Sundowner: Autumn/Winter 2019

INDIA
What better way to start your day than with a spot of yoga
watching the sun rise over this enchanted palace? Over the next
48 hours our group explores the city’s historic sights, beginning
with the famous City Palace, renowned for the breath-taking
architecture of its façade. I found its scale incredible, hundreds of
rooms, each intricately designed, and each with a story to tell. It
was then time to view the city from the lake with a magical cruise
taking us past the marble palace of Jag Mandir, whose jetty is
guarded by charming stone elephants.
I am delighted to find how flexible an escorted tour is for the
individual traveller. Today, I can choose one of the unique Design
your Day® options, which include a scenic cycle ride or a cooking
class to learn more about the local Rajasthani cuisine. I opt for
the active excursion and find myself pedalling up the Aravalli
mountains, passing by the Monsoon Palace and Badi Lake. On my
return I sample some of the dishes created by my fellow travellers
as we compare notes about our bespoke day.
Feeling energised, the next stop on our tour is Jaipur, ‘The Pink
City’ – so called because of its distinctive rose-hued palaces and
temples. We are lucky enough to visit during Diwali, when the
whole of India is illuminated as Hindus unite in celebration of this
holy time. Seemingly every street in Jaipur is adorned with pretty
lights and decorations. Stalls brim with fresh flowers, festive
cakes, and diyas (oil lamps) – an immersive experience for all of
us. We are intrigued by this bustling city of rickshaws and camels
which bear you to a treasure-trove of wonders, including the City
Palace and Amber Fort.
A four-poster bed awaits in Rambagh Palace, a former royal
hunting lodge built for the Maharajah of Jaipur, and now one
of the most luxurious hotels in India, with striking views of the
Aravalli mountains. A royal welcome like no other awaits as we
arrive. As we enter through the gates, the trumpeting of elephants
marks the beginning of our stay. It’s a special moment that
becomes a talking point over dinner that night. Rail enthusiasts
will love eating at restaurant Steam, which is a restored heritage
train carriage. Some of us choose to relax with a swim before
enjoying a treatment at the Jiva Spa. There’s also a yoga pavilion
and the perfect place for a sundowner – the Polo Bar.
The next day, it’s time to choose my preferred activity again.
While others in my group opt for a water walk at Nahargarh and
hike in the foothills of the Amer, I can’t resist the sound of a
safari in Jhalana Reserve, home to the elusive leopard. Later we
share our stories and photographs over dinner, and prepare for
tomorrow’s move north.
Who hasn’t seen the Taj Mahal countless times in pictures?
But it’s true what they say – there’s nothing quite like viewing this
iconic monument to love up close. We spend two days in Agra,
visiting at sunset and sunrise. Watching the sky’s pink and orange
hues reflect off the white marble of this majestic mausoleum is
astonishing. Being in a group of travellers each just as awe-struck
as me makes it that much more inspiring.
We have enough time for a guided tour of another impressive
building from the Mughal era – the Agra Fort – before it’s back
to our accommodation for the night. The Oberoi Amarvilas Agra
was built to evoke the grandeur of the city’s Mughal and Moorish
buildings and gives us one last opportunity to admire the Taj
Mahal from afar.
Next up it’s historic Varanasi, which isn’t just my favourite
place on the tour – it’s one of the most wonderful places I’ve ever
visited. Built on the banks of the Ganges, this city has a lot of
spiritual significance to the Hindus of India. It feels so raw and
chaotic, with the contrasts of life and death unhidden, and it’s easy
to get swept up in the atmosphere.
Each evening, passionate locals and pilgrims perform the ritual
of aarti down on Varanasi’s famous ghats (stepped embankments).
But it’s the simplicity of the morning rituals that really strikes
me. We get up at sunrise for a cruise along the river, and the walk
down the ghats is the perfect people-watching opportunity. The
steps are lined with those carrying out their personal religious
observances. I notice one woman, in her own world and totally
at peace, spiritually cleansing herself with the holy water of the
Ganges. It’s a place to lose yourself in.
Our escorted tour ends how it began, in the hustle and bustle of
one of India’s largest cities. This time it is Delhi, a mass of stimuli,
with weaving rickshaws, dangling power cables, and narrow
streets filled with noise and people. We spend our last day visiting
the best of Old and New Delhi, from the vast mosque of Jama
Masjid to the sensory overload of Chandi Chowk bazaar.
Then it’s time to say goodbye. During our farewell dinner,
photographs and anecdotes are shared among a group of friends
who were strangers only 10 days ago. This independent traveller
has found the best of both worlds – travelling solo, together.
previous page: View across Lake Pichola
opposite page, clockwise from top left: An Indian mystic; a typical Indian
street scene; the Taj Mahal, monument to love; the Varanasi ghats on the
banks of the Ganges
this page: Bethan enjoying her tour
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT
A&K’s Splendours of the Golden Triangle escorted tour starts
at £2,495 per person (excludes flights). The first four solo places
booked won’t pay a single supplement. For more information,
call our escorted tours specialists on 01242 547 892.
abercrombiekent.co.uk | 75