WebMarApr2019

www.westendermagazine.com | 35
@
Rossini
Reviewed by Amy Glasgow
Is there anything more satisfying than a
hearty Italian? In recent years there has
been somewhat of a revolution when it
comes to Italian dining. In what can only be
a positive move, more and more traditional
eateries are appearing, focusing on seasonal
ingredients and dishes that truly represent
the vast Italian cuisine.
Don’t get me wrong, there is nothing
wrong with a bowl of carbonara or a
magherita pizza, but it’s nice to see
authentic, Italian-run businesses like La
Lanterna, Eusebi Deli and Celino’s sharing
success in the West End.
A relatively new restaurant that fits this
bill is Rossini, owned by Maurizio and Ester
Rossini. Their first venture, the award winning
North Star café, was and is a huge success
but head chef and owner Maurizio opened
Rossini in order to bring the traditional dishes
of his home region, Apulia, to the streets of
Glasgow, along with their knowledgeable and
ever-friendly service.
We started our meal with an appetiser
of arancini, for who can resist the call of
smoked mozzarella and n’duja, which was
the clear standout of the three flavours on
offer. The other two, one filled with meat ragu
and the other with saffron and peas, were
somewhat forgettable, though the exterior
was beautifully crisp and golden brown.
I was similarly intrigued by the Panzerotto,
which translates as ‘the belly of the dough’.
It is, essentially, a calzone. Filled with a
molten tomato sauce and mozzarella and
deep-fried, this Puglian street food is quite
indulgent for antipasti and worth your time,
but in future I would pass on the fried squid
and king prawns, which didn’t have the
freshness I craved.
The selection of pasta dishes on the
menu is representative of Maurizio’s home
of Puglia, with a number of unusual options
never before seen in Glasgow. The menu is
a breath of fresh air, with just two ‘classic’
Italian dishes on the menu, one of which is
lasagne and not to be scoffed at. This is not
the kind of lasagne you make at home with a
jar of Dolmio, but a rich, meaty and authentic
alternative.
Don’t overlook the array of more unique
dishes though, especially when the pasta
is freshly made in-house. I opted for the
paccheri (meaning ‘slaps’); large tubular
pasta served with smoked mozzarella, cherry
tomatoes and crispy pigs cheek. The pasta
was perfectly al dente and sat in a delicious,
warming sauce, but the pigs cheek was not
‘crispy’ by any stretch of imagination, though
it was soft, it was not distinguishable from
pancetta.
Despite having quite a sweet tooth,
I would unfortunately have to suggest giving
desserts a miss at Rossini’s, whose specialty
is very much savoury. The ones we had
(pistachio and saffron panna cotta and a dark
chocolate and almond cake) were both fairly
unremarkable, although given the generous
portion sizes and reasonable price tag,
you may be too full to order one!
Rossini
39-41 Hyndland Street G11 5QF
0141 337 3135
rossiniwestend.com
Image I Brodie Reid