Sundowner Magazine: Spring/Summer 2020

Peru
FIVE WAYS
Lima, the Sacred Valley, and Machu Picchu are Peru at its most iconic. Their myriad attractions include
a vibrant culture, a heritage of Incan ruins, a rich ethnic diversity, world-renowned food scene, and
gorgeous guesthouses, along with exceptional artisan-made goods. But it’s the legacy of the country’s
complex history and its welcoming spirit that linger, discovers first-time visitor, A&K’s Faye Hoskins
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FOR ESCAPISTS
Moray and Maras are often referred to as Peru’s hidden gems.
The beautiful circular Inca terraces of Moray are located 3,500
metres above sea level and off the tourist trail. Built from stone
and in immaculate condition, Moray was believed to have been an
experimentation space in which Incas could test various crops at
different levels (each layer has its own microclimate). Alternative
theories suggest it was the site of a water temple. Whatever
happened in this amphitheatre-like site, spend time walking
around the huge earthen bowl before moving onto Maras. On
a hillside, near the town of Maras, are thousands of pre-Incan
salt pools (pictured left, each now owned by local families),
from which Peru’s famous pink salt is harvested. This trek yields
spectacular rewards in terms of views, Instagram opportunities,
and encounters with locals – not to mention salty snacks.
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A&K EXPERIENCE: Explore Chinchero, Maras and Moray
FOR FOODIES
Peru’s capital, Lima, is South America’s culinary capital. Lima’s
food scene is diverse – the result of Incan heritage, Spanish
influence, and Japanese immigration – but the cuisine produced
is always big on flavour and driven by sustainability. Three of the
city’s eateries – Central, Maido, and Astrid y Gaston – regularly
appear in the world’s best restaurant lists. Most foodies have a
love affair with Peru’s national dish, ceviche – raw fish marinated
in citrus and salt – and its typical accompaniment, pisco sour
cocktails (pisco with lime juice, simple syrup, egg white, and
angostura bitters). While in Lima, travellers can learn how to
prepare ceviche and pisco sours with Peruvian chef Penélope
Alzamora – who has worked with Gastón Acurio of Astrid y
Gaston fame – in her elegant kitchen in Barranco.
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A&K EXPERIENCE: Learn how to make ceviche
FOR PEACE SEEKERS
Rural, remote, and among ruined Inca terraces, explora Valle
Sagrado is set in Peru’s Sacred Valley, en route to Machu Picchu.
The sultry natural scent of wood seduces travellers upon entrance
to the Scandi-chic accommodation. It brings to mind the cosiest
of ski lodges with its roaring fires and butterfly chairs. The hotel’s
spa – now called the Pumacahua Bath House – was once a 17thcentury
manor house, owned by a local freedom-fighting hero,
and will have you unlacing your hiking boots for a while. But at
this explora, which is located at 2,900 metres above sea level, it’s all
about the views and surrounding valleys. On duty, there are more
than 20 guides who lead expeditions into the wilderness, guarantee
captivating treks into the landscape, and facilitate opportunities to
engage with local people and their customs.
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FOR PEOPLE-WATCHERS
A peaceful place once the Machu Picchu-bound tourists on the Inca
Trail have passed through each morning, the town of Ollantaytambo
is full of vibrant textiles and friendly locals. It’s the best surviving
example of Inca city planning and has been inhabited since the 13th
century. The narrow cobblestone streets are framed by irrigation
channels, which carry water from mountaintop to town, and quaint
buildings. Locals welcome travellers into their homes, where women
weave naturally dyed colourful cloth made from llama and alpaca
wool. Although it’s mesmerising to watch the weavers at work, the
town’s ruins are also must-sees: there’s a large Inca fortress, a temple,
and a towering edifice known as the Wall of the Six Monoliths.
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FOR MODERN-DAY HIRAM BINGHAMS
No trip to Peru would be complete without a visit to the UNESCO
World Heritage Site of Machu Picchu. For a rolling journey that
nearly outshines arrival at the royal Incan retreat, travel in style
aboard the Belmond Hiram Bingham rail service. However, the
more adventurous can trek the Inca Trail to get to Machu Picchu,
traversing the countryside, enjoying the wild Andean view, cut-stone
ruins, and herds of curious llama. Shrouded by mist, flanked by
foliage, and perched above the Urubamba River in a narrow saddle
between two peaks, Machu Picchu has been on most travellers’ wish
lists since the moment Yale-sponsored explorer Bingham stumbled
upon it in 1911. Visits are enlivened by knowledgeable guides, who’ll
take you off the very beaten track to discover the best photo-spots.
CONTACT ABERCROMBIE & KENT
For more information on suggested itineraries, Travel Edits
or Experiences in Peru, or to book an Andean adventure,
contact our Latin American travel specialists on 01242 547 701.
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