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Issue 3 2019

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ingredients<br />

31<br />

The mainstreaming of ingestible Demand for natural beauty<br />

skincare<br />

products is not confined to North<br />

America. In the UK, the certified<br />

In 2017, Lycored published<br />

organic and natural beauty<br />

‘Beyond Skin Deep’, an<br />

market grew by 14% in 2018,<br />

exploration of consumers’ deepest<br />

well above the level of growth<br />

held attitudes towards skin health<br />

in the country’s wider wellbeing<br />

and beauty. One of the report’s<br />

market.<br />

key findings was that ingestible<br />

8 Meanwhile, Asia’s share<br />

of the global natural cosmetics<br />

skincare had firmly established<br />

market is predicted to rise.<br />

itself as a mainstream category.<br />

9<br />

The research that underpinned Furthermore, the tendency<br />

the report found that two thirds to prefer natural skin care<br />

of consumers saw the idea of products skews towards<br />

taking a supplement for skin younger consumers, which is<br />

health or beauty as normal, while expected to lead to increased<br />

43% of millennials had used an consumer demand. 5 In 2017,<br />

oral product to benefit their skin 43% of American facial product<br />

health at some point.<br />

users aged between 18 and<br />

34 had used skincare products<br />

New developments in beauty<br />

containing natural ingredients.<br />

and skincare markets<br />

10<br />

Other research shows that the<br />

Since we published ‘Beyond percentage of consumers who<br />

Skin Deep’, ingestible skincare purchase organic or natural<br />

has continued to flourish, both beauty or personal care products<br />

in established markets such as decreases with age. Among<br />

Asia, and newer ones such as the Generation Z, the figure is 73%,<br />

Americas.<br />

dropping to 70% for millennials,<br />

Nutrition Business Journal<br />

67% for Generation X, and 61%<br />

identified beauty-from-within as for baby boomers. 6<br />

a top dietary supplement product<br />

trend for <strong>2019</strong> and predicted that<br />

the category could be worth more At Lycored, we<br />

than $1 billion by 2020. 2 A focus set out to explore<br />

on skin wellness via supplements<br />

how consumers<br />

was also a consistent theme in<br />

understand it, what<br />

consumer-facing articles on key<br />

skincare trends for <strong>2019</strong> 3 , with they see as the<br />

one remarking that ingestible most effective way<br />

beauty supplements had “turned to achieve it and,<br />

morning smoothies into legitimate more broadly, which<br />

skincare products.” 4<br />

skincare goals are<br />

Meanwhile, in the two years since most important to<br />

‘Beyond Skin Deep’, other trends<br />

them.<br />

in beauty and skincare markets<br />

have gained importance:<br />

It is clear that the beauty<br />

1. The importance of naturality<br />

industry has responded to<br />

Research has shown that one in the growing call for naturality.<br />

every two (50%) American skin Names of new brands that<br />

care consumers want products launched in 2018 included ‘Love,<br />

that are all-natural or free from Beauty & Planet’, ‘Nature Box’,<br />

synthetic chemicals 5 , with 68% ‘Seed Phytonutrients’, and ‘La<br />

buying at least some natural or Provençale Bio’. Retailers such<br />

organic products. 6 Reflecting that, as Space NK have devoted<br />

US sales of ‘natural’ personal shelf space to products that are<br />

care and beauty products were free from undesirable chemical<br />

worth more than $1.5billion in ingredients. 11 Increasing numbers<br />

2017. 7 of brands, including big ones<br />

like L’Oreal Garnier, have<br />

applied for accreditation, such<br />

as Soil Association COSMOS<br />

certification, that allows them to<br />

display their natural credentials.<br />

The number of products in Europe<br />

with COSMOS organic or natural<br />

certification doubled in 2018 to<br />

10,000. 12<br />

2. Blurring boundaries<br />

The underlying reason for the<br />

growth of ingestible skincare<br />

is that boundaries between<br />

health and beauty are blurring,<br />

with consumers adopting an<br />

increasingly holistic approach.<br />

One commentator calls the trend<br />

‘essentially ‘360 degree’ beauty –<br />

focussing as much on what we put<br />

in our bodies as on them’, noting<br />

that “Consumers today are much<br />

more aware of the links between<br />

inner balance and wellbeing and<br />

the positive effect that has on<br />

external beauty.” 13<br />

Another boundary that is<br />

becoming less distinct is the one<br />

between food and supplements.<br />

In a trend that Mintel calls<br />

‘Gastronomia’, more and more<br />

skincare products contain<br />

food ingredients. The research<br />

company identifies a “surge of<br />

face and neck care launches in<br />

the UK and the US that mention<br />

food” and notes that consumers<br />

who ‘have already switched on to<br />

‘inside out’ beauty will be more<br />

ready to accept the ‘outsidein’<br />

beauty potential of using<br />

nutritious food ingredients in<br />

facial skincare.’ 14<br />

3. Holistic regimens<br />

The mainstreaming of beautyfrom-within<br />

has resulted in a new<br />

phenomenon – the combination<br />

of topicals and ingestibles as part<br />

of a holistic strategy. At Lycored,<br />

we are increasingly approached<br />

by companies seeking to add<br />

ingestible products to their topical<br />

ranges.<br />

Many have taken the holistic<br />

approach a step further, creating<br />

combinations of ingestibles,<br />

serums, masks, and even medical<br />

www.foodmagazine.eu.com issue three <strong>2019</strong>

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