME<br />
Beautiful and precise romantic cuts with a<br />
touch of geometry and with a deconstructed<br />
twist provide a contemporary edge. Structured<br />
asymmetric silhouettes and exaggerated<br />
volume are rendered with manipulated<br />
pattern-cutting techniques. Attention to detail<br />
creates androgynous yet refined silhouettes<br />
with a one-of-a-kind sensibility. Structure<br />
and fluidity are fused for a young and<br />
modern approach with a take on utility, work<br />
wear and tomboy looks. Sartorial influences<br />
trickle down to a softness from shoulder to<br />
body, making the trend more wearable.<br />
Ana Vasiljevic<br />
Robert Motherwell - Artwork<br />
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Famous German actor Jo Weil, known for his role of Oliver Sabel in a popular TV<br />
series “Verbotene Liebe” and for being a VIP contestant in a dance-show“Dance,<br />
Dance, Dance”, talks about his dreams, ambitions, favourite clothing pieces and<br />
plans for the future.<br />
Photography // Max Sonnenschein<br />
Interview // Stefan Kokovic<br />
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Describe yourself in three words.<br />
Passionate. Focused. Caring.<br />
What is the thing that pushes you over your<br />
own limits? What inspires you and makes<br />
you do everything you do in life?<br />
I guess it’s the deep passion I’m feeling for<br />
the things I do. I am very lucky that I’m able to<br />
make a living out of something that I love the<br />
most. I’m living exactly the life I dreamed of<br />
when I was a child and I feel very blessed because<br />
of this. If you love what you do you can<br />
achieve whatever you dream of – at least that’s<br />
what I believe in.<br />
Who is hiding behind the handsome outside<br />
of Jo Weil? If you were someone else,<br />
would you be Jo Weil`s best friend?<br />
First of all, thank you for the compliment about<br />
my outside! Well, honestly, I don’t think that<br />
I’m handsome, but that’s another story. I guess<br />
there’s just a random guy hiding inside of me,<br />
though I think there isn’t too much hiding, as<br />
my profession is all about showing every side<br />
and emotion of me as a human being. I’m a<br />
humble person and if I’m not in front of the<br />
cameras, I’m actually a very shy guy. Hard to<br />
say if I’d be Jo Weil’s best friend. Maybe you’d<br />
have to ask my real best friends if they think I’d<br />
get along with myself. I‘ve learned to live with<br />
all of my flaws. If I, as another person, would<br />
be able to accept those flaws, I guess a close<br />
friendship would be possible (laughs).<br />
How important is fashion in your life?<br />
Not as important as people like to think. I like<br />
to wear comfortable clothes and I don’t really<br />
spend much time thinking about my style. As a<br />
matter of fact, every now and then, my job requires<br />
me to wear suits for different events, red<br />
carpet appearances and award shows. But even<br />
then I only wear things which I like, no matter<br />
if they follow the actual trend or not.<br />
We know that shows like “Will & Grace”<br />
had a major influence on culture, as well as<br />
on human and LGBT rights. You also had<br />
experience portraying a gay character on<br />
screen – do you think that television industry<br />
advanced in that manner and what message<br />
would you like to send with your characters<br />
in the future?<br />
When I started to portray the bisexual character<br />
of Olli, I wasn’t aware of the impact that it<br />
would have on the lives of so many people all<br />
over the world. It’s something that just happened.<br />
We should never forget – I’m just an<br />
actor playing characters. All I do is say the<br />
lines which someone else wrote. But still, it’s<br />
nice that my work helped people to be happier<br />
and live better lives.<br />
Name one actor and actress that you would<br />
love to work with.<br />
Claire Foy and Jake Gyllenhaal!<br />
Name three things you would like to have<br />
with you on a deserted island.<br />
A friendly and open-minded monkey (that can<br />
talk and help us find food and water), my hairdryer<br />
and a speedboat that would bring me back<br />
to the cruise ship waiting for me once the deserted<br />
island begins to bore me.<br />
One piece of clothing that can never be replaced?<br />
My blue jeans!<br />
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Is acting something that you always wanted<br />
to do?<br />
Absolutely. Even as a little child there was<br />
nothing else I wanted to be. Don’t know why,<br />
as there are no actors or any other artists in my<br />
family. I always felt deep down that it is my calling,<br />
so I was always convinced that one day I’d<br />
actually become an actor. OK, maybe just for<br />
one day, when I was about 10 years old, I wanted<br />
to be a ringmaster. But as I just said – that<br />
was only a day-long period.<br />
How different is the British film industry<br />
and do you see yourself in it?<br />
It’s different and not so different at the same<br />
time. In the UK they tend to cast me for different<br />
roles than they do in Germany. This<br />
is quite nice because, this way, I get to play a<br />
lot of different characters. Last year I had the<br />
chance to act in two British Feature Films – in<br />
one I even had the lead role. I hope there will<br />
be many more opportunities to work on international<br />
productions as I love to live and work<br />
in London. Keep your fingers crossed for me!<br />
We couldn`t help but notice your great<br />
dancing skills in a show called “Dance<br />
Dance Dance”. Could dancing be your future<br />
call?<br />
That is a clear NO! I never liked dancing until<br />
I was part of “Dance Dance Dance”. As a<br />
contestant on this fantastic show, I realized<br />
that it can be lots of fun, though. And through<br />
endless hours of training and bleeding feet, my<br />
coaches got me to the point where I could perform<br />
some cool choreographies, my favourite<br />
one being “She Bangs” by Ricky Martin. But I<br />
have to be honest with myself – dancing is definitely<br />
not something that I feel comfortable<br />
with (laughs).<br />
What are your plans for the future?<br />
First of all, I hope that everyone I love, and also<br />
myself, stay healthy and happy. Professionally,<br />
there are some cool things for 2018 in the<br />
works – I’m pretty sure you’ll like them.<br />
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IVO BY MARCO OVANDO
What might sound like a model dream as old is time has become<br />
reality for Ivo Buchta. Growing up in the Austrian countryside, he<br />
signed with Stella Models in Vienna in 2011 from where his international<br />
career started. Booked for names like Calvin Klein, Versace<br />
and Phillip Plein, Ivo became a fixed star in the international<br />
fashion business. The New York based fashion photographer Marco<br />
Ovando shot the Austrian model in a series of intimate portraits.<br />
Model // Ivo Buchta<br />
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EVERYDAY FASHION<br />
ESSENTIALS IN 5 STEPS<br />
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Don’t you just hate it when you look at all the celebs and bloggers and they always<br />
look perfect and so stylish, although they’re wearing nothing but jeans and some<br />
knitwear? I know, right? Well, there are some ultimate style tricks that you can implement<br />
in your wardrobe and top up your fashion game.<br />
Keep these rules in mind and it will change your life.<br />
I got you covered and yes, you can thank me later.<br />
Step one – White shirt<br />
Everyone should at least own one. It’s a classic<br />
that will make you look always fashionable.<br />
There are plenty of white shirts out there but<br />
go for an oversized one or one with detailed<br />
buttons so you don’t look like you just stepped<br />
out of the office. Wear it with jeans for a casual<br />
airport look or pair it with vinyl trousers ( so in<br />
right now!!!) and some killer heels for the glam<br />
look<br />
print shoes to bring your outfit to a next level.<br />
When buying a coat, go for something that will<br />
stand out rather than just a plain one. If you are<br />
not so convinced about the pattern, then at least<br />
go for some interesting texture of the fabric. We<br />
tend to wear quite plain and dark clothes in winter,<br />
so statement coat will add a bit of colour to<br />
your wardrobe.<br />
Step two – Sunglasses<br />
There’s something about them that makes you<br />
look 1000 times better. Maybe it’s a fact that<br />
they cover half of your face and they are life savers<br />
on a day after a sleepless night (we all have<br />
been there right?). Go for a classic black Celine<br />
shades to add a bit of Jackie Kennedy vibe. Nice<br />
sunnies can change the outfit completely, so<br />
check which style suits the best your face shape<br />
and wear them on every single occasion (maybe<br />
except in the evening).<br />
Step three – Accessories<br />
The outfit is not completed without them. As<br />
said by the fashion guru Anna Dello Russo<br />
‘Accessories are like vitamins to fashion’ and<br />
we all know you should take your daily 5 a day<br />
seriously. Good statement earrings will work<br />
wonder when worn with a simple black dress.<br />
Think about your statement piece, one thing<br />
that will catch everyone’s attention either it is a<br />
cool printed bag, a hat or some belt with a cool<br />
buckle. They are basically what makes your outfit<br />
stylish and elevates your look.<br />
Step five – Details<br />
They kind of add a cool factor to your look.<br />
Pay attention to details and when choosing a<br />
black rollneck, go for a one with some buttons<br />
on sleeves, or a shirt with some detailed collar,<br />
a skirt with ruffles, something that will stand<br />
out and separate itself from other rollnecks or<br />
shirts. Keep that in mind when going shopping<br />
and you will end up with some nice emerging<br />
pieces that will make every outfit look great.<br />
Step four – Print<br />
There is something about prints that make a<br />
look go from nice to wow! When you wear all<br />
black on a rainy day, add leopard bag or snake<br />
SANDRA IMIELA<br />
@sandyaleimmi<br />
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Ikiré Jones<br />
“Look at God”<br />
SS18<br />
“Though much is taken, much abides; and though<br />
We are not now that strength which in old days<br />
Moved earth and heaven, that which we are, we are.”<br />
~ Alfred Lord Tennyson. “Ulysses”<br />
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Photography // Joshua Kissi<br />
Models // Elanor Grace Bock, Mohamed Ouedraogo, Lawrence Annunziata, Nana Yaa,<br />
Make Up Artist // Alana Wright<br />
Creative Direction & Copy // Walé Oyéjidé<br />
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Not only is Black Panther one of the most successful movies of this year and given actors<br />
with African heritage roles and a platform they have been denied for over centuries, the<br />
movie also brought attention to the masterpieces of African fashion design. More specifically,<br />
the designs of the Nigerian fashion label Ikiré Jones. Ikiré Jones’ latest collection<br />
“Look at God” is inspired by the movie and the different shapes beauty comes in.<br />
Jon-Eric Hegemann<br />
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WHO IS<br />
NOMADE MODERNE?<br />
When I first moved to Vienna, my friends told me about this guy who makes amazing photographs on Instagram. Very quickly I<br />
got into his work and discovered a multi-talented person behind the Nomade Moderne. I say this because it is actually the name<br />
of his brand. This guy makes hats. And even that is not all – he is a photographer and a proud part of the Molcho family. Yes, the<br />
family behind the “NENI” concept – a real gastronomy empire! And no matter what he does or who his parents are, Nuriel Molcho<br />
stays down to earth, humble and sweet. During this interview, he was charming and very approachable. The photoshoot was done<br />
in several minutes and he was more than happy to answer every question I had. Sitting in his workshop next to the “NENI” restaurant<br />
at Naschmarkt (Vienna), sipping warm coffee, the young artist smiled as he waved his mother who was walking by, still focusing<br />
on his answers and sharing his interesting story; dear everyone, Nuriel Molcho talks fashion, family, business and inspiration.<br />
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You have a very interesting family-related<br />
fashion story. Could you tell us more<br />
about that? Were your parents the ones who<br />
taught you how to “breathe” fashion?<br />
I grew up in a family that is very open-minded<br />
when it comes to fashion. My parents taught<br />
me not to dress like everyone else and to always<br />
be myself. Whatever I wanted to wear,<br />
they were fine with and they always told me to<br />
wear my clothes with confidence. People used<br />
to call my father - Samy the Black, because he<br />
used to wear black clothing only. My father<br />
didn`t grew up in money, so black was always<br />
an elegant and “safe” fashion choice. In Israel<br />
nobody dresses in black because it is usually<br />
too hot, but my father always pulled it off. He<br />
wore interesting jewellery and the combination<br />
was always trendy and different. Mother,<br />
on the other hand, is usually oriental-dressed.<br />
She likes bright colours, “hippie” style and<br />
comfortable materials, which makes my style<br />
the combination of the two.<br />
You are an artist. How does art affect your<br />
style? Are these things related at all?<br />
I grew up surrounded by artists. Art is something<br />
aesthetic and it builds the way everything<br />
looks. I personally believe that fashion is a type<br />
of art and expressing yourself. I also appreciate<br />
textures and materials, so I can say that<br />
knowing art plays a big role in my style.<br />
Photography // Nuriel Molcho<br />
Interview // Stefan Kokovic<br />
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Do you spend a lot of money on clothing?<br />
I used to spend a lot of money on clothing<br />
when I was young. I was a “fast buyer”, but that<br />
changed with time. Father taught me to always<br />
choose quality over quantity. Now I don’t shop<br />
a lot, but I shop very smart. I am aware of what<br />
I wear. My fiancé has a huge role in this, since<br />
she takes care of where something was produced<br />
and in what way. I can say that I support<br />
“green fashion”.<br />
You are designing hats. Why is that? Why<br />
are your hats different from anything else<br />
we have seen so far?<br />
I personally like wearing hats and its Jewish<br />
heritage. My opinion is - that you can be good<br />
in something just if you really believe in what<br />
you are doing. My hats are special, unique<br />
and not produced quickly. The price plays an<br />
important role in my work, so - the best price<br />
for the best quality. Making hats was not something<br />
that I have thought I would be doing<br />
and I have learned it myself. Hours of Google,<br />
YouTube and, at the end, I have learned final<br />
touches from several old hat masters. Today,<br />
you can get a fully customized hat in my shop.<br />
Does this mean that wearing a good hat is<br />
sometimes enough to look stylish?<br />
Many clients come to me dressed all “normal”,<br />
but as soon as they put the hat - they feel that<br />
wow effect that I am always going for. They<br />
also trust me and my taste and I really give a lot<br />
of attention to each customer.<br />
Your family is very well-known for their<br />
gastronomy empire. Could you tell us more<br />
about the family business and why is it so<br />
important to you?<br />
The most important thing to us is - family.<br />
We are family, friends, everything. NENI is a<br />
family business - three brothers and a mother.<br />
We never learned how to work in gastronomy,<br />
because it came out of passion. Our recipe for<br />
success is - home cooking and a friendly atmosphere.<br />
First NENI was opened on Naschmarkt,<br />
because there is a special bond between<br />
NENI and markets. My mother learned how to<br />
cook at a market and that is what makes our<br />
restaurants so special!<br />
You have three brothers. Rank them from<br />
best dressed to worst.<br />
Elior doesn’t care about fashion at all, so he<br />
is the worst - sorry bro`. Others care about it<br />
and I have to notice that we are a stylish family.<br />
All of my brothers are very different. Ilan<br />
has a good style, but he goes from very classic<br />
to streetwear - huge variations. Nadiv is an actor<br />
and he dresses like an actor. I guess he is<br />
charming enough (laugh).<br />
If you could be anyone else for a day, who<br />
would you be?<br />
That is a good question. I always loved music. I<br />
don`t know who would I like to be, but singing<br />
on stage is something that I would like to try<br />
for a day. So, I would be a singer.<br />
What are the two things you can`t start your<br />
day without?<br />
My fiancé Audrey and Instagram (but in a<br />
sense that I like getting visual inspiration, not<br />
as an addiction).<br />
What are the plans for the future - yours and<br />
NENI`s?<br />
When it comes to NENI, we are opening in<br />
Paris, Majorca, Amsterdam and Köln. We are<br />
moving into a new supermarket production<br />
and we are expanding in this direction.<br />
As for me - it is something you can`t predict<br />
and it is just being full time updated. I am always<br />
searching for the new inspiration, etc.<br />
Let`s say that one of the plans could be pushing<br />
my brand internationally - fashion weeks<br />
and such.<br />
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The Molcho Family<br />
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MILANO: THE NEW<br />
RENAISSANCE<br />
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Being an Italian fashionista writing on a cutting-edge Austrian<br />
magazine does not give me much of credibility when it<br />
comes to celebrating Milano, the place where I live.<br />
But maybe if drops of my childhood leaked out like in a spy<br />
movie you may get to know that I actually was born as nothing<br />
like a Milanese, raised in a German-speaking little bit of<br />
Italy and that my friends’ names back at the time were more<br />
likely to be Hans and Hubsi rather than Peppino or Gianni.<br />
So I hope the ones that are still reading these lines will trust<br />
me when i say that Milano is in the very middle of a rebirth<br />
process.<br />
But Milano is no place for time wasters and, once stated<br />
that the golden age was gone with the wind the whole town<br />
rolled sleeves up ready to show the ropes!<br />
It was the end of the ’90 when, as a young receptionist, I<br />
first faced the Duomo: grey, old, severe church that supervised<br />
the crumbles of the ’80 knowing there was more to<br />
come.<br />
Step one: cleaning. Like when you wake up after a long party<br />
and you find the place is a mess, you know that’s the first<br />
thing to do. Clean the streets, the building’s facades, public<br />
parks and metro stations.<br />
Then make everything look beautiful. And listen to the people’s<br />
requests. Give them gardens for children and spaces<br />
for dogs, bike lanes and new means of transport. Not only<br />
the world famous via Montenapoleone with its fancy shops!<br />
Find a beauty for each corner of the city: design district<br />
where an old, abandoned rail station was, music and drinks<br />
on the sides of the canal where Leonardo designed the river<br />
locks, new and attractive affordable luxury shops on the way<br />
to the very center, and build the future where crumbles of<br />
the past had been sitting for over fifty years.<br />
There you get a new skyline and a new energy. There you<br />
see young people willing to come and see, spend time and<br />
get to know the place that, from the middle of nowhere, has<br />
made its way in history.<br />
Could fashion system not feel and be part of this? Impossible!<br />
In spite of politics that still consider an industry employing<br />
some hundreds of thousands of people as a moody<br />
toy for few lucky party rats, the fashion industry in Italy never<br />
gave up.<br />
Attention to quality and that magic mix of the sense of beauty<br />
and need for practical cannot be replaced by a low-cost<br />
\ long distance production. Because all ingredients of the<br />
cocktail were already there, we saw within few years the<br />
blooming of new (and old) flowers: Gucci, under the wild<br />
romantic hands of Alessandro Michele, Versace with the<br />
blessing of unforgettable Gianni still inspiring the designs<br />
of Donatella.<br />
So new, fresh voices such as Fausto Puglisi or the rocky,<br />
German-accented creations of Philipp Plein, whose parties<br />
during fashion week have already become a legend.<br />
So you may wonder if this first column was meant to be<br />
some sort of an advertising spot for my city. No, my friends.<br />
It is a way to get to know each other right before we get our<br />
hands dirty in fashion mud, which -for as charming as it may<br />
be- is just a drop of the whole lake. But most of all it is a way<br />
to welcome you into my world as heartfully as I have been<br />
welcomed in yours.<br />
Matteo Osso<br />
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Interview // Ana Vasiljevic<br />
Photography // Delphine Diallo, Nigel Hosang, J.Quazi King<br />
90
Combining elements of sculpture and fashion design and taking it to another<br />
level of art, New York-based artist Joanne Petit-Frere developed her “Tresse-<br />
Agoche” series of hair sculptures with a futuristic vision of womanhood in mind.<br />
Woven and mask-like, the artworks echo the religious rituals and folk art forms<br />
of many different cultures, endowing the wearer of these hair sculptures with<br />
an air of regal power. Captivating and, at the same time, challenging traditional<br />
conceptions of beauty in relation to the female figure, this great artist is giving a<br />
new meaning to the jewelry sculpting and visual art with experimental approach,<br />
giving the freedom of expression a totally new meaning.<br />
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How did you get started in jewelery sculpting?<br />
I had co-founded a collective called Comotroovaysa<br />
with some friends, years ago. Nia<br />
K. Evans, Eric N. Mack & Tomashi Jackson.<br />
We were all collectively producing experimental<br />
jewelry that I designed.<br />
Comotroovaysa - How did you come up<br />
with that?<br />
A rare experience of desire. An accumulation<br />
of materials that dictates its own value. These<br />
rarified jewelry art pieces are made with<br />
everyday industrial produced items repurposed.<br />
One’s understanding of the materials’<br />
prior state only adds to the mystique of these<br />
objects, begging the question: Where did you<br />
find that? To codify such a question, relates<br />
to a kind of energy embedded in the works.<br />
Freedom to use. Make without remorse. And<br />
yet, the pieces speak for themselves.<br />
I started experimenting with jewelry sculpting<br />
while sitting in conversation with Nia K.<br />
Evans. I remember - I had created a palm<br />
ring that consisted of four small miniature<br />
pandas! From there, we knew we were onto<br />
something. Eric & Tomashi were attending the<br />
Cooper Union for the Advancement of Science<br />
and Art while I was attending the Fashion<br />
Institute of Technology and Nia, Columbia<br />
University. We all exercised our specialties to<br />
work on this Jewelry Sculpture project.<br />
How has your Haitian roots influenced<br />
your work?<br />
My series, Redressing the Crown, is a statement<br />
to the colonization of the French on my<br />
Haitian people, a statement to the need of<br />
redressing certain thoughts from both sides,<br />
the Haitians and the French, especially considering<br />
the fact that many ideals are still<br />
warped. Redressing the Crown is a call to the<br />
fact that I as an artist, utilizing hair and tools<br />
of identity to flip these notions of inferiority<br />
of Haitians to the French or West African cultures,<br />
thus showing that Haiti is a unison of<br />
the two; a beautiful braiding of both cultures.<br />
Has Haitian culture influenced your personal<br />
style and if so, in what way?<br />
Absolutely. I grew up wearing hair ribbons,<br />
ruffle socks and even bonnets as a baby.<br />
These are elements I still love to implement<br />
into my personal style. Not exactly ribbons,<br />
per se, but the casual dress-up. I remember<br />
being the only girl in my Pre-K class wearing<br />
hair ribbons. I was embarrassed by them at<br />
the time, for I removed them once I got to<br />
school. I didn’t like the idea of me standing<br />
out like that. Funny enough, at the same time,<br />
I remember having drawn my first fashion figure<br />
made from a heart. I think I had just seen<br />
snippets of Roger the Rabbit on television<br />
and was very inspired by Jessica’s dress. I<br />
wish I had this drawing to this day. But yes,<br />
Haitian culture, as well as American culture,<br />
has influenced my personal style very much,<br />
especially having a French sensibility as well<br />
as they have colonized Haiti in the past before<br />
we gained independence in 1804.<br />
I intend to explore this much more in depth<br />
with photographers and myself as their<br />
muse. This separates my hair sculptures as<br />
their own entity. However, this is all in development<br />
- as well other interests which I plan<br />
to incorporate into my style of delivery.<br />
Tell me something about your collaboration<br />
with Les Nubians. It seemed very exciting.<br />
Both ladies of Les Nubians are lovely. They<br />
were one of the first celebrity clients I have<br />
worked with. They are my French-African sisters.<br />
I need to see them again soon.<br />
What can you tell us about your Tresse<br />
Agoche design project?<br />
Tresse Agoche was a design project that has<br />
helped raise awareness to my work with hair<br />
sculptures. It translates into ‘ Braid Left ‘ -<br />
although the pronunciation is in French, the<br />
spelling is in Haitian Creole to honor my hand<br />
and roots of a once French colonized people.<br />
My main mission with TA was to hypersensitize<br />
the braid, while showing its extensive -<br />
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- architectural capabilities and connecting its<br />
multicultural reference.<br />
One of the things I noticed throughout our<br />
work is your challenging the beauty and<br />
its traditional perception. Do you think it’s<br />
important to question contemporary aspect<br />
of the beauty perception?<br />
I think that is a very big question - what is<br />
beautiful? Contemporarily, it is most important,<br />
as we are in the middle of a collective<br />
societal transformations. A lot has been<br />
changing. More than any other question,<br />
everyone can answer it with the most divergent<br />
answers. However, this is still an askew<br />
perception as to what kind of people exist<br />
in what is deemed beautiful .This particular<br />
sector, I aim to challenge. As I find myself,<br />
freely operating in different ideals of beauty,<br />
I would like to help others free themselves<br />
from this kind of constraint, the constraint of<br />
their image not being deemed beautiful.<br />
As an visual artist, you mix different media<br />
and give hairstyling and fashion totally<br />
new dimensions. Where do you get your<br />
inspiration from?<br />
Thank you for the compliment. I am very<br />
grateful to take part in a time that is very progressive<br />
and that allows for different mediums<br />
to exist through the digital space. My<br />
practice is a bit of a slowing-down of this<br />
progression, if you will. At least, the technological<br />
one. I like to practice art analog style.<br />
From braiding my crafts, to utilizing a 35mm<br />
film camera to incorporating classic film ideology<br />
to help trigger memory in my interactions.<br />
These all inspire my work with hair in<br />
fashion.<br />
Tell us a little bit of your process of creation,<br />
where does it start and how it develops.<br />
It changes, depending on the project. When<br />
I am working alone, however - I love to burn<br />
sandalwood incense and to place two drops<br />
of Rose Absolute essential oil on my wrist before<br />
I begin braiding and constructing my hair<br />
sculptures. It usually starts with my archive<br />
of images, with just me and the hairstyles or<br />
drawings I’m making.<br />
It seems that there is a lot of freedom in<br />
expressing artistic visions, yet original<br />
visual artists like you are very rare. Why<br />
do you think that is?<br />
I believe my experiences have brought me to<br />
this path. I do honor the privileges I’ve been<br />
able to partake, in due to gifts passed down<br />
from my parents as well as what my heart<br />
consists of. The fighter in me is also very<br />
much alive. This combination of collective<br />
experiences and honing in on them with love<br />
and the fight for progression of beauty<br />
What are you working on at the moment?<br />
Recently, I had a conversation with Holly<br />
Black. She was able to articulate my words<br />
the best:<br />
“Her latest enterprise, titled ``Jo Goes West``<br />
is a self-described “metaphor in a multitude<br />
of ways”. It is a movement, an archival approach<br />
inspired by my own inquiry; of the<br />
historical facts in connection to the art of my<br />
practice in utilizing hair and braids. She was<br />
inspired to embark on this project, which explores<br />
the origins of multiple hairstyles, while<br />
on a road trip to California. I started to develop<br />
ideas, reading a lot about Western philosophy,<br />
world literature and learning more<br />
about West Caribbean politics. I re-watched<br />
Fievel Goes West and read Jack Kerouac’s<br />
On the Road – my favorite; Lorraine Hainsberry’s<br />
To Be Young Gifted and Black and I<br />
was stunned by Elizabeth Abott’s first inside<br />
account of Haiti. She is hoping that this research<br />
will become a publication or develop<br />
an even bigger showcase that encompasses<br />
her sculptures and archive material. “My goal<br />
is to engage with those even outside of hair;<br />
shedding light on an artist who is trying to<br />
stay woke and chill, while changing the world<br />
for the alternative better “<br />
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Harri Stojka, a legend in the genre of Jazz is known for his extravagant style and mixing of different styles and<br />
genres. Born in 1957, he is part of Austria’s Roma community and he connects his work to the music, that is part<br />
of his heritage and touches his hart – Gipsy Jazz.<br />
What are you most afraid of?<br />
I am most afraid of sickness.<br />
If you had a chance to go 15 years back in time,<br />
what advice would you give to your younger self?<br />
I would advise myself to stay away from drugs.<br />
Regarding your parents, what are you most thankful<br />
for?<br />
I always admired the way my parents loved life. That is<br />
the thing that they transferred to me - I just love life!<br />
What do you want to be remembered for?<br />
I want to be remembered as a guitarist, because playing<br />
the guitar is the most important thing in my life.<br />
If your father had not gotten you your first guitar,<br />
what other instrument would you play?<br />
Music is not divisible. It is rather an all-encompassing<br />
thing. I always refused not to know other music and I<br />
don`t separate styles - I just hear good music. I am all<br />
for mixing music genres to create something new.<br />
You have performed all over the world. Why do you<br />
always come back to Vienna?<br />
Well, this is my homeland. Here, I have my friends,<br />
my life and all the places where I drink my favourite<br />
coffees (laugh). I can just say - there is no place like<br />
home!<br />
After many years, your father decided to write<br />
about his experiences during the Second World<br />
War and the murder of his family during the reign<br />
of the Third Reich. Are you worried that the world<br />
will forget where xenophobia can lead?<br />
No, because there will always be people who do not<br />
want to forget the greatest crimes in human history,<br />
including me.<br />
I can`t really answer this question since it is beyond<br />
my imagination to play any other instrument (laugh).<br />
What is the one thing you wish for your homeland<br />
Austria?<br />
I wish Austria was a stable democracy, a cosmopolitan<br />
society and I wish that it gains a greater understanding<br />
of multicultural developments.<br />
Where do you get the inspiration for your music?<br />
From my personal impressions, experiences, paintings,<br />
literature and people.<br />
Where does your interest in combining different<br />
styles of music come from?<br />
Interview // Jon-Eric Hegemann<br />
Photography // Stefan Kokovic<br />
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“I WANT TO<br />
BE REMEMBERED<br />
FOR MY MUSIC”<br />
Harri Stojka<br />
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WWW.MICHELMAYER.AT