Smorgasboarder Edition 47

mental health, inner strength, positivity and the importance of eating well

mental health, inner strength, positivity and the importance of eating well


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mental health, inner strength, positivity and the importance of eating well<br />

issue<br />

<strong>47</strong><br />

SPRING 19<br />

f r e e<br />

SURF MAG<br />

simple<br />

pleasures<br />

how the beginning of something uncertain<br />

lead to a surf trip covering the globe

Tree to Sea Australia Eco Board workshops are held over 2 days,<br />

we have 14 or so models to choose from ranging from performance<br />

shortboards, fishes, guns, longboards and our popular custom service.<br />

If you prefer Tree to Sea Australia can build an Eco Board for you.<br />

Further info, workshop dates, to view boards for sale go to<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

photo supplied courtesy of Filipe Alvarez<br />

mental minimalism<br />

So much clutter. So much waste! In the<br />

environment it means litter, over-stressed resources<br />

and pollution, largely thanks to our consumptioncrazed<br />

culture. But these next few words aren’t<br />

going to be about the environment.<br />

Instead, when you step back and consider<br />

litter and pollution, let’s think of it as a physical<br />

representation of what most of us tend to put<br />

into our bodies and brains through our day-today<br />

activities. Clutter and waste… Screen-time,<br />

(anti)social media, ruminating about last week’s<br />

arguments and fearing the future, eating crap food,<br />

worrying, stressing… It’s a steady diet of waste and<br />

clutter.<br />

The World Happiness Report 2019 shows that<br />

over the past few years, we’re spending more time<br />

online, and less time on the simple things in life like<br />

talking to friends in person, or even sleep. It seems<br />

the more time we waste on the internet, playing<br />

video games, texting and watching TV, the more<br />

happiness goes down.<br />

And it’s nothing new. We’re not unique, and it turns<br />

out, neither is the challenge of wasting our precious<br />

time here on crap. For example, 2,000 years a<br />

Roman Emperor called Marcus Aurelius – top dog<br />

in the world at the time – didn’t have Facebook or<br />

Insta to monopolise his brainpower and waking<br />

time, yet was similarly struggling with how to strip<br />

back the clutter and live his life more simply.<br />

“Would we cut off the most part of what we say and<br />

do as unnecessary, we should have much leisure<br />

and freedom from trouble. We should suggest to<br />

ourselves on every occasion this question; is this<br />

necessary?”<br />

Meditations, Book IV:24<br />

Basically, what he’s saying is: take time to ask<br />

whether what you’re doing, thinking or planning<br />

actually matters. Then, be brave and simply cut the<br />

crap out of your life, so you can make space for<br />

the good things. 2,000 years later, this advice is as<br />

simple and relevant as ever, if not more so.<br />

So, is it easy to do? Maybe, maybe not… But,<br />

this edition is chock-full of inspirational stories of<br />

people who have bitten that big, bitter bullet and<br />

come out the other side happier, calmer, more<br />

content and living a fulfilled and self-directed<br />

life. And funny enough, these positive people are<br />

channelling their time and energy into people,<br />

physical activity and doing good for others – all<br />

major points that the World Happiness Report<br />

shows pump up the happiness score.<br />

Why are the big lessons always simple ones?<br />

Maybe it’s because life is only complicated because<br />

we construct it to be.<br />

Like Marky Marcus says: “we should have much<br />

leisure and freedom from trouble.”<br />

So let’s go get some of that and start asking, “Is<br />

this necessary?”<br />


BRUSH<br />

ON<br />

CLEAR<br />

GRIP<br />

• Easy, DIY clear and clean<br />

paint-on grip<br />

• Gearbox fin boxes with all wood covers<br />

• Wood coloured fin boxes<br />

• Fin box install kits<br />

• Timber fins<br />

• Surfboards<br />

• Blanks<br />

• Cork tail pads & SUP deck grip<br />

• Aussie-made leashes<br />

• Raw balsa / cedar DIY board kits<br />

• Instructional DVDs<br />

• Timber Board racks<br />

• Pinch and Roll storage<br />

• Tide clocks<br />

• Sharkbanz shark deterrent<br />

wearable devices<br />


Clear board grip tape - Let the beauty of<br />

the balsa show through with clear Versa<br />

Traction Grip Tape. Environmentally<br />

friendly and suits all size boards.<br />

Wholesale enquires welcome<br />

Australian Environmentally-friendly handcrafted<br />

surfboards for the individual in all of us, with a<br />

guarantee. Enjoy Responsibly

The<br />

Diamond<br />

Series<br />

Last month we released The Diamond Series<br />

range of performance surfboards. Featuring<br />

a diamond shaped tail with a paulownia/<br />

cedar tail block, the design provides added<br />

strength and weight for hard back foot<br />

driving (paulownia twice the weight of<br />

balsa).<br />

We have already crafted a number of fun<br />

boards we have called the Diamond Python<br />

along with several performance shortboards<br />

called the Diamond Ring. With a recycled<br />

EPS foam core, balsa skin and double layer<br />

of glass on the deck, finish coated and<br />

polished to perfection, the Diamond Series<br />

looks incredible and performs the same. The<br />

Diamond Ring in particular is amazingly<br />

light at only 2.6kg and not only flies but can<br />

turn on a 20c piece. As always, all of our<br />

boards come with a one-year snap guarantee<br />

and can be customised to suit your needs.<br />

Call 0412 376 464 or<br />

Email mark@riley.com.au<br />

www.balsasurfboardsriley.com.au<br />


Riley Balsawood Surfboards are made using renewable resource balsa and recycled<br />

polystyrene for performance, durability, beauty and lower environmental impact<br />


Photo: Lime Light Creative Studios

smorgasboarder<br />

scan this!<br />

to get into listening at smorgasboarder.com.au/podcast/<br />

issue<br />

spring 2 0 1 9<br />

forty-seven<br />

03 foreword<br />

10 smorgaswear, comp & letters<br />

14 controversy<br />

18 summer threads<br />

22 stuff<br />

26 simple pleasures<br />

38 turning over a new leaf<br />

44 the friendliest of pirates<br />

46 gut feeling<br />

50 gear<br />

63 art & music<br />

cover photo<br />

surfer: filipe alvarez<br />

photo: @ikertonix<br />

WINNER<br />




AWARDS 2013<br />





AWARDS 2017<br />

want to get your hands on a copy?<br />

there’s three ways to score yourself a<br />

copy of smorgasboarder.<br />

1) subscribe - the mag is still free - you<br />

just pay for delivery. 4 editions per year -<br />

$25 annual subscription (Aus and NZ)<br />

2) call in to one of the businesses<br />

featured in this mag - they’ll have some<br />

free copies. If they're not, they won't.<br />

3) download or read it online at<br />

smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

<strong>Smorgasboarder</strong> is published by Huge C Media PTY<br />

LTD ABN 30944673055. All information is correct at<br />

time of going to press. The publication cannot accept<br />

responsibility for errors in articles or advertisements, or<br />

unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or illustrations.<br />

The opinions and words of the authors do not<br />

necessarily represent those of the publishers. All rights<br />

reserved. Reproduction in part or whole is strictly<br />

prohibited without prior permission.<br />

listen up!<br />

the<br />

smorgasboarder<br />

podcast:<br />

full-length interviews and<br />

conversations<br />

enjoy an intimate listen-in with<br />

alex and dave, as they have<br />

interesting chats with interesting<br />

people about surfing, surfboard<br />

building and completely unrelated<br />

things.<br />

available on:<br />

iTunes/Apple Podcasts<br />

Spotify<br />

Buzzsprout<br />

(search for smorgasboarder and<br />

remember to hit subscribe)<br />

or listen on our website<br />

smorgasboarder.com.au for<br />

additional links and show notes<br />

8<br />

editorial<br />

dave swan<br />

dave@smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

0401 345 201<br />

editorial contributer<br />

alex benaud<br />

alex@smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

0423 950 235<br />

advertising<br />

tami argaman<br />

tami@smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

0466 439 330<br />

new zealand<br />

jiff morris<br />

jeff@smorgasboarder.co.nz<br />

0220 943 913<br />

south australia<br />

jimmy ellis<br />

james@smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

0410 175 552<br />

design<br />

the team at horse & water creative<br />

mark, kate, helen, taylah<br />

mark@horseandwater.com.au<br />

accounts<br />

louise gough<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

new smorgaswear<br />

dumbest comp ever<br />

Time to refresh the wardrobe! New smorgasboarder<br />

t-shirts are available now for only $39 online at:<br />

www.smorgasboarder.com.au/shop<br />

This is the dumbest competition we’ve ever run.<br />

As a joke, asking for you to send in nice thoughts<br />

and compliments about the mag, we honestly<br />

expected a few sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek jabs and<br />

jokes along the lines of “I read it in the dunny - now<br />

send me free stuff…”<br />

What happened instead was a tidal wave of<br />

appreciation and heartfelt stories about the impact<br />

of our little mag on everyday surfers’ lives.<br />

This has made choosing a winner the worst job<br />

ever - it was a nigh impossible task which is why<br />

we have taken so bloody long. Sorry.<br />

Good news is, we finally committed to it, and the<br />

lucky winner of the major prize is Paul Tickner -<br />

congrats! Paul’s entry and kind words are below.<br />

That said, not leaving all the rest of you great,<br />

magical supporters unloved in return, we’re<br />

shouting every single entry some $ to spend on the<br />

smorgasboarder shop online. It’s the least we can<br />

do, so please check your email in the next few days.<br />

Stylish<br />

pocket print<br />

Look dead sexy<br />

in this season’s<br />

design, available<br />

in deeply<br />

contemplative blue<br />

and cool, classic<br />

white...<br />

Thank you all! You make the trip worthwhile!<br />

The reason I love <strong>Smorgasboarder</strong> is that it is<br />

the only water-sport magazine that centres on<br />

board riding (snow, land and water), the culture<br />

and people that are involved at the ‘grass roots<br />

level’ throughout Australia and New Zealand (and<br />

sometimes overseas!).<br />

It takes us back to the roots and reasons we all are<br />

involved in whatever form of board riding/wave riding<br />

we enjoy and the creative juices of others and our<br />

own creativity in the water, whether we are on it, in it,<br />

or under it!<br />

<strong>Smorgasboarder</strong> talks to all surfers/water folk,<br />

regardless of ability and presents surfing as an all<br />

embracing culture with a combination of friendship,<br />

environmental awareness, news, art, pure stoke and<br />

the reason we do it - fun!<br />

Classy,<br />

retro-inspired<br />

surf couture<br />

backprint,<br />

spiced with<br />

custom<br />

illustration<br />

Oh, and did I mention its free!<br />

Paul<br />

Thanks Paul. We couldn’t sum up what<br />

<strong>Smorgasboarder</strong> is all about any better ourselves.<br />

It also goes to show the far-reaching appeal of our<br />

mag. Lower Snug in Tasmania, where Paul resides,<br />

is just about as far as you can get from the warm<br />

shores of the Sunshine Coast.<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

A<br />

B<br />

O<br />

U<br />

T<br />



A little over 3 months ago a man named Grey, stumbled<br />

upon 10 boards up for sale for $250. Too good to turn<br />

down, he took them up on the offer.<br />

He asked around his circle for anyone who had any<br />

boards and ended up buying 30 more by the end of the<br />

day. With a growing quiver of single fins, twinnies, mals<br />

and high-performance thrusters, he was forced to open<br />

up shop. 3<strong>47</strong> B King St, Newcastle became his new<br />

home. Three months on, Grey’s newfound addiction is<br />

in full swing and trading is now his forte with a current<br />

quiver of around 400 boards… he thinks.<br />

Boardwalk now is a Newcastle-based second-hand<br />

surfboard store who buy, sell, trade and rent quality<br />

watertight surfboards at realistic prices.<br />

From single fins to mal’s<br />

and right through to highperformance<br />

thrusters,<br />

Boardwalk has an extensive<br />

quiver sure to get you out in the<br />

water soon.<br />

If you buy any board and it doesn’t suit you for whatever<br />

reason, bring it back and trade up or down, assuring you<br />

find the perfect board. Come have a browse through<br />

Boardwalk and find your next magic carpet.<br />

Their preference is to trade so bring in your dust<br />

collectors and swap them around for something you’ll<br />

love. Contact them for freight options via email or<br />

website.<br />


374 B King St, Newcastle<br />

New South Wales 11<br />

E boardwalksurfboards@gmail.com<br />

W www.boardwalksurfboards.com

smorgasboarder<br />

we got it wrong!<br />

We must admit it happens, and when it does, we<br />

are more than willing to confess.<br />

On the cover of our last edition we featured the<br />

amazing work of NZ surf photographer Craig<br />

Levers, but we incorrectly named the surfer as Sam<br />

Mathers. He was in fact the surfer on our editorial<br />

Foreword on page 3. The surfer on the cover was<br />

Dune Kennings and there is an interesting story<br />

behind this photo. Craig Levers filled us in.<br />

Brooooo!<br />

Dune Kennings text me late last night, we got the<br />

cover of the latest <strong>Smorgasboarder</strong>!<br />

I’ve just read through the online version and I<br />

have to say I am absolutely stoked with it. Love<br />

the edit of photos you’ve used, I feel like it really<br />

showcases my deal.<br />

I reckon the interview is excellent, especially<br />

considering the waffle you had to rifle through. I<br />

have been thinking for months, man, Dave has got<br />

a onerous task distilling that down, you’ve done a<br />

great job mate. LOVE the layouts. Thank you bro.<br />

When I left NZ Surfing Mag, knowing that the new<br />

editor did not want to use my contributions, it was<br />

hard to know I’d never get a cover again. I could<br />

not be more stoked.<br />

So there’s very cool story behind the cover shot.<br />

Dune’s dad Lynden shaped that board for Dune<br />

when he was four years old, on January 1st 2000<br />

[after/during a huge Y2K bender.] Dune learnt<br />

to surf on that board. The day we shot that<br />

sequence Dune had left his ‘proper’ boards in a<br />

mate’s car but he had ol’ Orange, so he paddled<br />

out on that, and we got some great hook ups.<br />

Lynden and I are good mates, and I remember<br />

the board being shaped, seeing Dune stand up on<br />

it, Lynden ‘giving’ me the exclusive in 2000- not<br />

doing anything about that exclusive.... but then 18<br />

years later shooting Dune ripping on his very first<br />

board.<br />

There’s always a ‘BUT’ and sorry to bring this to<br />

your attention. Both Dune and I are absolutely<br />

stoked to have the cover.... but it has been<br />

credited as Sam Mathers in Raglan... I suspect<br />

the caption from the Intro page got transposed<br />

over.<br />

Only tiny, tiny blight on a huge stoke out. But<br />

could you put a correction in the next issue?<br />

Here’s Dune and THAT board. Great little story.<br />

What do they say, every cloud has a silver lining.<br />


smorgasboarder<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

#fightforthebight<br />

oil<br />

&<br />

water<br />

Petter Foshaug<br />

Instagram @its.petter<br />

DON’T MIX<br />

the fight continues<br />

words: jimmy ellis<br />

Following on from our #fightforthebight feature<br />

Oil & Water Don’t Mix in our Sumer edition last<br />

year and again in Autumn this year, there is more<br />

to report and further action for our fellow watermen<br />

and waterwomen to take.<br />

In May 2019 the Great Australian Bight Alliance<br />

sent a delegation to Norway raising awareness<br />

about Equinor’s plans to carry out deep sea<br />

exploration drilling in the Great Australian Bight<br />

Marine Park.<br />

Within hours of arriving in Norway’s capital Oslo,<br />

the delegation’s Bunna Lawrie, Peter Owen and<br />

Jess Lerch were in Parliament House meeting<br />

Norwegian Green Kristoffer Robin. He has been<br />

raising awareness about Bight drilling risks in the<br />

Norwegian Parliament. There were many packed<br />

public meetings. Events where the beauty of the<br />

Bight was on full display accompanied by music,<br />

film and panel discussions.<br />

The Alliance then held one of its now famous<br />

paddle out events at the Oslo Opera House.<br />

Patagonia ambassador, fisherman and surfer Heath<br />

Joske led the call from his surfboard “Fight for the<br />

Bight”. Hundreds of Norwegians joined in with this<br />

spectacular action.<br />

It was emphasised that Equinor have so much<br />

potential to be a world leader in renewable energy<br />

and part of the climate solution. Why risk their<br />

reputation and our future with Bight oil drilling?<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

It was emphasised that<br />

Equinor have so much<br />

potential to be a world<br />

leader in renewable<br />

energy and part of the<br />

climate solution.<br />

Why risk their<br />

reputation and our<br />

future with Bight oil<br />

drilling?<br />

The delegation returned to Parliament House for a<br />

meeting with Lars Haltbrekken from the Socialist<br />

Left Party who shared our concerns. Then came<br />

a significant meeting, with a line-up of Norway’s<br />

senior Government officials. Including Norwegian<br />

Ministry of Petroleum and Energy State Secretaries<br />

Rikard Gaarder Knutsen and Liv Lonnum. The<br />

delegation discussed Norway’s tremendous<br />

potential to be a leader in renewable energy<br />

solutions and climate mitigation.<br />

With the delegation still in Norway and just 48<br />

hours before the Australian election, Wilderness<br />

Society SA Director Peter Owen performed a<br />

live interview on ABC TV across Australia. Peter<br />

outlined the delegation’s activities in Norway and<br />

what it hoped to achieve through addressing the<br />

Equinor Board a few hours later.<br />

“We need to be transitioning out of the<br />

fossil fuel industry in order to have a<br />

liveable future” said Peter Owen of the<br />

Wilderness Society.<br />

Petter Foshaug Instagram @its.petter<br />

Australian delegation (L to R) Heath Joske,<br />

Peter Owen, Brynn O’Brien, Bunna Lawrie,<br />

Jess Lerch and Rune Woldsnes<br />

The ALP and the Liberal National Party committed<br />

to: “commission an independent audit of<br />

NOPSEMA’s current consideration of exploration<br />

in the Great Australian Bight” and that “The<br />

independent audit will be jointly commissioned by<br />

the Minister for Resources and the Minister for the<br />

Environment. The Chief Scientist will be asked to<br />

work with NOPSEMA to assure all environmental<br />

considerations are thoroughly considered as part<br />

of the assessment process and decision making<br />

of the independent regulator.” The Chief Scientist<br />

would undertake targeted consultation with a range<br />

of stakeholders to inform his audit.<br />

Thus far NOPSEMA has been unable to make a<br />

decision on Equinor’s plans and has requested for<br />

further information twice this year. The next update<br />

will coincide with the press release from Australia’s<br />

Chief Scientist at the end of August 2019 [when this<br />

issue goes to print].<br />

Thanks to all Australian and Norwegian citizens,<br />

surfers who paddled out across Australia and<br />

around the globe for your support, along with the<br />

delegation... and maybe you… Join and sign the<br />

statement of concern.<br />

fightforthebight.org.au<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

luminary<br />

words: dave swan<br />

A focus on good design permeates every aspect of<br />

the surf industry from surfboards though to fashion<br />

and even the development of the individual brands<br />

themselves. We recently caught up with Lucy<br />

Borrill, co-founder of Lumo Design Studio to talk<br />

about these very topics given she is an avid surfer<br />

with a love for creating authentic brands.<br />

Looking through your social media feed, aside<br />

from an array of stunning creative work, you<br />

appear to have a real affinity for the ocean. When<br />

and where did this begin?<br />

The ocean has been apart of my life as long as<br />

I can remember. My dad is an avid sailer so I’ve<br />

spent my whole life on the ocean. Once I started<br />

surfing, my life was changed forever. It became<br />

a core aspect of who I am and what inspires my<br />

creativity, curiosity and values.<br />

I noted you recently worked with the Burleigh<br />

Longboard Club. I saw you have put together<br />

a nice little website for them. How did that<br />

association come about?<br />

When I moved to the Gold Coast I wanted to join a<br />

board club, so I jumped online and quickly realised<br />

most of the local board clubs had such outdated<br />

websites it was hard to tell if any were still running.<br />

Luckily, I met someone who knew the president of<br />

Burleigh Long Boarders and soon enough I joined<br />

the club. Straight away I updated the website and<br />

the response from the members was overwhelming.<br />

I managed to resurrect the history of the club and<br />

make it accessible once more - that was a great<br />

feeling.<br />

So I take it you are interested in working with<br />

businesses involved with the surf industry?<br />

Yes definitely. I already have a few surf industry<br />

clients and I have found that building brands with<br />

people that share the same passion as I do is so<br />

inspiring - there is just some level of understanding<br />

between ocean lovers that is so special.<br />

So what would you say is the core focus of your<br />

creative work?<br />

To create bloody good branding.<br />

What is your approach to achieving this?<br />

We view every project holistically. Building brands<br />

rather than just designing something one-off<br />

creates authenticity and that is what we are about.<br />

Tell us about branding? Why is it so important?<br />

So recently I shaped my own surfboard in a<br />

workshop with the legendary Richard Harvey. It was<br />

here I realised that shaping is a great analogy for<br />

the importance of branding.<br />

A finished hand-shaped surfboard is a visual<br />

pleasure. The board style, colours and logo all<br />

work to tell a story. However, just like branding,<br />

the visual identity is only one part. The true beauty<br />

of your board is how it is shaped for the rider and<br />

the waves for which it will be ridden on. Plenty of<br />

research is put into the dynamics of the board to<br />

optimise it for the surfer. These ‘dynamics’ are also<br />

present in branding. The verbal identity and values<br />

of your brand are just as important. If you get these<br />

right, you will create authenticity for your brand’s<br />

values that will connect with the right audience and<br />

create longevity and trust.<br />

Our field of work is fun, but it is also a means of<br />

funding some leisure time. What’s your dream<br />

surf holiday?<br />

Crescent Head with a few mates and my dog.<br />

Coffee, surfing, beach driving and making pasta in<br />

the evening. Keeping it simple and appreciating the<br />

beautiful country we are so lucky to live in.<br />

lumodesignstudio.com<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

What’s<br />

your<br />

dream<br />

surf<br />

holiday?<br />

Crescent<br />

Head with<br />

a few mates<br />

and my dog.<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

s u m m e r t h r e a d s<br />

1.<br />

1. Baku - Covent Garden Bikini $80 tops, $50 bottoms 2. Billabong - Sunday Two Ways Tie<br />

Bikini $59.99 (top), Sunday Maui Rider Bikini Bottom $59.99 3. Billabong Crossfire Stripe<br />

Jumpsuit $109.99 4. Instore at Natural Necessity 5. Afends Sarah Hemp Playsuit - $109.99<br />

6. Salt Gypsy - Mid Tide Mustard $955 7. Huge range available at Natural Necessity<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

2.<br />

3.<br />

4. 5.<br />

summer threads<br />

Natural Necessity Surfshop has<br />

over 5000 swimwear pieces in<br />

stock right now, plus a massive<br />

range of surfwear and fashion.<br />

It’s not your typical surfshop<br />

limited to the major surf brands.<br />

For 42 years the shop has<br />

chosen the best styles from the<br />

best surf and fashion labels for<br />

your Australian coastal lifestyle.<br />

6.<br />

Check out naturalnecessity.<br />

com.au online, or visit beautiful<br />

Gerringong and while you’re<br />

there, get expert help with their<br />

mega range of wetsuits. If that’s<br />

not enough, a must see is their<br />

amazing surfboard quiver with a<br />

1000 boards in stock.<br />

naturalnecessity.com.au<br />

7.<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

coastin bali<br />

Our good mate Jason Ade Ardhi Putra whose inspired freehand artwork featured in Issue<br />

39 back in 2017 has recently launched his own handmade clothing label aptly named<br />

Coastin Bali. Celebrating Bali’s tropical island vibe and laidback lifestyle, the piece’s derive<br />

inspiration from Ade’s love for the art of Jim Phillips and Kentaro Yoshida.<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

kenoath<br />

Kenoath is an Australian streetwear label blending wheels and waves<br />

subcultures. As explained by founder Des Hughes, The Kenoath namesake is<br />

born from what he considers is “one of Australia’s most loved slang words.<br />

“For some, finding our brand is a sense of discovery, ‘does it really mean<br />

that?’ For others, the brand immediately speaks to them and resonates with<br />

their positivity and enthusiasm.”<br />

In a nutshell Kenoath is Australian for YES.<br />

“Our designs veer from trend. More like wearable art, Kenoath captures<br />

the detail and richness of the 1970/80’s and blends a vintage feel with a<br />

modern style. Wearing Kenoath is fun. You see the downward glance,<br />

the smirk, the nod and the wink. ‘Where’d ya get the shirt?’“<br />

The Kenoath logo has two spears in the design element and they<br />

have a special significance. The left spear points to our past with<br />

love and reverence and the right spear points confidently to the<br />

future.<br />

Said Des, “Fashion is a material expression of you and it conveys<br />

your personality and vibe. Kenoath is all about positivity and<br />

enthusiasm and we hope this aligns with you.”<br />

kenoath.com.au<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

stuff<br />

board traction for the 21st century<br />

Looking for a wax free traction solution? Contribute<br />

to a more sustainable planet with RSPro traction<br />

products.<br />

No more mess or missing waves while you’re waxing<br />

up! HexaTraction is a modular traction system to suit<br />

any size board and can be combined with our cork<br />

front foot deck grip where a greater level of traction is<br />

required.<br />

rspro.com.au<br />

real surf<br />

In the creation of the Wellington surf scene, only<br />

slightly less important than the Duke bringing surfing to<br />

Wellington in 1917, was Roger Titcombe picking up the<br />

planer and sureform in 1971. A place where dinosaurs,<br />

humans, savants and degenerates frequent to babble<br />

questionable surf chat, REAL SURF is a Wellington<br />

surfing institution. The Wellington surf scene may have<br />

changed a bit since 1971, but like the Wellington wind,<br />

Roger and the Real Surf team remain relentless in their<br />

pursuit of being Aotearoa's No.1 core surf store.<br />

realsurf.co.nz<br />

pedal and paddle<br />

Explore Whangamata in Spring! Sea and land are both<br />

uncrowded, crisp and clean. It truly is an amazing place<br />

especially at this time of year.<br />

Pedal and Paddle have extensive knowledge of their<br />

area and will send you in the right direction with all the<br />

right equipment. Simple fun.<br />

pedalandpaddle.co.nz<br />

coastal sports kaikoura<br />

The cold water specialists. "We get you further and out<br />

there for longer. Not just your average surf shop, we<br />

believe in gettng you out having more adventures in the<br />

water or on the land, need quality gear we’ve got you<br />

covered, need info, we’ve been sharing our passion for<br />

the surf and outdoors since 2003.<br />

Same Location for 16 years."<br />

Call on +64 3 319 5028<br />

coastalsports.co.nz<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

stuff<br />

Get a crew together and head to the<br />

best left hand breaks NZ can offer<br />

ghost racks<br />

You read about it in the last edition, there just<br />

wasn’t much to see! It’s one of the downsides to<br />

promoting something that is near invisible.<br />

However, there’s no hiding the strength of these<br />

Ghost Racks. This is their latest creation - a corner<br />

rack. This one is taking pride of place at my house,<br />

caressing my much loved Wayne Lynch single fin.<br />

ghostracks.com.au<br />

Raglan holiday park is expanding!!<br />

Our new group lodge can accommodate small<br />

surf groups, family groups or school groups.<br />

You can have exclusive use of the complex plus<br />

conference facility if required.<br />

We can organise surf lessons, board hire,<br />

catering, paddle boarding, kayaking, just 2<br />

minutes walk to town.<br />

Stage two will be available for bookings<br />

May 2020, this will include kitchen dinning<br />

plus bathroom / laundry block and two more<br />

accommodation blocks.<br />

Contact us now to enquire about our new<br />

complex. You can book online or<br />

email stay@raglanholidaypark.co.nz<br />

raglanholidaypark.co.nz<br />

Photo Credit Jwan Milek<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

stuff<br />

“Out of the crooked timber of<br />

humanity, nothing completely straight<br />

was ever made”- Isaiah Berlin<br />

Robert Hollis,<br />

Sunshine Coast<br />

solicitor at Tomamu,<br />

on another NZSHRED<br />

Japan Tour<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

stuff<br />

Robert Hollis, Sunshine Coast solicitor at<br />

Tomamu, on another NZSHRED Japan Tour<br />

wood be good<br />

Man’s affiliation with wood and timber has been with us<br />

since the dawn of time. Wood has directed humans very<br />

existence … from the ability to create warmth, through<br />

the fashioning of tools, to a more modern day aesthetic<br />

appreciation in terms of the toys that give us both<br />

pleasure and release.<br />

From our own very early days we've had an affinity with<br />

it, remembering how you’d get some offcut plywood from<br />

Dad’s shed, place a besser brick at either end and one<br />

in the middle … then start watering it. After a few days<br />

of sag and some sunny hours to dry, you had your new<br />

skate deck. Nowadays there are some beautifully created<br />

pieces created by brands such as Sector Nine and<br />

Globe, as well as the aptly named Arbor.<br />

Snowboarding too draws it’s early day development from<br />

the simplicity of fashioning wood, as seen in boards such<br />

as the Burton Throwback. As the name suggests, it's a<br />

modern replica of those earliest of days sliding sideways<br />

down a snowy incline, balanced, but untethered … a<br />

treat for the accomplished rider, a yardsale for the novice.<br />

And now at the pointy end of modern snowboarding,<br />

brands such as Jones base the majority of their range<br />

around that human connection to the naturality of wood.<br />

In fact, every board produced starts its life as a tree, is<br />

then made into timber laminates, through to its finality<br />

with a wooden top sheet - as seen in classics such as<br />

the Hovercraft and the Flagship. Sustainability is not<br />

just a catch phrase, it is a life virtue when it comes to<br />

manufacturing by this brand.<br />

In fact, in Jeremy’s own words...<br />

“If only snowboards grew on trees,<br />

born from simply seed, soil, water and<br />

sunshine…”<br />

These are the values that NZSHRED stands for and these<br />

are the brands that NZSHRED partners with!<br />

NZ Shred<br />

nzshred.co.nz<br />


smorgasboarder<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

p l e a s u r e s<br />

words: jimmy ellis<br />

Filipe Alvarez surfs anything extremely well, and whilst he is a qualified<br />

architect, he has no grand plans laid out for his future.<br />

photo: @ikertonix<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

I DIDN’T<br />

REALLY<br />





IT JUST<br />





ALWAYS<br />


AND BY<br />




THE WAY I<br />

LIKED.<br />

Looking through truckloads of photos from his<br />

surfing adventures around the globe we were<br />

keen to hear how Filipe came to live his life so<br />

free.<br />

“I studied Architecture, liked it but not to the<br />

point to get passionate about it. I got my degree<br />

and went straight to Patagonia (the region<br />

encompassing the vast southernmost tip of South<br />

America, shared by Argentina and Chile).<br />

“I stayed one year in one of the most beautiful<br />

places of the world, Torres del Paine National<br />

Park. I worked as a guide, doing amazing hikes<br />

and advanced horse rides since I was already<br />

familiar with horses. It was just a sublime time<br />

there.”<br />

Following his sojourn, Filipe returned to his<br />

hometown of Reñaca, a beachside area within the<br />

Valparaiso Region of Chile. There he worked for a<br />

couple for years in his profession as an architect<br />

on various social projects.<br />

“It was nice to help many people, but it wasn’t<br />

really developing my creativity. It was more<br />

coordination - being a connector between<br />

government, people and contractors.<br />

“I was working there when I got a call from me<br />

good friend Roberto telling my about a cheap<br />

flight to Australia. I bought it immediately and<br />

applied for the working holiday visa. Got it. I knew<br />

it was going to be the beginning of something<br />

uncertain and good, that’s what trips are!”<br />

Filipe set off for Australia in August 2011. He<br />

stayed mostly in Margaret River for a period of<br />

about 11 months.<br />

“A solid bloke called Glenn, (I see him sometimes<br />

ripping outside corner in Uluwatu) exchanged<br />

with me his car for a carton of beer - Emu Export<br />

ha ha.<br />

“It was an old but faithful car. It saved me those<br />

11 months. I then went to Bali for the first time.”<br />

His trip to Bali was followed in quick succession<br />

by trips to Mexico, the Dominican Republic,<br />

Hawaii, Mexico again, Hawaii, Nicaragua, Hawaii,<br />

Bali, Hawaii, Chile, Hawaii, Bali, Hawaii, New<br />

Zealand (or Aotearoa as Filipe refers to it), Chile,<br />

Nicaragua...<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

photo supplied courtesy of Filipe Alvarez<br />


smorgasboarder<br />






AND GOOD...<br />

photo supplied courtesy of<br />

Filipe Alvarez<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

“Mostly Bali and Hawaii. I lost a bit of the exact<br />

order but something like that.<br />

“I’ve met so many amazing people, all kinds: the<br />

good, the bad, the evil, the ugly, the wise and the<br />

others... all carrying some lessons.<br />

“I’ve worked on everything you can imagine.<br />

“I didn’t really decide to change my life to live more<br />

simple, it just happened by following my intuition.<br />

Simpleness always fitted me and by getting out of<br />

city life I could live the way I liked.<br />

“Life in the city is supposed to simplify our lives but<br />

for me it was exactly the opposite.”<br />

Filipe simply continued on his journey with no<br />

particular end in sight. It’s been 8 years now and he<br />

sees no reason for the endless adventure to stop.<br />

“Opposite to how an architect thinks, I don’t plan<br />

anything. It just doesn’t work for me. I like the<br />

uncertain future. I like living simple day by day,<br />

aware and awake, easy, calm but never too relaxed.<br />

“I am grateful for every day we have. How sublime<br />

is to be able to walk on the beach, get in the<br />

water, hold your breath, go down and observe<br />

this underwater world for a few minutes, remove<br />

yourself from the routine.. and then remember you<br />

need to... breathe. Go up and really breathe !! (He<br />

laughs) It’s just so simple and good. And then surf...<br />

every surfing session is a pure connection with ALL,<br />

the inner and outer.”<br />

In February 2018 Filipe received a message on<br />

Instagram with a photo of a poster promoting<br />

Buffalo’s Big Board Surfing Classic to be held in<br />

Makaha that very month, saying ‘come down’. And<br />

so he did. In a move that would have most of us<br />

reaching for the brown boardies, to Filipe it was the<br />

chance to go on another adventure, to live life to<br />

the full.<br />

“Yes, I went there and camped in my van. Bought<br />

it for $500 from surf legend Jock Sutherland. It<br />

was supposed to work just good enough for 1 or 2<br />

seasons, it’s been 6.<br />

“It was great to see everyone come together to<br />

enjoy the different forms of surfing. Hokule’a was<br />

there too with some crew from Rapa Nui learning<br />

ancestral sailing the traditional way.”<br />

For those unaware, Hōkūleʻa is a traditional<br />

Polynesian double-hulled voyaging canoe that<br />

brought the first Polynesians to the archipelago<br />

of Hawaii. These canoes had reportedly almost<br />

reached cultural extinction until artist Herb Kane<br />

dreamed of rebuilding a double-hulled sailing canoe<br />

similar to the ones that his ancestors sailed.<br />

Launched on the 8th of March,1975 by the<br />

Polynesian Voyaging Society, Hokule’a conducted<br />

numerous voyages exclusively using Polynesian<br />

celestial navigation techniques. These voyages<br />

included the likes of Japan, Canada, mainland<br />

United States, Micronesia,Tahiti, New Zealand and<br />

Rapa Nui, one of the most isolated islands on earth,<br />

at the far southeastern corner of the Polynesian<br />

Triangle.<br />

“I went for a swim and got to see the voyaging<br />

canoe from inside. Chatted with my Rapa Nui<br />

friends. Ooh Rapa Nui, that’s a whole new episode.<br />

I went there in 2009 - powerful mana land in the<br />

middle of the biggest ocean.”<br />

The whole atmosphere in Makaha was pure surfing<br />

joy for Filipe.<br />

“What most surprised me was to see others surfing<br />

alaia. Until that point, I had only seen people surfing<br />

alaia on few videos.<br />

“Wooaaa, in Makaha I saw really good alaia surfing:<br />

amazing style, speed, flow manoeuvres. They really<br />

deal with the backwash and even use it to boost<br />

something on it, with such naturality. I was so<br />

impressed and happy to see it.”<br />

He noted the Hawaiians were ripping on 5’6” alaias.<br />

It brought him to the realisation that he needed to<br />

try a smaller alaia. Filipe was surfing a 6’7”.<br />

“All good Aloha vibes, everyone cheering and<br />

sharing ! It is a sacred land. I wish the very best for<br />

the Hawaiian people. They have opened their arms<br />

and welcomed so many people, but sometimes the<br />

visitors take more than what they should.”<br />

At this point Filipe referred to The Mauna Kea<br />

conflict. Mauna Kea on the “Big Island” of Hawaii is<br />

reportedly the highest island mountain in the world.<br />

It is considered sacred to native Hawaiian religion,<br />

being the home of several deities. It is also the<br />

site of the world’s largest observatory for infrared<br />

and submillimtre telescopes. With plans afoot<br />

to susbequently build one of the world’s largest<br />

optical telescopes, the Thirty Meter Telescope<br />

(TMT), protests were waged to discontinue further<br />

development of the mountain. On the 30th October,<br />

2018 the Supreme Court of Hawaii approved the<br />

resumption of construction of the TMT.<br />

“It is bringing native Hawaiians a huge sense of<br />

unity and revival of their roots. I hope they achieve<br />

their right to defend their land and keep the<br />

mountain sacred.”<br />


smorgasboarder<br />




“After what I saw in Makaha I started shaping and<br />

trying smaller alaia boards. So far my favorites are<br />

a 6’0” that glides amazingly good. But it got broken<br />

in Uluwatu in a non-repairable way. Another is a<br />

5’6” that I’m currently using. I have broken and<br />

repaired it about 6 times and it still rides amazing.<br />

“At the moment I’m trying to find some wood here<br />

in Bali. I can’t wait to shape a few Alaias here in<br />

Uluwatu.”<br />

It is here our conversation turned to surfboards and<br />

their cost to local islanders.<br />

“It’s expensive. Within the whole spectrum of<br />

surfboard qualities and prices, the average price<br />

of a surfboard is around $500+ USD (around $740<br />

AUD). So to buy a new surfboard you must either<br />

have a good salary (most of the population don’t)<br />

or sacrifice a lot to buy a surfboard hoping it won’t<br />

break in your first session.<br />

“I have been surfing for 25 years and I’ve never<br />

bought a new surfboard in my life. I always get<br />

second hand surfboards, some decent, some hard<br />

to adapt, but I’ve always made them surf. In places<br />

like Oahu, where some of the best surfboards are<br />

made and people are constantly renewing their<br />

quiver, it’s easy to find good second hand boards.<br />

But then in places like Indonesia, where if you are<br />

a lucky local you earn $150 USD per month, it<br />

becomes very hard to get a surfboard, especially<br />

on remote islands where most surfboards are<br />

donated or traded by visitors.<br />

“You will see kids paddling on half boards or<br />

chunks of wood trying to catch anything similar to<br />

a wave or a white water rush. That’s where it gets<br />

interesting!”<br />

With a true sense of passion, Filipe speaks of the<br />

local kids’ desire to surf using whatever they can<br />

find to “go on this supreme joyful activity called<br />

surfing.” It is then he speaks of project he is trying<br />

to get up and running.<br />

“I would love to go to remote islands to share and<br />

spread the simplicity of alaia surfing. Exchange<br />

knowledge with locals, learn as much as I can from<br />

them, and share with them as much as I know.<br />

Show them how easy it can be to make their own<br />

surfboards. Alaia surfing has endless benefits and<br />

it’s positive from every point of view.”<br />

Filipe lists all the benefits as he sees them.<br />

“It’s a direct connection with the ocean and the<br />

roots of surfing. (I realised I was reading the book<br />

of surfing from the middle, now, on Alaia, I’m<br />

surfing it from the beginning).<br />

“It gets you on a very healthy and fit state, just by<br />

having fun.<br />

“It’s Earth friendly, and a great opportunity to<br />

encourage sustainability - care for the environment.<br />

“It’s very cheap if we use resources the right way.<br />

“It’s pure surfing! The sense of non-friction just 18<br />

millimetres from the water, fully connected, it’s just<br />

a sublime joy.<br />

“I also see this as a great opportunity to create<br />

awareness. Grow in the right direction.<br />

“We all need food, shelter, health and education,<br />

conscious progress. But we must be very careful<br />

with this hungry monster called development,<br />

which is not making us grow, it’s just making us fat.<br />

It’s important to recognise what life quality really is<br />

and the simplicity of happiness. To not disconnect<br />

from the essence of Earth.”<br />

Filipe recalls when he first started surfing and<br />

shaping alaias he said to himself, “I’m going<br />

forward to the roots.<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

photo supplied courtesy of<br />

Filipe Alvarez<br />

photo: @juanpabloreyes<br />

Alaia shaped in Punta de Lobos,<br />

Chile. June 2017<br />

photo: @juanpabloreyes<br />

Alaia shaped in Puertecillo - Chile<br />

photo:@juanpabloreyes<br />

photo supplied courtesy of<br />

Filipe Alvarez<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

photo: @martin.sanchez_photos<br />


smorgasboarder<br />


TO HOW AN<br />





WORK FOR ME.<br />

I LIKE THE<br />




DAY BY DAY,<br />


AWAKE, EASY,<br />




smorgasboarder<br />

“A couple years later, on a documentary, I heard<br />

this quote that goes in the same direction: ‘History<br />

has shown in many native cultures that the path to<br />

a better future comes by following the way of the<br />

ancestors.’”<br />

Filipe is always refining his beloved alaia. It has<br />

broken many times, and somehow it lives on.<br />

Last year whilst on Hawaii’s North Shore, Filipe was<br />

hanging out with Kohl Christiansen and tweaking<br />

an alaia’s tail shape when out of the pathway came<br />

Gerry Lopez. Interested in Filipe’s modifications,<br />

they chatted about what they had learnt through<br />

experience riding alaias. Gerry was so into it, Filipe<br />

offered to make him one. In Filipe’s words, “I was<br />

honoured to make him one”.<br />

Apparently Gerry was beaming with excitement as<br />

he was planning a trip to Mexico later that year<br />

and had a small point break in mind that suited his<br />

type of alaia surfing. With the deadline set, Filipe<br />

ensured he delivered, and both were stoked with<br />

the end result. It marked another notable chapter in<br />

his life’s adventure.<br />

This current surf season Filipe found an abandoned<br />

bungalow near his regular homestay. With a mate<br />

and the Balinese family Nyoman whom own the<br />

land, they have renovated the space.<br />

Filipe and the family now rent rooms out to couples<br />

for IRp 250,000 ($25AUD p/n), and families for<br />

IRP 500,000 ($AUD50 p/n) a night. The proceeds<br />

are split between the family and paying for further<br />

garden renovations.<br />

Next season they hope to generate a modest<br />

income and for Filipe it’s further opportunity to<br />

continue the endless Alvarez summer. If you’re<br />

interested check it out: @saranguluwatu<br />

To follow more of Filipe’s adventures go to:<br />

@nomademares<br />

Whilst not for everyone, the simple pleasures Filipe<br />

seeks out has been the making of his contentment.<br />

Filipe’s approach to surfing is the same as his<br />

approach to life - going with the flow. Half a year in<br />

Hawaii, the other half in Uluwatu, wax and wane.<br />

When in Bali he stays in the same simple home stay<br />

each year, just 8 minutes walk from the Uluwatu.<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

photo: @motto_photography<br />

photo supplied courtesy of Filipe Alvarez<br />

photo supplied courtesy of Filipe Alvarez<br />


smorgasboarder<br />


over a new leaf<br />

Red Leaf Surfboards is a small company based<br />

in Gisborne, New Zealand specialising in custom<br />

made high quality timber surfboards and Build Your<br />

Own workshops. They design all their boards using<br />

only the finest natural and recycled materials.<br />

Founder Peter Claydon, was driven by a passion to<br />

create beautiful, durable, performance orientated<br />

surf craft in an environmentally responsible way.<br />

Starting out he used his skills as a furniture maker<br />

to build hollow wooden surfboards and quickly<br />

became addicted to the feeling of riding boards<br />

built by his own hands. Wanting to share that<br />

stoke, he began Red Leaf and now runs workshops<br />

teaching people to build their own timber board.<br />

Over the past couple of years Red Leaf have<br />

developed their board building techniques and<br />

experimented with materials to make lighter weight,<br />

more affordable eco boards, so that even more<br />

people can experience the joy of riding and even<br />

making their own beautiful eco surfcraft. Peter filled<br />

us in on how it all began.<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

photo: derek fryer<br />

surfer: brett summerlee<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

photo: derek fryer<br />

surfer: brett summerlee<br />

photo: phil yeo<br />

photo: jane putnam<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

“I’ve been on a bit of personal journey over the<br />

past couple of years and to be honest it’s changed<br />

me, well changed the way I think really. I used to<br />

think I had to convey an image that everything was<br />

perfect in my world and with my business or people<br />

wouldn’t buy my products or join me on a course.<br />

But for a number of reasons, I am now realising<br />

that this is not the case. There is no right or wrong,<br />

things don’t have to look a certain way, it is what it<br />

is, and is what it is meant to be. Some people will<br />

connect with my story and some won’t, which is all<br />

okay.<br />

“I’m a pretty simple guy really; I want to spend my<br />

time doing what I love – making surfboards - with<br />

flexibility and freedom to enjoy life along the way.”<br />

Peter grew up in the UK, it is there where he<br />

trained and worked as furniture designer/maker,<br />

before immigrating to the stunningly beautiful New<br />

Zealand in 2013.<br />

“I’m a beekeeper, surfer and craftsman. I love good<br />

food, good music and have probably never said no<br />

to a cup of tea in my life.<br />

“But back tracking a bit… I was working as a<br />

furniture maker in the 9 to 5 routine, I was happy<br />

enough but not completely - I had dreams; one of<br />

them was to live in New Zealand and one was to<br />

make my own surfboards.”<br />

Timber surfboards became the conduit for Peter’s<br />

change in lifestyle. It was an obvious choice. He<br />

loved timber, understood it and admitably being<br />

a closet hippy, appreciated it’s sustainability,<br />

durability and beauty.<br />

“In 2011 I had some shit show up in my life. I found<br />

myself without a house, without a job, on my own,<br />

with all my future plans out the window. I didn’t<br />

realise it at the time but this was both a test and a<br />

gift for me. A test to make sure I really wanted what<br />

I thought I wanted and a gift because I thought<br />

‘Well f#ck it, what have I got to lose?! Now is the<br />

time, let’s make some wooden surfboards.’”<br />

With no real idea of how to run a business, Peter<br />

gathered his tools, rented a workspace, begged<br />

and borrowed some machinery and just stepped off<br />

the cliff.<br />

“It was awesome, I spent the first year in business<br />

having the time of my life, being my own boss,<br />

making prototypes and developing my products,<br />

sh*t, I even won an award and ended up on the<br />

front cover of a magazine! I didn’t make much<br />

money, but who needs money, right?<br />

“Despite all the fun and all the money I wasn’t<br />

making, certain things had aligned in my personal<br />

life that made it the right time to move to New<br />

Zealand… my other dream. If I went into details<br />

here this story would turn into a novel! But what I<br />

will tell you is that every imaginable challenge that<br />

could present itself when immigrating to the other<br />

side of the world happily presented themselves in<br />

all their fabulous glory.”<br />

Fast forward a few years and Peter was finally in a<br />

position to re-awaken what he had started with Red<br />

Leaf and commit one hundred percent. But that is<br />

where things got interesting and where his personal<br />

journey really started. It put everything into focus<br />

for his future and the future of Red Leaf - after all<br />

Red leaf is really just an extension of Peter.<br />

“So everything was set, I could live in New Zealand<br />

permanently, I had a house, a home by the sea, a<br />

workshop, a loving partner and even a mental little<br />

cat. And then boom - I got sick, real sick.<br />

“In 2009 I was diagnosed with an autoimmune<br />

condition called Ulcerative Colitis; a condition the<br />

medical world says there is no cure for and doesn’t<br />

know how it is caused. I had a few little niggles with<br />

it early on but nothing very serious, then I had five<br />

years pretty much symptom free and I really didn’t<br />

consider that I had it anymore. But at the end of<br />

2015 it gave me a savage beating and made me<br />

pay attention. I’m talking hospital admissions (x3),<br />

blood transfusions, internal bleeding, anaemia,<br />

extreme weight loss and fatigue. It was pretty<br />

shitty….Errrm…Literally!!”<br />

Peter’s on the other side of it now but for a fair<br />

peiod it kept him away from the things he loved.<br />

“It kept me out of the surf, it kept me away from the<br />

workshop, it kept me away from life really. But as I<br />

sit here now recalling it all I feel kind of happy that<br />

it happened, which sounds a bit messed-up really,<br />

but let me explain….<br />

“I started working with some epic mentors who<br />

helped me to find the positives in my situation -<br />

As they say ‘The gift is in the shit.’ I used to feel<br />

like a victim to Ulcerative Colitis, that it was just<br />

happening to me. The biggest change came for<br />

me when I became aware that my actions had<br />

a part to play in triggering the disease and that<br />

I was fueling my condition with a lot of negative<br />

thought and behaviour. I have come to understand<br />

that I have the option to respond in a different way<br />

and therefore have a different outcome. After all -<br />

Attitude dictates experience.”<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

The more accepting Peter became of his situation,<br />

the easier it was for him to let go of the negative<br />

thought patterns and stories he had running<br />

through his head.<br />

“It allowed me to respond differently, get a different<br />

result and . . . I started to get better!”<br />

There was another positive to come out of his<br />

recovery.<br />

“Spending so long out of the water, out of the<br />

workshop, away from being able to build the<br />

business gave me the time to think about where I<br />

really wanted to take the business. Now more than<br />

ever I want Red Leaf to be a journey about people.<br />

“I would love to share my skills and passion with<br />

as many people as possible, to share the stoke of<br />

building and riding beautiful, sustainable surf craft<br />

made with your own hands.<br />

“To share waves, laughs, stories, experiences and<br />

knowledge and to learn from everyone along the<br />

way. I want to set up events and gatherings, a<br />

community of like-minded people simply wanting to<br />

have a bit of fun and wanting to create.<br />

“This realisation is for me one of the gifts that was<br />

in the shit.”<br />

redleafsurfboards.com<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

photo: derek fryer<br />

surfer: pete claydon<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

the friendliest of pirates<br />

words and photos: alex benaud<br />

Ash Keillah is one of those people that just oozes<br />

positivity, it’s infectious and inspiring because<br />

positivity is fundamental when life throws a spanner<br />

in the works. More commonly known as ‘The<br />

Friendly Pirate’, Ash is a surfer who rips, a soon<br />

to be father, and someone that has overcome an<br />

incredible ordeal that risked to ruin his competitive<br />

surfing career. We recently sat down with the<br />

Friendly Pirate to find out more about his story and<br />

how we can be as happy as him.<br />

Ash, tell us a bit about yourself and where you<br />

come from…<br />

Ash Keillah, I’m 34 and I live in Byron Bay, I’m<br />

better known as ‘the friendly pirate’ and I’m a<br />

mad keen surfer! I was born down in the Northern<br />

Beaches of NSW near Mona Vale hospital where<br />

I did a lot of surfing with my dad! We then moved<br />

up to Coolangatta on the Gold Coast when I was<br />

fairly young and that’s when I really got into surfing.<br />

There’s such a competitive surfing environment<br />

on the Gold Coast which I think really helped me<br />

choose my path as a competitive surfer.<br />

Obviously they call you the Pirate because you<br />

wear an eye patch, how did it happen?<br />

I got hit with a glass when I got caught between<br />

two people fighting about 9 years ago. I had<br />

nothing to do with the fight, I was just in the wrong<br />

place at the wrong time. After the incident I had to<br />

wear an eye patch in between surgeries and when<br />

I finally got my eye out, they offered me a fake eye,<br />

but I was so used to the eye patch that I wasn’t<br />

quite sure what to do. I got a fake eye anyway and<br />

as soon as I had my first surf after the accident, I<br />

tried to pull into a little tube and got lipped in the<br />

head and lost my fake eye. That was enough to<br />

help me make the decision to return to the eye<br />

patch. It was just a lot easier and more comfortable<br />

for me.<br />

My friends gave me the name ‘the friendly pirate’<br />

because of my friendly nature and obviously<br />

because I wore the eye patch, and that’s how it sort<br />

of kicked off.<br />

When you were recovering from the incident in<br />

the hospital what was going through your mind?<br />

My main concern was am I going to be able to surf<br />

again? Just before the injury, I was really thinking<br />

about committing to competing full-time, so that<br />

was quite stressful. But as soon as my friends got<br />

me back in the water, I knew I was good to go.<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

What are some of the biggest physical and mental<br />

differences you have noticed after the incident?<br />

Has it changed the way you surf?<br />

It took some time, especially the first year or two<br />

to get my timing back and my depth perception. I<br />

noticed that it was hard to find where the wave was<br />

actually going to break, for example, if I saw a set<br />

coming, I would paddle too far out or too close to<br />

shore which was quite confusing. Eventually, it all<br />

dropped away after doing a lot of training focusing<br />

on getting used to the new circumstances.<br />

What followed after the recovery?<br />

I really focussed on getting myself mentally strong,<br />

which for me was being in contact with the right<br />

people, listening to a lot of podcasts and dropping<br />

a lot of negative people around me.<br />

Physically I need to turn my head a bit more<br />

(laughs). Mentally I think it has shown me that if<br />

I have come through such an experience, I can<br />

get through absolutely anything. At 34 I’m just<br />

about to start doing the QS, I think my mindset<br />

is strong enough to take me a long way and I’m<br />

really looking forward to it. You just need to listen<br />

to yourself, I have people around me that say at 34<br />

it’s a bit late to be kicking off a QS campaign, but at<br />

the same time, they don’t know what’s in my head<br />

and what I am capable of.<br />

Have you become more of a positive person?<br />

Yeah I think I have definitely become more of a<br />

positive person. I wouldn’t change it for the world,<br />

I’m happy having one eye, my girlfriend loves it and<br />

I surf better now than I did with two eyes.<br />

What advice would you give to someone who is<br />

experiencing a rough moment in their lives?<br />

For me, it’s important to seek out positive role<br />

models, and in the age of internet, it’s not that hard<br />

to do. There are heaps of podcasts on amazing and<br />

inspiring people that have overcome some of the<br />

most demoralising situations. More than likely there<br />

is someone else who has already been through<br />

what you’re experiencing that you can learn from.<br />

No matter how rock bottom you think you are<br />

you can always turn it around, as long as you’re<br />

breathing.<br />

For the bigger, longer conversation listen at<br />

smorgasboarder.com.au/podcast<br />

itunes spotify buzzsprout<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

gut feeling<br />

words and photos: alex benaud<br />

The environment and our mental health.<br />

An insight into how our environment can control our mind.<br />

Living, playing or simply being near the ocean has<br />

an all-around positive effect on our bodies and<br />

our minds. Surfing is without a doubt one of the<br />

healthiest sports to enjoy, as it offers a chance to<br />

disconnect from the fast-paced modern day life<br />

that surrounds many of us and connect with the<br />

peacefulness that the ocean provides. It reduces<br />

stress, lifts our mood, and even helps us overcome<br />

loss and grief. But sometimes we are faced with<br />

psychological and emotional issues that are more<br />

difficult to handle and overcome, sometimes a<br />

simple dip in the ocean isn’t enough to wash away<br />

our troubles.<br />

Jess Gardner, a qualified naturopath with a<br />

bachelor degree in health sciences recently sat<br />

down with <strong>Smorgasboarder</strong> to explain ways our<br />

diet and certain foods we eat can not only affect us<br />

physically but also emotionally. Jess also spoke of<br />

how our environmental footprint can be linked all<br />

the way back to how we think and feel.<br />

“It’s interesting to see how our mental, nutritional<br />

and physical health are all interconnected. It’s<br />

important not to pigeonhole people with mental<br />

health issues such as anxiety, depression and<br />

stress, without looking at upstream factors that<br />

could be influencing and having a flow-on effect on<br />

one’s mental state.”<br />

“Gut health is probably the number one place to<br />

start. Research has interestingly discovered how<br />

our bacteria are involved in the process of making<br />

our neurotransmitters. 80% of our serotonin, which<br />

is our happy neurotransmitter, is actually formulated<br />

within the gut. And our gut’s nerve, ‘the vagus<br />

nerve’, is actually the nerve that communicates<br />

the most with our brain. Scientists have found how<br />

much of a profound effect our gut health can have<br />

on our mental health and the way we think and<br />

feel.”<br />

So what does all of this mean? As Jess infers it<br />

basically means ‘you are what you eat’. If you eat<br />

bad food, you’re going to feel that way.<br />

Another way that we tend to develop underlying<br />

issues relating to stress, depression and anxiety is<br />

feeling the need to close ourselves off to anyone<br />

and everyone. This leaves us susceptible to social<br />

isolation and loneliness, but as surfers, help is<br />

never too far away.<br />

“One of the things that I have really tried to<br />

encourage in people feeling this way is to do the<br />

opposite of what we feel, and that is to connect.<br />

Within a surfing community that can be something<br />

much easier to do, when you are in the water<br />

with other surfers it’s a great chance to connect<br />

and interact. Research shows that when we are<br />

stressed out and have got hormones running<br />

through our body that impact and contribute to that<br />

stress, they can be quietened by connection, which<br />

releases a hormone called oxytocin. Oxytocin is our<br />

love hormone, which is involved in giving us those<br />

really warm and fuzzy feelings.”<br />

So instead of stowing away our problems and<br />

shutting ourselves off to the ones closest to us,<br />

we need to learn to push ourselves to open up<br />

and speak up. Release that oxytocin and you’ll be<br />

surprised by how much it can help.<br />

We all react differently to how we handle certain<br />

problems that we may face in our lives. Some<br />

people will cut themselves off from those around<br />

them, some of us will battle through and hide our<br />

worries behind a brave face, but one of the most<br />

common ways for us to deal with our problems<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

is by developing a bad habit that can give us a<br />

temporary high. Whether it’s smoking, alcohol,<br />

drugs, binging on unhealthy food or even shopping,<br />

these decisions can be influenced by our diet. This<br />

is called the dopamine neurotransmitter, and if we<br />

aren’t careful to maintain a healthy and balanced<br />

diet it can become one of our worst enemies.<br />

With this in mind, I was keen to ask Jess how we<br />

keep our neurotransmitters balanced and fully<br />

functioning?<br />

“Maintaining nutritional density, is something<br />

that I’m very passionate about educating. It’s<br />

about getting enough protein, fat and fibre into<br />

our bodies. So our eggs, meats, dairy products,<br />

nuts, seeds, beans, legumes and vegetables are<br />

all important for sourcing the protein, fats and<br />

fibre that is required to help create, maintain and<br />

balance our neurotransmitters.”<br />

Alarmingly, we have all seen how plastic seems to<br />

be overtaking our lives, along with the world we<br />

live in, filling our creeks, rivers and oceans with<br />

one of the most destructive materials the human<br />

race has created. So I was curious to hear Jess’s<br />

perspective on whether the effects of plastic are a<br />

contributing factor to mental illness?<br />

“BPA or simply, plastic, is something we call an<br />

endocrine-disrupting chemical, which is a chemical<br />

within our environment, that has a hormonal-like<br />

effect on our bodies. An example of how BPA finds<br />

its way into our bodies is through sea salt, which<br />

has been found to be highly contaminated with<br />

BPA. Now plastic is proven to not only have moodaltering<br />

effects on the human body, but it also<br />

makes us more susceptible to chronic diseases<br />

and drives inflammation within our gut, which again<br />

links back to how that has an effect on our brain.”<br />

While we were on the topic of our oceans and<br />

the potential health effects that contaminated<br />

substances can have on our physical and mental<br />

health, I asked Jess about Equinor’s intentions to<br />

drill for oil in the Great Australian Bight and the<br />

potential health risks it could have on the human<br />

population.<br />

“There is a lot of anxiety that is born from natural<br />

disasters taking place that increases a lot of<br />

psychological distress, which then leads to further<br />

mental health conditions. So if there was an oil spill<br />

it would mostly impact our food sources. The toxins<br />

from the oil would not only contaminate the food<br />

that we eat but change the whole process of where<br />

and how we source and produce our food. So we<br />

must look at it through a larger lens and understand<br />

the effect it would not only have on the Bight but<br />

the human population in general.”<br />

Although there may be a lot of stigma surrounding<br />

mental health, it is distress within the body. It’s<br />

about understanding that it is a biological and<br />

physiological process that our brain is telling<br />

our body and that there can be larger, broader<br />

elements that can contribute to our problems. Our<br />

environment can have an enormous impact on our<br />

physical and psychological health, and as surfers,<br />

we are involved with the environment more than<br />

most, which is why we must take responsibility<br />

in creating awareness and advocating for the<br />

protection of our beautiful planet.<br />

For the bigger, longer conversation listen at<br />

smorgasboarder.com.au/podcast<br />

itunes spotify buzzsprout<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

healthy<br />

food | mind | life<br />

Our diet is one of the most important components of our lives, it’s the core contributor to our<br />

physical and mental wellbeing, which is why it is so important that we make it as healthy as possible.<br />

For some people, maintaining a healthy diet can be overwhelming, leading us to make poor decisions. What<br />

we need to understand is that these poor decisions can have, and most likely will have, a profound effect<br />

on our mental health. Here are a few quick, simple and nutrient-filled dishes that will help put you on the<br />

pathway towards a healthier lifestyle.<br />

turmeric chicken and mixed nut stir fry<br />

Ingredients<br />

1 cup of sliced chicken<br />

1 tablespoon of fresh turmeric<br />

2 tablespoons of olive oil<br />

1 sliced onion<br />

4 cloves of garlic<br />

1/2 cup of raw, mixed nuts<br />

1 tablespoon of fresh thyme<br />

1 bunch of broccolini<br />

1 cup of kale leaves<br />

1 tablespoon of cooked quinoa<br />

salt and pepper<br />

Method<br />

Simply heat the pan with olive oil inside and sauté<br />

chicken halfway before removing. Now add the<br />

onion, garlic, turmeric and mixed nuts to the pan.<br />

Sauté until they begin to brown before adding the<br />

broccolini and half sautéed chicken. Finally, when<br />

the chicken is cooked, add the thyme and kale<br />

before seasoning with salt and pepper.<br />

For those looking for something with a bit more<br />

substance, the Turmeric Chicken and Mixed Nut<br />

Stir Fry is your answer. Chicken is a great source<br />

of lean protein and offers a balance of brainhealthy<br />

compounds. Like broccoli, kale contains<br />

glucosinolates and other key antioxidants, vitamins,<br />

and minerals to help combat the free radicals that<br />

enter our bodies.<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

thinkers’ salad<br />

cacao chocolates<br />

Ingredients<br />

fresh green leaves<br />

1/2 avocado<br />

1/2 tomato<br />

1 tablespoon of blueberries<br />

1/2 tablespoon of walnuts<br />

1/2 tablespoon of pepita seeds<br />

4 tablespoons of egg yolk dressing<br />

Dressing<br />

1 egg yolk<br />

2 tablespoons of white wine vinegar<br />

1 tablespoon of mustard<br />

4 tablespoons of almond oil<br />

1/4 teaspoon of cayenne or black pepper<br />

1/2 teaspoon of salt<br />

Method<br />

Mix the egg yolk, mustard, almond oil and vinegar<br />

together to create the dressing. Then simply pour<br />

over the plated ingredients and garnish with pepper<br />

and salt.<br />

Quick, easy and full of nutrients. The Thinker’s<br />

Salad is a great dish for those who don’t have<br />

much time on their hands and are looking for<br />

something light and refreshing. Berries are full of<br />

antioxidants and help improve communication<br />

between brain cells and also reduce inflammation<br />

throughout the body. Nuts and seeds are also rich<br />

sources of the antioxidant vitamin E, which protects<br />

cells from oxidative stress caused by free radicals.<br />

Ingredients<br />

1/3 cup of coconut oil<br />

3 tablespoons of cacao powder<br />

1/3 cup of maple syrup<br />

1 teaspoon of vanilla<br />

1/3 cup of dried fruit<br />

1/2 cup of melted cacao butter<br />

4 drops of peppermint oil<br />

Method<br />

Combine all of the ingredients into a blender<br />

and blend for one minute at full power. Pour<br />

the blended ingredients into a holding tray and<br />

refrigerate for 10 minutes.<br />

Who doesn’t love chocolate? Many people think<br />

that chocolate is a portion of unhealthy food,<br />

in some cases they are right, for example, milk<br />

chocolate and other chocolates containing added<br />

sugars and preservatives are not beneficial to our<br />

overall health. However dark chocolate contains<br />

cocoa, also known as cacao, and cacao contains<br />

flavonoids, a type of antioxidant. Antioxidants are<br />

especially important for brain health, as the brain<br />

is highly susceptible to oxidative stress, which<br />

contributes to age-related cognitive decline and<br />

brain diseases. When buying your chocolate,<br />

always look to purchase the chocolate containing<br />

the higher percentage of cacao.<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

gear<br />

clear winner<br />

words: dave swan<br />

He shapes all manner of custom surfboards, each with a performance orientation in mind.<br />

Steve Del Rosso of Clearwater Surfboards cut the power to his planer for just a little while<br />

recently to shed some light on the focus of his designs.<br />

Not too long ago, Steve opened a retail shop at<br />

46 Currumbin Creek Road. Part of the reason<br />

was to have some stock boards on display, the<br />

main one however was to enable him to dial<br />

into his designs even more. Steve picks up the<br />

conversation.<br />

“Separating the two gave me a better head space<br />

for shaping. I was finding the constant interuption<br />

with crew dropping by the shaping bay was<br />

throwing my rhythm. I can get into the flow of<br />

things better now, which is reflected in my shapes.<br />

“The shop enables people to come in and have<br />

a look and we still of course take custom orders<br />

there. I reckon 95% of my boards are still custom<br />

orders.”<br />

Looking around the factory I could see a variety of<br />

different surfboards and was keen to find out what<br />

Steve enjoyed shaping.<br />

photo: @matttmacphoto<br />


smorgasboarder<br />


smorgasboarder<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

“So many crew are riding different craft today. I am<br />

literally shaping everything from twin fins to singles<br />

and a lot of longboards, more than ever before. A<br />

lot of high performance shortboards as well.<br />

“I enjoy shaping all of it. I am particularly finding<br />

inspiration in the feedback from customers. That’s<br />

the biggest thing, that feedback and the feedback<br />

from our team riders as well.”<br />

Steve’s team of riders had always enjoyed a fair<br />

deal of success. Aside from the shapes under their<br />

feet, I asked what else played a part in their winning<br />

ways.<br />

“The teams tighter now. I cut back on the number<br />

of riders but funnily enough, we are getting better<br />

results. It’s more about their attitude. That’s where<br />

the results come from. If their attitude is great, they<br />

often get great results. I just want a team of good,<br />

positive, happy people. It keeps the vibe going<br />

around doesn’t it?”<br />

Clint Guest is still Clearwater’s main team rider.<br />

Presently on the WSL World Longboard Tour,<br />

he is placed 9th and has a number of Australian<br />

Longboard/ Logger titles under his belt. Clint has<br />

been pivotal for Steve in developing his range of<br />

longboards.<br />

“These days you’ve got logging to stylish<br />

longboarding to performance longboarding, it’s<br />

awesome. There is a whole heap of variety there.<br />

“Clint (Guest) is riding my performance log in<br />

comps. You still get the best of both world’s. You’ve<br />

still got the trim and glide, but you can still do the<br />

turns and have that looseness.”<br />

I questioned Steve as to how his log designs<br />

differed from say old school logs.<br />

“I have a model that is more old school with a<br />

piggish outline but find those boards are very<br />

restrictive. And you have to be a really good surfer<br />

to ride those boards. You also have to have perfect<br />

waves to ride them on. I respect those guys from<br />

the 60s who rode those boards. I have a big<br />

collection of old mals and to ride those boards,<br />

holy dolly it takes a lot of skill. I take my hat off to<br />

Midget and all the surfers from that era.<br />

“But I don’t want to copy those kinds of boards<br />

like a lot of crew do. I want to do it a bit more<br />

modern so the boards are more forgivable and surf<br />

suckier waves and turn a lot easier. Those boards<br />

may have turned easy but you needed the right<br />

technique to do so.”<br />

Steve’s designed his high-performance logs so<br />

folks can mix it up a bit.<br />

“You can surf beach breaks on mine. You can get<br />

around those sections and that stuff. They are not<br />

just made to surf point breaks. Clint’s won two<br />

Australian Logger titles on them so it’s sort of nice<br />

because I’m not known as a log shaper.”<br />

Looking around the bay I noted a midlength in<br />

progress and asked about the reason he had<br />

introduced flyers to the design.<br />

“Flyers loosen the boards up. They create more of<br />

a pivot point. It breaks up the rail line so the board<br />

turns a lot tighter. This one is 7 foot but the flyers<br />

make it feel 2 to 3 inches shorter. You still have<br />

the paddle power but can bury a rail and hook it<br />

around.<br />

“I’m always trying to keep them performing. That’s<br />

the key. I am still always thinking about making<br />

them turn easier and even if someone wants to do<br />

a re-entry on them. A lot of boards out there are<br />

restricting that sort of stuff. They are easy to surf<br />

but restrict you if you want to progress and do<br />

more on a wave.”<br />

Steve likes to introduce a chine rail into a number<br />

of his designs as well.<br />

“So many crew are riding different craft<br />

today. I am literally shaping everything<br />

from twin fins to singles and a lot of<br />

longboards, more than ever before. A lot<br />

of high performance shortboards as well.<br />

“I find chines really forgiving, really disperses the<br />

water better. It allows you to get off rail so you’re<br />

not catching – bury and release you know. Most<br />

of my logs feature a chine rail as well. I also do<br />

it on my mid-lengths and wide nose fishes. I feel<br />

anything wide needs a chine because all that area<br />

creates catch and I find the chine just alleviates it.”<br />

I noted Steve mentioned he was making a lot of<br />

twin-fin fishes and asked what he thought of quads<br />

(4 fin fishes).<br />

“Twins are faster, better and more manouverable.<br />

You know, you can go vertical on a twin whereas<br />

quads are very restrictive. But I will say one thing,<br />

if you’ve got a very wide tail board, quads are a<br />

necessary thing. You need the quads because you<br />

can’t bury the wide tails easy. They’re great for that<br />

mushy, gutless surf because it keeps you above<br />

the water going fast. When you go to do a turn, the<br />

quad on a wide tail allows you to bring the board<br />

around and not fight it as much as say a thruster.<br />

Quads in a wide tail board are a necessary evil.”<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

photo left: clint guest<br />

photo right: steve chairing clint after another aussie title<br />

“Anything though with a nice clean outline doesn’t<br />

really need it (a quad fin setup). You’re better off<br />

with a twin, single or thruster in my opinion.”<br />

There is no denying the twin fin craze has<br />

continued to gain momentum.<br />

“Should never have left the earth I reckon. I<br />

remember as a grommet some of my best small<br />

wave boards were a twin. They’re fast, free, they’re<br />

loose and you can go wherever you want. Then<br />

in the Kelly Slater era the boards went to high<br />

performance, they were just ridiculous. You were<br />

fighting boards back then.”<br />

Steve went on to explain he shapes the tails to his<br />

twin fins according to the waves they’re ridden on.<br />

“On weaker waves I will tend to leave the tails quite<br />

wide. However, I am finding the ones that are pulled<br />

in a bit allow you to bury, pivot and turn a lot easier.<br />

I am generally keeping my fishes wide in the nose,<br />

in terms of the outline from the centre forward so<br />

you still have the paddle power benefits. But by<br />

bringing in the tail a little tighter, with those twins<br />

you can really do turns like a thruster if you want to,<br />

again that performance aspect.”<br />

I enquired whether Steve had designed any fishes<br />

with the sidecut tails reminiscent of the Winterstick<br />

snowboard designs.<br />

“They’re awesome. I have only done a few. It is<br />

allowing the board to carve so it is giving you the<br />

best of both worlds. When you are on rail they just<br />

carve smoother but it does take out a little pivot<br />

as well. Personally, I would rather a flyer as it gives<br />

you the same benefit but enables the board to be<br />

more free.”<br />

The bottom contours of Steve’s fishes and high<br />

performance shortboards tend to be single to<br />

double (concave) or just single. The longboards<br />

vary but more often than not feature a nose<br />

concave and a single running into a double<br />

concave through to the tail.<br />

“It makes the rail to rail transition a lot easier. It<br />

plays a critical part in wider boards. That’s where<br />

the double always plays a part but with a single<br />

(concave) under the front foot so they have that get<br />

up and go.<br />

“I will have a little subtle bit of vee between the<br />

fins in the wider boards as well so it allows a bit of<br />

release when you are in the last bit of a turn.<br />

“I am getting the inspiration from the old boards<br />

but putting a modern performance spin on it so you<br />

can throw them around.”<br />

cwsurfboards.com<br />

If you have enjoyed my chat with Steve Del Rosso of<br />

Clearwater Surfboards, there is a heap more to it.<br />

Simply tune into our <strong>Smorgasboarder</strong> Podcast for the<br />

full interview.<br />

smorgasboarder.com.au/podcast<br />

itunes spotify buzzsprout<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

5’2”<br />

Custom shortboards,<br />

hybrid & fishes,<br />

mals & logs.<br />

Full repair service.<br />

6’<br />




Factory 3/6 Kerta Rd,<br />

Kincumber NSW 2251<br />

M: 0415 577 085<br />

7’4”<br />

Happy campers with 8’0” customs<br />


M: 0427 767 176<br />

E: markrab88@gmail.com<br />

Insta: mark_rabbidge_surf_design<br />



M: 0424 450 690<br />

E: phantomsurfboards@gmail.com<br />

W: chrisgarrettshapes.com.au<br />

Custom surfboards, contact Chris<br />

or see Board Culture at Mermaid<br />

Beach for stock boards<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

H Y D R O T H E O R Y<br />

5’8” x 20 ½” x 2 ½”<br />

Twin Fin<br />


2FT - 20FT<br />


M: 0437 020 400 E: hydrotheorysurf@gmail.com<br />


HARVEST &<br />



2/24 Christine Ave, Miami<br />

P: (07) 5576 5914<br />

E: hello@harvestsurfboards.com<br />



5’7” x 21 1 / 2” x 2 ¾”<br />

twin fin<br />



Units 7 & 8, 9 Chapman Road,<br />

Hackham, SA<br />

E: leightonclark01@yahoo.com.au<br />

M: 0422 443 789<br />


75 David Street,<br />

Caversham, Dunedin NZ<br />

P: +64 3 455 7414<br />

M: +64 27 518 8678<br />

E: grahamcarse@xtra.co.nz<br />



smorgasboarder<br />

7’2 x 21 x 2⅝ Duo<br />


E: nealpurchasedesigns@gmail.com<br />

Insta: @nealpurchasejnr<br />


The Daisy Cutter<br />

7’2 x 21.5 x 2⅝<br />

Incorporating elements of design<br />

from the period which followed<br />

the 67 Vee Bottom Period,<br />

The Daisy Cutter is built for that<br />

down the line speed, tight trim<br />

and loose in the pocket surfing.<br />

It’s a modern twist and far<br />

more manageable take on the<br />

displacement hull making it a<br />

great board in a large variety of<br />

waves and conditions. Minimal<br />

rocker, flat entry in the nose,<br />

subtle single through the middle<br />

into a panel Vee out the tail.<br />

A beaked nose flowing into a<br />

mid rail maintains foam where<br />

you need it and shaves it where<br />

you don’t. The Daisy Cutter<br />

will have you still enjoying the<br />

smaller stuff or styling top to<br />

bottom in the big stuff.<br />

Available for order in 6’6 to 8’0<br />

but at its best from 7’2 to 7’11<br />


M: 0420 351 286<br />

E: oceanstreetcreative89@gmail.com<br />

Insta: Ocean Street Shapes<br />


1/1-7 Canterbury Rd, Braeside, VIC<br />

P: 03 9587 3553<br />

E: rory@okesurfboards.com<br />



“There is stuff I am testing<br />

and experimenting with and<br />

testing all the time to try and<br />

make a better surfboard”<br />

photo: freeway films<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

diversity<br />

words: dave swan<br />

the state of being comprised of many<br />

differing elements: variety especially;<br />

unlikeness; assortment, mixture; array;<br />

a point of difference<br />

Way back in 2011, we interviewed a guy by the name<br />

of Dave Verrall, the man behind Diverse Surf. His point<br />

of difference was indeed the very name of his brand<br />

which was emblazoned across all that he created.<br />

Not only were Dave’s boards different in their<br />

appearance, everything about them was different<br />

from how they were constructed and many of the<br />

materials that were used right through to the “oneoff”<br />

decals or resin artwork that adorned each one.<br />

There were so many diverse outlines and so much<br />

variety in the types of surfboards Dave crafted<br />

from mini-Simmons style boards to eggs, logs,<br />

performance shortboards, hulls, finless creations,<br />

chambered wood boards, longboards, guns…<br />

When I recently caught up with Dave, I was keen<br />

to hear how he was changing things up nowadays<br />

given so much of the surfing world had moved in<br />

his direction. As they say, ‘variety is the spice of<br />

life’ and it seems surfers have well and truly caught<br />

on to this notion, hopefully thanks in some small<br />

part to the very magazine you are reading right<br />

now. Like Dave and his beloved Diverse Surf, the<br />

very name of our magazine celebrates riding all<br />

kinds of surf craft.<br />

Surfers thankfully appear to have come full circle.<br />

From the early experimental days of surfing all<br />

kinds of shapes through to the 90s’ light white<br />

performance era we are back to open mindedness<br />

once again. Dave takes up the story.<br />

Single fin with sunset finish<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

“Wow, that was 9 years ago! That was prime time<br />

for me. We were doing lots of boards then and<br />

Diverse meant diverse. When you came into my<br />

shop it was, wow, there is so much different stuff<br />

here. I have never seen many different things and<br />

different colours. And it is safe to say that if you<br />

walked into any surf shop now, they would all be<br />

diverse. Everyone in every shop has a couple of<br />

different models of twin fins, and they may not have<br />

a longboard but they will have some mid-lengths<br />

and a single.<br />

“It served me well to do everything like that<br />

because it gave me an insight into each style of<br />

board but now I feel my name Diverse is a little<br />

filtered down. It doesn’t have the point of difference<br />

that it had back then.”<br />

It lead me to ask Dave where that left him now and<br />

what had become his focus.<br />

“I absolutely hate the material waste and the toxic<br />

nature of what we do. I’m still looking everyday for<br />

alternatives to change that, you know, using basalts<br />

(glassing cloth) and hemps and flax and bio resins<br />

and all kinds of stuff. I’m trying stuff all the time.<br />

“I’m presently trying a bio resin at the moment that is<br />

formulated in Australia but they make it in Indonesia.<br />

It’s made from the waste products of bio diesel.<br />

77% bio, it’s amazing. It’s unreal but it’s not ready<br />

for boards yet, it’s still goes a bit yellow. It’s still not<br />

quite right, but it’s great to use. Those guys have<br />

gone on to develop a bio MDF (medium-density<br />

fibreboard) using the crushings from palm oil.<br />

“There is stuff I am testing and experimenting with<br />

all the time to try and make a better surfboard.<br />

But tried and true, the best, strongest, most ecofriendly<br />

board is a really good quality blank glassed<br />

in 6-ounce glass and finish coated.”<br />

At this point I had to ask Dave about one of my<br />

favourite boards of his we tested back in 2011 -<br />

the Dynocore - which I considered at the time (and<br />

still do) to be revolutionary.<br />

“Within reason it still is. It wasn’t mainstream and<br />

economically it probably didn’t serve me well<br />

because people’s boards lasted for 5, 6, 7 years<br />

and the only reason they ordered a new one was<br />

because they had become too fat for the one they<br />

had bought way back when.<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

photo: freeway films<br />

“So, it was great. It was amazing technology and it<br />

is so much tougher, stronger, lighter than any board<br />

on a rack in a shop… and I still make customs for<br />

people but it was outside the box for many of the<br />

mainstream people who you make your money<br />

from.”<br />

I noted Dave’s reference to customs and stated<br />

my belief that more and more surfers were moving<br />

towards customs, realising the benefits of riding<br />

something crafted to specifically suit your own<br />

individual surfing style.<br />

“Yeah, I have two parts to my business. I supply<br />

shapes and designs to Sideways. They are a basic<br />

stock range of boards that work really well. And<br />

that gives everyone a chance to try one of my<br />

shapes or jump on something they haven’t had<br />

before and the quality is as good as most of the<br />

stuff made on the Gold Coast. It’s better than most<br />

of the mainstream brands made here. However,<br />

they are not custom and that doesn’t suit everyone.<br />

As a surfer gets better and/ or more discerning they<br />

want something that is specified to them, whether it<br />

be the shape or even the colour.”<br />

“I have a bunch of new<br />

techniques in resin<br />

artwork that I have never<br />

seen anyone else do.”<br />

Dave has found the two income streams beneficial.<br />

“I have two income sources: one through the<br />

royalties from Sideways, which allows everyone to<br />

jump on a board and try one out and go ‘wow, this<br />

goes good. I want one,’ but also, ‘I want it a little<br />

thicker and a pink one, or a painting on the deck.<br />

“The customs give me variety. This week I am<br />

doing a gun longboard for a gun fisherman that’s 22<br />

(inches) wide that he wants for really big surf. I am<br />

doing a pink twin fin for a 13-year old girl.”<br />

Gesturing towards his shaping racks, Dave goes on<br />

to explain what else is on the go.<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

dave back in 2011 - smorgasboarder shoot<br />

photo: freeway films<br />

“This board is supposed to look like an old pair of<br />

jeans. And I have a 9-foot longboard with lava-like<br />

resin work.<br />

“I have a bunch of new techniques in resin artwork<br />

that I have never seen anyone else do. Stuff<br />

that I play with to make things really unique and<br />

individual. And here’s an eco board made with<br />

unidirectional flax and eco resin.”<br />

There’s no doubt Dave is still doing his own thing<br />

and loving it. He has just come to look at the<br />

industry from a different perspective.<br />

“The surfboard industry is just a mass-produced<br />

selling machine. The shapers are like politicians<br />

in that they all have a really good goal at the start<br />

of making really nice boards and doing something<br />

really good, doing eco stuff for the environment<br />

or doing however they want to do it, but as they<br />

get deeper into the industry and get controlled by<br />

fashion and the need to make a living they become<br />

part of the machine. The need to derive an income<br />

each week changes you. It is just like politics and<br />

whether you are part of the PU Party or the Epoxy<br />

Party or whoever, they become so engrossed in<br />

trying to get by and keep up with the Joneses that<br />

they lose the initial reason why they came into the<br />

industry.<br />

“Originally I made boards because I wasn’t happy<br />

with the ones I had and I made a couple for myself.<br />

My friends liked what I was doing and I made a<br />

couple for them. And I liked watching my friends<br />

surfing my products, watching them get better and<br />

receiving feedback. And I have now gone back<br />

to that. I am enjoying make customs. I am ringing<br />

people up a month later from when they picked up<br />

their board and I want their feedback. And if they<br />

want a board to look like a sunset sky, I’ll spend<br />

however many weeks it takes to try and get that to<br />

happen.”<br />

more info: diversesurf.com.au<br />

For the bigger, longer conversation listen at<br />

smorgasboarder.com.au/podcast<br />

itunes spotify buzzsprout<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

art for planet earth<br />

words: tami argaman<br />

Do you buy local? Use fair trade coffee beans? Order your drink without a straw?<br />

People tend to find it hard changing their habits<br />

when they can’t see an immediate positive<br />

outcome or point.<br />

Smokers only consider quitting when they struggle<br />

to breathe, fast food lovers only start eating healthy<br />

when they put on weight or have a heart attack.<br />

We look after our bodies because they are home to<br />

our precious minds. We keep our houses and cars<br />

clean because we live and get around in them.<br />

Now here’s some news: Earth doesn’t want to<br />

become sick either and fish literally can’t stand it<br />

when their home is dirty.<br />

Steffen Kraft aka iconeo has made it his mission to<br />

visualise the outcome of what humans are doing to<br />

the environment.<br />

The German graphic designer creates illustrations<br />

that not only give us a better idea of what is<br />

happening out there but also help us realise that we<br />

in fact are responsible for sorting it out.<br />

After years of running a successful marketing<br />

agency with some huge clients, Steffen realised<br />

he only really enjoyed working with brands whose<br />

philosophies and values he personally agreed with.<br />

To everyone’s surprise he decided to quit and start<br />

to “do great design for meaningful projects”.<br />

“With the opportunities I have, I want to make the<br />

world a better place”, he says.<br />

It worked, Steffen now designs as Iconeo and<br />

collaborates with brands like adidas as part of<br />

their #runfortheoceans campaign, the Whale and<br />

Dolphin Conservation (WDC) as well as Fridays<br />

for Future, Greta Thunbergs international climate<br />

movement against global warming.<br />

What do you do to make this world a better place?<br />

Have a browse through Steffens Instagram to<br />

become more aware and inspired. Share his<br />

designs with your friends and family and discuss<br />

ways how to do your part in saving the world.<br />

iconeo<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

support the grassroots<br />

surf directory<br />

music<br />

trey cooper<br />

He’s been on the scene for a little while<br />

now as a soloist but recently returned with<br />

a newly formed band to play their first<br />

gig at Solbar on Queensland’s Sunshine<br />

Coast. And what a sound! The maturity<br />

of his performance makes it hard to<br />

believe this singer/ songwriter/ guitarist is<br />

only 20 years old. An incredible multioctaved<br />

vocalist, Trey’s drawl is at times<br />

somewhat reminiscent of John Butler and<br />

equally as captivating.<br />

As for the band, they add an incredible<br />

depth of complexity to the music. After<br />

all, who doesn’t love a 5-piece rock<br />

band with 3 guitarists, bass and a kickarse<br />

female drummer that’s as equally<br />

mesmerising as the star himself. We have<br />

no doubt we will be hearing the name Trey<br />

Cooper a great deal more into the future.<br />

Stay tuned.<br />

treycoopermusic.com<br />

treycooper_music<br />

treycoopermusic<br />

spotify trey cooper<br />

your original surf shop - packed full of the best gear<br />

Celebrating great customer service along with the latest surf gear<br />

and fashion for 44 years and going strong.<br />

T7, 119 Princes Highway, Woolworths Centre, Ulladulla<br />

P: ​(02) 4454 4904<br />

Instagram: @southernmansurf<br />

southernman.com.au<br />

tried and trusted blanks<br />

Family owned and run for the past 56 years, our consistency is the<br />

best in the world. Our blanks come in a multitude of different lengths,<br />

rockers and weights. We also have an extensive variety of timber<br />

stringers of varying widths. And we have all the shaping tools you<br />

need to make a board from scratch!<br />

5 Stewart Road, Currumbin Qld<br />

P: 07 5534 3777 burfordblanksaustralia.com.au<br />

for<br />

more<br />

enquiries<br />

new zealand<br />

jiff morris<br />

jeff@smorgasboarder.co.nz<br />

0220 943 913<br />

australia<br />

tami argaman<br />

tami@smorgasboarder.com.au<br />

0466 439 330<br />

smorgasboarder.com.au<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

the heart of the surf community<br />

coolest spot in town<br />

A front row seat to beautiful Lyall Bay, Wellington’s top surf spot and<br />

the best brunch around!<br />

Located at Lyall Bay in Wellington. Opened 7am – 5pm<br />

maranuicafe.co.nz<br />

the board shop<br />

New Zealand’s Surf Specialists – The Board Shop has been at<br />

the cutting edge of hi-tech epoxy surfboard, longboard and SUP<br />

technology for over 20 years. Drop in or check them out online.<br />

49 Barrys Point Rd, Takapuna, Auckland<br />

P: +64 9 486 0930 | theboardshop.co.nz<br />

blanks<br />

cloth<br />

resin<br />

shaping tools<br />

shop online . nz wide delivery<br />

raglan surf emporium<br />

Clothing, wetsuits, surfboards, surfboard and wetsuit rentals.<br />

Open 7 days 9am – 5pm<br />

3 Wainui Rd, Raglan<br />

P: +64 7 282 0018 E: info@raglansurfemporium.com<br />

raglansurfemporium.com<br />

sadhana surfboards<br />

Everything for the board shaper from backyarder to pro. Full range<br />

of PU and EPS blanks. Polyester and water clear epoxy laminating<br />

resins. Shaping, sanding and glassing tools. Custom boards, repairs,<br />

short and long term hires. Shop online with freighting NZ wide.<br />

3 Garlands Road, Woolston, Christchurch 8023<br />

P: +64 (3) 389 5611 | sadhanasurfboards.com<br />

surfing accessories<br />

We have Australia’s hottest new surfing accessories to keep you<br />

in the surf longer. Our innovative products can help you enjoy the<br />

surf and outdoors even more and provide you with protection and<br />

comfort as you follow your passion! Stockists of H2Odyssey webbed<br />

gloves and X-STING-WISH®IT. Organic sting relief.<br />

seeyououtthere.com.au<br />

for your culinary delights<br />

The Rivermouth General Store. Great coffee + speciality teas,<br />

gourmet food, fresh juices, smoothies, art, awesome vibe, surfing<br />

stories + the floor is worth reading.<br />

101 Sunpatch Parade, Tomakin Nsw<br />

Instagram: @therivermouth<br />

Facebook: The Rivermouth General Store<br />


smorgasboarder<br />

support the grassroots<br />

surfboards designed and shaped<br />

by mike jolly<br />

Full repair service. Rentals, surfing gear<br />

and good advice.<br />

122 Seaview Road, Piha Beach NZ<br />

P: +64 9 812 8723<br />

pihasurf@xtra.co.nz<br />

PIHA<br />

DOMAIN<br />


piha domain motor camp<br />

Camp on the beach in front of the iconic<br />

Lion Rock, at one of NZ’s top surf breaks.<br />

Rates from $18 a night for tent sites.<br />

E: pihacamp@xtra.co.nz<br />

P: +64 9 812 8815<br />

standup paddle boarding nz<br />

South Island’s complete SUP centre.<br />

Lessons, hire, demo, training, sales.<br />

Unit 2, 1030 Ferry Road,<br />

Christchurch NZ<br />

P: +64 3 384 5086<br />

groundswell.co.nz<br />

up surf coaching trips<br />

Travel with like-minded surfers at your<br />

level, surf fun waves with video analysis<br />

of your sessions, improve your skills.<br />

Designed for intermediate/average surfers.<br />

Locations in NZ, Indo and more to come.<br />

upsurfcoaching.co.nz<br />

sup centre<br />

Life’s better standing up. A one stop<br />

shop for everything SUP with the best<br />

brands, range, prices and expertise. With<br />

access to all the major SUP brands in NZ,<br />

through a nationwide delivery service.<br />

20 Melrose Street, Newmarket, NZ<br />

P: +64 9 520 3366<br />

supcentre.co.nz<br />

we are a core surf shop.<br />

Just up from Fitzroy Beach.<br />

Locally owned and operated.<br />

Surfboards and wetsuits.<br />

New and used. Repair and hire gear.<br />

Located at 39 Beach St, Fitzroy/New<br />

Plymouth, NZ<br />

Ph: (06) 7580 400<br />

Holloway Gallery<br />

“Anatomy of a Wave” by artist Col<br />

Chandler, Holloway Gallery is at Moffat<br />

Beach, QLD. We specialise in unique art<br />

to fill your home.<br />

Come in store or see us online.<br />

1 Roderick Street, Moffat Beach QLD<br />

p: 07 5491 5557<br />

hollowaygallery.com.au<br />

brunswick surf shop<br />

Chock full of awesome threads, sunnies,<br />

surf and skate accessories, Therapy,<br />

Matt Hurworth and RA Hand Shaped<br />

Surfboards to have the locals frothing.<br />

1/12 The Terrace, Brunswick Heads NSW<br />

P: 02 6685 1283<br />

brunswicksurf.com.au<br />

preece’s surf shop<br />

Plenty of new and used surfboards,<br />

bodyboards, wetsuits, clothing and<br />

accessories. The only surf shop right on<br />

the coast. Open 7 days.<br />

159 Esplanade, Port Noarlunga Sth, SA<br />

P: 08 8386 0404<br />

preece-sthport-surf.com.au<br />


Surf Shop<br />



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