Globerovers Magazine, July 2019

Myanmar
THE RETURN JOURNEY
After spending three days with the
Naga people, it was time to return to Hkamti
for our flight back to Mandalay. The
drive back was uneventful and we made
sure to cross the river during the daytime.
Back in Hkamti we had time to quickly
explore the town before flying back to
Mandalay the next morning.
Hkamti is a rugged town and somehow
made me think of a typical lone-star
American midwest town of the 1960s.
As we walked through the dusty streets
filled with Kodak-moments around every
corner, we were looking for something
that we all expect in a lone-star town. Just
as we turned northwards along the muddy
shores of the Chindwin River, we saw it.
Large green, red and white signboards
announced our arrival at the “Beer Boy”
bar and restaurant. This dimly-lit social
hangout with metal tables and chairs is
known for its cold “Myanmar Beer”, the
best selling brand of beer in a country
where choices are limited. As we sat down,
we received a plate of peanuts and a small
serving of the famous Burmese tea-leaf
salad. On the house and repeatedly refilled,
this was just the place to be.
Hkamti treated us well with many
photos, friendly people, interesting food,
and of course the cold beer. The hotel
stay was uneventful but we all had a
well-deserved rest. After breakfast the
next morning it was time to head for the
nearby airport and fly back to Mandalay,
from where we all went home into different
directions.
I was glad that at last I had visited
Nagaland, in particular, to join in with the
New Years festival. It sure was an interesting
way to celebrate New Year and a trip
that I won’t easily forget. I hope you make
it to Nagaland one day and get to take part
in their festivals. GR
This tour was partially
sponsored by
ProNiti Travel in Yangon.
Contact them at
sales@pronititravel.com
to book your tour to Nagaland.
ESSENTIAL INFORMATION
Getting There
Foreigners are currently allowed to travel
independently to Nagaland, however,
what is allowed today may not be allowed
tomorrow. This is Myanmar where rules
and regulations come and go without
much notice. Check with the Ministry of
Hotels and Tourism in Nay Pyi Taw at
info@tourism.gov.mm. Rent a 4X4 vehicle
with driver, or go with a local travel agency.
When to Go
The Nagaland New Year is held in mid-
January, the coldest time of the year.
Days are cool to warm and nights can get
quite cold. Best time to visit Nagaland is
November to April when it is dry and not
too hot. Summers are hot. Between June
to October, it will be rainy and muddy.
Dining Out
All-inclusive tours to the festival generally
include three meals, most of which
are served at your accommodation. Food
is generally good and you will likely find
many dishes you have never tried before.
Be open-minded and enjoy the local food.
The festival has many food & drink stands.
Getting Around
Whether you have your own vehicle or
you go with a travel agency, you need
wheels to get around. It is also possible
to get around on a motorbike. Roads are
mostly not paved so they can get very
dusty in the dry season, and extremely
muddy and may even be inaccessible in
the rainy season. In the festival grounds
and around town, get around on foot.
Where to Stay
If you plan your trip through a travel agency,
they will arrange everything, including
meals and accommodation. Depending
on which one of the three rotating towns
where the festival is held, accommodation
vary from fairly basic hotels to home
stays. Book in advance for the festival.
Packing
As most people will come here during the
winter’s New Year Festival, bring layered
clothing as the nights and mornings can
get cold, while days get warm. Accommodation
should have enough blankets
but may not provide a cover sheet so bring
along a travel sleep sheet or sleeping bag.
Photography
Nagaland is a remote part of the world
and many of the Naga people may never
have seen a camera. Mobile phones
with cameras are becoming common so
the concept of photography is becoming
less novel. Most people are not camera
shy and many participants at the festival
are happy to pose. As usual, for closeup
posed portraits, ask permission.
Safety
Nagaland is generally a safe destination
although there has been confl ict between
the Nagas and the Myanmar army and
police. Follow the advice of the tour guides
and locals and make sure to respect the
people, their culture, and the remoteness of
this mountainous region.
Cost of Travel
All-inclusive tours with travel agencies are
very pricey but as competition increases,
the fees are likely to decline. Several
agencies offer tours to the festival so
shop around. A small group of travellers
may fi nd it more affordable to rent a 4x4
with driver and arrange meals on arrival.
Article • Myanmar | 115