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EDITOR’s LETTER
ETHOS | THE WATCH GUIDE
EDITOR
Ranvijaysinh Jhala
ranvijaysinh.jhala@ethoswatches.com
ASSOCIATE EDITOR
Aditi Batra
aditi.batra@ethoswatches.com
FEATURES WRITER
Ishani Sirohi
ishani.sirohi@ethoswatches.com
CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER
Pryaag Raj Prem
CONTRIBUTORS
Sumita Bagchi, Mitrajit Bhattacharya,
Sujana Raj Gurung, Devika Mathur
MANAGING DIRECTOR
Yashovardhan Saboo
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER
Pranav Shankar Saboo
HEAD OF MARKETING
Neha Chadha
MANAGEMENT
Sparsh Arun
Juhi Chaturvedi
Manoj Gupta
Gaurav Phogat
Teesta Sandhu
Raja Sekhar
www.ethoswatches.com
Designed and Published by
Maxposure MEdia Group
CEO & Managing Director
Prakash Johari
Director
Vikas Johari
www.maxposuremedia.com
The year in
FINE TIMEKEEPING
There’s always a certain amount of excitement surrounding
the new releases of the things we love. While a tech junkie
always looks forward to the annual Apple event, for a TV
enthusiast, the beginning of the American broadcast season
is thrilling. With watches, it’s not all that different. At the
start of SIHH and Baselworld, aficionados and collectors
wait with bated breath to know what products the industry
greats will unveil. In Basel, no sooner does the fair open
than the chatter begins on what’s gone live on Rolex’s web
pages, such as this year’s new ‘Pepsi’ GMT-Master II, and
Daytona ‘Rainbow’. The two fairs basically define what
watch stores worldwide will look like in the year ahead.
The parallels between brands’ offerings can be quite
baffling—almost as though they’re planned. But more
than innovation and aesthetics, what’s unveiled is actually
a fair indicator of the environment in the industry and
economy. Of late, it’s been all about highlighting the craft of
mechanical watchmaking—the one thing that smartwatches
definitely cannot offer. And this year, that has manifested
particularly in the form of skeleton displays, as showcasing
mechanisms more aggressively seems to be the need of the
hour. The use of varied materials is also strong to such an
extent that ceramic is not even a trend anymore. It’s just an
alternative to metal, as seen in flagships such as Omega’s
new ‘Dark Side Of The Moon’ and, my
favourite, the TAG Heuer Carrera Tête de
Vipère—both of which also feature skeleton
displays. With dark-treated metals, brands
are also going beyond just brushed or
polished metallic parts. Though when it
comes to colour, aside from the occasional
strap variations, they’re generally playing
it safe and sticking to the relatively neutral
blue—as traditional as colours in watches
go. Explore all this in Trend Watch 2018.
A lot of these trends and
advancements in the craft of haute
horlogerie are seen across the biggest
highlights of the year in timekeeping, which
we’ve meticulously curated in Best Of
2018. In no particular order, this list of the
year’s 50 outstanding editions represents
the technical know-how and years of
mechanical watchmaking that the brands
boast of. Every watch manufacturer is
strengthening its positioning—whether you
look at anniversary editions celebrating
milestones and revivals of classics, or
inspirations that make for interesting
stories. Even brands’ spokespersons
consistently speak of playing to their
strengths, as you’ll read in Tête-à-Tête.
The stories behind the brands and
the significance of their inspirations hold
more weight now than they ever have.
Fine timekeeping has never been about
timekeeping alone, and we are here to
tell you all the stories worth telling. As
Ethos celebrates 15 years of bringing fine
watchmaking to India, we at The Watch
Guide take pride in bringing you all these
stories, adding value to what you know of
the biggest names in timekeeping. So sit
back and take it all in, as you flip through
the year in watches. Cheers!
ON THE COVER
(Left to right) Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral; Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph World Time;
and Breitling Navitimer 8 B01 Chronograph 43
Ethos The Watch Guide is published by Ethos Watch Boutiques. It is printed and published on behalf of Ethos Watch Boutiques by Maxposure Media Group India Pvt. Ltd. (MMGIPL).
Ethos The Watch Guide is published once a year. All rights reserved. The writing, artwork and/or photography contained herein may be used or reproduced only with permission in
writing from Ethos The Watch Guide. Ethos Watch Boutiques and MMGIPL do not assume responsibility for loss or damage of unsolicited products, manuscripts, photographs, artwork,
transparencies or other materials. The views expressed in Ethos The Watch Guide are not necessarily those of MMGIPL. **All prices mentioned in this magazine are subject to change.
CIN No U22229DL2006PTC152087

contents
94 The Aviation Advancement:
Breitling Navitimer 1 B01
Chronograph 43
Best of 2018
The 50 outstanding
timepieces of the year
16 A Piece Of Honour: Oris
Carl Brashear Chronograph
Limited Edition
20 Around The World On
A ‘Pepsi’ Scale: Rolex Oyster
Perpetual GMT-Master II
24 Colour Me Bold:
Corum Admiral 45 Squelette
26 The Spirit Of The Ocean:
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M
29 A Mean Machine:
Nomos Autobahn
32 Flight Of The Future:
Breitling Navitimer 8 B01
34 The Two-Way Peripheral:
Carl F. Bucherer Manero
Tourbillon Double Peripheral
36 Formidably Flawless:
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph
Tourbillon ‘Tête De Vipère’
38 The World’s Fastest Indian:
Baume & Mercier Clifton Club Indian
42 The Worldwide Polaris:
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris
Chronograph World Time
44 The Art Of Red Magic:
Hublot Big Bang Unico Red Magic
47 Come To The Dark Side:
Omega Speedmaster ‘Dark
Side Of The Moon’ Apollo 8
50 The Movement Freedom:
Raymond Weil Freelancer
RW1212 Skeleton
52 The Serpenti’s Many Skins:
Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas
54 Timed In The Stars:
Frederique Constant Slimline
Moonphase Stars Manufacture
56 A Tresor Trove:
Omega Trésor
60 A True-Blue Winner:
La Grande Classique De Longines
62 Nature On Your Wrist:
Rado True Thinline Nature
64 It’s Time To Be Brazen:
Tissot PR 100 Sport Chic
66 The Big Small Change:
Panerai Luminor Due 38
69 The Rainbow That Meets
The Pot Of Gold: Rolex Oyster
Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona
72 Sesquicentennial Splendour:
IWC Portofino Hand-Would Moon
Phase Edition ‘150 Years’
74 In Formula One Colours:
Graham Chronofighter
Superlight Carbon
76 Always In The Zone:
Oris Big Crown ProPilot Calibre 114
78 Revisiting The Icons:
Nomos Update
80 In the League Of
Extraordinary Calibres:
Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic
83 Let It Shine:
Raymond Weil Shine Oval
84 Elegance Enmeshed:
Carl F. Bucherer Adamavi
86 Sweet Treats For Slender
Wrists: Nomos Petit Four
88 A Flight Of Fancy:
Corum Golden Bridge Round 39mm
90 The Bejewelled Side:
Ulysse Nardin Classico Jade
91 La Papillon Magnifique:
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31
92 The Formula For Femininity:
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Lady
96 Stripped Down With Ceramic:
Rado HyperChrome Skeleton
98 Diving Deep:
Ulysse Nardin Diver Deep Dive
100 Memories Of The Ocean:
Favre-Leuba Raider Bathy
120 MemoDepth
101 La Dolce Vita Returns:
Corum Romvlvs Annual Calendar
102 Time For Your Life:
Oris Source Of Life
106 The World’s First
Mechanical Smrtwatch: Frederique
Constant Hybrid Manufacture
108 For Motor-Racing Addicts:
Tissot T-Race MotoGP 2018
Automatic Limited Edition
110 Scaling New Heights:
Junghans Max Bill
112 Amp Up The Tango:
Raymond Weil Tango Marshall
113 Vintage Oomph And Glamour:
Graham Chronofighter Vintage Nose Art
114 Riding With The Reverso:
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
Tribute Duoface
117 The Flyback Finesse:
Carl F. Bucherer Manero Flyback
118 Astronomically Single-
Handed: Meistersinger Lunascope
120 The True Calibre:
Grand Seiko Caliber 9S
122 A Master Stroke: Titoni
Master Series Power Reserve
123 The 100-Year Rise: Junghans
Meister Chronoscope Terrassenbau
Tête-à-Tête
In conversation with brand
CEOs, founders and more
132 The Deutsche Distinction:
Judith Borowski, chief branding officer
of Nomos, elaborates on the brand’s
unique watchmaking ideology
133 The Golden Years Of
Breitling: New creative director of
Breitling, Guy Bove talks about bringing
back the brand’s glorious past
140 To The Future Of Tradition:
Jean-Claude Biver, CEO of TAG Heuer
and president of LVMH Group’s watch
division, on the future of smartwatches
and the LVMH Group brands
142 Practically Speaking: The
chairman of Oris, Ulrich Herzog
talks about independent and
practical watchmaking
143 The Art Of Constant
Innovation: Ricardo Guadalupe,
Hublot’s CEO, details the latest
in the brand’s art of fusion
144 At The Core Of Corum:
Corum’s CEO, Jérôme Biard
explains the importance of staying
true to the brand’s DNA
145 The Price Is Right:
President of Raymond Weil,
Olivier Bernheim, on affordable
mechanical timekeeping
146 When Technology Meets
Tradition: Co-founder, co-president,
Frederique Constant, Aletta Stas-
Bax, explains smart functions
in mechanical watchmaking
147 Inspiration Triggered:
Graham founder Eric Loth tells the
story of reviving the name of an English
watchmaker and his pioneering spirit
148 The True Value Of
Time: Founder of Meistersinger,
Manfred Brassler, on the philosophy
of the single-hand watch
Trend Watch 2018
The most prominent
innovations and styles
126 A Bolt Of Blue: Watches
in the hue that reigns supreme
over all other colours this year
134 Dark Dimensions: The aesthetic
appeal and distinctive look of watches
with cases in dark-treated metals
149 The Inside Story:
Timepieces that flaunt their
advanced inner mechanisms
. 12 .

THE
Best
- of -
2018

Best of 2018
A PIECE OF
HONOUR
Inspired by a hero, the Oris Carl Brashear Chronograph Limited Edition is
a watch that symbolises strength, dedication, dependability in the face of
adversity, and above all, honour
By Ranvijaysinh Jhala
The hero of the
Oris Carl Brashear
Chronograph is
its bronze case
` 3,30,000
In the year 2000, we saw Academy Award-winning actor
Cuba Gooding Jr in a film called Men Of Honor. It was a
story of determination, perseverance, and one man’s
courage to fight all odds and emerge a hero. This man was
Carl Maxie Brashear (1931–2006), the first amputee and
African-American master diver of the United States Navy.
A decorated naval officer, Brashear served in the US Navy
for 31 years. Through his years of service, he was subjected
to discrimination, and was denied opportunities, but at
every step, he strived to go beyond limits and was honoured
several times for his achievements. In an unfortunate
accident in 1966, Brashear—who was by then highly trained
in retrieving sunken ammunition and human remains—was
severely injured during a bomb recovery operation that
resulted in him losing his left leg. After his amputation,
following extensive rehabilitation and training, Brashear
was recertified as a diver in 1968. Throughout his struggle,
he was motivated by his own words, “It’s not a sin to get
knocked down; it’s a sin to stay down.” And these are the
very words that have been embossed in steel, on a watch
that pays tribute to this American hero. This timepiece is
the Oris Carl Brashear Chronograph Limited Edition.
THE HERO OF THE WATCH
A ‘sequel’ to a 2016 wristwatch made by
Oris to celebrate Carl M Brashear, the
2018 edition is also crafted in bronze,
like its predecessor, and includes a
chronograph feature. The use of bronze in
both editions was inspired by the diving
equipment that was Brashear’s companion
in his early years as a diver. A motif of the
diving helmet is also seen embossed on the
stainless steel caseback of this timepiece,
where you’ll even notice a unique serial
number for each watch in this 2,000-piece
limited edition. The hero of the watch
though is its bronze case. At a diameter of
43mm, this case is designed based on the
iconic diver’s watch from Oris, the Diver’s
Sixty-Five—a series that also inspires the
Carl Brashear’s rich, ink-blue dial.
THE FACE OF THE BRASHEAR
Deep blue, like the ocean, the face of the
Oris Carl Brashear is symmetrical in its
layout, which is known as the ‘bicompax’.
The balance of the look is enhanced by
the presence of only one chronograph
sub-dial—the 30-minute counter at three
o’clock—in addition to the small seconds at
nine. The hour marker indexes and central
timekeeping hands are gold plated and
filled with SuperLuminova, which ensures
. 16 .

Best of 2018
The highly decorated US
Navy diver Carl Brashear
(left); The caseback of the
Oris watch featuring
his quote (right)
that there is clarity even when you have
to read the time when it’s dark. A domed
sapphire crystal glass with an antireflective
coating adds dimension to the piece,
while the embossed minute markers and
treatment on the bronze unidirectional
rotating bezel add textural splendour.
THE BEAUTY OF BRONZE
With the domed sapphire crystal and
screwed steel caseback, the bronze case is
water resistant to 100m. But what makes
the case particularly interesting is the
bronze that it is made of. Now rose gold in
a watch stays the same over decades, apart
from general wear and tear. However, with
bronze, any two cases, which will be shiny
and bright when they’re new, will not be
the same a few years later. The patination
or ageing of bronze depends significantly
on the humidity and moisture it is exposed
The ageing of bronze depends
significantly on the humidity and
moisture it is exposed to. This
effectively means that the wearers of
the 2,000 watches will each eventually
have a unique timepiece.
to. This effectively means that the wearers of the 2,000
watches will each eventually have a timepiece that looks
quite different than the next person’s.
In whichever way your piece ages, despite how dark it
may get, you can rest assured that the watch will continue to
be sturdy and reliable, just as Carl Brashear himself was. His
stories and struggle continue to inspire many, and the Carl
Brashear Foundation—run by his son, Phillip Brashear—
works towards that. A token of the Foundation comes with
the Carl Brashear Chronograph Limited Edition in the form
of a commemorative medallion. Even though the watch is a
symbol of an inspiring story, as you look at it, all you’ll see
is a gorgeous timepiece; all the while knowing that it is a
piece of honour.
. 18 .

Best of 2018
AROUND THE
WORLD ON A
‘PEPSI’
SCALE
Affectionately and passionately called the ‘Pepsi’ bezel, Rolex’s
red and blue Cerachrom that made its way to a steel GMT-
Master this year had fans buzzing with excitement. However,
that is far from being the only reason why the new Rolex Oyster
Perpetual GMT-Master II is a superior timepiece
By Ranvijaysinh Jhala
Watch manufacturers often flaunt the words ‘Certified
chronometer’, and why shouldn’t they? After all, it represents a
timekeeping accomplishment. For some though, this applies to
everything they do. As is the case with all Rolex watches being
Superlative Chronometers, the latest GMT-Master II joins the
league. Manufactured completely by Rolex, with an all-new calibre
3285, this self-winding mechanical movement gains ground on
precision, the 70-hour power reserve it holds and its resistance to
magnetic fields and shocks. As it incorporates the Rolex-patented
Chronergy escapement, the new 3285 yields superior performance.
What helps its precision is the Parachrom hairspring on the
oscillator, making the watch about 10 times more precise than a
regular hairspring watch.
JUMPING ACROSS TIME ZONES
All the technical advancements in this Rolex update make this
‘tool watch’ an even more efficient timekeeper, and in multiple time
zones at that. The early GMT-Master watches, first introduced in
The latest
GMT-Master II is
powered by an allnew
calibre 3285
Price on request
. 20 .

Best of 2018
This advanced GMT-Master II
retains elements that reinforce the
iconography of Rolex. It’s no surprise
then that any intercontinental traveller
would want to track their zones on
the ‘Pepsi’ scale.
A 1982 GMT-Master II
with the ‘Pepsi’ bezel
The GMT-Master
bezel has been
evolving since 1955
1955, had a synchronised movement for the hours, minutes
and 24-hour reference time zone hand. In 1982, it became
the GMT-Master II, with a new movement allowing the hour
hand to be set separately, hence making for more intuitive
setting. In the modern GMT-Master II, the hour hand can
be adjusted independently through ‘jumping’ moves, using
the crown, which essentially lets you change the time zone
as you travel. The 24-hour GMT hand remains where it
was, hence becoming the ‘home time’ or a secondary time.
Assuming the bezel is at the ‘neutral’ position—with the
arrow marker at 12 o’clock—for the reference time, you can
then turn the bezel, both ways, to know the time in other
zones as well. You only need to know the number of hours
in the time difference and move the bezel those many places
clockwise or counter. With the 24-hour scale representing
the 24 time zones, this bidirectional rotation effectively
allows you to travel the world on the ‘Pepsi’ scale!
THE ‘PEPSI’ BEZEL
The bezel moves on a rotating system with a spring, which
allows it to be turned in swift and sharp movements, with
a positive click, as it lands on each of the 24 different hour
positions. This is part of the evolution of the GMT-Master
bezel since 1955. It was in red and blue even then—originally
intended for red to represent daytime and blue, night time—
however, at the time, it was made from Plexiglas, painted on
the underside. Over the years, different colours were used,
sometimes even singularly. In 1959, aluminium was used,
with anodised colours and markings. The
modern Cerachrom bezel was introduced
with the 2005 GMT-Master II. Made from
a sturdy ceramic that is corrosion-resistant,
‘virtually impervious to scratches’, and
whose colour will remain unaffected by
ultraviolet light. The numerals and other
markings are usually moulded in ceramic
and then coated with metal using the PVD
(physical vapour deposition) process.
AN ICON’S EVOLUTION
The last time we saw the ‘Pepsi’ bezel on
a GMT-Master II was the white gold 2014
edition. This year, for the first time, this
bezel comes in an Oystersteel version as
well as the five-link Jubilee bracelet. First
introduced in 1945 with the Rolex Oyster
Perpetual Datejust, the Oystersteel Jubilee
bracelet on this GMT-Master II features
Rolex’s Oysterlock folding clasp and the
Easylink 5mm comfort extension link.
A Rolex staple, seen across all Oyster
Perpetual watches, the Oyster case saw a
subtle update this year in the streamlined
redesign of the case sides and the lugs. In
the 40mm case is the dial in black lacquer,
built with blue luminescence, featuring
applied Rolex hour markers, and a date
window at three o’clock, with the signature
Rolex Cyclops lens.
This advanced GMT-Master II retains
elements that reinforce the iconography
of Rolex. It’s no surprise then that any
intercontinental traveller would want to
track their zones on the ‘Pepsi’ scale.
. 22 .

Best of 2018
COLOUR ME
bold
Endowed with a playful design and an infusion
of colour in its skeleton display and open-worked
date disc, the new Admiral 45 Squelette—a
flagship among Corum’s 2018 novelties—
strengthens the brand’s artistic fibre
By Sumita Bagchi
SEVEN SHADES OF CORUM
Embodying Corum’s exceptional skills
and know-how of maritime watchmaking,
the all-new Admiral 45 Squelette marries
nautical design with modern watchmaking
mechanics in a daring, new avatar. This
collection of seven timepieces, in a limited
edition of 288 units—including three models
with cases in natural titanium, and four
others in matte black PVD—makes a bold
fashion-forward statement with the stark
contrast of colours and polished industrial
design. For true lovers of horology, the
collection delivers on horological standards,
with the iconic Admiral’s dodecagonal bezel
and nautical pennants.
In a modern twist, they frame an eyecatching
skeleton dial, available in popping
shades of yellow, red or turquoise blue, and
matched with a case in either titanium or
black. As with all skeletonised dials, these
timepieces also offer a glimpse into the
precision watchmaking workings, which
are a treat to the human eye. Showcased in
full view, the automatic in-house movement
designed by Corum and made by EMC—its
own production entity—is the prestigious
calibre CO 082, which offers a 42-hour
power reserve.
In sync with its
nautical-inspired
aesthetic, the
skeleton dial is
a modern twist
The new Admiral
45 Squelette in PVD
titanium (left) and natural
titanium (far right)
Starts at ` 7,28,000
With creativity and boldness as its guiding principles, the
Admiral 45 Squelette unabashedly turns the conventional
traditions of nautical watches on its head by opening up a world
of personalisation, open-worked skeleton dials and some vibrant
pops of colour for the dapper men of today. Corum continues
to steer the watchmaking world since its inception in 1960, and
with its avant-garde and innovative Admiral line, the watchmaker
conveys excitement and passion through its extensively varied
nautical watches. Successfully sailing the oceans for 50 years, the
Corum Admiral watch has achieved iconic status among all sailing
enthusiasts and other sports lovers.
UP, CLOSE AND PERSONAL
In sync with its nautical-inspired aesthetic,
the skeleton dial features open-worked
bridges, coated with an anthracite grey
surface that provides two contrasts. The first
is with the movement’s nickel silver gear
trains and the second is with the dominant
colours of the Admiral 45 Squelette’s
different models distributed on the seconds
hand, the case, the bracelet and the date.
To make things more exciting and to keep
up with the fashion choices of watch lovers,
Corum now allows you to customise your
watch with combinations of these fun colours and the
possibility of adding coloured rubber straps for that added
edge in your watch wardrobe.
Yet another feature that stands out on the bare dial is
the large date, the numerals of which are neither painted
nor engraved on the sapphire discs. Instead, they are
individually blanked via precise electronic machining.
Emboldened with a slew of eye-popping colours, the thin
and sleek numerals add to the aerial architecture of the
Admiral 45. With an aperture in a solid-coloured bottom
at six o’clock that further offers contrast with the date, the
overall technical design marvel renders an unobstructed
view of the in-house calibre visible on the lower bridge.
With dauphine hour and minute hands, which make
their way around the 12 pennants, a 45mm case and a
vulcanised rubber bracelet, the watch is the only sportychic
addition you need to further your nautical aspirations.
. 24 .

Best of 2018
THE SPIRIT OF the
OCEAN
From the 1990s till date, the Omega Seamaster has captured
hearts as it conquers the oceans, while also occasionally gracing
the wrist of James Bond. Take a look at the 25th anniversary
edition—the Seamaster Diver 300M
By Sujana Raj Gurung
Since it was first introduced in 1993, the Seamaster Diver 300M
has been a favourite among many watch lovers, newcomers and
veterans alike. It is also the one collection that brought to life the
brand’s longstanding partnership with our favourite spy—James
Bond. Hence, it’s a no-brainer why the collection has reached far
and wide with its popularity, influence and sheer aura. This year,
Omega celebrated 25 years of the flagship Seamaster collection by
unveiling the Seamaster Professional Diver 300M in a wide range
of variations—14 to be precise. Featuring a unique blend of new
materials, updated sizes and a modern movement, the Omega
Seamaster Diver 300M was quite a record-setter at Baselworld 2018.
The Seamaster
Diver 300M has
been a favourite
among watch lovers
Price on request
WAVES OF CHANGE
Aesthetically, the Seamaster 300M is the same timepiece that you
have loved and known since it was first featured on Pierce Brosnan’s
wrist in the movie GoldenEye (1995). Having said that, it also
inculcates some major updates that cannot be ignored. The 2018
version features a unique blend of stunning colours, which makes
this new edition difficult not to like. It features a ceramic bezel with
the diving scale in Ceragold or white enamel—depending on the
variation—which ensures a longer-lasting whiteness and durability.
One can also notice the return of the signature wave pattern on the
dial that has been laser engraved this time, taking the watch to a
whole new level.
. 26 .

Best of 2018
The beautifully designed dial is available
in black, blue and a PVD-treated chrome
colour. This works well against the raised
indexes filled with SuperLuminova
and subtly reshaped skeleton hands. A
welcome change is the position of the date
window that has moved from three to six
o’clock. Now sized at 42mm—slightly larger
than its 41mm predecessor—with a water
resistance of 300m, the collection offers six
models in steel while the remaining eight
are available in two-tone—steel and gold—
versions. An exciting update is the new
patented cone-shaped helium escapement
valve at 10 o’clock, which allows the wearer
to operate it underwater with more ease.
WHAT LIES BENEATH
Beating inside is the brand’s in-house
manufactured calibre 8800—a METASapproved
Master Chronometer movement.
A certification by METAS (the Swiss
Federal Institute of Metrology) is achieved
after a watch that houses a COSC-certified
chronometer movement undergoes
rigorous real-life scenarios to test its
performance. This assures accuracy under
various extreme circumstances with high
resistance against magnetic fields (up
to 15,000 gauss). Only after the watch
has passed these tests can it be called a
‘Master Chronometer’. This piece clocks
in a power reserve of 55 hours, without
having to be worn, for the bidirectional
self-winding rotor to do its work. The
view at the back comprises a domed seethrough
sapphire crystal inset that allows
the wearer to see the movement in motion
along with a wave-patterned edge for that
extra something!
A SPLASHING NEW EDITION
Among the 14 new models of the new Seamaster Diver
300M, each model is available with an integrated black or
blue rubber strap with a fold-over extendable dive clasp,
apart from the customary yet modernised stainless steel
bracelet. A special mention goes out to the limited edition
Seamaster Diver 300M Titanium Tantalum—a standout
timepiece that is limited to just 2,500 units worldwide. Its use
of tantalum—a rare, corrosion resistant, blue-grey metal—
combined with grade-two titanium and 18-carat Sedna
gold, is revolutionary as well as breath-taking. While the
tantalum is specifically used only for the base of the bezel
and the middle links of the bracelet, the subtle contrast it
offers against the brushed titanium and Sedna gold, seen in
the rest of the watch, creates pure magic.
The silver jubilee generation of the Seamaster retains
the essence of the highly distinctive collection while
presenting loyalists something new. Whether you’re in the
sea or far from it, with this watch, the spirit of the ocean will
always be around you.
The beautiful dial
is available in black,
blue and a PVDtreated
chrome colour
A MEAN
MACHINE
With bold curves culminating in an idiosyncratically minimal
design, German watchmaker Nomos Glashütte’s Autobahn
is treading its own path of success at lightning speed
By Aditi Batra
. 28 .

Best of 2018
has ruffled quite a few feathers in the watch world since its
inception, for all the right reasons. Nomos Glashütte was
founded by Roland Schwertner, an entrepreneur of varied
interests and businesses. The brand made an entry into the
luxury segment of watches, two months after the fall of the
Berlin Wall in 1990. Schwertner was keen on an opportunity
to build a German watch brand and hence acquired a
German watchmaking establishment from the early 1900s,
called Nomos, meaning ‘law’ in Greek.
The Autobahn
Neomatik embodies
idiosyncrasy and
minimalist design
` 3,99,900
Nomos Glashütte is among the few non-
Swiss watch manufacturers that give
Swiss watchmaking stiff competition.
The German brand, based in Glashütte—
arguably the German capital of
watchmaking—is known for its avantgarde
designs that still have a classical
charm, and hence appeal to a wide range
of aesthetic tastes. At the same time, the
watches they produce aren’t lacking on the
technical front either. With accurate and
reliable manufacture movements, their
watches include components made inhouse,
such as the escapement, which even
most Swiss watch brands outsource.
Nestled in the picturesque Free State
of Saxony in Germany, Glashütte is home
to the state-of-the-art Nomos factory.
A German watch brand that would be
considered a newcomer, compared with
myriad watch brands that have celebrated
a century or more in the business, Nomos
PICKING UP SPEED
Nomos began their journey in a rented flat with just four
watchmakers. Today, Nomos employs 300, of which the
design team work from their Berlin offices. Their first four
models were developed within four years after extensive
research, but their biggest breakthrough came in 2005 when
Nomos developed their first in-house calibre. Currently, they
have about 10 in-house calibres powering all their watches.
In fact, the brand has even pulled off the unthinkable,
something that no other watchmaker has managed to do.
All their in-house movements are built from scratch by
Nomos without a single part being outsourced. The Nomos
Glashütte escapement technology, called the Nomos Swing
System was made in 2014, in cooperation with Technische
Universität Dresden. The system took almost seven years
of research and over €12 million in investment; the result
of which was a path-breaking innovation never attempted
before by an independent watchmaker. Today, all the
brand’s movements are equipped with the Nomos Swing
System that is tested rigorously and promises accuracy to
chronometer levels on every watch.
With the Swing System, Nomos was among the first
to break away from Swiss monopoly, gaining complete
In collaboration with German designer
Werner Aisslinger, this relatively young
brand unveiled the Autobahn collection,
named after the German highway system
that is devoid of a mandated speed limit.
The three variants
are sports grey,
midnight blue,
and white with
silver-plating
technological independence from any
Swiss supplier of essential parts. It’s a feat
no other watchmaker in the world has
achieved so far.
RACING AHEAD OF THE PACK
Embodying idiosyncrasy and minimalist
design, Nomos launched the Autobahn
Neomatik 41 Date at Baselworld 2018.
In collaboration with German designer
Werner Aisslinger, this relatively young
brand unveiled the Autobahn collection,
named after the German highway system
that is devoid of a mandated speed limit.
Available in three dial colours—white with
silver-plating, sports grey, and midnight
blue—this watch is hugely inspired by
racetracks and automotive analogue dash
counters, as is indicated by the curved
rehaut in the centre of the watch.
Retaining their emblematic
aesthetics while introducing a sense
of motion and bold curves, this
collection is equipped with a new
in-house built date calibre DUW 6101. The movement
allows you to adjust the date both clockwise and counterclockwise,
on its three-lane date window, reminiscent of an
odometer. The 41mm robust stainless steel case houses a
well-proportioned dial with a recessed small seconds subdial
at six o’clock. Another discernible driving-related
element on the dial is a large ring from eight o’clock to four
o’clock that neatly symbolises a speedometer. The luminous
ring of large SuperLuminova fields on its dial is another racy
feature of this dramatic collection. All Autobahn timepieces
have a textile strap with a stainless steel pin buckle.
This sporty automatic model has already bagged the
Red Dot Design Award 2018, which recognises global
excellence and innovative products with outstanding
form, function, aesthetics and quality. With accolades
and attention pouring in from every corner of the
world, the Nomos Autobahn can be declared as a one-of-akind
novelty.
. 30 .

Best of 2018
Aviation watches represent mankind’s power of invention
and passion, and one of the brands to introduce that idea
into the watch world is none other than the ‘official supplier
to the world of aviation by chance’, Breitling. With their
phenomenal success in the domain of aviation watchmaking,
the brand has carved a niche for itself and is much ahead
of the pack for ‘on-board chronographs intended for aircraft
cockpits’. Gaining immense popularity during World War II,
Breitling’s accomplishments and know-how of chronograph
watch construction set them apart.
THE GENESIS OF THE NAVITIMER 8
The Navitimer 8 collection concisely presents all that
Breitling stands for, aesthetically and functionally. The
contemporary watch has distinct design codes with
historical elements as cues. The moniker ‘8’ is a reference to
the collection’s inspiration—the Huit Aviation Department,
which was established by Willy Breitling during WWII to
make onboard chronographs, offering an eight-day power
reserve. The Navitimer 8 is the new guy in town, with
similarities to the Navitimer 1—the iconic model with a slide
rule—but with added functionality and a cleaner display.
The new Navitimer 8 is
available with an alligator
leather strap (far left) and
stainless steel options
Starts at ` 3,94,490
FLIGHT OF THE
FUTURE
The Breitling Navitimer 8 B01 is a nod to early aviation timekeepers with
substance. Armed with an in-house manufactured movement, it exudes the true
Breitling DNA and is a large step towards the brand’s future
By Ishani Sirohi
A NEW LEADERSHIP, A NEW STYLE
Breitling entered into 2018 with renewed drive, invigorated
by the force behind the brand’s new leadership under
CEO, Georges Kern, who was formerly with the Richemont
Group, where he served as the CEO of IWC. The first
glimpse of the change is the Breitling Navitimer 8, wherein
the new Breitling logo marks its presence with a stylised ‘B’,
sans the trademark wings. This speaks to the fact that even
as Breitling will always be synonymous with aviation, that
alone will not be the brand’s identity.
“The Navitimer 8 really is more like a prequel to the
Navitimer 1, with strong references to the designs of the
aviation watches from 1930 to 1970,” informs Guy Bove, the
new creative director of Breitling. As soon as the launch
of the Navitimer 8 B01 was announced, brand loyalists
rejoiced, as the watch had all the genes of early aviation
watches, minus the slide rule. Several watch connoisseurs
were earlier reluctant towards the Navitimer as the slide rule
seemed primitive and Breitling’s decision to do away with
the vestigial feature came as a welcome change.
WHAT’S ON BOARD
The chronograph is impactful with a 43mm stainless steel
case along with sporty appeal in the well-polished, shorter
lugs and the coin-edged bezel that offers a great grip. The
watch has the popular ‘inverse panda’ dial design and
mushroom pushers that are stark in contrast to the black
dial. The chronograph counters in white
feature an old-school railroad design and
an angular date window between four and
five o’clock. The dynamic look is enhanced
courtesy the faceted hands with an ample
amount of SuperLuminova. From the font,
right down to the minutest details, the watch
is strongly reminiscent of the on-board
clocks manufactured by Breitling back
in the day.
The Navitimer 8 is powered by the inhouse
Breitling calibre B01. The modern
B01 movement provides a mighty power
reserve of 70 hours and is chronometercertified
by the COSC (Contrôle Officiel
Suisse des Chronomètres). The welldefined
movement is visible through the
sapphire crystal caseback, water resistant
to 100m—greater than the depth of water
resistance that other Breitling watches offer.
While the new Navitimer 8 draws
inspiration from the past while reflecting
contemporary design, there’s a lot more
to look forward to from the brand. The
Navitimer 8 is a part of an evolution that
will reinforce the brand’s strengths and
true identity.
. 32 .

Best of 2018
THE TWO-WAY
PERIPHERAL
With the new Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral—featuring
the brand’s signature peripheral winding rotor and an unhindered view of the
tourbillon regulator—the Manero watch tribe goes to the next level
By Mitrajit Bhattacharya
The new Manero
Tourbillon Double
Peripheral is infused
with Bucherer’s
technical brilliance
Price on request
Since 2008, Carl F. Bucherer has gained
prominence for its pioneering work in
pushing the peripheral rotor to the forefront
of Swiss watchmaking. This year, they’ve
pushed the boundaries further with the
launch of the Manero Tourbillon Double
Peripheral. Fitted with a unique in-house
movement CFB T3000, the watch combines
a peripheral self-winding system and a
peripherally mounted floating tourbillon—
a world first, for sure.
THE ALLURE OF A TOURBILLON
Housed in a rotating cage, a tourbillon
(French for ‘whirlwind’) is considered the
holy grail of fine watchmaking with only a
handful of watchmakers having mastered
it. It is the watchmaker’s expertise in the
peripheral automatic winding system that
has led to the development of the second
major complication in the timepiece—
the floating tourbillon. The watch also
boasts of the stop-seconds function of the
tourbillon and a COSC certification for
superior chronometry.
Invented more than two centuries
ago, the tourbillon was developed to
solve the technical problem of gravity
impacting the accuracy of pocket watches,
which gentlemen from that era used to
keep in a static position in their waistcoat
pockets. The Earth’s single-directional
gravitational pull on the vertically rotating
balance wheel led to errors in timekeeping.
The tourbillon kept the entire oscillation
system rotating uniformly around its own
axis, nullifying the gravitational pull.
THE ADVANCEMENTS
A regular tourbillon is usually mounted
with a ruby on the main plate and another in
the balance-wheel bridge, helping it rotate
around its own axis. A flying tourbillon
requires mounting on the main plate
With the peripherally-mounted tourbillon
as the centre of attraction at 12 o’clock, the
tourbillon cage rotates around its own axis
once every minute, featuring a hand that
acts as the running-seconds display.
only—a significant advancement—that allows you to admire
its beauty from the top. Now with this new construction of
the CFB T3000 movement, Carl F. Bucherer has gone a step
further by offering a clear view of the tourbillon regulator
from both, top and bottom. Supported peripherally by three
ceramic ball bearings—which also act as shock absorbers—
the tourbillon cage appears like a floating tourbillon,
while the construction allows for a smooth running of the
tourbillon cage. The brand has a patent pending for this
tourbillon with a peripherally-mounted rotating carriage.
Carl F. Bucherer uses the advanced quality antimagnetic
material silicium for the pallet and escape wheel
of the escapement. The use of silicium has numerous
advantages: it requires low lubrication due to low friction,
allows a longer power reserve of 65 hours, and cannot be
negatively impacted by magnetic fields. This construction
ensures a high level of accuracy and meets the chronometry
requirements for COSC certification. Another key feature
of this watch is the stop-seconds function, which helps to
synchronise the watch with a standard time.
THE AESTHETIC APPEAL
With the unique tourbillon as the centre of attraction at
12 o’clock, the tourbillon cage rotates around its own
axis once every minute, featuring a hand that acts as the
running-seconds display. The 43.1mm case, in 18-carat
rose gold, provides a harmonious and elegant setting for
this new movement, with its classic round shape and slight
protuberance at the crown. A convex silver-coloured dial
adds volume in the display with applied gold-plated wedgeshaped
indices and faceted gold-plated lancet-shaped
hands. The sapphire crystal has antireflective coating on
both sides. The hand-stitched brown alligator leather strap
completes the look. The watch also features the traditional
Swiss Geneva stripes on the movement’s bridge, which can
be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback—a clear
view owing to the peripheral rotor.
Carl F. Bucherer strikes a double whammy with the
new Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral. Crafted with
the aesthetics of the Manero collection and infused with
Bucherer’s technical brilliance, this watch is an aspirational
novelty for watch enthusiasts worldwide.
. 34 .

Best of 2018
FORMIDABLY
FLAWLESS
The enviable TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon
‘Tête De Vipère’ flaunts a sporty and contemporary ceramic
case design and a movement that is certifiably the epitome of
timekeeping accuracy
By Sumita Bagchi
The ‘Tête De Vipère’
was unveiled to
celebrate the 55th
anniversary of the
iconic motor-racinginspired
Heuer Carrera
` 14,52,700
Not one to crack under pressure, TAG
Heuer has mastered the art of winning
at the races, both on and off the track,
with high-performance timepieces that
scream unmistakable style and cuttingedge
technology. The watchmaker’s
2018 timepieces are a living testimony
of its advanced technology and
manufacturing expertise.
A MARK OF EXCLUSIVITY
A classic case of setting futuristic records
and serving rarity for watch aficionados
is the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph
Tourbillon ‘Tête De Vipère’ (viper’s head).
A commemorative timepiece, the ‘Tête De
Vipère’ was unveiled to celebrate the 55th
anniversary of the iconic motor-racinginspired
Heuer Carrera and bears an
exclusive new chronometric certification
that has only been awarded to a handful
of esteemed pieces—just 500 in number.
Limited to just 155 pieces, this timepiece
comes with an exceedingly rare ‘Tête
de Vipère’ certification, which had been
discontinued in the 1970s but reinstated
in 2006 by the observatory at Besançon
in France.
This certification is a more extensive
certification for chronometers than the
Swiss COSC. The Besançon Observatory,
operating on behalf of the International
Bureau of Weights and Measures, is the
only independent, public organisation that
can inspect chronometers. What sets it apart
from the COSC chronometer certification
is that it tests fully assembled watches, and
not only their movements, which accredits
supreme quality, accuracy, and technical
expertise that borders on perfection.
CRAFTED FOR COMPLICATION
Housing two of traditional watchmaking’s
most famous complications—a tourbillon
and a chronograph—the contemporary
design ingenuity of this watch is a nod
to the advancements in watchmaking.
To complement this legendary hallmark of excellence that
can be seen in the form of a stamp on the watch’s bridge,
the timepiece is a striking case of style meets substance.
A seamless rendition of blue meets grey, the 45mm blue
ceramic case is a mix of polished, brushed and bead-blasted
finishes. Water resistant to 100m, the case is fitted with a
ceramic bezel, lugs and a see-through caseback. The crown
and chronograph push-buttons, as well as the caseback,
feature a black PVD coating, which perfectly complements
the blue ceramic.
THE FACE OF ADVANCED ACCURACY
The black skeletonised dial of the TAG Heuer Carrera ‘Tête
de Vipère’ Chronograph Tourbillon chronometer shows off
a very geometric and composed set of bridges. At pride of
place, near six o’clock, is the exposed blue tourbillon, secured
with blue bridges to increase visibility, while at three and nine
o’clock are the rhodium-plated sub-dials for the 30-minute
chronograph counter, and small seconds respectively.
Likewise, the hour indexes and hands are rhodium-plated,
with SuperLuminova to increase night-time legibility. The
matte black alligator strap is sewn onto black rubber for extra
comfort, and enhanced by its midnight blue stitching, which
brings it all together. Powering this remarkable Carrera
chronometer is the in-house Heuer-02T calibre movement.
Made for connoisseurs of high-complication timepieces
and those who take pride in owning something that is
certifiably advanced and accurate, the ‘Tête de Vipère’
is also simply a watch that looks extremely impressive
and sophisticated.
. 36 .

Best of 2018
THE WORLD’S
fastest
indian
Celebrating the legendary heritage of Indian
Motorcycle, Baume & Mercier’s latest
Clifton Club limited edition chronographs
exemplify the association between fine
watchmaking and motor vehicles
By Ishani Sirohi
When two pioneers in their bailiwicks forge a partnership, one can
rest assured that it will only yield epic results. Baume & Mercier has
been riding high on the raging success of their 2017 highlight—the
Baume & Mercier Clifton Club Shelby Cobra Daytona. Emulating
an equally great partnership, the brand has joined hands with the
pride of America, Indian Motorcycle—the premium motorcycle
manufacturers that boast of a century-old legacy.
The Swiss watch brand reckons to scale greater heights as it
launches an armada of three watches that capture the spirit of
Indian Motorcycle and ignite passion in watch connoisseurs who
are also motorsport enthusiasts. “These three exceptional limited
edition timepieces, imbued with Indian’s spirit, translate the idea
of freedom, adventure, tenacity and visionary thinking,” says Alain
Zimmermann, CEO of Baume & Mercier. Sharing this credo for
quality and precision, these chronographs harbour a rich legacy.
The Baume & Mercier
Clifton Club comprises
three exceptional limited
edition timepieces that
capture the spirit of
Indian Motorcycle
` 2,86,000
. 38 .

Best of 2018
A DEVOTEE OF ‘THE GOD OF SPEED’
The flagship piece and the first to be launched among the trilogy honours
one of the most famed motorcyclists of all time, Burt Munro. He was
known as ‘The world’s fastest Indian’, which was also the name of the 2005
movie, starring Sir Anthony Hopkins as Munro.
The watch is limited to 1,967 pieces, and the number is not a stroke
of serendipity, rather a figure that coincides with the year 1967, when
the racing legend had blazed on land, breaking the under-1,000cc land
speed record at the Bonneville Salt Flats. The new watch with a 44mm
stainless steel case celebrates intricate hand workmanship, which defines
both Burt and the Clifton Club watch. The dial includes references to the
racer and his machine, such as his lucky number 35, embedded in a bright
yellow circle, which is also the seconds counter. The silver dial reflects a
snailed pattern echoing the Bonneville surface. The counters are designed
like speedometers and the record-breaking speed of ‘184mph’ makes a
prominent appearance on the bezel’s tachymeter. The dial also features
luminous hour markers and a horizontal black line like the one across
Munro’s 1920 Indian Scout motorcycle. A major element that ties Munro
and Indian together is the Indian logo, stylishly denoted as the cursive ‘I’,
serving as a counterweight on the red central chronograph hand.
The calfskin leather strap of the watch is in a deep red—the same
hue as on Munro’s heavily customised ride. The screwed-down caseback
dons the Indian Motorcycle’s Native American headdress logo. With an
ETA Valjoux 7750 revving under the hood, this watch offers a 48-hour
power reserve.
The Swiss watch brand reckons to
scale greater heights as it launches an
armada of three watches that capture
the spirit of Indian Motorcycle and
ignite passion in watch connoisseurs
who are also motorsport enthusiasts.
THE INDIAN LEGENDS
Strengthening their involvement in the
masculine sports segment, Baume & Mercier
extends its portfolio with two more watches
dedicated to the motorcycle marquis,
Indian, namely the Clifton Club Scout and
the Clifton Club Chief. Alexandre Peraldi,
design director of Baume & Mercier and the
design team at Indian joined hands to capture
the Indian Motorcycle DNA and create
chronographs that form the ‘Indian Legends’
under the Clifton Club Indian collection.
One of these watches is modelled after the
lightweight Indian Scout motorcycle, while the
other reflects elements of the Chief, known for
its mighty power. The brand limits these two
chronographs too, to 1,901 units, based on the
year that Indian Motorcycle was established.
MORE THAN A BOY SCOUT
It is safe to tout the Scout as the most handsome
of all. The 44mm polished and satin-finished
stainless steel case is complemented by
ADLC (amorphous diamond-like carbon)
details on the tachymeter bezel and the
pushers. Powered by the self-winding Valjoux 7750 calibre,
this watch evokes a striking image of the mid-sized Indian
Scout in its open-worked grey dial. The black snailed counters
bear a resemblance to the V-twin engine machine, while the
yellow chronograph seconds hand has the Indian’s signature
‘I’ on its counterweight. It includes nuanced details such as
‘the date disc displays “1901” at the 19th day of the month
to recall Indian Motorcycle’s foundation date’. The classic
leather strap designed by the Horween Leather Company
has a rich brown tone.
THE INDIAN CHIEF
Tailored after the robust Indian Chief, this timepiece shares
most of its specifications with the Scout and has green
SuperLuminova infused in the riveted indexes and hour and
minute hands. The highlight on the Chief is the polished,
satin-finished stainless steel bracelet with three-link rows,
inspired by the Thunderstroke 111 engine’s lines, and is
secured by a triple-folding clasp.
The Indian Motorcycle spirit reflects even through
the packaging, with each piece presented in a unique box
wrapped in Indian’s hues. This alliance of Baume & Mercier
and Indian Motorcycle has presented a grail of a trilogy that
tops the watch charts for motor enthusiasts.
. 40 .

Best of 2018
THE WORLDWIDE
POLARIS
Jaeger-LeCoultre brings back a slice of history with their new
Polaris collection—inspired by an icon from the brand’s past—and
just the right elements of sporty functionality, in the form of the
new Polaris Chronograph World Time
Jaeger-LeCoultre
revived its own
glorious past by
unveiling the 2018
Polaris collection
` 9,55,000
By Sumita Bagchi
Owning a piece of history—a prized collection of philately,
heirloom jewellery, or even a classic watch—that has journeyed
through generations only brings back cherished memories,
and is hence rare and exclusive. Riding on this sentiment,
Jaeger-LeCoultre revived its own glorious past by unveiling
the 2018 Polaris collection at the Salon International De La
Haute Horlogerie in Geneva. This collection can be traced
back to 1968, to the legendary Memovox Polaris timepiece
with a built-in alarm feature—a path-breaking innovation that
was way ahead of its time.
WHERE SOPHISTICATED MEETS SPORTY
With 2018 marking the Memovox’s 50th anniversary, it
was befitting to pay it a tribute with the launch of five new
impressive models, including one limited edition piece,
which is almost a re-edition of the original 1968 Memovox
Polaris. These Jaeger-LeCoultre models resurface timeless
watchmaking housed in au courant versions, replete with
complications and finishes. There are a pair of three-hand
models (one with a date, and one without), a chronograph,
a world-timer, and a limited edition alarm variant to carry
the torch for the original watch that inspired the collection.
These timepieces serve as the perfect arm candy for the
modern multitasking man with an active lifestyle.
A classic sporty world-timer, the Polaris Chronograph
WT combines the chronograph feature with a very
functional world time display. While most world-timers can
be a task to read, this one, sized at a generous 44mm, is all
you need for enhanced, clear readability
of the cities. The upsized dial, however,
is offset by its thickness—12.5mm—which
makes it easy to wear, and the use of
titanium makes it pleasantly light and
comfortable on the wrist.
GLOBE-TROTTING TIME
In a striking ocean blue or black, with
differentiated sunray, grained and opaline
finishes, the dial features a bicompax
layout, with a 30-minute counter at three
o’clock and a 12-hour counter at nine.
Exemplifying the marriage of traditional
watchmaking with sporty functionality,
the true excellence of this watch lies in
the world time function. The external
cities ring is controlled by the crown at
10 o’clock. It shows the conventional 24
time zones, with lines and triangle pointers
indicating summertime in the respective
cities. Within the city ring, the 24-hour
ring offers an easy reading of the time in
any other time zone. All of this is powered
by an in-house, self-winding mechanical
movement, the Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre
752, which yields an impressive 65-hour
power reserve.
For the ease of a globe-trotting
watch connoisseur, the watch features the
numeral 24, the tip on the chronograph
hand, and the city of London—the
reference for universal time—all in red.
With white luminescent hour markers
and a suave brown leather strap for added
comfort, this has the makings of a perfect
travel companion.
. 42 .

Best of 2018
THE ART OF
RED MAGIC
Exemplifying the ‘art of fusion’, which Hublot constantly embodies
through relentless innovation with aesthetical and durable materials,
is the brand new Big Bang Unico Red Magic that presents the first
vibrantly-coloured ceramic—a true pièce de résistance
By Ranvijaysinh Jhala
Hublot is one of the few watch manufacturers that have made a
huge impact in the industry in very little time, as compared with
veteran brands that have centuries of watchmaking behind them.
With bold designs that are as distinctive as the most iconic watches
of all time, Hublot is the very definition of disruption. On the
technical front, the brand has certainly made a mark with their
watchmaking accomplishments, but what makes them truly stand
out are their strong design principles. Their Big Bang collection
presents edition after new edition, each one as recognisable as
the one that came before. While some might say that this practice
makes them predictable, it’s integral for the brand to keep that
signature style going. “Any brand that has an iconic model in their
line are the brands that are most successful today. For instance,
there’s Patek Philippe with the Nautilus, and Rolex with the Oyster
Perpetual…” CEO Ricardo Guadalupe weighs in. “I would say that
when you have a strong product, it’s the most important thing for
the brand.”
THE FORM OF FUSION
Even with the standard silhouette and structure of the Big Bang,
Hublot does more than the essentials to keep things fresh with
every new product. Known for their ‘art of fusion’—also the brand’s
motto—Hublot has shown a deep penchant for material innovations
that not only offer a visual treat but also have substance. From
developing their own alloys and hardened carbon fibre, to
successfully executing the fusion of materials such as leather
and rubber, Hublot has tirelessly innovated with the creation of
their own state-of-the-art materials. In 2011, for instance, they
The vibrant-hued
ceramic has been
used widely in the
new Red Magic
` 18,17,700
. 44 .

Best of 2018
In a limited edition of 500 units, this
exclusive timepiece is a fine display
of Hublot’s commitment to constantly
reinvent materials and alloys to best
suit their function in a watch.
COME TO THE
DARK SIDE
a fusion of pressure and heat that sinters
the ceramic, this is a true testament to
Hublot’s dedication towards pushing the
boundaries of material innovation.
introduced their own Magic Gold, a scratch-resistant
18-carat gold alloy realised through the ‘fusion’ between
24-carat gold and boron carbide, which is used in tank
armours and bulletproof vests. Naturally, Magic Gold was
extremely sturdy. They have also had immense success with
the unique hue of their pink gold alloy called King Gold.
A MAGICAL RED
Presenting the sheen of its truly glossy surface, and the depth
of its rich colour, this year Hublot unveiled Red Magic—
the first vibrantly-coloured ceramic—that is also far more
durable than conventional ceramic. Coloured ceramic has
been done before, but no ceramic used in watches has been
quite as vibrant as Red Magic is. “The vivid red ceramic
that we’ve used is a world first. Pigments used for colour are
generally fragile and often get burnt with the heat used in
the ceramic manufacturing process,” explains Guadalupe.
“Till now, no one has been able to do it, and after four years
of research and development, we have achieved the process
to actually produce this red ceramic.” Developed through
INSIDE THE MAGIC
The vibrant-hued ceramic has been
used in the bezel and 45mm case of the
Red Magic, which is water resistant to
100m and comes with a red rubber strap.
The same red is seen on the hands, hour
markers and sub-dials of this chronograph
timepiece, offering sheer contrast,
juxtaposed against the darker components
of the movement, seen through the
sapphire crystal of the skeleton display.
The Unico HUB1242 automatic calibre
put together with the micro-mechanic
skills of engineers and watchmakers, is a
superior flyback chronograph mechanism
that offers a whopping 72-hour power
reserve. With technical developments to
enhance reliability and robustness, the
performance of the movement surely won’t
pale in comparison to the vivid exterior of
this piece.
In a limited edition of 500 units,
this exclusive timepiece is a fine display
of Hublot’s commitment to constantly
reinvent materials and alloys to best
suit their function in a watch. With the
development of the Red Magic, there’s no
limit to the whole new world of coloured
ceramics that Hublot can open us up to,
amidst other innovations. Let the art of
fusion continue!
With the launch of the Speedmaster ‘Dark Side Of The Moon’
Apollo 8, record-setting Swiss watchmaker Omega lets you own
a piece of space history
By Sujana Raj Gurung
. 46 .

Best of 2018
After celebrating the 60th anniversary of
the Speedmaster in 2017, this year, Omega
made a grand statement on its association
with space exploration and lunar landings.
Contrary to its name, the Speedmaster
‘Dark Side Of The Moon’ Apollo 8 shines
bright among Omega’s latest offering.
This Speedmaster
celebrates the 50th
anniversary of the
Apollo 8 mission
Price on request
A BLAST FROM THE PAST
The NASA space mission conducted in the
year 1968 had astronauts travelling to the
far side of the moon, thereby going down
in history as the first humans to witness the
dark side of the celestial body. This watch
not only celebrates the 50th anniversary of
the Apollo 8 mission, but also pays tribute
to every Speedmaster Professional worn by
every Apollo astronaut.
It all started in 1957 when Omega
decided to launch the first Speedmaster
under its Professional series, originally
meant for motorists and racing enthusiasts.
It was the CK2915 fitted with a tachymeter
bezel placed outside the dial for the very first
time. With the ‘broad arrow’ hour hand, the
Speedmaster became an instant bestseller.
The new Alpha design hands replaced the
old ones in the CK2998 launched in 1959.
This was also the first Speedmaster to
travel to space during the Mercury-Atlas
8 (Sigma 7) mission, worn by astronaut
Walter M Schirra.
Meanwhile, NASA was scouting for
some technically robust wrist chronographs
and on their request, Omega’s North
American agent, without even checking
with headquarters in Switzerland, sent some
Speedmaster watches to NASA, unaware
of the intended use. When tested along
with watches from other manufacturers,
the Omega Speedmaster endured the
toughest of trials and NASA declared it as
the officially-certified watch for its manned
space programme.
It immediately became a part of
America’s first spacewalk during the Gemini
4 mission on June 3, 1965. With the growing
popularity of the Speedmaster, Omega
needed to accelerate commercial production
leading to the introduction of a new-age movement, the
Calibre 861, in 1968. This new calibre and its succeeding
versions power the Moonwatch even today.
THE MOON ON YOUR WRIST
With its 44mm case in brushed black ceramic, a skeletonised
dial, and yellow accents, the Dark Side Of The Moon Apollo
8 is a real masterpiece. While earlier versions of the series
featured two sub-dials with a date window at six o’clock,
the 2018 version has the traditional three sub-dials, and no
date. This is mainly due to the change in the movement—the
manual winding calibre 1869, a newer version of the calibre
1861. Intended for more than just nostalgia, the manualwinding
movement also shaves 2.5mm off the thickness of
the case. A layered design approach from the outer ring to
the applied lume-filled indices and minute markings works
perfectly against the skeletonised dial. The colour in the
markings on the black ceramic bezel’s tachymeter scale is
mirrored in the accents on the perforated black leather strap.
AROUND THE MOON WE GO
Elements of design on the front and back of the watch
also pay homage to the Apollo 8 mission. Blackened to
produce the look of the lunar surfaces, the dial and caseback
represent the moon’s view from the Earth, and the dark
side respectively. Aside from showing us the dark side,
the caseback also features the words, ‘We’ll see you on the
other side,’ a reference to astronaut, Jim Lovell’s final words
spoken to ground control during the Apollo 8 mission.
As one of the most influential watch brands, Omega
continues its stellar reputation, adding to the prestigious
Speedmaster family, with a timepiece that’s truly out of
this world!
. 48 .

Best of 2018
To understand a deep-rooted Swiss watchmaking ethos,
you have to look deep into the legacy of an independent,
family-owned watch manufacturer such as the Geneva-based
enterprise, Raymond Weil. In this world of super domination
by large corporations that own a majority of marquee
brands, Raymond Weil is still an exception. Founded in
1976 by Raymond Weil, the company is now headed by Elie
Bernheim, grandson of the eponymous founder of the brand.
The family has spent nearly half a century creating beautiful
timepieces, driven by strong, independent family values and
avant-garde Swiss watchmaking skills.
A new and exclusive
skeleton version
of the Freelancer
Calibre RW1212
` 2,20,900
INNOVATIVE LEAPS
‘Slow and steady’ is how one can describe Raymond
Weil’s progress over the last 42 years. And today, after
consolidating its position as a leading Swiss watch
manufacturer, Raymond Weil is charting its own path with
its development of in-house movements, using high-tech
materials. Raymond Weil came up with their first in-house
movement in 2017, progressing on a natural collaboration
with Sellita, the well-known Swiss movement manufacturer.
This year, the maison goes a step further by launching a
new and exclusive skeleton version of the Freelancer Calibre
RW1212 among their 2018 novelties. This is certainly proof
of Raymond Weil’s commitment towards pushing for more
products with in-house movements.
THE MOVEMENT
FREEDOM
Offering a full view of their first in-house calibre, the new Raymond Weil Freelancer RW1212
Skeleton is a big step ahead for the brand that is among the few independently-run
Swiss watch manufacturers that enjoy international success
By Mitrajit Bhattacharya
SHOW AND TELL
The new, stylish Freelancer RW1212 Skeleton is introduced
in a bold and distinctive model featuring an open-worked
dial, revealing most of the sophisticated movement with an
intricate perlage finish. The distinctive characteristic remains
the six o’clock positioning of its visible balance wheel on
the face of the watch. The dial, however, has been opened
further, exposing the manufacturing beauty and highlighting
the richness of watchmaking expertise, while infusing it with
its distinctive free-spirited attitude. The Freelancer RW1212
Skeleton is a two-hand model providing an undeterred
display of the hours and minutes.
While working on the initial design of the calibre
RW1212, the research and development team at Raymond
Weil redesigned and pared down all the elements closely
relating to the exquisite mechanism, so as to endow this
exclusive in-house movement with even more depth and
character. Framed by a 42mm steel case, the movement’s
assembly and open-worked details are key to the final
horological aesthetic of this timepiece. The self-winding
mechanical calibre RW1212 beats at a frequency of
28,800vph and provides a 38-hour power reserve. Adding
to the see-through beauty, the brand name engraved on the
oscillating winding weight has been skeletonised to increase
the transparency of the timepiece.
A HANDSOME LOOK
The new Calibre RW1212 Skeleton is
presented in three different executions,
offering three very different personalities for
this flagship product in the Freelancer family.
The full black PVD-treated version with rose
gold indexes and hands offers modernity and
urban style, while the brown leather strap
brings attitude and elegance to the rose gold
and stainless steel two-tone model. Finally,
the all-steel look featuring blue indexes and
hands offers a more cosmopolitan feel.
And with this, we look forward to what
else Raymond Weil has up their sleeves
with in-house calibres and further technical
advancement in the field of watchmaking.
. 50 .

Best of 2018
A true classic, the iconic ladies’ watch from Bulgari, the
Serpenti Tubogas saw a reincarnation this year in a glorious
medley of white, pink and yellow gold. For more than seven
decades, the Serpenti has been shedding its skin in countless
different ways, and what could be better than for it to grow
into myriad hues of gold!
many
The serpenti’s
skins
The latest avatar of the iconic Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas comes in a
combination of gold in three tones, proving yet again that the ever-evolving
Serpenti can don new skins for every new and enchanting edition
By Devika Mathur
A TIMELESS STYLE ICON
Over the years, the Serpenti has been seen wrapped around
the wrists of some of the greatest female icons. Unforgettably,
actress Elizabeth Taylor once famously adorned the
timepiece during the making of her film, Cleopatra. Serpenti’s
creator, the legendary watch and jewellery maker, Bulgari,
has ceaselessly upheld its 130-year-old legacy by creating
a fusion of classic, contemporary and versatile watches
for men and women. Each Bulgari watch is crafted out
of their several state-of-the-art facilities in Neuchatel and
La Chaux-de-Fonds in Switzerland, transforming into
fine examples of Italy’s innovative style and Switzerland’s
engineering acumen.
THE TUBOGAS UNRAVEL
The Serpenti, undoubtedly a cult line of the casa, is based
on one of the oldest mythological symbols representing
good and evil, wisdom, life and eternity, with its signature
element being Tubogas, meaning ‘tubes’. The eponymous
technique used creates elegant tubular links inspired by
Italian tubes. Wrapped tightly together, strips of metal are
coiled to create a hollow and flexible tubular chain. The
Serpenti embodies a harmonisation of the sensual curves of
a woman and the fluid shape of the serpent. Though there
is more to its design than meets the eye. The clever coiling
of the bands of gold on the bracelet allows it to glide onto
the wrist and coil around it with the ease of fabric. The
quintessential Bulgari touch lends glamour and opulence to
even the simplest designs. It’s no surprise then that this line
of watches has been such a hit through the ages.
A SENSUAL FORM
The original design of the tricolour configuration of the
new Serpenti dates back to the 1960s, when it was honed
to seamlessly transition from one gold tone to the other.
The 35mm Serpenti Tubogas case is in 18-carat rose gold,
fitted with an efficient quartz movement. The outline of the
case is accentuated by a setting of 38 round, brilliant-cut
diamonds, with a cabochon-cut pink rubellite adorning the
crown. The delicate but elegant black opaline dial is graced
with a guilloché soleil motif and enhanced by rose gold
hour markers. But the most interesting aspect is the double
spiral 18-carat rose, yellow and white gold Tubogas bracelet
that adds to the femininity of this universally appealing
timepiece. It is indeed a stunning mix of
the finest industrial design and archetypal
feminine form.
The Serpenti Tubogas watches are
among the few ladies’ timepieces that
continue to be reinvented and never fail to
enchant their wearers and fans alike. In an
undeniable declaration that some designs
remain eternal, the newest version of the
Serpenti Tubogas would forever remain a
symbol of desire and sensuality for women
everywhere. The fusion of three shades of
gold in a contemporary twist brings this
classic timepiece into the present and takes
it even beyond, firmly cementing it as a
timeless work of art.
The beautiful bracelet that coils
seductively around the wrist is a subtle
declaration of the strength of the woman
who wears it. The seamlessly blending
shades of gold on the Serpenti Tubogas
enhance its impact and what we love most
about the watch is that it makes for a perfect
accessory to take from day to night, ideal
to pair with a wide spectrum of colours
and ensembles. The Bulgari Serpenti is
nothing but pure joy for the eyes and on
the wrist. Aren’t we right, ladies!
The Bulgari Serpenti
Tubogas is an iconic
ladies’ watch
` 28,21,000
. 52 .

Best of 2018
the
TIMED
stars
IN
Moon phase indicators are older than the oldest timekeeping mechanisms
themselves. The new Slimline Moonphase Stars Manufacture by Frederique
Constant is an out-and-out celestial and horological spectacle that is
bound to make you starry-eyed
By Ishani Sirohi
The Slimline
Moonphase Star
Manufacture is the
epitome of grace
Starts at ` 3,43,600
With the launch of Frederique Constant’s new offering,
womanly sophistication and savoir faire have touched the
zenith of horological artisanship. The Slimline Moonphase
Stars Manufacture is the epitome of grace and the aesthetic
brainchild of Aletta Stas-Bax, co-founder and co-president
of Frederique Constant. Ergonomically made to adorn the
slender wrists of women around the world, the femininity of
the watch is elevated by the fact that it is designed by a woman.
A TOUCH OF GRACE
Set in a polished 38.8mm case, this watch comes in stainless
steel, also available with a rose gold finish, exuberating
radiance as it flaunts the 60 diamonds, meticulously set on
the bezel. The bespoke white diamonds exude the figurative
interpretation of the modern-day woman—a combination of
curves and mysteriousness. The beautiful watch comes in
two variations, which are equally gorgeous and take the
wearer on a one-of-a-kind galactic journey. The designing
of the curved dial received Stas-Bax’s special attention. The
blue dial version of the watch looks quite like the sparkling
galaxy, while the black variation mirrors a starlit sky.
While the dial is available in two striking
options—navy blue with a sunray finish, or
glossy black—the eight hand-set diamonds
and four silver-coloured applied indexes
are common in both the variations,
available with a blue or black alligator
leather strap respectively.
MOVING THE MOON
The hour and minute hands are either
rose gold-plated or carved out of nickel,
depending on the model. The highlight
of the watch remains the alluring circular
aperture at 12 o’clock, which depicts
the transition of the moon through a
shower of celestial stardust. At the heart
of the watch is the new in-house FC-701
movement, offering a 42-hour power
reserve, which exemplifies the brand’s
superior watchmaking techniques. The inhouse
movement has a perlage and Côtes
de Genève engraving. The transparent
caseback allows you a complete view of the
movement beating within.
This timepiece is not just a pretty
face but is also equipped with sound
mechanics. So, to all the ladies who
have always wished to wrap glittering
stars around their wrists, the Slimline
Moonphase Stars Manufacture is your
ticket to a stellar experience.
. 54 .

Best of 2018
Kaia’s Choice
Omega introduced the new Trésor
collection this year with its newest
brand ambassador—the fastest rising
name in the fashion industry, Kaia
Gerber, with a campaign titled ‘Kaia’s
Choice’. “I’m really drawn to classic
style, and for me, the Trésor has that
vintage look, but with a cool, very
modern twist. It’s a beautiful watch
to look at and I love wearing it,” says
Gerber, who is the daughter of Cindy
Crawford, the legendary supermodel
and long-time ambassador of Omega.
trove
A TRÉSOR
Digging up a treasure of inspiration from their past, Omega unveils their latest
collection of ladies’ watches this year, with the new face of the brand, Kaia
Gerber, model and daughter of the legendary Cindy Crawford. Discover the
dazzle of the new collection and find out what makes it so precious
By Sujana Raj Gurung
This year, Omega introduced us to an exciting new ladies’
collection—the DeVille Trésor—made especially with the
modern woman in mind. Characterised by its classic,
yet modern persona, the Trésor collection defies all style
trends. Intricately detailed and designed, each timepiece
exudes confidence—a trait that can easily be transferred
to the wearer of the watch, all the while paying tribute to
the rich heritage of the brand and their massive history of
developing exquisite women’s watches.
With reimagined elements like a beautiful, slim,
diamond-studded case, oversized Roman numerals on the
dial, classically inclined hands and fashionable straps, the
Trésor deeply personifies the shift in the way women think
about true beauty. It brings home the idea of beauty being
reflected by a woman’s uniqueness in character, strength,
intelligence and style. Each piece is unique—from the design
to the colour and materials used—just like the women who
have inspired the collection and the women who will
eventually adorn them.
THE BURIED TRÉSOR OF THE PAST
Used first by Omega in 1949, the word trésor means ‘treasure’
in French. At the time, this was a reference to the treasure
one would find inside the watch—the legendary calibre
beating within. The slim movement paved the way for the
Trésor collection to be synonymous with a thin, beautiful
case. This led to the introduction of a highly popular
De Ville Trésor, released in 2014.
Following the footsteps of the original, the
2014 version too featured a thin case with a
new co-axial movement beating inside. In
2018, Omega gave life to the Trésor
collection with a wide range of new
watches that feature the ‘treasure’—
a precise quartz movement housed within
an even thinner case.
Forward-thinking in its design and
character, it retains the quintessential
spirit of Omega’s repertoire of women’s
watches, including the Ladymatic and the
iconic Constellation collection. There’s no
doubt that the collection follows a long
tradition of beautiful ladies’ timepieces
from the brand with a modern twist.
. 56 .

Best of 2018
The simple beauty and gemsetting
expertise involved in
setting the diamonds reaffirms
Omega’s keen eye and steady
handiwork. It involves a selection
of high-quality stones, polished
and fixed in place with intricate
detailing and an expert touch.
The new Trésor
watches come with
diamonds on either
side of the bezel
Starts at ` 2,74,700
Grabbing the attention of a new generation of women, the
Trésor collection offers contemporary watches reminiscent of
the past.
DIGGING DEEPER
Available in a case size of either 36mm or 39mm, the Trésor
is distinctly characterised by the signature slim case, the
diamond-set bezel, and the beautifully realised oversized
Roman numeral hour markers. Besides the case, even the
crown features a single diamond, set and decorated with a
floral motif, made from five Omega emblems. Despite the
bling though, the watch isn’t flashy or loud, with impressive
restraint shown in its elegant design. Furthermore, the
watch is slim and has curves. The contours of the case and
lugs ensure it embraces your wrist perfectly. Also in curves
are the rows of diamonds paved on both sides of the bezel.
The simple beauty and gem-setting expertise involved in
setting the diamonds reaffirm Omega’s keen eye and steady
handiwork. The setting of the diamonds
involves first selecting a row of highquality
stones that fulfil the prerequisite
characteristics of the unique slots in the
specially designed case. Afterwards, the
diamonds are polished and fixed in place
with intricate detailing and an expert
touch. After a thorough final quality
check, the Trésor is now ready to shine on
your wrist.
Despite its historic claim to fame
of featuring slim yet high-performing
mechanical movements, back in 1949,
the new ladies’ De Ville Trésor offers the
precision of a quartz movement, with
Omega’s calibre 4061 beating inside.
Additionally, the watch is decorated with
a special mirror on the caseback, featuring
a ‘Her time’ design. This unique addition
reflects the brand’s endeavour to not
only provide a useful accessory but set a
powerful reminder to all women of their
uniqueness and contagious charisma.
THE POWER OF CHOICE
Omega sticks to its theme of celebrating
women and offers the collection in nine
different models, ensuring that ladies are
spoilt for choice. These include steel and
18-carat Sedna gold cases, with a range of
strap options in satin and leather. There is
also a wide range of dial colours that one
can choose from—including black, taupebrown,
white, blue, opaline silver, and a
mother-of-pearl option as well. There is no
doubt that each model of the Omega Trésor
collection ensures that the uniqueness of
every woman’s personality is celebrated,
cherished and distinguished with elegance.
. 58 .

Best of 2018
Based in Saint-Imier, Switzerland, Longines or the
Compagnie des Montres Longines Francillon SA was
founded by Auguste Agassiz in 1832. Since its inception,
the brand has been recognised as the archetype of pure
elegance, tradition and grandeur. Initially recognised for
their Aviators range of watches, courtesy the ubiquitous
association between the Swiss watchmaker and Charles
Lindbergh, Longines is one brand that has evolved into a
watch lover’s ultimate choice. For Longines, elegance is an
attitude that should reflect on the wearer’s wrist and charm
the world.
winner
A TRUE-BLUE
Echoing the biggest trends at Baselworld 2018, Swiss watchmaking
giant Longines played to their strengths to introduce a blue version
of the technically superior La Grande Classique De Longines
By Aditi Batra
The La Grande
Classique De Longines
comes with a metallic
mesh bracelet (left) and
leather strap (top right)
Starts at ` 59,200
A BRIEF HISTORY
It all started when Agassiz joined a trading office in Saint-
Imier, and took on the role of manager. The company
came to be known as Agassiz & Co, during which time,
he was producing timepieces under the ‘établissage’ system,
which entailed watchmakers manufacturing the watch and/
or movement at home and supplying the products to the
trading offices. Gradually, Agassiz formed a strong network
of commercial contacts and commenced selling watches
to other continents. During the 1850s, Agassiz’s nephew
Ernest Francillon took over the reins, and the evolution that
followed led to the setting up of Les Longines—the factory
where all the magic happens till date.
The introduction of a degree of mechanisation thereafter
included developing machines needed for perfecting the
manufacturing of timepieces. With great expansion, by the
20th century, Longines was selling its products all over the
globe. With a strong presence in over 150 countries, the
Swiss watchmaker has built a strong reputation, receiving
several accolades for its technical expertise and extensive
watchmaking know-how. For more than a century today, the
watchmaker has also been relishing an association as the
official timekeeper for world championships in sport and as
a partner of international sports federations.
RIGHT ON TREND
The La Grande Classique De Longines—the collection that
is emblematic of the winged hourglass brand—now comes
with a dial in a rich blue hue with a metallic mesh bracelet.
A representation of the classic elegance of Longines, this
line originally launched in 1992, has seen a number of
exciting variations over the years. Bringing
in modern refinement with this new version
in blue, the Swiss watchmaker has truly
enhanced its timeless style.
Featuring a blue sunray dial adorned
with inlaid stone, inlaid diamond or
Roman numeral hour markers, these
elegant timepieces come in four sizes—24,
29, 36, and 37mm. The true essence of
this collection is felt through the delicate
slim profile of these uniquely constructed
elegant timepieces.
A technique that is patented by
Longines can be witnessed by glancing at
the back of the case, which also serves as
the lugs for the strap. Available in a blue
alligator strap that matches the dial or a
stainless steel bracelet, the La Grande
Classique De Longines 2018 edition for
women is an aesthetic beauty.
Over the course of time, Longines
has evolved into a watchmaker whose
history has an intricate connection to the
history of watches for women. With a fleet
of gorgeous brand ambassadors, including
Kate Winslet, Aishwarya Rai-Bachchan,
Chi Ling Lin and Steffi Graf, Longines is
an unsurprising favourite among women.
. 60 .

Best of 2018
wrist
NATURE ON YOUR
Imbibing the true colours of nature in high-tech ceramic, Rado
offers an absolute treat for the eye with its newly unveiled True
Thinline collection
By Aditi Batra
The True Thinline Nature
collection comprises three
models—midnight blue
(left), verdant green (right)
and earthly brown
` 1,23,000
Amidst the novelties flaunting technical
prowess, gem-setting and cutting-edge
craftsmanship that we’ve seen this year,
several brands have also enhanced their
watchmaking engineering. And it comes
as no surprise that Rado is one of them.
The breakthrough watch collection for
women, with all its finesse and elegance, is
undoubtedly the Rado True Thinline.
The new Rado True Thinline Nature
collection has extremely thin watches in
high-tech ceramic and draws inspiration
from greenery, earth and water with
textured 39mm dials. The brand’s slimmest
ceramic collection exudes grace and
smoothness in its super-slim case that
measures a mere 4.9mm and runs on an
unbelievably thin quartz movement—just
1mm thick.
A TREAT FOR THE EYES
The True Thinline is a result of the creative
partnership with Grandi Giardini Italiani,
an organisation that serves as a vast network
of the major gardens in Italy and Malta.
Celebrating the amalgamation of design
and nature, the brand aims to provide a
pleasurable experience and visual appeal
with the use of vibrant colours of nature
in these unique timepieces—a refreshing
break from our increasingly urbanised and
chaotic lives.
Incorporating the aesthetic beauty
and the best elements of the natural world,
the True Thinline models are a treat for
the eyes. The theme of imbibing nature
resonates in every dial, depending on
the element it represents, varying from a
beautiful mother of pearl to a metallised
coating. The collection is sure to appeal to
modern-day women who have a fondness
for nature and all things soothing—
wonderfully reflected in the polished case
and bracelet.
RADO’S NEW TROIKA
In an endeavour to bring the pristine beauty of nature to the
wrist, the True Thinline Nature collection comprises three
models that are themed on the many elements of the natural
world. One can choose from the rich, taupe brown of earth,
the deep, midnight blue of water or the verdant green of
leaves. Building on their pioneering expertise in the use of
ceramic in watches, Rado bestows a unique dial treatment
that echoes the natural world.
The earth timepiece boasts a metallised coating that
reflects and refracts light beautifully off the polished brown
high-tech ceramic case. The brown, diamond powder
textured dial is wonderfully complemented by a polished
brown, high-tech ceramic titanium bracelet. Taking cues
from its element, the water version features a blue motherof-pearl
dial that evokes the ebb and flow of the open sea.
With the theme flowing smoothly through the blue bracelet,
there could be no doubt that blue is the colour du jour this
year. The third nature novelty, based on leaves, features a
green mother-of-pearl dial with a leaf structure applied to its
underside that shimmers brilliantly in the light.
While observing a simple palette, the True Thinline
boasts of a high-tech ceramic construction, monobloc
case and outstanding features such as lightness, thinness,
durability and scratch resistance. Rado presenting ceramic
watches is unsurprising as they have been pioneers in the
use of ceramic in watchmaking. Yet, they still find ways to
innovate with the material. The 2018 novelties, while staying
true to the essence of the brand also give us something
new and fresh.
. 62 .

Best of 2018
brazen
IT’S TIME TO BE
The new Tissot PR 100 Sport Chic is a formidable and
multi-faceted watch that serves as a badge of power for the
brazen woman of today
By Aditi Batra
Tissot’s repertoire for women extends this
year with a new entrant—the Tissot PR 100
Sport Chic watch. Crafted with a classical,
timeless design, the sleek and clean face
of this new edition singles it out as a set of
very modern watches.
The Tissot PR
100 Sport Chic
watch is an elegant
amalgamation of
sporty and feminine
details
` 28,500
THE DNA OF THE WATCH
The current global scenario has witnessed
a tremendous transformation with more
and more influencers becoming vocal and
steering conversations towards women’s
empowerment. The narrative is a-changing
with the keyword being ‘power’. A modernday
woman is now recognised as an epitome
of versatility, who likes being inquisitive,
adventurous, active, sporty, multi-faceted,
and enjoying life to the hilt. Matching
up to the vivacity of the contemporary
woman is the new Tissot timepiece, which
is an elegant amalgamation of sporty and
feminine details.
With a bold outlook on the strength
of a woman, it also aesthetically highlights
style, beauty and luxury. Its generous
round case, measuring 36mm, makes a
striking statement by being bigger than the
previous PR 100 Lady models, including
the automatic version, which maxes out at
34mm. Running on a quartz movement,
this watch is fitted with battery type Renata
371, offering an end-of-life indicator.
Adding superior functionality and ease are
the luminescent hands and indexes.
THE MANY FACES
Part of the T-Classic collection, this timepiece dons five
avatars—three in 316L stainless steel, offering dial options
such as white and black mother of pearl, and silver; and
two in two-tone, combining steel with PVD rose gold,
paired with mother-of-pearl and anthracite dials. Two of
these editions stand apart owing to the 12 Top Wesselton
diamonds representing the hour markers. All models feature
a date window at six o’clock. The sturdy bezel and simplified
bracelet make this a robust, beautifully streamlined,
everyday timepiece. This watch is water resistant to 100m,
making it as suitable for weekend watersports as it is for
weekday office wear.
With a certain kind of cool minimalism in its DNA, the
face of the watch leaves room for some fun experimentation,
as is evident in its five versions. Continuing the
long-standing association with the world of sport, the
165-year-old Swiss luxury watchmaker has certainly
widened its gamut with the new Sport Chic.
. 64 .

Best of 2018
THE BIG SMALL
CHANGE
Panerai is arguably one of the most recognisable brands
in the world owing to its strong design principles, and
how its distinctive character has evolved without a lot of
rapid changes. The most significant part of the brand’s
visual identity is perhaps the signature cushion shape of
the cases that are seen across their product lines, yet with
identifiable distinctions. The brand has ensured that along
with the strong identity they possess, their watches are also
technically strong. This year, a spokesperson from Panerai
declared that they are now a 100-percent manufacture brand.
From their base calibres to the haute horlogerie mechanisms,
all movements are now developed in-house. Housing these
movements are the distinguished cases of the collections.
The newest of them all is the Luminor Due, the thinnest of
Panerai’s watches, which has been decades in the making.
A DISTINGUISHED LOOK
As a supplier to the Royal Italian Navy, Panerai created
Radiomir, a radium-based powder to be used on the dials
of their watches for added luminosity and hence greater
visibility in low-light conditions. The first prototypes of
watches featuring Panerai’s patented Radiomir were made
just before World War II, but even today’s Radiomir watches
have elements of those pieces, including the cushion-shaped
case with welded wire lugs. On the request of the Royal
Navy, the Radiomir 1940 update had the lugs carved out
of the same block of steel that was used for the cushionshaped
case, for better durability underwater, and a crown
more tubular than conical. Panerai then patented a more
luminous material in 1949—the tritium-based Luminor,
which marked an evolution of the brand, with the launch
of the Luminor 1950 collection. Featuring what is today the
most distinctive-looking case from Panerai, the Luminor
structure includes a signature crown protector, with a
locking lever that has even inspired designs from various
other watch brands over the years.
THE LUMINOR SEQUEL
‘Due’ is literally Italian for ‘two’. The
modification to the Luminor case in the
Due is essentially its reduced thickness.
First introduced in 2016, the Luminor
Due was a turning point for the brand.
Incorporating all the goodness of the
architecture of the Luminor 1950, the new
case is subtly redesigned, with a more
streamlined structure. The clean lines
are coupled with a slimmer profile, built
for Officine Panerai’s thinnest automatic
calibres. All of this is still within the
cushion-shaped silhouette, predominant in
most Panerai watches.
SCALING IT DOWN
The Due has been successful in its
appeal to even those who probably found
Panerai’s watches a tad on the chunkier
side. However, in an attempt to widen
the Panerai fanbase, the Florentine brand
released the new Due in a size smaller than
any Panerai has ever been. At 38mm, the
The smallest Panerai watch ever, the brand new Luminor Due 3 Days Automatic
comes in a 38mm case and a splash of colour, but not without the signature
elements that represent the stellar reputation of the Italian brand and its
Swiss-made watches
By Ranvijaysinh Jhala
The Luminor Due
38 comes in two steel
versions and a third
model with a red
gold case (left)
Starts at ` 3,83,000
. 66 .

Best of 2018
THE RAINBOW
THAT MEETS THE
POT OF GOLD
Within each case is an
extremely accurate and
reliable manufacture
OP XXXIV automatic
movement
new edition of the Luminor Due makes
Panerai’s watches even more versatile.
Smaller sizes have been a growing trend
due to the market’s demands. There has
been a need for this size, especially from
Asia, the brand informed us. They stated
that the new size was not necessarily
an attempt to cater to women or men in
particular; instead, they believe it is a
size that appeals to anybody with smaller
wrists. With the thinness of the case, the
watch certainly is extremely comfortable
on the wrist.
SMALL YET MIGHTY
The 38mm case comes in two steel versions. The ‘acciaio’—
Italian for steel—used in them is a special alloy with high
corrosion-resistant properties. With a polished finish on the
case and bezel, these timepieces flaunt an ivory dial featuring
blue Arabic numerals, and an anthracite sandwich-format
dial respectively. The former comes with a blue leather strap
with a Saffiano finish, while the latter has a leather strap in
mint green. A third version comes in an ‘oro rosso’ or red
gold case—built from a special alloy with a high proportion
of copper for its hue, and platinum, which helps prevent
oxidisation of the metal. The dial on this is similar to the
steel and blue variant. The dials of all three watches house
a small seconds sub-dial at nine and a date window at three,
along with adequate luminosity on the hour markers and
hands for optimum readability even in the dark. Within
each case—just 11.2mm thick—is an extremely accurate and
reliable manufacture OP XXXIV automatic movement that
offers a three-day power reserve.
With the abundance of colour in the Luminor Due,
Panerai is looking quite different than it has in the past,
but its iconic appeal is very much intact in this new
edition, despite being more compact. And given its highperformance
timekeeping, you can rest assured that big
things certainly come in these smaller packages!
Legend has it that there’s a pot of gold at the end of
every rainbow, but the new Rolex Oyster Perpetual
Cosmograph Daytona ‘Rainbow’ edition in Everose
gold brings the fantasy to life, in the form of
a flagship timepiece that has already become
a collectible
By Ranvijaysinh Jhala
. 68 .

Best of 2018
The most expensive
watch ever sold
Given the iconic status of the Cosmograph
Daytona, over the years there have been
many public figures who have famously
owned various editions of the watch. The
most famous of these is the 1968 Rolex
Ref 6239, which legendary actor and
successful racer, Paul Newman owned.
His watch inspired a collection that would
be known as the ‘Paul Newman Daytona’.
More significantly, the piece that Newman
owned became the most expensive watch
ever sold, when it was auctioned off by the
Phillips auction house in New York City for a
winning bid of $17,752,500, in October 2017.
Daring, bold, and polarising are three words that can
certainly describe one of the biggest conversation starters
of the year from the world of watches. The Rolex Oyster
Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona is anyway such an
iconic watch, so when Rolex decides to scatter gemstones
across the face of a new edition, it’s no surprise that there
will be more than a shimmering of excitement. The new
Cosmograph Daytona is resplendent with sapphires in
various hues, covering the entire spectrum of the rainbow.
And the VIBGYOR arrangement of the stones is what earns
this piece its oh-so-endearing nickname. The Daytona
‘Rainbow’ as it is called, has for the first time, been set in
Everose gold, Rolex’s very own pink gold alloy—cast in the
brand’s own foundry—seen on the case and Oyster bracelet.
Previously, this Rainbow watch has been realised in white
gold and in yellow gold, both of which have become serious
collectors’ items over the years, and it sure looks like this
one is also a part of that league now.
A JEWEL IN THE ROLEX CROWN
What particularly makes this watch a collectors’ piece is the
fact that it’s not a range of watches from Rolex that you’d
The new Cosmograph
Daytona is resplendent
with sapphires in
various hues
Price on request
normally expect to see gemstones on.
Aside from the occasional hour markers in
diamonds, the Daytona is a piece that is
generally sportier in nature. Named after
the Daytona Beach and Road Course for
motor-racing in Florida, USA, the origins
of this series can be attributed to inspiration
drawn from Sir Malcolm Campbell, who
set five speed records in Daytona in 1905.
Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex was
so taken in by the motorist’s achievements
that he drew parallels between his brand
and Campbell’s personality, and even
signed him on as a brand ambassador.
Originally, the Daytona watch was
only called ‘Rolex Chronograph’, right
up until the 1950s, when ‘Cosmograph’
was registered, but seldom used in
communications. With the fanfare that
Daytona racing was garnering year
after year, it was only natural for Rolex
to attach the muse of the watch to the
name of the watch itself. In 1965, it was
rechristened to ‘Cosmograph Daytona’,
but not before it had already seen an
evolution since its origin. Earlier in the
’60s, the chronograph counters and small
seconds sub-dial had been designed to
offer sharper contrast against the rest
of the dial. And that’s true even for this
latest edition of the Cosmograph Daytona.
A SUMPTUOUS, JEWELLED TREAT
The new Daytona Rainbow comes with a black lacquered dial,
with its chronograph counters and small seconds sub-dial in
pink Gold Crystals, a special material with a shimmer effect,
realised through Rolex’s crystallisation of a pink gold alloy. The
dazzle continues with 11 hour markers in baguette-cut sapphires,
corresponding in colour to those on the jewel-encrusted bezel
that replaces the sporty tachymeter scale you would otherwise
see on a Daytona watch. And that’s not all. Other parts of the
Everose case are also encrusted with diamonds, with 56 stones
on the lugs and crown protector.
BEHIND ALL THAT GLITTERS
There’s more to this watch than a dazzling, pretty face. Housed
within the 40mm Oyster case, water resistant to 100m, is the
Rolex calibre 4130, a self-winding mechanical chronograph
movement. Manufactured by Rolex and certified as a
Superlative Chronometer—a certification based on tests that
ensure that it surpasses the standard of industry chronometers—
this calibre offers an impressive 72-hour power reserve.
Why then would wearing this watch not be anyone’s
dream come true! The rich Everose and the dimensions of the
beautifully-cut gemstones with their burst of colour are nothing
short of a real fantasy.
. 70 .

Best of 2018
SESQUICENTENNIAL
SPLENDOUR
From the Jubilee Edition of IWC, which marks 150 years of
excellence in Swiss watchmaking and achievements galore,
is the beautifully radiant contemporary classic, the IWC
Portofino Hand-Would Moon Phase Edition ‘150 Years’
By Ranvijaysinh Jhala
A minority among Swiss watch brands, IWC is located
in eastern Switzerland, away from the several watch
manufacturers based in the French-speaking towns.
However, having the name of its hometown, Schaffhausen,
as part of its identity is not its only distinguishing factor.
Having carved a niche with its understated timepieces,
IWC celebrates its 150th anniversary this year. Founded in
1868, by American engineer and watchmaker, Florentine
Ariosto Jones, the idea behind the ‘International Watch
Company’ was to combine American engineering with
Swiss craftsmanship. After surviving wartime destruction
and changing many hands over decades, in 2000, IWC was
acquired by the Richemont group.
Now counted among the leading manufacturers
of luxury timepieces, IWC is renowned for its classical
timepieces, impressive technical feats and haute horlogerie.
Aside from creating high-precision timekeeping instruments,
the brand also contributes to the society and the environment
by championing the cause of sustainable production, while
also extending support towards global initiatives.
THE JUBILEE LINE
Among IWC’s signature collections of watches are the
Portugieser (formerly, Portuguese) collection, the Pilot’s
Watch, Da Vinci, Aquatimer, Ingenieur and Portofino. For
the brand’s sesquicentennial celebrations this year, IWC
crafted a special Jubilee Edition of some of these flagship
watches, bearing the mark of ‘150 Years’. The Jubilee Editions
retain the intrinsic architecture of each of these collections
with the individual pieces, while following strong visual cues
defined for the Edition. The watches either have a white dial
with blued steel hands or a blue dial with rhodium-plated
steel hands, except for the gold versions.
Particularly impressive is the new Portofino Hand-
Wound Moon Phase Edition ‘150 Years’. Available in either
a steel case, with a dial in white or blue, or an 18-carat pink
gold case with a blue dial, the watch, like any other Jubilee
model, has a slick, glossy look owing to the lacquering on the
dials. Whether in blue or white, these dials are coated with
10 layers of lacquer, lending a sheen akin to a pristine enamel
finish. On their dials, all three models feature a small seconds
sub-dial at six, a power reserve indicator between eight and
nine, and a moon phase display at 12 o’clock.
THE PORTOFINO EVOLUTION
It’s interesting to know that the very first Portofino model
that IWC made in 1984 was also a moon phase timepiece,
which marked the start of the classical line that would soon
be in high demand. Since then, the elegant line of watches
that draws from the Italian town of Portofino has been a
symbol of the laidback lifestyle of the Mediterranean. Its
evolution over the last 34 years has seen several features
and subtle updates to the case design that
help maintain its classicism while keeping
up with the times.
TRUE UNDERSTATED ELEGANCE
In this new Jubilee update, the design
reflects understated elegance with its hour
markers and feuille-shaped hands that sweep
across the dial. Even the rhodium-plated
detailing on the moon phase display has
been presented with perfection. All of this
runs on an in-house IWC calibre 59800,
with an accurate moon phase indicator,
to be corrected only once in 122 years.
This movement offers an eight-day power
reserve and is housed in a 45mm case, with
a sapphire crystal glass and caseback, water
resistant to 30m. Completing the gorgeous,
refined look, all three versions come with a
black alligator leather strap.
Limited to 150 pieces in gold and 350
in steel, this is a watch that truly represents
the class and elegance of IWC’s timepieces—
a Jubilee Edition worthy of the brand’s
milestone indeed.
Limited to 150 pieces in
gold and 350 in steel, this is
a watch that truly represents
the class and elegance of
IWC’s timepieces
Starts at ` 8,89,000
. 72 .

Best of 2018
IN FORMULA ONE
COLOURS
Inspired by George Graham, the ‘father of the chronograph’, Graham takes forward the
legacy of the British watchmaker, with its innovative watchmaking techniques, signature
look and bold Swiss-made timepieces. Find out more about the brand’s latest addition
to the Chronofighter family, with inputs from the brand’s founder and CEO, Eric Loth
By Aditi Batra
These automatic
chronographs are
offered in a slew of
bold colours, including
orange, green,
and purple
Price on request
There was a time when most of the greatest
timekeeping innovations, those which
paved the path for several mechanical
watchmaking breakthroughs, were
developed by the British. “One good reason
for this was that the English were looking for
more precision at sea,” explains Eric Loth,
the founder and CEO of Graham watches.
“They needed to know the time, to know
the exact longitude and other details to help
with navigation. The English conquered
and ruled the world for so long because
they knew the location of everything.” Time
was paramount, as some of the greatest
explorers even financed the research and
development undertaken by clockmakers,
who in turn, went on to develop the biggest
timekeeping inventions of their time. One
such inventor and pioneer was George
Graham, an Englishman, who began
his career as a clockmaker in the
late 17th century.
THE BIRTH OF GRAHAM
WATCHES
A scientist and an eminent watchmaker,
George Graham was a friend to
astronomers, and his inventions included
the most precise clock for the Greenwich
Royal Observatory, which was used to time
most of the naval achievements in the 18th
century. However, Graham’s most renowned
invention was the start-and-stop mechanism
to measure the duration of events, which
is basically what a chronograph is, and
hence the reason why George Graham is
known as the ‘father of the chronograph’.
It’s this distinction that has been the greatest
source of inspiration for the modern-day
Graham watches and their applications
of the chronograph. “For me, it was about
transforming my knowledge about watches,
the history of watchmaking, and my culture
as an engineer, into a brand,” informs
Loth. In 1994, along with a few partners, he
acquired the rights to use George Graham’s
name in a brand of Swiss-made watches.
The dial houses a plethora of details: white or green
SuperLuminova-coated numerals, snailed counters,
a reversed minute counter, a coloured chrono-hand,
and a graduation with tachymeter and minute
scales that harmonises with the strap colour.
FAST AND FURIOUS
Over the years, Graham has produced a number of distinctive
innovations; the most noteworthy one being the patented
chronograph mechanism built with a signature side-mounted
trigger. Reminiscent of wrist-grenades, the trigger lends
a military look to the brand’s emblematic Chronofighter
collection. Taking forward the Chronofighter legacy and their
associations with motorsports, this year, Graham unveiled
the Chronofighter Superlight Carbon series that draws
inspiration from the vibrantly coloured racing tyres spotted
in Formula One racing. It features a 47mm superlight case
entirely made of carbon, and lugs with the iconic Graham
trigger crown. The brand has also used carbon for its signature
crown protector-cum-chronograph trigger. The dial houses
a plethora of details: white or green SuperLuminova-coated
numerals, snailed counters, a reversed minute counter, a
coloured chrono-hand, hands on the minutes and seconds
counters, and a graduation with tachymeter and minute
scales that harmonises with the strap colour.
These automatic chronographs are powered by the
G1747 calibre, which offers a power reserve of 48 hours.
Weighing less than 100g each, these sporty timepieces adorn
eye-catching rubber straps with a Clous de Paris decoration
in a slew of bold colours, including green, orange, purple,
yellow, red, white, grey, black, and blue.
THE ROAD AHEAD
New ideas and projects are picked by the team at Graham
at opportune moments. Superlight, for instance, is one of
them. “It’s something that we decided to do this year. We
believe that the superlight watch at the price-point we offer is
something that will be a key demand from the industry,” Loth
declares. “Having the pleasure of a mechanical timepiece, yet
one that is lightweight is something that people will want.”
And it’s true.
Material innovation is one key area where Graham
excels. Thorough research in high-tech materials and
developing those materials that offer opportunities for
great designs as well as durability, is a major priority for the
brand. With international patents in material technology and
watchmaking, Graham is certainly a brand to take seriously.
“We’re here for the long haul,” says Loth. “I see this brand
growing phenomenally.” With a bold signature look, technical
innovation, and the strong influence of watchmaking legacy,
that’s not hard to believe.
. 74 .

Best of 2018
ALWAYS IN THE
ZONE
A secondary time zone watch that is essentially for Indians, among others who hail
from zones with the extra half-hour time difference, the Oris Big Crown ProPilot
Calibre 114 is certainly a dazzling feather in the brand’s cap
By Ranvijaysinh Jhala
Nowadays, it has become crucial to know the time in more
time zones than the one you’re in and in the absence of Wi-Fi,
your mechanical timepiece can be your go-to device. When
it comes to India, though, we’ve always had to account for
the extra half-hour—the inconvenient 30 minutes that we still
count mentally even when using a watch with a GMT feature.
But not anymore. This year, Oris has unveiled a time zone
watch that is meant exactly for us, and people from other time
zones, who have the additional 30 minutes to consider. Oris
gives us the Big Crown ProPilot Calibre 114.
ADVANCED FUNCTIONALITY
“Two years ago, someone from India asked us: why don’t
you do something for us, since we have the half-hour time
difference,” reveals Ulrich Herzog, chairman of Oris. “And
we began to develop this movement. It represents the values
of the company, our history of movement making, and
innovation that has practical application.” Herzog refers to
the brand’s philosophy of only ever creating watches with
features that make sense to a user.
crown complement the coin-edged ring of
the bezel, accompanying a smooth top ring
with a brushed or polished finish.
The new Big Crown
ProPilot features a
transparent caseback,
displaying the calibre 114
Price on request
AN ADDITION TO TRADITION
Following a history of developing mechanisms after the
brand’s foundation in 1904, Oris returned to creating
manufacture calibres in 2014, as they celebrated their 110th
anniversary. That was when the Oris Calibre 110 was born,
marking a return to a league of mechanical watchmaking.
The brand had no intention of stopping there. “That first
movement had a power reserve of 10 days, with no date. And
then there was Calibre 111, with a date. And it continued
with 112, 113,” Herzog explains with pride, as he talks about
the brand’s annual in-house calibres.
While most of the in-house calibres have been
introduced in the Oris Artelier collection, the Calibre 114
movement became the first to be launched in the Big Crown
series. It was an apt choice by the brand to showcase this
calibre in a Big Crown watch, with a GMT function as the
key feature—originally meant for pilots. Endowed with big
crowns, these watches allow users to easily make adjustments
even while wearing aviation gloves. This functionality is
particularly handy for the Calibre 114 edition, since the
movement is manual winding. The knurled edges of the big
IT’S ALL IN THE FACE
The Oris in-house calibre, offering a 10-
day power reserve, is housed within a
stainless steel case, water resistant to
100m. The 44mm case size is justified
owing to the features packed into the
movement. On the dial in anthracite grey
or black, with applied Arabic numerals,
there is a small seconds sub-dial, a date
aperture at nine o’clock and Oris’ patented
non-linear power reserve indicator at
three. Besides the central hour and minute
hands, there is a central GMT hand, with
its unique red arrow-head pointing to the
24-hour timescale, which also has dots to
indicate the half-hour points between each
hour. The SuperLuminova on the central
timekeeping hands and the hour numerals
ensures optimal readability in low-light
conditions. Available with a brown
crocodile leather strap, this timepiece also
comes with a steel bracelet or a fabric strap
in black, grey or olive.
Real value is key in more ways than
one with this watch, as it always is for Oris.
Putting an end to any Indian’s search for
the ideal GMT watch, this Oris novelty is
perfect for any jet-setter.
. 76 .

Best of 2018
REVISITING
THE ICONS
Slowly and steadily, Nomos Glashütte has been
revolutionising their watchmaking prowess, sending
shockwaves through the industry, especially with their
in-house manufactured escapements. Manufacturing the
calibre itself proves the watchmaker to be a technical
sensation. For Nomos, it started with Epsilon, their first inhouse
calibre, which marked the beginning of a new era,
metamorphosing the brand into a calibre producer and
firmly establishing it as a serious competitor in the watch
world. The Epsilon was the brand’s first major and almost
complete in-house manufactured movement, introduced in
the Tangomat. “Today we’ve got 11 calibres, all made by
ourselves,” shares Judith Borowski, chief branding officer,
Nomos, “To have 11 calibres is something special, and we
don’t buy anything, which I think is exceptional. I don’t
know many Swiss brands that are doing that.”
THE GAME-CHANGING CALIBRE
As is typical at Nomos, traditions undergo a modern
twist. This year, the distinctive brand introduced a highly
innovative and technologically sophisticated calibre:
the Neomatik Date DUW 6101. DUW stands for Nomos’
complete name ie Nomos Glashütte Deutsche Uhrenwerke
(meaning ‘German clockworks’). Exemplifying outstanding
mechanics, this Nomos automatic calibre is extremely
thin—only 3.6mm in height.
Reimagining their iconic collections—Tangente, Orion,
and Ludwig—the watchmaker has infused this new calibre
with a tailor-made date design for all three. Distinctive in
appearance, this mechanism can also be easily set both
forward and backwards, allowing the wearer to obtain
a smart view of the entire month. Measuring 40.5mm in
diameter, all three watches have considerably grown and
yet remained slender.
Imparting a novel and completely out-of-the-box style,
the date design has been aesthetically placed on the edge
of the dial—a unique feat for timepieces with a diameter
larger than 40mm. A closer look at the movement of the new
Updates reveals that the Neomatik Date calibre is richly
equipped and luxuriously decorated with the embossed and
gold-plated engraving on the rotor.
In 2015, Nomos Glashütte had introduced DUW
3001, the first Neomatik calibre, which was a sensation in
every sense of the word, as it enabled the production of
impressively slender automatic watches. With a successor
like the DUW 6101, Nomos has set a new benchmark for
date watches.
affirms Nomos designer Michael Paul, who
gave Tangente its update.
Known for its understated glamour,
the Orion Neomatik embraces a
generously proportioned date at three
o’clock—balanced, classic and with highly
appealing typography. Orion, the most
reserved of the Nomos watches, gets an
extra dash of refined elegance and luxury
with this update. Ludwig, the most popular
Nomos watches, are now a tick larger
with the addition of the Neomatik Date
calibre. Making things as convenient as
can be, the date window is positioned at
four o’clock, elegantly integrated as the
one Arabic number among the otherwise
Roman numerals in the large dial of this
traditionalist series.
Over the years, Nomos Glashütte has
been conjuring miracle movements that
tirelessly power their timepieces. Originally
acknowledged for outstanding hand-wound
movements, the exceptional watchmaking
company is now excelling at automatic
calibres, which are just as precise and some
even just as thin. Ensuring high precision
with path-breaking innovations, the
engineers at Nomos strive to challenge the
status quo and continually emerge stronger.
The iconic collections—
Tangente, Orion, and
Ludwig—have been
reimagined with a new
calibre, featuring
a tailor-made date design
Starts at ` 3,46,600
Intensifying their iconic collections—Tangente, Orion, and Ludwig—
with their new Update series, Nomos Glashütte has infused a highly
innovative and technologically sophisticated calibre: the Neomatik
Date DUW 6101, along with a tailor-made date design
By Aditi Batra
THE NOMOS TRIFECTA
Tangente has been a continuous bestseller for more than
two decades. The epitome of the Nomos brand, this prizewinning
classic underwent a makeover this year. With the
update running gloriously around the clock, the Tangente’s
circular date ring features two red dots, which frame the
current date and underline Tangente’s design-orientated
character. “The date simply shows what this calibre can do,”
. 78 .

Best of 2018
IN THE LEAGUE OF
EXTRAORDINARY
CALIBRES
Under the loupe: a magnificent Baumatic movement
in the Clifton Baumatic collection
By Ishani Sirohi
The hunt for a no-nonsense dress watch with a high-precision
automatic movement, in a certain category, is now over with the new
Baumatic from Baume & Mercier. The highlight of the watch is the
movement beating at its centre—the ‘Baumatic’ BM12-1975A calibre.
By incorporating this in-house movement, Baume & Mercier has
become the first brand from the Richemont Group to offer a watch
with a silicon balance spring and a high-performance escapement.
THE INCEPTION OF A WIZARD MOVEMENT
The horological feat and highly ambitious task to create a
mechanical, self-winding in-house movement was always on the
brand’s checklist, but eluded its offerings so far, due to logistic
issues or other roadblocks, time and again. However, the stars
finally aligned for Baume & Mercier. A partnership with the newly
founded Richemont Research & Innovation teams, and the stateof-the-art
facilities of their ValFleurier manufacturing unit led to
the inception of the reliable Baumatic movement. The innovative
process that came to fruition this year has already been declared
a major success, courtesy the extremely competitive price of the
Baumatic collection.
The all-rounder collection has mighty impressive technical
features such as the silicon escapement and a grand, five-day
power reserve. The team at Richemont, after extensive research,
innovated with the Twinspir technology, which is ‘applied to a
new hairspring with a composite structure, combining two cores
of silicon’. The movement takes into account the watch beholder’s
ease and due to the use of lubricants that cut down the friction, the
watch does not need frequent servicing. The overall anti-magnetic
movement, in a nutshell, is extremely efficient, reliable and accurate
to -4/+6 seconds per day.
The highlight of
the Baumatic is the
movement beating at its
centre—the ‘Baumatic’
BM12-1975A calibre
Starts at ` 2,05,000
. 80 .

Best of 2018
A watch that needs
a special mention is
the Baumatic 5-Day
Chronometer for
its sheer technical
advancement
STELLAR VAR IATIONS
The brand has introduced not one or two, but five new
diverse watches under the Baume & Mercier Clifton
collection. Exuding contemporary aesthetics and design,
while still honouring conservative watchmaking ideals,
these timepieces are hugely successful among all watch
connoisseurs, new and seasoned alike. The Baumatic
collection has a particularly elegant steel case measuring
40mm in diameter, without losing out on the Clifton’s
masculine persona. The polish on the case is refined, giving
it a true luxe appeal, which translates to the curvaceous lugs
as well and domed sapphire crystal over
the dial. The contemporary watch has dial
options in pristine white or intense black
with legibility being a key advantage,
heightened by the faceted and applied
baton hour markers. Complementing the
urban man’s character, the long, slender
lancet hour and minute hands sweep
across the dial, where a functional date
window marks its presence adjacent to
three o’clock.
A gorgeous movement such as the
Baumatic can’t be kept in the dark behind
solid steel, hence it’s no surprise that the
Swiss watchmakers have wisely picked a
transparent caseback for all their models.
A durable alligator leather strap with a
pin buckle is the perfect modern spin to
a 1950s look. The plethora of colour
options available for the two-tone version—
dark blue, deep black or warm brown—are
easily interchangeable. There is also one
variation available in a solid five-row steel
bracelet with a triple folding clasp.
A CUT ABOVE THE REST
A watch that needs a special mention is the
Baumatic 5-Day Chronometer for its sheer
technical advancement. The Baumatic
movement powering this variation is
chronometer-certified, joining the league
of watches from brands such as Rolex and
Breitling, among other elites. The COSC
certification indicates that the movement
is extremely accurate and operates at a
frequency of 28,800vph. This Baumatic is
water resistant to a decent 50m mark and
is accompanied with a black leather strap
featuring slate-grey stitching.
The Clifton Baumatic being the first
Baume & Mercier collection with an inhouse
movement, truly brings out the
essence of the brand. In the future, we
could expect Richemont Group to extend
the accurate calibre to other brands,
but for now, it sits exclusively in the
Baumatic series.
shine
let it
The extremely wearable watch from
Raymond Weil, with effortlessly
interchangeable bracelets and straps, is back
in an all-new avatar. Presenting: the shimmer
of the new Raymond Weil Shine Oval
By Mitrajit Bhattacharya
Raymond Weil has had an array of ladies’
collections over the decades, including the
hugely successful Noemia and Jasmine
series. Among these, the one that’s been
shining the brightest in recent years has
been the Shine range. The Shine collection
from Raymond Weil has been enthralling
women with classic and timeless designs
over the years. Introduced in 2006, the
highlight of Shine watches has been the
patented interchangeable bracelet system
that they incorporate. Last year’s Shine Etoile edition presented
a resplendent line of timepieces with and without gemstones, and
with a choice in easily interchangeable straps.
A GLOWING NEW EDITION
At Baselworld 2018, among the ladies’ watches unveiled, the
Raymond Weil Shine Oval truly stands out, owing simply to its
stunning new oval shape and, of course, the ease and convenience
of the interchangeable bracelets and straps. The replacement
of the strap can be achieved by merely a click of a button and
the rotation of a disc on the caseback, which helps release the
bracelet from the case. The watch comes with two options—a
polished stainless steel bracelet, equipped with a double-push
security system of the Raymond Weil folding clasp, as well as a
black satin strap, with a polished steel ardillon buckle.
A RADIANT LOOK
The oval case, measuring an elegant 42mm by 29mm comes
in stainless steel, is fitted with 32 full-cut diamonds. Powered
by a quartz movement, its features include hours and minutes,
indicated via central hands in blue seen through the sapphire
crystal glass on a silver dial. While the crown is in polished
steel, fluted with a blue sapphire, the indices are in black
Roman numerals. Even though one doesn’t require a great water
resistance with a dress watch of this nature, the case of the Oval
Shine is water resistant to a very satisfactory depth of 50m.
An ever-expanding offering, the Shine watch just multiplies
the possibilities of what your look can be. From a conference
to cocktails, or from a brunch to a soirée, this is your ideal
day-to-evening accessory. And with this watch, Raymond Weil
proves yet again that they have a lot to offer with their variety of
timepieces for men and women alike, all the while embodying a
traditional Swiss watchmaking culture.
The watch comes with
two options—a polished
stainless steel bracelet,
as well as a black satin
strap, with a polished steel
ardillon buckle
Starts at ` 1,10,200
. 82 .

Best of 2018
enmeshed
ELEGANCE
With an inspiring history spanning centuries, venerated Swiss
watch manufacturer Carl F. Bucherer presents updated variations
to the Adamavi collection—a treat especially for ladies
By Mitrajit Bhattacharya
Carl F. Bucherer has a history of 130
years during which they have harnessed
inimitable values such as the pursuit of
perfection, attention to detail, technical
innovation, elegance and strength. The
Adamavi collection—a stunning example
of the classic watch—places these values
in a beautiful manner on your wrist. With
their understated and enduring design,
watches bearing the name of Adamavi
are suitable for all occasions. These
purist timepieces have their own aesthetic
continuity, and therefore, represent real
value that is certain and timeless.
Translated from Latin, Adamavi
means ‘to come to love something’ or ‘to
take pleasure in something’. The name
embodies the true spirit of a popular
collection that combines timeless elegance
with the reliable mechanical prowess of
the manufacture. Adding to its successful
Adamavi collection, the Swiss watchmaker
has introduced new additions in three
different sizes.
A FINE SELECTION
Offered within the 2018 range are two
automatic calibres and one hand-wound
calibre, each one suiting the respective
timepiece just perfectly. With a case
measuring 39mm in diameter, the larger
size Adamavi is favoured by both sexes.
The new addition is a version featuring
the CFB 1968 hand-wound movement,
featuring a stainless steel case and a rose
gold bezel. The black dial, with gold-plated
hands, indices and Arabic numerals, adds
to its elegance, and the watch can be
customised with a black alligator leather
strap or a link bracelet with stainless steel
and rose gold elements.
The biggest highlight this year is a new automatic
Adamavi for those who prefer a thin design. The watch uses
a CFB 1950 calibre featuring a date display. What stands out
for this timepiece is, however, a supple Milanese bracelet
that offers immense comfort to the wearer.
A TREAT FOR THE LADIES
Less is more. This philosophy can certainly be seen amidst
the new Adamavi edition. There are four new models for
ladies in steel, including sizes in 31 and 28mm. These
timepieces use the automatic movement, CFB 1963, which
features a date function. Every detail of the watch has clearly
been designed with great focus. There are various design
options on dials as well as straps. The most striking of these
are the versions with stainless steel Milanese bracelets,
which make them ideal as dress watches as well.
The Adamavi timepieces are truly impressive
companions for your wrists, with visual appeal that will
outlast the short-lived trends of our present time, conferring
an aura of reliability and continuity upon their owners.
The 2018 Adamavi
watches come in
several sizes, including
28mm and 31mm
Starts at ` 1,97,000
There is a new automatic Adamavi for those
who prefer a thin design. The watch uses a
CFB 1950 calibre featuring a date display,
and a supple Milanese bracelet that offers
immense comfort to the wearer.
. 84 .

Best of 2018
SWEET
wrists
TREATS
FOR SLENDER
With the introduction of the tempting Petit Four series, German watchmaker
Nomos Glashütte is sure to whet your horological appetite
By Aditi Batra
Nomos Glashütte, the German brand first came under the
spotlight, when it made a path-breaking debut with a freshfaced
collection designed by Susanne Günther, reflecting
the Bauhaus purist style. Nomos believes that ‘if you wear
a watch, you look at it 30 times a day, or more’. Abiding
by this philosophy, they strive to ‘ensure that even the
300,000th glance at your wrist brings you joy’. Though the
brand is already over 25 years old, it has freshness sculpted
all over it. Be it the minimalist design, accessible in-house
movements or collaborations with designers from outside
the watch world, Nomos has cultivated a worldwide appeal
and charisma with their vivid collections.
Nomos’ new series of watchmaking delicacies, the Petit
Four, are hugely evocative of the much-loved French bitesized
sweet treats and a delightful indication of the start of
spring. Taking their classic Tetra models a notch ahead, this
delectable series includes four versions: Grenadine, Pearl,
Azure and Matcha. Though eye-candy isn’t all they offer.
TETRA TIDBITS
Breaking from the conventional norms, the Tetra collection
is epitomised by square watches that are daring, and
straightforward. More like a tweaked version of the round
Tangente—Nomos’ archetypal watch—its typography is
only similar, as the sans-serif numerals lend a modern look.
Interestingly, Tetra watches have a slender appearance but
are still robust and edgy. Nomos, since its inception, has
been setting trends vis-à-vis its novel design principles,
refined creativity and inventive watchmaking techniques.
THE INGREDIENTS OF THE PETIT FOUR
Not one to shy away from experimenting, Nomos
introduced four beautiful delicacies at this year’s Baselworld
in Switzerland. Forming a beautiful and very contemporary
quartet are grenadine red, pastel pink, azure blue and
matcha green, complemented by grey velour leather straps.
The stable 29.5mm cases, with clean lines, vibrant dials and
fun fonts, are powered by manual-winding movements.
All these enticing new delights from the Nomos
Glashütte watchmaking workshops have a story to tell.
Inspired by pomegranates, the Tetra Grenadine watch’s
recipe for success is a harmonious contrast of a ruby-red
dial, dark red indexes and gold-plated hands. Another
irresistible timepiece is the Tetra Pearl that features a
powdery pink dial, gold-plated hands, accompanied by
indexes in violet and a striking dark red seconds hand.
A sure-shot cure to the Monday blues is the Tetra
Azure. Akin to a clear summer sky, this watch radiates
joy and embraces every single day confidently. Paired with
the beautiful blue—a very contemporary colour on the dial
of the classic Tetra model—are the green hands and dark
red seconds hand. The fourth in the Petit Four series, the
Tetra Matcha immediately catches the eye with a dial in a
delicate tea green colour, featuring rhodium-plated hands
and a dark red seconds hand. With exciting, contrasting
shades in their typography and accentuated tones of silver
and gold in the hands, these watches serve
as the perfect accompaniment to spring
sunshine, flowers and the best of moods.
SERVED WITH FLAIR
Whipped up for newer palates, these
thin square beauties are powered by
the hand-wound calibre Alpha, which
is the most produced movement in the
Glashütte workshops. Nomos’ numero uno
movement, the Alpha is robust, accurate
and reliable and ticks inside the Tangente,
Ludwig, Tetra, Orion, Club and all the
watches in the 33 series of the brand.
This Nomos hand-wound calibre,
which has become a highly praised
classic, can be glimpsed through the
sapphire crystal glass back in two of the
four watches. On the other hand, Tetra
Matcha and Tetra Azure offer space for
a personalised engraving—a love note or
a reminder of a happy memory—on their
stainless steel backs. Every individual
movement is adjusted in six positions and
features Glashütte ribbing, tempered blue
screws and Nomos perlage.
In the midst of receiving accolades
and acclaim in its journey of innovation,
the consistency of the brand has remained
relentlessly the same, which is praiseworthy.
Nomos is one brand that is so obsessed
with perfection and has such a knack for
detail that there is not a single component
that would irk the watch beholder. Nomos
ably delivers precision, aesthetics and
performance time and again, all without
burning a hole in one’s wallet.
The Nomos Tetra
Petit Fours are
also available with
casebacks that can
be engraved upon
Starts at ` 1,61,900
. 86 .

Best of 2018
fancy
A FLIGHT OF
Heralded for its outstanding aesthetic appeal and equally
impressive technical excellence, Corum is a world of
watchmaking in itself. In 2018, the brand revealed its
new Golden Bridge Round 39—a gem-set rendition of
its spellbinding in-line baguette movement series
By Sumita Bagchi
The Corum Golden
Bridge Round 39
diamonds comes with a
red or blue leather strap
Starts at ` 57,92,000
Celebrating the real hero in a timepiece,
Corum resolutely puts the spotlight at
the heart of the watch—the beating watch
movement that powers its timepieces—
in its emblematic Golden Bridge series.
Launched in 1980, the manufacture broke
all watchmaking records by bringing to
life the now legendary linear baguette
movement. Avant-garde technology and
aesthetic prowess led to the creation of a
watch movement placed in the centre of a
transparent sapphire crystal case, and not
hidden behind a dial.
The fascinating invention was the
brainchild of Vincent Calabrese who
wanted to woo watch connoisseurs by
giving them a glimpse into the most
noteworthy technological marvel—the
manual-winding watch movement.
The result was a movement that had as
few direct connections with the case as
possible, albeit the namesake bridge,
establishing itself as the purest expression
of mechanical watchmaking.
A TOUR DE FORCE
Ever since, the Golden Bridge has spawned
numerous different versions, including
ladies’ models, an automatic linear-winding
baguette movement that used a platinum
oscillating weight, as well as titanium and
ceramic versions. In 2016, Corum pushed
the envelope further by breaking away
from the original Art Deco and tonneau or
rectangular codes and launched the very
first Golden Bridge baguette movement in
an elegant, round case.
Cut to 2018, Corum continues its
horological mastery by bringing together
jewellery, watchmaking and architecture
in the latest Golden Bridge Round
39. A bridge between haute joaillerie
and contemporary watchmaking, this
timepiece is studded with high jewellery
lacework gem-setting that vividly brings to
life the stunning geometrical effects of how
a horizontal movement composed within a
round case can create visual delight. With
a scintillating array of diamonds set in a
round, 39mm case, the unique architecture
features a juxtaposition of shapes. The
half-moons on either side of the horizontal
baguette movement illuminate with
bejewelled lacework.
ALL THAT GLITTERS
Taking centre stage is the lacework microstructure that
has been stretched out alongside the movement and
the marquise-cut stones that light up the dial, giving the
impression that rays of light are emanating from the
movement and radiating out toward the case. The openworked
dial allows one to gaze at the beauty of each and
every stone that sparkles differently, depending on the
angle, nature and intensity of the light that is cast on it.
Available in white gold and pink gold, the entirely
paved dial, bezel and lugs feature 76 Wesselton diamonds
on the case, 12 marquise-cut diamonds and 24 round-cut
diamonds on the microstructure, as well as 46 round-cut
diamonds on the bridges of the microstructure and 60
diamonds on the flange, for a total of 6.41 carats. For a dash
of added elegance, the mainplate and bridges in gold are
engraved with the Corum logo, surrounded by scrolling
arabesque motifs. This watchmaking piece of art is powered
by a mechanical, hand-wound calibre CO113 and can last
for up to 40 hours.
Take your pick from the variations of this show-stopping
jewelled timepiece. The sumptuous variants not only add
sparkle with diamonds, sapphires, rubies, tsavorites and
amethysts, but also illuminate the inner beauty of a craft
that continues to shape the watch world.
. 88 .

Best of 2018
The Ulysse Nardin
Classico Jade is available
with a blue, white or
deep red strap, with
certain versions featuring
diamond-paved bezels
Starts at ` 4,96,800
bejewelled
tHE
Go from nine-to-five to the bejewelled side of time,
with the signature swirls of the Ulysse Nardin Classico
Jade watches, now in a new edition that is more
wearable than ever before
By Ranvijaysinh Jhala
side
Although they are known for their Marine
chronometers and Diver collection of
watches, Ulysse Nardin isn’t just about
timepieces inspired by the ocean. Of
course, there’s the Freak, a baffling series of
watches that play with the movement being
in the timekeeping hands, and there are the
stunning minute repeaters from their Classic
collection. However, aside from these gems
of haute horlogerie, the respected Swiss
watch manufacturers also have perfectly
good everyday contemporary as well as
classical watches from their Executive and
Classic collections. The latest among these
are the Classico Jade timepieces for women.
THE NEW JADE
First introduced in 2013, the Jade series was a
tribute to the eponymous gemstone. It was a
collection of watches in an oval shape, mostly
paved with diamonds on the bezel and often
seen in gold. More of a dress watch then, the
series has evolved this year to become more
wearable even during the day. Presented in a
new, 37mm round case in steel, the diamonds
on the bezel have gone in some variations.
The clear steel bezel options of this watch are
available with white or blue leather straps,
with numerals in grey and blue respectively,
while the paved bezel options include a deep
red strap version, aside from the blue and
white. All variations come fitted with the
in-house, self-winding mechanical calibre
UN-815, which offers a significant power
reserve of 42 hours.
A SWIRL AROUND TIME
In terms of design, the most integral part
of the original Classico Jade is very much
retained in this new edition, in the form of a
metallic swirl, covering largely the lower-left
quadrant of the mother-of-pearl dial. With
10 diamonds on them, the elegant swirls
also seemingly demarcate the hour markers
from six to eight o’clock from the other nine
Arabic numerals on the dial. Six, seven and
eight are even differentiated in colour in the
blue and red versions, while in all models,
there are lines that emphasise the swirl
pattern. Interestingly, it’s the nine-to-five
hour markers that have been kept separate,
possibly a reference to the timepiece being
ideal as a nine-to-five watch, which can also
go from day to evening, as you switch your
focus to the bejewelled side of time.
LA PAPILLON
magnifique
The new Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31, in the
updated Oyster case, with an advanced mechanism,
and the gorgeous gem-set decoration with mother-ofpearl
butterflies, is sure to set anyone’s heart aflutter
By Ranvijaysinh Jhala
The Rolex Oyster
Perpetual Datejust
31, 2018 edition
Price on request
There are a few brands in the world that most others aspire
to be. When it comes to watches, there’s no doubt that that
brand is Rolex. From being the most recognisable name in
timekeeping to being a symbol with the highest aspirational
value, Rolex moved up the ranks in the world of timekeeping
with its incredible pioneering spirit, with many world firsts,
such as the first waterproof wristwatch. Today, we have
perpetual calendars, which never need to be corrected, but
there was a time when the date on a watch couldn’t change
by itself at all. And Rolex gave us that, in 1945, with the very
first Datejust.
AN ICON FOR LADIES
Initially, the Datejust was only available in a case size of
36mm. Over the years, various other sizes have been added
to the range, including the smaller Lady-Datejust, introduced
first in the late ’50s. The latest Datejust for ladies is in 31mm.
While there are versions in white and yellow gold, the
standout from the latest series is this piece in Everose gold,
Rolex’s very own pink gold alloy. An important upgrade in
this version of the Datejust is the updated Oyster case—a
symbol of water resistance—now with redesigned sides and
lugs. On the case is a stunning diamond-studded bezel.
BEJEWELLED BRILLIANCE
Within the diamond-paved bezel is the biggest highlight of
this timepiece—its diamond-encrusted dial, with a fluttering
of pretty butterfly silhouettes in pristine white mother of
pearl. While not known primarily for their jewelled watches,
Rolex has the know-how to make stunning jewellery
timepieces. With an in-house team of gemmologists, who
literally handpick the stones used in the watches, there’s no
way that any gem on a Rolex watch won’t be of the highest
standard. Expert gem-setters perform the high-skill task of
placing and fixing the stones on the various components—be
it the bezel or trickier areas, such as the space between the
butterfly wings. Their thorough work ensures that even the
most heavily embellished pieces are robust and sturdy, with
minimum risk of any gemstone coming loose. The advanced
equipment used, which can provide X-ray imaging, helps to
verify the authenticity of the stones.
In addition to the marvellous gem-setting, the
iridescence and pink hues of the mother-of-pearl butterflies,
perfectly complement the Everose pink gold case. Enhancing
the look of the watch is the prestigious three-link President
bracelet, which Rolex only ever makes in gold or platinum.
Even with perfection in its decoration and form, this
radiant jewellery watch is far from falling behind on the
technical front. The Datejust 31 is equipped with the Rolex
in-house calibre 2236 for the first time. This new generation
movement incorporates a patented Syloxi hairspring in
silicon, and runs efficiently as it offers a power reserve of
approximately 55 hours. With all three boxes—design, build
and performance—ticked, this watch could easily be deemed
the best in its category this year.
. 90 .

Best of 2018
THE FORMULA
FOR
femininity
TAG Heuer is a dynamic brand that is synonymous with
thrill, adventure and a glittering array of popular brand
ambassadors. Despite being over 150 years old, the brand
has a youthful spirit that they keep alive especially through
the adrenaline-infused timepieces they make and their
power-packed appeal. This is true even among the dressier
and more feminine products that they create. We take a look
at the latest edition of one of their signature timepieces. The
new and updated Formula 1 Lady made quite a buzz with
its sassy style and exemplary functionality.
THE NEW FORMULA
Pulling at the heartstrings of their female fans is the
glamorous TAG Heuer Formula 1 Lady—the brand’s bold
answer to the demands of the modern globetrotting woman
living life in the fast lane. Redesigned for the stylish women
on the go, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Lady is a vivacious
take on the glamour quotient of the motor-racing world—a
timepiece that embodies a seamless mix of sport and
lifestyle to transition from office to leisure, and day to night.
Elegant yet trendy, the collection is a reinterpretation of
its famous collection with an all-new series of completely
redesigned watches that come in sleek, colourful avatars
with interchangeable straps.
Aimed at matching the myriad moods and emotions
of women, the new collection features a new shape, new
materials, new dials, and new straps, while bearing all
the hallmarks of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 series. With
personalisation being the order of the day, this collection
comes as a breath of fresh air for women, who can
effortlessly switch from sporty to classic in no time with the
quick-release clasp that allows you to swap straps at ease.
From classic colours like brown, blue, white, black to bold
red and pop pink to pretty pastels in leather, or in metal,
you are sure to be spoilt for choice in materials and colours.
With the case in polished and brushed steel and an elegant
diameter of 32mm or 35mm, the refined curves of the case
and lugs are what lend an unabashed feminine twist in
a sporty way.
FUNCTIONALITY MEETS
ELEGANCE
What seals the deal, however, is the unique
diamond-studded bezel that incorporates
the collection’s characteristic codes and
the extraordinary double-plate system
on the dial. To add the unique touch of
TAG Heuer expertise and avant-garde
technology to this upbeat collection is the
attention to detail that this new mechanism
brings along. Keeping comfort and easy
manoeuvring in mind for their übermodern
woman patrons, the double-plate
system not only improves readability and
creates an interplay of colours, but also
adds an interesting touch of contrast to
up your sartorial game. The silver-plated
dial comes in an option resolutely set with
diamonds for a dash of glamour.
Powered by a quartz movement and
protected by scratch-resistant sapphire
crystal, this watch is the perfect precision
timepiece to keep up with your style
quotient at any hour of the day. So, ladies,
feast your eyes on the mother-of-pearl dial
and stunning diamond version, and get
ready to flaunt a piece of the racing world,
making fashion goals a reality!
The options
available among
the interchangeable
straps of the new
TAG Heuer Formula
1 Lady will leave you
spoilt for choice
` 1,46,000
With its interchangeable straps, the new Formula 1 Lady is an updated line
for feminine sophistication, while retaining the watchmaking goodness and
sporty appeal of the motor-racing-inspired collection
With personalisation being the order of
the day, this collection comes as a breath
of fresh air for women, who can effortlessly
switch from sporty to classic in no time
with the quick-release clasp that allows
you to swap straps at ease.
By Sumita Bagchi
. 92 .

Best of 2018
THE AVIATION
ADVANCEMENT
For those who are not quite fans of Breitling’s sharp evolution as seen in the
Navitimer 8, fear not, as the Navitimer 1 is still very much a part of the brand’s
offering, with only the updates necessary for a new edition. Here is the new
Navitimer 1 B01 Chronograph 43
By Ishani Sirohi
Breitling’s most recognised collection since 1952, the
Navitimer is back this year, playing to the tune of any
Breitling enthusiast’s desires. While the Navitimer 8 is
the first collection under the leadership of Georges Kern,
Breitling’s new CEO, the Navitimer 1 reflects his future
brand strategy. The exclusion of the slide rule from the
Navitimer 8 may have received mixed reactions, but the
Navitimer 1 B01 Chronograph 43 retains the signature
bidirectional rotating bezel and slide rule. Exuding the
aesthetics of a sporty timepiece and the technical prowess
of a complex instrument, the new Navitimer collection is
befitting for new-age pilots and aeronautics enthusiasts.
The new edition though is more streamlined in terms of
variations. “It’s symbolic of what we’re doing with all
the Breitling collections—cutting down the number of
references—to break through the clutter,” explains Guy
Bove, Breitling’s creative director.
The Breitling Navitimer
1 in steel (left) and
red gold (top right)
Starts at ` 5,59,460
A LEGENDARY DESIGN
Exemplifying quintessential Navitimer aesthetics, the
collection effortlessly recreates the Breitling watches
produced between the ’30s and ’70s under Willy Breitling,
which Bove terms as, “Tool watches that were so elegant
that they almost looked like dress watches.” Created in
four exquisite variations, the first watch has an 18-carat
red gold case. Another is a combination of stainless steel
and 18-carat red gold. Both come with black alligator
leather straps. The first of the stainless steel variations
has a silver dial and the ageless Navitimer steel bracelet,
while the other model has a gorgeous blue dial with a black
alligator leather strap. All the models in this edition feature
distinctive ‘panda’ or ‘inverse panda’ dials, which have
contrasting sub-dials. As Bove declares, “Now onwards,
contrasting sub-dials and a polished bezel will be an
indicator of the watch housing a manufacture movement.”
The baton indexes, hour and minute hands are infused
with SuperLuminova.
HIGH FUNCTIONALITY
Despite the dial being busy, it is quite legible, and
expectedly so from such a high-tech instrument wristwatch.
At the dial’s periphery is the slide rule ring that turns in
tandem with the bidirectional, fluted bezel. By combining
the bezel, slide rule and chronograph features, the watch
becomes an analogue wizard that can perform a plethora of
functions, ranging from serving as a compass to performing
currency conversion, calculating ground speed, the rate of
climb or descent, elapsed time and more. Protecting the dial
and adding to the superior use of elements that Breitling is
renowned for is the sapphire, double antireflective glass over
the dial, apart from the sapphire crystal
caseback. Kern’s influence is palpable in
the bold 43mm case that has quite a visual
impact.
UNBEATABLE PERFORMANCE
An emblem of reliability integrated in the
Navitimer is the COSC-certified, in-house
manufactured movement, the Breitling
calibre 01. Breitling is one of the few elite
Swiss watchmakers who manufacture
movements. The self-winding mechanical
movement operates at 28,800vph, with a
70-hour power reserve, churned out from
a flat mainspring and a single barrel,
displaying the brand’s technical knowhow.
The brilliance of the column wheel
movement is also well encapsulated in its
aesthetics including the Côtes de Genève
and highly polished bevels. With the slide
rule intact and classic aviation in its DNA,
the Navitimer 1 is certainly meant to please
Breitling devotees.
. 94 .

Best of 2018
STRIPPED DOWN WITH
CERAMIC
Celebrated for bringing about unparalleled mechanical revolutions, Swiss
watch brand Rado introduced a slew of new path-breaking timepieces in
their 2018 collection that have generated tremendous buzz. These include
the stunning HyperChrome Skeleton Automatic Chronograph
By Aditi Batra
Erstwhile known as the Schlup & Co. watchmaking factory,
Rado was originally founded in 1917 by brothers, Fritz,
Ernst and Werner in a converted part of their parents’
home. Operating out of this unassuming atelier in Lengnau,
Switzerland, Rado watches began to be sold in the 1950s
with the iconic Golden Horse collection marking its debut
in 1957. A decade later, the factory became one of the
largest producers of watch movements in the world and
Rado transformed into an internationally lauded brand
with a powerful presence in over 61 countries.
The brand set several new precedents in the 1960s, with
the introduction of one of its most legendary models: the
DiaStar 1. Widely acclaimed as ‘the world’s first scratchresistant
watch’, the DiaStar 1 brought hardmetal and
sapphire crystal into the watchmaking world when it was
completely unheard of. In 1986, the Rado Integral brought
the use of scratch-resistant high-tech ceramic in the bracelet
to the forefront. These timepieces exemplified the brand’s
remarkable design and material philosophy, groundbreaking
techniques and novel approach to watchmaking.
Rado innovates with
ultra-light, high-tech
ceramic in the new
HyperChrome Skeleton
` 4,24,700
AN UNABASHED BEAUTY
In focus this year at Baselworld was a highly resilient
substance called ultra-light, high-tech ceramic, with its
hardiness, visual impact and lightweight property making
it an exceptional material. Rado continued to play on its
strengths with the assimilation of high-tech ceramic—
the brand’s signature material since it underwent the
‘ceramic revolution’ in the ’90s—in the newly introduced
HyperChrome Skeleton Automatic Chronograph.
Awarded for its design credo time and again, Rado’s
visionary research and cutting-edge material technology
are what make it stand apart. As it is with high-tech
ceramic watches, the HyperChrome Skeleton is lightweight,
hypoallergenic and incredibly comfortable. Endowed with
gentle glamour, this timepiece sports a stark yet subtle look.
The spectacular new 45mm open-worked HyperChrome
chronograph watch, displaying a black oscillating rotor,
is encased in matte black, high-tech ceramic and is offset
by a polished, black bezel with an engraved tachymeter,
filled with white lacquer. Lending a bold appearance are the
rhodium-coloured hands and black applied indexes with
black veneer and white SuperLuminova.
A polished, black, high-tech ceramic
bracelet with matte black middle links
reiterate the HyperChrome Skeleton
Automatic Chronograph’s sturdiness
and style. Fitted with the ETA 2894-2
movement, this watch offers a 42-hour
power reserve and water resistance to
100m. Transparency and a high level of
readability being key focus points, the
HyperChrome Skeleton is definitely an
eye-catching and impactful watch, limited
to only 600 pieces.
ONE MILESTONE TO THE NEXT
With a long, enviable design heritage of
continually introducing the unexpected into
Swiss watchmaking, Rado has managed to
perfect the art of blending together oldschool
aesthetics with modern innovation.
Over 50 years ago, Rado went down in
history as the watchmaker that created
the world’s first scratch-resistant watch, the
DiaStar 1. Since then, the brand has been
attaining one milestone after another, truly
revolutionising the watchmaking industry.
. 96 .

Best of 2018
DIVING
DEEP
Offering water resistance to
1km, the new Ulysse Nardin
Diver Deep Dive is a perfect
technical tool, with the
assurance of reliability that
comes with the reputation
of the brand that has been
a leader in the making of
high-performing and robust
marine chronometers
By Mitrajit Bhattacharya
A highly
professional diving
instrument, the
Diver Deep Dive
boasts of a water
resistance of 1,000m
` 8,64,000
Ulysse Nardin’s relationship with the marine world is deeprooted,
having created legendary marine chronometers
that are among the most reliable and still sought after
by collectors. These complicated tools were essential
navigational instruments that helped sailors calculate
longitudes by means of celestial navigation. They are still
considered as the most accurate timekeeping devices ever
produced. Founded in 1846, Ulysse Nardin, based in the
prominent Swiss watchmaking centre of Le Locle, was
acquired by luxury group Kering in November 2014 with
a new CEO, Patrick Pruniaux, on board since last year.
These recent changes have further reinforced the resolve
of the brand to continue writing new chapters in its quest
for horological excellence centred on the Diver collection—
a key pillar of Ulysse Nardin’s product strategy.
A DEEPER LOOK
This year, Ulysse Nardin stunned watch enthusiasts with
the launch of the highly professional diving instrument and
a technically sound sports watch, the Diver Deep Dive,
which boasts of a water resistance of 1,000m. The watch
is a robust, functional, technically sound diving gadget,
which is resolutely masculine too. To elaborate on the look,
there is a lot happening in this charmingly extravagant
watch—on the dial, case, and the crown as well. The Diver
Deep Dive is housed in a 46mm case, and thanks to the
use of titanium, the overall weight is down to manageable
levels. At nine o’clock, the watch has an automatic, screwon
decompression valve system, which simply refers to the
helium escapement valve (HEV) that helps release helium
gas from inside a watch for deep dives of prolonged periods
under saturation. This is an absolute necessity for watches
meant for dives to great depths.
UNDERWATER ADVANTAGE
At two o’clock, a large screw-down crown, sporting a red
rubber ring, sits beneath a proportionately large fold-over
crown guard. Engraved with ‘1000M’ in red on its front
surface, the crown guard also carries the decoration of a
hammerhead shark motif on its side. At the other end of
the crown guard is an engraved limited edition number,
also in red. The rubber strap has an expandable element
that adjusts to changes in wrist size during dives, caused
by the compression of the diver’s suit. The robust, angularshaped
case is in titanium, with cut-edged horns. The large
bezel is easy to operate with its 12-notched teeth, even while
wearing diving gloves.
The navy blue dial is where the real drama is,
embossed with 15 silhouettes of hammerhead sharks. The
applied hour markers are large and luminous, and the
hands skeletonised, while a large, off-centred, small seconds
sub-dial at five o’clock, also carrying its own hammerhead
design, tracks the seconds by means of a tiny, luminous red
hand. At the three o’clock position is the circular, blackon-white
date window. Legibility is extremely crucial in a
diver’s watch, and the Ulysse Nardin Diver
Deep Dive clearly delivers on that front.
DEEP IN TIME
Continuing on the tradition of incorporating
in-house movements in diver’s timepieces,
Ulysse Nardin introduces in the Diver
Deep Dive the in-house calibre UN-320—
a movement that has a patent for its silicium
lever and escape wheel configuration.
The balance spring is also in silicium, a
material Ulysse Nardin first introduced
to fine watchmaking in the early 2000s.
Better resistance to magnetism, better rate
stability, and greater efficiency in energy
delivery to the balance are the three most
essential and significant benefits of using
these high-tech materials. Today, many fine
watchmaking brands have adopted silicium
as their first choice of material used for the
springs in their high-end models.
Now, about the 1km water resistance—
it is way beyond the official world record
diving depth of 701m. This feat of a watch
comes in a limited series of 300 pieces.
Though a bit too edgy and a bit too big
for many, this ultimate technical tool is
meant for those who seek extravagant and
bold designs in their timepieces. I don’t
see actual divers taking this watch to real
depths of the sea, but the hammerhead
sharks will certainly remind them of the
environment 1,000m below the surface!
. 88 .

Best of 2018
MEMORIES
OF THE
OCEAN
From the masters of ‘extreme conditions’ watches comes
another baffling new timepiece that can measure with
great accuracy the depth of 120m, with mechanical
memory to record diving accomplishments
By Ranvijaysinh Jhala
The all-new
Raider Bathy 120
MemoDepth draws
significantly from
the original Favre-
Leuba Bathy of 1968
` 6,01,000
One of the oldest brands of high-end timepieces, Favre-
Leuba is today 281 years old, and every watch they create is
heavily informed by the strong and vast legacy that is their
foundation. “Since 1737, Favre-Leuba has always been known
for leading technological developments and for a distinctive
design language. Following along the brand’s vision and
product strategy, keeping the brand fresh is not very difficult,”
says Patrick Kury, the brand’s chief technical officer. “What
we design and launch are watches that no other brand has.
The true challenge is working on technology that is relevant
to the customers, and will prove to be useful, adding value to
their lives.”
PLUNGING INTO GREATER DEPTHS
The second oldest Swiss watch brand in the world, Favre-
Leuba is known to push boundaries with their innovative
spirit. This year’s special editions are no different. The allnew
Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth draws significantly from
the original Favre-Leuba Bathy of 1968 when the vision of
the perfect diver’s timepiece saw fruition. The Bathy was the
first wristwatch with a membrane and a central hand, which
together ensured the most accurate measuring of depth at
the time. This year, the brand has chosen to mark the 50th
anniversary of that watch, with a new Bathy that takes design
cues from its 1968 predecessor, but incorporates a whole new
mechanism, making for improved functionality.
IN DEEP DETAIL
“As we started the new Bathy, we first analysed the original
watch and it was impressive to learn how smart and elaborate
the construction of the case was,” explains Kury. “A chamber
in the caseback gets flooded and deforms a membrane with
the rising water pressure.” The new Bathy also follows this
same working principle. The chamber at the back is isolated
completely from the main movement, as it invites water inside.
With the compression of a specially designed membrane as the
water pressure increases, there is a reaction on a mechanical
contact sensor inside the watch, and this information is
presented on the depth gauge. Dive depths down to 120m can
be measured with absolute accuracy, as a mechanical depth
memory records the maximum depth, which stays on the
display until the reset button at four o’clock is pushed.
All of this is housed within a generous, 48mm case in
titanium, water resistant to 200m, and equipped with an
external unidirectional rotating dive bezel, with an anodised
aluminium insert, which can help you keep track of the dive
time. The dial offers ultimate clarity and legibility even
underwater in low light. The watch is powered by the FL321
manual-winding mechanical movement, offering a 65-hour
power reserve, indicated at 12 o’clock.
With this watch, the brand once again proves that the
value of its legacy can only grow stronger, as it inspires
outstanding innovations that scale new heights or explore
new depths.
LA DOLCE VITA
RETURNS
Avowed as a watch collector’s delight, Corum’s most
Italian of creations, Romvlvs, makes a comeback this
year in an exclusive limited edition of just 25 pieces
created as an anniversary edition
By Sumita Bagchi
The new
Romvlvs features
a smoky quartz
sapphire dial
` 38,47,000
If crafting dreams and turning them into reality is what you
seek, look no further than the Swiss heritage brand Corum,
nestled in the picturesque La Chaux-de-Fonds in the Jura
Mountains, to realise your timekeeping desires. With an
eye to the future and a strong brand identity at heart,
Corum builds on its existing pillars of watch collections
with an unequivocal passion to up the ante every year.
THE PIÈCE DE RÉSISTANCE
An envious gaze, an object of desire—the all-new Romvlvs
44 Annual Calendar is a creative masterstroke done right in
2018. Capturing the spirit of Italian la dolce vita, the sporty
yet glamorous timepiece in a majestic
44mm case, is accentuated with nuanced
pink gold, and a daring move to have the
gold hour markers embedded directly
into the sporty rubber bezel. This is what
makes it a stunning pièce de résistance for
anyone who screams attention with their
bold sartorial choices.
Notwithstanding the fleeting
watchmaking trends, the distinctive sign
of the Romvlvs 44 Annual Calendar is
a modern take on design and technical
advancements that appeals with not just
its feisty choice of colour, but also the
mischievous smoky quartz sapphire dial.
Its transparency reveals the mechanical
calibre that is kitted out with a retrograde
annual calendar display. Reminiscent of
the classic Romvlvs editions, this watch
also houses the essence of the original
Romvlvs, the famous CO502 calibre,
beating at 28,800vph and a lasting power
reserve of over two days (55 hours) to keep
you going effortlessly in style.
AN ODE TO CREATIVITY
The enigmatic, unconventional translucent
dial features hour and minute, seconds,
day, month and retrograde date functions.
Channelling the free-spirited creativity
of Corum into the future, the birth of
the original Romvlvs is a testament of an
accidental breakthrough, when Corum
received the dials for its new creation,
without the hour markers. To still meet
the Baselworld deadline, Corum founder
René Bannwart decided to have the hour
markers engraved directly on the bezel,
and the rest, as they say, is history.
It is indeed through this ode to
creativity that Romvlvs was born to chart
new frontiers and has ever since been a
huge success among watch aficionados the
world over. The 2018 piece is an exclusive
limited edition of just 25 units created as
an anniversary edition—since the original
was released in 2008—aimed at collectors
who swear by fine craftsmanship and
artful elegance à la mode. To keep things
authentically Italian, the back of the piece
also reveals the watchwords of the Romvlvs:
‘URBS’ (‘city’ in Latin) and ‘ROMA’ as
well as the profile of a legionnaire.
. 88 .

Best of 2018
TIME FOR YOUR
LIFE
A vision in grey, the Oris Source Of Life Limited Edition is not only a
sublime yet stunning timepiece, it is also one that represents a cause
meant to protect the one essential resource that we absolutely cannot
live without—water, the ultimate source of life
By Ranvijaysinh Jhala
There are those who believe that climate change is a hoax, and
then there are those who believe that it’s far from being a non-issue.
Wherever you stand on that front, one environment-related issue
that no one can deny is real is, sustainability. The search for and
use of alternative energy and fuel are obviously a massive priority
worldwide, but studies have shown that soon the more emergent
cause of concern will be the shortage of water. Environmentalists
and geographers have even gone so far as to say that it’s highly
likely that in a decade or so, the world’s biggest wars will be
fought over water. With the growing need for effective rainwater
harvesting and other clean water initiatives, the world has begun
to realise the importance of saving what we take for granted every
day. And among those spreading awareness about this cause, which
is about something so essential for life itself, is Oris, with their
special edition watch, the Source Of Life.
. 88 .

Best of 2018
Depicted on the caseback of the Oris Source Of Life watch is
the entire length of the Rhine, which covers 1,233km, and runs
through six countries before it opens up into the North Sea.
The Oris Source Of
Life aims at spreading
awareness about water
as a precious resource
` 1,58,000
SOURCE MATERIAL
Among initiatives like the Movember watch
of 2017, which was all about spreading
awareness on issues related to men’s health,
the new Source Of Life watch continues
the brand’s mission to advocate change.
This watch that celebrates the source of
life is inspired by the River Rhine that
flows through Switzerland, and close to the
village of Hölstein, which is the hometown
of Oris. Incidentally, the name Oris comes
from a nearby brook called Orisbach,
which feeds into the Rhine. This makes the
cause that Oris supports with this watch
even closer to the brand. Depicted on the
caseback of this watch though is the entire
length of the Rhine, which covers 1,233km,
and runs through six countries before it
opens up into the North Sea. The origin
of the Rhine—the Tomasee lake flowing
2,343m high up in the Swiss Alps—is also
the origin of the number of this limited
edition watch of 2,343 pieces.
DIVING FOR LIFE
Each of the watches in this limited edition
is set in a stainless steel case, 43.5mm in
diameter, and water resistant to 300m—
appropriate for a diver’s watch of this
standing. After all, the build and design
are based on the signature diver’s watch
from Oris, the Aquis. Keeping with that,
the unidirectional rotating bezel on the
steel case comes with a grey tungsten
insert featuring a 60-minute timer scale for
measuring a dive time.
Sealed within this diver’s case is an automatic movement,
the Oris calibre 733, based on a Sellita-made movement.
What’s most striking about this movement is its visual
presentation of the date. Interestingly reminiscent of a
river itself, there is a circular channel that runs around the
inner part of the dial, and a white marker flows through
it completely in a month, aligning with the date on each
day. Also sweeping around the dial is the sweeping seconds
hand with a SuperLuminova-filled ‘lollipop’ pointer. The
luminescent material is also seen on the hour indexes and
the central hour and minute hands on the dial in a unique
blue-grey hue. While legibility is obviously a requirement
underwater, so is comfort, and hence the steel bracelet or
rubber strap of this timepiece comes with a stainless steel
folding clasp that can be extended for it to fit easily even
over a wetsuit. For added durability, this watch comes
with domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, featuring an
antireflective coating.
As impressive as the aesthetics of this watch is the cause
it represents. Oris acknowledges that despite the efforts
being taken worldwide by governments and organisations,
water is still under an alarming threat, and it’s time for each
of us to do our bit. It’s time to stop neglecting pollution
and to stop wastage of a resource so precious. It’s time to
protect the source, it’s time for your life.
. 104 .

Best of 2018
THE WORLD’S FIRST
MECHANICAL
SMARTWATCH
The right mix of traditional horology and smart technology
take the Frederique Constant Hybrid a notch higher
By Ishani Sirohi
The newly launched Frederique Constant Hybrid
smartwatch is being touted as ‘the world’s first 3.0 watch’,
but one should not confuse the 3.0 as an update to a
predecessor. The 3.0 refers to the three technologies offered
in a single watch—mechanical timekeeping, smart features,
and calibre analytics. The watch comes as a treat for the
Swiss watch lover, who often laments over smartwatches
taking over the world of horology. By fusing a mechanical
movement with seamless electronic technology, the
Frederique Constant Hybrid bridges the gap between
smartwatches and mechanical watches.
Introducing it at Baselworld 2018, Aletta Stas-Bax,
co-president of Frederique Constant, explained what sets
the watch apart. “It’s really a world premiere because here
we mix the manufacture movement with smart functions,”
she said. “But when you see the watch, it looks like our
Manufacture watch.”
A STANDOUT SMARTWATCH
Frederique Constant has not broken out on the smartwatch
platform for the very first time. In fact, the brand had taken
the plunge with its first Horological Smartwatch when
Apple entered the scene and changed the way we perceived
smartwatches. The category has been tapped by notable
luxury watchmakers such as TAG Heuer, Montblanc, and
now even Hublot, but Frederique Constant takes charge in
terms of delivering a pioneering connected watch that also
offers mechanical timekeeping.
What makes the 3.0 an avant-garde smartwatch is the
mix of standout technologies that have been developed,
produced and assembled in-house in the patented Hybrid
Manufacture FC-750 calibre—a synthesis of the automatic
calibre with date, along with the electronic parts. Besides
regular smart features, there is a world timer that displays
both, the local 24-hour time and a second time zone. Though
the essence of the watch that contributes to the magnificent
3.0 are the proprietary ‘calibre analytics’. A futuristic inbuilt
function that monitors and displays the movement’s
rate, amplitude, beat error, if any, and showcases periodical
results in informative graphs via Bluetooth on the Hybrid
app. This path-breaking smartwatch features a patented
antimagnetic shield case to avert any negative magnetic
effects between the mechanical and the electronic parts.
A FUTURISTIC PRESENTATION
The Hybrid watch collection has been released in four
versions, one of which is a limited edition of 888 pieces.
The 42mm stainless steel case is a common feature in all
four models with the variation of rose gold plating on one,
while the dial colours include silver, navy and grey. The
black, brown, or dark blue alligator leather
straps lend a highly traditional look to
this smartwatch.
Running on a frequency of 28,800vph,
the Hybrid offers a 42-hour power reserve
for the mechanical movement, with a sevenday
battery life for the smart functions. The
watch and the Hybrid app can be connected
by the pusher button on the left-hand side
of the watch case. The guilloché dial has
a bicompax layout with an analogue date
display at six o’clock. While the hours are
denoted in Roman numerals, the hour and
minute hands are reminiscent of the Breguet
style. The elaborate perlage and Côtes de
Genève decoration on the movement is on
display owing to the see-through sapphire
crystal caseback. Even with the packaging,
Frederique Constant aces it, as the Hybrid
smartwatch comes in a box, which also
serves as the charger and a winder for the
mechanical movement.
The smart future of Frederique
Constant lies in the Hybrid. While the
brand has dabbled in the smartwatch
sphere before, nothing has ever been quite
as exceptional. The fusion of mechanical
and technical is perfectly embodied in this
timepiece that is sure to stand up to what
tech giants can offer.
Actor Mark Ruffalo
is the face of the brand
for the Frederique
Constant Hybrid
Starts at ` 2,60,000
. 106 .

Best of 2018
Tissot’s reputation as a pioneer in the field of watchmaking
stems from humble beginnings as the ‘Charles-Félicien
Tissot & Son’ assembly shop in Le Locle, Switzerland. Their
growing catalogue of pocket and pendant watches—mostly
in gold, richly decorated, or with complications—soon
gained popularity at exhibitions as well as chronometry
competitions. Early accomplishments included their
introduction of the first mass-produced pocket watch,
and the first pocket watch that showed two time zones.
Tissot even presented the world’s first anti-magnetic
watch—a timepiece that would function smoothly despite
any magnetic disturbances around it. Their innovative
repertoire also includes the production of the first watches
made of plastic, stone, mother of pearl, and wood.
FOR MOTOR RACING
ADDICTS
Exhibiting a relentless pioneering spirit, the Tissot T-Race MotoGP 2018 Automatic
Limited Edition is the Swiss watchmaker’s latest addition to its multifarious
associations with motor racing and other sports
By Aditi Batra
A SPORTS LINEAGE
Tissot has a long-standing history with sports. The
company’s first association with a sporting event was in
1938, when the brand acted as official timekeeper for a ski
racing event in Villar, Switzerland. A key sponsor for the
Formula One teams of Lotus, Renault and Sauber, Tissot
is also the official timekeeper and partner of FIBA, AFL,
MotoGP, FIM Superbike and the World Championships
of cycling, fencing and ice hockey. Over the years, several
key international figures, including Elvis Presley, Grace
Kelly and Nelson Mandela, have sported Tissot watches.
The brand also boasts of an impressive line-up of official
ambassadors that include MotoGP riders Marc Marquez,
Jorge Lorenzo and Thomas Lüthi.
AN AUTOMATIC WINNER
The brand’s association with sports has led to the creation of
timepieces specifically designed for sporting activities. Since
2001, the watchmaker has been releasing official limited
edition models as well as timing instruments. Such watches
are often worn by the riders for their personal references,
while each bike also has Tissot’s transponders installed.
A 2018 launch by Tissot is the bold and masculine
T-Race MotoGP 2018 Automatic Limited Edition watch.
The motorbike racing-inspired chronograph incorporates
the colours of MotoGP and Tissot with the overall black
look and striking red details. Its 45mm stainless steel round
case with black and rose gold PVD coating houses several
exciting elements for motorbike fans, such as the brakedisc
anticlockwise rotating bezel, the oscillating mass of
the automatic movement—which can be seen through the
caseback—with the lines illustrating tyre treads.
The 30-minute and six-hour counters, and the central
chronograph hand are positioned on the heavily detailed
anthracite dial. Completing the racy look are the pushers
on the side of the case resembling the footrests and the
black silicone strap that integrates a synthetic structure to
depict the rear suspension rods. Powered by
a Swiss automatic movement, this watch is
produced in an edition of only 3,333 pieces.
Expressing resilience through the eyecatching
design, this watch—presented in
a helmet box—is a true collector’s item for
motorbike fans.
COMMITTED TO INSPIRE
As the producer of reasonably affordable
watches for the hard-core speed-bike fans,
Tissot is setting new standards as well as
strengthening its core values of performance
and precision. From its foundation in the
small Swiss Jura town of Le Locle to earning
a presence in more than 150 countries, the
brand has acquired a relentless pioneering
spirit that is committed to inspire.
From the first pocket watch with two
time zones to its revolutionary tactile
T-Touch watches, Tissot has presented
a series of firsts in terms of technology,
materials and design. With a versatile range
of high-quality timepieces at prices more
attractive than most other Swiss brands,
Tissot also expresses its commitment to
making excellence accessible.
The new Tissot
T-Race MotoGP
Automatic comes in
a limited edition of
3,333 pieces
` 74,300
. 108 .

Best of 2018
structure is now known as a unique example of industrial
architecture on a sloping site and has become an important
landmark for both Junghans and Schramberg.
SCALING NEW
Known for its bold and beautiful timepieces, German watchmaker
Junghans is making a grand statement with its 2018 novelties, such as the
Max Bill, and giving the bigwigs of the watch world a reason to worry
By Aditi Batra
The ever-expanding German watch industry
that has brought major international
horological advances to the forefront has
its roots in the Black Forest, and Junghans
is one brand that has been a part of this
tradition for 156 years. Founded in the Black
Forest town of Schramberg, this multifaceted
watchmaker first opened its doors in 1861.
Before talking about their wide portfolio
of watches, it is pivotal to note how Junghans
stands apart in the world of architecture as
well. In 1918, Stuttgart industrial architect
Philipp Jakob Manz—under the commission
of Arthur Junghans, son of the brand’s
founder Erhard Junghans—designed a
terraced structure that ascends the Black
Forest slope in nine steps. Originally built so
unusually for reasons of space, the terrace
The Junghans Max Bill
2018 is inspired by the
eponymous legendary
Swiss architect
` 1,44,000
TURNING POINTS
With a 500-people strong workforce, Junghans initially
gained prominence for producing clock components such
as wooden cases, bronze signs and pendulums, pocket
watches, and later went on to manufacture wristwatches
and chronometers. Akin to the uniquely constructed terrace
structure of the company site, the watchmaker’s devotion
towards utmost precision and striking design is reflected in
their many milestones.
With over 3,000 employees, Junghans had become the
largest clock manufacturer in the world in 1903. In the 1950s,
they came to be known as the largest German manufacturer
of chronometers and the third largest worldwide. In 1972,
the brand was the official timekeeper of the Olympic Games
in Munich.
In 1990, Junghans attained greater heights with the
invention of the radio-controlled wristwatch functioning
on environment-friendly solar power. Today Junghans is
embodied by historic collections like Meister Pilot, Meister,
Meister Driver, Form, Radio Control & Solar, and Max Bill.
With a strong desire to forge a connection with the general
public, the watchmaker inaugurated the company museum
to mark the 150th anniversary of the watch factory in 2011.
A CELEBRATION OF DESIGN
The brand gained paramount recognition in 1961 when it
started working with one of the most influential Bauhaus
designers of the 20th century, Max Bill. The legendary Swiss
architect serves as an inspiration for the Junghans Max Bill
range of watches that borrow his name and enjoy a cult
status in today’s times.
More than 50 years ago, Max Bill designed a timepiece
for Junghans that went on to become a design icon. The Max
Bill 2018 edition has been given a contemporary touch while
retaining the minimalistic design that makes the collection
so distinctive. The balanced proportions and characteristic
numerals on the white dial are given a hint of colour with
a green date window positioned at three o’clock, which
matches the green stitching of the calfskin strap and its green
under-layer. On the caseback, the ‘sicherheit’ artwork of four
yellow, red, blue and green triangles formed into a square
pays a beautiful homage to the artist along with reflecting
the core motto of ‘form follows function’ in every detail. This
timepiece is powered by a quartz movement.
The Junghans brand has tasted huge success with its
inventive design philosophies, traditional workmanship
and avant-garde technology. Bearing the eight-point star
emblem, each Junghans watch is an expression of pure
passion and abounding energy.
. 110 .

Best of 2018
AMP UP THE
TANGO!
Continuing their collaborations with musicians and
manufacturers of musical instruments, the Raymond Weil
Tango Marshall, in partnership with Marshall amplifiers, is the
latest offering that is making a loud statement far and wide
By Mitrajit Bhattacharya
The dial resembles
the external grills
on Marshall’s
amplifiers, while the
43mm case exudes
sophistication in black
PVD-treated steel
` 1,18,800
One of the first Swiss majors to foray into the Indian market
in the 1990s, Raymond Weil has associations with many
fields, including music.
MUSICAL AT HEART
Raymond Weil has carved a niche for itself with music and
art owing to international partnerships with concert halls,
foundations dedicated to supporting the arts, prestigious
music awards, brands such as Gibson guitars, and maestros,
including The Beatles, Bob Marley, AC/DC, David Bowie,
to name a few. As a part of the Music Icons Series, Raymond
Weil announced a new collaboration with British amplifier
major, Marshall Amplification with the Tango
Marshall Limited Edition.
MAKE SOME NOISE
For musicians who perform on-stage, there
is nothing closer to them than amplifiers.
This new edition of the Tango pays tribute to
the best in the business. The bold aesthetics
of the Marshall Limited Edition features
a dial that resembles the external grills on
Marshall’s amplifiers, while the 43mm case
exudes sophistication in black PVD-treated
steel. The white ring around the dial mirrors
the finish of the Marshall amps.
The indices and hands are treated with
luminescent SuperLuminova, offering great
readability. The gold-coloured sub-dials are
inspired by the amplifiers’ sound buttons. The
timepiece is completed with a date display
positioned between four and five o’clock, while
the piece is fitted with a black leather strap and
a matching black PVD-treated folding clasp.
A MEMORABLE SOUND
The exclusive timepiece is limited to 1,000
pieces. The caseback is numbered and carries
the iconic Marshall logo. Presented with a
certificate of authenticity, the watch comes
in a custom-made box inspired by Marshall’s
signature aesthetics.
VINTAGE OOMPH AND
Pin-up girls oozing the ultimate oomph and vintage
charm, as popularised by decorative art on the
noses of World War II airplanes, feel right at home
on the aviation-inspired watches from Graham. We
present the Chronofighter Vintage Nose Art—yet
another bold offering from the Swiss watchmakers
By Ishani Sirohi
The newest pin-up girls
to grace the Nose Art
fleet are Belle, Lucia,
Linda and Chloé
` 4,09,000
Graham, a watchmaking brand known
for producing bold watches, with a unique
trigger, has struck the watch world again
with sheer creative aesthetics presented in
the Chronofighter series. Far from being shy
or conservative, Graham’s traits are truly
reflected in the Nose Art edition of their
Chronofighter Vintage watches. Each watch
features a pin-up model with bright red lips,
deep cleavage and cheerful poses; though all
are presented in good taste. The newest pinup
girls to grace the Nose Art fleet—Belle,
Lucia, Linda and Chloé—are more dynamic
than their predecessors and stir up a storm
with their alluring looks, idiosyncratic
dance poses, fluttering skirts and quirky
musical props.
POSES ON THE NOSES
Mirroring the nose art painted on the noses
of military planes during World War II, this
collection features glamorous ladies on sunbrushed
grey, blue or black vintage dials in a
44mm steel case, water resistant to 100m. The
large case features the quintessential, fastaction
start-stop trigger of the Chronofighter
collection, while the captivating dial comes
with the limited edition serial number at nine
o’clock, below the day and date windows.
There is also a small seconds counter at
three o’clock. Graham ensures the legibility
of the watch remains paramount and hence
the aesthetically antique timekeeping hands,
the numerals, and indexes are filled with
white SuperLuminova, while the central
chronograph hand is distinctive, courtesy a
red tip.
BEYOND THE PRETTY FACES
The collection, limited to 100 pieces per
version, is not just about good looks and
is powered by a superior G1747 automatic
chronograph calibre, except for the ‘Linda’
model, which is sans the small seconds
counter and runs on a G1745 calibre. The
solid movement allows a power reserve of
48 hours. Also reflective of their aviation
origins are the hand-sewn calf leather straps
in variations of brown, blue or black.
The Chronofighter Nose Art collection
is sure to lift the spirits of any watch
enthusiast with its charm, versatility and
whimsy nature. Even with all the art and
creativity, these Chronofighter pieces stay
true to the Graham DNA of being big, bold
and absolutely unique.
. 88 .

Best of 2018
RIDING WITH THE
REVERSO
The most iconic collection from Jaeger-LeCoultre pays tribute to
its equestrian roots, as the Swiss prestige watch manufacturer
collaborates with Casa Fagliano—the Argentinian leather artisans and
makers of premium riding boots—in a special edition Reverso Tribute
Duoface, available exclusively at Jaeger-LeCoultre boutiques
By Sumita Bagchi
There is hardly any other watch collection
that is as timeless as the Reverso from
Jaeger-LeCoultre. The brand pays a fitting
tribute to this timeless icon this year by
honouring the craftsmanship and artistry
that belies the world of the Jaeger-LeCoultre
Reverso watches—each resembling a fine
piece of art. Born in 1931 as a sports watch,
its characteristic swivelling reversible
case—designed specifically to be worn by
mounted polo players during matches—is
what made Reverso a true icon. Over the
years, the brand has recreated the classic
through various avatars of the Reverso
that highlight the brand’s expertise in
incorporating exclusive handcrafted works.
THE EQUESTRIAN ESSENCE
The latest timepiece to pay tribute to the sport of polo
is a new version of the Reverso Tribute Duoface, which
sports an exquisite Cordovan leather strap handmade by
Casa Fagliano, the Argentinian artisans behind some of
the world’s finest equestrian boots. Legendary, familyowned
boot-makers—established in 1892 and located
in Hurlingham—Casa Fagliano is patronised by polo
enthusiasts the world over. The partnership between Jaeger-
LeCoultre and Fagliano is a result of a shared passion for
expert craftsmanship, attention to detail and the pursuit
of perfection.
A REWARDING PARTNERSHIP
From the keepers of the fine arts of watchmaking and
handiwork, this partnership is an ode to Casa Fagliano’s
outstanding, traditional leather craftsmanship. This new
Reverso Tribute Duoface is limited to just 100 pieces and
is available exclusively at Jaeger-LeCoultre boutiques. The
vintage-style watch carries on the tradition of the Reverso
Tribute Duoface collection, introduced during the 185th
anniversary in 2016. As the name suggests, the watch
features two independent dials, each displaying a different
time zone, set in a case measuring 49.4mm by 29.9mm.
Perfectly complemented by the warm-toned pink gold case,
the pièce de résistance two-tone cordovan leather strap is
specially designed and handcrafted for each piece by the
leather artisans. The two-tone strap impeccably blends a
. 114 .

Best of 2018
THE FLYBACK
With hues that soothe the eyes, a classic
design with nuanced detail and an advanced
flyback chronograph mechanism, the latest
Manero Flyback from Carl F. Bucherer is
rather impressive
Carl F. Bucherer is the brand from the other side of
Switzerland, established in 1888 in Lucerne. Closer to Zurich
than the traditional watchmaking hub of Neuchatel, it has
always charted a different path over the years for its growth
as a fine watchmaker. Founder Carl F. Bucherer’s two sons
trained to be a watchmaker and a goldsmith respectively.
Today, the combination of these two artistic skills is seen in
the form of watches that are truly pieces of jewellery.
THE MANERO EVOLUTION
The word ‘manero’ is derived from the Latin term, manuaria,
meaning ‘that which is led by the hand’; aptly signifying the
brand’s fine watchmaking roots. The 2018 Manero Flyback
is the sixth addition to the collection, adding yet another
option for discerning fans of the Manero. It runs on the
robust flyback movement, the CFB 1970.
The Reverso Tribute
Duoface is an ode
to Casa Fagliano’s
traditional leather
craftsmanship
` 15,00,000
light brown shade for the main strap with a darker brown
shade on the turned-over flap attached to the case lugs and
features a tone-on-tone overstitching. What makes each
hand-crafted strap extraordinary is its own unique patina
and finishes lent by a painstaking handcrafting process.
FINE FINISHING
Bearing the hallmarks of the classic Reverso design, the two
contrasting dials are both equally refined, as each displays
a different time-zone. The dressy front dial features a slate
grey sunray finish, hand-applied hour markers that echo its
Dauphine hands, and a small seconds sub-dial at six o’clock.
The dial on the reverse of the case includes a day/night
indicator seamlessly set against a silvered dial, brought to
life by the juxtaposition of a Clous de Paris guilloché and
an opaline finish. The day/night indicator adds character
to the classic Art Deco design on this fascinating watch.
At the heart of this watch is the manual-winding Jaeger-
LeCoultre calibre 854/2, which runs at 21,600vph, and
offers a power reserve of 42 hours.
With the limited edition number ‘… of 100’ engraved
on its back, the exclusivity of this timepiece definitely
warrants a spot for it among your collector’s editions.
By Mitrajit Bhattacharya
The latest Manero
Flyback comes in a steel
case, with a black dial
and brown leather strap
` 4,16,000
THE FLYBACK DECONSTRUCTED
If chronographs are complications, flyback chronographs
are ‘super-complications’. Unlike regular chronographs,
where it is necessary to push the buttons three times—to
stop, reset, and restart—in order to measure successive time
intervals, the flyback function allows the user to operate
the chronograph without resetting it to zero every time.
The chronograph hands fly back to zero, while the wheels
continue to run in the background—allowing the hands to
resume as soon as the reset button is released.
Dating back to the 1930s, flyback chronographs
are complications only a handful of watchmakers have
mastered, and are mainly used by professionals such as
pilots, for whom every split-second is precious.
FUNCTIONAL SUPERIORITY
The new Manero Flyback comes in an elegant 43mm,
steel case. With a gleaming, black sunburst finish, the dial
features recessed, matte small seconds and stop minute subdials
at three and nine o’clock; along with lancet-shaped,
polished, steel-coloured hands and appliqué indices. The
other hands on the sub-dials of the watch are painted white,
matching the printed chapter ring and the tachymeter scale.
The appearance of the new model is rounded off with a dark
brown alligator leather strap.
The highly complex CFB 1970 chronograph movement
can be admired through the see-through sapphire crystal
caseback, oscillating at a frequency of 4Hz or 28,800
vibrations per hour. This automatic movement boasts of a
power reserve of 42 hours and features a flyback function
that allows for the recording of consecutive durations of time
in quick succession. The recording of short times operates
via a thermally blued gear wheel.
Incorporating the best proprietary watchmaking
technology, coupled with great and identifiable designs, this
new Manero Flyback will surely impress any beholder.
. 116 .

Best of 2018
ASTRONOMICALLY
Meistersinger stands out of the crowded playing field of watches as a
brand that has single-handedly proven its calibre. It has settled in the watch
connoisseur circuit with its unique aesthetics, and especially with its singlehand
watches. With the launch of the first astronomical watch this year, the
brand is sure to make a mark among value-driven timepieces in India
By Ishani Sirohi
This German ‘wunder’ watchmaker has
already established a niche image for itself
among the millennials as an über-cool
brand with traditions intertwined in all
their watch aesthetics. The 2018 novelties
from the brand are both functional and
aesthetically pleasing, specially designed
for those who want to solely keep track of
time, which is made possible by the single
timekeeping hand.
BACK TO BASICS
The brand has a unique, relaxed approach
that does not compromise on precision.
Manfred Brassler, founder and executive
partner of Meistersinger, explains, “The
DNA of the brand lies in going back to
the beginning of watchmaking, to make
a very simple watch that almost feels like
an instrument of measurement.” Sundials
and 18th century clock towers serve as
muses and the brand’s sole endeavour is
to reflect a ‘simple and primordial design’
with new-age technology and modern
fervour. These Swiss-made watches feel
like instruments minus the minute and
seconds hands. Among their 2018 offerings,
the Meistersinger Lunascope stands out in
particular for all the right reasons.
INGENIOUS WATCHMAKING
This year marks the launch of the first
astronomical watch from Meistersinger and
is a refreshing timepiece for watch collectors
and first-time watch owners alike. The
watch forms a new collection altogether, in
addition to the Classic Plus line-up, which
includes avant-garde collections like the
2018 Metris, Perigraph, Salthora Meta X
and Adhaesio. Striking a perfect balance
of poise and perfection, the 40mm stainless
steel case of the Lunascope has an uncanny
resemblance to the classic Pangaea
collection. The sleek and slender case is just
the apt size, neither too overbearing nor too
diminutive, making it comfortable to wear.
The Meistersinger
Lunascope is the
brand's first moon
phase watch
` 2,59,000
The watch is a visual treat as the top
half of the dial features an unusually
large moon phase display with the moon
evolving across a starry sky. A deep blue
dial serves as a pleasing backdrop for
the star-filled window.
The watch is a visual treat as the top half of the dial
features an unusually large but feisty moon phase display
with the moon evolving across a starry background. A
deep blue dial serves as a pleasing backdrop for the starfilled
window just below 12 o’clock and the moon plying
across the window elevates that imagery. The hours are
depicted in a 12-hour format encircled by 144 indexes,
which resemble a measuring tape.
PRECISE TO THE ‘T’
Meistersinger has taken a giant leap in terms of
astronomical technicalities in the watch world. The moon
cycle typically entails 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 2.9
seconds to circle the Earth. Watch brands generally round
off that figure to 29.5 days, which eventually leads to a
deviation of eight hours per year and the watch needs to be
corrected by one complete day every three years. However,
Meistersinger has incorporated cutting-edge technology in
the movement of the Lunascope ensuring that the moon
phase indicator is accurate for a whopping 128 years. At the
heart of the watch is an automatic ETA 2836 movement—
visible through the glass exhibition caseback—offering a
38-hour power reserve.
The Swiss-made Lunascope is available in two
versions—one with a dark blue sunburst dial to complement
the moon’s background and the other as a silver opaline
dial. Both have a circular date window at six o’clock. The
blue Lunascope sports a calfskin strap in cognac, while
the silver dial version exhibits a classic look, fitted with a
crocodile grain, deep brown leather strap.
Over 15 years, the brand has evolved and increased
its portfolio by leaps and bounds with an assorted mix of
single-hand watches. With the launch of their first moon
phase watch, Meistersinger joins the bandwagon of brands
that boast of exemplary watchmaking.
. 118 .

Best of 2018
THE TRUE
CALIBRE
The offspring of Japanese watchmaker Seiko, Grand Seiko reigned supreme
at this year’s Baselworld with new, mighty-powerful novelties that celebrate
the 20th anniversary of the legendary 9S mechanical calibre, in three
splendid versions
By Mitrajit Bhattacharya
The year 2018 happens to mark a major milestone in Grand
Seiko’s journey so far. This year, the brand celebrates the
20th anniversary of its legendary 9S mechanical calibre and
befittingly enough, it now features in three new 2018 watches,
with a revamped case and a unique dial. Interestingly, until
quite recently, the brand was not even being marketed
worldwide. It was only in 2011 that the brand decided to
branch out on a global scale. Since then, its journey has been
nothing but trailblazing.
HISTORY OF THE 9S CALIBRE
The development of the 9S calibre is the most significant
landmark in Grand Seiko’s history since 1960 when the brand
was formed. The principal objective of the new 9S calibre
is to deliver the high precision and excellent durability that
Grand Seiko is known for in the present. Since then, this
calibre has evolved continuously with the introduction of the
proprietary Spron alloy used for both the main and balance
springs as well as MEMS engineering—a technique that
allows key components as small as 1,000th of a millimetre to
be manufactured. Today, the 9S calibre forms the platform
on which the entire Grand Seiko mechanical movement is
built. It has been accepted as one of the best mechanical
calibres in the world, delivering precision with a long power
reserve due to their robust construction.
THE 20TH ANNIVERSARY TIMEPIECES
The first of the three limited edition pieces launched on the
20th anniversary brings back an old tradition of VFA in
platinum 950. VFA or ‘Very Fine Adjusted’ stands for high
precision and was first used in 1969. The name was accorded
to a Grand Seiko timepiece when it was adjusted so skilfully
that it far exceeded the standards of precision set for Grand
Seiko then. The team brings back the name on the landmark
20th anniversary, for nostalgic reasons.
The new 2018 creation continues the VFA tradition of
delivering high precision thanks to the Hi-beat 9S85 calibre
offering deviation of just up to +3/-1 seconds per day. Both
these qualities put the new 9S calibre right at the top of
chronometric precision, even higher than COSC certification
that is accorded today. The watch is available in a platinum
950 case, created by Nobuhiro Kosugi, the designer of the
first 9S watch in 1998. The aesthetic beauty of the watch is
a key highlight. The skilled craftsmen at Grand Seiko have
used two surfaces of Zaratsu polishing till the very edge of
the lug where these curved surfaces meet the hairline finish
to create a perfect triangle of design.
The steel, gold and
platinum versions of the
20th anniversary Caliber
9S are limited to 1,500, 150,
and 20 pieces respectively
Starts at ` 31,00,000
The development of the 9S calibre
is the most significant landmark in
Grand Seiko’s history since 1960
when the brand was formed. The
principal objective of the new 9S
calibre is to deliver high precision and
excellent durability.
The other limited editions include one
in an 18-carat gold case and the second in
stainless steel. The case and dial designs for
both models remain as the VFA one, even
using the same calibre 9S85 movement. The
gold version, however, offers a precision rate
of +4/-2 seconds per day. As with the VFA
version, the oscillating weight carries the
Grand Seiko lion emblem in 18-carat gold.
The stainless steel version, accurate to +5/-3
seconds, also has a special oscillating weight,
which is made of titanium and tungsten,
with the titanium surface in blue, owing to
an anodic oxidation process.
COMMON GROUND
All the 20th anniversary Caliber 9S models
are fitted with high-frequency automatic
movements, offering a power reserve of 55
hours. The case diameter is 39.5mm, which
is in line with the current trend of slightly
smaller watches. They come with highdefinition,
dual-curved sapphire crystal with
anti-reflective coating and a see-through
caseback. For classic timepieces like this, the
water resistance is decent at 100m. The steel,
gold and platinum versions are limited to
1,500, 150, and 20 pieces respectively.
Grand Seiko is not a line extension but
a different brand from the house of Seiko,
quite like Lexus from the Toyota group. The
watches are classically designed, crafted
with avant-garde materials, but are above all
driven by excellent movements, assuring the
very best in chronometric precision.
. 120 .

Best of 2018
A MASTER
The Titoni Master Series hits all the right spots with
its understated elegance, versatile looks, and the
extraordinary chronometer verification—a seal of the
COSC (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute)
By Sumita Bagchi
The Master Series Power
Reserve comes in an
unmistakable case size of
41mm, aided with a double
security system of the crown
and polished bezel
Starts at ` 1,59,000
You know you have come a long way when you have 99 years
of legacy behind you, and when you evoke fond memories
across generations around the world. Titoni—among the
few family-owned Swiss watch manufacturers—is one that
conjures up stories of nostalgia, love and admiration of an
erstwhile Swiss watch atelier that made its ways into India
soon after independence, finding its way into the hearts and
onto the wrists of watch lovers and aficionados.
PAVING THEIR OWN PATH
Founded in 1919 in Grenchen, at the foot of the Jura
Mountains, by Fritz Schluep, Titoni started charting history
as a small watch workshop. The watches were then sold under
the name Felco. Committed to producing
affordable Swiss-made mechanical watches,
Daniel Schluep, Titoni´s CEO says, “We set
high standards for ourselves, and we sell
only authentic Swiss quality time and not
an empty promise.” Schluep took over as
the company head in 1981 and represents
the third generation to carry the torch of his
family’s watchmaking heritage.
THE MASTER OF TITONI
A true classic and tour de force, Titoni’s
designs exude refined elegance that will
hold any well-dressed man in good stead.
The Master Series Power Reserve has a lot
to offer. This renewed classic line boasts of
a new design, as well as a large diameter of
41mm. However, what makes it a real star
is the seal of the independent association
COSC (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing
Institute)—making it the brand’s only
certified-chronometer line. To make this a
truly coveted series, the COSC certificate is
handed over together with the timepiece in
an elegant wooden watch box.
THE MAKINGS OF THE MASTER
With a power reserve indicator and a big date
on the dial, the Master Series Power Reserve
comes in an unmistakable case size of 41mm,
aided with a double security system of the
crown and polished bezel. One can choose
from the classy black, brown leather or the
stainless steel models, even as its sunray dial
glistens beautifully. The SuperLuminova on
the indexes and hands leads to a stunning
show of light to ensure that time can be
read perfectly, even in the dark. The leather
variant offers a solid and decorative folding
clasp for that perfect grip, while the steel
variant beckons with a solid butterfly clasp
to guarantee a perfect aesthetic finish and a
secure wearing experience.
With a power reserve up to 44 hours,
and water resistance of 100m, and varied
watch faces, there’s not much to complain
about. The watches feature a double-curved,
antireflective sapphire crystal glass enabling
a clear reading of time. Whether one opts for
the clean and elegant leather or the dressy
and imposing steel, Titoni will deliver on
style, performance and technology.
THE 100-YEAR
The Chronoscope
Terrasenbau
pays homage to
the Junghans
headquarters
` 6,72,000
The year 2018 marks 100 years of the
Junghans factory based in Schramberg, which
is widely recognised as a marvel of industrial
architecture. Commemorating the milestone
are the limited edition Meister Chronoscope
Terrassenbau watches
Junghans truly believes in honouring its past by celebrating
historic achievements and milestones that have helped in
shaping its future. As a remarkable way to present watch
lovers a piece of value for posterity, the 156-year-old German
watchmaker has introduced a pair of Junghans Meister
Chronoscope Terrassenbau watches, which commemorates
the 100th birthday of the company’s factory in Schramberg.
Designed by Philipp Jakob Manz in the early 1900s, the
company site is lauded as an architectural masterpiece.
Also recognised as a landmark in the Black Forest town of
Schramberg, the Junghans factory is a tangible depiction of
clever form and function. More than being the birthplace
of iconic timepieces, it is a beautiful edifice of passion,
creativity and every inimitable element that forms the legacy
of Junghans.
NINE STEPS TO SUCCESS
The terrace building is structured ascending the Black
Forest slope in nine steps, built in just two years. This
unique piece of history was originally built for reasons of
space in the already cramped valley in Schramberg, but
is now one of the most spectacular industrial buildings
worldwide. With greater emphasis on precision and quality,
this aspect of the building helped each watchmaker to
benefit from direct daylight at the workplace. In the ’50s
and ’60s, manufacturing of key components, calibre and
watch assembly, and regulation of chronometers—all were
transpiring in the building at a fierce pace.
A MIRROR OF HISTORY
Marking the 100th birthday of this marvel of industrial
architecture, this traditionalist brand presents an equally
marvellous timepiece—the limited edition Meister
Chronoscope Terrassenbau—available in gold and stainless
steel. Encased in 18-carat gold, the champagne-coloured
domed dial features three matte silver totalisers that take
inspiration from the beige and white stairway of the terrace
building. Running on a self-winding mechanism, this watch
offers a 48-hour power reserve. Limited to 100 pieces, it is
a befitting homage to Junghans. The stainless steel version,
limited to 1,000 pieces, has a matte silver-plated dial.
Reflected in the design in both editions are a number
of distinctive elements of the industrial monument in
Schramberg. The minute track of the dial indicates the
meandering design of the wall decorations in the terrace
building, while the dark green of the wall tiles in the stairways
resonates in the alligator leather strap. The cynosure of
all eyes is the caseback that features a direct view of the
Junghans manufactory in the form of an engraved image of
the terrace building.
Entombed in deep traditional workmanship and
blended with state-of-the-art technology and inventive
design, Junghans has had a compelling story that facilitates
the German brand towards scaling newer heights and
climbing the ladder of success.
By Aditi Batra
. 122 .

Ocean
blue
TREND WATCH 2018
BREITLING
SUPEROCEAN HERITAGE II B20 AUTOMATIC
A timepiece devoted to the most ardent ‘aquaphiles’ and military divers, this watch
beautifully embodies the colour of its source—the ocean. Immaculately designed with a
true blue essence, this piece guarantees sturdy performance. Beneath the dial is the reliable
automatic in-house B20 calibre. “This Superocean Heritage is based on the 1957 Superocean.
We haven’t changed it much. Even that had the Breitling logo without the wings,” says
Guy Bove, Breitling’s creative director. Crafted to take on the toughest adventures is the
44mm steel case, with its ceramic bezel, fitted with a blue, rubber aero classic strap.
` 3,12,010
A BOLT OF
BLUE
A hue that defines elegant styles and subtle perfection,
blue has always remained an integral tone in the colour
palette of watches. In 2018, the trend undisputedly
reigns supreme, taking forward a blue wave that gained
prominence a few years ago. From high-end dress
watches to dynamic sports watches, here are some
of the most desirable blue timepieces of the year
By Ishani Sirohi
. 126 .

TREND WATCH 2018
RAYMOND WEIL
MAESTRO BLUES
Inspired by the soulful notes of blues music is the wave pattern at
the centre on the Maestro Blues’ deep blue dial, housed in a 40mm
stainless steel case. Elevating the style quotient are the delicate hour
and minute hands in the same tone as the white Roman numerals.
The bewitching aperture at noon allows a peek at the automatic
winding movement that powers the watch. Complementing the
magic of the blue dial is a handsome, blue leather strap.
` 1,15,000
PITCH-
PERFECT
blue
precisely
blue
LONGINES
CONQUEST VHP
Drenched in a spectacular blue tone, this ‘very high precision’ (VHP) watch
is powered by an exceptional quartz movement, the L289.2 (ETA E57.211).
Available in two sizes—42mm and 44mm—the watch is fitted with an intelligent
crown, while the blue dial features three sub-dials—30-minute and 12-hour
counters, and small seconds. Extremely durable and ready for the outdoors,
the watch is complete with a blue rubber strap with a triple folding clasp.
` 96,800
. 128 .

TREND WATCH 2018
ÉCLATANT
bleu
JAEGER-LECOULTRE
RENDEZ-VOUS NIGHT & DAY
Bewitching, captivating and dazzling, all come forth in the epitome of delicate femininity—the
Rendez-Vous Night & Day. From a dreamy galactic testament to true grace, this piece presents a
sensational combination of a midnight blue dial and a gem-set bezel, featuring a day/night indicator.
The steel case, in 29mm or 34mm, is affixed with an alligator leather strap that complements
the dial. The sapphire crystal caseback allows a peek at the prestigious in-house movement.
Starts at ` 7,79,000
HUBLOT
CLASSIC FUSION AEROFUSION
RICHARD ORLINSKI
Sculpted by bestselling French artist, Richard
Orlinski, this Hublot watch is a true work of
art. His Midas touch is brought to life in the
bold ridges and angles of the piece. “When
Jean-Claude Biver [president of LVMH Group’s
watch division] and Ricardo Guadalupe
[CEO, Hublot] said I would be free to design
the case as I liked, I accepted their offer to
collaborate,” says Orlinski. “For an artist,
that freedom is important.” From the Classic
Fusion collection that pushes boundaries,
this limited edition timepiece is bursting
with life. Carved out of solid blue ceramic,
the 45mm three-dimensional case taps into
an angular play of design. With faceted
hour markers cast in sapphire crystal, the
watch runs on the Hublot HUB1155 calibre,
and comes with a black rubber strap.
` 13,06,700
midnight
blue spell
. 130 .

Tête-à-Tête
The Deutsche
distinction
One of the biggest up-and-coming
luxury watch brands in recent
years, Nomos certainly has strong
distinguishing factors. The chief
branding offer, Judith Borowski
talks about what sets Nomos apart,
creatively, technically, and as a
German watchmaker as well
The golden years of
BREITLING
Under new leadership, Breitling has significantly
shaken things up this year, but not without
drawing heavily from the brand’s glorious past.
We found out how, on talking to the brand’s new
creative director, Guy Bove. Here are excerpts
from the conversation
of the 1930s, to make customers aware of how far back our
aviation traditions go.
By Ranvijaysinh Jhala
Give us your view of Nomos’ 2018 novelties.
First we have the Update series, with the new Neomatik
date calibre, which is used in very slim watches. They’re
quite flat, but they’re automatic. And now the movement
comes with a date, which can be adjusted forward and
backwards very quickly. Then we have the Autobahn series,
which is one design in different colours, specially designed
by Werner Aisslinger, the renowned designer. And there’s
the Tetra Petit Four—our classic Tetra, in four new spring
colours—inspired by the French dessert.
Which is your favourite?
The Autobahn in white, with a silver-plated dial.
What are the strongest trends in watches this year?
In the last two or three years, I think watches have become
more sophisticated, a little more elegant, and maybe not as
loud anymore, as they were a few years ago. Men’s watches
are going smaller, but women, I think, prefer bigger watches
now than they did before.
Why should someone choose a Nomos?
I think to buy a Nomos watch is a good idea, because our
watches have a high and appreciating value. A Tangente
watch used to cost €500 about 25 years ago, and now it’s
up to €3,000. The value has increased. It’s a good idea to
invest in a watch made in Germany, which will have high
quality with German engineering and craftsmanship. A
German product design means watches with a minimalistic
look. It’s definitely more cost-effective, since Swiss watches
that present the same quality are generally
more expensive.
What are the key differences between
Swiss and German watchmaking?
I don’t want to talk about the others,
because they should talk about themselves.
We have got 11 calibres, all made by
ourselves. To have 11 calibres is something
special. We don’t source any components,
and I think that’s exceptional. I don’t know
many Swiss brands that are doing that—
maybe the very expensive ones, but not
the other brands. They may have a calibre
or two, while they source the rest. Even
the design is different between Swiss and
German watches.
Nomos has been known for its high design
values. What strong design influences do
you consider while developing products?
Usually, we work with mood boards, and
we collect pictures from different parts of
everyday life, of art, of interior design and
fashion, but most important is art. Our
design department works in Berlin. I think
it’s important for us to be in cafés, galleries
and museums, and to watch people, in the
tube, to see what’s on the street, and to get
a feeling of the things that are coming.
By Ranvijaysinh Jhala
How has your past in the industry
informed your work on Breitling?
After design school, my first job was with
an agency, designing for the watch industry.
I learnt a lot about design and watches,
but also other things necessary for luxury
brands. One of our customers was a guy
called Georges Kern, who was working
at Richemont Group. In 2002, he became
IWC’s CEO and hired me to set up an inhouse
creative team. I worked with him
for six years, got to know him, the way he
thinks. We understand each other quite well.
I also spent almost 10 years with Chopard,
as a product director, so I learnt about
making products that are feasible. At IWC,
I handled the whole brand—print, product,
packaging, etc. That’s obviously been very
useful, working again with Georges.
How did the Navitimer 8 come about?
It’s an addition to the existing Navitimer
line—like a prequel. The Navitimer you
know is from 1952. And the Navitimer 8 is
basically a reference to the cockpit clocks
Talk about the changes that Breitling is going through.
What we are aiming to do is to go back to the period of
Willy Breitling’s ownership—1930-70. He made tool watches
so elegant—almost like dress watches. With the wings from
the logo gone, we’ve gone back to our 1940s’ design, with
cleaner dials. All updates are really just facelifts. Breitling has
had 11 to 13 pillars—Colt, Avenger, Chronomat, Superocean,
Transocean, Chronoliner, etc. There are problems with
connecting all of them with planes. We are trying to go back
to a time when Breitling was making diving watches, linked
with cars, actors, etc. We had a lot of touch-points among
cool people. We want to go back to that, without getting rid
of aviation. So we’re streamlining the collection. Anything
to do with water will come under Superocean, aviation
under Navitimer, and driving or biking under Transocean.
We’re fusing Colt, Chronomat, Avenger, and Super Avenger
in a combined Chronomat family. The idea is to make
contemporary sports watches that are easy to read like pilot’s
watches, water resistant like diving watches, and basically
tough, go-everywhere, everyday watches.
Because of the changes, which are already quite apparent,
Breitling has received criticism from several fans of the brand.
Are these the fans of the brand’s last 40 years, or the fans of
the brand’s original 100 years? In going back to the brand’s
past, we are drawing inspiration from older watches. When
you see today’s Breitling and the Breitling of 1960, you’ll
immediately see the connection, and I think it will actually
create great value for the brand. It’s not fair to say we’re not
being true to the brand. We’re being truer than ever. I’m
always trying to imagine how far we can push any of our
product ranges and still legitimately be able to call it by its
name and have people make the connection. And I think it
can be pretty far.
. 132 .

TREND WATCH 2018
Tête- a -Tête
Dark and
dazzling
DARK
DIMENSIONS
An increasing number of watch manufacturers are making the aesthetic choice
of using darker metals in their watches. For a more sophisticated look, for
monochromatic perfection or for an offbeat hue, physical vapour deposition
(PVD), diamond-like carbon (DLC), and other methods of treating metal for a dark
appearance have grown significantly in popularity this year
By Ranvijaysinh Jhala
MEISTERSINGER
BLACK LINE
This year, Meistersinger unveiled an entire special edition of all
their flagship pieces in DLC-treated steel. The Circularis, Salthora,
Perigraph, and N°3 come with their standard features—power reserve
indicator with date, hour window, analogue date, and singular hand,
respectively. Accents in beige and red are juxtaposed against the
matte black look, extending onto the casebacks, which frame the
sapphire crystal that gives you a clear view of the movements within.
Starts Starts at ` 1,55,000
. 134 .

TREND WATCH 2018
DIVING
Dark
BREITLING
NAVITIMER 8 AUTOMATIC
A perfect example of monochromatic
perfection is the Automatic version of
the new Navitimer 8, with its 41mm
case in stainless steel that features
DLC treatment, giving it just the right
finish. Fitted with a COSC-certified
chronometer movement, the 100m
water-resistant case also includes a
rotating bezel with a triangular marker.
As the charcoal black dial complements
the case, there is luminescence
in its hour indexes and hands.
Starts at ` 3,69,390
Dark
all over
LONGINES
LEGEND DIVER
A reimagining of a 1960 diver’s watch, this timepiece from Longines’
Heritage Line comes in a 42mm steel case, featuring black PVD
treatment. Water resistant to 300m—adequate for a diver’s timepiece—
the case has a second crown at two o’clock, used to rotate the inner
diving bezel. Behind the dial of this watch—in black lacquer with
luminescent markers and hands—is a Longines-exclusive metal.
The rubber strap has a Milanese bracelet texture.
` 1,41,100
. 136 .

TREND WATCH 2018
Dark
SKIES
dramatic
Dark
ORIS
PARADROPPER LT STAFFEL 7
Among the latest in Oris’ offering of aviation watches, this Oris
Paradropper watch was originally designed for certain Swiss
Air Force pilots and their time-sensitive missions. The 44mm
case in lightweight titanium features a hard-wearing DLC
treatment in matte-black, which offsets the glare in the cockpit.
The bidirectional rotating bezel is in ceramic, while the olive
textile strap complements the green central chronograph hand.
` 2,65,000
CORUM
BUBBLE JULIETTE JOURDAIN
From the Bubble collection of Corum,
which famously showcases the works
of eminent artists through the convex
sapphire crystal glass used in these pieces,
comes the new Juliette Jourdain edition.
The artwork on the dial, which features a
real blue jay feather, is by the eponymous
artist, Jourdain, with whom Corum has
collaborated in the past. Complementing
the art is the steel case that has been PVDtreated
for an impactful purple appearance.
` 5,24,000
. 138 .

Tête-à-Tête
To the future of
TRADITION
Jean-Claude Biver, the CEO of TAG Heuer and
president of the LVMH Group’s watch division talks
about how the smartwatch is actually promoting
the Swiss watch industry, and about maintaining the
individuality of every brand under the LVMH umbrella,
including Hublot and Zenith
By Ranvijaysinh Jhala
How does the smartwatch impact the Swiss watch
industry going forward?
Apple is promoting the Swiss watch industry in a huge way.
Is it more difficult to sell a pair of shoes to someone who has
never worn shoes or to somebody who has? It’s definitely
easier to sell a pair of leather shoes to someone who has
been wearing Nike for 25 years. Similarly, is it more difficult
to sell a watch to someone who has never worn a watch in
38 years, or to someone who has? They’ve got 30 million
people to wear a watch on the wrist. It’s the same with
Samsung, LG, etc.
And smartwatches are still in the ‘Stone Age’. The
Apple Watch started two and a half years ago, and when
a product has been out for only two years, it’s still a baby.
Compared to what a smartwatch will be able to do in the
years to come, it currently does nothing. What is easier—to
have a cell phone in my pocket or to have a watch on the
wrist? Why did we invent the wristwatch? For 300 years, it
was just the pocket watch. And then a pilot—Louis Blériot—
asked if his pocket watch could be fixed on his wrist, to make
it easier to read while flying. And they fixed his pocket watch
to his jacket sleeve. Everybody decided that it was a great
idea, and that’s how the pocket watch disappeared. The cell
phone is just like that pocket watch.
How is Hublot’s smartwatch doing?
Sold out! At $5,000, it’s expensive, and only a Hublot can sell
at this price. But it’s sold out only because it’s 2,018 pieces.
Only so many will buy a product at this price if it is bound to
become obsolete soon. People won’t even buy a smartphone
for over $1,000, if it’ll be outdated in three years.
Hublot used TAG Heuer’s Connected module for
their smartwatch. With more integration between
the LVMH brands, how do you maintain their
individuality?
If you have three kids, how do you not have one kid become
a copy of his elder brother? By respecting their personality,
taste and skills. If one of my children has studied to be a
doctor, I won’t ask the other to also study medicine. He could
be an artist or a drummer. It’s the same here. Every brand
has its own DNA, which I have not invented. Every brand
has a message. If Hublot’s message is the ‘art of fusion’, I will
not tell TAG Heuer that they should convey the message of
‘fusion’. And if TAG Heuer wants to go in that direction,
I will tell them that they are copying Hublot’s DNA, which
is not allowed. But you can help sometimes. If Hublot wants
help from TAG Heuer with their smartwatch, of course
they’ll get it. But their product is completely different from
TAG’s, with different features and a different price.
After working with Hublot for so long, and now TAG
Heuer, is it difficult to not be partial?
If you ask me which child I love the most, for each one,
it’ll be the same. I was at Hublot, but before that, Omega,
and before that, Blancpain. I always adapt to the brand, and
I go deep into the knowledge and the
history. On doing so, you love each brand
for what it is. Now, of all the five brands
I have handled, which one is the closest to
my own taste? That’s a different matter. If
you ask which child’s dressing I like the
most, I can decide. So Hublot is the closest
to my taste.
Talk about TAG Heuer and Bamford’s
collaboration for the new Monaco watch
customised by them.
We’re in a world where we all tend to be
the same. We have the same phone, listen
to the same music, have the same jeans,
the same Nike shoes, we sometimes even
the same tattoo. We are totally unified,
like the military. The more similar we
are, the more people want to be treated
as individuals. So, personalisation does
come into the picture. People buy different
iPhone cases to set themselves apart. People
want customisation in cars also. It’s the
small workshops that do it. They do what
big companies like Mercedes-Benz cannot
do. And who is the small workshop for
me? It’s Bamford. Bamford is giving me
personalisation for special requests. They
have a good reputation and high quality.
Zenith has struggled in recent years, but it’s
picking up now. What changed?
For 50 years, Zenith had been doing the
El Primero, which came out in 1969. But El
Primero cannot be repeated as it is; there
must be an evolution. I told Zenith that they
must not repeat their tradition. You must be
the future of your tradition. If you repeat
your tradition, you don’t progress. Just like
we have a very long tradition, we also have
a very long future ahead of us—a future of
high-precision instruments. Zenith has won
2,325 grand prix of accuracy. We had to ask
what the future of accuracy was. And it’s a
new pendulum system that gives you a time
variation of one second per day and not 10.
So, we decided to invent a new regulator,
a new pendulum. People thought it was
impossible, as the pendulum was invented
in 1673, by Christian Huygens, and nobody
has ever found something better. But we
did with the Defy, becoming the future
of tradition.
How strong is Defy for Zenith?
In five years, about 80 percent of Zenith will be Defy. What
the Big Bang is for Hublot, Defy will be for Zenith. What’s
great about it is that it kills the normal regulator. With the
new regulator, the pendulum is no longer required. There’s
no hairspring, oil, friction or any influence of temperature or
magnetic forces. It doesn’t require service or maintenance.
Could you talk about TAG Heuer reinforcing its association
with automobiles?
We are back where we belong. We have a DNA that is clearly
associated with motor-racing and being absent from motorracing
doesn’t make sense. We have entered other fields—
football, lifestyle, collaborating with top models. We’ve
also entered art, associating with street painters, music, and
we’ve also entered the heritage space, with heritage watches
like Monza and Autavia. Having opened other universes,
we found that we needed to also reinforce motor-racing, to
recapture an aspect of our original DNA. So now motorracing
continues to be about 50 percent of our universes.
What binds TAG Heuer and Aston Martin, and what will this
partnership entail?
We have a lot of things in common—history, heritage,
tradition, success, design, power, mechanics, exclusivity,
even partners. Aston Martin is with Red Bull and Gulf just
as we are. It’s a natural fit. We will do special watches for
Aston Martin. There will be cars with our watches on the
dashboards. There will be watches that you can only buy
if you have an Aston Martin. There will be an association
with the racing team of Aston Martin. So, it’s a 360-degree
partnership, just like Hublot’s association with Ferrari and
Ferrari Scuderia.
The TAG Heuer
Monaco Bamford
edition
. 140 .

Tête-à-Tête
Practically
SPEAKING
With a strong brand philosophy of only ever making
products that make practical sense, offered at
reasonable prices, Oris makes it a point to go their
own way, in every way possible. Here’s what the
company’s chairman, Ulrich Herzog, had to share,
while in conversation with us
By Ranvijaysinh Jhala
Give us your take on this year’s new innovations from
Oris.
I’d like to show you one thing that takes us back to the roots
of Oris. In its initial years, Oris developed 275 in-house
calibres, and that was the key for this company to really
grow. When we bought the company back from the Swatch
Group, we had a period when we worked only with other
movement manufacturers. But in 2014, we decided to make
our movements, and started with the Calibre 110, which had
a power reserve of 10 days. And then there was Calibre 111,
with a date. It continued with 112, 113, and this year, we’re
bringing the Calibre 114. The good thing is that it has GMT
that has half hours.
Is this the first in-house calibre release that’s not in the
Artelier collection?
Yes, you’re right. You know the Oris brand well.
Your tagline was ‘Real Watches For Real People’, and now it’s
‘Go Your Own Way’. What changed?
It’s to reinforce that we have our own identity and we don’t
follow others. Being independent is a very important part of
this. We always try to invent. Our objective is to have one
patent per year. Our idea is to be innovative doing what we
believe in. Even from a financial viewpoint, we go our own
way, independent, and not in debt.
How do you stay innovative while adhering to your philosophy
of only making watches that make practical sense?
This is an absolute challenge. On one hand, it is in the
movement, where we can bring out our own innovation, like
the half-hour GMT. And in the case of our other features, like
the altimeter and the diver’s watch depth gauge, they are all
smart and practical innovations and all at reasonable prices.
What are the biggest trends this year?
We’ve found out that others are also realising that bringing out
the most complicated editions is not the answer to everything.
They’ve brought down the prices to more reasonable levels.
With Oris, that’s always been the case.
And in terms of styles?
Sizes are definitely going smaller unless there are special
functions that need more space. We are now even going down
to 38mm and 36mm, like in the Big Crown Pointer Date (in
bronze). These sizes are more in demand.
Is this a conscious effort to also cater to women?
This is a unisex watch. In Japan though, it’s a men’s watch.
Japan was the first market where we noticed the trend
of smaller watches. They saw this happening four years
ago. We started to work towards smaller sizes since Japan
is an important market for us. But for women, we have
other watches too. There’s even a skeleton watch—the
Artelier Skeleton—and there’s an Artelier with diamonds
as well.
The art of constant
innovation
With Hublot’s first smartwatch and the new vivid
ceramic among their other fascinating innovations of
the year, the brand CEO, Ricardo Guadalupe had a
lot to talk about. Here are some excerpts from our
interview
By Ranvijaysinh Jhala
According to you, what has been the
highlight by Hublot this year?
We have two new materials and new
movements. We have the vivid red
ceramic—a world first—and a new Unico
movement, suitable for smaller watches. My
favourite this year is the Big Bang MP-11.
It has everything—our technical know-how
and material innovation—carbon fibre 3D.
What are the biggest trends this year?
Watches are smaller. For men, it’s between
40mm and 45mm. Another trend is
lightness, which we achieve using materials
such as carbon fibre and titanium. We
create watches with spectacle, with visible
mechanics, such as the Big Bang MP-11. It’s
about creating watches that are true pieces
of watchmaking art.
Something like the Classic Fusion created in
collaboration with artist Richard Orlinski?
There’s art through mechanics, but there’s
also art through the work of artists. And
Richard Orlinski is a sculptor with a strong
identity. We decided to use his art in a watch.
The result is fantastic and in demand.
Now let’s talk about the Big Bang Referee—
Hublot’s first smartwatch.
It was a request from FIFA to have a watch
for the referees for the World Cup, and we
said that if we are the official timekeepers
of FIFA and if the referees want something,
it has to be a Hublot. Being a part of the
LVMH Group, we decided to work with
TAG Heuer’s Connected module, and
developed specific applications for the
referees and football fans. It’s a one-shot
limited edition—a marketing tool more than
anything else. We could do another one-off
piece for another partnership, like, let’s say,
Ferrari. But it will never be a collection.
How would you interpret the ‘Art of fusion’?
The art of fusion is about connecting
tradition and innovation.
What advice would you give a novice who’s
interested in buying a luxury watch?
I would say you have to go by emotion.
I think the emotion transmitted through
the product is crucial. After that, the
brand should be an influencing factor. For
watchmaking, you need passion, know-how,
innovation, creativity, and quality as well.
. 142 .

Tête-á-Tête
At the core of
corum
Even with Corum’s strong product philosophy and an
undying commitment to craftsmanship, the Swiss watch
manufacturers are open to creativity, but not without
sensibility, explains the CEO, Jérôme Biard. Here are
excerpts from our interview
By Ranvijaysinh Jhala
What’s new with Corum this year?
With our new strategy, we are projecting a younger image—
more playful, with more colour. The focus is the four brand
pillars—Golden Bridge, Admiral, the Heritage collection
and Bubble—but we’ve played with iconic pieces to present
creativity with audacity.
What are the true values of watchmaking in your opinion?
You have to be authentic, creative and aesthetical, and it has
to look elegant on the wrist. I believe that a watch should look
good on the wrist; not just in a showcase or in a picture.
What advice would you give to a novice who wishes to invest
in high-end watches?
It’s very personal, so you have to make sure it matches your
personality and represents you and isn’t just for others to like.
Get to know what’s inside the watch and then get to know the
brand; not the other way around.
With several luxury brands also making smartwatches now,
is there a chance Corum will make one anytime soon?
Never say never! But not anytime soon, as it doesn’t fit in with
our focus on craftsmanship.
Now even the artistic Bubble watch has a tourbillon. What
other forms of evolution can we expect from Corum?
You could expect some more integration between the pillars.
For instance, imagine the Golden Bridge with the nautical
flags of the Admiral collection. We are open to out-of-thebox
ideas, and infusing modernity and youth even into the
Golden Bridge. If something makes sense and adds value,
why not!
Tell us about the comeback of the Romvlvs collection.
We had been waiting for the right time to do a new Romvlvs.
This year, we had an annual calendar movement, and saw
potential for it in the Romvlvs collection, so we decided to
bring it back.
What are the craziest product ideas that you and your team
have come across at Corum?
I like crazy people. We are all quite crazy. Gosh…I like the
question. It’s not the craziest thing, but I think we’d love
to recreate the watch with the Rolls-Royce grille. There is
another idea that I cannot disclose right now. All I can say is
that it has something to do with wine.
Apart from Corum, what are the other brands and collections
that you particularly admire?
I’ve always been a fan of Audemars Piguet. I’m still a huge
fan of Rolex. Another brand I really like from a product point
of view is Graham. I love the Graham Chronofighter. It’s got
a very out-of-the-box design. Among other products, I am a
fan of Montegrappa and Aurora pens. I like such products
that are nice to hold and use, and have a story to tell.
The price is
RIGHT
Offering fine timepieces at reasonable prices—
now including in-house movements—Raymond
Weil is a manufacturer that has carved a strong
niche in its category. The brand takes great
pride in this, says Olivier Bernheim, son-in-law
of the late Raymond Weil and president of the
company, in a tête-à-tête with us
By Ranvijaysinh Jhala
Could you talk a little about your brand’s highlights
of the year?
The highlight of the year, I think is Raymond Weil itself.
We are a family-owned business. We carry a fully-fledged
brand with ladies’ and men’s watches, at very affordable
price points. Most of them are somehow linked to music. The
highlight this year is the price point. For me, it’s of utmost
importance, because the price point is the reason why the
world is in turmoil today. Millennials are strong, and people
are interested in different values.
Raymond Weil has had over 40 years in the industry.
We have the full ability to manufacture even watches with
complications, and all at affordable prices.
How does Raymond Weil pay attention to price points?
Compared with other brands, we are stable with our
price points. Of course, depending on the margins, some
prices have come down. We have worked very hard with
production. And our price point, of $800 to $3,000, is what a
large percentage of the consumers look out for today. While
we have worked on the price point within the niche that is
ours, the consumers have become conscious of what they’re
spending on. People are not going to buy products with crazy
price tags anymore.
What are the biggest trends this year?
Blue dials are coming back very strongly. The combination
of steel and gold watches, and mechanical watches are the
definite trends. The millennial wants something that is highly
technical.
What advice would you give to a novice who wishes to invest
in high-end watches?
I’ve been in this business for 35 years and I’ve never been
asked this question. My answer’s not to copy a famous brand.
I would recommend classical, Swiss-made, self-winding
watches, which are transferable. You can have it for yourself,
and you can pass it down to your son, or to someone else.
That’s the most important element because today everything
is so fast. In all of that, it’s good to have something really
personal and cherished, which you can give to someone who
means something to you.
What’s your take on the smartwatch, now that even luxury
brands are making them?
I don’t want to comment on what the others are doing.
According to me, an Apple Watch is a smartwatch.
Everything else is not a smartwatch; they’re all gimmicks.
How interested are you in knowing how your heart is beating
at night? In my opinion, the Apple Watch is doing exactly
what the Swatch plastic watches did in the ’80s. It’s going to
bring the millennial guys to the watch industry and make
them realise the value of the products we make. And they’ll
want to grow, evolve, and they’ll want to see more from the
watch industry.
. 144 .

Tête-à-Tête
When technology meets
tradition
With the first ever ‘3.0’ mechanical smartwatch,
Frederique Constant ensures that they can innovate
in mechanical watchmaking even with smart
technology; hence, staying ahead in the game.
Co-founder and co-president, Aletta Stas-Bax
shares her thoughts on the same
By Ranvijaysinh Jhala
What is the significance of the brand’s name?
Frederique and Constant are our middle names. I’m Aletta
Francoise Frederique Bax and my [co-founder] husband
is Peter Constant Stas. These names are from our greatgrandparents.
Interestingly, great-grandfather Constant Stas
was into printing and he used to make dials for big clocks in
Holland. So there’s a little link to watches also.
What’s new with Frederique Constant this year?
Our highlight is the 3.0 Manufacture Hybrid. With a
mechanical movement and smart functions, it also measures
movement analytics, which will let you know if and when
your watch needs to be serviced.
You’ve already done smartwatches before. Is this to bridge
the gap between mechanical and smart timekeeping?
In 2015, we decided to embrace the development of
smartwatches. With the Apple Watch, everyone in the Swiss
watch industry said it had nothing to do with us. We feel it’s
not completely different. And Apple Watch has taken a share
of the Swiss quartz watch market, so we can’t ignore it. We
don’t want to make this segment much bigger at Frederique
Constant, but it’s important to show the innovative aspect of
the brand, combining smart technology with horology.
Does Frederique Constant have any in-house movements?
About 25 percent of the turnover is in-house movements.
While prototyping and production is partly done in-house,
conception and assembly is completely in-house.
You also have Alpina. How do you work on both brands and
maintain each one’s DNA?
Frederique Constant is contemporary classical, while Alpina
is more lifestyle-sports. Alpina is actually an old brand from
1883—a pioneer of the sports watch—which we bought in
2002 and breathed new life into. Since we created Frederique
Constant, it’s easy to go into the design. Alpina is different.
There I really have to step away from Frederique Constant
and concentrate. Sometimes I have an idea for one while
working on another, and I just make a note of it.
What advice would you give to a novice who wishes to invest
in high-end watches?
I would draw comparisons between watches and cars. I
would explain that like a car motor, a mechanical watch has
all these little components working together. Most people
are interested in discovering how things work. I’d explain
that there are companies that make movements for mass
production, and those that make their own, making their
products really special. Then people start to understand the
speciality of it. In manufacture watches, Frederique Constant
is the most affordable. For someone who doesn’t know about
watches, it’s a huge step to spend a lot of money. But by
understanding the craftsmanship and watchmaking aspects,
they realise it’s something unique, which everyone wants.
Inspiration
TRIGGERED
Tell
Taking forward the legacy of pioneering 18th
century English watchmaker, George Graham, the
founder of Graham watches, Eric Loth talks of the
signature chronograph trigger system and how
the eponymous watchmaker continues to inspire
the brand’s contemporary and bold creations.
Here are excerpts from our conversation
By Ranvijaysinh Jhala
us the Graham story.
The Graham story was dormant for many years. We acquired
the rights to use the name in 1994 and established the brand
in ’95. No one knew about British watchmaking. Everybody
believed, even the Brits themselves, that it was a Swiss thing.
Most of the greatest inventions were made by the English.
One good reason for this was that the English were looking
for more precision at sea, for which they needed to know the
time for the exact longitude and other details to help with
navigation. The English ruled the world for so long because
they knew the location of everything. One of the pioneering
English watchmakers of the time was George Graham.
For me, it was about transforming my knowledge
about history, my culture as an engineer into a brand. The
Chronofighter was the collection I always had in me. The
Panerai crown protector inspired us, but we wanted it to
perform a function, and we found a timepiece with a similar
system that was used as a chronograph trigger. This was made
during World War II for the bomber pilots. We translated this
concept into a wristwatch. In 1610, George Graham made
the first clock that could measure the duration of events.
Before this, astronomers used to measure laps of time by
stopping and restarting the balance wheel. Graham invented
the clutch system that disconnected the balance wheel and
independently measured the time, ensuring precision, even
while laps of time were being measured. This mechanism
was operated by a large trigger, which also inspired us.
Could you talk about the other product lines?
My passion for racing made me do the Silverstone
chronographs. We used racing colours because I do some
racing myself, and we’ve also been sponsors of Formula One.
There’s the Geo.Graham, which connects with the Graham of
the past. For instance, the Geo.Graham Orrery Tourbillon—
which depicts the Solar System’s movement with accuracy—
is inspired by a 1713 table clock by George Graham. The
completion of this watch was a special moment for me, next
only to the birth of my children.
How consistently does George Graham inspire your watches?
No two products are developed the same way. Sometimes
we come up with an idea that is linked to George Graham,
sometimes not, sometimes it comes later. But there are others
in very nascent stages. We have a lot of works-in-progress—a
reserve of ideas yet to be developed. Sometimes we decide
not to do something in a particular year, because it doesn’t
feel right for the our story at the time, and we keep it for later.
Do you have an example?
The Chronofighter Superlight was something that we decided
to do this year. We believe that the Superlight watch at the
price point we offer is something that will be a key demand.
Having the pleasure of a mechanical timepiece, yet one that
is lightweight is something that people will want. It’s very
comfortable. My favourite is the violet one.
. 146 .

Tête-à-Tête
TREND WATCH 2018
What was your idea behind Meistersinger’s singlehand
watches?
It’s about going back to the beginnings of watchmaking,
to make a very simple watch that has the feeling of an
instrument of measurement, which is what it used to be.
Till 1750, timekeeping instruments—tower clocks and even
pocket watches—actually had only one hand. With all the
technology that we have today, some of the dials have
become so complex. Our products appeal to those who like
watches that are clean and pure. Besides the single hand,
we always use double digits with a zero before the singledigit
numbers, which makes the dial more even. Not using
Roman numerals is intentional.
The true value of
time
There’s more to Meistersinger’s distinct approach to
watchmaking than just one timekeeping hand. Manfred
Brassler, the brand’s founder, talks about how the
minutes that truly count in life don’t necessarily need to
be counted
By Ranvijaysinh Jhala
What does the presentation of time in this manner mean?
Why do people wear watches? Is it because they need
super-precise time? All the big watch guys say that it is an
emotional thing. Any quartz watch that costs €19 is more
precise, for its electronic movement. [For our watches] some
might say that you cannot read the time well. But for some
people, it’s the luxury to be generous with their time that
they enjoy. Our watches encourage you to remember that
you have human time; not just cultural or industrial time.
Could you explain how Meistersinger is a German brand
with Swiss-made watches?
The watches are made in Switzerland, even though we are
a German company. Besides sourcing movements, we have
also created our own, which was a breakthrough, because
no one trusted that a small company like us could do this. As
we prefer Swiss quality, our watches are German-designed
and Swiss-made. There’s only one exception, which runs on
a Miyota movement, since there was a demand for a watch
priced below €1,000.
What can you tell us about the 2018 novelties?
We have the Black Line with DLC treatment, including the
movements used. It includes the No1, a DLC edition of our
first, basic watch—widely accepted and recognised. The
biggest thing for a brand is to have a recognisable product.
You see it with Rolex and Panerai. With a small company
like ours, it’s a very big advantage and a strength. This
year we also have the Lunascope, with a large moon phase
indicator. And there’s the Metris, a completely new line,
with nylon straps. It’s targeted at younger people—the more
sportive and urban types.
Smaller sizes have been a strong trend recently. Is this true
this year as well?
Sizes are going smaller. Although 43mm is still our strongest,
we have added 40mm versions of our bestsellers, and a
38mm. We understand that people might want watches to
be a little smaller. Also, the Neo is a line we’re selling in great
quantities, especially in 36 and 40mm. There’s the Pangaea
as well, which is, in a way, a very slim watch. It has a two-part
case, but half the thickness is the dome of the glass.
THE
INSIDE
STORY
Flaunting revolutionary mechanisms and an open-worked
approach to watchmaking, skeleton watches radiate a
blend of distinction and modernity, especially in these
new 2018 timepieces
By Aditi Batra
. 148 .

TREND WATCH 2018
astronomy
The
story
musical
story
The
Panerai
L’Astronomo LUMINOR 1950
With a name as powerful as L’Astronomo Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases
Equation Of Time GMT, this Panerai timepiece is surely a special one. This madeto-order
watch is the first of Panerai’s creations to have a moon phase indication, and
an innovative system using polarised crystal for the date indication. Dedicated to the
Italian astronomer Galileo Galilei, this 50mm-wide skeletonised beauty features a handwound
P.2005/GLS calibre with the characteristic Panerai tourbillon escapement—a
sophisticated merger of avant-garde technology and intricate aesthetics.
Starts at ` 1,46,00,000
Corum
Golden Bridge Joachim Horsley
This by-product of Corum’s partnership with music composer and
orchestrator Joachim Horsley adds a classy touch of the performing arts to
the emblematic Golden Bridge collection. Available in white or pink gold,
this idiosyncratic timepiece features a metallic depiction of the musical
notes of an extract from Beethoven’s Seventh Symphony. The limited
edition haute horlogerie Golden Bridge Joachim Horsley will be the first
Corum watch to feature a metallic decoration on its sapphire caseback.
` 37,63,000
. 150 .

TREND WATCH 2018
BVlgari
Octo Finissimo Tourbillon
At Baselworld 2018, Bulgari beat Piaget to reclaim their leadership over slender watches
by launching the Octo Finissimo Automatic, featuring a tourbillon, measuring 3.95mm
in thickness. The Calibre BVL 288 Finissimo—measuring just 1.95mm—offers a
52-hour power reserve. Housed in a sandblasted titanium case, the movement
is entirely skeletonised. With this unveiling, Bulgari has set the world
record of thin watches for the fourth time, after breaking records with the
thinnest minute repeater, tourbillon and automatic watches since 2014.
` 86,54,000
The
slim
story
traveller
The
story
TAG Heuer
Carrera GMT
This novelty, flaunting the original ‘three-six-nine’ counter layout from 1963, showcases the
Heuer 02 chronograph calibre from between the bridges of its skeleton dial—a design like
the one seen in the Carrera Manchester United and Senna timepieces. The addition of the
GMT function to its manufacture movement marks a first for the brand. The second time
zone is read using the lacquered red hand and the black and blue ceramic bezel, which
has a 24-hour GMT scale.
Starts at ` 4,19,750
. 152 .

TREND WATCH 2018
AFTERWORD
Switzerland’s tryst with
TIMEKEEPING
By Yashovardhan Saboo
Zenith
defy
One of the few Swiss brands
to successfully celebrate a
sesquicentennial anniversary, Zenith
is the epitome of horological métiers
since 1865. Oozing charisma and stellar
architecture are their newly introduced
Defy Classic models. Incorporating the
now familiar Defy shape, but in 41mm,
these watches exude an elegant yet
sporty look. This distinctive timepiece
is available in three options fitted with
a metal bracelet, or an alligator leather
rubber strap, or unistructure rubber.
` 5,47,500
The
defiant
story
A few years ago as global sales of mobile phones out-performed any other consumer durable, murmurs were heard of
an impending crisis for conventional watches, since phones could do so much more than tell time. The Apple Watch’s
sales rivalled that of all Swiss watches. Many even wrote of a possible collapse of the Swiss watch industry. The steady
decline in Swiss watch exports through 2016-17 seemed to support the doomsayers. Yet, Swiss watches, especially the
luxury segment is rebounding strongly, as I write. It’s not the first time that an epitaph written for the Swiss watch
business was proven wrong. I’ve learned a lot from the resilience of the business.
The invention and early development of scientific timekeeping took place in the UK and France. USA emerged
a robust competitor, pioneering automation, simplification, and cost-reduction—a crisis that the Swiss had to tide
over in the early 20th century. But by then, Switzerland had all but established complete hegemony over serious
watchmaking. Rolex established its formidable fame for quality. Breitling produced the Navitimer—arguably the
first watch to go beyond timekeeping. Patek Philippe had super complications. Cartier dominated jewellery watches.
Jaeger-LeCoultre produced the Reverso. And Omega famously created the first watch worn on the moon. Those were
heady golden years.
The serious existential ‘quartz crisis’ struck in the ’70s, shortly before I entered the business. Switzerland understood
electronic watch technology but dithered in adopting it, while Japan quickly embraced quartz, creating super-accurate
watches at low costs. Soon, the formidable fortress of Swiss watches lay devastated with scores of Swiss factories dead
or dying. Once-famous brands were sold in distress or barely survived. The Swiss, even luxury brands, eventually did
begin embracing quartz. However, the epitaph was written, most believed, in stone this time. Switzerland had missed
the bus. Watch component factories were closing every month. One such factory was of Leschot SA dials, which I
purchased to bring to India in 1982. Thus started my journey in watches.
Baselworld was then, and still is, the most important event for the business, but it was much smaller. The main
hall housed only a few luxury brands such as Rolex, Patek Philippe and Omega, in modest stands. The Swiss spirit
of competition and innovation fought back, led by none other than the late Mr Nicolas Hayek Sr, a visionary and
entrepreneur beyond compare, and the founder of the (now) Swatch Group. He worked with banks to restructure the
business, and with the Swiss government to change laws. Above all, he initiated the creation of Swatch—the world’s
first watch worn for style and fun, inexpensive, yet dependable. Swatch became a household word. More importantly,
it galvanised the entire Swiss watch business with confidence.
During the ’90s, the top brands quietly but accurately concluded that the future lay in mechanical watchmaking,
working concertedly to project them as precious products of craftsmanship. Soon, mechanical watches reclaimed the
high ground of horology, leaving quartz behind in value. With consolidation, Swatch Group had the most formidable
portfolio, while Richemont Group was studded exclusively with high-end brands. Even fashion groups such as LVMH
created strong watch portfolios, while Rolex continued to develop its incomparable strength. Massive investments
were made in technology, with marketing muscle for image. Baselworld changed dramatically to become a spectacular
showcase, and celebrity ambassadors enhanced global visibility. Simultaneously, a host of independent brands—young,
competitive and ambitious—started and thrived, despite the large groups. This was a resounding testimony to the spirit
of innovation and competitiveness that has characterised the Swiss watch business. Even the international economy
was a great support. The boom from 2000 to 2015, with a few interruptions, once again proved the doomsayers wrong.
Now we fast forward to the present. It is true that ‘wearables’ are growing and though the Apple Watch is
commonly seen on wrists, many youngsters don’t wear watches at all. But the Swiss are embracing ‘wearables’ as well,
adding luxurious flair. Many Apple Watch users soon end up buying a conventional watch for more special occasions.
There are more wealthy young now than before, and the aspiration is stronger. There are still very few products, if
any, better than a special watch. As collectibles, they even have long-term investment value. A younger generation of
entrepreneurs and managers—familiar with the potential of new media, and honed in more competitive fields such as
automobiles and FMCG—is quietly but surely transforming the Swiss watch business as we speak. No doubt it will seem
very different 10 years hence, but I’m sure it will be stronger and will continue to excite consumers around the world.
Yashovardhan Saboo is the managing director of Ethos Watch Boutiques
. 154 .