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PHILIPPINES XMAS DIVING<br />

St.SomeTimes<br />

Vol 211 December 2018<br />

Diving on the Live-a-board Infinity out of Cebú<br />

Contents<br />

............................<br />

PAGE 2<br />

Arrival in Manila<br />

............................<br />

PAGE 4<br />

Back in a developing<br />

nation - feelings<br />

............................<br />

PAGE 6<br />

Liveaboard Basics<br />

............................<br />

PAGE 8<br />

Infinity - Maiden<br />

Voyage or not?<br />

............................<br />

PAGE 12<br />

Underwater Pic s<br />

............................<br />

PAGE 13<br />

Five Star Diving<br />

............................<br />

PAGE 16<br />

Nudibranch Heaven<br />

............................<br />

PAGE 17<br />

Best Clown Photo<br />

I’ve Ever Taken<br />

............................<br />

PAGE 17<br />

Map of our Diving


Manila Airport has<br />

Beef Enpanadas<br />

and Beer - All I<br />

Really Need<br />

No Plan. No Idea of What<br />

Was to Come<br />

The flight from Saudi to Manila was<br />

a real treat. Yes, I could afford to go<br />

first class, but I don’t work that way. I<br />

wouldn’t have any stories.<br />

The Airbus 330 was packed to the<br />

brim. There must have been 200<br />

Filipinos and just one white guy. Ring a<br />

bell? I’ve been the odd one out so<br />

many times it’s hard to remember<br />

them all. Filipinos are generally small<br />

people. I had no leg room. However,<br />

when the Alpha flight attendant came<br />

around and asked if I needed to move,<br />

I declined. I don’t always like special<br />

treatment. She didn’t ask the really tall<br />

Filipino in the seat directly in front of<br />

me if HE wanted to move! So i stayed.<br />

It was an aisle seat. Good. I planned on<br />

drinking all of the plane’s beer. (It’s not<br />

easy going months without beer!) My<br />

seat was right near the bathrooms.<br />

That’s an Ok tradeoff for drinking a lot<br />

of beer on a flight, especially since an<br />

attendant came by every 10 minutes<br />

and sprayed vanilla in the air.<br />

I even dealt with the seat back not<br />

adjusting. It was against the wall. Uggh.<br />

Fine until the tall dude put HIS seat all<br />

the way back. Yes, I was in the Holiday<br />

spirit! Everyone was speaking a mix of<br />

English and Filipino/Spanish. It was a<br />

clean, cramped flight. There was beer<br />

and easy access to the WC -bathroom<br />

-washroom.<br />

Expect the Unexpected!<br />

I was just fine when they served<br />

beer after the<br />

first hour. It was<br />

a long wait, but<br />

rules dictated no<br />

alcohol while still<br />

in Saudi airspace.<br />

I was reading the<br />

most recent Jack Reacher book,<br />

sipping a beer in my cramped<br />

upright position. I was perfectly<br />

happy. Then the lights dimmed.<br />

The Filipino to my left, well, one<br />

over decided to watch a movie.<br />

(This international plane didn’t<br />

have ANY multimedia - no center<br />

screen, no individual headrest<br />

screens, but pantomiming<br />

attendants for safety.) Luckily for<br />

some, there were 110/220v plugs<br />

under the seats.<br />

As the lights dimmed, Dummy # 2<br />

GIVE ME UNLIMITED<br />

BEERS AND AN AISLE<br />

SEAT CLOSE TO THE<br />

BATHROOM - THEN<br />

I’M PERFECT.<br />

plugged in his supersized Galaxy<br />

Note to share a movie with<br />

Dummy # 1 next to me. It wasn’t<br />

the movie or the screen that<br />

bothered me. It wasn’t the lack of<br />

headphones. I plugged myself into<br />

my own headphones, ready for just<br />

such an instance.<br />

What I did not expect…dummy #<br />

2 had a red and blue “blinking”<br />

charge cord. Our entire row was<br />

flashing alternative red then blue<br />

like the beginning of “COPS”. Uggh.<br />

The entire flight was dark except<br />

for the crime scene of row 59! I<br />

kept my cool and waited to see<br />

what might happen next. Breathe<br />

in, out, in, out.<br />

The final straw was an hour later. I<br />

literally reached over Dummy #1<br />

and slapped Dummy # 2 on his<br />

head. Why? Because both he and<br />

dummy number<br />

1 had their<br />

blankets over<br />

their heads so<br />

they could<br />

SLEEP! WTF?<br />

Problem solved.<br />

The guy stared<br />

at me for a<br />

moment and<br />

then followed through with my<br />

request to stash his blinking terror<br />

in the seat pocket.<br />

The rest of the flight continued for<br />

six hours without a hitch. The little<br />

dude, dummy #1, actually<br />

apologized at the end of the flight<br />

and said “Welcome to the<br />

Philippines!” That was pretty cool.<br />

Unexpected and cool.<br />

“WELCOME TO THE<br />

PHILIPPINES!”<br />

MORE VOLUMES OF ST.SOMETIMES AT WWW.ITRE.US PAGE 2


Can you find the Candy Crab?<br />

<br />

MORE VOLUMES OF ST.SOMETIMES AT WWW.ITRE.US PAGE 3<br />

NATOQUE INTEGERIS VIVER FRINGILLA VIVERRA FERMENT TEMPOR PAGE 3


A “feeling” and Looking Back on<br />

Life in the Developing World<br />

Low Expectations<br />

It is now 2018, almost 2019, and the<br />

feelings have returned. Memories of<br />

South East Asia are being relived.<br />

Diving days are rehashed and brought<br />

to the forefront of my mind. My first<br />

night in Cebu cost me $25 for a small<br />

room before I board the yacht. Here is<br />

the room.<br />

✓ Cold Water Shower<br />

✓ Dirt Roads<br />

surrounding it<br />

✓ I Bought Smokes<br />

from a Woman’s<br />

cinderblock “store”<br />

in packs. She usually<br />

sells them a smoke<br />

at a time. The off<br />

duty cop was my<br />

decision maker on<br />

what kind of smokes<br />

to buy for the local<br />

divemasters.<br />

✓ The room included<br />

“free” air con - a<br />

step up from what I<br />

usually pay for<br />

✓ First time ever…the<br />

room included “free”<br />

toiletries - two small<br />

squares of soap and<br />

two “dental” kits - I<br />

paid for a double<br />

bed.<br />

✓ Cement floors<br />

✓ Shoddy electrical<br />

✓ Sorry, Jason, no bed<br />

bugs included this<br />

time<br />

La Di Dah. I forgot to continue the<br />

story of the trip. The plane was on<br />

time. We boarded at 2:30pm for our<br />

3:00pm departure. I had been drinking<br />

San Miguel Light since arriving in the<br />

Domestic departure area. They sold<br />

them in cans behind the counter with<br />

Beef or Chicken empanadas!<br />

We boarded and sat in the plane for<br />

an hour an a half! Don’t ask. Even<br />

though it was all in English, I couldn’t<br />

get more of the story than bits and<br />

pieces of mistakes in reservations and<br />

seating. My seat was “scrunched”<br />

again and my knee or shoulder would<br />

be “nudged” every time someone<br />

went to the bathroom. By 6pm (not<br />

4pm) I was standing in line behind<br />

some Spaniards for a taxi. I was happy<br />

because my bag had arrived at the<br />

same time I had.<br />

We stood in line for about two hours<br />

for the taxi. Why? I don’t know. It<br />

seems like the Philippines is all about<br />

waiting. Maybe it’s just “island time” all<br />

over again. I didn’t mind. No one was<br />

telling me I couldn’t eat pork or drink<br />

beer in line.<br />

There were two lines for taxis. I<br />

instigated a discussion with the couple<br />

in front of me because they were<br />

“misfits” like me…”white”. The girl<br />

spoke English but her boyfriend didn’t,<br />

so we spoke both. While the dude and<br />

I talked about their 15 day trek<br />

through the Philippines, the girl went<br />

up and asked why there was a short<br />

line (not moving) for the expensive<br />

Yellow Taxis and a really long line for<br />

the “White” (cheaper) taxis. According<br />

to the juvenile police officer, the short<br />

line wasn’t moving because there<br />

aren’t any “Yellow” taxis. Hah. We<br />

were in the correct line. The comment<br />

of “welcome to the Philippines” came<br />

to mind again.<br />

Henry, the “White Taxi”<br />

Diver<br />

No, he wasn’t white. He was a Filipino.<br />

Imagine, I had no idea where I was<br />

going. That’s why I stood in line and<br />

took a metered taxi from the airport.<br />

There is a reputation to uphold. If<br />

tourists - say a white dude fresh off<br />

the plane from a long trip with no idea<br />

where the Express Inn Macatina is - go<br />

missing, that’s bad for overall business.<br />

Hence, Greg in a long line for a Taxi he<br />

can trust more than a random “flag<br />

down a ride” kind of minibus or taxi. I<br />

really had no idea where I was going.<br />

(Travelers tend to actually do this<br />

quite a bit.) Did I mention that I always<br />

ask no less than two other sources<br />

(information desk or friendly local families<br />

I talk up during the trip) about taxis to<br />

trust.<br />

Finally, the Hotel<br />

Many single guys might take the<br />

opportunity to go “see the sights” or pick<br />

up some skanky local “companion” when<br />

they are in a big city in South East Asia.<br />

Not me.<br />

I was totally “bushed” when Henry finally<br />

dropped me off. I sat for twenty minutes<br />

on a bench while the front desk guy<br />

managed to order take out for the guests<br />

two in front of me. The restaurant was<br />

open so I ordered two beers while the<br />

front desk took care of a few more people<br />

at an “island” pace. Once I got my room<br />

key, it was bed time. I’ve lived in South East<br />

Asia long enough to know about what<br />

lurks out at night for American Expats. No.<br />

MORE VOLUMES OF ST.SOMETIMES AT WWW.ITRE.US PAGE 4


MORE VOLUMES OF ST.SOMETIMES AT WWW.ITRE.US PAGE 5<br />

NATOQUE INTEGERIS VIVER FRINGILLA VIVERRA FERMENT TEMPOR PAGE 5


Infinity Basics - A Liveaboard<br />

Take off your shoes, say<br />

goodbye, say hello to full<br />

service on the ship.<br />

The service starts immediately. I<br />

was picked up by the minivan and<br />

introduced to the owner of the<br />

ship. He had made a point to come<br />

and get us from our hotels. He<br />

was apologizing profusely for being<br />

late, but this is the Philippines and<br />

two days before Christmas.<br />

Taking off your shoes is the sign of<br />

diving. We were shown into the<br />

main galley to await our initial boat<br />

briefing. The ship was in action like<br />

a beehive. Everyone was doing<br />

something - loading supplies,<br />

unpacking gear, ferrying back and<br />

forth from the landing.<br />

Boat Briefing and Basics<br />

Every ship has it’s basic rules. No<br />

shoes. Don’t block the view of the<br />

captain if you go onto the<br />

foredeck. If we are moving, don’t<br />

be alone on top. Stay off the dive<br />

platform if we are moving. The<br />

food is here for you. Ask for<br />

anything you need. Let the cruise<br />

director know if something is not<br />

being done to your satisfaction.<br />

Nic, our cruise director let us<br />

know all of this while we sipped on<br />

cold beers. His first rule was drink<br />

and eat anything you want, but<br />

don’t expect to dive if you abuse<br />

the rule.<br />

We were set to dive an average of<br />

three dives a day. If we didn’t have<br />

to travel in the night, we might be<br />

able to do a fourth dive at night.<br />

Most likely, we wouldn’t.<br />

The schedule is generally to wake<br />

between 6 and 7am for a light<br />

breakfast and dive briefing. First<br />

dive is max 30m and for 60<br />

minutes or 50Bar/500psi. Then<br />

comes big breakfast with eggs,<br />

bacon, and the works.<br />

Second dive is about an hour later<br />

following another dive briefing. The<br />

second dive is shallower for the<br />

same dive time. Lunch is usually<br />

followed by an extended surface<br />

interval.<br />

The third dive briefing is around<br />

3pm which means we are in the<br />

water by 3:30 and back on the<br />

boat by 5pm, which is widely<br />

considered “beer o’clock”. The chef<br />

sets out a big spread dinner at 7pm<br />

and the ship is already moving to<br />

the next destination.<br />

Nitrox and Dive Skiffs<br />

Nitrox was included in the initial<br />

price! Divers not certified in<br />

Nitrox can take the course. Three<br />

out of ten divers chose to learn<br />

nitrox, so all of us were on the<br />

same gas mixture! Pretty cool.<br />

The dive groups remained the<br />

same throughout this trip. Nic<br />

either got lucky or just planned it<br />

perfectly. There are two dive skiffs<br />

to take us into the reefs. They hang<br />

on the back of the ship while<br />

traveling. Once at a sight, it is so<br />

easy to jump into the small boat<br />

and backroll into the blue. Reminds<br />

me of the “black ops” divers you<br />

see in movies. It was more surreal<br />

because both boat drivers carry<br />

shoulder walkie talkies and wear<br />

“ninja-like” facemarks to protect<br />

them from the sun’s rays.<br />

The Black Ninja was our<br />

follow boat captain. The<br />

other boat was a green<br />

ninja.<br />

NATOQUE INTEGERIS VIVER FRINGILLA VIVERRA FERMENT TEMPOR PAGE 6


MORE VOLUMES OF ST.SOMETIMES AT WWW.ITRE.US PAGE 7<br />

NATOQUE INTEGERIS VIVER FRINGILLA VIVERRA FERMENT TEMPOR PAGE 7


Turtles Everywhere<br />

✓ Some of our dives, like at Apo Island, were full of<br />

turtles. At one point, at a Safety Stop (5m for 3<br />

minutes at the end of each dive), I saw six turtles.<br />

That dive, everywhere you looked was another<br />

turtle. Perhaps it was all of the beautiful sea grass in<br />

the sandy shallows. Perhaps it was just the right<br />

temperature. Perhaps the sandy bottoms are<br />

preferred for turtle play? We all had a lot of fun<br />

with photos and videos of these gentle creatures. It<br />

sure is great to see them so plentiful.<br />

Basic Conditions and PUFF-Daddy<br />

✓ Most of our dives were between 30 meters (99ft) and 20<br />

meters (65ft). The water was a balmy 27°C/81°F. Very<br />

rarely, we would hit a current, but the dives were<br />

generally nice and calm. All the dives were drift dives,<br />

meaning the boat would follow us wherever we went.<br />

Easy diving all around.<br />

✓ This was a HUGE puffer fish that greeted us at the top of<br />

one reef. Look at those eyes! She wasn’t bothered by us.<br />

I think she was too busy being pregnant.<br />

MORE VOLUMES OF ST.SOMETIMES AT WWW.ITRE.US PAGE 8


The Sardines Run<br />

Have you ever seen the BBC Blue Planet special hosted by<br />

David Attenburough? There is a great part where they show<br />

the sardine run in South Africa. We got to experience the<br />

Sardine run in Moaboal,<br />

Philippines. Amazing.<br />

Our ship set anchor off of<br />

White Beach in Moaboal<br />

for our third dive of the<br />

day. It was rainy and<br />

overcast. There were<br />

Philippino boats<br />

everywhere along boueys<br />

and snorkelers jumping<br />

from the boats.<br />

I really didn’t feel like<br />

diving in such a populated<br />

place. All I could think of<br />

was trash and poor viz<br />

with a lot of humans<br />

around. Oh well, I jumped in anyway. Dan and I followed<br />

Kokoi down to about 20m and I was right, the viz was<br />

pretty poor. In fact, as we hit the coral wall that lines the<br />

bay, there was no sun at all. I figured it was the pollution.<br />

There sure were a lot of fish though. There were schools<br />

coming at us, below us, and all around us. Once I finally<br />

looked up to where Kokoi was pointing, it was darkness.<br />

But it was moving darkness. The darkness wasn’t polluted<br />

water or silt. It was a never ending bait ball of sardines!<br />

Incredible. I have never seen anything like it! They moved in<br />

waves, twisting in and out, gyrating like the swarms of<br />

sparrows in the sky.<br />

The sun would be blocked for minutes at<br />

a time, until a snorkeler would dive in<br />

and temporarily split the swarm. Then a<br />

random diver, like Dan, would swim into<br />

the bait ball to try and get video<br />

coverage. Too bad the viz wasn’t better. It<br />

had been raining for a few days and was<br />

pretty murky both in the shallows and at<br />

20 meters. We drifting along in the slow<br />

current for about 30 minutes before the<br />

sardine run disappeared.<br />

We were keeping vigilant for a thresher<br />

shark. They are known for hunting<br />

around the bait ball from time to time.<br />

However, it’s well known that only the<br />

very lucky divers ever experience a<br />

thresher sighting. No matter, just seeing millions of sardines<br />

at one time is exciting enough for me.<br />

NOTE: the bottom picture is mine. I added the top picture<br />

after a careful internet search. It is important to see the<br />

enormity of the experience. What I could photograph in<br />

such poor viz is nothing like we experienced with our own<br />

eyes. The clear picture above tells a better tale.<br />

MORE VOLUMES OF ST.SOMETIMES AT WWW.ITRE.US PAGE 9


Infinity’s Maiden Voyage out of Cebú?<br />

Transition Time<br />

The Infinity was originally in<br />

Thailand with a different owner.<br />

I’m not sure, but several of us<br />

onboard were discussing that it<br />

seemed to us, that this was the<br />

first time out.<br />

The crew is local. The captain has<br />

been transversing these waters for<br />

over 10 years. Our Ninja follow<br />

boat captain (also first mate) has<br />

been doing the same. Both of the<br />

main DMs were local and great<br />

guides. But it was a transition of a<br />

new ship to an experienced local<br />

crew and a new (yet experienced<br />

and foreign) cruise director.<br />

As of December of 2018, the<br />

owner had only had the ship for<br />

8months. Like I said, transition<br />

time.<br />

New Everything<br />

The boat was freshly painted. The<br />

dive gear was just out of the box.<br />

(Still in boxes the first night.) The<br />

two galley girls were unpacking<br />

brand new cutlery and plates. The<br />

designated camera room was<br />

storing all the boxes. It looked like<br />

the new owner had a pretty hefty<br />

Amazon bill from the diving and<br />

kitchen sections.<br />

Just a “Feeling”<br />

As it turned out, I still don’t know<br />

if this was the maiden voyage.<br />

There were a couple of things that<br />

happened that might not have<br />

happened on a more seasoned<br />

vessel.<br />

A Short List of Hiccups<br />

We certainly did not leave on time.<br />

The ship advertised 11am<br />

departure. I was picked up at 4pm.<br />

We didn’t leave until well after<br />

nightfall. The desalinator<br />

malfunctioned after the first full<br />

day of diving so we had to redirect<br />

to a port and resupply fresh water<br />

from two water trucks. Oh well.<br />

We had some great diving. Maybe,<br />

just maybe, these two were part of<br />

a maiden voyage.<br />

The third interference was an act<br />

of God, a tropical storm. We were<br />

set to do a fourth dive on our<br />

third day, but the Coast Guard sent<br />

out a level 1 tropical storm<br />

warning. We were several ship<br />

travel hours from the main port so<br />

the captain called off the dive and<br />

headed back to Cebu.<br />

If we had stayed at the dive site<br />

and the warning went to level 2,<br />

that would mean no sea travel. The<br />

ship would have to stay at the<br />

remote dive site and several of our<br />

divers would miss their planes<br />

home. The captain erred on the<br />

side of caution and took us home.<br />

Thankfully, the storm warning was<br />

lifted the next day. We traveled<br />

South of Cebu for our planned last<br />

day of three dives.<br />

Proof in Pictures<br />

December 22-29 was an excellent<br />

dive trip aboard the Infinity. I was<br />

impressed. The proof is in the<br />

pictures. I took several hundred<br />

pictures and put together a 12<br />

Air and Nitrox compressors<br />

are right on the back. Easy<br />

in and out. No tank<br />

changes. Absolute bliss.<br />

MORE VOLUMES OF ST.SOMETIMES AT WWW.ITRE.US PAGE 10


It’s rare to shoot one, much less two<br />

clownfish, looking at you.<br />

MORE VOLUMES OF ST.SOMETIMES AT WWW.ITRE.US PAGE 11<br />

PAGE 11


All of the pictures, except the bait ball on pg. 09 and the shadow of me diving on pg. 14 were taken with my Nikon AW130. Some were with a flashlight<br />

(torch) and many weren’t. I can only identify the fish. I am still learning the nudies and the corals. There is also such a wide variety of clownfish that I<br />

haven’t had the time to explore their identification yet. Hey, I still need something to do on my subsequent dives. Thank you Julian and KoKoi for helping<br />

PAGE 12


minute movie of the best video<br />

clips. If you ever want a fantastic<br />

experience diving, go INFINITY.<br />

The Infinity is Five Star Diving<br />

✓ I’ve done a wealth of diving and the dive part of this five<br />

star resort is exceptional. They help with gear, know the<br />

sites, lead dives with safety first, cater to your dive<br />

experience, and treat you very well. Their dive gear was in<br />

great condition (brand new, actually) and the tanks were<br />

filled consistently to limits/nitrox levels.<br />

✓ We dove the dive briefing plans with little modification.<br />

The follow boats were always there to get us right away.<br />

You cannot expect much more from a dive experience.<br />

Nic is a newly appointed Director, but the dive crew<br />

delivered a great experience. I cannot wait to hear about<br />

the Infinity once Nic and his -already- great team has had<br />

more time together.<br />

My Dive Buddies, My Diving Group<br />

✓ ThA big thank you goes out to Kokoi (photo next<br />

page). He really knows his trade. The first day he<br />

promised a frog fish. Nope! But the last ten minutes<br />

of the very last dive, he delivered. (page 9) Kokoi is<br />

one of the best dive guides I’ve had the pleasure to<br />

dive with.<br />

✓ My dive buddies Clint and Dan are excellent divers<br />

and underwater videographers. All of us dove well<br />

together, looked out for each other, and returned<br />

unharmed. I had a lot of fun sharing vids and pics<br />

from our dives with these guys. I’d dive with them<br />

again anytime.<br />

PAGE 13


Always Have Your Head “On a Swivel”<br />

✓ Clint took this picture of me. It’s rare that I ever<br />

have a picture of myself diving, so thank you Clint.<br />

Each dive is different, but one rule rings true - keep<br />

alert and look all around you. This means a full 360°.<br />

You may be looking at a wall and get passed by a<br />

whale shark in the deep. Sharks, rays, whales, and<br />

schools of rays tend to stick to the deep blue when<br />

they are in schools. It happens.<br />

1cm? It’s Called a Pygmy Seahorse<br />

✓ This is what I am talking about when I mention the<br />

dive crew was excellent. They know what to look<br />

for. This little guy was in a Fan Coral with a flat<br />

radius of about 4feet. Imagine finding this little<br />

creature in that size of a coral. I had a hell of a time<br />

getting this photograph with my little Nikon AW130<br />

in one hand and the “torch”/flashlight in the other. I<br />

found that my macro shots are a lot more focused<br />

when I use a torch instead of the useless flash!<br />

PAGE 14


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NUDIBRANCH HEAVEN<br />

The best sightings underwater are not always sharks and the bigger animals. Nudibranchs are basically beautiful slugs,<br />

flatworms, and alien creatures. There are so many forms, I had to consult a book to start classifying them. I haven’t seen<br />

so many since I was in Borneo. This page honors Kris, Steve, and Ed.<br />

PAGE 16


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PAGE 17


Sardine run of Moabaol.<br />

Tropical storm caused us to<br />

dive to the East for our last dives.<br />

Pescador Island was<br />

incredible for sea life<br />

Sumilon Island was good for<br />

3 dives! Awesome.<br />

Apo Island was incredible for<br />

turtles and Marine Life.<br />

PAGE 18

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