36574 Safari link issue 31 2ƒ

OCT – DEC '18
www.flysafarilink.com
With compliments of Safarilink
WILDLIFE DIRECT
Saving our animals
DESTINATION
KISUMU
Lakeside loveliness
WIN 2 NIGHTS
At Shimoni Reef Lodge, with return flights to Diani provided by Safarilink
YOUR COPY TO KEEP

CELEBRATING
Destination Vipingo
Give yourself the gift of breath-taking views and
premier lifestyle options
We’ve worked passionately over the last 10 years to realise our vision of a world-class
coastal retreat on an award winning Golf Course that effortlessly blends an array of activities
with a relaxing ambience and unmatched service. Whether for business or leisure,
choose Vipingo Ridge to reconnect or indulge.
Call us on +254 41 5015010 to book a viewing or a holiday or email debbie@vipingoridge.com
www.vipingoridge.com

JAMBO
Welcome
Onboard
REVIEWS
Round-up
To all who fly with us,
The main news from me is that I will be retiring at the end of 2018. Having been a
co-founder of Safarilink and its Managing Director for 15 years – and having been in
continuous employment for 50 years – it’s time for me to step down. I will, however,
remain on the board as a Director and a Shareholder.
8
I’d like to take this opportunity to welcome our new Chief Executive Officer, Alex
Avedi. Alex comes to us from the Kenya Airports Authority, where he was General
Manager, Operations and Safety. Prior to that Alex was with Kenya Airways where he
worked in a number of roles for 12 years, most recently Director, Corporate Quality,
Safety, Security and Environment. Alex has impressive qualifications including a Post
Graduate Diploma in Advanced Aviation Management from the University of Geneva.
I’m confident that under his leadership and guidance, Safarilink will continue to
expand and develop its aviation presence in the region.
DESTINATION
Kisumu
In this issue, we introduce our newest destination: Kisumu. This lakeside town has an
enticingly warm climate, a host of markets, some hip rooftop bars – and a number of
curious legends. Take a boat out on the lake, stop off at an island or two, then treat
yourself to Kisumu’s famed fish dishes.
We also bring you Book Bunk: two enterprising ladies who are determined to renovate
Kenya’s libraries. And we showcase Lamu, an ancient island that has rebranded
itself with some fun and funky festivals. Famed photographers and conservationists
Jonathan and Angie Scott discuss the traditions of the Maasai – along with their awardwinning
photos of these colourful people. Check out our reviews of what’s new and
what’s hot around the country, and don’t miss the fabulous events in our calendar.
CULTURE
Lamu
John Buckley
Managing Director
CALLING ALL AMATEUR
PHOTOGRAPHERS
Send us your best photos of all things Kenyan and
win two nights for two at Shimoni Reef Lodge, with
return flights to Diani provided by Safarilink.
For more information go to page 26.
DISCLAIMER
The Link is published for Safarilink Aviation by Creative Edge.
All rights reserved. The content and opinions expressed do not
necessarily represent those of Safarilink, the publisher nor of any
other organisation associated with this publication. No liability can
be accepted for any inaccuracies or omissions. Reproduction of
published material in whole or part is strictly forbidden.
Subscribe online: www.flysafarilink.com/the link
Publisher:
Creative Edge Ltd.
P.O Box 43578 - 00100 Nairobi, Kenya
Tel: +254 (02) 374 4122, 375 0665
Email:publishing@creative.co.ke
www.creative.co.ke
Writer and Editor: Tamara Britten
Contributors: Jonathan & Angela Scott
/flysafarilink
@flysafarilink
3 OCT – DEC 2018 ISSUE 31

EVENTS CALENDAR
17 – 21 OCTOBER
SKÅL INTERNATIONAL
WORLD CONGRESS
Over 1,000 international delegates from
the tourism industry are expected in
Mombasa for the annual Skål World
Congress. Founded in 1932, Skål is
the only international group uniting
all branches of the travel, tourism and
hospitality industries and comprises
managers and executives. The muchanticipated
event will include discussions,
workshops and excursions – as well as
an opening ceremony at Fort Jesus,
a beach party at Sarova Whitesands
Resort and the President’s Gala Dinner
at PrideInn Paradise.
www.congress.skalkenya.or.ke
4 NOVEMBER
RUN WILD NEW YORK
CITY MARATHON
For the tenth year running, the Maasai
Wilderness Conservation Trust is entering
a team in the challenging New York City
Marathon. Runners wishing to be a part
of this not only have to be physically
fit – but also commit to raising at least
5,000 USD. All the funds raised go to
the trust’s programmes in conservation,
education, health and livelihoods. Join
the team and run with the Maasai – or
donate to this worthy cause.
www. maasaiwilderness.org/runwild/
ANNUAL AITONG
MEDICAL CAMP
At the seventh annual medical camp,
Safarilink, together with Land & Life
Foundation and the Kicheche Community
Trust, will be providing medical supplies
and highly trained medical personnel.
Last year over 1,200 patients received
free treatment that they would otherwise
be unable to afford for ailments including
paediatric, orthopaedic and dental.
www.flysafarilink.com/CSR/annual_
aitong
Image: Safarilink
29 – 31 OCTOBER
Image: Maasai Wilderness Conservation Trust
22 – 25 NOVEMBER
LAMU CULTURAL FESTIVAL
Image: Magical Kenya
Held in the picturesque alleys and
seafront of the UNESCO World Heritage
Site of Lamu, the Lamu Cultural Festival
celebrates all things Swahili. With art
exhibitions, traditional music, local
dances, food bazaar, henna painting
and more there’s something here for
everyone. Swimming races, canoe races,
donkey races and football competitions
are keenly contested – as is the showcase
event: the ever-popular dhow race.
www.magicalkenya.com/what-to-do/
events-and-festivals/lamu-culturalfestival/
OCT – DEC 2018 ISSUE 31
4

5 – 17 NOVEMBER
23 – 25 NOVEMBER
REGENERATIVE
DESIGN: ADVANCED
PERMACULTURE
CERTIFICATION
COURSE
According to Bill Mollison, founder of the
permaculture movement, ‘Permaculture
is a philosophy of working with, rather
than against, nature.’ The team at
Barefoot Soulutions, a resourceful
and eco-conscious permaculture
consultancy service, is offering a
course in this organic technique. Grab
this chance and learn how to start your
own sustainable food system.
www.barefootsoulutions.com
XMAS BOX
The only three-day Christmas fair of the
season, come to stock up on goodies,
and to choose Christmas gifts for your
friends and family. With art, books,
fashion, furniture, jewellery and more,
there’s a wealth of treats to tempt you
here. Relax in the leafy green gardens
– and don’t miss the tantalising variety
of food and drink vendors.
www.thebox.co.ke
22 – 25 NOVEMBER
RUSINGA FESTIVAL
Image: Anthony Muwasu
Image: Barefoot Soulutions
Do you have an event or news you
wish to share with our readers?
Get in touch with us on
publishing@creative.co.ke
and we’ll help you spread the word.
On the historic Lake Victoria, Rusinga
Island is hosting its 7th annual
celebration of local culture and the arts.
This year, the theme is cultural diversity,
and the festival will be a cultural feast
that aims to bridge the gap between
cultures. Come to experience the Suba
people’s island ways, taste their dishes,
listen to their stories, dance to their
music and don their fashions. While
you’re there, don’t miss this chance
to take a boat trip to experience the
beauty of Africa’s largest lake: source
of the River Nile.
www.facebook.com/RusingaFestival/
5 OCT – DEC 2018 ISSUE 31

REVIEWS
Image: Mercado
MERCADO:
MEXICAN KITCHEN
AND BAR
This bright and stylish restaurant is the
place to spend your Sundays. Mercado’s
Sunday brunch menu showcases flavours
from around Mexico, and takes diners
on a trip through the country. With
cuisines from Mexico City and the Gulf
of Mexico – and everywhere in between
– these dishes are marinated, seasoned
and spiced to perfection. Cocktails are
served by the glass – or the pitcher
(if that doesn’t set your weekend on fire,
nothing will!)
www.mercado.co.ke
SERENITY SPA
Image: Shifteye Photography
IKIGAI, WESTLANDS
In a two-acre garden, this is the office
you’ve been dreaming of. The attractive
house has workspaces, meeting rooms,
outdoor desks, free parking and more.
Even better, there’s a dedicated wellness
consultant and dogs are welcome.
Roasted Truth Café serves fresh juices,
specialty coffee and a healthy lunch
menu. Become a member by renting an
office or pop in with a monthly package.
Its name Ikigai, meaning “Reason
for Being” in Japanese, is thoughtprovoking
yet apt.
www.ikigai.co.ke
Image: Serenity Spa
After your safari, where better to wash off the dust than Serenity Spa? Come for
therapeutic massage, scrub bar, mud bath, nails spa and stay for a shake designed
by the in-house nutritionist. Signature treatments include the Resurrection Package,
Full Body Jump Start and That Summer Feeling. With a welcoming atmosphere, and
specials for Mothers’ Day and Valentines, this is the place to refresh, rejuvenate and
rebalance.
www.serenityspa.co.ke
OCT – DEC 2018 ISSUE 31
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ANKOLE GRILL
Image: Acacia Premier
ACACIA PREMIER MILIMANI, KISUMU
With wood panelled walls, discreet
lighting and a bar that stretches along
the side of the restaurant, this new grill
is sure to turn heads. Named for the
iconic cattle of East Africa, Ankole takes
steak to a whole new level. Their soups,
salads, small plates and burgers are
all tasty, but it’s their dry aged steaks
that really steal the show. And the chilli
sauces – ranging from ‘vegetarian’ to
‘hatari’ – will enflame even the most
devout chilli-lovers.
www.ankole.co.ke
This recently established hotel is taking
Kisumu by storm – and that’s no wonder.
Its chic rooms range from standard to
presidential and most look out over the
sweeping waters of Lake Victoria. The
impressive conference centre includes
boardrooms and a ballroom, but the
most appealing feature of this hotel
has to be its restaurants. Choose from
Barista Coffee Lounge, Café Acacia,
Aqua Pool Bar and Grill, or the Buzz
Bar – and settle in for the evening.
www.acaciapremier.com
Image: Ankole Grill
7 OCT – DEC 2018 ISSUE 31

DESTINATION
Kisumu
Safarilink’s newest destination is home to a wealth of attractions.
Read on for why you should take advantage of this new flight route.
OCT – DEC 2018 ISSUE 31
8

DESTINATION
This temperate town on the shores
of Lake Victoria might appear
sleepy at first, but stay a few days
and its character will win your heart.
The lake that stretches out before the
town is one of the African Great Lakes.
It holds the honour of being Africa’s
largest lake, the world’s largest tropical
lake and the world’s second largest
freshwater lake. In terms of numbers,
the lake has a surface area of about
68,800km 2 and contains about 2,750km 3
of water. Statistics apart, the lake is a
huge expanse of water flowing towards
the horizon; from Kisumu there’s no sign
of the other shores, making it seem more
a sea than a lake.
This seaside feeling immerses the town,
augmented by the tropical flora and
balmy weather. Several resorts lie along
the banks of the lake, offering beaches,
basking and boat trips. The lake is home
to a high number of Nile crocodiles and
several species of turtles including
African helmeted turtles, variable mud
turtles and Williams’ mud turtles. Five
hundred species of haplochromine
cichlids are found here, most of them
endemic and some even now without
official names. Catfish, eels, crabs and
freshwater snails are also found here, but
the most popular fish – at least with the
local population, that is – are the tilapia
and Nile perch. Indeed, the people of
Kisumu eat these in such large quantities
that several species of non-native tilapia
and Nile perch were introduced (with
detrimental affect on the lake and its
resident species). It’s these that are
caught by Kisumu’s fishermen and
crafted by Kisumu’s cooks into the city’s
most popular dishes. Traditionally the
fish here were spiced with osuga – black
nightshade – but there are now many
varieties and flavours, and Kisumu’s fish
dishes are famed across Kenya.
Kiboko Bay and the nearby village of
Dunga are popular spots from which
to enjoy the lake. Once a simple fishing
port, this area is now much admired
by visitors to the town, and offers boat
trips, bird watching, hippo spotting and
searing sunsets over the lake.
Dunga Beach and Wetlands has a diverse
papyrus wetland ecosystem which the
local community is keen to protect. The
Dunga Beach Pedagogical Centre, led by
the community, promotes eco-cultural
tourism, supports conservation and
improves the livelihoods of the people.
Not far along the banks of the lake,
the Kisumu Impala Sanctuary is one
of Kenya’s smallest wildlife reserves,
measuring less that 1km 2 . It is home not
only to impala but to a variety of reptiles
and birds, and hippos lumber out of the
lake at night to graze here.
Kit Mikayi, nearly 30km from Kisumu,
is known as the weeping rock. The pile
of rocks appears to be a woman bowed
beneath a heavy load; legends assert she
has been weeping since her husband
took a second wife. The religious group
Legio Maria – Legion of Mary – to which
many of the Luo people adhere, come
often to the rock to pray.
To experience Kisumu like a local, first
head for the Maasai Market and Art
Market and browse the creative local
artefacts, then grab a ride to Lwangni
Beach or Tilapia Beach where rows of
beachfront stalls grill fish fresh from the
lake. Fill your stomach with these local
delicacies and later – if you dare – head
into town for a taste of Kisumu’s vibrant
nightlife: current favourites include
Baccadia, Buccaneers, Samba Marina,
Da Place, Vimba, Area 51 and Signature.
WHERE TO STAY
Acacia Premier
With several levels of rooms, conference
facilities, spa, gym, pool and four
exceptional food and beverage options,
this hotel offers the full hotel experience.
Come for meetings, events and holidays.
Imperial Hotel
In the heart of the city, Imperial Hotel
was one of the first hotels in Kisumu
and offers stylish luxury. Come for fully
equipped suites, conference facilities,
fine dining, pool, sauna and gym.
Image: Rusinga Island Lodge
Rusinga Island Lodge
On a lush island in Lake Victoria, this
lodge has six thatched cottages, tropical
gardens, wellness spa, and floodlit pool.
Come for tranquil atmosphere, lake views
and water-based activities.
9 OCT – DEC 2018 ISSUE 31

DESTINATION
Kiboko Bay Resort
This lovely resort on the banks of Lake
Victoria has nine luxury tented suites
and a deluxe self-catering cottage. Come
for beach views, boat trips, relaxed
atmosphere, delectable food and a top
wine list.
Mfangano Island Camp
With six rondavals on the lakefront,
this camp centres on a spacious opensided
lounge and dining room. Come for
bird watching, fishing, water skiing and
visiting the local villages.
Sovereign Hotel
This hotel offers rooms and apartments,
spacious gardens and ornate architecture,
but is perhaps best known for its range
of cuisines: Continental, Indian, African
and Japanese, and cocktails mixed to
the sound of jazz.
Image: Mfangano Island Camp
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
Dunga Hill Camp
Looking out over the lake, this camp
offers local dishes such as choma
platters, stews, curries, samosas and
chicken wings. Come at the weekends
for live music and hip parties.
Roan Rooftop
On an appealing rooftop, this restaurant
serves a range of cuisines, including
continental grills, Indian flavours, local
dishes and a delectable list of seafood
options.
HOLIDAY
PACK AGES
The Laughing Buddha
Operating in the manner of a food court,
this friendly bar and café has a bunch of
menus including Indian, Mexican, Italian,
light bites, vegetarian, coffees, pastries
and cocktails.
Buddy’s Bar and Grill
With pizzas, grills, roasts, snacks and
beers, this joint offers a taste of local life.
Expect live bands and karaoke singers.
The Duke of Breeze
With a sports bar and rooftop bar,
this place offers views, cocktails and
a selection of dishes from around the
world.
Fish 4 a deal offers an excellent range of vacation DEALS across the country.
We offer homes, villas and apartments from around Kenya
Proudly
KENYAN
www.fish4adeal.com
BOOK WITH US NOW!
+254 712 442 244 info@fish4adeal.com
BEST
PRICE
KISUMU TIMETABLE
FROM TO DEP ARR
Wilson Kisumu 10:45 11:35
Kisumu Wilson 11:55 12:45
Wilson Kisumu 17:45 18:35
Kisumu Wilson 19:00 19:50

CULTURELINK
Image: Paul Munene
BREATHING LIFE
INTO LIBRARIES
In 2012, two young writers walked into Nairobi’s McMillan Memorial Library – and walked
out broken-hearted. But far from losing hope, they were inspired to act.
When Angela Wachuka and
Wanjiru Koinange decided
they wanted to use public
spaces for Kwani’s Literary Festival, little
did they know this decision would change
their lives. On their foray around Nairobi
they encountered many spaces that were
run down and neglected but, since both
women have a literary background and a
love of books, most painful to them was
the sight of the demise of the McMillan
Memorial Library.
Image: Paul Munene
Established in 1931, the library is an
imposing edifice in the centre of Nairobi.
The second oldest library in Kenya, it
was built by Lady McMillan in memory
of her husband, US philanthropist
Sir William Northrup McMillan. At that
time the building housed a lending
library, reference library and reading
room, and operated a circulating library
that extended around East Africa.
At its zenith, the library had over 200,000
books, reference materials, maps, slides
and reels of microfilm, and was visited
by around 500 people a day.
OCT – DEC 2018 ISSUE 31
12

FEATURE
Now, the grand façade – grey stone,
towering columns and regal lions –
stands before a scene of decay. Empty
bookcases are scattered before bare
walls; dog-eared books lie in dusty piles;
broken chairs are jammed into corners.
The two women took up the challenge.
Wanjiru is a writer whose debut novel,
The Havoc of Choice, will be published by
Jacaranda UK in March 2019. With an MA
in Creative Writing from the University
of Cape Town and a horde of articles
published in journals and magazines
around Africa under her belt, she was
not going to let the children of her home
town Nairobi grow up without books.
Angela, long time publisher of African
fiction, has served as executive director
of literary organisation Kwani Trust, and
as secretary to a national film committee;
she believes libraries have a huge roll
to play in the intellectual formation of
a people. One of the founding members
of the Creative Economy Working Group
that aims to influence policies related to
the creative sector in Kenya, Angela is
excited about returning public spaces to
the community, and working to help the
community better understand that these
are their spaces and can be manned
better and deliver better services.
Image: Paul Munene
In 2017, Angela and Wanjiru registered
Book Bunk as a trust and, shortly
afterwards, signed an agreement with
the County Government. With the help
of CEC Janet Ouko, a motion was passed
at the County Assembly and Book Bunk
took on not one but three libraries:
McMillan, Makadara and Kaloleni.
‘Our initial step was audience research,’
says Angela. ‘We needed to know who
uses the libraries and what they use
them for, as well as what collections
exist. The British Council gave us the
initial grant to do this and we shared
everything we’d learned at our first
public event in the McMillan Library
in June.’
What they learned was crucial: the
audiences in each space were different.
Kaloleni, located near a primary school
and sharing a compound with a social
hall, is used more by children; this
inspired them to make this a children’s
library and they’ve already initiated
storytelling and film screening events.
Makadara is mostly used by young adults
so they plan to fashion the library to
the needs of this age group. McMillan,
in the centre of Nairobi, has a wider
catchment and will cater to everyone.
The next step is making an inventory.
Estimating that across the three libraries
there are 400,000 books and artefacts,
Image: Paul Munene
13 OCT – DEC 2018 ISSUE 31

FEATURE
Image: Paul Munene
Image: Paul Munene
Image: Paul Munene
Angela and Wanjiru have assigned a
team of university students to make
a record of all assets. The last phase
will be restoration work. They’ve done
architectural assessments on all three
buildings – and all three are sound. Now
they can use the information they’ve
gathered to direct them during the
redesign stage.
‘We feel strongly that public spaces
should be free and inclusive,’ says
Angela. ‘As Nairobi hyper-privatises.
we’re going more and more into our
own enclaves. The majority of Nairobi’s
population lives in one section of the
city while all the arts spaces are on the
other side. There are few places where
you can hold public events. We’re doing
callouts for artists to use the spaces for
visual arts exhibitions, book launches,
film screenings, storytelling sessions,
arts and crafts workshops. We want
to be a conduit for that kind of event.’
They’re also keen to update the book
collections. The McMillan Library was
initially open only to Europeans, and
the majority of its books are from the
colonial era. Indeed, since the library
was handed over to the city just before
independence, few books have been
added to its shelves. There’s a clear
need for contemporary books, and books
by African writers, so Book Bunk is
producing a list of those they desire.
Book Bunk is now reaching out
to corporates and individuals,
philanthropists and donors, as well
as companies that would like to initiate
a CSR project, for funding.
‘A lot of these projects have to happen
in tandem,’ says Angela. ‘There are so
many moving parts. We’re redesigning
the spaces, building public bathrooms,
installing WiFi, organising events. And
we’re learning a lot about politics. We’re
trying to balance everything. It’s exciting.
There’s a huge opportunity for vibrancy,
and we’re creating vibrant spaces that
service the creative needs of whole
segments of our communities.’
For more information on Book Bunk, or
to contribute to their inspiring projects,
go to http://bookbunk.org
OCT – DEC 2018 ISSUE 31
14

KARLIE KLOSS
#BrillianceForAll
SHOP THE NEW HOLIDAY COLLECTION
STARTING AT KSH 21’000
TWO RIVERS MALL
LIMURU ROAD
NAIROBI, KENYA
STORE OPENING TIMES :
MONDAY - SUNDAY 10:00 - 19:00
TEL : +254 788 108 108

WILDLIFE
WILDLIFE
WARRIORS
An inventive new project aims to convert
Kenya’s children into young conservationists.
WildlifeDirect has initiated
something unique. In
collaboration with Storymoja,
a Kenyan publishing house, and with
funding from Safaricom, a mobile
network operator, they are creating
activity books for children featuring
different animals. Each book introduces
kids – in a fun and stimulating way – to
a particular animal, with information on
the sub-species, the way their families
are organised, what they eat and drink
– and how much per day – and what
their behavioural habits are.
Fun fact: Did you know that if an
elephant fills its trunk it can hold 10
litres of water?
The books introduce children to real
animals that are living in the national
parks and reserves of Kenya today,
with photos and descriptions of them,
and stories about their lives. Sections
are devoted to where the animals are
found and the threats they’re facing.
And of course, there are facts and
figures about the poaching trade
and its horrifying decimation of the
populations of endangered species. At
the end of each book, a string of hot
tips gives kids ideas about what they
can do to help. With multi-coloured
maps, cartoon pictures and plenty
of fun facts, these books are sure to
attract children and open their eyes to
the problems facing our animals today.
Fun fact: Did you know that an adult
rhinoceros can eat 50kg of vegetation
in a day, and produces 23kg of dung?
Storymoja is the ideal partner for this
project as so many of their books are
written for children. Their slogan – a
book in every hand – speaks for their
intention to interest children in the
world of stories. Using arts and crafts,
dance, drama and music, Storymoja
brings stories alive. They also have
Image: WildlifeDirect
16
OCT – DEC
2018
ISSUE S
31
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WILDLIFE
Image: WildlifeDirect
Image: WildlifeDirect
a Start A Library project, a bunch of
creative writing workshops, and publish
your own book sessions. Every year on
the last Friday in January, they hold
the National Read Aloud Day; last year
more than 200,000 students from 1,097
schools across 44 counties took part.
Image: WildlifeDirect
Fun fact: the spotted coat of each
giraffe is totally different from any
other giraffe, in the same way that
people’s fingerprints are.
By targeting Kenya’s children,
WildlifeDirect hopes to spread the love
of animals in a way that might lead
to an interest in conservation. At the
same time, WildlifeDirect is running
Watoto Porini – Children in the Park
– an outreach programme that brings
children between the ages of eight
and 12 into Kenya’s national parks and
reserves. Through day trips and longer
camping trips, they’re teaching children
about the environment, endangered
species, and the conservation efforts
of scientists and communities. Both
these projects aim to make conservation
enjoyable and relevant to children in the
hope of producing a new generation of
Wildlife Warriors.
For more information about WildlifeDirect:
www.wildlifedirect.org
For more information about Storymoja:
www.storymojaafrica.co.ke
17 OCT – DEC 2018 ISSUE 31

CULTURELINK
WILDLIFE
LIFE
CONGRATULATIONS TO
ALASTAIR PHILLIPS OUR
WINNER OF JULY-SEPT AMATEUR
PHOTOGRAPHY COMPETITION
The photo was captured on the way back to camp in the Maasai Mara
OCT
– DEC 2018
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3
ISLAND OF FESTIVALS
Image: Tamara Britten
Having come to fame over a thousand years ago as a port on the ancient trade routes,
the ancient island of Lamu has rebranded itself in a unique and exciting way.
Lamu
CULTURE

CULTURE
Cultural Festival
22-25 November
The Lamu Cultural Festival was
established in 2001 at the start of the
new millennia – the year UNESCO
designated Lamu Old Town a World
Heritage Site and dubbed it ‘the oldest
and best preserved Swahili settlement
in East Africa.’ Showcasing the island
and its traditions, the festival combines
all aspects of Swahili culture. During
the four-day event, Lamu Town is a
rainbow of colours with flags, banners
and streamers fluttering from every
building. Traditional dancers spin
around the town square; swimmers
race through the sea; donkeys career
along the waterfront; musicians belt
out local hits; lute players serenade the
crowds and acrobats whirl through the
air. And there’s more: henna painting,
food bazaar, crafts exhibitions, gala
dinners, football competitions and of
course – this is Lamu after all – there’s
a keenly fought dhow race.
Maulidi
Third month of Muslim Calendar
In celebration of Prophet Mohammed’s
birthday, Maulidi is celebrated across
the Muslim world. In Lamu, prayers and
processions take place in and around
all the mosques, especially Riyadha
Mosque, revered as a centre of Islamic
learning. In the mosques’ courtyards,
mosque elders give recitals from the
Koran about the life of the prophet.
In the evenings, traditional music and
dancing fills the squares. Stick dancing
is one of Lamu’s favourite traditions –
participated in or watched by most of the
island folk. Appearing almost a martial
art, the Stick Dance sees men moving
around each other, twirling their sticks
and stepping in rhythm to the beat of
the drum. On the last day of Maulidi, the
competitions begin: football matches,
swimming races, donkey races and
dhow races.
New Year’s Day Dhow Race
1st January
Lamunians love a good dhow race, and
none more so than the first of the year.
Regardless of how big the party was the
night before, Lamu captains and their
crews are on their vessels good and early,
ready to set sail. The traditional boats
that in bygone days ploughed up and
down the trade routes carrying spices,
gold, porcelain, tortoiseshell and ivory
now line up outside Peponi Hotel. When
the starter cracks, the dhows take off
down the channel, whipping around the
buoys and skimming towards the finish
line. The excitement of the crowd is
palpable – and loud! Whether they’re
watching from the shore or following
the race in their boats, all eyes are fixed
on the dhows, white sails gleaming in
the sun, cruising towards the muchanticipated
prize.
CULTURE
Shela Hat Contest
February
Possibly the most bizarre, ostentatious
and well-loved festival in the Lamu
calendar is the Shela Hat Contest. Patron
of the Arts and long time resident of
Shela, Herbert Menzer, saw the locals
of Lamu labouring under homemade
hats that protected them from the sun’s
glare. The artist in Herbert remarked at
the ingenious and unusual hats – and
the idea was born. On an island so full of
creatives, the competition – which started
in 2010 – was an immediate hit. Now
known as the Mad Hatters Contest, the
event calls on the folk of Lamu to design
vivid and vibrant headpieces. Watching the
procession of hats – created from pipes,
bones, shells, leaves, fabrics, coral and
anything else to hand, and often inlaid
with ironic and satirical messages – is
a sight not to be missed.
Image: T amara Britten
OCT – DEC 2018 ISSUE 31
20

Art Festival
February
If ever a place was made for an art
festival, Lamu is it. Even if you’re not an
artist, just being on the island is enough
to prompt you to take up a camera or an
easel. The fusion of Swahili architecture,
aromatic spices, ornate crafts and
innovative people ignites the senses in
ways few places do. In 2016, in the days
preceding the already popular Shela Hat
Contest, the Lamu County Government
established the Lamu Art Festival.
Artists from around the world come for
residencies, presentations, workshops
and exhibitions, and international artists
collaborate with local artists to create
new works inspired by Lamu itself.
Zihan Kassam, artist and art curator,
says: ‘Lamu has long understood the
artistic ingredients that bring splendour
and luxury to everyday life’.
Image: Herbert Menzer
Food Festival
April
Swahili food is one of Kenya’s most
favoured – and flavoursome – cuisines.
The plethora of fresh fish in the sea gives
the Swahili people the foundation for
many of their dishes; cooked in coconut,
steamed in lime, marinated in spices or
tossed in tomato and onion, fish has never
tasted so good. In celebration of their
cuisine, the people of Lamu initiated a
Food Festival in 2015. Traditional cooks
and vendors set up stalls along the
seafront and prepare their choice of
dishes under the watchful eyes of the
locals. During the cooking competition,
chefs from around the country debate
the merits of samosas and chapattis,
pilau and biryani, prawns and crab, while
onlookers wander around the stalls
eyeing the colourful dishes hungrily.
CULTURELINK
Yoga Festival
18-22 March
The Lamu Yoga Festival hit the headlines
when DoubleTree by Hilton voted it the
top yoga festival in the world worth
travelling for. The festival started in
2014 and is now approaching its sixth
year. Every March, yogis from around
the world flood the island in a wave of
litheness, colour and movement. In 2018,
26 yoga teachers offered 150 classes in
styles as diverse as acroyoga, stand-up
paddleboard yoga, core yoga, restorative
yoga and aerial yoga. The festival also
incorporates the more traditional yoga
styles of ashtanga, yin and vinyasa flow,
as well as chanting, drumming, dancing,
dune walks and dhow cruise meditations.
According to founder Monika Fauth, the
festival’s success comes from: ‘the quality
of the yoga, the calibre of the teachers,
and the beauty of Lamu Island.’
Image: Neil Thomas
LAMU FLIGHT TIMETABLE
FROM TO DEP ARR
Wilson Lamu 13:45 15:30
Lamu Wilson 16:00 18:00
21 OCT – DEC 2018 ISSUE 31

CSR
SAVING
MOUNT KENYA FOREST
On the northern slopes of Mt
Kenya, Africa’s second highest
mountain, huge areas of land
are being restored to natural forest. In
2009, Mount Kenya Trust and Safarilink
began working together as part of an
initiative to manage the airline’s carbon
emissions through planting trees. So
far this year, Safarilink has planted
4,000 indigenous seedlings on the
slopes of Mount Kenya. Through this
initiative, community members care for
a small parcel of land until the canopy
closes and, in the meantime, earn an
income from the land by planting crops
between the young trees.
Theresia (28) has been farming at
Karuri on Mt Kenya for four years. She
has been allocated one acre of land, on
which she’s planted rows of indigenous
trees. Between the trees, Theresia
practises crop rotation, alternating
between green peas and potatoes each
season – Kenya’s magnificent climate
and fertile soil afford two harvests a
year. This practice has proven profitable
for Theresia; it’s also good for the soil
and helps the trees grow.
Trees Establishment Livelihood
Improvement Scheme
Mount Kenya Trust works to protect
and conserve the people, forest,
water and wildlife around Mount
Kenya. In collaboration with the
Kenya Forest Service, they run the
Trees Establishment Livelihood
Improvement Scheme, a scheme that
allows communities living adjacent to
the forest to cultivate agricultural crops
during the early stages of seedling
growth: the first four or five years. As
part of the contract, TELIS farmers
have to protect and maintain the trees
on their allocated plot of land – and
are given another plot once the forest
becomes too dense for farming.
Theresia’s life has changed since she
was allocated land at Karuri. Before
this, she worked on other people’s
Image: Safarilink
Image: Safarilink
Safarilink Team
OCT – DEC 2018 ISSUE 31
22

CSR
farms, for which she was poorly paid.
The profits from her plot have opened
up new opportunities: Theresia has
been able to buy her own land and has
invested in cows which provide her
with milk to sell at the local market.
Theresia no longer worries about the
cost of sending her two children to
school. Tree planting remains close
to Theresia’s heart; she believes the
rehabilitation of the forest is a worthy
project and is happy to plant and take
care of the trees whilst making a profit.
extensive destruction of the mountain
ecosystem. Eight threats to the forest
were identified: encroachment, logging,
charcoal production, clear felling,
growing of marijuana, landslides,
livestock grazing and fires.
Many of these threats remain today.
To protect the areas where new trees
are being planted through the TELIS
scheme, Mount Kenya Trust has set up
Restoring the Karuri forests
Mount Kenya Trust and Safarilink are
working to restore the forest cover.
The tree species are chosen based
on the natural forest in the area; the
seeds are collected from the areas in
which they’re to be planted, ensuring
suitability for altitude and rainfall
levels. They’re raised to a suitable size
for planting in tree nurseries run by
womens’ groups and self help groups.
Mount Kenya Trust has had excellent
results for forest restoration using
the TELIS scheme: the trees benefit
from the constant care of farmers and
communities feel the benefits from
the very start – rare for tree planting
projects. From a one-acre plot, an
individual can expect to earn around
160,000 KSh per year.
One of the most impressive landscapes
in Africa
Mount Kenya’s Afro-montane forests,
vast bamboo stands and moorlands
host an incredible biodiversity, including
numerous species of concern to the
International Union for Conservation
of Nature. These include the African
elephant and mountain bongo, as well
as 81 endemic plant species.
The Mount Kenya Forest is one of the
largest contiguous forests remaining
in Kenya. The mountain is a UNESCO
World Heritage Site, described in
1999 as: ‘one of the most impressive
landscapes of Eastern Africa, with
its rugged glacier clad summits,
Afro-Alpine Moorlands and diverse
forests, which illustrate outstanding
ecological processes.’ But these
ecosystems have been degraded and
are still under threat. A detailed aerial
survey, carried out in 1999 by the United
Nations Environmental Programme
and Kenya Wildlife Service, found
Image: Safarilink Image: Safarilink
security teams made up of volunteers
from the local community: the Mount
Kenya Youth Frontiers. This group
plays an important role in protecting
the TELIS plots from being destroyed
by wildlife and protecting the forest
from loggers and poachers. They also
monitor the tree planting process,
ensuring the trees are well planted
and taken care of.
These groups sell their seedlings and
benefit collaboratively from the income,
some groups providing micro-finance
lending. Members have been able
to improve the lives of their families
through group savings; one group has
helped individuals to set up a shop,
purchase a chaff cutter and even buy
a pedigree cow.
23
OCT – DEC 2018 ISSUE 31

CULTURELINK
Although I’ve always loved
spending time in the company
of wild animals, it was inevitable
that at some point Angie and I would
focus on our Maasai friends. Over the
years we’ve celebrated the colourful
rites that mark important transitions
in the lives of every Maasai man and
woman.
We’ve shared the carefree days of their
childhood, borne witness to the test of
character and maturity circumcision
represents, shared their
pride at
becoming warriors and respected
elders, and their joy at marriage and the
birth of children. It’s hardly surprising
that on the day we were married atop
the Siria Escarpment, a thousand feet
above the Mara’s rolling plains, the
Maasai came to visit. We were relaxing
around the campfire when a Maasai
elder and his wife approached from
the shadows. They’d been waiting all
evening to honour us as elders, and had
a beautiful beaded necklace for Angie
and an ornate rungu – wooden club – for
me. The following day we took our family
to the village and our Maasai friends
welcomed us with song and dance.
Those ancient rituals stir the heart and
soul like nothing else. To awaken before
dawn to the singing of warriors, riors, their
breath smoke-like in the
chill air as
the young men gather to drive a bull to
slaughter, streaming backlit down the
hillside against the rising sun, is to step
back in time to an existence in which
myths and legends fire the imagination.
Image: Jonathan and Angela Scott
KINGDOM
OF WARRIORS
By Jonathan and Angela Scott
OCT
– DEC
2018
ISSUE
31
24
I remember m
watching in silence as a
dozen red-robed warriors from Tanzania
sought the counsel of the Laibon –
spiritual leader er of the Maasai – on the
forested Loita Hills, having travelled
many kilometres through wild country
to ask for his guidance. The Laibon
spread a cowhide before us and threw
a collection on of stones passed down

WILDERNESS DIARIES
through generations of shamans so he
might commune with the spirit world.
Standing tall against the blue sky,
he showered the warriors with fresh
milk spat from a long-necked gourd to
Image: Jonathan and Angela Scott
Image: Jonathan and Angela Scott
speed them on their way. Energised by
the ritual, the warriors raced alongside
our vehicle or clung to its sides, running
and laughing, as a cloud of dust rose in
our wake.
Nobody is sure where the Maasai
evolved. The origins of the Maa-speaking
tribes – the Maasai and Samburu – are
shrouded in mystery. There are no
written records to help unravel the past,
though the Maasai pride themselves on
a rich tradition of oral literature passed
through the generations and enshrined
in time-honoured ceremonies. Clues
may be found in Egypt, Sudan and
Ethiopia where place names of Maasai
origin are still evident. What’s certain is
that the Maasai migrated into East Africa
from the north during the 15th century,
earning a reputation as fearless warriors
in their pursuit of land and cattle.
Traditionally the Maasai have occupied
areas unrivalled in beauty and rich in
soil, adopting a form of land tenure
similar to that of the wild herds with
whom they shared the pastures. Their
benign attitude to wild creatures,
such a contrast to man’s depredations
elsewhere, could be construed as a
form of active wildlife conservation.
It’s certainly one of the reasons
Maasailand still has the greatest array
of wild animals of anywhere in Africa.
Because their culture sees cattle as food
and sustenance, wild animals could in
most cases be ignored. Sharing the wide
open spaces with herds of wildebeest
and zebra was not so much a choice as
a necessity.
As the Maasai make the difficult
transition from nomadic pastoralism to
a more sedentary way of life embracing
individual ownership of land, it’s
essential they’re able to meet their
development needs and become part
of the cash economy. The creation
of wildlife conservancies bordering
the Maasai Mara National Reserve is
providing a beacon of hope for both
local communities and wildlife. The
title holders of hundreds of individually
owned plots of land have agreed to
lease their land to tourism partners
in a union meant to benefit the land
owners and allow tourism to prosper.
With wise and sustainable stewardship,
this land offers a less crowded safari
experience for visitors. As the sun sets
on the colourful world of the Maasai
warriors, there’s real hope they can
share in the riches of modern day
Kenya and Tanzania while retaining the
essence of their vibrant culture.
Jonathan and Angie Scott live in Kenya and spend
much of their time in the company of African
wildlife. Their wildlife photography, wildlife pencil
drawings and wildlife books have won awards and
recognition throughout the world while their stock
images are represented by some of the world’s
top photographic agencies such as Getty Images,
NHPA and Heritage Images/ImageState. The Scotts
have featured in numerous television series, the
best known being the ‘Big Cat Diaries’, the ‘Big
Bear Diary’ and the ‘Elephant Diaries’. Angie Scott
was awarded the 2002 Wildlife Photographer
of the Year Award, and Jonathan Scott the 1987
Wildlife Photographer of the Year Award, The Royal
Geographical Society Cherry Kearton Medal (1994)
and The African Travel and Tourism Association
Award (1996). The Scotts have dedicated much of
their lives to wildlife conservation and are patrons
of a number of wildlife conservation societies.
Photography Tips:
Prevent blurry pictures by matching
shutter speed to the lens focal length
For example, if you’re using a 50mm lens
you should use shutter speeds of 1/50 sec
or faster to be able to capture handheld
images and keep them sharp. Longer
lenses are heavier and more difficult to
keep steady — making the shutter speed
faster helps avoid camera shake.
25
OCT – DEC 2018 ISSUE 31

LINK UP
The Fleet
Caravan C208B
Manufacturer: Cessna Aircraft Co., USA
Crew: 2 pilots
Passengers: max 12
Powerplant: 1 x Pratt & Whitney PT6A-
114 turbo-prop engine developing 675
shaft horsepower
Fuel: Jet-A1
Cruise speed: 165 mph
No. in fleet: 9
Registrations: 5Y-SLA, 5Y-SLB,
5Y-SLE, 5Y-SLG, 5Y-SLH, 5Y-ZBI,
5Y-LEO, 5Y-SLI, 5Y-5LJ
Description: a rugged workhorse with
fixed undercarriage and good all round
visibility
Market valuation: approx
$1.2m (5Y-SLA) to $2.3m (5Y-SLI)
Dash 8-106
Manufacturer: Dehavilland, Canada
Crew: 2 pilots + 1 flight attendant
Passengers: max 37
Powerplants: 2 x Pratt & Whitney
PW121 turbo-prop engines each
delivering 2,000 shaft horsepower
Fuel: Jet-A1
Cruise speed: 225 mph
No. in fleet: 1
Registration: 5Y-SLD
Description: a pressurised commuter
aircraft
Market valuation: approx $3.5m
Dash 8-315
Manufacturer: Bombardier (formerly
de Havilland), Canada
Crew: 2 pilots + 2 flight attendants
Passengers: max 52
Powerplants: 2 x Pratt & Whitney
PW123E turbo-prop engines each
delivering 2,380 shaft horsepower
Fuel: Jet-A1
Cruise speed: max 330 mph / 522 km/h
No. in fleet: 1
Registration: 5Y-SLK
Description: a pressurised
commuter aircraft
Market valuation: approx $6.5m
WIN TWO NIGHTS FOR TWO AT SHIMONI REEF LODGE,
WITH RETURN FLIGHTS TO DIANI PROVIDED BY SAFARILINK
On the ancient Swahili Coast sits exquisite Shimoni Reef Lodge.
This hidden gem, enfolded in a canopy of tropical trees, has
panoramic views of crystal clear seas teeming with fish and
dolphins. Immerse yourself in the world of the water, diving
or snorkelling amongst coral gardens, turtles and starfish.
Try your hand at fishing, sailing or kite surfing. Take a dhow
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Email your photos with your full name, town of residence
and phone number to: publishing@creative.co.ke
Image: Shimoni Reef Lodge
Congratulations
We are pleased to announce that the winner of our last
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nights for two at Ekorian’s Mugie Camp.
*All photos entered must be the property of the entrant, and must have been taken in Kenya. Professional photographers may not apply.
Terms & conditions apply.

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27
OCT – DEC 2018 ISSUE 31

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