London Jewellery Retail - Analysis
The growing Network Of Asian Jewellers In London - Indians compromise of about 1.4 million people in the UK making them the single largest visible ethnic minority population in the country. London has 150 jewellers of Asian origin that cater to the needs of Asian population, get to read the full article about the asian diaspora within the jewellery community.

FOunDER: Late Vidya Vinod Kala

Alok Kala

Editor and Publisher

Arpit Kala

Associate Publisher


Vol. 46 # 6 • september-october 2019

Vijetha Rangabashyam

Senior Editor

Gunjan Jain

Business & Marketing

Sanjana Parikh

Features Writer

Dhananjay Kokate

Graphic Designer



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Cover Story - Asian Jewellers in the UK


Cover courtesy: The

Forever Emeralds necklace

from Bulgari Cinemagia

High Jewellery Collection

London JeweLLery retaiL - anaLysis

The GrowinG


of AsiAn

Jewellers in


Indians comprise of about 1.4 million people in the United Kingdom making

them the single largest visible ethnic minority population in the country.

British Pakistanis are number two with a population of 1.17 million. With a

population of half a million, Bangladeshis are also not too far behind. There

are close to 700 jewellers in the UK and London alone has 150 jewellers of

Asian origin that cater to the needs of the Asian population. Asians the world

over are known for their entrepreneurial skills and business acumen and Anil

Prabhakar during his recent visit to the UK analysed the Asian diaspora within

the jewellery community



traDe Fair


4th Edition of COUTURE India

dazzles in New Delhi


Design stuDio

Alessio Boschi

Stroke of Genius



traDe Fair

September Gem &

Jewellery Fair – Hong


Quality Buyers at

HK September Fair


traDe Fair

Vicenzaoro September




special Feature

Technology Talk

Why Diamond Testing

Machines are a Priority?


nation notes


A Spanish Sojourn


the rock talk

pantone a/W 2019

The Beckoning of Seasons


traDe Fair

IIJS 2019

Diamonds Faired Decently

Well at IIJS 2019





Fair and Square

We are right in the middle of the show season as trade fairs

both domestic and international crowd the entire gems and

jewellery industry this time of year. From IIJS to Hong Kong

September show, Vicenzaoro to COUTURE India, the gems

and jewellery industry is truly global. A unique melting pot

of nationalities and cultures the industry comes together during trade fairs to

build their networks and smoothly conduct transactions.

The issue’s cover story focuses on the impact Indians have created in United

Kingdom with a key focus on the jewellery market in London. It explores the

market size and consumer purchasing patterns of the Indians living in the UK. The

annual Vicenzaoro trade fair in Italy saw some of the most famed manufacturing

houses across the globe display their skills and expert craftsmanship when it

comes to jewellery manufacturing. We take you up close and personal to this

coveted show and bring you interesting anecdotes from famous designer Alessio


Diamond Testing is the need of the hour as the market has been flooded with

growing numbers of lab grown diamonds. The issue conducts an in depth study

into the various diamond testing machines available in the current market. Treat

your eyes to some of the most stunning jewellery creations from IIJS Show and a

comprehensive report on the luxury business boutique show COUTURE India.

Have a good read & Happy Diwali!


Alok Kala

DiamonD WorlD september-october 2019 29

Round & About

Rough & Mining

Matryoshka diamond found in Yakutia

An unusual diamond with another

diamond moving freely inside

was mined in Yakutia at the Nyurba

mining and processing division of

ALROSA. Due to its peculiarity, the

stone resembles a traditional Russian

Matryoshka doll. According to the

experts who have studied the find,

this is the first such diamond in the

history of global diamond mining and

could be over 800 million years old.

Despite its complex structure, it

weighs only 0.62 carats (0.12 grams)

and dimensions of 4.8 x 4.9 x 2.8 mm.

The internal cavity has an estimated

weight of 0.02 carats (0.004 grams)

and dimensions of 1.9×2.1×0.6 mm.

"The most interesting thing

for us was to find out how the air

space between the inner and outer

diamonds was formed. Due to the

presence of the dissolved zone,

one diamond began to move freely

inside another on the principle of

matryoshka nesting doll," said Oleg

Kovalchuk, Deputy Director for

innovations at ALROSA's Research

and Development Geological


Petra finds Big Blue Diamond at Flagship Mine

Petra Diamonds has found a 20.08 carat blue stone at its flagship mine

in South Africa, offering some relief to a miner struggling with weak

demand and a mountain of debt. The company said it found the gem quality

Type IIb diamond at its Cullinan mine. It gave no forecast on the price,

blue gem quality stones are among the most valuable in the world.

Petra’s share price collapsed to a record low amid falling diamond prices

and concerns that it will struggle to repay debts. It wrote down the value

of its mines by almost $250 million and said co-founder and Chairman

Adonis Pouroulis will depart, after its long-serving chief executive officer

left earlier this year. “With Petra’s balance sheet under focus, the recovery

and sale of special diamonds incremental to cash flow forecasts represents

a positive for the stock,” said BMO analysts Edward Sterck.

30 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

Round & About

Rough & Mining

ALROSA remains industry leader in social investments

ALROSA confirmed its status as a

leader among gold and diamond

mining companies in terms of investments

in social programs, according to a study

conducted by the PwC Advisory. Every

year ALROSA allocates 3% of its revenue

to social expenses and remains the

absolute industry leader by this indicator.

In 2018, the company allocated almost

$168 million for social investments,

including regional development

programs, corporate social programs for

employees and their families, as well as

about 500 social and charitable projects.

The study covers the period from

2016 to 2018 and focuses on key aspects

of sustainable development, including

investments in social programs and

environmental protection measures,

energy and water consumption,

greenhouse gas emissions, and the

number of female employees.

"ALROSA is a company of

regional significance in Yakutia, with

about 50,000 people living in our

monotowns today. Therefore, social

responsibility is our top priority and

we continue to be one of the leaders

in this area. We also contribute to the

social and economic development of

the Arkhangelsk region, where our

subsidiary Severalmaz operates." said

Sergey Ivanov, CEO of ALROSA.

32 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

Round & About


Hari Krishna Exports Pvt. Ltd. hosted a ‘Swachh

Bharat Awareness Cycle Ride’ on Gandhi Jayanti

Hari Krishna Exports Pvt. Ltd. organised an

intensive fitness event ‘Swachh Bharat Awareness

Cycle Ride’to mark the occasion of Gandhi Jayanti. The

ride incepted from Haji Ali, Ghatkopar & Goregaon

till BKC in Mumbai. 450 riders participated in this

event which included office employees accompanying

with friends and families. The major objective to host

this Cycle ride was to spread awareness and support

the noble cause of ‘Swachh Bharat Abhiyan’ and also

aiming to prohibit the usage of plastic.

Ghanshyam Dholakia, Founder and Managing

Director, Hari Krishna Exports Pvt. Ltd.said, ‘I believe

that a healthy mind and body is crucial for our lives and

to do so we organise and run various fitness activities

for our employees as well as friends and families. I was

pleased to see that everyone actively participated in

this cycle ride and made it a successful event.’’

Hini Star Launches the OPTICA Series

Hini Star launched its new opticalpatterned

diamond collection,

The OPTICA Series, with the release

of STELO, ROZO and FLORO, three

patented innovative diamond cuts

featuring symmetrical patterns that

create unprecedented brilliance and

light performance.

The Optica Stelo features 91 facets

aligning to form a perfect star that radiates with brilliance

and luminosity. The Optica Rozo’s optically-precise

56 facets are a fiery and passionate reinterpretation of

romance. The Optica Floro feature 77 facets that reveal

intricate reflections that quietly

break the rules – illuminating the

individuality of its owner.

Speaking on the opening day of

the Hong Kong Jewellery and Gem

Fair, where Hini Star traditionally

exhibits, Smit Virani, of Hini Star

remarked: “The OPTICA Series

is designed to meet the demands

and characteristics of today’s consumers and how they

experience a diamond. For retailers this means an

opportunity to enhance customer engagement and buying

experience to boost sales.”

34 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

Round & About


Divine Solitaires launches at SS

Jewellers, marks a new partnership

In its first association with SS

Jewellers, Divine Solitaires completed

a successful launch at the store of the

Gurgaon-based jeweller on September

26, 2019. Jignesh Mehta, Founder &

MD, Divine Solitaires and Anuj Jain,

Partner, SS Jewellers were present at

the venue to mark the beginning of this


Jignesh Mehta, Founder & MD,

Divine Solitaires said, “We’re glad to

start this association with a well-known

brand like SS Jewellers because they

too stand by the values of our brand.

Gurgaon is a great market and has a lot

of potential because of its cosmopolitan

outlook. Their preferences in jewellery

are inclined towards contemporary

trends of fine solitaire jewellery. We are

The Fancy Color Diamond Index

(FCDI) indicates a decrease

of 0.1% in overall prices of Fancy

Color Diamonds in Q2 2019.

Pink diamonds continued to rise,

while prices of Blues and Yellows

declined. Comparing this quarter to

the corresponding quarter in 2018,

Pink diamonds showed an upturn

of 0.4% in Q2 2019, compared to a

0.5% decrease in Q2 2018. Yellow

diamonds displayed a decline of

LtoR- Gaurav, Garima, Shefali, Anuj, Jinesh Mehta,

Sudhir at Divine Solitaires launch at SS Jewellers

very sure that this potent association will

be a success.”

Anuj Jain, Partner, SS Jewellers said,

“We are living in a day and age where

diamonds are a statement, one of status,

the feel-good factor and with asset value.

By having Divine Solitaires in our store,

we not only stand tall as a retailer of repute

but also one that helps the middle-class

consumer gain faith and confidence in a

product that has largely been ambiguous

in terms of its buyback.”

Pink Diamonds Outperformed Blues and

Yellows in Q2 2019

0.8% vis-a-vis the 0.2% increase

in Q2 2018. Blue diamonds showed

a 0.3% decrease in Q2 2019

compared to a 1.5% increase in the

same quarter in 2018.

GIA grades

ALROSA's 14.83 ct

pink diamond The

Spirit of The Rose as

Fancy Vivid Purple-


Nijinsky” is a rare 27.85 carat

clear pink rough diamond, from

which The Spirit of the Rose diamond

was cut. It was the largest pink crystal

ever mined in Russia. The “Nijinsky”

rough diamond was unearthed in July,

2017 from the Ebelyakh deposit in

the Republic

of Sakha

(Yakutia) in




m a k i n g


With its

impeccable characteristics, free from

defects and flaws, and exceptionally

rich pink colour, the crystal was rated

as the best discovery of the year by “The

National Jeweler”. The preparation

and cutting process, which took a full

year, was performed at the “Diamonds

of ALROSA” cutting factory in

Moscow. The stone’s size, colour and

clarity required special attention from

cutters and polishers. It is named “The

Spirit of the Rose” under the name of a

legendary ballet.

36 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

Round & About


Leveraging its Growing Digital Presence, JB And Brothers

has Introduced Three New Services, Coming Soon

Forever pushing the envelope when it

comes to servicing their clients, JB

And Brothers has launched three new

features to their repertoire of services.

With an aim to simplify the diamond

purchasing process, the polished

diamond giant has introduced these

services so that clients all over the world

can view, select and purchase the goods

of their choice with enhanced ease.

Diamond tracing and origin has

gained momentum in recent times and JB

And Brothers leaves no stone unturned

in allowing its clients to retrace their

diamond’s journey from mine to polish.

Known as Dream Diamond, this service

helps you know the value of your diamond

starting from the process of mining to

rough stage then from rough stage to rough

planning and then to polished diamond.

After that the diamond gets certified and

then, it fits into the jewellery. Clients can

rest assured that any piece of diamond

purchased is 100% authentic.

The second service launched is

3D diamond View which provides the

viewer the satisfaction of physically

3D - DIAmoND VIew

viewing the stone by showing you all

possible inclusions for example knot,

crystal, feather, needle or pinpoint etc. So

even without referring to the diamond’s

certificate, the client will be able know

exactly where the inclusions are and what

type of inclusions does it have, which

makes buying diamonds online easy,

enjoyable and realistic.

Finally, the company announced

the introduction of Live Chatbot, a

revolutionary AI Assistant to solve all

queries at any place and anytime. What’s

more is that you will get instant answers

to all of your queries. You can also buy

stones directly by simply sending a text

using the chatbot service. This alternative

method of communication guarantees

24/7 service to all clients.

38 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

Round & About

Asso. & TrAde Bodies

VIP delegation from Angola at WFDB-IDMA

Presidents Meeting Opening Session

The World Federation of Diamond

Bourses (WFDB) Presidents

Meeting kicked off in Dubai with

special sessions on lab-grown

diamonds and provenance and

traceability. An important delegation

from Sodiam including Chairman Dr.

Eugenio Bravo da Rosa took part in

the ribbon cutting to officially open

the Presidents Meeting.

Angola has extensive diamond

reserves estimated at 180 million

carats. In 2018, Angola’s total rough

diamond production was 8.4 million

carats with a value of $1.2 billion. As

part of its strategic plans, Angola has

the intention to establish a Diamond

Bourse in Luanda. Ernie Blom said:

(L-R) Ronnie Van der Linden, President of IDMA, Ahmed Bin Sulayem, Executive Chairman of the

DMCC, Ernie Blom, President of the WFDB, Dr. Eugenio Bravo da Rosa, Chairman of Sodiam,

Gaetano Cavalieri, President of CIBJO

“We are happy to welcome this

important delegation from Angola,

a key player for future diamond

mining potential and we welcome

the important changes which have

been taking place in the country.

Obviously WFDB stands ready to

welcome a new diamond bourse

and we are happy that this is being


GJEPC applauds announcements made

by FM to Boost Exports

Gem & Jewellery Export

Promotion Council (GJEPC)

has been representing G & J Sector

Policy concerns and issues to the

Government with an objective

to give impetus to exports from

the country. In a recently held

Board of Trade meeting on 12th

September, GJEPC Chairman

Pramod Agrawal had urged several

key policy recommendations to

the Government. In a major relief

to the gem and Jewellery industry,

Finance Minister Smt. Nirmala

Sitharaman, announced measures

to boost exports from the country.

Pramod Kumar Agrawal,

Chairman, GJEPC said, “With

great pleasure I would like to thank

and acknowledge the positive

announcements made by the Hon’ble

Finance Minister today. I am glad

that the Govt. has understood the

concerns of the Gem & Jewellery

Sector and have come up with

various measures to boost exports

and facilitate trade.”

40 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

Round & About

Asso. & TrAde Bodies

DCWC organizes a Social Soiree with

other leading organizations

Diamond Club West Coast

organized a social event at Kues

in Downtown, Los Angeles on August

21 in collaboration with GIA Alumni,

IDCA (Indian Diamond & Colorstone

Association), 24 Karat Club of

Southern California, and WJA (Women

Jewelers Association) to bring together

leading organizations and its members

for a delightful evening of networking

and socializing.

Close to 150 industry members and

guests gathered for a night filled with

food, fun, and drinks. Each head of their

respecting organizations gave a brief

introduction, welcomed their members

and shared about their upcoming

events. Moshe Salem, President of the

GJEPC hosts India US Gems and Jewellery Buyer

Seller Meet in Mumbai

The India - USA Gems and

Jewellery Buyer Seller Meet,

organized by GJEPC at Renaissance

Mumbai Convention Centre Hotel

commenced from 10th September

to 12th September. The event was

inaugurated by GJEPC Vice Chairman

Colin Shah, Executive Director

Sabyasachi Ray, US coordinators

Holly Granofsky and Nancy Robey

and Australian coordinator Jeremy


DCWC, expressed his enthusiasm and

appreciation for the large turnout. He

welcomed all the organizations to join

us at the upcoming Gala on April 2020.

The meet saw

prominent US Jewellery

Retailers, wholesalers

and distributors, target

retailers as board

representatives of merchandising/

buying group and best practice

group comprising independent

retail jewellers, as well as VP

merchandising and buyers from large

and small regional chains.

The ceremony began with the

The theme of the Gala is “celebrating

everything precious in our lives: gems

and women.”

auspicious lamp lighting

followed by a welcome

address by Colin Shah.

He revealed that the

Indian gems and jewellery

industry exports $10 billion worth of

goods to US market each year. “We

would like to increase and improve

our export numbers to the US and so

we urge buyers as well as exhibitors

to give their valuable feedback on

how this can be done.”

42 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

Round & About

Asso. & TrAde Bodies

GIA India Shares ‘Diamonds – Are They Forever’

with Consumers of Cygnus Jewellery in Surat

GIA India organised a seminar on

“Diamonds – Are They Forever?”

to help customers of Cygnus Jewellery

in Surat, Gujarat, gain knowledge and

confidence. More than 60 diamond

connoisseurs and buyers of diamond

jewellery attended the seminar on

September 19. The seminar helped

potential consumers understand the

importance of independent diamond

grading reports and a jeweller’s

responsibility to sell with disclosure.

“Building consumer confidence is

very important for GIA and the gem

and jewellery industry. GIA India has

been working with jewellers to organise

consumer seminars and to conduct

complimentary training for their sales

GIA Instructor Vijay Parmar presenting the seminar on ‘Diamonds – Are They Forever’ to customers of

Cygnus Jewellery in Surat

staff to help them explain diamond

quality effectively. Jewellers see merit

in such initiatives and I’m thankful to

Cygnus Jewellery for giving GIA India

the opportunity to share knowledge

with its consumers.” said Nirupa

Bhatt, Managing Director of GIA India

and Middle East.

Exceptional and inspiring leaders honoured at JNA Awards 2019

The eighth annual JNA Awards

ended on a high note and was

well attended by industry dignitaries

and trade leaders in Hong Kong

on 17 September. A total of 45

Honourees were feted for their

notable accomplishments in the past

year. Among them, 16 were honoured

as Recipients across 11 award

categories by a highly-respected and

experienced panel of judges.

Several Indian companies were

recognized for their contribution

to the gems and jewellery industry.

Kapu Gems, India was awarded the

eSupplier of the Year. In the category

of Industry Innovation of the Year –

Production Technology, Sahajanand

Technologies Pvt Ltd, India was

awarded. For Outstanding Enterprise

of the Year – India, H.K. Designs was

declared the winner. Abhay Chordia

of Ashok Jewels won the award of

Young Entrepreneur of the Year.

44 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

Round & About

Asso. & TrAde Bodies

DRC Techno launches New Lab-Grown

Diamond detection instruments

DRC Techno announced the

introduction of two new

instruments designed to identify

laboratory grown CVD and HPHT

diamonds. Their J-Mini and

J-Detect 9000 devices offer different

features and price points to

supplement their globally

recognized J-Smart Pro


DRC’s current technology

developments address the

concerns of the jewelry

industry in scanning

loose diamonds or those

mounted in jewelry from

0.003 carat of any shape

with colors from D through

GIA Upgrades iD100 Gem Testing Device to

Screen Pink Diamonds

GIA (Gemological Institute of

America) released a software

upgrade on September 4th for the

industry-leading GIA iD100® gem

testing device, giving the instrument

the ability to distinguish natural pink

diamonds from laboratory-grown (HPHT

and CVD) diamonds and diamond

simulants. The GIA iD100 Pink

Diamond Software Upgrade leverages

advanced spectroscopic technology,

combined with GIA's decades of

K. Diamond identification from

production sources to the retailers

is now essential at every level. The

new J-Mini is designed for over-thecounter

ease of use while J-Detect

research into pink diamonds. The new

software is available for purchase on the

GIA Store at store.GIA.edu for $ 249

9000 is made for larger applications.

“Our technology finds undisclosed

lab grown diamonds at every stage of

the diamond distribution pipeline

from diamond companies and

jewelry manufacturers to the finest

retailers. We find them

almost everywhere we

test,” he said. “Our sample

database now has increased

considerably compared to

any other similar service

providers, which helps us

to analyze each stone that

is scanned." said Vipul

Sutariya, director of the


as a download for current GIA iD100

owners or pre-installed when ordering

a new device.

“As the presence of laboratory-grown

diamonds increases in the market, it is

beneficial to have a robust, researchbased,

proven gem testing device such

as the GIA iD100,” said Anthony

Brown, GIA director of instruments

operations. “Even though our monthly

sales have tripled, we are able to fulfill

orders within two business days.”

46 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

Round & About

Asso. & TrAde Bodies

IGI's Know Your Diamond Jewellery Seminar

continues to educate diamond enthusiasts

As a part of their continued

efforts to educate consumers of

diamond jewellery, IGI conducted

a Know Your Diamond Jewelry

seminar for the esteemed clientele

of Tejasvi Jewellers. The knowledge

driven session was well attended and

appreciated. Introducing diamond

jewelry in a more technically

educative manner has helped the

participants view their diamonds from

a fresher perspective.

Beyond designs and the many other

visual aspects in the jewellery, the

seminar took the attendees through

the journey a diamond takes from the

mines onto beautiful diamond studded

creations. The importance of jewelry

certification too, was explained to the

participants to whom the art of reading

an IGI certificate was also imparted.

HRD Antwerp is expanding its business operations in India

HRD Antwerp is expanding its

business in India with new

services which include jewellery

grading and retail based education

courses. An HRD Antwerp Jewellery

Report is an official document in which

a jewellery item is authenticated for

different purposes, such as insurance,

inheritance or purchase. It can also be

used to determine the market value of a

jewel. These reports provide a general

description of the jewel including the

setting style, the diamonds it contains

(L-R) Ramazan Mete Alak - EVP Global Sales

of HRD Antwerp (Diamond High Council) with

M. P. Ahammed (Chairman - Malabar Gold and

Diamonds), Asher O (MD, India - Malabar Gold and

Diamonds and Jayantilal Challani

and the precious metals of which it is


Ramazan Mete Alak – EVP

Global Sales states, “In today’s

global scenario, consumers are

shifting from jewellery to other

luxury products due to the variety

of new choices. However, India is a

growing market and will be soon the

leader in the jewellery segment. In

a world of new developments, it is

Trust & Transparency that will always


48 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

Round & About

Asso. & TrAde Bodies

Sarine Technologies Launches Advanced Lab Services

at Bharat Diamond Bourse for BDB Members

The new Sarine Lab Services were

officially launched on August 12th

at a Grand Opening event, arranged

with the endorsement of the BDB

committee and with the participation

of Mehul Shah, Vice President of the

Bharat Diamond Bourse. Together, the

BDB Committee and Sarine decided

to allow any BDB member free access

to lab services that can help them add

value for their customers.

The Sarine Lab Services at BDB

provide pregrading to ascertain Light/

Cut grade for sorting purposes and

are provided for free. If a report is

required, this can be obtained with

an additional fee. Light Performance

results are analyzed via the Sarine

Light system and Cut grade

IGI helps students in Mumbai review novel career options



Gemological Institute

conducted a ‘Young

Gemologist’ workshop for

the students of Panbai

International School, Mumbai.

Known to enthuse young

and budding gemologists,

the workshop has been

introducing the world of gemstones

and diamonds across the country.

From the formation of diamonds

and gemstones to the composition

and varieties in each, the session

(L-R) Michael Goren, VP Global Sales & Marketing at Sarine, Mehul Shah, VP BDB, Ramniklal Shah, Venus,

Rajeshwari Mehta, VP Business Development at Sarin India, Yoav Efrat, Managing Director at Sarin India

measurement is determined with the

Sarine DiaMension ® HD system.

David Block, CEO of Sarine

Technologies, reflected that, “We

are thrilled to open the new Lab

Services center at the BDB, making

helped young minds go beyond

the conventional framework of

gemological studies. The mines to

market story and the various shapes

and styles that polished diamonds

the lab experience accessible for BDB

members. Our partnership with the

BDB committee and members is a

source of pride for Sarine, as we work

together to advance the industry into

the 21st century.”

and colored stones take

fascinated the students. The

workshop also introduces a

whole new branch of study to

the young minds, encouraging

them to search for a career in

a stream that offers so many

varied opportunities. The

interactive session also gave

an opportunity for students to view

the grand architecture of a diamond

under a microscope and to observe

the many optical phenomena in

polished gemstones.

50 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

Round & About

Retail & e-commeRce

PGI India launches “Men of Platinum” campaign

Platinum Guild International

– India lends a powerful

and a much-desired narrative to

masculinity as they foray into a new

category – Platinum Jewellery for

Men. Conceptualized and developed

by Famous Innovations, the

campaign was launched on the 18th

of September, with interesting prebuzz

content on digital. Two social

experiments marked the beginning

of the campaign that aimed at testing

a man’s character – his values &

prove exactly how rare men with

extraordinary values are – especially

in adverse situations & more so when

the stakes increase.

Elaborating on why the man today

chooses platinum, Sujala Martis,

Director - Consumer Marketing,

Platinum Guild International – India

says – “Platinum is as rare as the

values that define men of character,

which is why we call them men of

platinum. Today’s man aspires to lead

a life of personal greatness, beyond

the status defined by wealth alone.

Look at the success narratives around

us – they display an extraordinary set

of values. Platinum is the preferred

metal of choice for this rare breed of


Buccellati is world famous for

its rich history and patrimony,

distinguished by exceptional

craftsmanship and unique know-how

was acquired by Swiss luxury holding

goods company Richemont. The

transaction closed on 26 September

2019 and will have no material

financial impact on Richemont’s

consolidated net assets or operating

result for the year ending 31 March

2020. The results of Buccellati will

be reported under the Jewellery

Maisons business area.

Richemont acquires Buccellati

Commenting on the acquisition,

Johann Rupert, Chairman of

Richemont, said: “Buccellati meets

the needs of today’s customers who

are looking for creative jewellery,

with a highly distinctive style. We

welcome Andrea Buccellati, his

family and his team. “

Andrea Buccellati, Honorary

Chairman and Creative Director of

Buccellati, said, “We are proud to

join Richemont, a family-spirited

Group and nurturer of prestigious

luxury Maisons, with an undisputed

expertise in jewellery.”

52 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

ound & about

Retail & e-commeRce

For All Questions on Diamonds, There Is Only




diamond brand from

the De Beers Group,

has launched its latest

consumer campaign

#TrustForevermark to

help all prospective

buyers allay their doubts,

fears and questions

that arise when buying


The campaign

reaffirms the trust the

brand, Forevermark

inspires. It highlights the essence

of the brand and the apprehensions

consumers face when purchasing

a diamond. The campaign was

formulated through agency Greycells.

It showed that when buying a diamond,

Forevermark launches its flagship store with Fortofino in Chandigarh

Forevermark, opens its exclusive

diamond flagship store in

partnership with Fortofino, a jewellery

brand for every occasion. This is the

first Forevermark store in the city,

which exclusively retails Forevermark

diamonds in a wide variety of elegant

cuts, designer jewellery and loose


Forevermark withholds the promise

of transparency, trust and a high level

of confidence, which the patrons of

consumers are constantly looking for

reassurance that they have indeed

bought a genuine and natural diamond.

The diamond “Question mark” seen

across the campaign encapsulates all

the concerns of a consumer, establishing

(L-R) Sachin Jain- President Forevermark, Sonali

Bendre & Sanjiv Talla- CMD Fortofino launching

Forevermark Flagship store in Chandigarh

Chandigarh strongly deserve when buying

diamonds. The brand provides the world’s

most carefully selected natural diamonds,

Forevermark as the final

destination to put at

rest, all their diamondbuying


“As Forevermark,

we want our customer

to embrace the festivity

behind the purchase

and not worry about

the genuineness of the

product. Through the


campaign, we aim to

reassure the consumer

about the assurance the brand

provides, being among the world’s most

beautiful, natural, rare and responsibly

sourced diamonds,” said Sachin Jain,

President, Forevermark India.

each with its unique inscription number

to guarantee the most beautiful, rare

and responsibly sourced diamonds.

The store houses all the exquisite

Forevermark collections including

the Black Label Collection, Tribute,

Half carat Collection and Twogether

Collection to name a few. Apart from

jewellery displays, the store offers

unique interactive experiences for the

customers including a diamond gaming


DiamonD WorlD september-october 2019 53

Cover Story

London JeweLLery retaiL - anaLysis

The GrowinG


of AsiAn

Jewellers in


Market size and characteristics

Based on the 2016 census, UK has a population of

65 million and a per capita GDP of 28,448 pounds.

Retail is the largest private sector employer in UK

and employs 3 million people. According to Mintel,

a London based privately owned market research

agency, United Kingdom’s jewellery market is estimated

to be around 4.5 billion pounds per annum.

Adam Smith the Scottish Economist famously known

as the father of capitalism was the first one to describe

United Kingdom as the ‘Nation of Shopkeepers’

in his book Wealth of Nations published way

back in 1776. He had said that the Government of

Britain was exceptional because it was “influenced

by shopkeepers”, by which he meant small and medium-sized

traders and businesses.

The UK economy differs today from the rest of the developed

world. The entrepreneurship spirit still runs

strong. In 2018, there were 5.7 million businesses

in the UK, of which 95 per cent were small ones. 65

54 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

Cover story

Indians comprise of about

1.4 million people in the

United Kingdom making

them the single largest visible

ethnic minority population in

the country. British Pakistanis

are number two with a

population of 1.17 million.

With a population of half a

million, Bangladeshis are also

not too far behind. There are

close to 700 jewellers in the

UK and London alone has

150 jewellers of Asian origin

that cater to the needs of the

Asian population. Asians

the world over are known for

their entrepreneurial skills

and business acumen and

Anil Prabhakar during his

recent visit to the UK, studied

the Asian diaspora within the

jewellery community

per cent of UK’s retail sales are contributed by independents

and the jewellery sector is no different. It

is dominated by independent family run businesses.

While there are some large multiple chains, such as

H Samuel, Ernest Jones, Beaverbrooks, Fraser Hart,

Goldsmiths and F Hinds, which have a presence in

many shopping centres and larger town centres, the

family jeweller is commonplace and remains one of

the last bastions of true independent retailing to be

found on Britain’s high streets.

Consumer preference for buying fine

jewellery in the UK

• 29 per cent of the consumers prefer to

buy jewellery from chain stores such as H

Samuels. Their preferred destination for

fashion jewellery is Argos chain store with a

store count of over 883 doors.

• 22 per cent from Independents.

• 12 per cent from premium store chains

& departmental stores such as Harrods,

Harvey Nichols & Selfridges.

E commerce: According to Euromonitor International,

the UK is at the forefront of digital retailing

among Western markets. Relative to countries

such as the US, France and Germany, the UK sees

e-commerce capture a greater share of sales. Mobile

commerce accounts for a larger proportion of

e-commerce. Services such as click-and-collect are

more developed in the UK.

Online sale as per cent of total retail sale in

UK is 20 per cent and is the highest in the

world. France is 17.4 per cent & U.S. is 16.4

per cent.

UK jewellery sales via the online channel continue

to be driven by demi-fine and costume jewellery

brands rather than fine jewellery players due to the

enduring perceived risk associated with purchasing

big-ticket items online. The vast majority of UK

jewellery sales still take place offline, with jewellery

and watch specialists alone accounting for two

thirds of all fine jewellery value sales and a third

of costume jewellery value sales (Source: Euromonitor).

Bangladeshi women are decision makers when

it comes to buying jewellery. Self-purchase is

common among Bangladeshi Muslim Women

who have high disposable income as they

get Meher or mandatory payment from their

husbands when they get married

Vikram Santilal, Jeram Jewellers

DiamonD WorlD september-october 2019 55

Cover Story

India’s jewellery trade with UK

India exported U.S. $ 108.60 million worth of cut

and polished diamonds to UK during the year 2018

2019. The corresponding figure for the export of

plain and studded gold jewellery was US $ 233.20

million (Source: GJEPC). While the export of rough

and polished diamonds increased by 5 per cent over

the previous year, the export of plain and studded

gold jewellery fell by a whopping 50.65 per cent.

The major jewellery markets in the UK are:

• London

• Leicester

• Birmingham

• Manchester

• Leeds

• Glasgow

London has the highest population of people of Indian

origin. There are 5, 42,857 Indians living in London

alone. The largest group of British Indians are

those of Punjabi origin, accounting for an estimated

45 percent of the British Indian population followed

by other communities including Gujarati, Malayali,

Telugu and Tamilians. Southall is dominated by persons

of Punjabi origin from India as well as Pakistan.

It is referred to as Little India. The main street

in Southall is called The Broadway where most jewellers

have set up shops.

Joy Alukkas store on Green Street

Our store has been in operation

for the last ten years. It has

been doing reasonably well.

The clientele of this store

is predominantly Bengali

Muslims of Bangladeshi origin

who prefer to buy plain gold

jewellery. As 85 per cent of the customers

are Bengalis, the store is stocked with plain

gold jewellery. The fastest moving product

categories are bangles and chains

Jojan Thomas, Joy Alukkas

56 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

Cover story

Customers in Tulja Jewellers

Wembley is another area that has a high population

of Asians and is dominated by persons having roots

in the state of Gujarat. The largest concentrations of

British Bangladeshis live in east London boroughs.

They form one of the UK’s largest groups of people

of overseas descent and are also one of the country’s

youngest and fastest growing communities. Green

Street in East London has emerged as a major market

for Asian consumers.

The jewellery retail scenario in Asian dominated

areas looks underdeveloped and primitive as compared

to rest of London. Visiting jewellery markets

in Southall and the Green street gives you a feeling

as if you are Delhi’s Karol Bagh market.

All the jewellery stores in these areas have two sliding

doors that are locked from inside. One has to

press the bell in order to enter a store. There have

been increasing instances of armed robberies at retail

outlets that has necessitated the need for caution.

With the exception of Joy Alukkas, all jewellery

stores are mom and pop stores. Joy Alukkas set up

a store on the Green Street way back in 2009. Their

store is comparatively smaller as compared to any of

their stores you find in an Indian city.

Visuals of film start Kajol adorn the stores and there

are danglers announcing the Big Summer Sale offering

0 per cent deduction on old gold exchange.

Jojan Thomas, the showroom manager informed me

that the store has been in operation for the last ten

years. It has been doing reasonably well. The clientele

of this store is predominantly Bengali Muslims

of Bangladeshi origin who prefer to buy plain

gold jewellery. As 85 per cent of the customers are

Bengalis, the store is stocked with plain gold jewellery.

They prefer to get married in the UK. Weddings

are big buying occasions. The fastest moving product

categories are bangles and chains. Joy Alukkas’

brand ambassador Kajol finds an instant connect

with Bengalis.

British Bangladeshis are people of Bangladeshi

origin who have attained citizenship in the United

Kingdom, through immigration and historical naturalisation.

During the 1970s, large numbers of Bangladeshis

immigrated to the UK, primarily from the

Sylhet Division in north-eastern Bangladesh. The

largest concentration lives in east London boroughs,

such as Tower Hamlets. They buy gold jewellery for

adornment and investment.

Thomas informed me that 100 per cent of their

stocks are imported from their Dubai office. Joy

Alukkas has been contemplating opening their second

store in Southall. They advertise primarily on

Bangladeshi TV channels and it has proved beneficial

for them.

Most of the other jewellery stores on Green Street

are owned by Gujarati jewellers from Kathiyawad

who migrated to London via East Africa. Vikram

Santilal of Jeram Jewellers is one such jeweller

whose ancestors migrated from Madagascar. He is

The last two years have been bad for business.

The prices of gold has shot up drastically that

has led to the customers adopt a wait and watch

approach. Customers are postponing their

purchases hoping for prices to come down

Vijay Lodhia, Tulja jewellers

We are unhappy about the heavy price under

cutting prevailing on Green Street. There

are unscrupulous elements who are selling

smuggled gold ornaments and it is not possible

to match their prices

Zahid Khan, Pakeeza Jewellers

DiamonD WorlD september-october 2019 57

Cover Story

The Broadway - Southall

an active member of the Green Street Jewellers Association

(GSJA). Vikram has been trying to bring

innovation in designs and choice of materials and

precious stones. He informed me that Bangladeshi

women are decision makers when it comes to buying

jewellery. Self-purchase is common among Bangladeshi

Muslim Women who have high disposable income

as they get Meher or mandatory payment from

their husbands when they get married. By focusing

on design and diamonds, Vikram has been able to

improve his margins in a market that is characterised

by high volumes and low margins.

Tulja jewellers are a leading jeweller on Green

Street. While all other jewellery stores wore a deserted

look, Tulja jewellers store was crowded.

Named after the Indian Goddess of Jewellery, Tulja

is a family-owned business where every British

bride of South Asian heritage dreams of selecting

her wedding jewellery.The family are descendants

of jewellers in Rajkot , who expanded their business

internationally in the early 1900s, sailing to Yemen,

then moving to Khartoum, Sudan, and eventually to

London in the early 1990s. Vijay Lodhia Tulja’s coowner

was very frank and upfront in expressing his

views. He informed me that the last two years have

been bad for business. The prices of gold has shot

up drastically that has led to the customers adopt a

wait and watch approach. Customers are postponing

their purchases hoping for prices to come down.

Tulja caters to customers from all communities including

Punjabis, Gujaratis, Bengalis, Pakistanis,

Sri Lankans and other South Asian customers, as

well as non-Asians. Over a period of time, they have

diversified their product portfolio to include wedding

sets, diamond jewellery and 22 carat yellow

gold jewellery.

By spreading their net wider, Tulja jewellers have

been able to succeed in a competitive market. Vijay

has spent substantial money on sponsoring musical

shows to attract clients to his store. Vijay was

all praises for the Pakistani customers. The affluent

Pakistani customers don’t haggle. Their preference

is towards jewellery studded with precious coloured

stones. They are few in number in Green Street but

are his favourites.

The same sentiment was echoed by Zahid Khan

the owner of Pakeeza Jewellers. Zahid is a jeweller

of Pakistani origin who owned a jewellery store in

Jewellery displayed at Pure jewels

58 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

Cover story

New York. He chose to migrate to London after the

9/11 attacks. The average price points of jewellery

purchased by a Pakistani jeweller are higher than

other Asian customers. Zahid was unhappy about

the heavy price under cutting prevailing on Green

Street. There are unscrupulous elements who are

selling smuggled gold ornaments and it is not possible

to match their prices was his lament.

Dr. S A Khan of Daata Jewellers of Pakistani origin

is an accidental jeweller. He came into the jewellery

business serendipitously. A qualified medical

doctor and an academician to boot, Dr. Khan is a

manufacturer and a retailer. He is a respected name

on Green Street. According to Dr. Khan, Brexit is

the main culprit as it has created an uncertainty in

the minds of the consumer.

Jayant Raniga of Pure Jewels by Bhanji Gokaldas is

one of the most proactive South Asian jewellers on

Green Street. Over 40 years ago, Bhanji Gokaldas

and his three sons arrived in London and set up their

bespoke Asian gold jewellery workshop. They have

the distinction of being the first Asian jeweller on

Green Street. Jayant, an ex-banker and economist

joined the family business in 2003. He was quick

to spot an opportunity in the wedding market. The

area around Green Street in East London is a hub for

wedding related purchases. Indians either bought

their wedding trousseau in India or they would buy it

from Green Street. Asians from far flung areas would

commute all the way to Green Street. The challenge

was to get them to his store. He did this systematically

by advertising in wedding related magazines,

taking part in exhibitions and doing store events.

Retailing of international watch brands such as

Rado, Omega and Seiko also helped to attract the

attention of consumers from all nationalities. The

next and logical step was to focus on diamond jewellery.

Pure jewels manufacture wedding, engagement

rings and gem set bands in house. These are fast

movers and contribute to 90 per cent of the studded

jewellery segment.

Their key to success has been the fact that they have


changed and evolved with the new set of young and

urban customers. Jayant likes to call Pure Jewels a

technologically driven company. He is also an early

adopter of digital marketing techniques to attract

consumers to his online ecommerce store as well as

the physical retail outlet. The online channel contributes

to 25 per cent of his total sale.

British Asian weddings are known for their grandeur

and lavish celebrations. The instances of mixed

marriages have increased in London. It is common

to find an Indian girl getting married to an English

groom and vice versa. This segment is open to suggestions

and has a higher budget. These couples

love diamonds and the designs play an important

role in the choice of their jewellery.

Proactive jewellers such as Naveen Kumar of Ra-

Brexit is the main culprit as it has created an

uncertainty in the minds of the consumer

Dr. S A Khan, Daata Jewellers

Pure Jewels is a technologically driven company. We

are an early adopter of digital marketing techniques to

attract consumers to our online ecommerce store as

well as the physical retail outlet. The online channel

contributes to 25 per cent of our total sale

- Jayant Raniga, Pure Jewels by Bhanji Gokaldas

DiamonD WorlD september-october 2019 59

Cover Story

Jewellery displayed in Southhall Store

mesh Jewellers and Kishan Kumar of Taj Jewels

have worked meticulously on the jewellery that they

retail. Both of them have their stores on The Broadway

in Southall. More than half of the retail area at

Taj Jewels is allotted to diamond jewellery. The Ramesh

Jewellers’ store has all the jewellery that the

Asian bride would look for.

Sunil Babber of Ram Prakash Sunderdass & Sons

(RPS) Jewellers in Southall is a leading player in

the UK. The secret of his success is in the quality of

relationship that he enjoys with his customers, business

acumen and foresight.

Explaining the Punjabi psyche, he explained to me

the importance of jewellery in their weddings. Weddings

are occasions where the entire family gets an

opportunity to display their wealth and status.

A Punjabi from India or Pakistan has similar tastes.

The joint family spirit is thriving among the Pakistanis.

It is more so because of economic compulsions.

Most Pakistanis have small businesses. Living

in a joint family has its advantages. Costs get shared

and the closely knit members help each other. Weddings

are occasions where they do not hold back and

splurge on jewellery buying. The investment angle

is predominant in their purchase.

Talking about the Indian consumers, Sunil said that

the new generation Indians are well educated. They

are earning good money in their professions and corporate

careers. They are setting up nuclear families

and moving away from Southall to other localities for

a better quality of life.

RPS jewellers have expanded their business to London’s

diamond district located at Hatton Gardens.

This commercial area is in the Holborn district has

over 800 diamond merchants involved in the wholesale

and retail of diamonds and diamond jewellery.

Hatton Garden was once dominated by the Jewish

community. It now has a sizable presence of Indian

businessmen. Sunil’s son Sameer Babber looks after

the retailing business at Hatton gardens. Their two

outlets Abrahams and RPS diamonds are among the

prominent stores.

Vivek Khandelwal Director of Emdico London Limited

has an office in the building that is aptly called

New generation Indians are well educated. They

are earning good money in their professions and

corporate careers. They are setting up nuclear

families and moving away from Southall to other

localities for a better quality of life

Sunil Babber, Ram Prakash Sunderdass & Sons

(RPS) Jewellers

Jewellery displayed at Joy Alukkas

60 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

Cover story

100 Hatton Garden. The name ‘Emdico’ is derived

from ‘EM’erald ‘DI’amond ‘CO’mpany and originates

from the company’s early focus and specialty

in supplying high quality Emeralds and Diamonds

to gemstone dealers and jewellery manufacturers in

the UK. Emdico has production facility in Mumbai

and workshops in London & Italy.

Explaining the prevailing situation in the jewellery

industry, Vivek opined that the sale of diamond jewellery

has been affected. The middle and low priced

segment comprises of customers who buy diamonds

& jewellery for gifting and as fashion accessory.

Increase in price of diamonds has resulted in customers

looking for alternatives such as watches and

mobile phones.

The quality and workmanship of non-precious fashion

jewellery has improved over a period of time.

This has resulted in the consumers buying fashion

jewellery. The market at the top end is relatively

stable. However, the buyers are demanding longer

credit periods that impact our margins. The imports

from India has reduced due to the competition from

alternative sources such as China and Taiwan.

Dilip Sekhawat of Rosin Jewels is a leading wholesaler

of gold and diamond jewellery in the UK. They

have sourcing offices in BDB and Italy. According to

him, the depreciation of Sterling Pound and the fluctuating

gold prices have impacted the gold jewellery

business. This has resulted in consumers buying

less gold during weddings. In the UK, the burglaries

have increased and keeping gold at home has

become risky. The fact that the young consumers are

losing interest in gold jewellery is well documented.

To address the concerns of the industry, British

Asian jewellers are setting up an autonomous networking,

lobbying and educational forum comprising

members who are interested in the British Asian

jewellery market and doing business with Asia.

The jewellers are currently crafting a constitution

for a so-called British Asian Jewellers’ Alliance

(BAJA), expected to comprise mainly UK-based retailers

and wholesalers with business and family ties

to India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, China, Turkey and

other countries. The British Asian jewellery market

is believed to account for more than 2 percent

of total UK jewellery turnover, and is a high-value

segment of the market due to British Asian tastes for

22- and 18-carat gold jewellery.

“BAJA will welcome anyone interested in the British

Asian market whatever their background and

will be completely autonomous,” said Mehul Lodhiya,

owner of wholesaler Nysa Creations and one of

the architects of BAJA. Jayant Raniga of Pure Jewels

and David Brough, editor of Jewellery Outlook

complete the trio of BAJA architects.

The sale of diamond jewellery has been affected.

The middle and low priced segment comprises

of customers who buy diamonds & jewellery for

gifting and as fashion accessory. Increase in price

of diamonds has resulted in customers looking for

alternatives such as watches and mobile phones..

The market at the top end is relatively stable.

However, the buyers are demanding longer credit

periods that impact our margins. The imports from India has

reduced due to the competition from alternative sources such as

China and Taiwan

Vivek Khandelwal, Emdico London

The depreciation of Sterling Pound and the

fluctuating gold prices have impacted the gold

jewellery business. This has resulted in consumers

buying less gold during weddings

-Dilip Sekhawat, Rosin Jewels

DiamonD WorlD september-october 2019 61

Company nEWS

KGK Group

GoinG Live

Adding another feather to its cap, the KGK Group introduces

an online diamond trading platform, KGK Live

With a significant presence

across the globe in the

gems & jewellery industry,

the KGK Group has its fingers in

every pie. Be it mining, diamond

manufacturing, coloured stones,

studded jewellery or even real estate,

the KGK Group is a formidable name

in the gems and jewellery industry.

Their unique vertically integrated

business model that spreads from

mines-to- retail is what sets it apart

from any other organization. Currently

head quartered in Hong Kong, the

group originated in 1905 when

Keshrimalji Kothari began trading

Burmese coloured gemstones in

Jaipur, India. It is his principled and

passionate approach that forms the

foundation of this Group and continues

to shine in every transaction the Group


The group is active in Asia,

Americas, Europe, Africa and

Australia with a team strength of

12000 employees the world over.

To ensure high quality and value,

the KGK Group invests in primary

gemstone mining in South America

and Africa. It is committed to

ethical sourcing and benefiting local

communities and does not source from

conflict zones ensuring the mines

conform to best practices. In the

diamonds category, KGK deals only

in natural diamonds and tracks each

stone from rough to finished product.

The KGK Group was one of the first

companies to reach out to international

brands and create valuable

partnerships, thereby creating a

global presence. Strategic tie ups with

renowned brands like Judith Ripka

have helped their growth by sharing

and exploiting the mutual business

62 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

Company nEWS

synergies. The Group serves every

segment of the jewellery market with

collections featuring diamonds and

gemstones in platinum, gold and silver

settings. With its integrated mines-tobrands

approach, the Group enables

cost efficiencies that translate into

exceptional value.

Carrying forward its passion of

keeping up with modern trends KGK

has devised a unique diamond trading

platform. Since we are living in the

technology driven modern digital

world, there is a fierce price pressure

and competition and to leverage under

these markets. To keep up the pace

amongst the leading players of the

industry, one has to be upbeat and

this brought forth an imperative idea

to develop an online trading platform

called KGK Live. With an aim to serve

their consumers in a better way, the

platform was set up.

The KGK Live vertical offers some

outstanding offers to clients all over

the world for polished diamonds using

a fixed price mechanism. Clients can

bid for the diamonds of their choice

and it is sold on a bid to buy system.

It operates on preferential sales to

clients having best prices on new

arrival inventory. One of the most

unique features of this initiative is

that it is both fast and dynamic. As the

name suggests, KGK Live is actually

live 24/7, everyday. It’s simple user

interface and user friendly approach

ensures that you can view goods,

makes selections and place your bids

in a quick and easy manner. The

interface has been designed keeping in

mind the young and vibrant approach

that the Group stands for.

DiamonD WorlD september-october 2019 63

Trade TraDe Fair

September Gem & Jewellery Fair – Hong Kong





While local political

protests and ongoing

U.S. China trade war were

posing a threat to the

sustenance of the fair, it

has definitely given a boost

and uplifted the sentiment

of the local trade, as the

gemstone section was

seen buzzing with activity

64 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

Trade Fair

The 2019 edition of the

September Hong Kong

Jewellery & Gem Fair – the

biggest marketplace for the global

jewellery community – presented a

wide selection of diamonds, coloured

gemstones and pearls as it opened its

doors at the AsiaWorld-Expo (AWE).

The show featured 30 group

pavilions and 25 theme zones, with

precious materials at the AWE from

September 16 to 20, and unveiled

finished jewellery collections,

packaging solutions, tools and

equipment, and industry-related

technologies at the Hong Kong

Convention & Exhibition Centre

(HKCEC) from September 18 to 22.

A lot has been at stake for the

September Hong Kong fair given the

current political unrest. Speculations

were rife about the prospect of the

show because of the ongoing local

protests against the government and

the US-China trade war. There had

been requests from the GJEPC as

well as the Antwerp Diamond Centre

to postpone the show, but Informa

Markets, which organizes the show

rejected the requests as the continuity

of the show was important for the

health of the local businesses.

As many companies avoided

participating and some buyers too did

not participate in the show because

of the local protests, the expectation

as such was below average. The show

marked its beginning with far less

visitors as compared to the previous

years, but exhibitors claimed that

the response has not been bad. The

gemstone pavilion was especially

buzzing with serious activity. All the

major international brands including

Full Richmond Group were seen on

the floor buying.

Response for loose diamonds was

relatively slow but exhibitors were

optimistic. Buyers were heard saying

that many exhibitors didn’t display

big stones or high price merchandise

because of insurance issues. Hence

a lot of small goods, stones with low

colour and clarity were on display.

The local players were happy that

the show took place amidst all the

tension – had it not happened, it

would’ve been worse and resulted in

recession in an already slow market,

they said. The show will definitely

aid in bringing more business and

will keep the offices busy for the next

couple of months, the locals said.

Considering this is the last show of

the year, and as it is positioned ahead

of festive season, it definitely worked

as an impetus to the markets that is

currently going through a slowdown.

“Jewellery & Gem World Hong

Kong remains the ultimate meeting

place for the global jewellery

industry,” said David Bondi, Senior

Vice President – Asia at Informa

Markets. “What’s happening in Hong

Kong now and the uncertainties in

the global economy are affecting us

in a certain way. Visitor turnout was

down but traffic quality was up. We

did receive positive compliments from

exhibitors and high-quality visitors

who engaged in serious trading at the


Visitor numbers from China saw the

biggest drop compared with year-ago

DiamonD WorlD september-october 2019 65

Trade Fair

figures while Japan, Israel and some

markets recorded an increase in buyer

turnout. Professional buyers also made

the most out of their trip by spending

more time at the show compared to

previous editions.

As the biggest and the last global

jewellery sourcing event of the year,

the September Fair is an integral

part of the industry and for many

companies, Bondi continued.

“They use the fair as launch pads

for their new collections, products

and services, which account for a

year’s worth of work and promotions

from our customers’ side,” he shared.

“This only serves to reaffirm our strong

commitment to deliver the September

Fair to the industry.”

Celine Lau, Director of Jewellery

Fairs at Informa Markets, commented,

“The positive feedback that we

have received from buyers and

exhibitors prove just how important

the September Fair is to the jewellery

trade. We deeply appreciate the

confidence and trust that our industry

partners and customers have placed in

us and we look forward to delivering

an even more outstanding sourcing

experience to the global jewellery

community in the years to come.”

Annually, the September Fair offers

the final sourcing opportunity for

serious buyers who are building up

their inventories for the coming peak

selling seasons.

“No one can afford to miss the

opportunity to generate much-needed

revenues during the Christmas and

New Year season,” Lau added. “This

gave us the resolve to deliver the best

September Fair possible to the global

jewellery community.”

Tech Pod sessions ran at regular

intervals until September 22 in Hall

3B of HKCEC, giving attendees the

opportunity to discover new solutions

that could help them drive business


Also at the HKCEC, gemmological

laboratories and trade associations

shared their latest research findings

and industry updates at sessions

scheduled until September 22.

Meanwhile, show organiser Informa

Markets unveiled at the show the

refreshed brand identity of its June

and September Fairs: Jewellery &

Gem Asia Hong Kong for the June

edition and Jewellery & Gem World

Hong Kong for the September show.

The 2020 edition of Jewellery

& Gem World Hong Kong, the

biggest jewellery fair in the world, is

scheduled for September 13 to 17 at

the AWE and September 15 to 19 at

the HKCEC. Asia’s No. 1 mid-year

event, Jewellery & Gem Asia Hong

Kong, will be held from June 25 to 28

at the HKCEC next year.

66 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

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IIJS 2019

DiamonDs Faired

Decently Well At

iiJs 2019

One of Asia’s biggest G&J shows, this year IIJS played host to 3000

exhibitors and had around 35,000 visitors

68 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

Trade Fair

Dignitaries at the inaugural lamp lighting ceremony

The 36th edition of IIJS opened

in a grand manner at Bombay

Exhibition Centre. One of

Asia’s biggest G&J shows, this year the

show played host to 3000 exhibitors

and had around 35,000 visitors. The

inauguration, along with the flag

hoisting ceremony saw the attendance

of this industry’s crème de la crème.

Present at the show were Chief Guest-

Ashish Shelar, Minister of School Education,

Sports and Youth Welfare of

Maharashtra, Guests of Honor - Paul

Rowley, Executive Vice President,

Diamond Trading, De Beers Group &

Evgeny Agureev, Director of the United

Selling Organization, ALROSA, Chairman

- Pramod Agrawal, Vice Chairman

- Colin Shah, Convener (National Exhibitions)

Mansukh Kothari, Co Convener

– Kirit Bhansali and other dignitaries.

“It is very important that we get

demand for jewellery and reach new

markets. G&J industry needs to adopt

world’s ever-evolving ways of doing

business. The trade needs to capatalise

on the ongoing U.S China trade war

and see how we get more business from

both China and U.S. Diamonds form

the largest component of Indian G&J

industry and it is going through a crisis.

We recently requested De Beers to

increase its marketing spends. We also

had a long discussion with ALROSA

and requested them also to pump in

more funds in marketing. The council’s

main agenda is to promote small

and midscale businesses. The Council

has set up 4 CFCs in Gujarat and more

are coming up in Coimbatore, Kolkata,

Maharashtra and more,” said Pramod

Agrawal, Chairman, GJEPC.

Speaking on the challenges faced by

the diamond industry, Paul Rowley, Executive

VP, Diamond Trading, De Beers

Group, “I am very optimistic about the

trade even though we are facing quite a

bit of challenges. Going forward we will

be spending more in marketing in U.S.

and gradually other markets as well.

Macroeconomic challenges are impacting

businesses across the world. In my

36 years of existence in the diamond

industry, I have not faced these kinds

of challenges - with Brexit, US-China

trade war and more! And the G&J industry

has its own share of problems.

But what is important is that how we

tackle all of this collectively. I have

always been impressed by the shared

energy of this country. We have a strong

domestic market for diamonds in India

and I don’t think that is something

we should ignore. India is perhaps the

youngest country in the world right now


DiamonD WorlD september-october 2019 69

Trade Fair

and millennials just like all of us are in

love with diamonds.”

Chief Guest, Ashish Shelar insisted

on improvising skills to match international

standards when it comes to

jewellery. “If the responsibility of shaping

and cutting the diamonds in such

a way that it shines brilliantly is with

the industry, ensuring that you get the

right human resource for the same lies

with the department of Education. PM

Modi and Commerce Minister Piyush

Goyal are doing everything they can to

support the trade. We are going to have a

Jewellery Park here in Maharashtra and

we need good human resource who are

highly skilled to make jewellery of international

standards. So, we will soon

open a G&J school and university where

students can hone their skills.”

With an additional Hall 7 that will

have 100+ exhibitors, enhanced security

and ease of entry, this year’s IIJS delivered

more than what it had promised.

JB & Brothers

Exhibitors Speak

First day was not required - we didn’t

get too many enquiries, so the mood

started off on a dull note but gradually

things have picked up. I don’t think

India is affected as much by the

macroeconomic seen. Domestically

there is still demand and we are

geared up because there are a lot of wedding dates this

year - Ankit Shah, Ankit Gems

The show has

performed better

than what we

expected. Of

course, demand

for big carat sizes

are not very good

but small sizes are still seeing a good

response - Sanjay Shah, Gold Star

70 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

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Ankit Gems

Economic slowdown coupled with

gold price hitting an all-time high has

certainly had its share of impact. Having

said that, a majority of the exhibitors

believed that the show fared better

than what they had expected.

The 36th edition of IIJS welcomed

the trade amidst a lot of global and domestic

upheavals – markets globally

haven’t been performing well and the

diamond trade is going through a very

big crisis that it hasn’t experienced in

a while. There were concerns of course,

amidst the jewellery fraternity about

how the show would perform given all

these factors – but as they say, whatever

the case, the show must go on and so it

did. The five halls (with the addition of

Hall 7) were packed with crowds, especially

on the second day leading up to

the weekend.

It is all in the mind, if you want to

take things in the positive stride,

everything will be positive. I think

the trade in India is still doing better

as compared to U.S. and China.

The rise in gold price has slowed

down the market a little bit but that

will get better soon. For us, solitaires are doing very

well and 0.5 ct and 1 ct sizes are doing very well. I

am very optimistic - Ghanshyam Dholakia, Hari

Krishna Exports


30,000 visitors attended

the show through four days

2nd and 3rd day of

the show saw packed

audiences with Hall 7A

seeing the most number of


Preview day continues to

be a waste of time without

any value addition

Entry and exit continues to

be tedious

A versatile portfolio of

international attendance is

much needed

The trade has seen a 30

per cent decrease in

business volumes

Price in gold hike has had

its impact on the show

Gold, light weight jewellery

performed well

Jadau and colour stone

jewellery witnessed decent


Diamonds have fared

better than last year

DiamonD WorlD september-october 2019 71

Trade Fair

Hall 1 didn’t get major attention this time as

visitors finished their businesses in Hall 5, 6

and 7A. Visitors from Asian countries as well

as Middle East were seen, but there weren’t

too many from the likes of the U.S., Europe

and the UK

Varni Gems

A majority of the exhibitors felt that

IIJS continues to give the industry a

much needed impetus, especially now,

with all the issues surrounding import

duty hike and rise in gold price. While

the visitor turn out is overall satisfactory,

with buyers attending the show, a

better filtration system has been an issue

at IIJS where many end consumers

were seen scouting for jewellery at the

show floor.

IIJS has always been good for the

domestic market. Every retailer, from

small to big, from tier 2 and 3 cities as

well as metros look forward to the show,

especially because of the ongoing buying

season. Visitors from Asian countries

as well as the Middle East were

seen, but there weren’t too many from

the likes of the U.S., Europe and the

UK. However, domestic visitor attendance

has only gotten better over the


Though exhibitors received many enquiries,

whether or not it will result in

actual business is something only time

will tell. But the upcoming festive season

and the fact that there is one too

many auspicious days this year have

given the jewellers some kind of solace

and despite the somber mood, jewellers

were still hopeful.

The preview day, which was created

to get exclusive buyers (by invitation) to

the show, has resulted in no value addition,

as a majority of them believed that

the preview day hasn’t really amounted

to anything. Tedious processes surrounding

entry and exit continue to be

an issue much to visitors’ dismay. Complaints

regarding quality of food have

also been a major issue and the biggest

grouse seems to be that of the floor plan

– as many believed that Hall 1 didn’t

get major attention this time as visitors

finished their businesses in Hall 5, 6

and 7A.

Exhibitors Speak

First day should be open for

all. We have been getting

enquiries but whether or not

they will convert into sales is

something we will have to wait

and see. This time I hardly got

any free time as I was attending

to customers and this was not the case last year

as the footfall was dull – Mehul Dungrani,

Varni Gems

We have displayed 22ct

close setting for jewellery

which has received

maximum enquiry and

orders. Compared to

last year, this year has

been very good. U.S. is

doing very stable but China is not doing

very well and this is helping us in some

ways – Vipul Sutariya, Dharmanandan


72 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

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4th EdItIon of


dazzles In

nEw dElhI

Featuring 60 top jewellery manufacturers across the

country, with new additions like Retail Innovation & a

glamorous fashion show ‘Beyond Brilliance’, COUTURE

India drew 100 + hosted buyers from around India and 800

jewellers in and around Delhi over a course of three days

The 4th Edition of COUTURE

India was a reigning success

despite market sentiments.

The business boutique show has

become one of the most sought after

jewellery exhibitions in a span of four

years, where both manufacturers and

buyers look forward to participating

in the show to experience the best of

everything. Providing a one-of-kind

experience be it jewellery or events

surrounding the show has remained

COUTURE India’s specialty, and this

year too, the organizers pulled all stops

Tara Fine Jewels

78 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

Trade Fair

(L-R) Subhash Bhola, K Srinivasan, Anand Shah, Vijay Khanna, Alok Kala, Mansukh Kothari & Arpit

Kala at the inaugural lamp lighting ceremony

(L-R) Nirupa Bhatt, Ajay Kala, Subhash Bhola, Alok Kala & Himanshu Shekhar

Ghatiwala Jewellers

in making sure the elite manufacturers

and retailers did business in an

atmosphere filled with leisure and


The show opened on 26 September

to a packed audience and the who’s

who of the industry was present – the

inauguration was witnessed by Chief

Guests Subhash Bhola of Bholasons

Jewellers, Vijay Khanna of Khanna

Jewellers, K Srinivasan of Emerald

Jewel Industry, Anand Shah of Anand

Shah Jewels and Mansukh Kothari of

Vasupati Jewellers.

“Every year, we strive to become

better and give our best to both

exhibitors and retailers. From its

inception, COUTURE India has tried

to create a bridge between the cream

of the crop of this jewellery industry,

finest of jewellery manufacturers and

select retailers. A unique buying

experience is what sets us apart from

the rest of the shows,” said Arpit Kala,

show organizer.

Speaking on the show’s ever

evolving nature, Subhash Bhola of

Bholasons Jewellers said, “This show

is a trendsetter – every time a retailer

comes here, they change the look and

feel of their showroom, their jewellery

and everything else. It is very inspiring

to be here and the show is definitely


K Srinivasan of Emerald Jewel

Industry commented, “This is my first

time here and honestly I am surprised.

Only the best are here and the show

also has been organized very well.

Kudos to the team.”

This year, the show had an

additional attraction – Retail

Innovation that included brands that

cater to technological, grading and

architectural/interior requirements

of the retailers. Virtual Diamond

Boutique, DRC Techno, MiRRar by

StyleDotMe, eJohri and V-Design

Architects were part of this unique

initiative by COUTURE India among

other brands.

“This show is extraordinary and

they have set a benchmark. I know

a lot of people in this industry who

DiamonD WorlD september-october 2019 79

Trade Fair

I have lost touch with but now I am

able to reconnect with them, thanks

to COUTURE. The environment is

so peaceful to concentrate and buy

jewellery. And there is a great mix of

contemporary and traditional jewellery.

The organizers have thought of every

little detail,” said Sumeet Anand of

Punjabi Saraf Jewellers.

The show was divided into three

broad categories- Hall of Sparkle

housing diamond studded jewellery,

Hall of Heritage housing gold and

jadau jewellery and Diamonds by

DW for loose diamonds and coloured

gemstones. Each section had prominent

manufacturers in their respective

categories and displayed their skill and

creativity through their jewellery pieces.

Radhika Jewels

Bollywood Night by Rooh

“This is our second time here. The

show is very well organized and we

are well taken care of. The place is

not crowded and we get one on one

attention which is great. The jewellery

is also light weight and as per cosumer

preferences,” said Shail and Devika

Kapoor of Kashi Jewellers.

After a hard day’s work, exhibitors

and buyers were seen unwinding and

relaxing at the Bollywood Night where

Dubai based band Rooh performed

a few foot tapping numbers for the

audience. It was a night full of great

music, revelry and good networking

opportunities. Taking the whole

show to another level was ‘Beyond

Brilliance’ fashion night, which had

models walking the ramp wearing

exquisite jewels from the exhibitors.

Dressed in stunning cocktail gowns

for the first sequence, the models

adorned contemporary diamond and

coloured stoned jewels that added to

the sparkle of the night. It was the

opulence and grandeur of the Indian

outfits that beautifully complemented

the rich heritage of the Indian themed

jewellery pieces in the second

sequence giving the night a touch of


This year too, COUTURE India

hosted IJ Knowledge Forum. An

illustrious panel featuring Viraj

Sheth of Batukbhai & Sons, Tejpal

Ranka of Ranka Jewellers, Pooja

Sheth of Limelight Labgrown

diamonds, Meghna Saraogi of

MiRRar by StyleDotMe and Vibha

Sarin Prabhakar of MMTC –PAMP

discussed the changing scene of

jewellery retailers and potential

solutions to entice the ever elusive

consumer as part of the IJ Knowledge

Forum. The Forum was moderated by

jewellery and watch consultant Anil

Prabhakar who also shared valuable

insights on the current retail sector

and his predictions for the future of the


COUTURE India drew 100 +

hosted buyers from around India and

800 jewellers in and around Delhi over

a course of three days.

80 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

Buyers speak

This show is extraordinary

and they have set a

benchmark. I know a lot of

people in this industry who I

have lost touch with but now

I am able to reconnect with them, thanks

to COUTURE. The environment is so

peaceful to concentrate and buy jewellery.

And there is a great mix of contemporary

and traditional jewellery. The organizers

have thought of every little detail.

-Sumeet Anand, Punjabi Saraf Jewellers

Trade Fair

This is our second time here. The

show is very well organized and we

are well taken care of. The place is

not crowded and we get one on

one attention which is great. The

jewellery is also light weight as per the consumer


- Shail Kapoor, Kashi Jewellers

I liked the services section which was

very interesting. There were a couple of

decisions that I was delaying since the past

few months which I was able to close on,

thanks to the ease that the show provides

-Pratap Kamath, Abaran Timeless Jewellery

Due to the selective nature of exhibitors at the COUTURE, I have always liked this show.

Since we are getting a lot of time with the manufacturers we are able to also customize

the pieces as retailers. So it’s a great platform where everyone is under one roof. The

show organization is also very beautiful and year by year they are improving.

Prerna Khurana, Khurana Jewellery House

Exhibitors Speak

This is my first show in

India and what better

platform than the

COUTURE India! The

show organization has

been tremendous, everything has

been to perfection. Especially the

fashion show, Beyond Brilliance

was done really well. The setup is

very similar to the Couture show in

Las Vegas and this is a very focused

show in terms of the buyer group

that they bring in.

Sweta Jain, Goshwara

We had heard about COUTURE India show

and now having experienced it, I can say

that the best part of the show is that all the

designer jewellery manufacturers have come

together and we have the best buyers. The

format is excellent as we do not have to travel to and fro

from the venue. It’s more like a family experience

Sanjay Jain, Manoj Ornaments

It’s by far one of the best shows I have

participated in. Both the manufacturers and

retailers are both top category and it makes

it really pleasurable for us to do business.

Viral Kothari, Kosha Fine Jewels

DiamonD WorlD september-october 2019 81

Trade TraDe Fair

Vicenzaoro September


An economic crisis, rising gold prices or a general shift in preference of the consumers,

nothing can really bring down the spirit of Vicenzaoro, a show committed to the excellence

of jewellery craftsmanship says Vijetha Rangabashyam

Art and design is intrinsic to Italy.

Creating beautiful things with

painstaking artistry runs in their

DNA. From architecture to food, fashion,

and music, the Italians take pleasure in

arduousness. It is no wonder then that

this country that gave birth to renaissance

among other cultural ideologies, which

stand the test of time, is also known for

its excellence in jewellery. It is home to

jewellery and craftsmanship steeped in

thousands of years of tradition. Arresting

designs in buttery gold from Florence,

Milan and Vicenza, colourful jewellery

with juicy gemstones exclusive to Rome

and radiant jewellery in rustic designs

with corals and turquoise from Capri and

Amalfi Coast – each region is known for

its unique sense of flamboyance, but they

all exude an aura of bonafide Italian je ne

sais quoi that is inimitable.

Vicenza, though quaint, is filled with

city slickers who know their jewellery

in and out. If you drive down from Fiera

di Vicenza fairgrounds to the heart of this

medieval city, you will witness another side

to it– a bustling Piazza dei Signori, where

you might find locals sipping on the neon

orange, very palatable Spritz Veneziano and

animatedly talking, probably about jewellery,

among other things. Home to world

famous brands like Roberto Coin, Fope and

Pesavento, jewellery heritage in Vicenza

dates back to a time older than some of the

beautiful buildings the city houses. Basilica

Palladiana, named after Andrea Palladio,

one of Italy’s famed architects, also a

resident of Vicenza, with its majestic white

marble arches, nestles Museo del Gioiello,

the only museum dedicated to jewellery in

Italy. A cultural attraction, the museum is

funded by the Italian Exhibition Group,

organizers of Vicenzaoro, a jewellery trade

show that has proven to be very important

for Europe, over the years.

This year, the September edition welcomed

over 1300 exhibitors and visitors

from 117 nations. In addition to this,

around 500 buyers were hosted from all

over the world. The mood was rather subdued

for sure, as Europe, is at the centre

of an ongoing economic crisis. The bigger

maisons have definitely flourished in Europe,

in turn they have caused the smaller,

family owned businesses to further downsize,

many have even disappeared. An Indian

exhibitor on a condition of anonymity

told me that the show was once talk of the

town and getting a booth was tough not to

mention costed the earth, today things are

Verdi coral


84 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

Trade TraDe Fair

not the same. But the show is of cultural

significance in all of Italy, of taking pride

in their rich history of art and magnificent


The decreasing popularity of Baselworld

has also in some ways created an

undue advantage for Vicenzaoro. Over the

last couple of years, the show has managed

to regain its past glory with excellent

infrastructure, steady expansion and more

importantly an aggressive PR strategy.

The timing of the show is also something

worthy of talking about – the European

buyers, which constitutes a major portion

of the visitor footfall, attend the show to

stock their Christmas inventory.

The layout, which was divided into

Icon, Look, Creation, Essence, Expression

and Evolution as in the previous years was

easy to navigate. Design Room, a space

dedicated to high jewellery designers was

back this time with designers like Alessio

Boschi, Lydia Courteille, Mattia Cielo,

Marie Mas, and Tomasz Donocik among

others exhibiting their stunning creations.

Spreading SuStainability

The theme of the show was “Sustainability”-

a burning aspect that has become

a part and parcel of many successful

luxury brands. In the jewellery industry

especially, considering the investment is

significantly larger, adopting sustainable

measures are all the more necessary. The

opening talk, titled “Spreading Sustainability”

moderated by the editor of Sole

24 Ore, Fabio Tamburini, had speakers

including Matteo Ward, CEO and CMO,

WRÅD, Simonetta Di Tommaso, official

with the Ministry for Economic Development,

Will Kahn, Marketing Director of

Moda Operandi and Contributing Editor

with Town and Country Magazine, and

Cristina Squarcialupi, Vice President,

UnoAerre Industries. “We are trying to

provide products that are based on new

sustainable values. Products like bags,

shoes and jewellery have to be environmentally

conscious and should not be

hazardous to your health. We are trying to

understand the term sustainability. Traceability

is paramount. There are many

interesting technology that is starting

around this. 89 per cent of the people who

fall between the age brackets of 16 to 60

all want to know where their products are

coming from. In economic terms, since

natural resources are dwindling it is very

important to introduce these dynamics.

Traceability and trackablity can be introduced

in an economic way,” said Matteo

Ward of WRÅD, a sustainable clothing


“My company is into the recovery of

precious metal. We are no longer digging

gold in the mine and so there is less

(L-R) Will Kahn, Cristina Squarcialupi, Fabio Tamburini, Simonetta Di Tommaso & Matteo Ward



DiamonD WorlD september-october 2019 85

Trade Fair

impact on the environment. We already

have a history of using recycled gold,”

said Cristina Squarcialupi of UnoAerre

Industries. “In Italy, new rules will have

specific duties for companies that centre

around auditing, having proper risk management

practices. An effective and solid

management system must be communicated

to the suppliers - supply chain both

upstream and downstream should be established.

You have to declare where and

how you buy gold and how you pay with it.

This will be compulsory on the 1st January

2021. Companies have to comply with

these rules if they process more than 100

kilogram of metal per year. Sustainability

must be viewed as an opportunity,” added

Simonetta Di Tommaso.

“I’ve seen an increased consumer interest

in sustainability. Especially in the

jewellery industry, investment is huge

and it’s important that your investment is

safe. Tiffany for example has been fully

transparent about their diamonds. People

want to know where, how and who their

purchase is impacting. If you are a jewellery

shopper it is a given that you have

that disposable income. Our generation is

participating in consumer activism. They

are boycotting companies, which are not



Middle east (+23%)

north america (+22%)

russia and Ukraine (+19%)

asia (+18%) with a

particular increase in

Japan by (+43%)

Portugal (+51%)

romania (+28%)

austria (+9%)

(L-R) Lauren Kulchinsky Levison, Paola De Luca, Lynn Yaeger, Alba Cappellieri & Katerina Perez

adopting sustainable practices. They only

want to spend if they know it’s environmentally

friendly,” said Will Kahn.

Trendvision Jewellery+


Another interesting panel discussion on

trends was moderated by Lynn Yaeger, the

famous fashion editor of Vogue USA, with

Paola De Luca, Lauren Kulchinsky Levison

VP, Chief Style Officer and Curator

of Mayfair Rocks, jewellery blogger and

influencer Katerina Perez and Alba Cappellieri

– director of the Vicenza Jewellery

Museum and professor at Milan Polytechnic.

“Connecting the consumer with the

market is important. This sector was close

minded and traditional. Today, thanks to

the digital era, everything is connected.

What I mean by trends is vision and emotional

values, diversity of communities -

different values. Titanium is going to play

a big role with gold price skyrocketing

and it’s a more flexible metal. The way

jewellery is distributed and perceived will

also change things. The blogging world

has changed things. When you invest in

machinery, you need to think of how many

pieces of jewellery you can sell,” said


“I truly believe in culture and it is essential

in understanding not just jewellery

but the different components of jewellery.

Jewellery has a unique definition.

There are different contexts, meanings

and values related to jewellery. Right now,

authorship is the new branding. Brass

jewellery can be cheap but the value can

come from authorship and craftsmanship.

Building authorship is also a big service

for your client,” said Alba.

“I see jewellery as a form of art. For me

design is very exciting. Jewellery also connects

people. When I have a person following

me, in a way if I can inspire them

through jewellery. It’s also the emotional

value. When I post a picture of a piece of

jewellery, I do it because I love the piece

with all my heart, but when I wear a piece,

I probably think of whether it is in trend or

not,” said Katerina.

“I don’t like the word trends, I like the

Cedille frog earrings

86 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

Trade Fair

Commentary on Lab-

Grown Diamonds

Lab grown diamonds will

not compromise the position

of natural diamonds. They

will be used and interpreted

in a different way. I would

embrace lab-grown for sure

but there needs to be clarity

at the retail level

– Paola De luca

Lab grown is not sustainable

and green at all. It’s the

biggest myth. They are

interesting in terms of how

they can be used and that’s

where it stops

- Alba Cappellieri

Personally, lab grown

diamond doesn’t speak to

me. I don’t see value in it. But

then, at the end of the day

it’s about the consumer and

whether or not he or she sees

value in it

- Katerina Perez

I don’t believe in lab-grown

anything. I think it’s like GMO


- lauren Kulchinsky


Sicis Arabesque ruby ring

word moments. As a retailer, if you use

the word trends know that they can go

out anytime. You should be using words

like heritage, timeless etc, so that your

products are going to last forever. There’s

a language for every audience. Use your

imagination. Be careful when you use the

word trends because it can be detrimental

to your business,” said Lauren. Adding on

consumer experience, she said, “Only our

family takes care of our clients. Our East

Hampton location is only open 10 weeks

a year. It’s a resort experience. Our main

location is a by appointment only store. It

was a warehouse that we bought and we

created this beautiful lounge. We’ve had

bridal showers and engagement parties

there. We have been in the business from

1927 and we have evolved. I suggest anyone

in brick and mortar to have a viewing

room or change it up. Fire some clients,

and I have done it. If you think they are

not fitting in your mould then be done with

them. I have made more money like this.

Fire the customer who runs to the wholesaler

for a better price. You don’t need

them. Keep the clients who don’t mind

paying, keep them happy.


T.Evolution, the technological and innovative

soul of the show focused on the

technologies and digital methodologies

that are playing an increasingly more central

role in jewellery creation processes.

The space hosted companies from the

gold districts like Vicenza, Valenza, Arezzo

and Naples. The categories included

3D printing, workshop tools, workbench

equipment and services and products for

jewellery engineering.

It also included a full program of workshops

and technical seminars with the

most qualified experts.

With T.Evolution, Vicenzaoro makes

room for the most advanced innovations

in the industry and meets exhibitors’ and

traders’ extremely high demand for continuity

throughout the year in terms of

machinery and technologies: in predominantly

industrial terms, with the event in

January, and with focus on gold and jewelry

workshops at the September edition.

DiamonD WorlD september-october 2019 87

Trade Fair

The Jewellery

XPANDABLE by Picchiotti

The meticulous combination of

know-how and modern science has

been instrumental in the creation

of the popular and revolutionary


XPANDABLE designs incorporate

innovative technology that, ingeniously

and invisibly, solves a myriad of fit and

comfort challenges, allowing rings and

bracelets to expand and contract with

ease for comfortable, durable wear. A

vast array of bands, rings and bangles

smoothly fits all fingers and wrists,

thanks to a ground-breaking hidden

spring mechanism. The collection has

been manufactured with the utmost

care and the highest standards of perfection

for durability to give the wearer

many years of enjoyment. “We started

out with about 10-12 designs. Today

we have more than 200 with the main

PICCHIOTTI style signatures characterizing

the vast assortment. From the

extensive use of baguette-cut stones to

precious center gemstones that make

each ring an exclusive one-of-a-kind,

to stackable and colorful fashion-forward

creations, the Xpandable rings

and bracelets have been embraced all

over the world not only by women who

have fit and comfort challenges, but

also by women who appreciate freedom

from bracelet clasps and poorly fitting

rings,” says Giuseppe Picchiotti,

Founder and President of the Italianbased


Belle Époque

by Damiani

The iconic Belle

Époque necklace with

its detachable cross

is a precious tribute

to the Maison’s prestigious


with bright, colourful

princess-cut sapphires

set into a white gold


88 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

Trade Fair

Vertigo by Stephen


Vertigo is the final chapter in Webster’s

Altered Perspective trilogy and

what a dizzying edit Mr Webster has

saved for last, marrying modern design

innovation to technical materials in a

collection dominated by earrings as

the central force. Inspired by radically

modern architecture such as the new

horizons building by Melbourne based

architects; Lyons. Vertigo collection

combines strong angular lines, colour

and extreme perspective to twist reality

and create illusions of depth and


Vertigo incorporates titanium to

practically achieve the oversize

shoulder dusting, Isosceles hoops.

Other styles include the Acute hoop,

left angle stud, obtuse hoop and the

scalene hoop. Materials include,

18ct white and yellow gold, titanium.

Opaque piano black and arctic white

enamel. Round and baguette cut diamonds.

One of a kind ‘Lost Horizon,

cocktail ring and earrings. Featuring

Mauve spinel’s, grey spinel baguettes,

round colourless diamonds, 18ct white

gold. You decide which is which.

Eka Anniversario by Fope

Eka – meaning ‘one’ in Sanskrit – is a

whole new way of wearing gold bracelets.

Based on one of FOPE’s inventions

from the 1950s, it applies the concept

of flexibility to jewellery, blending

together luxury and innovation. With

its classic gold mesh design reworked

in ultra-contemporary style, Flex’it has

proved an instant global success.

DiamonD WorlD september-october 2019 89

Trade Fair

Swan Brooch by


Inspired by the very famous ballet

“SWAN LAKE” by trajkovskij,

Palmiero interprets the character of

the beautiful princess transformed into

a swan by the spell of an evil sorcerer

and much loved by Prince Siegfried.

With this jewel Carlo Palmiero

symbolically expresses the power of

love. The beauty and the strength of

the feeling that animates Odette, in

the wait to become again the beautiful

girl that she was, are evinced by the

sensual movements

of the design

Unique piece,


from a careful

handwork. It

is a brooch

with a




to be a jewel to wear


collect. A wax block is entirely handmodelled,

then decomposed into

several parts: from the wings expertly

perforated to express lightness, to

the long and sinuous neck, to the

head as realistic as possible and

then assembled and set from the

hands of expert artisans. A profound

message of love and virtuosity for this

masterpiece, on which designers and

artisans have worked continuously

for several months. Fully made of

gold and covered by almost 29 carats

of very precious white and black

diamonds and yellow sapphires, that

complete the magic of this beautiful

jewel symbol of harmony, purity and

innate elegance.

Cheriè by Chantecler Capri

Long sautoirs with

sinuous shapes, in

pearls, onyx, red

coral, white and

turquoise coral, illuminated

by finely

set diamonds, are the

protagonists of the

Cheriè Collection. The

secret of the sautoir

elegance is a wise,

imperceptible “scaling”

of the spheres,

the result of hours of selection and pairing. The synthesis

of an extraordinary manufacturing ability, able to reconcile

a unique style with reliability over time, is expressed

by the tuft of stones, tied to the Sautoir with a sphere that

incorporates a cardan joint, a small mechanism that allows

the tuft to rotate free without twisting the threads of

the necklace. The essence of the Caprese

spirit and the noblest art of Italian

jewelry. The sautoir is accompanied by

sculptural rings and earrings, which

are fun and easy to wear. Seen here is

a Sautoir in red corals and pave white

diamonds and a ring set in pink gold,

cabochon red coral and diamonds pave.

90 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

Trade Fair

Anniversary 100 by Antonini

Antonini celebrates its century-spanning history with a

significant collection in terms of both its wide and the bold

choice made in the use of materials. Faithful to its history,

which has seen the exclusive use of gold and diamonds

for the “ready to wear” collections Sergio Antonini - the

creative director of the brand - when designing the collection,

he had in mind the malleability of gold and its

most striking feature, which since antiquity and over the

centuies has made it an immediatly recognizable element:

its sheen. The pieces are crafted in yellow and white gold,

embellished with subtle waves of diamonds. Since 1919

in the heart of Milan: this is the Antonini story, a company

which for three generations has been making jewellery

with a unique and recognizable design, directly influenced

by the motivations that the city offers, architecture, design

and contemporary art, all passions that Sergio Antonini

enjoys in his daily life.

Titanium by Giovanni Ferraris

The Titanium collection is the synthesis of

luxury, volume and lightness. An equation that

Giovanni Ferraris solved in his own way, imagining

things from an alternative point of view. The

alternative is titanium, an extraordinary technological

material that is difficult to work with.

Only the craftsmanship can tame it to make original

jewels, with a featherweight and large size.

In addition to the hundreds of hours of work, the

luxury in titanium jewels is in the important carat

of diamonds and precious stones: pavé that cover

the entire surface.

DiamonD WorlD september-october 2019 91

Special Feature

Technology Talk

Why DiamonD

TesTing machines

are a priority?

With the growing demand of lab grown diamonds, it is more important now

than before to develop technology that can effectively distinguish natural

diamonds from their synthetic counterparts. Sanjana Parikh finds out about

the different diamond testing machines available in the market and how they

are helping in bringing about more transparency

DiamonD WorlD september-october 2019 93

Special Feature

Technology has permeated

through every aspect of the

jewellery business, so it’s no

surprise then that the diamond industry

too has become rather dependant

on this technology. With the sudden

increase in the volumes of synthetic

diamonds, specialized machines that

can accurately identify a natural

diamond is the need of the hour. Not

only does it give a stamp of authenticity,

it also increases the confidence of

the consumer towards brands selling

diamonds or jewellery. Various diamond

grading labs and testing companies

have introduced a number of diamond

testing machines that have interesting

features and are available for purchase

by diamond graders.

Important factors

to consIder before

SYNTHdetect by De Beers Industries Services


Some of the important aspects to

consider before purchasing a verification

instrument is types of diamonds

used i.e. size, colour, shape, and loose/

mounted as those influence the choice

of instrument. Large volumes of melee

will require different levels of automation

than small number of larger

stones, so the volume of goods plays a

key role. Some instruments require no

experience at all whereas other devices

require trained operators. So if you are

considering purchasing an advanced

instrument, you need to make sure that

you have a skilled operator who can use

it. Depending on your requirement, you

must decide if you require a portable

instrument if you operate in various locations

or test stones outside your own

premises. As with any purchase, budget

plays a key role in the final decision.

Diamond Verification Instruments

vary greatly in cost, due to several factors

and so it’s important to keep cost

in mind.

Understanding the indispensable nature

for diamond verification systems,

Diamond Producer’s Association (DPA)

has launched The ASSURE Program

which has developed a universal standard

to test the performance of Diamond

Verification Instruments in a consistent

manner. “The program delivers

ongoing testing of Diamond Verification

Instruments to ensure the trade is fully

informed of the relative performance of

the Diamond Verification Instruments

in the market. The instruments are rigorously

tested in a transparent manner

against a unique common sample and

standard. The ASSURE sample will

also evolve to include new synthetic

diamonds as they are identified. The instruments

submitted to ASSURE have

been tested in accordance with the

methods and protocols in the Diamond

Verification Instruments Standard,”

says Richa Singh, Managing Director -

India, Diamond Producers Association.

pushIng boundarIes

The Gemological Institute of India

(GIA) is the authority in diamond

J Mini by DRC Techno

94 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

Special Feature

certification and grading. GIA is investing

heavily in research and instrument

development to understand these

new materials that enter in the supply

chain, and is in a unique position to

develop instruments and services capable

of distinguishing natural diamonds

from potentially laboratory-grown and

treated diamonds. The GIA iD100®

gem testing device is a result of these

long-standing research efforts. It is

a sophisticated and easy-to-operate

desktop instrument that combines advanced

spectroscopic technology with

GIA’s 60 years of diamond and gemstone

identification research to distinguish

natural diamonds from laboratory-grown

(HPHT and CVD) diamonds

and diamond simulants. Nirupa Bhatt,

Managing Director, GIA, India and

Middle East shares, “Rapid advances

in the technology for laboratory-grown

diamonds and treatments make it crucial

that the gem and jewellery industry

has reliable methods for identifying

them. GIA is committed to continued

improvements, and the device now has

the capabilities to identify blue-togreen

and brown diamonds in addition

to diamonds in the colourless to nearcolourless

range. Additionally, a Pink

Diamond Software Upgrade now gives

DiaTrue CXL by OGI Systems

There are various devices available to the trade in the

market. One needs to check for the reliability of such

devices before using. It’s not only about the price, but

also whether the device is meeting the objective of

accurately distinguishing between natural diamond,

laboratory-grown diamond and simulant material -

nirupa Bhatt, Managing Director, GIA, India and Middle East

the instrument the ability to distinguish

natural pink diamonds from laboratorygrown

(HPHT and CVD) pink diamonds

and simulants. These two significant

improvements make proper identification

of laboratory-grown diamonds

more accessible to retailers and manufacturers

around the world by expanding

capabilities of the GIA iD100.”

Synthetic VS natural

Based in Surat, India, DRC Techno is

a non-profit company actively engaged

in research and development of technologies

and solutions for the diamond

manufacturing and jewellery industry.

Vipul Sutariya of DRC Techno says,

“Diamond testing is of utmost importance

in the current market scenario.

Let’s say if you have a brand that is 20

or 30 years old and a consumer buys a

diamond from you, and it turns out to

be a synthetic diamond, it can cause a

big problem for your brand. So if you

can provide the consumer with an authenticity

report, that proves that the

diamond is in fact a natural diamond,

it can boost consumer confidence in

your brand. Since the entire jewellery

industry is based on trust, the consumer

deserves to be well informed

and to have tested products of natural

origin. Speed, accuracy, trust and cost

effective are the main characteristics

of a diamond testing machine. One of

the main characteristics of a natural




ongoing testing

of Diamond


Instruments to ensure the

trade is fully informed of

the relative performance of

the Diamond Verification

Instruments in the market.

The instruments are

rigorously tested in a

transparent manner against a

unique common sample and


-richa Singh, Managing

Director - India, Diamond

Producers Association

Since the

entire jewellery

industry is

based on trust,

the consumer

deserves to be

well informed and to have

tested products of natural

origin. Speed, accuracy,

trust and cost effective are

the main characteristics of

a diamond testing machine

- Vipul Sutariya, DRC


DiamonD WorlD september-october 2019 95

Special Feature

Comparison Chart

De Beers

OGI Systems (DiaTrue GIA (iD100)

DRC Techno (J Mini)

Industry Services



Type of product Mounted jewellery and

loose stones

Mounted Jewellery and

loose stones

Mounted jewellery and

loose stones

Mounted jewellery and

loose stones

Size Limit 0.001 ct-100 ct All 0.005 ct + 0.003 ct +

Result Pass or Refer Diamond, Synthetic

diamond, Diamond

Pass or Refer

Diamond, Synthetic

Diamond, Refer

simulants, Suspicion

Speed 583 stones per hour Multiple stones

183 stones per hour 935 stones per hour


Operation Manual Manual Manual Semi- automatic

diamond is the nitrogen content it contains;

a natural diamond contains 98%

nitrogen. Another characteristic of a

natural diamond is the low intensity of

phosphorescence. Lab grown diamonds

tend to have heavy intensity phosphorescence


Providing advanced technological

tools for the diamond industry since

1990, OGI Systems has its presence

across Europe, Asia, USA and South

Africa. OGI Systems owner Daniel

Benzano says, “Many parcels have mix

lab grown stones and so it is imperative

that every jewellery factory should have

a testing device within its premises.

Each device is judged on three factors

namely, accuracy, user friendliness and

speed. OGI Systems’ Diatrue testing

devices can be used for different verticals.

For example, Diatrue mobile is

suitable for loose diamond testing and

small jewellery. Retail stores prefer Diatrue

CS as it helps them test both loose

diamonds and finished jewellery pieces

. For manufacturing factories and pawn

shops, Diatrue CXL is a favourite. Indian

markets prefer Diatrue A4 as it can

test larger jewellery pieces that India is

known for.”

“There are various devices available

to the trade in the market. One

needs to check for the reliability of

such devices before using. It’s not

iD100 by GIA

OGI’s Diatrue

testing devices

can be used

for different

verticals. For


Diatrue mobile is suitable

for loose diamond testing

and small jewellery. Retail

stores prefer Diatrue CS as it

helps them test both loose

diamonds and finished

jewellery pieces - Daniel

Benzano, OGI Systems

only about the price, but also whether

the device is meeting the objective

of accurately distinguishing between

natural diamond, laboratory-grown

diamond and simulant material,”

concludes Nirupa Bhatt.

96 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

Company profile

Ranchhodbhai K Detroja, Chairman &

Managing Director

Ratnakala Exports Pvt Ltd



With almost 40 years of experience in the

trade, Ratnakala Exports Pvt Ltd has garnered

trust and respect amongst its patrons

Ratnakala Exports Pvt Ltd,

under the guidance of

Ranchhodbhai K Detroja,

Chairman & Managing Director

of the Company, started Diamond

manufacturing business in 1983

with a few workers and today, the

company has grown to be the largest

manufacturer of polished diamonds.

Ranchhodbhai says, “Success of

Ratnakala can be attributed to

our customer-centric philosophy,

quality focus and hard work of our

employees.” The Company has

presently two state-of–the-art and

highly modernized manufacturing

units, both located in Gujarat at

Surat and Navsari, engaging highly

qualified personnel who look after the

manufacturing & managerial functions


Ratnakala deals in diamonds

ranging from 0.18 carats up to 2.00

carats – GIA Certified and Non-

Certified in grades of IF to I2 with

colours from D to N in Round, Heart,

Cushion, Emerald, Marquise, Oval,

Pear, Princess, Radiant, Square

Emerald and Square Radiant shapes.

Most of the production is GIA Certified

and it creates confidence among the

customers to buy, based on its report.

Ratnakala has created consistency in

assortment and quality of cutting. This

has created an immense confidence

in buyers to place repeat orders

without examining the diamonds.

They have regular buyers from all

major countries and export polished

diamonds to U.S.A., Belgium, Hong

Kong, Israel, Thailand, U.A.E. and

many other countries. Ratnakala had

earlier marketed its polished diamonds

as the largest producer of small size

98 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

Company profile

diamonds in the sieve size from -6.5 to

+2, popularly known as ‘stars’ and -2

to -0000 sieve size polished diamonds.

The company’s marketing strategies

includes participation in trade

fairs in India and abroad to display

and promote the products in the

international markets. Ratnakala also

participates in diamond buyer-seller

meets for promoting and marketing

of diamonds to end consumers. They

have launched the company website

www.ratnakala.com, which provides

information to their clients about the

company and products. They regularly

upgrade the company’s website to

make it dynamic, so that customers

from any part of the globe can view

the available stock along with the GIA

Certificate to place order 24X7.

Ratnakala has an associate

company, M. RAJESH B.V.B.A.,


ID - 105304), which exclusively

sources rough diamonds and markets

polished diamonds from Ratnakala in

European markets. M.Rajesh B.V.B.A.

also participates in international trade

fairs for promotion and sales of its

goods. They have a marketing affiliate,


KONG, (RAPNET - 107309), which

exclusively markets the goods in China

and other surrounding Countries.

Ratnakala sources its rough

diamonds directly from the mining

companies by participating in rough

diamond auctions and sourcing from

open markets internationally. They

maintain diamond tracking in terms

of carats and pieces i.e. at every

stage right from allocation of rough

diamond lots to different factories,

which has reduced production cycle

which is of great advantage to the

customers. The company has made

huge capital investments in new

technologies such as Laser Machines,

Sarin Planners, Maxi Cut machines,

Four-P Laser Machines, Automatic

Polishing Machines and Galaxy Ultra

Machine for obtaining more yield,

better symmetry, reduction of cost and

increasing productivity.

visit: www.https://www.ratnakala.com/

DiamonD WorlD september-october 2019 99

Special Feature

Downsizing and dialing back

Are Online StOreS the

next DeStinAtiOn fOr

luxury retAil BAnDS?

The global economic slowdown has led to major downsizing in the luxury retail

space with several brands shutting shop. However, there’s no better time for the

online arm of luxury brands to flex their muscles says Sanjana Parikh

100 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

Special Feature

The luxury retail segment is

undergoing a massive slowdown

as renowned brands like BCBG

Max Azria, Diesel, Roberto Cavalli and

many more have folded; shutting down

their brick and mortar stores across

cities. The latest brand to fall prey to

this global domino effect is the iconic

American brand Barneys New York, as

it filed for chapter 11 bankruptcy, which

allows the brand to continue operating

while it executes a reorganization plan.

CEO Daniella Vitale cited the changing

retail environment, sky high rent

structures along with muted demand

from consumers led to its fall.

According to reports, Goldman Sachs

dropped its 2019 forecast for luxury industry

sales growth from its previous 7

per cent to 5 per cent. Another survey

by J.P. Morgan concluded that according

to ultra high net worth investors i.e.

those with more than $30 million in liquid

financial assets 75 per cent expect

a recession to hit the U.S. by 2020. In

a video to company employees, Gucci

CEO Marco Bizzarri, revealed that the

good times won’t last in spite of the

brand being one of the fastest growing

legacy luxury brands in the world.

The U.S. has the heaviest concentration

of millionaires by far, with 41 per

cent of the world’s millionaires or 17.4

Goldman Sachs

dropped its 2019

forecast for luxury

industry sales

growth from its

previous 7 per cent

to 5 per cent

DiamonD WorlD september-october 2019 101

Special Feature

Privacy and security

have become the

new keywords that

now define well

bred individuals

which makes it

even more difficult

for luxury brands

to establish a

connection with


million living in the country. The most

prosperous countries are China with

3.5 million millionaires, Japan 2.8 million

and the UK 2.4 million. Capgemini

defines the High Net worth Individual

(HNWI) as those with investible assets

of $1 million or more, excluding primary

residence, collectibles, consumables

and consumer durables.

A CAutionAry tAle

However, changing cultural tides have

posed a serious threat to luxury retailers.

As the rich get richer, there is a

glaring divide between the rich and

poor across the globe. There is rising

resentment amongst the general masses

at this unfair wealth distribution and

growing anxiety amongst the wealthy as

evident by the situation in France.

Protests sparked against the wealthy

elite in Paris by working and middle

classes who donned yellow coloured

vests as part of their uniform, giving it

its name Yellow-Vest protests. French

102 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

Special Feature

President Emmanuel Macron’s is widely

regarded as the President of the rich

as rising fuel prices and high cost of living

has led to disproportionate burden

of the government’s tax reforms, which

fall on the working and middle classes

in the country. This backlash against

the well healed French citizens has

majorly impacted luxury retail sales as

the industry has seen a decline of 20

percent to 40 percent in the past year.

Redefining LuxuRy

Luxury is no longer only defined by

sparkling diamonds or flashy cars. Instead,

new age millionaires prefer to

live a more subdued and low-key existence.

Privacy and security have become

the new keywords that now define

well bred individuals which makes it

even more difficult for luxury brands to

establish a connection with them. The

rise of conscious and mindful spending

on experiences rather than products

has put luxury retail brands on the

back foot. The diamond industry has

undergone a major upheaval in the past

few years as millenials are choosing to

spend their hard earned money on expensive

gadgets, travel and other unusual

experiences rather than a piece

of jewellery.

digitaL deLuge

For the longest time luxury brands

The U.S. has the

heaviest concentration

of millionaires by far,

with 41 per cent of the

world’s millionaires or

17.4 million living in the


DiamonD WorlD september-october 2019 103

Special Feature

Luxury goods sales are

growing nearly threetimes

faster online than in

physical retail, at 14% as

compared with traditional

retail at 5%. A Consumer

Insight Report published

by Deloitte reveals that

millenials, which account

for 83.1 million people,

have made the switch to

online shopping

have shied away from adopting digital

platforms to push sales. Instead they

opted for prime location stores in some

of the most cosmopolitan international

cities, state of the art fixtures and fittings

which added to the grandeur and

opulence of the brand along with ample

number of sales staff to assist customers.

However, the digital deluge has

spared no one, and luxury brands are

no exception. With most consumers

preferring the convenience of online

sales, luxury brands are doing their

level best to catch up. Euromonitor International

published a report that said

luxury goods sales are growing nearly

three-times faster online than in physical

retail, at 14 percent as compared

with traditional retail at 5 percent.

There has been a significant shift

from in store sales to online sales with

each brand offering e-commerce services

through their respective websites.

LVMH, parent company of world renowned

handbag brand Louis Vuitton,

launched its own multi-brand website

known as 24 Sevres while maintaining

separate websites for its house brands.

Barneys too was able to expand its online

sales to $200 million from $18 million

since February 2017.

With the emergence of multi brand

platforms like Shopbob, Moda Operandi

and Net-a-Porter, high end brands

prefer to showcase their products as

it eliminates overhead costs while directly

targeting their consumers. A

Consumer Insight Report published by

Deloitte reveals that millenials, which

account for 83.1 million people, have

made the switch to online shopping.

104 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

The Rock rock Talk








Pantone’s Autumn-Winter colour palette is a veritable feast of

robust colours that remind us of thickets, autumnal leaves, blue

sky and more. Here are breathtaking pieces of jewellery that

transports us to a world of wonderful hues

DiamonD WorlD september-october 2019 105

The rock Rock Talk

Vram moonstone ring

Munnu The Gem Palace sapphire, moonstone &

diamond flower ring

Cartier Belle Epoque moonstone,

sapphire and diamond plaque

brooch, circa 1915

Arunashi blue


sugarloaf ring


Once in a Blue Moon

Pantone claims that this is a colour of “quiet resolve”.

Frosty shades with a hint of blue exude calm and

serenity. We found moonstone best captures this cool

and tranquil vibe

Arunashi moonstone ring

Fabio Salini moonstone

navette earrings

Nicholas Varney diamond, moonstone, fire opal &

gold ventoux bracelet cuff

Sylvie Corbelin carved

moonstone ring

Dana Rebecca Designs moonstone

ring In 14K rose gold

Cartier high jewellery watch in white gold, quartz,

sapphire, chalcedony, jade, moonstone and diamonds

Colette pearl and moonstone jewellery

Nicholas Varney pear shaped blue moonstone,

K2 blue granite ear clips

106 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

The Rock Talk

Stephen Webster Murder She Wrote Lady

Macbeth ring

Julia Lloyd George rhodolite

garnet ring

Chaumet ‘Aria Passionata’

ring in rhodolite garnets

and red tourmalines with


Biking Red

Bold & Passionate

Full of passion, this bold colour made us think of all the

gorgeous pieces crafted in exquisite rhodolite garnet. From

Chaumet to maverick jewellery designer Stephen Webster,

this stone has been a favourite for many a brand

Pamela Huizenga18K gold earrings with

fossilized coral, trilobite fossil, rhodolite

garnet, and diamond frames

Boucheron serpent bohème pendant


Chaumet Est une fête Aria Passionata rhodolite

garnet bracelet

Tessa Packard puzzle

rhodolite garnet earrings

Sylvie Corbelin earrings

DiamonD WorlD september-october 2019 107

The rock Rock Talk

Fabio Salini

amethyst cabochon

and leather ring

Fred Leighton amethyst & gold

cannetille pendant earrings

Avakian Joker



Noor Fares





Mauve Magic

This muted mauve shade reminds us of vast lavender fields

and nothing quite captures its allure as much as amethysts

Bounkit amethyst and

sky blue quartz cuff

Naeem Khan amethyst and mother

of pearl chandelier earrings

Bounkit faceted

amethyst necklace

Renee Lewis 18k gold

amethyst earrings

Nicholas Varney

platform ring

Simon Teakle antique

amethyst necklace

Verdura Byzantine

riviere amethyst


De Grisogono melody of

colours amethyst ring

108 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

The Rock rock Talk

Anabela Chan


Forest Biome

In the Wilderness

Greenery and wilderness have remained a constant source of

inspiration for jewellers. This forest green shade cannot be

expressed better than rich, stately emeralds

Amrapali gold flower drop

earrings with diamond, ruby,


Anabela Chan m’o

exclusive emerald

cinderella ring

Amrapali gold ring with

diamond & emerald

VBH sugar loaf cabochon emerald ring

Martin Katz ring

Bayco emerald &

diamond ring

Saboo 18K white gold, emerald,

tsavorite, opal and diamond ring

Arunashi carved emerald and opal

infinity earrings

Martin Katz carved

emerald earrings

Bussati emerald ring

DiamonD WorlD september-october 2019 109

The rock Rock Talk

Wendy Yue

18K rose gold,

coral, sapphire,



tsavorite, ruby

and diamond ring

Carole Tanenbaum Vintage Kenneth

Jay Lane coral drop earrings

Peach Pink

Oh So Peachy!

Subtle, minimalist and feminine, this pretty shade

evokes a pleasant feeling. Pink opals and corals in

lighter shades fit the bill seamlessly

Casa Castro peach quartzite

coral earrings

Anabela Chan opal coral earrings

Simon Teakle for Moda Operandi

vintage Van Cleef and Arpels earrings

featuring a blush-pink rose quartz

Renee Lewis antique rose quartz,

moonstone, pink agate, kunzite,

quartz, angelskin coral earrings

Eleuteri detachable coral earrings

Sutra Pink opal &

diamonds earrings

David Webb

crossover ring

Eden Presley giving tree

flower vine earrings

110 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

nation notes


A SpaniSh Sojourn

a country known for siesta and salsa, Spain is a market brimming with

high end luxury jewellers and a considerably sized diamond industry. With

revenues touching $2,925 million in 2019, Spain is an important market in

gems and jewellery industry

112 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

nation notes

Intensely passionate and devoted to

living the good life, the European

country of Spain is no stranger

to luxury. Spain, with a GDP of $1.3

trillion and a population of 46.6 million

people, is the fourth-largest economy

in the Eurozone. Spain’s economy grew

2.6 per cent in 2018, exceeding the

Eurozone average. Forecasts for the

next several years suggest GDP growth

of 2.1 per cent in 2019 and 1.9 per

cent in 2020. As the economy recovers,

rising employment and disposable

incomes suggest that Spaniards are

spoiling themselves. This is resulting

in the growing importance of impulse

consumption, thereby increasing

consumption of high end gemstone and

diamond studded jewellery pieces.

Political tensions between Spain’s

central government and the Catalonia

region remain high, stoked by the unconstitutional

October 2017 independence

referendum. However, there has

been little to no negative impact for

U.S. companies exporting to Spain and

Catalonia remains one of the principal

economic regions within Spain.

SpaniSh Speciality

Spain plays a major role in the European

jewellery sector. It is the fourth

largest manufacturer behind Italy,

Britain and Switzerland, with an estimated

turnover of €1.5 billion. According

to analysts, Spain has a series of

key competitive advantages, including

premium quality, a largely handcrafted

production process, a highly skilled

workforce and the ability to offer a wide

range of products.

While Spain may not have any large

scale mines for diamonds or precious

gemstones, it is home to one of the rarest

and coveted gemstones, Sphalerite

can be found in the mines of Spain. It

has often been described as a gemstone

with a “fire” that exceeds diamond. The

reddish orange hues of the stone make

it an exceptional stone, but due to its

low hardness rating on the Mohs scale,

it is a poor choice for jewellery pieces.

This is why it has been described as a

‘collector’s stone’

FactS & FigureS

The business structure in Spain includes

some 3,800 factories, most of

which are small workshops with less

than five employees. Just under 10

per cent of companies operating in the

market have a workforce of more than

ten. Spain has a number of major production

locations. Córdoba specialises

in small items, period jewellery in the

DiamonD WorlD september-october 2019 113

nation notes

Spanish exports are

highly concentrated,

with just ten countries

accounting for 82 %

of the total exports.

Switzerland is Spain’s

top client with exports

worth €141.5 million and

a 26.8 per cent share of

the export total

with 10.9 per cent, Hong Kong with 6.6

per cent and Portugal with 6.4 per cent.

Isabelline style, gold and silverware.

Valencia is positioned in the mid-high

jewellery segment. Madrid produces

primarily top-end jewellery and gold

watches while Barcelona makes topend

and modernist jewellery.

Spanish exports are highly concentrated,

with just ten countries accounting

for 82 per cent of the total exports.

Switzerland is Spain’s top client with

exports worth €141.5 million and a

26.8 per cent share of the export total.

France has been ranked second, with

13.5 per cent, followed by the USA,

The ArT of Jewellery


Spanish jewellery design is synonymous

with quality, design and originality,

and every bit as good as the most

coveted international brands. According

to statistics published by the Spanish

Foreign Trade Institute (ICEX),

Spain’s export earnings totaled €528.1

million, of which jewellery, gold and

silver exports accounted for €308.4

million and watches €219.7 million.

The results have been very positive,

with jewellery and watch exports growing

by 46.5 per cent. Particularly spectacular

was the rise in jewellery, gold

and silver exports in 2010, up 70 per

cent on the previous year. Watch exports

have also shown growth at 22.6

per cent. These figures demonstrate the

buoyancy of Spanish design and the

enterprising spirit of business leaders

who have recognized that globalization

is the best way to compete in a global


114 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

Design stuDio

Ring front side

Seven Princess Collection - The

Seven Pavilions

Alessio Boschi



Designer extraordinaire Alessio Boschi believes in no

boundaries when it comes to creating. From pieces that

address climate change to those that celebrate his Roman

heritage, he wants his jewellery to remain meaningful and

unforgettable finds out Vijetha Rangabashyam

Alessio Boschi hasn’t lived in

Italy in over 24 years. He

grabs hold of any opportunity

that reminds him of his roots and

hence, for him, participating in

Vicenzaoro is a no-brainer. “It’s my

chance to come back home. The

fair is becoming more elegant and

interesting every year, they are doing

it in the right way by promoting it well,

professionally and by fulfilling the

gaps that weren’t met by the previous

management of the Basel Fair,

especially when it comes to flexibility

and servicing the exhibitors and also

by charging them correctly,” he says.

When I met him there, he was a busy

man. He was kind enough, though,

to show me a masterpiece, a Persian

inspired turquoise ring, with a 10ct

carved emerald center that magically

unfolds into a string of 7 enameled

carpets when opened. Each carpet

has a different engraving and design

matching each of the seven provinces

and their distinctive aesthetic. I was

awestruck at once. We couldn’t really

talk beyond that at the show but as

DiamonD WorlD september-october 2019 115

Design stuDio

promised, he spoke to me

over Skype, on returning

to Bangkok, after

having attended a rather

productive September

Fair in Hong Kong, where

he also won an award for his

Leonidas man set, crafted in

silver, set diamond chains in antique

style with inserts in 18kt rose gold and

Tahitian keshis and circled pearls.

Alessio is a self-confessed

maverick, not just when it comes to

his designs but also socially. “Hong

Kong was great. I bought some

exceptional pearls, which are very

rare, especially a purplish one from

a scallop called Lion’s Paw pearl.

But for me, fairs are not working

like they used to. The traditional

way of approaching customers is

changing dramatically,” he says.

Alessio is also very circumspect

about media and reportage nowadays.

“I don’t really trust what is being

said and spread by the media these

days. In the industry there is a

misunderstanding that lab created

diamonds are sustainable and this is

the biggest lie to please and hide the

interests of companies backing this

product, and these companies are at

the same time manufacturing testing

machineries to detect these synthetic

diamonds, which are created by

using chemicals in high temperature

physical conditions in their labs, both

of which are much more hazardous

than excavating natural diamonds from

the mines. There is an underground

movement which is not transparent, for

example, jewellery or fashion bloggers

are supposed to promote and enlighten

us about the so called “trends” are in

Homage to Renaissance necklace & earrings with pearls and rubellites

and a stunning demonstration of micro mosaic painting

reality just serving their customers and

brands, which are paying them to be

more visible in the market. Another

big example is what’s happening

between HK and China, which has

being manipulated by some other

countries, let’s just leave it at that,” he


Originally from Rome, Alessio has

lived and worked in Italy, Greece,

France and Australia, before he moved

to Bangkok. His eponymous brand

has become well known for its highly

detailed, intricately engineered pieces

of jewellery in a span of six years.

Being in Bangkok, Alessio is part of a

culture that is diametrically opposite

to Italian. “The Thai people are very

shy, they are not very demanding and

certainly not confrontational, and

Italians on the other hand are too

curious, intensely passionate and very

opinionated. They want to interfere

in everything. I miss Italy now more

than before. Despite how much I like

Thailand and the humble attitude

of Thai people, I really miss the

animated way of communication by the

Europeans, in particular the Italians,

with whom I feel more familiar.” So

he visits his home in Italy that he

bought in a medieval village a few

years ago to unwind, which he says has

become increasingly important for his

wellbeing. It is situated in a fairytale

village called Bagnoregio, two hours

north from Rome near Tuscany, where

he creatively recharges himself after

running for months to attend shows

and events in various cities worldwide.

Alessio wants everything to be

perfect – if you have one good look

at his jewels, you’ll understand why.

“I am very nervous when I work and

when something is not perfect, it

drives me insane. It is not easy to be

116 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

Design stuDio

around me at that time. I admit that I

am challenging but I want to pursue

excellence and only with this aim

and with this dream, I can get good


Alessio always wanted to go to

art school but his mother told him to

get his fundamentals in place first.

“I thank my mother for that because

when I later joined art, I realised I

was able to grasp things quicker than

the others.” Later, when he decided

first to apply to a fashion school, his

friends intervened. “They asked me

why I am choosing fashion when I

stop at every single jewellery store

in Rome.” Within a matter of weeks,

he bought books and magazines on

jewellery and something inside him

changed, there was an inner discovery.

So, he decided to shift from fashion

to jewellery. Alessio is a man of

pride, rightfully so – he takes pride

in his heritage, in his designs and

he admits that he has always been

good at what he does, right from his

college days. Most people in his ranks

are not modest. But when he talks

about jewellery or how good he is at

making them, you don’t get the sense

that he’s being conceited, but you do

realise that jewellery is something

this man was born to do. When he

was seven years old his mother took

him to Greece on a holiday. He was

Narcissus Bridge Ring

at a museum in Athens and witnessed

Philip’s treasure, Alexander the

Great’s father jewellery. “My mom

told me she couldn’t pull me away

from the glass cases. That was when

I fell in love with the sparkle of gold,

the engravings and all the beautiful

carvings. My forefathers were painters

and architects during the 17th

century and more than religion and

politics, I believe in reincarnation and

energies.... so, I think something is

still there running in my blood and in

my DNA!”

Alessio believes in the

Peacock’s Dream Ring

metaphysical. He tells me, you are an

Indian, so you will understand and

continues, “I have been told, more

than once that I am a reincarnation

of a Greek sculptor, a very old soul

passing through the classical period.

I have been told that both men and

women were in love with me fascinated

by my art. I even know who but I won’t

say because it is a little pretentious,”

he smiles. It’s not a wonder then why

his jewellery is also transformative

in nature. With Alessio, more often

than not, what you see is not what you

get – you always get something more.

An orchid in a necklace has to live

multiple lives, serve many purposes,

as a pair of earrings, a pendant or a

brooch for it to be Alessio’s. Everybody

looks to nature for inspiration, but for

Alessio it has been a guiding force

constantly. Nature was his safe place

during his turbulent childhood, during

the separation of his parents. Nature

was his cocoon and today he pays his

homage to nature with his jewels. He

takes cues from natural phenomena

jewellers normally don’t think about,

at times even anomalies. My favourite

from his Naturalia collection is the

Melting Arctic ring. It is a powerful

piece that addresses climate change

with technical mastery. A natural white

topaz is carved to look like a melting

glacier. On opening (which is a blue

DiamonD WorlD september-october 2019 117

Design stuDio

moonstone cabochon that looks like a

drop of water) there is a pool of dark

blue lapis lazuli with a layer of white

carved quartz to look like the little

waves of the deep arctic waters. The

scene is surrounded by tiny Paraíba

tourmalines and diamonds. Inside,

there is a poignant moment, a mother

polar bear being detached from her

cubs on a pair of druzy quartz carved

to look like melting ice patches. The

bears are carved out of tagua nuts or

vegetable ivory.

His brand has come to be known

for its jewels that are conversational

pieces, theatrical and unconventional

in their demeanour. But Alessio hates

the word brand. “I am so tired of

this word. Everybody is a brand now.

Everything is a brand now. I wish there

was a word that was less pretentious.

I am not pretentious and I never

want to be so. We need to change this

perception that artists and creative

people are or could be pretentious

or are justified to have a bad and

sometime unbearable behavior just

because they are creating something.

On the contrary, I think that

“humility” is the key of success. A

brand also means being structural and

everything about structure and rigid

politics and hierarchy scares me.”

Alessio likes to use the word “precious

journey” instead of brand, which he

claims is whimsical. “Of course I care

whether people buy my jewellery or

not, but I want them to remember me

and my creations for something. I want

to create that emotional connection

between audience and my pieces, an

unspoken subtle liaison, an invisible

dialogue which will remain cemented

in people’s soul and memory.”

The usage of colours is very

important to Alessio. In his previous

experiences in Australia, he was in

charge of coming out with collections

by using gemstones that would

enhance the multiple hues of pearls

in shades ranging from champagne to

golden, silvery blue or pinkish tones

and Tahitian pearls that come in pitch

black to peacock, aubergine, reddish

and greenish hues. “I believe colour

is everything in life. It is passion –

you don’t have the same mood in the

afternoon that you experience in the

evening.” Movement is also an integral

part of Alessio’s jewellery and the

ergonomic quality lends his pieces a

more high-end appeal. “The movement

of the jewellery follows the movement

of the body. They become timeless

and the stones are inclined to sparkle

more with movement.” You can’t take

the Roman out of Alessio and hidden

elements that are bound to surprise

the onlooker are one of his signature

techniques. “It’s in my blood. You walk

through a tiny street in Rome and you

end up in a grand piazza, everything

Melting Arctic ring

built during the Baroque period was

so dramatic.” And for him it is the

ludic characteristic of jewellery that

is most interesting, which is why he

makes some of them multifunctional.

“A woman needs to play with her

jewellery. She needs to be amused,

she needs to interact with her precious

jewels. She needs to wear the surprise

and enjoy herself.”

Every piece is a story and the

story is the soul of his pieces. In

one of his earlier works, ‘Homage

to Renaissance’ he narrates the

story of Florence, the birthplace

of Renaissance by demonstrating

astounding micro-mosaic technique

with a smattering of pearls and

rubellites. The strands of pearls and

rubellite beads feature a locket with

a micro-mosaic painting of Duomo di

Firenze (Cathedral of Florence) and

Caterina de’ Medici. The earrings are a

pair of lockets and when opened, they

unleash a micro-mosaic painting of

Michelangelo’s David on one side and

the Coat of Arms of Florence on the

other. This obsession, to create pieces

118 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

Design stuDio

with painstaking artistry

is very characteristic of

Italian creations. “We

are at the centre of

the Mediterranean.

Our DNA is mixed

– we have Spanish,

Greek, German,

French, English,

Slavic, Arab, Persian and

Phoenician and so many

other genes in our DNA.

If you know a little bit of

anthropology, you will understand

that when so many cultures come

together, amazing things happen. This

is why we love studying details so


His love affair with Persia is also

something that is evident in his pieces

and the next one will be a book in

the form of a ring. The cover of the

book is created by one of the biggest

engravers in Italy, Massimiliano, who

works for a luxury maison and is well

known for his signature “Ramage”

technique. The ring will be finished

by an Armenian manufacturer who

Alessio claims is a genius goldsmith.

He is also working with a Venetian

family to create a series of miniature

princesses painted and enameled,

which in turn will go inside the pages

of a locked hidden book. The holding

of this book with a little tassel of seed

pearls is done by an Indian company

in Jaipur known for its meena

technique of inlayed flakes of rubies.

The turquoise for the book is sourced

from the best mines of Iran and the

mother of pearl from Australian shells.

“This is the most interesting part of

what I do. I use the best craftsmanship

and artists from all over the world.

Rose de France


The Maharajah Frescoes Earrings

I feel like an orchestra

director, coordinating

my creativity and know

how with these craftsmen

to create a beautiful

symphony.” Alessio believes

in the whole, in his team,

in the coming together

of creativity. It will take

almost six months for Alessio

to finish making this book ring

and at any given time, he works

with almost 30 craftsmen.

“Now, I am working with a young

and talented Persian designer Shayan

and a great teacher and model maker

Bahman, to create a ring about

the fascinating philosophy behind

Sufi, and it will fit perfectly in my

collection. I also feel the responsibility

to pass my knowledge to new

generations and to help those young

and talented people to start their own

journey.” While Alessio is working on

other pieces of the Seven Princesses

collection, he wants to create pieces

that are more artistic, complicated and

challenging. How can his jewellery

possibly be more of all those things? I

really can’t wait to find out.

DiamonD WorlD september-october 2019 119

Stone talk


Spinel is irresistible: it comes in many colours including a rare vivid red colour

that rivals ruby. In fact, many of the famous “rubies” of history are actually spinel.

Burmese lore says spinel crystals were “polished by the spirits” because they are

often such a beautiful shape.

It is known to be a symbol of power, victory and new hope.


Spinel comes in a range of hues – orange, intense red,

pastel to vibrant pink, all shades of purple, blue and violet

through bluish green. Traces of chromium cause intense

red and pink colours. Orange and purple are caused by a

mixture of chromium and iron. The presence of iron creates

violet to blue spinel, but if cobalt is present too, it can

produce a rare, saturated blue colour.

©GIA 2019. GIA®, the GIA logo and Gemological Institute of America® are registered trademarks of Gemological Institute of America, Inc.

120 september-october 2019 DiamonD WorlD

Stone talk


Lighter colours of spinel are usually relatively free of

inclusions. Saturated reds and blues are rare and sometimes

included. Some spinel has interesting inclusions that refl

ect the gem’s octahedral crystal growth. Groups of these

microscopic inclusions can resemble human fi ngerprints.


Some spinel may be heat treated to improve clarity, but it is

a stable treatment. In rare cases, spinel may also be fracture

fi lled to improve its apparent clarity.


Fine large red spinel crystals, historically referred to as

“Balas rubies,” were mined in central and southeast Asia.

Key mining locations are Myanmar (formerly known

as Burma), Tajikistan, Sri Lanka, Vietnam, Tanzania and


To learn more about spinel and other popular gemstones

visit GIA.edu/gem-encyclopedia

This article is provided by GIA (Gemological Institute of America ® ).


Butterfly Image Courtesy of: Courtesy of Bernadine Johnston and Buzz Gray

Learn More About GIA Education Programmes and Laboratory Services in India

GIAindia.in Email: labindia@gia.edu Email: eduindia@gia.edu

DiamonD WorlD september-october 2019 121

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