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THE MONTECRISTO TREASURE<br />

Tenente Colonnello Giovanni Quilghini<br />

Comandante del Reparto Carabinieri per la Biodiversità di Follonica<br />

Without displeasing the loyal readers of Alexandre Dumas,<br />

I know that the true treasure of Montecristo consists<br />

in the balance - unique in its kind - of a harsh and wild<br />

territory. This is why the D.M. of March 4 th , 1971, had<br />

foresight to establish the island as a Nature Reserve, which<br />

was then recharacterised as a Biogenetic Reserve (D.M.,<br />

December 12 th , 1977). Montecristo is a magmatic mass<br />

that consolidated between 7.3 and 5.1 million years ago,<br />

located halfway between the peninsula of Monte Argentario<br />

and Corsica. In 1988 the island was awarded the Diplome<br />

Européen del Consiglio d’Europa for Protected Areas due<br />

to its ecological and morphological characteristics. In<br />

recent years, noteworthy studies have been carried out on<br />

this pearl within the marvelous territory of the Arcipelago<br />

Toscano National Park (DPR, July 22 nd , 1996).<br />

For those who, like myself, have had the honour and the<br />

duty of commanding the Raggruppamento Carabinieri<br />

Biodiversità, Follonica Department, Montecristo is always<br />

one of the most delicate missions in the territory. It is the<br />

successor of the extraordinary effort made over the years<br />

by the State Forestry Corp, which then merged into the<br />

Carabinieri. A specific task has been handed down to<br />

us: to defend an area of 10.4 square kilometres, and a<br />

coastal development comprising of 16 kilometres. Indeed,<br />

a proper presence intends a profound intervention in the<br />

preservation of the island’s natural heritage and in the<br />

eradication of any foreign elements that may threaten<br />

it today, all exercised under strict control. I refer here to<br />

Ailanthus, a deciduous tree in the Simaroubaceae family<br />

which is thought to have origins in China, in the Maluku<br />

Islands and in North Vietnam. It is, therefore, not a native<br />

species. It was introduced to Europe in the first half of the<br />

eighteenth century and has since then begun an incessant<br />

process of colonisation of bare, over-populated and<br />

consumed areas, proving to be lethal for natural habitats.<br />

It is a tree that produces substances that are toxic to plants<br />

of different species. It was reported on the island for the<br />

first time by Stefano Sommier in 1898. One of our firsts<br />

tasks has therefore been to monitor its diffusion (equal to<br />

over 180 hectares), carry out preliminary tests and proceed<br />

with eradication through four methodologies linked to the<br />

characteristics of the plant.<br />

We have also done something else to make this island, with<br />

its almost elliptical shape, an authentic nature sanctuary.<br />

We have identified and studied 73 different species of<br />

epigeal macromycetes. We have mapped the asperity of the<br />

porphyroid granite spurs that enhance the natural beauty<br />

of peaks such as the Monte della Fortezza (645 metres<br />

above sea level), the Cima di Collo dei Lecci (563 msl),<br />

and including such evocative names as the impenetrable<br />

Punta del Diavolo. We have reinforced paths around these<br />

reference points, reserved for those who want to face<br />

the perilous walkways with their unfathomable beauty<br />

(always accompanied by our specialised personnel): from<br />

a comfortable visit at the Villa del Re to the ruins of the<br />

Monastery. We attempt to maintain the charm of the land<br />

that was so loved by Watson Taylor (owner of the island in<br />

the 1800s), the Marquis Ginori and the royal family who<br />

desired to create a hunting reserve on the island.<br />

At the dawn of the 1970s, Montecristo was known as<br />

the island of rats because of the proliferation of black rat<br />

that threatened the ecosystem as well as the lives in the<br />

nests of the Manx shearwater birds. It took us two years<br />

to eradicate, and to restore a more natural balance for the<br />

birds on the island.<br />

We did not do this for approval, but for the duty that we<br />

cultivate towards the creation that is also a marine reserve.<br />

Among our tasks is also that of standardising access to<br />

visitors on the island of Montecristo, which was included<br />

in zone 1 in 1996, with a limit of 1,000 annual visits using<br />

boats that respect access to the protected range which<br />

reaches the small port in Cala Maestra where two of our<br />

agents may verify the regular conduct of permitted activities<br />

and deal with the popularisation of the natural settings.<br />

Every fifteen days, we alternate between two soldiers who<br />

are stationed to protect this unique place who, through<br />

dedication and passion, allow the island of Montecristo to<br />

reveal itself in its irrepressible beauty.

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