Scottish Bothy Walks - 28 best bothy adventures

WALK 2 Beinn Leòid from Kylestrome visiting Glendhu & Glencoul
the Abhainn a’ Ghlinne Dhuibh via a solidly built
vehicle bridge, and ascend steadily below the
bluffs of Cnoc a’ Mhadaidh, following the path as
it contours up towards the exposed upland moor.
Once across Allt Poll a’ Mhadaidh, which can
be an obstacle in times of spate, the track rises
more steeply before coming to an abrupt halt at a
rather incongruously placed wooden bridge, lost
in the midst of its grand surroundings.
5 Now steel yourself for a battle through the
peat hags and bog, before reaching more solid
ground on the slopes of Sàil na Slataich. With
some relief, the pace quickens over the gently
slanting slabs to the high point of 652m. Up ahead
Beinn Leòid rises serenely, guarded by a steep
boulder field. Clamber through the rocks and onto
the summit plateau where a stunning 360-degree
panorama opens up. Looking back north, the
shattered quartzite slopes of Arkle and Foinaven
dominate the scene, and to the east the silvery
outline of Loch Shin slips away to the horizon.
The complex coires of Quinag take centre stage
to the west and Ben More Assynt and Conival
rear up to the south, while the tops of Suilven and
Canisp are just visible above the whaleback ridge
of Beinn Uidhe. And as far as the eye can see, an
abundance of lochans sparkle in the sunshine.
6 Reluctantly retreating from the summit,
descend to the Bealach Beinn Leòid, quickly
crossing another unnamed top, before picking
your way down to the outflow of Lochan Druim
nam Eithreag. Hop across the channel, and a
few hundred yards further south, look out for an
All Terrain Vehicle track that isn’t marked on the
map and seems to materialise out of thin air. It
takes a considered diagonal line down through
the crags above Loch an Eircill, onto another wellmaintained
stalkers’ path. 7 After the intensity
of crossing the open moorland, it is a relief to be
able to relax and just follow the track down to
Loch Glencoul and Glencoul Bothy, tucked away
inland from the rocky shore. As you approach
sea level again, the impressive crags of the Stack
of Glencoul, unseen from a higher altitude,
are revealed. Suppress any urge to scramble
up to the precarious summit because there is
still a long way to go to reach the sanctuary of
Glendhu Bothy. After a steep final descent, the
path crosses the Glencoul River via a vehicle
bridge and reaches the lochside, where you
are treated to another fabulous vista. Glencoul
Bothy, a curious extension to the main house
built by the Reay Forest Estate, lies above a ring
of sculpted islands. From the door you look down
the length of the deep fjord towards Unapool
and the satellite peaks of Quinag. Here the Elliots
raised their five sons, initially using the bothy as a
schoolhouse. A memorial cross to the two eldest
boys who perished in World War I stands on a
knoll just above the house. It was financed by the
estate owner, the Duke of Westminster.
8 After a quick pit stop, a fabulous little
section of the Cape Wrath Trail offers an
unforgettable finale to the walk, contouring
round the headland of Aird da Loch and down
to the head of Loch Glendhu. Cross back over
the Glencoul River, and take the path to the
left, which rises steadily above the loch, past
a newly fenced area of saplings. As you gain
height, there is a superb view back to the bothy,
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