V221
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Special Maldives<br />
Aug 3-13 Issue<br />
MV Carpe Novo<br />
43 Meter Liveaboard<br />
S t .<br />
SomeTimes<br />
The life and times of Greg Lemoine, International Educator since 2001.<br />
<strong>V221</strong><br />
MALDIVES #4<br />
11 DAYS ABOARD THE CARPE NOVO<br />
A DIVING DREAM<br />
9 full days of diving at 3 dives a day<br />
average. Two Night dives. Spacious<br />
Liveaboard conditions for only 13<br />
Divers. Excellence!<br />
See more newsletters, pictures, Issue and 16 videos - September at www.itre.us / 2020
page 2<br />
Thank You to the Entire Crew<br />
It was a pleasure to be on the Carpe Novo<br />
for an 11 day cruise. Not only is this ship a<br />
dive Liveaboard, the crew makes it a Five<br />
Star Cruise around the Maldives. So<br />
thank you to the following:<br />
Captain: Shareef<br />
Chef: Kelum<br />
Chef: Mulla Baaii<br />
Rofiq: Room Boy<br />
Faarooqu: Engineer<br />
Paayaal: Emgineer<br />
Ajith: Bartender<br />
We spent a lot of time diving,<br />
but we spent even more time<br />
onboard the Novo. Our trip took<br />
us from the capital Malé , south to<br />
Vaavuu and South Ari atolls and<br />
then far to the North to dive in<br />
Shaviyani Atoll. You can check out the maps<br />
on the next few pages. The whole map takes<br />
four pages from North to South.<br />
Back to the crew, they really make guests<br />
feel like they are on a cruise. If you need<br />
anything, they make it happen. Your bed is<br />
often made fresh before you return from the<br />
first dive or finish breakfast. Then you go on<br />
the next dive. The cruise really is Dive, Eat,<br />
Sleep, Repeat.<br />
This is my second Carpe trip in two years.<br />
Both the Carpe Diem and the Carpe Novo<br />
are very special experiences because of the<br />
crews on board. Without the crews, they<br />
would simply be great ships with a lot of<br />
room. The crew makes it both a Diving<br />
Experience and a 5 Star Cruise. It is all in the<br />
details.<br />
Dive, Eat,<br />
Sleep,<br />
Repeat<br />
Watch how easily Doc parks the<br />
dohni right next to the Novo<br />
in gusting winds. Rofiq<br />
leaves a fresh towel in<br />
a new creative shape<br />
on a freshly made<br />
bed every morning.<br />
Chef Kelum works<br />
all hours of the day<br />
to provide your<br />
m e a l s a n d<br />
remember specific<br />
food needs.<br />
Farooqu and Payaal<br />
k e e p t h e m o t o r s<br />
purring. Shareef keeps<br />
the ship moving to each<br />
atoll. If we aren’t moving, he<br />
may be teaching a few novices how<br />
to catch our next breakfast off the stern. No<br />
matter what, Ajith is ready with a beer, glass<br />
of wine, or a fancy umbrella drink to<br />
celebrate the day’s dives.<br />
The Carpe Novo Dhoni crew thinks always of<br />
safety. No one jumps in until there is a clear<br />
signal from Doc and the dive guides. Dive<br />
briefings are clear and drawn out. The guides<br />
really know the fish behaviors and where to<br />
find the pelagics. Most of all, the dive team<br />
pays attention to their divers and meet their<br />
needs.<br />
Thank You to the entire crew!<br />
See more newsletters, pictures, and videos at www.itre.us Carpe Novo
Maldives<br />
Trip #4<br />
page 3
page 4<br />
A<br />
KIKO AND FRANCESCO?<br />
WHAT A COINCIDENCE!<br />
It All Started in the Philippines<br />
Francesco and Akiko are a wonderful couple that<br />
I dove with on the Infinity Liveaboard in the<br />
Philippines. Take a look back to V211, December<br />
2018. What a surprise when Francesco comes<br />
up and gives me a hug in the Malé airport. I had<br />
no idea they were signed up for the same<br />
Maldives trip I was signed up for. As I often say…<br />
What a Small World!<br />
Where to Next?<br />
I had no success trying to talk Francesco and<br />
Akiko into another trip. Like me, they would like to<br />
leave it up to fate and another surprise in the<br />
future. Who knows where it will be next? There is<br />
a list of places I have not been to dive. See you<br />
another time F & A!<br />
See more newsletters, pictures, and videos at www.itre.us
Captain<br />
“Doc”<br />
Dive Service<br />
Expert<br />
Maahil<br />
Dive Service<br />
Expert<br />
Ivan<br />
page 5<br />
The Dhoni Crew<br />
Dive<br />
Instructor<br />
Kooky<br />
Super DM<br />
Iyaan<br />
Dive<br />
Instructor<br />
Hussain<br />
See more newsletters, pictures, and videos at www.itre.us
page 6<br />
Manta<br />
Rays<br />
At Cleaning Stations<br />
Where are they?<br />
The Maldives are known for Mantas and Whale<br />
shark sightings. There are numerous “cleaning<br />
stations” where mantas go to get cleaned by<br />
wrasse. Usually, such sights are shallow (15m/<br />
45ft or less) coral mounds. The mantas get their<br />
bodies cleared of parasites by the little wrasse<br />
multitudes. Such a relationship between life<br />
forms is called symbiosis.<br />
You don’t always see mantas at the cleaning<br />
stations. It’s wild ocean, not a zoo. But your<br />
chances are very high. We hit pay dirt at our first<br />
manta station. At least six or seven huge mantas<br />
were coming and going. It’s hard to know how<br />
many because no more than four were on the<br />
mound at any one time. The Mantas are just too<br />
big. It’s like a car wash that can only service a<br />
specific amount of cars at a time.<br />
What is the dive like?<br />
Basically, when you are taken by a dive boat to a<br />
cleaning station, the focus is just on the Mantas.<br />
A lot of times, the coral mound is set off from the<br />
reef in a sandy area so divers just surround the<br />
mound to get a view of the mantas passing over<br />
the mound to get cleaned. The main rule in the<br />
Maldives is to keep a good five meters between you<br />
and the station and NEVER float OVER the station<br />
itself. Otherwise the mantas get scared off.<br />
60 Minutes of Awesome!<br />
A usual dive is 55 minutes and and 5 minutes for<br />
ascent, including the 3 minute safety stop at 5m/15ft.<br />
Cleaning stations are a different dive plan. We<br />
descended well away from the mound and formed a<br />
small group down current from the mound. I was<br />
overweighted so I didn’t need to “hook” into a rock.<br />
Others used their hooks so they didn’t have to fin in<br />
the current or use their fingers to hang onto rocks.<br />
(Hanging onto a rock for 55 minutes is very tiring.)<br />
Anyway, we were the first divers to the station that<br />
morning. One absolutely huge manta and two large<br />
mantas were trading off time getting cleaned. They<br />
would swoop in and hover so the wrasse could get<br />
to work on eating parasites.<br />
Surface Jumping?<br />
Before any other boats showed up, we were treated<br />
to a surface jump. The huge manta finished his<br />
cleaning shot up vertically to the surface. He didn’t
page 7<br />
just swim away. He breached<br />
completely and crashed down<br />
o n i t s b a c k ! T o t a l l y<br />
unexpected. Totally awesome<br />
to behold. According to the<br />
DMs, they do this to show off<br />
for the females.<br />
Going to the Dentist and a<br />
Flyby?<br />
Mantas don’t have teeth. They<br />
feed mainly on plankton and<br />
small crustaceans and use a<br />
filtering system like whale<br />
sharks do. But they still have to<br />
get the dead tissues and<br />
parasites out of their mouths. I<br />
was treated to the next page<br />
photo op which I had never<br />
seen before. It doesn’t get<br />
He breached<br />
completely and<br />
crashed down on<br />
its back!<br />
Totally Awesome<br />
to behold.
page 8<br />
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page 9<br />
m u c h b e t t e r t h a n o u r<br />
experience. Wait…it got<br />
better. One of the larger<br />
mantas passed a few<br />
inches over my head as it<br />
left the cleaning station.<br />
There were no less than 40<br />
divers circled around the<br />
cleaning station by the time we<br />
had used up our 55 minute dive<br />
time. Of all those 40 divers, one<br />
manta chose me to swim right over.<br />
Fadiculous! That’s how I managed to get the<br />
main photo above. Those are my bubbles!<br />
Inches away man! Inches!<br />
bay. The rangers blamed<br />
it on the rainy weather<br />
coming and informed<br />
o u r d i v e t e a m n o<br />
m a n t a s h a d b e e n<br />
spotted in the past six<br />
days. Our empty day<br />
made it seven straight<br />
days of no mantas.<br />
I will just have to go back<br />
again to see the manta schools!<br />
Our trip also took us to an internationally<br />
protected manta bay where schools of up to<br />
50 mantas are usually seen. The local<br />
rangers report sightings to the resorts and<br />
liveaboards. Unfortunately, we didn’t get to<br />
see such massive numbers on our dive in the<br />
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page 10<br />
See more newsletters, pictures,<br />
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of Divers<br />
page 11<br />
One of the most exciting aspects of my Liveaboard experiences is the international flavor of the<br />
divers and the crews. This trip offered a variety of nationalities and the following spoken<br />
languages: English, Malidivan, German, French, Italian, Japanese, Russian, American,<br />
Chinese, and Arabic. Of course, English was the language most shared between all of us.<br />
Francesco Foghetti<br />
Artyom Anikeyev<br />
Akiko Shinko<br />
Ming Li<br />
Alain Vandersmissen<br />
Xueqin Yang<br />
Susan Welburn<br />
Greg Lemoine<br />
Tang Yan<br />
Julian Manuel<br />
Karolien Derwael<br />
Zhang Tian<br />
Gleb Anikyev<br />
The crew came from Maldives, Sri<br />
Lanka, India, Bangladesh, and<br />
perhaps a few I did not find out. I<br />
apologize if I didn’t represent any<br />
countries or languages.
page 12<br />
Calling All Nurses !!<br />
Diving with hundreds of<br />
nurse sharks at night is<br />
like…<br />
Night Dive. My favorite kind of diving. It doesn’t get much better than<br />
this. The dive briefing is quick with very little information. The idea is<br />
for most of it to be a surprise. I was not surprised because I had done<br />
this same dive last year. It was even better this year.<br />
We dove down to about 8 meters just after the sun set. The dive team<br />
wanted to get us in place before all the other dive groups descended<br />
and crowded us out. Spectacular. There were a lot more sharks this<br />
year. Seeing them in the dusk allowed me to see just how many are<br />
actually swimming around us. I would say, at least a hundred or more.<br />
Every direction you look. Shark. Shark. Shark. Ray. Shark. They love<br />
laying down in the sandy channels, sometimes right on top of each
page 13<br />
Have you ever lain<br />
down next tp several<br />
sharks at night? I<br />
have. Tian shot the<br />
evidence.<br />
other in piles. Once in a while, a<br />
ray with come flying close to the<br />
sand.<br />
Every once in a while, if you are<br />
kneeling on the sand, a nurse<br />
will sidle up next to you and give<br />
you a nudge - like it’s saying<br />
“move over, this is my spot”.<br />
That is a crazy feeling. It gets a<br />
bit more enervating as the water<br />
gets darker and darker. It seems<br />
like more and more sharks<br />
arrived as the water darkened<br />
and all you could see was in<br />
your torch beam or someone<br />
else’s beam. Totally amazing.<br />
According to local lore, the<br />
reason Alimathaa in VaaVu Atoll<br />
is so popular for nurse sharks<br />
and rays, is due to local<br />
fishermen cleaning their catch<br />
along the shores of Alimathaa.<br />
Now there is a resort and a long<br />
jetty. Boats of snorkelers and<br />
divers are perpetually visiting<br />
and the resort (most likely) is still<br />
feeding the sharks even though<br />
it is now against the law.<br />
This was my second time to<br />
night dive in Alimathaa. The first<br />
time was exciting to see the<br />
ballet dancing of the nurses as<br />
they attempted to eat or escape<br />
from the small yellow fish. This<br />
trip, for me, was enhanced by<br />
the sheer numbers of creatures<br />
below.<br />
Iyaan took us down to depth and<br />
let us take a lot of pictures in<br />
one little area. As the darkness<br />
closed around us, he led our<br />
small group into other areas<br />
nearer the jetty and farther out<br />
into the sandy pathways.<br />
Everywhere we looked, there<br />
were even more sharks. Each<br />
and every sandy area had<br />
sharks. Unbelievable.<br />
I got some excellent close up<br />
photos and even tried a selfie<br />
with a few sharks. Luckly, Tian<br />
took the group photo you see<br />
above. I just couldn’t fit all of us<br />
into a selfie.
page 14<br />
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page 15<br />
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page 21<br />
S<br />
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page 22<br />
2015-2019<br />
Nikon AW130<br />
4,000 Images<br />
and Videos<br />
PRO MALIS DETRACTO <br />
AN MAGNA AUGUE<br />
All of the photos and videos (well almost every one) featured in my newsletters, from<br />
underwater in the past four years , have been taken with my Nikon AW130. After<br />
almost 4,000 underwater images and videos, it is time to say “ma-asalama” to the<br />
AW130.<br />
PROS AND CONS<br />
This light weight camera sells for about $350 without a case. Without<br />
an underwater case, it can withstand 4 atmospheres of pressure.<br />
That’s 30m/99ft underwater. The one and only CON is<br />
if the door is not securely closed…<br />
GAME OVER.<br />
It happened on my second dive of the eighth day onboard the<br />
Carpe Novo. I didn’t dive in with it. I didn’t put it in the<br />
freshwater bath. I simply had it around my neck while I rinsed<br />
off my hair to get it out of my eyes. Damn! After my shower, I<br />
set up my gear and checked the camera door before I placed it<br />
in the freshwater camera bin. Damnit. That was the first time I<br />
had worn it around my neck before placing it in the bin.<br />
Water got into the camera case. Game over. Of course, a bag<br />
of rice didn’t work. Sun drying didn’t work. Packets from new<br />
electronics (that absorb) didn’t work. Game over.<br />
It’s a fantastic camera. The only way to water damage<br />
the camera is human error, specifically not closing the<br />
door properly. Even a grain of sand will do it.<br />
I love this camera. It’s been a real workhorse. Amazon<br />
still has them listed. Time to order a new one. Maybe I’ll<br />
get the yellow one this time. Better yet, I’ll try the W300<br />
that Nikon came out with.<br />
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