FT156.DORDOGNE

GREAT DESTINATIONS ❘ THE DORDOGNE

THE DORDOGNE ❘ GREAT DESTINATIONS

The lure of

PÉRIGORD

The château and village

of Castelnaud-la-Chapelle

overlooks the River Céou,

a tributary of the Dordogne

La Dordogne: an ancient realm where

dark rivers sweep under limestone cliffs

and medieval hilltop villages emerge from

lush dense forest; where a cornucopia

of local produce has created a rich and

abundant gastronomic heritage; where

the extraordinary legacy of prehistoric

cave art contrasts with the sublime

architecture of grand Renaissance

châteaux; where today’s traveller can stay

for a week, a month, a season and never

grow jaded. Guy Hibbert explores... ❯❯

IMAGE © JONATHAN BARBOT

34 ❘ FRANCE TODAY June/July 2016 June/July 2016 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 35



The Périgord, to use the old name for

the modern French department

number 24, the Dordogne, is a

multi-faceted jewel of a region in

South-West France, where the sun is

high enough to make for warm humid

summers, sunny dry autumns, short sharp winters and

lush verdant springtimes.

Many people claim to know the Dordogne but when

you challenge them on their knowledge, it turns out

they know their favourite patch well, but have only

been to one or two towns and villages beyond – in

other words, they have formed their opinion too early.

To discover all that this grand region has to offer

requires time and imagination, to venture away from

the tourist hot-spots, to meander a little off the beaten

track, to allow time to linger and create your own

memorable experiences.

‘DORDOGNESHIRE’

The British have a long association with the Dordogne,

and fought over it often during the Hundred Years’ War

in the 14th and 15th centuries. By contrast, today’s

Brits are more likely to be seen fighting over an old

property for sale, enjoying the sensual delights of a

summer market or canoeing down a river. So popular

has the region proved with expats that national

‘Dordogneshire’ and if your only experience is passing

through Bergerac airport or visiting the pretty town of

Eymet then you might think that this reputation has

been well earned.

It’s no surprise the British love the area – it reminds

them of the more picturesque parts of England, say the

Cotswolds, but with less crowds and better weather.

But it would be a great mistake to label the Dordogne

in this clichéd manner. Nostalgia for pastoral idylls is a

powerful draw for many travellers, not just the British,

and this is a corner of France that can deliver a heady

antidote to the stress of busy lives, giving a taste of

what has often been lost in more densely populated

parts of the world. Like an actor who happens to be

excellent at a certain role, there is always a danger of

typecasting – but the reality is that la Dordogne is a

star with a diverse portfolio ready to be revealed, if you

know how and where to look.

Take a moment to consider the Dordogne ‘by

numbers’ and you will begin to appreciate its scale and

diversity. It’s actually the third largest département

in France and can easily take two and a half hours to

cross by road from one border to another. And no

wonder its river-based activities are legendary because

it has over 500 kilometres of navigable waterways,

including the mighty Dordogne, the Vézère, Isle and

Dronne. All this space is beautifully green: of the 557

communes, 497 are rural. The tourism office is rightly

newspaper journalists in the UK enjoy referring to golden and ochre medieval buildings cast deep ❯❯

IMAGES © GUY HIBBERT, JONATHAN BARBOT, OT DE PÉRIGUEUX

proud of the fact that they have 190 different sites

and monuments open to visitors, including 70 or so

museums, no fewer than 10 of France’s listed villages,

15 UNESCO World Heritage prehistoric sites, over 250

hotels, a similar number of campsites and literally

thousands of gîtes and country properties for rental.

No wonder three million tourists come to the Dordogne

every year.

And yet there is space for them all. Because, aside

from its supremacy in numbers, the Dordogne is big

enough to offer a charming diversity of landscapes,

attractions and activities to cater for most tastes and

to allow people to join in the action or be an escapist,

as the mood dictates.

THE FOUR COLOURS OF PÉRIGORD

Some years ago the tourist authorities hit upon a

distinct way of naming some of the territories within

the département – the so called four Périgords, the

Noir, Pourpre, Blanc and Vert (black, purple, white and

green). Unlike some more fanciful labels these labels

are actually quite handy to get your bearings and they

allow the visitor to get a sense of what lies beyond the

hotspot destinations. Having lived and travelled in the

Dordogne I can vouch for the aptness of the names.

Périgord Noir lies in the southeast and contains that

most quintessential of Dordogne towns, Sarlat, where

Clockwise from top left:

Much of the beauty of the

Dordogne is that it is in great

part very well preserved;

tranquility is never hard to

find; and commercial life is

much as it has ever been; the

Montpazier medieval festival;

le Château de Bridoire; view

over the rooftops of Périgueux

36 ❘ FRANCE TODAY June/July 2016

June/July 2016 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 37



© ALAMY

Sarlat is beautiful, but

for those in the know,

it is just one of many

beautiful places in the

Dordogne




SUBJECT ❘ EYEBROW

“FIND INSPIRATION IN THE

‘VALLÉE DE LA PRÉHISTOIRE’,

AN UNRIVALLED LOCATION

FOR CAVES, CAVERNS AND

UNDERGROUND TREASURES”

which tell terrible tales of the battles of the Hundred

Years’ War.

The central Dordogne, to the north of Bergerac,

is named the Périgord Blanc, because of the calcaire,

the bright limestone that underlies the gentle rolling

hills and valleys of open farmland and supplies the

characteristic white stone for many buildings, including

many striking Romanesque churches. The capital of

the Dordogne, Périgueux, with its spectacular

Romanesque cathedral and quaint vieille ville (great

for shopping), is situated in this department, as is the

country town of Ribérac, where a very popular market

takes place every Friday.

To the northeast of the department lies the Périgord

Vert, bordering on the Limousin, where green chestnut

and oak forests are interspersed with cattle-grazing

pastures. Visitors here head for the picturesque

town of Brantôme, with its medieval abbey in white

limestone, and the lovely village of Bourdeilles, with

its château to visit and where a picnic by the gentle

Dronne river is one of my favourite days out.

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The Dordogne is full of weird

and wonderful castles, such as

Montfort, each with its own

extraordinary tales to tell

IMAGE © MATHIEU ANGLADA

cooling shadows over immensely picturesque cobbled

streets lined with souvenir shops and restaurants

serving an endless array of local gastronomic

specialities – avoiding duck on the menu is simply not

an option. Visit Sarlat in the evening to appreciate the

romantic lighting and special ambience. Périgord Noir

is also home to the Vézère valley with its magnificent

networks of underground caves and grottoes, and the

Dordogne valley with its magnificent châteaux on their

pinnacles overlooking the broad, shining river below.

This is the heart of the Dordogne that many tourists

know and love and return to summer after summer.

BASTIDE TOWNS

To the west lies Périgord Pourpre, so named from the

colour of the grape, as this is home to the lovely city of

Bergerac (of Cyrano fame), surrounded by vineyards

producing the much-appreciated Bergerac Blancs and

Rouges, with the sweet wines of Monbazillac grown to

the south of the city and less well-known reds such as

AOC Pécharmant to the east. Périgord Pourpre also

encompasses the numerous fascinating 13th-century

bastide towns such as Monpazier and Beaumont-du-

Périgord with their unique grid layout and fortifications

PREHISTORIC MARVELS

Now you’ve got your bearings, the question is, in which

direction to head first? Of course this all depends on

your priorities. But for starters almost everyone can

find inspiration in the ‘Vallée de la Préhistoire’, an

unrivalled location for caves, caverns and underground

treasures. With 147 sites, 15 of which are UNESCO

World Heritage listed, there’s scope for everyone, but

atop the many archaeological wonders sits the ‘Sistine

Chapel of Prehistory’, the wonderful Lascaux cave

network with its extraordinary cave paintings, first

discovered by four teenagers back in 1940. The year

2016 brings exciting developments for Lascaux, with

the opening of The Centre International d’Art Pariétal

Montignac-Lascaux (or Lascaux 4), a grand scheme

blending contemporary architecture and design which

will offer a full reproduction of the Lascaux cave

thanks to new virtual reality and image technology.

Beyond Lascaux there are plenty of other underground

attractions including the original cave paintings at

Font-de-Gaumes, Les Eyzies, the unusually beautiful

geological formations at the Gouffre de Proumeyssac

and Maxange caves or the chance to go pot-holing at

the Grotte de Beaussac.

CHÂTEAUX AND VILLAGES

Above ground, more traditional but equally uplifting

architecture awaits, because the Dordogne has more

than its fair share of châteaux to visit. From early

fortified castles such as the cave fortress at Reignac ❯❯


Summer 2016 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 41



A FOODIE HEAVEN

Blessed with fertile soils, enough rain to irrigate and plenty of warm sun to ripen its produce,

the Dordogne offers an extravagant palate of local produce to tempt you.

Dordogne strawberries are hard to beat (buy them from

any market and be sure to eat them the same day!) Sweet

and fragrant, with many varieties to choose from – they

even have their own website at www.fraiseduperigord.com

Walnuts are a Dordogne speciality, with Appellation

d’Origine Contrôlée status. You’ll enjoy them on a classic

Périgordine salad – or even better, take back some walnut

oil to dress your salads at home.

Black truffles are a local speciality highly prized by chefs

for their delicate, aromatic, yet earthy flavour. The truffles are

harvested from December to February and sold in markets at

very high prices.

Foie gras can divide opinion but there’s no getting away from

its status in the Dordogne, where the duck and goose varieties

are served in nearly all restaurants as an appetiser or cooked

as part of a gastronomic main course.

Duck features in many shapes and forms within Périgordine

cuisine, served as rillettes (a kind of pâté) on toast as a starter

or cooked as magrets (grilled breast with a sauce) or confits

(preserved in fat, served crispy).

and the imperious heights of Beynac and Castelnaud

to the Renaissance masterpieces of Jumilhac and

Milandes, which was built by the Lord of Caumont for

his wife in 1489 but became much more famous in the

last century as the home of chanteuse Josephine Baker

and her children.

On a much more modest scale, but no less appealing,

are the typical golden-stoned blue-shuttered villages of

the Dordogne. The greatest claims to fame lies in the

fact that no less than ten of the plus beaux villages de

France are scattered throughout the department. In

fact, the Dordogne is home to the largest number of

listed villages in France. Situated 20km from Sarlat,

Saint-Amand-de-Coly nestles between two wooded

valleys and is famous for its 12th-century abbey. In the

Périgord Vert, Saint-Jean-de-Côle’s history is linked

with that of the Château de la Marthonie, which

dominates its main square, while the typical village

of Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère between Montignac and

Les Eyzies boasts no fewer than three castles. Other

villages include Limeuil (overlooking the confluence

of the Dordogne and Vézère), Monpazier, La Roque-

Gageac, Belvès, Domme, Castelnaud-la-Chapelle and

Beynac-et-Cazenac.

IMAGES © JONATHAN BARBOT, CHAMBRE AGRIC. DORDOGNE, SYND. PROF. NOIX DU PÉRIGORD, CP ECOMUSÉE DE LA TRUFFE

SUMMERTIME FUN – FOR

CHILDREN OF ALL AGES

The summer season delivers maximum value for family

holidaymakers with over a hundred events and

activities focused on the younger tourists. Under the

seductive heat of the Périgord sun there are plenty

of activities to entertain the kids. After they have

exhausted the pleasures of family canoeing why not

give them a little education about ancient history at

the Prehistory Labyrinth, opening in 2016, where they

become explorers for a day. Or visit the Isle river near

Jumilhac for a spot of gold-panning. For a theme park

with a gentle French country vibe try Le Bournat

(www.lebournat.fr). And don’t forget that many

châteaux stage activities and displays with falconry,

jousting and medieval street fairs to enjoy.

Anyone looking for more active pastimes is well

catered for – the département offers numerous

canoeing, kayaking, cycling and hiking trails for all

standards, some, such as the Cro-Magnon Footpath,

follow in the footsteps of prehistoric man. Organise

your own ad hoc expedition or join in one of the

many organised events. There truly is something

for everybody – vintage costume and bicycle fans,

for example, should not miss the retro cycle rally

leaving from Monbazillac in August.

MORE UNEXPECTED PLEASURES

TO BE DISCOVERED

But often the charm of the Dordogne lies in the

unexpected. You are driving or cycling and en route

you take a wrong turn and find yourself in a little

village which wasn’t recommended and hasn’t won any

accolades. But as you look around your mystery village

there’s an irresistible ambience – you have stumbled

into a haven where time appears to have stood still

for centuries. So you stop for a leisurely déjeuner in

a sleepy café and admire the sun filtering through the

canopy of an ancient plane tree in the square. You

exchange some friendly words with the waiter and

watch a couple of old gents sitting and chatting on a

bench near the fountain. On a crumbling ochre wall

you notice the faded blue and white painted lettering

advertising a long forgotten liqueur while at the foot of

the wall a cat stretches lazily in the spring sunshine. In

other words, you slow down, and you let the Dordogne,

this rich and magically diverse region, fold its warming

arms around you. FT

❯❯

Montignac is home to the

world-famous Lascaux caves

and their prehistoric art




SUBJECT ❘ EYEBROW

A DOZEN OF THE FINEST DORDOGNE CHÂTEAUX

This is a land of castles with any number of grand houses to visit. Here is our selection of the best

The fascinating history of the Dordogne from medieval to modern times is brought to life by the grandeur and

mystique of some of its splendid châteaux. When you visit these medieval fortresses, Renaissance palaces and grand

family estates you will encounter a rich tapestry, revealing accounts of love and war, ambition and tragedy, fairy-tale

romance and escapism. Here is our selection – but many more fine examples await travellers looking for inspiring

architecture and remarkable stories from days of yore.

CHÂTEAU DE BEYNAC

This imposing fortified castle sitting

on a dramatic clifftop location

overlooking the River Dordogne has

seen almost a thousand years of

history played out against its stone

walls and courtyards. It is one of the

best-preserved in the region.

www.beynac-en-perigord.com

CHÂTEAU DE CASTELNAUD

In the heart of the Périgord Noir this

is a medieval fortress with a military

history. In keeping with its past life,

today it houses a museum of medieval

warfare. Enactments of Cathar history

take place on Monday, Tuesday and

Wednesday evenings in summer.

www.castelnaud.com

CHÂTEAU DE MILANDES

A beautiful 15th-century castle in the

heart of the Dordogne valley, made

most famous by former owner the

American chanteuse Josephine Baker,

who lived here with her 12 adopted

children. Famed for its birds of prey

displays during the summer.

www.milandes.com

CHÂTEAU DE BRIDOIRE

A beautiful 15th-century château near

Bergerac, once neglected but now

happily in private hands and

undergoing a small renaissance. Many

restored and furnished rooms to view

as well as medieval-style games.

Popular with families.

www.chateaudebridoire.com

CHÂTEAU DE HAUTEFORT

Closer in appearance to a Loire

château, the golden age of this

majestic building in the north of the

Dordogne was during the time of the

Marquis de Hautefort in the 16th and

17th centuries. The beautiful formal

gardens are a must-see.

www.chateau-hautefort.com

CHÂTEAU DE MONBAZILLAC

Here, just south of Bergerac on a

proud hilltop, you can combine a

pleasant dégustation of the famous

dessert wines with a visit to the small

yet impressive château with

Renaissance interiors and views

over the vineyards.

www.chateau-monbazillac.com

CHÂTEAU DE BIRON

Near Monpazier, in the south of the

Dordogne, this dramatic château from

the 12th century is perched on a

hillside overlooking the Périgord and

Agenais countryside. Visitors will

appreciate its many beautiful

architectural features.

www.bergerac-tourisme.com

CHÂTEAU DE JUMILHAC

The Château de Jumilhac is to be

found in the north of the Dordogne,

on the route of Richard the

Lionheart. With its picturesque

turreted Renaissance roofline this

imposing château strikes visitors as

the quintessential romantic castle.

www.jumilhac.net

CHÂTEAU DE PUYGUILHEM

A Renaissance jewel in the north of

the region, Puyguilhem is an elegant

building with classic proportions and

Loire-esque turreted rooflines. Hard

to believe it was once abandoned

until the French state intervened in

the 20th century.

www.chateau-puyguilhem.fr

CHÂTEAU DE BOURDEILLES

The site of one of the four barronies

of the Périgord, this is an impressive

château with a spectacular tower

overlooking the River Dronne in

the north of the Dordogne near

Brantôme. The château and

surrounding village are worth a visit.

www.tourisme-perigueux.fr

CHÂTEAU DE LANQUAIS

In the Périgord Pourpre, this château

dates from the Middle Ages but also

boasts some fine work by Italian

craftsmen who later helped transform

some parts of it into a Renaissance

palace. It has been owned by the

same family since 1732.

www.chateaudelanquais.fr

CHÂTEAU DE SAUVEBOEUF

Only opened to the public in 2013,

this is a Louis XIII château overlooking

the River Vézère not far from the

Lascaux caves. The owner will often

be on hand to share his special

interest in prehistoric artefacts.

www.chateau-de-sauveboeuf.jimdo

.com

© OT INTERCOMMUNAL DE PÉRIGORD NOIR, CH. DE BRIDOIRE, PAYS DES BASTIDES, SÉMITOUR PÉRIGORD, M BOUTRY, OT CH. D’HAUTEFORT, CH. DE JUMILHAC, CH. DE LANQUAIS, JONATHAN BARBOT, CH. DE MONBAZILLAC, OT PÉRIGORD DRONNE BELLE/FRÉDÉRIC TISSIER, CH. DE SAUVEBOEUF

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SUBJECT ❘ EYEBROW

CANOEING

The Dordogne is France’s leading

département for recreational canoeing,

whatever your age or ability. Visitors

can explore the delightful valleys of

the Dordogne, Vézère, Isle and Dronne

from spring right the way through to

the autumn.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO IN THE DORDOGNE

We highlight here some of the more popular activities, attractions and places to visit in the region

To find out more

about other sites

and things to do visit

www.francetoday

.com/travel

Canoeing is one of the great

recreational activities of the Dordogne

CYCLING

Hire bikes and follow cycling trails

throughout the department or join

in ‘Vélo Paradiso’ – the big cycling

event of summer 2016 (20 & 21

August) to add some theatre and

gastronomy to your cycling experience

in the Périgord.

HIKING

For serious hikers or more sedate

strollers there’s plenty on offer. Do

it the French way and follow the

‘randonnées’ footpaths past tranquil

orchards and riversides. Or try

your hand at ‘off-route’ hiking in the

prehistoric cliffs of the Vézère valley.

rando.dordogne.fr

www.walkingdordogne.com

CAVES

Lascaux Cave

Opening in late 2016 is the Centre

International d’Art Pariétal de

Montignac – also known as Lascaux

4 – the latest exciting development

which confirms Lascaux, home of

the world-famous Palaeolithic cave

paintings, as a must-see attraction

for any visitors to the Dordogne.

The ancient cave paintings of Lascaux

are a must-see attraction

A major tourist destination, and a heaven for foodies, Sarlat is considered to be one of the most beautiful towns in all France

www.projet-lascaux.com/en/lascaux-4

www.lascaux.culture.fr

Gouffre de Proumeyssac

Here, at what is the largest

underground cave in Périgord,

visitors can get up close to the

beautiful crystalline rock formations

with ambient lighting, or ride in a

suspended gondola to recreate the

experience of the original discoverers

of the cave back in 1907.

www.gouffre-proumeyssac.com

Musée National de Préhistoire

Located in the heart of the great

pre-historic sites of the Vézère,

this museum, with its striking new

contemporary building, is a genuine

treasure trove of artefacts and

captivating presentations on mankind’s

earliest ancestors.

www.musee-prehistoire-eyzies.fr

GARDENS

Les Jardins d’Eau

Think Monet’s garden in the

Dordogne! Here, in three hectares of

lush gardens and semi-tropical ponds

near Sarlat, visitors will discover a

gardening oasis specialising in water

lilies and lotuses. Top tip: accept the

free Chinese paper umbrella to

ward off the hot sun!

www.jardinsdeau.com

Head out of Sarlat to find tranquility in

the Water Gardens

Jardins de Marqueyssac

Ever popular, this is a rather magical

and romantic garden overlooking

the Dordogne river with spectacular

topiary garden and shady walkways.

A summer highlight is to visit on

Thursday evenings in July or August

when the gardens are candlelit.

www.marqueyssac.com

TOWNS AND VILLAGES

Périgueux

Stroll or pick up souvenirs in the

quaint streets and markets of the

vieille ville, admire the Romanesque

cathedral, visit the Art and

Archaeology museum or the Gallo-

Roman Museum Vesunna for a

fascinating glimpse into history.

www.tourisme-perigueux.fr

Bergerac

Cyrano’s town sits right on the

Dordogne river and a boat trip on

a gabarre is always popular. Meander

through the beautifully preserved

town centre and stop for lunch to

enjoy Périgordine cuisine with a drop

of the famous Bergerac wine.

www.bergerac-tourisme.com

Sarlat

No trip to the Dordogne is complete

without a visit to the incomparably

charming golden-stoned city of Sarlat.

Take a daytime guided tour to discover

the secret coins of the medieval

quarter or eat out in the evening

to savour the special atmosphere.

www.sarlat-tourisme.com

Bergerac is a good place to stay,

and another great place to dine out

EVENTS CALENDAR

There’s always something to see and

do in the Dordogne, especially during

the summer months. Be sure to check

out the many art and music festivals,

concerts, markets, châteaux attractions,

creative workshops and fun activities

on offer for 2016.

www.dordogne-perigord-tourisme.fr

© APA ST-LÉON, OT SARLAT, PAYS DE BERGERAC, SÉMITOUR, JARDINS D’EAU, GUY HIBBERT

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WHERE TO STAY AND EAT IN THE DORDOGNE

The best restaurants and hotels in the region, some of which are even in the same house

TOP RESTAURANT SELECTION

Charbonnel, Brantôme

Getting rave reviews and giving the

nearby Moulin de l’Abbaye a run for

its money.

www.lesfrerescharbonnel.com

L’Imaginaire, Terrasson

The French are flocking to eat the

new menus prepared by rising star

chef Julien Dayre.

www.l-imaginaire.fr

Michelin-starred dining with spectacular

views at La Tour des Vents

La Tour de s Vents, Monba zillac

Sumptuous cuisine, impeccable service,

a panoramic view over the city of

Bergerac… What’s not to like?

www.tourdesvents.com

Les Jardins d’Harmonie, Sarlat

Fresh Périgordine produce prepared

and cooked with flair and imagination.

The hot ticket in a city with a huge

choice of tables.

www.lesjardinsdharmonie.com

Le Vieux Logis, Trémolat

Summer dining on the terrace is

a must at this Relais et Châteaux

establishment which gets five-star Trip

Advisor reviews.

www.vieux-logis.com

Les Glycines,

Les Eyzies-de-Tayac

Refined, contemporary dining with an

emphasis on local ingredients gives this

former relais de poste its reputation.

www.les-glycines-dordogne.com

L’Essentiel, Périgueux

People come here for a special lunch

or dinner. Eric Vidal has held his

Le Mas de Castel, a quiet getaway hotel

minutes from busy Sarlat

La Chartreuse du Bignac, part of a new generation of hotels that offer comfort and service in tranquil locations

Michelin star since 2008.

www.restaurant-perigueux.com

L’Imparfait, Bergerac

Sit outside on a warm day and soak

up the ambience as you eat classic

French dishes with a twist at this

Bergerac stalwart.

www.it-savee.co.uk/wp

TOP HOTEL SELECTION

Les Glycines,

Les Eyzies-de-Tayac

Old coaching inn with a contemporary

design twist, restaurant (see left), spa,

pool and bistro – the best place to

stay near Les Eyzies.

www.les-glycines-dordogne.com

Périgordine cuisine comes rustic and

robust or with Michelin stars

La Chartreuse de Bignac,

Monbazillac

A beautifully restored property

perched on a stunning hillside location,

with pool and restaurant – here it’s all

about relaxation.

www.abignac.com

Le Mas de Montet, Petit-Bersac

French Renaissance château with

wonderful bedrooms and lounges, a

huge pool and a pleasant restaurant.

www.lemasdemontet.com

Château de Lalande

Charming and elegant rooms await

you in this impressive 18th-century

château not far from Périgueux.

Terraces, gardens, pool and gourmet

dining, it has it all.

www.chateau-lalande-perigord.com

La Roseraie, Montignac

Visit in May to experience the best

of the wonderful rose gardens, or any

time of year for country charm on the

banks of the Vézère.

www.laroseraie-hotel.com

Le Moulin du Roc,

Champagnac-de-Belair

Stylishly converted mill not far from

Brantôme. Dining in the romantic

restaurant or on the riverside terrace

adds to the appeal.

www.moulinduroc.com

DORDOGNE ESSENTIALS

GETTING THERE

BY TRAIN

TGV stations in Angoulême, Bordeaux

and Libourne • TER stations in

Périgueux, Bergerac, Sarlat and

elsewhere.

BY CAR

Périgueux-Paris: 550km • Périgueux-

Lyon on the A8: 400km • Périgueux-

Bordeaux on the A89: 120km

BY PLANE

Bordeaux airport, Bergerac airport,

Brive airport

Discover a riverside haven of roses and

romance at La Roseraie

Le Vieux Logis, Trémolat

Elegance and bucolic charm

throughout the house and gardens,

and a top-notch restaurant (see left).

www.vieux-logis.com

Le Mas de Castel, Sarlat

A bit of a find. Affordable and

comfortable rooms close to Sarlat.

Heated swimming pool a bonus.

www.hotel-lemasdecastel.com

Dordogne

© LA TOUR DES VENTS, LA ROSERAIE, LA CHARTREUSE DU BIGNAC, GUY HIBBERT


FT156.DORDOGNE

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