It's Always Been There

WHAT ARE THE MAIN INFLUENCES
IN YOUR FASHION PRACTICE?
Visual identities have been a constant
influence and I’ve read a lot of Ted
Polhemus’ writings on style coding and
subcultural identities. I have always
liked the idea of dressing a persona and
how specific aesthetics and codes reflect
a lifestyle and community. This encouraged
my interests in designing to express
particular fashion and social contexts.
WHAT IS IT LIKE WORKING AS A
WOMAN IN MENSWEAR?
I found myself gravitating towards
menswear very early on. The lifestyle
aspects that inspire me revolve around
the masculine attitudes seen within
underground music, graffiti, sports, ‘gang’
communities. I’d say the levels of male
versus female designers are equalling out
in menswear and I see it that I design how
I would want a guy to dress, yet I wouldn’t
say it’s from a feminine perspective.
YOU’RE A RECENT GRADUATE. HOW HAS
THE TRANSITION BEEN FOR YOU?
After I left the RCA I started worked
at Supreme in the office for a season
whilst also consulting for Liam on the
knitwear for AW18. For SS19 I’m working
at both Liam’s studio and the ALCH studio
across design and production. It’s nice
to be back in a studio environment and
being hands on with the process again.
WHAT ARE THE PHILOSOPHIES AND THOUGHT
PROCESSES BEHIND YOUR WORK?
Youth culture and visual identities
always direct my research. I’ve previously
explored the casuals, punks, Bronx hip
hop, yet only in my final year at the RCA
did I reflect inwards to subcultures and
youth references that are on a personal
level and influential to my aesthetic.
Anarchy, political reflection and societal
analysis also impact my projects as I
see fashion as a way to communicate
and express my take on society.
ORIGINALLY FROM MANCHESTER BUT CURRENTLY
LIVING IN LONDON, HOW DO YOU DRAW INSPIRATION
FROM YOUR NORTHERN CONNECTION?
Northern youth culture – the nightlife,
social circles, locations, social trends
etc – definitely plays a key part in
underlining my research and aesthetic.
The collection I designed whilst studying
at the RCA derived from a series of
photographs I took within a few years
when I was growing up in Manchester and
discovering nights such as Hit & Run,
then hanging out in the after-hours with
friends. Nostalgic connotations influenced
the aesthetic, graphics and silhouette
whilst reflecting an escapist frame of mind.
71 / ELLIE ROUSSEAU