Globerovers Magazine, July 2019

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ARGENTINA FAR SOUTH Ushuaia viewed from the harbour. Streets of Ushuaia. Beagle Channel. Sea lions on La Isla de Los Lobos, Beagle Channel. Hiking over Martial Glacier. 30 Globerovers · July 2019
Argentina: The South USHUAIA The world’s southernmost town is also the gateway to a lot of adventure. Ushuaia, pronounced [u’swaia], is the capital of the province of Tierra del Fuego in southern Argentina. Lonely Planet Travel guides describes the town as “A sliver of steep streets and jumbled buildings below the snowcapped Martial Range. Here the Andes meets the southern ocean in a sharp skid, making way for the city before reaching a sea of lapping currents”. How idyllic! While this is not the most southern settlement, it is generally labelled as the “southernmost town” in the world, a title long disputed by the much smaller Puerto Williams. Although Puerto Williams, southeast of Ushuaia on the Chilean island of Navarino, is farther south, it has only 2,900 inhabitants compared with Ushuaia’s population of more than 60,000. As Ushuaia is commonly regarded as the “southernmost town,” it leaves Puerto Williams with the title of “southernmost village.” Ushuaia is located in a wide bay on the southern coast of the island known as “Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego.” Guarded on the north by the Martial Mountain Range and on the south by the Beagle Channel, the first humans to settle in the Tierra del Fuego date back about 10,000 years when the Selk’nam Indians, also called the Ona, arrived. Their southern splinter group, referred to as the Yaghan or Yámana, occupied the area which now is known as Ushuaia. British missionaries founded the town of Ushuaia in 1884, and the town’s population slowly grew. However, epidemics including typhus, pertussis, and measles decimated the native population and by 1911 the Yámana had all practically vanished. The original train line was constructed in 1902 and shuffled around on wooden rails with flatbed wagons pulled by oxen. In 1910 a steam engine was brought in and the gauge was widened, presumably with steel tracks. The 1949 Tierra del Fuego earthquake caused a landslide which blocked much of the line just two years after the prison was closed, so gone were the labourers to remove the blockage. The blockage was cleared by non-prisoners but again closed in 1952 due to a lack of money. Being so close to the bottom of the world is a special feeling, in particular when you are surrounded by beautiful scenery and wildlife. To boost the small population, the Argentine government started sending reoffenders and dangerous prisoners, as well as political prisoners from Buenos Aires to the new jail in Ushuaia which at this time was known as Presidio, meaning “the jail at the end of the world. The prisoners were subjected to hard labour both inside the prison grounds and outside. As forced colonists, they spent much of their time building the new town of Ushuaia with timber collected from the lush forest around the town. They also constructed a short railway to transport rock, sand and timber to expand the prison and the town. Fast forward to 1994 when the line was reopened and upgraded, with the addition of a new steam engine from England. Now known as the “Southern Fuegian Railway” or “End of the World Train,” it serves champagne and dinner to tourists on a short ride along Pico Valley in the Toro Gorge. At the Macarena Station passengers learn about the Yámana indigenous people and then continue on through the scenic Tierra del Fuego National Park. Guess what? It is indisputably labelled as the “southernmost railway in the world.” The original jail, closed in 1947 by President Juan Perón, today serves as a museum known as the Museo Marítimo de Ushuaia, which is the southernmost museum in the world, we assume! One of the cells known as the Ala Histórica remains almost intact to demonstrate the mysterious and dark atmosphere inside the cells, complete with memorabilia from the last prisoners who lived here. Another pleasant day trip is to explore the Beagle Channel and Lapataia Bay by boat. The channel, named after the explorer Charles Darwin’s ship which sailed here in 1833-34, separates Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego from the southern islands of Navarino, Nueva, Lennox, Picton, and many other smaller islands. Lighthouse, Beagle Channel. As your boat sails past the Les Eclaireurs Lighthouse and many islands, look out for breeding colonies of sea lions, imperial cormorants, dolphin gulls, and steamer ducks. Feature • Argentina | 31
Page 3 and 4: VOL. 7 · NO. 1, July 2019 Journal
Page 5 and 6: Editor‛s Message “Not all those
Page 7 and 8: Thanks to our Contributors In this
Page 9 and 10: Follow us.... Don’t hesitate to f
Page 11 and 12: DESTINATIONS IN THIS ISSUE NAGALAND
Page 13 and 14: Argentina The Long Way Down From no
Page 15 and 16: the Monumento a los Héroes de la I
Page 17 and 18: Argentina: The North Colonial El Ca
Page 19 and 20: Argentina: The North get thoroughly
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Page 23 and 24: • Belgrano is one of the largest
Page 25 and 26: Argentina: Patagonia Guanacos, Peni
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Globerovers Magazine, July 2019

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