INSIGHT Magazine - Issue 1

The Fox & Hounds
Reviewed by Rona Simpson
I am not a fan of bright lighting when
out for an evening. It might be something
to do with the increasing years. Even
in summer it’s quite nice sometimes
to escape the brightness of the day.
Descending stairs to the Stable Bar at the
Fox & Hounds in Houston surrounded by
twinkly lights and dark wood beams I am
instantly relaxed.
Once seated, the waiter immediately
hands us glasses of prosecco. So far, so
good. With this comes warmed miniature
rolls to go with the whipped sea-salted
butter that lies on black slate plates.
These are light and delicious.
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We are here to sample their new Table
d’Hote Menu. To start I choose the
scallops with caramelized cauliflower and
brown butter cappuccino. The scallops
are beautifully seared, there’s nuttiness from
the cauliflower and the butter cappuccino is frothy and
luxurious. It’s stunning. My dining companion’s Marinated
Beetroot and Goat’s Cheese is almost as beautiful to look at
as it is to eat. Earthy beetroot, punchy goat’s cheese, a pep
of horseradish sauce and a crunch of walnuts. Superb.
Main courses arrive promptly. A generous, meaty chunk of
roasted monkfish is swimming in oodles of tomato butter
sauce. The braised fennel is soft with just a little bite, its
mild aniseed notes complimenting the earthy saffron in the
crushed potatoes. I love it! My companion plumps for Fillet
of Beef (no extra charge). It comes with creamed spinach,
caramalized
pearl onions and
new potatoes.
Salty frites are
missing from the
dish, but that’s a
small personal
preference. The
beef is incredibly
tender. There is
not one but two
sauces on show
here. A deep red
wine sauce binds
everything together,
but a splash of green
herb pesto-style
dressing is minty,
fresh and mouthwateringly
yummy.
We wash everything
down with a very
agreeable bottle
(or, ahem.. two) of
Pinot Grigio. When
it came to desserts
my Assiette of Chocolate looked almost too good to eat, but
eat it I certainly did! The toothshakingly sweet mouse offset by
bittersweet candied citrus fruits is a delight for the senses - and
utterly addictive. Rice pudding with Mango and Lime is the
kind of dessert which would have Masterchef’s Greg Wallace
grinning stupidly and trying to hug people. It is very, very good
and despite being incredibly full, I can’t stop dipping in for one
last spoonful. To sum up the experience: it is the best food I
have had in these parts in a long, long time and I can’t wait to
come back!