delicious Australia - May 2020

MAY 2020 | VOTED MAGAZINE BRAND OF THE YEAR

FOOD

WITH

HEART

+

DESTINATIONS

TO INSPIRE:

WA, MEMPHIS

& GEORGIA

* PASTA BAKES

* MATT MORAN’S

FLOURLESS CAKES

* NEW-SEASON SOUPS

* MOTHER’S DAY MENU

* EASY CRUMBLES

* COLIN FASSNIDGE’S

SUPER SHAWARMA

BONUS NEW DELICIOUS. DRINKS

MAGAZINE ON THE BACK!

FREEFORM

PORK & FENNEL

LASAGNE

WITH BACON BECHAMEL!

YOTAM

OTTOLENGHI

Comfort baking

JULIA BUSUTTIL

NISHIMURA

New family favourites

SHANE DELIA

Vegetarian

shish kebab

metal

Westinghouse

CONTINUES TO INNOVATE

AND SEAMLESSLY

INTEGRATE APPLIANCES

INTO AUSTRALIAN

KITCHENS, SUCH AS

THE 600MM DARK

STAINLESS STEEL OVEN

WITH AIRFRY AND

STEAM ASSIST.

Westinghouse appliances in dark stainless steel, from left: 600mm freestanding dishwasher, WSF6608KXA, $799; 600mm compact 44L combi microwave

oven, WMB4425DSC, $1,499; 600mm oven with AirFry and Steam Assist, WVEP618DSC, $1,899; 860mm integrated rangehood, WRI824BB, $699; 900mm

induction cooktop, WHI945BC, $1,749; 900mm large capacity oven with AirFry function, WVEP917DSC, $2,899; 524L French door fridge, WHE5204BB, $1,799.

AirFry TECHNOLOGY

WANT TO KNOW THE SECRET TO COOKING SUPER-CRISPY, LIGHT “FRIED” FOOD?

HOT AIR AND THE UNIQUE WESTINGHOUSE AIRFRY MESH TRAY.

SOMETHING IN THE AIR

WESTINGHOUSE 900MM DARK STAINLESS

STEEL LARGE CAPACITY OVEN WITH

AIRFRY FUNCTION, WVEP917DSC, $2,899

From super-crunchy veggies to “fried” chicken – and pretty

much anything else that would usually be deep fried – this

Westinghouse oven and its AirFry mesh trays are all you need

to create deliciously crispy dishes with less oil and fuss.

The trays allow every surface of the food to be exposed to

the hot air circulating the oven, resulting in all-over crispiness

and even cooking without the need to turn it mid-way.

Centre OF ATTENTION

WESTINGHOUSE IS RAISING THE BAR FOR APPLIANCES WITH INNOVATIVE DESIGNS

AND ENGINEERING. HERE’S A LOOK AT THE NEWEST MUST-HAVES.

PLAY IT COOL

WESTINGHOUSE 600L STAINLESS

STEEL 4 DOOR FRENCH DOOR

REFRIGERATOR WITH ICE & WATER

DISPENSER, WQE6060SA, $2,299

Offering plenty of space while still fitting

into a 900mm kitchen cavity, this fridge

in fingerprint-resistant stainless steel is

designed to make life easier for busy families.

The freezer has seven compartments for a

variety of storage needs, while the integrated

water dispenser and automatic ice-maker

mean cool drinks are always on tap. Cheers.

THE INTEGRATED

WATER DISPENSER AND

AUTOMATIC ICEMAKER

MEAN COOL DRINKS

ARE ALWAYS ON TAP

IN THE HOOD

WESTINGHOUSE 900MM

STAINLESS STEEL

CANOPY RANGEHOOD,

WRC924SC, $749

Touch Control, LED lights

and an extraction rate of

720m 3 /hr make this hood a

smart choice. Team with an

induction cooktop to take

advantage of its Hob2Hood

technology, which enables

the hood to automatically

adjust suction levels as

the cooking heat changes.

FLAME GAME

WESTINGHOUSE 900MM

GAS-ON-GLASS COOKTOP,

WHG958BC, $1,199

Save on cooking time and

lock in flavour with this

highly efficient gas cooktop

featuring an elegant black

tempered-glass base. The

highest setting reaches

19MJ/hr and there are low

simmer heats for when you

need a gentler touch. Now

you’re really cooking with gas.

COME CLEAN

TEAM WITH

AN INDUCTION

COOKTOP FOR

HOB2HOOD

TECHNOLOGY

WESTINGHOUSE 600MM

DARK STAINLESS

STEEL DISHWASHER,

WSF6608KXA, $799

Make cleaning up as effortless

as possible with this superefficient

dishwasher. Features

include a generous 15-placesetting

capacity and eight wash

programs, including half-load,

SensorWash, Fast 30-minute

and TimeSave 50-minute

options. The convenient

fan-drying finish means

you can unpack dry dishes

as soon as the cycle finishes.

It’s an open and shut case.

ADVERTISEMENT

LINK IN

WESTINGHOUSE 860MM DARK STAINLESS STEEL

INTEGRATED RANGEHOOD, WRI824BB, $699

Minimising unpleasant cooking smells just got easier with Westinghouse’s Hob2Hood

technology. As you increase the temperature on the induction cooktop, a sensor

automatically communicates with the rangehood, which then adjusts the suction

airflow – so you can focus on cooking and leave the appliances to take care of the rest.

CRUNCH TIME

AIR-FRIED SWEET POTATO

AND BEETROOT CHIPS

Just as crunchy and

delicious but with a

fraction of the fat you’d

get from store-bought

packets, these moreish

vegetable chips are

easy to make using a

Westinghouse AirFry

mesh tray. They can

be whipped up quickly

– invest in a mandolin! –

and they’re guaranteed to

be a hit in any household.

HARVEYNORMAN

.COM.AU/RECIPES

HOB2HOOD

TECHNOLOGY

AUTOMATICALLY

ADJUSTS

THE SUCTION

AIRFLOW

HEAT OF THE MOMENT

WESTINGHOUSE 600MM DARK

STAINLESS STEEL OVEN WITH AIRFRY

AND STEAM ASSIST, WVEP618DSC, $1,899

Westinghouse continues to innovate and

seamlessly integrate appliances into our

kitchens, such as new dark stainless steel

ovens with AirFry and Steam Assist functions.

• AIRFRY

Get the perfect crunch every time – minus

the excess oil of regular or deep frying –

with the unique Westinghouse AirFry mesh

trays. The trays make it a snap to achieve

evenly cooked food and all-over crispiness,

and eliminate the need to have a dedicated

airfryer taking up space on your bench.

• STEAM ASSIST

Steam Assist helps you whip up the

ultimate roast with the ideal combination

of hot air and steam for crisp, crunchy

skin and tender, juicy meat. Steam is

also used to help clean the oven cavity.

SMOOTH MOVES

WESTINGHOUSE 900MM INDUCTION

COOKTOP, WHI945BC, $1,749

Ever feel like pots boil over the moment

you’re not watching? Not anymore.

This induction cooktop’s BoilProtect

sensor detects potential over-boiling and

automatically adjusts the temperature,

so you can heat liquids rapidly without any

worries. With its touch-slide controls and

Hob2Hood technology (see above), this

cooktop is all about ease and efficiency.

GET THE PERFECT

CRUNCH – MINUS THE

EXCESS OIL OF REGULAR

FRYING – WITH THE

WESTINGHOUSE

AIRFRY MESH TRAY

SHOP AT YOUR LOCAL STORE, ONLINE AT HN.COM.AU OR CALL 1300 464 278

To find out what’s happening at your local Harvey Norman ® , contact your store directly. Harvey Norman ®

stores are operated by independent franchisees. Not available at all stores. Ends 20/05/20.

MAY

CONTENTS

74

CONTENTS.

12 Critic & The Comic

Mike Bennie and Merrick Watts

present their first-ever column.

14 I’m Loving

Matt Preston mixes us a drink.

16 Cheese Counter

A boozy brunch treat.

18 Postcard

We visit the home of Patrón.

66

SAVOUR

17 In Season

Ragazzi’s Scott McComas-Williams

cooks with the season’s best.

40 Autumn Menu

Serve up a cosy cooler-weather

menu, courtesy of Kirsten Jenkins.

50 Pasta Bakes

We dial up the comfort factor.

58 Extract

Aaron Turner’s love letter to

Nashville-style hot chicken.

66 Guest Chef

Shane Delia crafts bar snacks with

Mediterranean flair.

74 On Trend

Soups for the soul.

82 Extract

Julia Busuttil Nishimura’s new book

is filled with recipes for the family.

90 Matt Moran

Wholesome flourless cakes to share.

98 Wicked

Crumbles you’ll fall in love with.

TR AVEL

108 Global Flavours

Georgia’s capital, Tbilisi, is a food

lover’s destination.

116 Postcard

Head west and explore Gascoyne.

122 Postcard

Luxury meets tradition in Mykonos.

126 City Guide

Memphis offers up more than just

the Blues.

DRINKS

3 Ed’s Letter

4 Up & Comers

Hear from the top innovators in our

world-class drinks industry.

11 Insider: Product

REGULARS

6 Ed’s Letter

10 Talk to Us

12 Menus

14 Out & About

All the fun from American Express

delicious. Month Out.

26 Insider: News

28 MasterChef

30 delicious. Produce Awards

Louis Tikaram talks top produce.

32 Meat Market

Chicken shawarma made easy.

34 Yotam Ottolenghi

Make it simple with this tasty bake.

36 Subscribe to delicious.

120 Insider: Travel

132 Passport

FOLLOW US...

@deliciousAUS

delicious.com.au

For more delicious. content.

ON THE COVER

Freeform pork & fennel lasagne

with bacon bechamel

(recipe p 57)

Recipe Phoebe Wood

Photography Nigel Lough

Styling Kirsten Jenkins

Merchandising Emmaly Stewart

OFFICIAL DELICIOUS.

TEST KITCHEN SUPPLIER:

Our meat is supplied by Vic’s Meat

(vicsmeat.com.au).

delicious.com.au 5

ED LETTER.

WELCOME

FOR ONCE IN my professional life, I am lost for words. It’s so

hard to know what to say. As we went to print for this issue,

I decided to completely rewrite this letter as our world began

changing by the hour. Each day brought devastating news from

all aspects of our world at delicious.: closures for restaurants,

bars, small businesses and chefs, challenges for the newsagents

that sell our magazines, right through to the airlines, and travel

companies we work with, the bottle shops and producers and

suppliers were under threat. Not to mention, of course, the

medical professionals on the front line.

Our own team grappled with sending our very first issue to

print entirely remotely. Fingers crossed we’ve been able to pull

it off, as we adjust to this new way of working. And that by the time this reaches you, wherever

you are, you and your family are safe and that delicious. brings some comfort to you. Originally

this issue was about ‘food with heart’ – intended because of its proximity to Mother’s Day, as

well as the heartiness of winter food, but also the love and comfort that this nourishing type of

cooking could bring after a summer of wild weather, bushfires and uncertainty.

It now means something new as the world battles against the spread of the Coronavirus, and

resulting isolation. ‘Food with heart’ has become about us bringing you our best at a time when

you need it. Many of the stories inside seem prescient. Matt Moran’s flourless cakes (p 90 – eerily

predictive of the supermarket shortage to come), Phoebe Wood’s crumbles (p 98), Julia Busuttil

Nishimura’s nurturing family recipes (p 82) and Kirsten Jenkins’ dreamy autumn menu (p 40).

Food makes cherished memories, and hopefully this issue helps you shape some happy ones.

On the flip side, I’ve never had time to cook more, and cooking for and with my children is one

of the most enjoyable things I can think of. I know our audience is hungry to hear from us – our

online traffic has reached greater heights than Christmas. So we’ve invited our team and

contributors to share their daily moments, recipes and advice via video from their own homes,

kitchens and bars to our new daily series Out of Office with delicious. Tune in to our Facebook

and Instagram channels (with the hashtag #ooowithdelicious) to stay connected with us.

Food brings people together. Hopefully delicious. is a balm for you. We have decided to

persevere with our Travel section this month both to support the industry, to dream, and hope

for the time we can all explore the world freely once again. We wish every kindness to all our

readers at this time and a very happy Mother’s Day to all (whether it’s remote or not!)

Kerrie McCallum, Editor-in-chief

Follow me: @kerriemccallum @kerrie_mccallum

PHOTOGRAPHY ANSON SMART STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS MERCHANDISING EMMALY STEWART

6 delicious.com.au

DISCOVER

THE NEW

AUSTRALIA’S BEST

DRINKS NEWS,

REVIEWS AND

RECIPES...

NOW ON TAP!

MAKE LIFE DELICIOUS.

VISIT DELICIOUS.COM.AU/DRINKS NOW

INBOX.

TO US

FEBRUARY’S MOST-LIKED POST

Have you ever

wondered how they

get all the layers and

ingredients incorporated

in a Golden Gaytime just

right? We put

@warrenmendes to the

task of re-creating this

classic treat in a new

episode of Nailed It!

Watch it on our YouTube

channel now.

Photo: @til_pictures

1524 likes, 34 comments

PLENTY MORE FISH: I made the oven-roasted salmon

with maple and mustard herb crumb (February 2019, p 60) for lunch

over the holiday weekend. All my guests loved it. In fact, several

told their friends how good it was and they all went out to buy a

copy of the magazine! There are so many great fish and potato

salad recipes in this issue that I can’t wait to try..Barbara Steuer

#MAKEITDELICIOUS

TIME AFTER TIME: Greetings from Perth. Today I enjoyed

my favourite breakfast, sitting on my balcony with my favourite

person and my favourite magazine. I choose a different delicious.

from my collection every morning. How joyful it is to read the issue

as though it’s the first time. The chefs like Jamie are baby-faced,

and I’ve visited all of the cities in your annual Italian issue.

A subscription to delicious. was the best gift ever from my partner

of 50 years. I’ve kept all my tried-and-tested, and delight in

discovering how relevant the recipes are today. Thank you for

your timeless work, you need to know how appreciated you are!

Julie Nolan

MAY 2020 | VOTED MAGAZINE BRAND OF THE YEAR

* PASTA BAKES

* MATT MORAN’S

FLOURLESS CAKES

* NEW-SEASON SOUPS

* MOTHER’S DAY MENU

* EASY CRUMBLES

* COLIN FASSNIDGE’S

SUPER SHAWARMA

BONUS NEW DELICIOUS DRINKS

MAGAZINE ON THE BACK!

YOTAM

OTTOLENGHI

Comfort baking

JULIA BUSUTTIL

NISHIMURA

New family favourites

FOOD

WITH

HEART

+

DESTINAT ONS

TO INSP RE:

WA MEMPHIS

& GEORG A

FREEFORM

PORK & FENNEL

LASAGNE

WITH BACON BECHAMEL!

SHANE DELIA

Vegetarian

shish kebab

MAKE THE COVER RECIPE

We’ve updated your go-to lasagne

recipe for a hearty twist on the

classic. Pork and fennel meld with

bacon bechamel for the ultimate

comfort dinner. Show us your

autumn feast by tagging

@deliciousaus and

#makeitdelicious.

THE WINNER IS…

I took a job on a Spanish super yacht to follow my culinary heart, even though my

share-house’s culinary repertoire comprised mainly of canned tuna pasta and banana

bread. Within six months, I went from stewardess to chef after my predecessor left

mid-season. The pages of delicious. taught me quickly how to hold the attention of

our German owners and their friends. Seared eye fillet, baked whole fish, kipfler

potato salads, sorbets, cakes, pastries, and all of the tricks and clever presentation in

your pages helped me make the most of the incredible fresh produce found in the

markets of Cannes and Palma de Mallorca. The clarity and uniqueness of your

recipes gave me the confidence and inspiration to cook my way around Mallorca, the

South of France, Italy, Malta, Greece, and now here at home on Hamilton Island.

The 200th issue (February 2020) is particularly inspiring, with more than 30 pages of

unique recipes dog-eared to try out. Thank you for accompanying me for so long on

such a brilliant adventure. Tina Webb

ED’S NOTE: Congratulations, Tina! You have won a Liebherr Barrique WKB 1712 wine cellar, valued at $1990. The storage

unit can hold up to 60 bottles and has an activated charcoal filter, interior lighting, double-glazed tinted doors and

temperature control, making it the ultimate household addition to perfectly store your wine collection.

Send your emails to delicious@newslifemedia.com.au

or write to us at Locked Bag 5030, Alexandria, NSW 2015.

delicious. reserves the right to edit reader letters, posts and comments.

10 delicious.com.au

vicsmeatmarket.com.au

Pick up in-store or

have it delivered to

your door.

Find us at Sydney Fish Market

02 8570 8570

MAY

MENUS

NOURISHING STAPLES

ULTIMATE COMFORT

AUTUMN SHOWSTOPPERS

Pumpkin cake

with Marsala

ricotta cream

Roast carrots, dill, maple, harissa and

hummus, p 72

~

Potato, white bean and kale soup,

parmesan sourdough, p 78

~

Burnt butter, almond and

honey cake, p 96

Fried green tomatoes, p 63

Jordy Kay Chardonnay 2019

(Seymour, Victoria)

~

One-pot lamb shank, black olive

and chilli pasta bake, p 57

Ravensworth Sangiovese 2019

(Hilltops, NSW)

~

Blueberry and lemon

curd crumble, p 105

Logan Moscato 2018 (Orange, NSW)

Radicchio and pear salad with

blue cheese and walnuts, p 86

Grant Burge East Argyle Pinot Gris

~

Duck rotolo with rainbow chard

and egg yolk, p 20

Grant Burge Summers Chardonnay

~

Pumpkin cake with

Marsala ricotta cream, p 46

Grant Burge Pinot Rosé

“When I’m feeling weary (I think we all are

at the moment) food is where I turn first. We

all know that soup is good for the soul, but so

are roast carrots – especially when they are

sticky with maple and served with punchy

harissa. And for real, sweet-tooth-approved

nourishment, this flourless burnt butter,

almond and honey cake is unbeatable.”

Corinne Parkes,

delicious. Subeditor

“Comfort and familiarity go hand in

hand for me. Therefore I am reaching

for the everyday favourite wines, easyto-drink

crisp whites and soft, juicy

reds. This menu cries out for bright,

lively wines, of both colours, to cut

through some of the richness. Go for

a racy chardonnay and an Italian red.”

Mike Bennie, Drinks Writer

“A pinot gris is a great place to start for

this menu – it has a delicate balance

of taste and texture to match the bold

flavours in the salad. Everyone’s first

reaction is to pair duck with pinot noir,

but chardonnay is a fantastic match,

with its depth of flavour. And why not

match this sophisticated dessert with

a rosé featuring red fruits and wild

strawberries: a creamy mouthfeel and

dry finish to balance the indulgent

Marsala ricotta cream. More please!”

Craig Stansborough,

Chief Winemaker, Grant Burge

12 delicious.com.au

Settle in

with Foxtel

The gurus:

talent will show you the way…

GET SET TO SMILE

The gurus: Andrew Winter, Gogglebox

Australia’s families, Peter Maddison

The how: Enjoy some grin action every

day, whether it’s courtesy of our beloved

couch critics on Gogglebox Australia,

the banter between hosts Winter,

Shaynna Blaze and Charlie Albone on

Selling Houses Australia, the tasty

treats whipped up on The Great

Australian Bake Off or the interior inspo

delivered by Grand Designs Australia.

The win: Smiling releases endorphins,

instantly uplifting your mood.

The how:

high on the feelgood scale. Series

such as Food Safari Water, Jamie

(attempt to!) recreate at home.

The win:

to take you places.

WELCOME WELLNESS

The gurus: Tom Kerridge, Rachel

Hunter, Gregg Wallace

The how: Know-how is a super-power,

so get insights into how to eat healthily,

cherish your body and make wise

The win:

The gurus:

The how:

The win:

2

1

3

4

5

Out&

About

DELICIOUS. @ BEA

“EXCITED TO LAUNCH

AMERICAN EXPRESS

DELICIOUS. MONTH

OUT THIS EVENING! ”

– MATT MORAN

11

March saw the launch of

American Express delicious.

Month Out – a city-wide

celebration of the world-class

restaurants, bars and cafes in

Sydney that continue to delight,

in good times and bad.

1. Matt Moran with delicious. editor-in-chief

Kerrie McCallum at Barangaroo House for the

launch of American Express delicious. Month

Out. 2. It’s not a party without a neon sign.

3. Bea was the setting for a very special dinner.

4. Dishes were matched with wines from

Petaluma. 5. Victoria Moxey, Naysla Edwards,

and a friend. 6. Gift bags filled with goodies

including San Pellegrino drinks. 7. Rooftop bar

Smoke partied with magnums of Veuve Clicquot.

8. Darren Robertson and Magdalena Roze.

9. The evening’s entertainment was a spectacle.

10. Main course – grilled striploin with Dijon and

salsa verde. 11. The Amex team celebrate.

6

8

7

10 9

PHOTOGRAPHY STEVEN WOODBURN

PHOTOGRAPHY BONNIE COUMBE

14 delicious.com.au

DELICIOUS. @ SURRY HILLS

12

“Thanks to all our @deliciousaus

friends, contributors and

colleagues who came, saw and

conquered Surry Hills!”

– KERRIE McCALLUM

13

14

15

DELICIOUS. @ SYDNEY CBD

“WE’RE THROWING

EVERYTHING WE HAVE

BEHIND CELEBRATING

OUR AMAZING

HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY.”

– PHOEBE WOOD

20

21

12. Gary Mehigan, Naysla Edwards, Manu

Feildel, Kerrie McCallum and Matt Preston.

13. The Surry Hills free pop up, complete with

our own double-decker bus. 14. Anna Polyviou

and Casey Hardaker. 15. Mitch Edwards and

Mark McKie. 16. Starward Whisky cocktails are

served. 17. Team delicious. on hand to make a

memorable event. 18. Anthony Puharich and

Matt Wilkinson. 19. San Pellegrino’s new

flavoured sparkling water range was one of the

refreshing offerings. 20. Jordan Toft, Sophie

Clapin and delicious. food director Phoebe

Wood. 21. The Sydney CBD free pop up in busy

Pitt Street Mall.

19

18

16

17

DELICIOUS. ON SOCIAL >>>

@deliciousAUS

“

PLUS

MARTA

DUSSELDORP

Stephen Peacocke

JOLENE

ANDERSON

David Speers

SAMANTHA

ARMYTAGE

Alison Bell

SARAH

WILSON

ASH

BARTY

PLUS How the world’s

NOVEMBER 24, 2019

number one

became Australia’s

E BARBER

PLUS

Ben Elton

“I’m a lot older, but

not any mellower”

Shaynna Blaze

gets the blues

Christian O’Connell on the

Melbourne-Sydney rivalry

David Campbell

“The parenting test

that nothing can

ou for”

PLUS

CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE

Ideas for her, for him

...and for the kids

ROBBIE WILLIAMS

“At 45, golf is my

new addiction”

BRYNNE EDELSTEN

Looks back on THAT

wedding 10 years on

MARCIA HINES

“ ’ lways made

ted choices”

PL

The question that brea

Kate Ceberano’s he

Sam Armytage: “I’

decided to abdica

from my famil

Dita Von Teese

“You can’t jus

be sexy or pretty

Celebrating

our third

anniversary

PLUS

ANDY MURRAY

CATHERINE DENEUVE

REBECCA JUDD

CARRIE BICKMORE

ALTON MASON

NEALE WHITAKER

ROSIE PEREZ

JO LAMBLE

JUDE LAW

DECEMBER 1, 2019

PLUS

he power of this

k and its history...

y doesn’t it make

ense to people?”

essica

Mauboy

on location in the

Northern Territory

NE 16, 2019

US

ni Hazlehurst

an’t afford

retire. And I

uldn’t if I could”

“

a

“I don’t take any of

this for granted.

I had so many years

of planning, but the

one thing I so dearly

wanted couldn’t

be planned”

RODGER CORSER

“Look, don’t trust

me with your life”

FATHER’S DAY

The 2019 gift guide

ELYSE KNOWLES

When dad’s the word

DANIELLE MACDONALD

“Why are Sandra Bullock

and Jennifer Aniston

talking about me?!”

Y 26, 2019

US

PL

JULIA MOR

“A romance w

Dr Chris Brown

not off the tab

SAMANTHA

The high-profi

escort on gettin

sober and finding Go

ROD STEWART

“It’s time for a

film about mestarring

my sons”

is Theroux

e question

anted to ask

hael Jackson”

HRISTIE HAYES

N RETURNING TO

V AND LEAVING

ER MARRIAGE

ellie Hush:

rom high fashion

o the high street

HO’S (STILL)

FRAID OF

AOMI WOLF?

avid Campbell:

hy 2019 is all about

revenge of the nerds

AUSTRALIA’S MOST READ

SUNDAY MAGAZINE

PLUS

“

PLUS

RACHEL GRIFFITHS

takes us inside

the making of

Muriel’s Wedding

KSENIJA LUKICH

“Channing Tatum

was a bit smarmy”

CARRIE BICKMORE

on her shopping

misadventu

“Me?

up winter f

Vir

“Do wha

TRACEY SPICER

uncovers the #MeToo

stories you haven’t heard

JARROD SCOTT

on a mission to save

the Great Barrier Reef

MEL MCLAUGHLIN

“I m still so angry

at what my late

sister went through”

“As a fami

we are

fighters.

We don’t

give up”

“THIS DISH CALLS FOR A DARK, DENSE AND

SAVOURY RED THAT WORKS PERFECTLY WITH

THE RICHNESS OF THE DUCK.”

WINE MATCH: CONESTABILE DELLA

STAFFA ‘IL ROSSO’ – SAGRANTINO,

SANGIOVESE, CANAIOLO –

UMBRIA, ITALY 2016

For the fermented chilli, place all the

ingredients in a food processor and whiz,

scraping down the sides occasionally, until

a rough paste. Transfer chilli mixture to a

sterilised jar with a lid and stand at room

temperature (about 22°C-23°C) for 1 week.

Fermented chilli can be stored in the

fridge for up to one year.

Bring a large saucepan three-quarters

full of salted water to the boil over high

heat. Cook spaghetti according to packet

instructions.

Meanwhile, heat a large non-stick,

heavy-based, deep frypan with oil over

high heat. Season mackerel all over then

sear, skin-side down, for 1-2 minutes or

until the meat just starts to cook.

Add 3 large tbs of chilli paste then stir

frequently but gently to break up the fish

slightly and prevent paste from sticking.

Add wine, scraping the bottom of the

pan with a wooden spoon, then add stock.

When pasta is ready, add straight from the

saucepan (you will need pasta water to

keep the dish from drying out).

Reduce heat to medium and simmer

gently for 2-3 minutes, then stir in the

parsley. Season to taste. Add butter,

reduce heat to low and toss the pan

until butter melts and the sauce is

a coating consistency. Use extra

pasta water to adjust the sauce if

needed. Season to taste and serve with

lemon wedges.

IN SEASON.

WINE MATCH: VARNELLI ‘PUNCH ALLA

FIAMMA MANDARINO’ – MARCHE, ITALY

“A sweeter style amaro with citrus flavours.”

We can stop events.

We can stop sporting matches.

But we cannot stop feeding people.

We need your help to keep our

wheels turning. $1 = 2 meals.

Donate at ozharvest.or

INSIDER.

VINOTHERAPY

Suffering from wine withdrawals? Unico Zelo’s

Coronavino Care Package will sort you out.

The mixed-dozen cases are hand-selected by the

winemakers and delivered to your door. Make sure

you save a few glasses for ‘digital Happy Hour’,

which runs at 5pm every day, Adelaide time.

Founder Brendan Carter will stream live from the

Unico Zelo Facebook page, where people can join

him for a drink and a chat.

BLOWN AWAY

Add a little ’50s flair to your table with Riedel’s

new Pop Art-inspired decanters. The long, thin

shape of the Cornetto Confetti prevents overexposure,

making it perfect for a spectrum of

wines. Available in five colours. $499.95 each,

riedel.com

FANCY CANS

Non-alcoholic spirit Seedlip has

joined the premix party. The trio of

gin-less tins include Seedlip Grove

42 with lemongrass tonic, Seedlip

Spice 94 with grapefruit tonic and

Seedlip Garden 108 with cucumber

tonic. Available from Dan Murphy’s

for $18.99 per 4-pack.

HAVE A

BALL

Learn how to make

your own bubble tea

beverages at home

with The Boba Book

(Penguin, $36.99).

OFF THE RACK

Byron Bay’s first boutique wine store has opened on

Jonson Street, with an impressive selection of natural,

organic and biodynamic wines. Luna Wine Store is

the joint venture of three sommeliers, and boasts

a 300+ strong collection that has something for

everyone, from the wine geek to the everyday drinker.

lunawinestore.com

Easter may be over, but if the

cocoa craving lives on, try the newest

addition to Woodford Reserve’s Master

Collection, a chocolate malted rye

bourbon whiskey. The 2019 release is

made from a long-roasted rye grain to

reveal notes of dark chocolate spice,

cherry fruit and toasted oak. $225,

from woodfordreserve.com.au

26 delicious.com.au

FOOD

FOR

THOUGHT

KEFIR

S E A S O N A L

UPDATE

Top produce picks by Mike

McEnearney, head chef of Kitchen

by Mike and creative director of

Carriageworks Farmers’ Market.

a 1L glass jar.

COCONUT & TURMERIC

KEFIR WITH GINGER &

CAYENNE

SERVES 4

Begin this recipe at least

1 day ahead. You will need

3 young coconuts (substitute coconut

water)

1-2 probiotic capsules or 2 tbs water kefir

grains (both from health food shops)

1 1 /2 tbs finely grated fresh turmeric or

1 1 /2 tsp ground turmeric

1 1 /2 tbs finely grated ginger

Pinch of cayenne pepper (more if desired)

Preheat oven to 150°C. Wash a 1L glass jar

and a non-metal spoon in hot soapy water,

then run them through the dishwasher on a

hot-rinse cycle to sterilise. Alternatively,

place the jar and spoon in a large saucepan

filled with water and boil for 10 minutes.

Place on a baking tray in the oven until dry.

Cool completely at room temperature.

delicious.com.au/food-files

For more tips on making the

most of ingredients.

KEFIR

If you’re feeling a little sluggish, Pete Evans’ supercharged

water kefir might just be the lift you need.

Meanwhile, open the coconuts by

cutting off the tops. Strain the coconut

water into sterilised jar. If using a probiotic

capsule, open capsule and add probiotic

powder or kefir grains to the coconut

water, then add turmeric, ginger and

cayenne. Stir well using sterilised spoon.

Cover with a piece of muslin and secure

with a rubber band. Place in the pantry for

24-48 hours to ferment. The kefir is ready

when the water turns from relatively clear

to cloudy white.

Taste test the kefir after 24-30 hours. It

should taste sour, with no sweetness left,

like coconut beer. Some batches are fizzier

than others but all are beneficial.

If it still tastes sweet, place it back in the

pantry for remaining fermentation time.

When you’re happy with the flavour, pour

through a sieve to remove kefir grains (if

using) and return kefir to the jar. Store in

the fridge for up to 2 months. Kefir grains

can be left in coconut water in the fridge

until you make your next batch of kefir

(refresh coconut water every 5 days or so).

Follow Pete

@chefpeteevans

Follow Mike

@mikemcenearney

DAYS ARE COOLER and a

tad shorter. Our bodies crave

the nourishment the shifting

season demands and, luckily,

these months give up some

of the year’s best, most

varied bounty: mandarins, persimmons,

pears, avocados and root vegetables.

When there are tonnes of mandarins

around they are perfect to juice. I make a

tonic by slow juicing them, adding oregano,

and half a chilli, which gets your blood

rushing. The oregano has antibacterial and

antiviral qualities to help keep the good

bugs in your tummy. Grab some mandarins

from Watkins Orchard at Carriageworks.

Persimmons are in good shape right

now. They have a tonne of vitamin C to

help boost immune systems. Slice thinly

and use in a salad with olive oil, preserved

lemons, capers and marjoram. Eden from

Fanelli Organics offers persimmons from

a grower within his co-op.

Pears are super versatile and come in

many varieties. I use them up in chutneys

and jams, however my favourite is to bottle

them in sugar syrup and put them away to

use throughout the year. Lesley and

Quentin at Kurrawong Organics has a good

stock of beurre bosc and other varieties.

We have producers at Carriageworks

that grow only avocados. Look out for

Bob’s Farm and Burbnar Fruit. High in

monounsaturated fatty acids as well as

omega 6, avos can help lower cholesterol.

Besides smashed avo on toast, I like to eat

them for breakfast with a dollop of miso

and a drizzle of olive oil.

My favourite root vegetable right now is

the celeriac. It’s great roasted or mashed

to serve with different types of meat, or try

it grated raw into salads. Look out for

good-quality celeriac at Block 11.

TAGLIATELLE WITH

BEEF SHORT RIB RAGU

SERVES 4-6

Begin this recipe 4 hours ahead.

1 /4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil

1 each onion, celery stalk and carrot,

finely chopped

1 tsp smoked paprika

1.8kg beef short ribs, cut

into individual ribs

1 1 /2 cups (375ml) red wine

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

750g bottle tomato passata

2 bay leaves (fresh or dried)

1 /2 bunch oregano sprigs,

roughly chopped

500g tagliatelle

Grated parmesan, to serve

THERE IS SOMETHING about ragu that soothes the soul. It’s a dish that’s perfectly

at home in different settings – from a casual weeknight dinner with friends,

to a celebratory main course the whole family can dig into. Whatever the scene,

a good ragu is comforting in every way.

I like to wait for a cold, quiet night to cook this rich dish. I say quiet because hearing the

thick, dark sauce bubbling away on the stove top is a great indication of when it is done.

The bubbles start off small and end up big and rolling after a good few hours. Cooking

isn’t just about sight, smell and taste – you have to listen, too. You can cook this ragu

sauce a few days ahead and store in the fridge, or you can freeze it in batches for comfort

food in a flash. I’ve opted for tagliatelle in this recipe – I love how the sauce clings to the

long, flat noodles. But really, any pasta shape will work.

This is a classic Italian dish that, I think,

should be served with a big glass of red wine

and plenty of sourdough to mop up the

moreish sauce.

TO THE SAUCE

It’s the season for warm bowls of pasta, and

our comfort-food expert, MasterChef ‘s Larissa

Takchi, brings her short-rib ragu to the table.

@larissatakchi

delicious.com.au/recipes

For more super-tasty dishes

from the MasterChef star.

Heat 2 tbs oil in a large heavy-based

saucepan over low heat. Add onion,

celery, carrot and paprika, and cook,

stirring occasionally, for 10-15 minutes until

caramelised. Transfer to

a large bowl and wipe the pan clean.

Heat remaining 1 tbs oil in the same pan

over high heat. Add ribs and cook, turning

frequently, for 6-8 minutes until browned

all over. Season and transfer to a bowl lined

with paper towel to drain.

Return pan to high heat (do not wipe it

clean) and add wine, scraping bottom of

pan with a spoon. Add cooked vegetables,

ribs, garlic, passata, bay leaves, half the

oregano and 300ml water, and stir gently

to combine. Bring to the boil, reduce heat

to low and cover with a lid. Cook, skimming

fat occasionally, for 3 hours-3 hours 30

minutes until meat falls off the bone.

Shred meat, discarding bones and

sinew. Add meat and remaining oregano

to sauce. Reduce heat to low and simmer,

uncovered, for 10-15 minutes until slightly

reduced. Discard bay leaves and season.

Bring a large saucepan of salted water

to the boil and cook pasta according to

packet instructions until al dente. Drain,

reserving 100ml pasta cooking liquid,

and transfer pasta to the ragu. Toss to

combine, adding the reserved pasta liquid.

Scatter over parmesan and freshly ground

black pepper to serve.

PHOTOGRAPHY ANSON SMART STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS MERCHANDISING EMMALY STEWART

28 delicious.com.au

For Chef Louis Tikaram, joy is the serenity of being first in the kitchen,

while inspiration is quality ingredients.

Confidence comes from the balance between the producer, the product,

the palate and his creativity.

He’s driven, and finds his reward in teaching younger chefs and gaining

the gratitude of diners.

Louis Tikaram is a passionate craftsman. He is a PorkStar.

porkstar.com.au

Louis Tikaram. OPPOSITE:

Seafood is a highlight on

the Stanley menu, including

these Mooloolaba prawns;

Fraser Isle spanner crab;

Tikaram’s famed sweet-andsour

pork.

The delicious. Produce Awards returns to celebrate the growers and makers behind the

country’s top ingredients. State judge and Stanley chef Louis Tikaram tells us why he

champions Australia’s best, and his hopes for the future of producers and restaurateurs.

THIS YEAR, ONE of Australia’s hottest talents, Louis Tikaram,

joined Queensland’s State Judges for the 2020 delicious. Produce

Awards – now in its 16th year. Tikaram took his place alongside

other State judges, Darren Robertson, Adam Wolfers, Jake

Nicolson, Spencer Patrick and

Cameron Matthews, to unearth

the country’s best produce,

along with the extraordinary

producers who grow, catch,

supply and cook with it.

Raised on a 110-acre farm in

Mullumbimby, in the Northern

Rivers region of New South

Wales, Tikaram started his career as an apprentice at Longrain,

before working his way through the kitchens of Tetsuya Wakuda

and Brent Savage. After five years heading up Los Angeles

restaurant, E.P & L.P, Tikaram returned to Australia last year to

“IT COMES DOWN TO THE

QUALITY OF THE AIR, SOIL,

AND WATER, AND THE

RESPECT THE FARMERS GIVE

OUR PRODUCE.”

become executive chef at Stanley, a Cantonese diner at Brisbane’s

Howard Smith Wharves, which recently shut its doors as part of

the COVID-19 pandemic nationwide restaurant closures.

“Obviously the knock-on effect will hurt our producers

massively, with restaurants

closing or slowing down. Many

industries have been affected

and people will be watching

what they spend, so it will take

some time to get back to what it

was. But Stanley will come back

stronger than ever.”

And the quality of our produce

will no doubt help with this comeback. “It’s been great working

with Australian produce again,” Tikaram said. “After five years in

the US, I can say everything here is amazing, even the humble

capsicum or carrot. The flavour and texture blow my mind.”

MEAT MARKET.

Colin Fassnidge and Anthony Puharich

are bringing the kebab to the people,

with a family-friendly version that packs a punch.

THE CHEF AND

THE BUTCHER

A: This is our dirty kebab!

A: The Aussie-fied

C: As the chef and the butcher growing

kebab.

up, this was a staple in our day-to-day diet.

C: The Aussie-fied,

A: Absolutely.

kid-friendly kebab.

C: Where the kebab is now and where it’s

A: Have you heard

come from is quite something. When I was

about the kebab cab?

younger it was the cheap peasant’s choice.

It’s a special cab that

It sustained us for years growing up. But

delivers kebabs.

now it’s come to the forefront. Now it’s

C: They’re onto

trendy. So how do we modernise it like

something

we’ve done with other food?

there…

chicken, shaking pan and stirring

A: Let’s use chicken marylands. I was

thinking instead of a shawarma-on-the-spit

thing, we could roast the marylands, then

CHICKEN SHAWARMA

WITH FRIED CHICKPEAS

occasionally, for 10-12 minutes until chicken

skin is golden and starting to crisp. Place

the pan in the oven and roast for 25-30

shred all the meat. And use that in the

SERVES 4-6

minutes until chicken is cooked. Remove

shawarma with the garlic sauce.

from oven and cool slightly. Shred meat

C: Yes, it has to have garlic sauce. You have

pita bread, then I was thinking as we

visited [Harvey Norman’s executive

chairman] Gerry Harvey’s cucumber farm

last year we could use his Qukes? Then red

cabbage, red onion and coriander.

A: I like it.

C: And my secret to this is canned

chickpeas, tossed with cayenne pepper

and paprika, then fried until crispy.

A: This is a Turkish, Lebanese, Middle

Eastern shawarma with an Australian twist.

Can we do it with a chicken gravy?

C: Chicken gravy with the fried chickpeas

and spices! And we’ll call it chicken and

chicks instead of chips. The chickpeas

go nice and crispy so replace the usual

hot chips.

A: This is the hangover cure for Aussies.

It’s had a comeback because it’s just tasty

comfort food. We all need that sometimes.

C: Forget about a dirty kebab. This is good

quality. Quality chicken, a good garlic

sauce, and a lovely chicken gravy. It’s the

late-night dish you and your parents ate

that now your kids can eat, too!


1 onion, finely chopped

5 thyme sprigs

4 (1kg total weight) chicken marylands

1 tbs plain flour

1 cup (250ml) chicken stock

400g can chickpeas, drained well

Pinch cayenne pepper

1 /2 tsp paprika

1 tbs cornflour

Store-bought pita or Lebanese bread

Garlic sauce, to serve

1 packet Qukes (baby cucumber), sliced

thickly lengthwise

1 /4 red cabbage, shredded

1 red onion, thinly sliced into rings (we

use a mandoline)

1 /4 bunch coriander, leaves picked

Preheat oven 200°C. Heat half of the oil in

a large heavy-based ovenproof frypan over

medium heat. Add onion and thyme, and

cook, stirring for 1-2 minutes until coated

in oil. Add the chicken, skin side down,

making sure you push the onions to the

edges of the pan. Cook onions and

and place in a bowl. Discard bones and

skin and leave the pan on the heat.

Heat chicken pan over medium-high

heat. Scatter over flour and cook, stirring

for 30 seconds to 1 minute. Stir in stock

and bring to the boil. Reduce heat to low

and simmer, stirring frequently, for 12-15

minutes until thickened. Season to taste.

Strain chicken gravy through a fine sieve

into a heatproof bowl. Cover and keep

warm until ready to serve. Reserve

shredded chicken mixture in a separate

bowl. Set aside until ready to use.

Place the chickpeas in a large bowl with

the cayenne pepper, paprika and cornflour.

Season to taste and toss well to combine.

Heat remaining oil in a large frypan over

medium heat. Add chickpea mixture to

pan and fry, tossing frequently, for 6-8

minutes until crisp and golden. Transfer to

paper towel, season to taste. Set aside .

Place pita bread on a plate and spread

with as much of the garlic sauce as you like.

Top with chicken, Qukes, cabbage, red

onion, coriander and fried chickpeas.

Spoon over chicken gravy to serve.

INTERVIEW SAMANTHA JONES PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY

FOOD PHOTOGRAPHY MARK ROPER STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS MERCHANDISING EMMALY STEWART

32 delicious.com.au

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A BONUS COOKBOOK

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DO YOU HAVE WHAT IT TAKES TO BAKE WITH THE GREATS?

If you believe Sundays are for sponge cakes not sit-ups, then this club is for you.

We love baking and we love people who bake, so our monthly challenges are here

to give you the chance to win big. Here’s how:

• Get riled up and ready to challenge one of Australia’s greatest bakers

• Visit delicious.com.au/bakeclub to watch the recipe video for that round

• Bake the challenger’s recipe and post your version using the tag below

• Go into the running to win: this round, a Smeg 50s Retro Style 4 Slice Toaster

Follow us:

#BAKEITDELICIOUS

@deliciousbakeclub

facebook.com/groups/deliciousbakeclub

WIN! PRIZE

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DELICIOUS.COM.AU/BAKECLUB

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AND OVER ONLY. TOTAL PRIZE POOL VALUED AT UP TO $209. FULL TERMS AND CONDITIONS AVAILABLE AT DELICIOUS.COM.AU/BAKECLUB.

AUTUMN’S BEST RECIPES 40 >> PASTA BAKES TO COMFORT 50 >> NASHVILLE-STYLE HOT CHICKEN 58 >> SHANE DELIA’S

NEXT-LEVEL BAR SNACKS 66 >> SOOTHING SOUPS ARE ALL WE NEED RIGHT NOW 74 >> SIMPLE, NOURISHING RECIPES

THE FAMILY WILL LOVE 82 >> MATT MORAN’S BEST-EVER CAKES 90 >> INDULGE IN THESE WARMING CRUMBLES 98

SAVOUR

Julia Busuttil

Nishimura shares

her top family

recipes (p 82).

As the

seasons

turn…

…so does our list of favourite things to eat. Kirsten

Jenkins’ generous new dishes and drinks have cosy

written all over them. Slow-cooked brisket, creamy mash

and a warming caramel-and-apple hot toddy are just some

destined for a best-of collection, and we’re taking note.

STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS

PHOTOGRAPHY ANSON SMART

MERCHANDISING EMMALY STEWART

AUTUMN MENU.

Marjoram & garlic baguette

with spanakopita dip

(recipe p 43).

delicious.com.au 41

“The slow-cooked

caramelised

zucchini is perfect

with the sweet-andsalty

clams. Don’t be

tempted to speed up

the zucchini

cooking time.

Slow and steady

will be rewarded

in the end.”

@kirstenljenkins

Pasta with zucchini, garlic,

chilli and vongole

42 delicious.com.au

Warm spiced Montenegro,

orange and soaked prunes

Sour cream, parsnip & potato

mash (recipe p 43).

44 delicious.com.au

AUTUMN MENU.

Broccolini, sage and lemon

butter, currant pangrattato

(recipe p 46).

AUTUMN MENU.

Place potato and parsnip in a large

saucepan, cover with cold water and

season generously with salt. Place over

high heat, bring to the boil, and cook for

20-25 minutes until tender. Drain, then

transfer to a tray and stand for 10-15

minutes to dry out slightly.

Meanwhile, heat the milk and butter in a

small saucepan over medium heat. Pass

potato and parsnip through a fine sieve

back into large saucepan. Mix in warm milk

mixture, stir through sour cream and

season. Top with extra butter to serve.

CHERRY TOMATO, HARISSA &

BALSAMIC BRISKET

SERVES 8-10

Begin this recipe 1 day ahead.

2 tbs each paprika and brown sugar

2 tsp garlic powder

1 tsp onion salt

2kg beef brisket, trimmed


2 garlic cloves, roughly chopped

2 tbs tomato paste

1 /4 cup (60ml) tomato sauce

1 tbs harissa paste

1 /3 cup (80ml) maple syrup

1 /3 cup (80ml) balsamic vinegar

2 x 400g cans cherry tomatoes

Preheat oven to 140°C. Combine paprika,

sugar, garlic powder and onion salt in a

bowl and season. Rub spice mixture evenly

around brisket and chill for 30 minutes, or

if time permits, 24 hours. Place remaining

ingredients, brisket and 2 cups (500ml)

water in a large heavy-based high-sided

pan with a lid, cover and roast for 10 hours,

turning brisket halfway through, or until

meat is tender. Remove excess fat from

sauce and discard. Remove 2 cups (500ml)

sauce and reserve for another use. Slice

meat and return to the sauce to serve.

BROCCOLINI, SAGE AND LEMON

BUTTER, CURRANT PANGRATTATO

SERVES 4-6 AS A SIDE

1 Earl Grey tea bag

2 tbs currants

2 tbs extra virgin olive oil

1 cup coarse sourdough breadcrumbs

60g unsalted butter

1 /2 bunch sage, leaves picked

Finely grated zest of 1 lemon

2 (380g) bunches broccolini, trimmed

Place tea bag in a bowl with 1 cup (250ml)

boiling water for 1 minute to infuse.

Remove and discard tea bag, add currants

to the bowl and set aside until cooled

completely. Drain, discard liquid and set

the currants aside.

Heat oil in a medium, non-stick frypan

over medium-high heat, add breadcrumbs

and cook, stirring, for 4 minutes or until

golden brown. Add currants and cook for

a further minute or until warmed through.

Transfer to a plate and wipe the pan clean.

Return pan to medium heat and add

butter. Cook for 2-3 minutes until golden

brown. Add sage and cook for 30 seconds

or until crisp, then remove from heat, add

lemon zest and set aside to keep warm.

Place broccolini in a saucepan of

boiling water and blanch for 3-4 minutes

until just cooked. Transer to a serving

plate, drizzle over the burnt butter and

sage leaves, and top with the currant

breadcrumbs to serve.

PUMPKIN CAKE WITH MARSALA

RICOTTA CREAM

SERVES 10-12

900g butternut pumpkin, peeled,

chopped into 5cm pieces

1 tbs mixed spice

2 tsp ground ginger

3 cups (450g) self-raising flour

1 tsp bicarb soda

200g unsalted butter, softened

2 cups (440g) caster sugar

3 eggs

2 tsp vanilla extract

1 cup (250ml) buttermilk

2 (550g) large Granny Smith apples,

peeled, grated

PUMPKIN SEED PRALINE

150g caster sugar

2 tbs toasted pumpkin seeds

MARSALA SYRUP

1 cup (250ml) Marsala

2 /3 cup (150g) caster sugar

RICOTTA CREAM

100g icing sugar mixture

250g cream cheese

500g ricotta

Preheat oven to 180°C. Grease two 20cm

round cake pans and line base and sides

with baking paper. Place pumpkin on a tray

lined with baking paper and roast for 1

hour or until tender. Transfer to a blender

and whiz until smooth (you should have

450g pumpkin puree).

Sift mixed spice, ground ginger, flour

and bicarb soda into a large bowl. Beat

butter and sugar in a stand mixer with the

paddle attachment until thick and pale.

Add eggs, 1 at a time, beating well after

each addition. Add vanilla and mix until

well combined. Fold through flour mixture,

a pinch of salt flakes, pumpkin puree,

buttermilk and grated apple until just

combined. Divide mixture between pans

and bake for 60-65 minutes until a skewer

inserted in the centre of each cake comes

out clean. Remove from the oven and cool

in pans for 10 minutes before turning out

onto a wire rack to cool completely.

For the praline, line a tray with foil. Place

sugar in a small non-stick saucepan over

medium-high heat. Cook, swirling pan, for

3-4 minutes until sugar has dissolved and

mixture is golden. Scatter pumpkin seeds

over prepared tray in an even layer and

carefully pour caramel over, tipping tray so

it’s a thin layer. Set aside at room

temperature for 30 minutes or until set,

then break into shards.

Meanwhile, for the Marsala syrup, place

Marsala, sugar and 1 /2 cup (125ml) water in

a small saucepan over low heat and stir

until sugar dissolves. Increase heat to high,

bring to the boil and cook for 10-15

minutes until thick and syrupy. Remove

from the heat and set aside to cool.

For the ricotta cream, place icing sugar

mixture and cream cheese in a stand mixer

with the paddle attachment and beat until

smooth. Add ricotta and beat until

smooth and combined.

Spread one-quarter of the icing on

top of one of the cakes and sandwich

with remaining cake. Spread remaining

icing on top and scatter over praline.

Drizzle over the Marsala syrup to serve.

Cherry tomato, harissa &

balsamic brisket

delicious.com.au 47

CARAMEL & APPLE HOT TODDY

WITH CINNAMON

SERVES 4


2 /3 cup (165ml) apple juice

4 cinnamon quills

2 /3 cup (165ml) apple pie liqueur (we used

Moreau brand – substitute Calvados)

Whipped cream, to serve

Ground cinnamon, to dust

Place sugar in a medium heavy-based

saucepan over high heat with 1 tbs of water.

Cook, swirling pan, for 5-6 minutes or until

golden and caramel. Using a metal spoon

(and being mindful of the steam), stir in

2 cups (500ml) water and swirl pan until

caramel and water are combined. Stir in

apple juice and cinnamon quills, then stir in

the liqueur. Divide among glasses, spoon

over whipped cream and dust with

cinnamon to serve.

48 delicious.com.au

AUTUMN MENU.

“This cake is an interpretation

of the classic sweet pumpkin pie.

A subtly spiced cake is layered

with a whipped ricotta cream

and a drizzle of Marsala.”

Pumpkin cake with Marsala

ricotta cream (recipe p 46).

Baked ravioli with chorizo,

thyme & onion breadcrumbs

(recipe p 54).

“THIS LASAGNE IS ONE OF THE

EASIEST – AND TASTIEST –

PASTA BAKES YOU CAN MAKE.

AND IT’S THE RECIPE TO SEE

YOU THROUGH WINTER.”

“ANY ONE OF

THESE GOLDEN,

BUBBLING PASTA

BAKES IS A MUST

FOR A GREAT NIGHT

IN. SERVE WITH A

GLASS OF YOUR

FAVOURITE WINE,

OF COURSE.”

Chicken, leek &

ricotta rigatoni

Creamy mushroom

and cheddar bake

PASTA BAKES.

then transfer to a 1.6L baking dish. Mix

ricotta and cream together in a bowl until

smooth then spoon over pasta. Combine

breadcrumbs, thyme, oil and parmesan in

a bowl and rub with your fingertips to coat

breadcrumbs in oil. Scatter over pasta and

bake for 25 minutes or until breadcrumbs

are golden. Serve immediately.

FREEFORM PORK & FENNEL

LASAGNE WITH BACON BECHAMEL

(COVER RECIPE)

SERVES 6-8


1 each fennel and onion, finely chopped


1kg pork and fennel sausages, casings

removed

1 cup (250ml) white wine

1 /3 cup chopped sage leaves, plus extra

leaves to garnish

900ml tomato sugo (seasoned tomato

sauce – from delis and Italian grocers)

250g (about 6) fresh lasagne sheets

(substitute cooked dried sheets), torn

in half

150g grated mozzarella

BACON BECHAMEL

20g unsalted butter

6 smoky bacon rashers, finely chopped


2 tbs plain flour

2 cups (500ml) milk

40g finely grated parmesan

Preheat oven to 180°C. Heat oil in a large,

deep ovenproof pan over medium heat.

Add fennel, onion and garlic with a pinch

of salt flakes and cook, stirring, for

15 minutes or until softened. Add sausage

meat and cook for 15 minutes, breaking up

with a wooden spoon, until browned all

over. Add wine and sage and bring to a

simmer. Cook for 3 minutes or until wine

is reduced by about half. Add tomato

sugo and 1 cup (250ml) water. Bring to a

simmer and cook for 25 minutes or until

thickened and reduced. Season to taste.

For the bechamel, place butter, bacon

and onion in a cold saucepan over low

heat. Gradually bring to heat, stirring

regularly, to render fat from bacon. Cook

for 10 minutes or until bacon is rendered

and onion has softened but not coloured.

Increase heat to medium-low. Stir in flour

and cook for 2 minutes to cook out flour.

Add milk in 2 batches, whisking to ensure

no lumps form. Increase heat to medium

and bring to a simmer. Cook for 5 minutes

or until slightly thickened. Remove from

heat, stir parmesan and season.

Push torn lasagne sheets into hot sauce

so they are submerged. Pour over

bechamel and top with extra sage leaves

then scatter with mozzarella. Place on a

tray and bake for 30-35 minutes until

golden, then serve.

ONE-POT LAMB SHANK, BLACK

OLIVE AND CHILLI PASTA BAKE

SERVES 6-8

Begin this recipe at least 3 hours ahead.


3 (about 1.2 kg) forequarter lamb shanks

1 each onion and carrot, finely chopped

1 tsp each roughly crushed chilli flakes

and black peppercorns

2 tsp fennel seeds

2 cups (500ml) beef stock

1 /2 cup (125ml) red wine

2 x 400g cans chopped tomatoes

140g tomato paste

5 bay leaves

3 rosemary sprigs

2 tbs red wine vinegar

140g pitted kalamata olives, chopped

2 cups basil leaves

300g shell pasta, cooked to packet

instructions, drained, refreshed

50g finely grated parmesan

160g coarsely grated mozzarella

Heat oil in a large heavy-based ovenproof

pan over medium-high heat. Season lamb

and add to the pan. Cook, turning, for 8-10

minutes until browned all over. Remove

from pan and set aside. Add onion and

carrot, and cook, stirring, for 6 minutes

until softened. Add spices and stir for

1 minute or until fragrant. Add stock, wine,

canned tomato, tomato paste, bay leaves

and rosemary. Bring to a simmer then

return lamb to the pan. Cover and simmer

for 3 hours or until lamb is very tender.

Preheat oven to 180°C. Discard lamb

bones, rosemary sprigs and bay leaves.

Add vinegar to the sauce and simmer for

2 minutes then stir through olives, half the

basil. Season to taste, then stir in pasta.

Scatter with parmesan and mozzarella and

bake for 25 minutes until cheese is golden.

Top with remaining basil to serve.

CREAMY MUSHROOM AND

CHEDDAR BAKE

SERVES 6

60g unsalted butter



600g chopped mixed mushrooms (we

used chestnut and Swiss brown)

1 /4 cup (60ml) dry white wine

20g chopped dried porcini mushrooms,

soaked in 1 /2 cup (125ml) boiling water

2 tsp sweet smoked paprika

2 tbs thyme leaves, plus extra to scatter

1 1 /2 tbs Worcestershire sauce

1 tbs plain flour

250g sour cream

1 cup (250ml) pure (thin) cream

200g grated tasty cheddar or mozzarella

300g penne, cooked according to packet

instructions, drained, refreshed

Preheat oven to 180°C. Melt butter in a

large frypan over low heat. Add garlic and

onion, and cook, stirring, for 6 minutes or

until fragrant and softened. Add mixed

mushrooms, reserving about 1 cup of the

best-looking mushrooms to garnish.

Increase heat to medium and cook, stirring

regularly, for 10 minutes or until

mushrooms are golden. Add wine and

simmer for 2 minutes, then add porcini

and soaking water, paprika, thyme and

Worcestershire. Season. Increase heat to

medium and cook for 5 minutes or until

liquid has reduced. Stir in flour and cook for

1 minute to thicken slightly. Add sour

cream and bring to a simmer. Season with

salt and black pepper. Stir in cream, half

cheddar and cooked pasta. Transfer to a

baking dish and top with remaining

cheddar and reserved mushrooms. Bake

for 20-25 minutes until golden, serve.

EXTRACT.

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT:

Nashville’s infamous Hattie B’s

Chicken; results in smiles all round;

a dive bar; serving hot chicken

accompaniments. OPPOSITE:

A scene from the South.

EXTRACT.

I HAVE THIS love of fried chicken that borders on

obsession. That moment when a perfectly fried bird

has that crunch and is seasoned just right, the herbs

and spices so perfectly balanced. It transports me

– a moment of happiness in an otherwise

maddening pursuit of perfecting my craft. I knew it as soon as I took that first bite of

Nashville hot bird – I was a goner. I had to know how it was done, what made it so

goddamn delicious.

Then there’s the feeling you get when you cook a piece just so, spending the time

preparing everything just perfect, the spices tried and tested, each gram measured

and freshly ground, the flour sifted and sifted again, making it as light as possible

before folding through the spices, never rushing; that moment you drop a piece of

chicken ready to fry into a bubbling and sizzling skillet.

It must be strange for those who know to see something so uniquely Nashville in

the hands of strangers so far from home. I’m just trying to carry the flag and stay as

true to the spirit as I can. Everything we do at The Hot Chicken Project comes from

a place of absolute admiration for what those originators of hot chicken have done.

I wanted to create a place with substance, a place that could become part of the

community. And the food, of course, somewhere that would honour the legacy that

is now set so firmly in Tennessee folklore.

And I didn’t want to just take it, all that hard work. That creation. I wanted to share

it. I wanted as many people as possible to

experience the same joy it gives me, every bite,

still to this day.

This is an edited extract from The Hot Chicken

Project by Aaron Turner (Hardie Grant, $48).

MAKE IT RIGHT

THE TEMPERATURE

“I was eating a piece of Southern fried

chicken that was so perfect in temperature,

I was compelled to ask the cook how it was

done. ‘Honey, it’s simple. You gotta have

that chicken outta the fridge at least two

hours before the fry, otherwise your

chicken gonna be no good.’”

THE CRUNCH

“It’s the attention during the process of 6

minutes 20 seconds of hot oil acrobatics

and ninja-like focus that I love. The key is

to not overcrowd your fry basket or skillet

and shaking every 30 seconds, sometimes

moving them around in the basket, making

sure they stay submerged in the cooking

oil. That’s the key to a good, crispy wing.”

THE SIDES

“Of course, there is the all-important

pickle – sweet, salty slices of heaven that

offer blessed relief.”

@aaronigni

60 delicious.com.au

GAS

STATION

FRIED

CHICKEN

PORK AND

BEANS

FRIED

GREEN

TOMATOES

GOOD

PICKLES

EXTRACT.

PORK AND BEANS


“A rich stew of two of my favourite things,

braised smoked pork and preserved

beans. This makes a hearty side or a meal

all of its own.”

100ml extra virgin olive oil


400g smoked pork hock

80g tomato paste

1 cup (250ml) good-quality chicken stock

50ml Worcestershire sauce

1 /3 cup (80ml) molasses or black treacle

1 tbs brown sugar

1 tbs Dijon mustard

500g canned white beans, drained

1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, roughly

chopped

Heat the olive oil in a large heavy-based

saucepan with a lid over low heat. Add the

onion and cook, stirring occasionally, for

5-6 minutes until beginning to soften.

Add the pork hock, cover with lid and

cook, stirring onion frequently, for

30 minutes. Add a splash of water to keep

onion from burning.

Meanwhile, whisk together the tomato

paste and chicken stock in a bowl. Add the

Worcestershire sauce, molasses, brown

sugar and mustard to the pan. Stir in stock

mixture, season, increase heat to medium

and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to low,

cover and simmer for 2-2 hours 30 minutes

until the meat comes away from the bone.

Shred meat and place in a bowl with

braising mixture. Discard bones and skin.

Preheat oven to 180ºC.

Transfer the beans to a 3L-capacity

ovenproof dish. Spoon the shredded pork

mixture over the beans, transfer to the

oven and cook, uncovered, for 30 minutes

or until thickened and sticky. Stir through

the parsley and season with salt and white

pepper. Serve immediately.

GAS STATION FRIED CHICKEN

SERVES 4-6

“When breaking down the chicken,

separate dark meat into legs and thighs

and cut the white meat in two, leaving the

wings and the breast plate attached. The

crust coating the chicken should be soft

with just a little crunch, and the chicken

warm or at room temperature when

serving.” Begin this recipe 1 day ahead.

You will need a kitchen thermometer.

250g rock salt

1.2 kg chicken, chopped into 8 pieces

2 cups (500ml) grapeseed oil

400ml canola oil

COATING

2 cups (300g) plain flour

180g coarse polenta

1 tbs fine table salt

1 tbs celery salt

2 tbs ground black pepper

2 tbs dried oregano

To brine the chicken, place the rock salt

and 10 cups (2.5L) warm water in a large

bowl and stir to dissolve. Place the

chicken pieces into the brine and

refrigerate for 3 hours.

Meanwhile, for the coating, mix together

all the ingredients in a large bowl.

Remove chicken from the brine and

transfer to a container. Pour over the

coating mixture and push down to pack

tightly, covering the surface of the chicken.

Cover and refrigerate overnight.

Remove the chicken from the fridge and

stand for 2 hours to come to room

temperature.

Preheat oven to 100ºC. Heat the

grapeseed and canola oils together in a

large heavy-based saucepan to 180ºC.

Gently lower chicken pieces into hot oil,

maintaining the temperature as best you

can, and fry, in batches, for 5-6 minutes

until a golden crust starts to form around

the chicken pieces. (At this stage the

chicken won’t be cooked through.)

Remove chicken from hot oil, transfer to

an oven tray and bake in the oven for

35-40 minutes until the chicken is cooked

through. Season and leave to stand on the

bench for 20 minutes before serving.

FRIED GREEN TOMATOES


“Though it’s tempting to dive right in after

making these, be warned – they really hold

their heat. These are great sprinkled with

smoked paprika or freshly ground black

pepper, drizzled with honey or coated with

hot sauce, but my preferred option is to

smother the lot in ranch.” You will need a

kitchen thermometer for this recipe.

300ml apple cider vinegar

1 tbs extra virgin olive oil or melted

lard, plus extra to deep-fry

6 medium green tomatoes, cut into

1cm-thick slices

200ml buttermilk

360g coarse polenta

Combine the vinegar, olive oil or lard with

a pinch of salt and pepper in a large

bowl. Add the tomato slices and set aside

to pickle for 1 hour 30 minutes.

Pour the buttermilk into a bowl. Add the

polenta to a second bowl.

Once pickled, drain the tomato slices.

Dip a tomato slice first into the buttermilk,

then remove and shake off the excess

before placing in the bowl with the polenta

to coat all over. Transfer the coated slice to

a tray and repeat with the remainder. Set

aside in the fridge until needed (they will

keep like this for up to 1 day before frying).

When ready to cook, half-fill a heavybased

large deep saucepan or deep-fryer

with oil or lard and heat to 180ºC. Working

in 2 or 3 batches, carefully lower tomato

slices one by one and fry for 3-4 minutes,

turning halfway through cooking. Drain on

paper towel and season before serving.

GOOD PICKLES

MAKES 2 × 750ML JARS

“No matter what the occasion, a good

pickle just can’t be beaten. Hungover on

the couch? Have a pickle. Salad not quite

working? Chop up a pickle and toss it

through. A piece of white bread, cheese

and pickle is the best quick lunch you

could hope for and, let’s not forget, fried

pickles drowned in ranch is as close to

godliness as a bar snack can get. Oh, and

here’s an unnecessary but helpful note:

if you have access to vine leaves, try

adding one to each jar – the tannins in

them will help keep the pickles crunchy.”

Begin this recipe 1 week ahead.

delicious.com.au 63

EXTRACT.

4 cups (1L) water

2 tbs rock salt

500g pickling cucumbers

2 garlic cloves, roughly sliced

1 /2 bunch dill, fronds picked

2-3 tsp caster sugar (optional)

To pickle the cucumbers, add the water

and salt to a large saucepan and bring

to the boil. Remove from the heat and

set aside to cool to room temperature.

Pack 2 wide-mouthed sterilised jars

tightly with the cucumbers. Divide the

garlic and dill between the jars, pour

over the cooled brine and seal tightly

with the lids. (If you like your pickles

a little sweet, you can add a few teaspoons

of caster sugar at this stage, too.)

Leave the jars somewhere cool and

dark for about 7 days, then give one

of the pickles a try. If it is salty and sour,

then transfer the jars to the fridge;

if not, leave the jars where they are

to keep pickling. Jars will keep in the

fridge until needed.

HOT CRAYFISH ROLL

SERVES 4

“I grew up on the coastline of

southern Australia, famous for its rock

lobster (aka crayfish), so it made sense

for me to include this take on the

famous New England lobster roll here

[at The Hot Chicken Project]”.

1 × 600g crayfish

4 store-bought brioche buns

80g unsalted butter, melted

2 baby cos lettuces, leaves separated

SAUCE

1 cup (250g) whole-egg mayonnaise

Juice of 1 /2 a lemon

1 tbs apple cider vinegar

2 tsp Dijon mustard

1 tsp tomato sauce

1 /2 cup (125ml) grapeseed oil

1 /2 tsp chilli powder

1 /2 bunch dill, finely chopped

DRESSING

100g unsalted butter

100ml extra virgin olive oil

1 tsp smoked paprika

1 tsp cayenne pepper

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to

the boil. Carefully add the crayfish to the

pan and boil for 7-8 minutes, then turn off

the heat, cover with the lid and leave to sit

for a further 2 minutes. Remove crayfish

from the pan and plunge it into a bowl of

iced water to stop the cooking process.

For the sauce, whisk together the

mayonnaise, lemon juice, vinegar, mustard,

tomato sauce, grapeseed oil and chilli

powder in a bowl. Season to taste, then

fold through the dill. Set aside.

For the dressing, melt the butter and oil

together in a small saucepan over a low

heat, then add the paprika and cayenne

and whisk together to combine. Set aside

and keep warm.

Remove the crayfish from the iced water

and cut off the tail. Cut lengthways down

the tail and break away the shell, then

chop the meat into rough pieces. Transfer

the chopped meat to a bowl, sprinkle with

a pinch of salt flakes, spoon over the sauce

and mix everything together well. Season

to taste.

Split the brioche buns down the middle

and brush the insides with melted butter.

Place a large frypan over high heat, then

add brioche to the pan, buttered-side

down, and leave for a few seconds until

lightly charred.

While the bun halves are still warm,

bring them together and pile them high

with the baby cos leaves and the sauced

crayfish meat. Spoon over the buttery

dressing to serve.

HAND PIES

MAKES 15

“I don’t have much of a sweet tooth, so

these are perfect. You can fill these with

anything you like, really – fresh berries,

stewed fruit, canned fruit – and they can

also be easily adapted to make them work

for savoury fillings, just omit the sugar from

the pastry. If you can’t get hold of cake

flour, just sift 1 tbs of cornflour with the

same quantity of plain (all-purpose) flour,

less 1 tbs.” Begin this recipe 1 day ahead.

You will need a kitchen thermometer.

600g seasonal fruit such as

blueberries or strawberries,

cut into small chunks

Vegetable oil or lard, to fry

Icing sugar, to serve

PASTRY

280g unsalted butter, chilled

90g lard, chilled

650g cake flour, sifted

1 1 /2 tbs caster sugar

2 tsp salt

235ml ice-cold water

For the pastry, cut the butter and lard

into 1cm cubes and place in the freezer

for 10 minutes or until firm.

Combine the flour, sugar and salt in

a bowl. Add half the butter and lard

cubes and toss to coat, then transfer

the mixture to the bowl of a stand mixer

with the paddle attachment and beat

together on medium speed, gradually

adding the remaining butter and lard

as you go, until the mixture resembles

a coarse meal. Add the cold water and

beat again slowly until it forms a rough

dough. Remove from the mixer, wrap

the dough in plastic wrap and

refrigerate overnight.

On a lightly floured work bench,

roll the dough out to 4mm thick and

cut it into 13cm circles. You will have

approximately 15 circles.

Cover half of each pastry circle

with seasonal fruit, leaving a small border

around the edge, then fold the pastry

over to cover the fruit and press along

the edges, pinching and folding to seal.

Transfer the pies to the freezer for

20 minutes to firm up.

When ready to cook, half-fill a large

deep heavy-based, saucepan or

deep-fryer with oil or lard and heat

to 180°C. Working in batches of

2 or 3, carefully lower the pies into the

hot oil, shaking the pan gently so

they don’t stick together, and cook

for 8-10 minutes, turning every minute

or so, until golden and crisp all over.

Remove from the oil, drain on paper towel

and dust with icing sugar while hot,

to serve.

HAND

PIES

HOT

CRAYFISH

ROLL

delicious.com.au 65

Welcome

CHANGE

“Pair this dish with an oaky

chardonnay, something a bit

lighter to bring out the

carrot’s sweetness.”

Bar snacks aren’t just bar snacks when Shane Delia is involved. The chef and restaurateur,

best known for his love of Middle Eastern and Mediterranean flavours, is shaking up the

art of meze (snacks to have with drinks) and it’s a shift we are keen to salute.

WORDS MICHELLE OALIN PHOTOGRAPHY MARK ROPER STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS


GUEST CHEF.

“This dish also calls for

lighter whites to really

help the flavours of the

mushrooms come along.”

Oyster mushroom shish, toum,

pine nut and parsley (recipe

p 71). OPPOSITE: roast carrots,

dill, maple, harissa

and hummus (recipe p 72).

delicious.com.au 67

SHANE DELIA IS the king of meze. Before the recent nationwide restaurant closures, the

chef’s Maha Bar (a play on the Arabic word marhaba, meaning ‘welcome’) was receiving

praise for its dishes that perfectly pair with the bar’s extensive drinks list – from arak and

raki (anise-flavoured drink) to classic cocktails and biodynamic wines. One such dish – the

roast carrots with dill, maple, harissa and hummus. “I wanted to make carrots the focus,

and hummus the vessel to carry the spices and flavours. And it makes for perfect meze

because it’s easy to make. Pair it with an oaky chardonnay to bring out the flavours.”

For the ultimate pairing, Delia says you can’t go past the pan-roasted duck (“the

muhammara [hot pepper dip] lifts this dish”), served with the sugar snap peas cooked in

a ras el hanout [Moroccan spice mix] butter. “I don’t like to toot my own horn but this is a

pretty bloody good dish. It’s fresh, crunchy and sweet with that warmth from the spice.”

And as for what to drink with the meal, the chef recommends a lighter red wine, such as

pinot or gamay. “Serve this up at your next get-together and you’re in for a good time.”

@shanedelia

“An arak (Arabic aniseed liqueur)

would be perfect for this dish.

It will offset the garlic

and the heavy dumplings,

lightening up the dish.”

Macaroon bil toum, tomato,

sumac, chickpea (recipe p 71).

GUEST CHEF.

SUGAR SNAP PEAS, RAS EL

HANOUT AND SPLIT PEAS

SERVES 4 AS A SIDE

150g unsalted butter, room

temperature

2 tbs ras el hanout (Moroccan spice

mix), plus extra to scatter

1 /2 cup (100g) yellow split peas

Vegetable oil, to fry


500g sugar snap peas, trimmed

Juice of 1 lemon

Place the butter and ras el hanout in

a food processor and whiz, scraping

down the sides occasionally, until smooth

and well combined. Transfer to an

airtight container and refrigerate

until needed.

Place the split peas in a medium

saucepan and cover with water. Place over

a medium heat and cook, stirring

occasionally, for 15-20 minutes until tender

but not overcooked. Strain peas, then dry

on a large tray lined with a clean tea towel.

Make sure excess water has been drained

before frying.

Place a large, deep heavy-based

saucepan half full of vegetable oil over

high heat. Heat oil to 180°C (a cube of

bread will turn golden in 90 seconds when

the oil is hot enough). Fry split peas gently,


crisp and crunchy, then drain on paper

towel. Season to taste and scatter with

extra ras el hanout. Set aside.

Place a large frypan with olive oil over

high heat. Add sugar snap peas and cook,

tossing occasionally, for 2-3 minutes until

lightly browned. Add 2 tbs ras el hanout

butter and allow to foam up, then toss

through lemon juice. Add split peas and

toss to combine then transfer to a bowl.

Season to taste and spoon over with

remaining ras el hanout butter to serve.

delicious.com.au 69

GUEST CHEF.

Citrus-cured

salmon with

mustard dressing

“This sensational

salmon is a

champagne type

of dish – light,

vibrant.”

70 delicious.com.au

CITRUS-CURED SALMON WITH

MUSTARD DRESSING

SERVES 4 AS A LIGHT MEAL

Begin this recipe 1 day ahead.

1 /2 bunch chives, finely chopped,

plus extra to serve

2 long green shallots, thinly sliced

2 eschalots, finely chopped

1 /4 cup (40g) toasted pine nuts

1 /2 cup (140g) natural yoghurt

2 witlof, trimmed, leaves separated

Baby red radish cress, to serve

SALMON CURE

500g rock salt

500g caster sugar

Zest of 1 orange, 1 lime and 1 lemon

600g skinless salmon fillet, pin-boned

MUSTARD DRESSING (MAKES

APPROX. 100ML)

1 tsp runny honey

1 tsp American mustard

2 1 /2 tbs lemon juice


For the salmon cure, place the salt, sugar

and all the zest in a large mixing bowl

and toss to combine. Place half of the

cure mixture in a deep non-reactive

rectangular tray. Place the salmon on top,

and scatter over remaining cure mixture,

making sure the salmon is well covered.

Refrigerate for 5-6 hours to cure. Wash

off the salt under cold running water then

transfer salmon to another tray lined with

a clean Chux cloth and allow to air-dry in

the fridge overnight. Cut into 1cm square

pieces and set aside until ready to use.

Meanwhile, for the dressing, place the

honey, mustard and lemon juice in a

medium bowl and whisk to combine.

Whisking continuously, gradually add the

olive oil. Season to taste and set aside.

Place the salmon, chives, long green

shallot, eschalot, pine nuts and half of the

dressing in a large bowl, season to taste

and toss to combine.

Spread yoghurt on a platter, spoon

over salmon mixture and scatter with

extra chives and baby red radish cress.

Serve with witlof leaves alongside.

OYSTER MUSHROOM SHISH,

TOUM, PINE NUT AND PARSLEY

SERVES 4 AS A SIDE OR STARTER

Try to get the freshest oyster mushrooms

you can, they will stay on the skewer much

easier. You will need four 23cm metal

skewers for this recipe.

32 large fresh oyster mushrooms,

trimmed

Toasted pine nuts, to serve

1 /4 bunch chives, cut into 3cm batons

1 /4 bunch flat-leaf parsley leaves, torn

CABERNET SAUVIGNON DRESSING

(MAKES 200ML)

1 /3 cup (80ml) cabernet sauvignon

vinegar or red wine vinegar

2 tbs brown sugar


1 /4 cup (60ml) garlic oil (from

supermarkets and specialty food

shops), plus extra to drizzle

1 tbs lemon juice

5 pickled baby onions, drained,

quartered

1 /4 bunch chives, finely chopped

1 /4 bunch flat-leaf parsley leaves,

finely chopped

TOUM (GARLIC SAUCE – MAKES

APPROX 500G)

150g garlic, peeled, any green parts

removed

1 /3 cup (80ml) lemon juice

200ml each vegetable oil and light olive

oil, combined in a small jug

For the dressing, place vinegar and

brown sugar in a small saucepan over

high heat. Cook, stirring occasionally,

for 3-4 minutes until the sugar dissolves

then transfer to a heatproof bowl and

chill until cooled completely. Add

remaining ingredients, season to taste

and whisk to combine. Set aside.

For the toum, place garlic and lemon

juice in a blender or food processor and

whiz until a paste starts to form. With the

motor running, gradually add combined

oil, scraping down the sides occasionally.

If the toum gets too thick, add warm

water, 1 tbs at a time, to help emulsify

and loosen until a mayonnaise

consistency. Season to taste then transfer

to an airtight container to keep from

oxidising and changing colour. Toum

can be stored in an airtight container

and stored in the fridge for 4-5 days.

Tightly thread 8 large oyster

mushrooms through their stems on a

metal skewer, ensuring mushrooms keep

their shape. Place them all in the same

direction. Repeat with remaining

mushrooms and skewers. Set aside.

Place a large non-stick frypan over high

heat. Drizzle over extra garlic oil and,

working in batches, carefully add skewers

to the pan and cook for 1-2 minutes on

each side until mushrooms are golden

and cooked. Season to taste. Remove

from the pan and place on a tray, then

cover with foil to keep warm until ready

to serve. Repeat with remaining skewers.

Spread the desired amount of toum

over a large serving platter and top with

warm skewers. Spoon over dressing and

scatter with pine nuts, chives and parsley.

Serve immediately.

MACAROON BIL TOUM, TOMATO,

SUMAC, CHICKPEA

SERVES 4 AS A STARTER

100g toum (recipe at left)

Lemon juice, to taste

Sumac and picked watercress, to serve

DUMPLINGS

1 2 /3 cups (50g) plain (all-purpose) flour

10g salt flakes

For the dumplings, place the flour and

salt flakes in the bowl of a stand mixer

with the hook attachment and knead

on low speed until combined. Increase

speed to medium, add 130ml cold water

and knead until well combined. Transfer

onto a lightly floured work surface and

knead until smooth. Set aside and cover

with a clean tea towel for 20-30 minutes.

On a floured surface, divide dough

into 4 pieces. Roll each piece into a log

about 1.5cm thick (like a rope) then cut

into 1cm pieces. Use your thumb to

drag the dough towards you, making

GUEST CHEF.

an indent. Repeat with remaining

dough. Place on a tray and cover with

a clean tea towel until needed.

Bring a large saucepan three-quarters

full of salted water to the boil. Blanch

dumplings for 3-4 minutes until they

float. Drain and transfer to a bowl, and

keep warm. Reserve about 150ml of

blanching water.

Meanwhile, place toum in a large

saucepan over medium heat. Gradually

add reserved water and, using a whisk,

stir constantly until combined. The sauce

should be slightly thickened. Bring to

a gentle simmer then add the dumplings

and cook, stirring occasionally, for

2-3 minutes or until the dumplings are

heated through. Season to taste and

stir in lemon juice. Do not boil or the

sauce will split.

Place the dumplings and toum sauce

in a large bowl and sprinkle with sumac.

Scatter over watercress to serve.

ROAST CARROTS, DILL, MAPLE,

HARISSA AND HUMMUS

SERVES 4 AS A SIDE

2 1 /2 tbs harissa paste

4 (130g each) large carrots, cut into

long wedges

1 /3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil,

plus extra to drizzle

30g toasted pine nuts, plus extra

to serve

100ml maple syrup

1 /2 bunch dill, finely chopped,

plus extra sprigs to serve

HUMMUS (MAKES APPROX 375ML)

250g chickpeas, soaked, cooked

(substitute drained and rinsed

canned chickpeas)

100g hulled tahini

2 garlic cloves, chopped

1 /3 cup (80ml) lemon juice

For the hummus, place all ingredients

except lemon juice in a food processor

and whiz, scraping down the sides

occasionally, until smooth and

combined. Add a little warm water

to thin out if needed. Season to taste,

add lemon juice and pulse until

combined. Set aside.

Place 2 tbs harissa paste and 2 tbs

of warm water in a bowl, and stir to

combine and loosen paste. Place carrot

in a large bowl and drizzle over half of the

harissa mixture and 2 tbs olive oil. Season

to taste and toss well to combine.

Preheat oven to 220°C.

Grease a large baking tray and line

with baking paper. Transfer carrot to

prepared tray and bake, tossing

occasionally, for 20-25 minutes until

carrot starts to caramelise and darken

around the edges.

Place a large non-stick frypan over

a medium heat. Drizzle over remaining

2 tbs (40ml) olive oil and add carrots

and remaining 1 /2 tbs harissa paste.

Stir through pine nuts and cook, tossing

gently, for 1-2 minutes then add the

maple syrup, and cook, tossing

frequently, for 1-2 minutes until carrot

is glazed. Remove pan from the heat,

add dill, season to taste and toss gently

to combine.

Spoon hummus into a large serving

bowl or plate. Spoon over the glazed

carrot and sprinkle extra dill sprigs

and extra pine nuts. Drizzle with extra

olive oil to serve.

PAN-ROASTED DUCK,

MUHAMMARA, POMEGRANATE

SERVES 4 AS A LIGHT MEAL

4 duck breasts



3 long green shallots, cut into

3cm pieces

2 cups (500ml) good-quality

chicken stock

Juice of 1 pomegranate

1 /4 cup (30g) toasted walnuts,

chopped

1 /4 bunch chives, finely chopped

Aleppo pepper (substitute chilli flakes),

to taste

MUHAMMARA (MAKES APPROX. 310ML)

200g roasted red capsicums

2 garlic cloves, chopped

1 long red chilli, chopped

100g toasted walnuts

1 tbs Turkish chilli paste (from specialty

shops – substitute regular chilli paste)

2 tbs pomegranate molasses

For the muhammara, place all ingredients

in a food processor and pulse until

combined but still with some texture.

Preheat oven to 180°C. Grease a small

oven tray and line with baking paper.

Place duck breasts, skin-side down,

in a heavy-based non-stick frypan over

low-medium heat. Cook the duck for

15-20 minutes, rendering the fat out

of the skin, until duck skin is golden

and crisp. Reserve 2 tbs rendered

duck fat. Transfer duck onto the prepared

tray and roast for 3-4 minutes until

medium or cooked to your liking.

Remove from the oven and transfer

to a plate. Rest, covered in foil, for

10-12 minutes.

Meanwhile, place duck pan back over

high heat and add the reserved duck fat

and olive oil. Add the eschalot and

long green shallot and cook, stirring

occasionally, for 3-4 minutes until starting

to soften. Add chicken stock, scraping

the bottom of the pan with a wooden

spoon, and bring to the boil. Reduce

rapidly for 8-10 minutes until reduced

by half. Remove from the heat and stir

through the pomegranate juice, walnuts,

chives and a pinch of Aleppo pepper,

to taste.

Place duck back in the oven for

1 minute to warm up then carefully cut

any excess fat and discard. Thickly slice

the duck on an angle..

Spread muhammara on a large serving

platter and top with duck. Spoon over

the sauce, making sure you get lots of

onions, pomegranates and walnuts over

the duck. Serve immediately.

72 delicious.com.au

SOUPS.

Chicken & risoni soup with

greens and gremolata

(p 76)

delicious.com.au 75

“THERE’S NOTHING

THAT SOOTHES

QUITE LIKE A GOOD

SOUP, ESPECIALLY

WHEN IT STARTS TO

COOL OUTSIDE.”

PURE

AND

SIMPLE

The times they are a-changin’, so return to what matters

most, especially on Mother’s Day. Nourish the ones you

love using recipes with heart, as seen in Julia Busuttil

Nishimura’s upcoming book A Year of Simple Family Food.

PHOTOGRAPHY ARMELLE HABIB

84 delicious.com.au

Crumbed lamb cutlets with smoky

eggplant salad (recipe p 88).

OPPOSITE: porchetta (recipe p 87).

EXTRACT.

EXTRACT.

SIMPLE COOKING IS what I’ve always known and loved. It is the sort of food I grew up

eating – thoughtful, considered and uncomplicated, in the best possible way. If we had

good ingredients to begin with, little was needed to make a beautiful meal.

Food and family are so intertwined. While cooking for family is, of course, to satisfy

hunger, it is so much more. ‘Family food’ is generous and unfussy and demonstrates

love and care – it is perfectly imperfect. For me, it is also about making rituals and

creating special moments together; even something as simple as eggs on toast can be

a joyous occasion when you are all together around the dining table. That notion of

being together and sharing food at a table is a practice that is often lost in the

busyness of our lives. No matter what the day has brought us, the dependable act of

setting the table and enjoying a simple meal is comforting and ever-reassuring.

A Year of Simple Family Food by Julia Busuttil Nishimura, Published by Plum, $39.99,

Photography by Armelle Habib

@juliaostro

PORCHETTA

SERVES 12-15

Begin this recipe 1 day ahead. You will

need kitchen string.

1 x 2.8-3 kg piece pork belly (rump end)

or shoulder, bone removed, skin scored

SEASONING

2 tbs sea salt

1 1 /2 tbs fennel seeds, freshly ground

2 tbs finely chopped sage leaves

2 tbs finely chopped rosemary leaves


1 tsp freshly ground black pepper

1 tsp dried chilli flakes

SALSA VERDE

1 garlic clove

Small bunch parsley, leaves picked

1 tbs salted capers, rinsed

2 anchovy fillets, drained

Juice of 1 lemon


Ensure the pork is dry by patting down skin

and flesh with paper towel. Lay the pork,

skin-side down, on a clean work surface.

For the seasoning, mix all of the

ingredients together in a bowl.

Rub seasoning into the meat then

roll up the belly and tie tightly using

kitchen string. Place on a wire rack over

a tray and refrigerate, uncovered,

overnight. This allows flavours to develop

and skin to dry. Allow pork to come

to room temperature before moving onto

the cooking.

Preheat oven to 170°C. Place the pork on

a wire rack over a baking tray and roast for

3 hours. Increase the temperature to

200°C, then cook for a further 30 minutes

or until the skin is crackling and golden.

Remove and allow to rest for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, for the salsa verde, finely

chop garlic, then add parsley and continue

to chop, adding capers and anchovies and

continuing to chop until everything is

roughly incorporated. Transfer to a small

bowl, squeeze in the lemon juice and mix

in enough olive oil so that sauce is a

drizzling consistency. Season to taste. Cut

the porchetta into slices and serve with the

salsa verde.

CAVATELLI WITH SAUSAGE AND

CAVOLO NERO

SERVES 4

400g semolina flour, plus extra to dust


1 onion, finely diced


6 sage leaves

Pinch of dried chilli flakes, plus extra

to serve

3 pork and fennel sausages (about 300g),

casings removed

400g canned whole peeled tomatoes

1 bunch cavolo nero (about 150g), stems

removed, leaves roughly chopped

Grated parmesan, to serve

To make the cavatelli pasta, place the flour

onto a clean work surface and mix with

a large pinch of salt. Make a well in the

centre and slowly pour in 3/4 cup (180ml)

warm water. If the dough feels very dry

or difficult to bring together, sprinkle over

a little extra water. Using your hands,

bring a little flour at a time into the water

until you have a rough dough. Use a pastry

scraper to bring it all together. Knead for

10 minutes or until smooth. Cover with

plastic wrap and set aside for at least

30 minutes.

Divide the pasta dough into 4 pieces,

cover with a clean tea towel and set aside

until ready to use. Working with 1 piece at

a time, place dough, on a lightly floured

work surface, roll dough into a rope about

1.5cm thick. Cut the rope into 1cm lengths

and use your finger to press down and roll

to create a small cavern. This is best done

on a flat wooden board. Place the cavatelli

onto a board or tea towel generously

dusted with semolina flour. Repeat with the

rest of the dough, arranging cavatelli in a

single layer to ensure they don’t stick to

each other.

Warm the olive oil in a large frypan over

a low-medium heat. Add the onion and fry

gently for 15 minutes or until soft and

beginning to colour. Stir in the garlic, sage

and dried chilli. Increase heat to mediumhigh

and add the sausage meat. Break up

the meat with the back of a wooden spoon

and cook for 3-4 minutes until golden. Add

tomatoes and simmer for 5 minutes, then

delicious.com.au 87

EXTRACT.

stir through cavolo nero and cook for a

further 15 minutes. Season and keep warm.

Meanwhile, cook pasta in a large

saucepan of generously salted water for

3-4 minutes until just under al dente. Drain

pasta, reserving 1 cup (250 ml) cooking

water. Increase heat under the sauce to

medium and, when bubbling again, add

pasta along with some of the reserved

cooking water and cook for 1-2 minutes

until pasta is al dente and well coated. Add

more cooking water if needed. Serve with

grated parmesan and extra chilli flakes.

CRUMBED LAMB CUTLETS WITH

SMOKY EGGPLANT SALAD

SERVES 4

8 Frenched lamb cutlets

2 /3 cup (100g) plain flour

2 eggs, lightly beaten

2 1 /2 cups (125g) panko breadcrumbs


SMOKY EGGPLANT SALAD

3 eggplants (about 1 kg in total)

Seeds of 1 pomegranate

60g pine nuts, toasted

Large handfuls of parsley and mint leaves

Juice of 1 lemon


1 tbs pomegranate molasses

Pinch of sumac

For the salad, place the eggplants directly

over the gas flame of your stove or on a

barbecue over coals, and cook for around

10 minutes, turning frequently, until the

skin is charred and the flesh is soft and

collapsed. Transfer to a dish and, when

cool enough to handle, peel and discard

skin. Transfer the flesh to a colander and

allow to drain for 10 minutes. Transfer to a

bowl and add the remaining ingredients,

using a fork to gently pull the eggplant

apart as you mix it with the other

ingredients.

Season the lamb with sea salt. Place the

flour, egg and breadcrumbs in separate

shallow bowls, ready for crumbing. First,

lightly dust the cutlets in flour, then dip in

the egg and finish with breadcrumbs, using

your hands to gently press crumbs on.

Heat the olive oil in a large frypan over a

medium heat and pan-fry the crumbed

lamb cutlets for about 3 minutes on each

side, until golden and just cooked through.

Drain on paper towel, then serve with the

eggplant salad.

PIADINA WITH TWO FILLINGS

SERVES 8

3 1 /3 cups (500g) tipo ‘00’ or plain flour,

plus extra to dust

2 tsp baking powder

1 tsp fine sea salt

80g unsalted butter, softened

150ml full-cream milk

Combine the flour, baking powder and salt

in a large bowl. Either using your hands or

a stand mixer with a dough hook, mix in

the butter. Slowly pour in milk and 150ml

lukewarm water and continue to mix until

everything is well incorporated. If making

the dough by hand, tip the dough onto a

well-floured board and knead for around

10 minutes or until the dough is smooth

and pliable. If using a stand mixer, mix on a

medium speed for 5 minutes. Wrap the

dough in plastic wrap and allow to rest for

at least 30 minutes.

Dust a clean work surface with flour,

divide dough into 8 balls and roll out into

2mm-thick rounds. Heat a large non-stick

frypan over a medium heat and cook the

piadina for 90 seconds on each side or until

lightly golden. Transfer to a plate and

repeat with remaining dough. Fill the

piadina with desired filling (see below) .

Piadina are best eaten shortly after

being cooked.

MOZZARELLA, PROSCIUTTO, FIGS & ROCKET

Cover one half of the piadina with a few

pieces of buffalo mozzarella and sliced fig.

Drape over some prosciutto and top with

some basil leaves and rocket. Drizzle with

extra virgin olive oil and season with salt

and pepper. Fold the piadina over, cut in

half and serve.

CIME DI RAPA AND STRACCIATELLA

Trim a bunch of cime di rapa (broccoli rabe)

to remove any tough and woody stems.

Blanch in salted boiling water until just

wilted. Drain and refresh in iced water, then

squeeze out as much moisture as you can.

In a large frypan, warm 2 tbs extra virgin

olive oil. Add 3 roughly chopped garlic

cloves and saute gently until soft. Add a

pinch of dried chilli flakes and the cime di

rapa. Drag the rapa around the pan to

coat. Season with salt and allow to cool

briefly. Cover one half of the piadina with

some cime di rapa and top with

stracciatella (or mozzarella). Drizzle with

olive oil, then fold the piadina over, cut in

half and serve.

BANANA AND COCONUT CAKE

WITH LEMON ICING

SERVES 8-10

3 eggs

100g caster sugar

50g brown sugar

1 vanilla pod, split, seeds scraped or 1 tsp

vanilla bean paste

150ml olive or neutral vegetable oil

1 cup (70g) shredded coconut, plus extra

to sprinkle

270g self-raising flour, sifted

3 mashed ripe bananas (about 300g total)

200ml buttermilk

LEMON ICING

Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon

2 1 /4 cups (270g) pure icing sugar, sifted,

plus extra if needed

Preheat oven to 180°C. Grease a 21cm

round cake pan with butter and line base

and side with baking paper.

In a large bowl, whisk eggs and sugars

together until pale and light. Add vanilla

and drizzle in the oil, whisking to combine.

Alternately, and in small batches, add the

shredded coconut, flour, banana and

buttermilk, mixing well between each

addition. Pour batter into prepared pan

and bake for 1 hour 20 minutes, or until a

skewer inserted in the centre comes out

clean. Cool in pan for a few minutes, then

invert onto a wire rack to cool completely.

For the icing, combine the lemon zest

and juice with the icing sugar, whisking

until smooth. The icing should be runny

enough to pour but thick enough to cover

the cake. Add more sugar to thicken if

needed. Pour icing over the cake and

generously scatter with extra shredded

coconut to serve.

88 delicious.com.au

Piadina with

two fillings

THE

PIECE

MAKERS

MATT MORAN.

IF THERE WAS ever a time for a slice of cake, this is it. In a climate where comfort is

in short supply (along with some pantry staples more recently), the sweet ritual of

baking provides solace. And that’s where Matt Moran comes in. “I love flourless

cakes because they’re wholesome,” he says. “They have a bit more protein in them

because you’re using nut meals. They also tend to be more dense which, for me,

makes them very comforting.” All that’s left to do is add some seasonal produce

such as rhubarb, apples and mandarins, and you have a cake that’s up to the task.

“I like using some different sweeteners, too, like native honey for its floral tones,

molasses for richness, and rapadura for the maltiness it brings. And, of course, some

autumn spices: fennel, cinnamon, cloves. It gives these cakes a real warmth.”

@chefmattmoran

MATT MORAN.

MATT MORAN.

2 tsp vanilla bean paste

SPICED SEEDS

1 /4 cup (30g) icing sugar, sifted

2 tbs each pepitas and sunflower seeds

1 tbs fennel seeds

1 /2 tsp ground cinnamon

BUTTERMILK ICING GLAZE

250g pure icing sugar, sifted

1 /4 cup (60ml) buttermilk

2 tbs lemon juice

Preheat oven to 170°C. Liberally grease an

8-cup capacity bundt pan.

Place all dry ingredients in a large bowl

and form a well in the centre. Place wet

ingredients in a separate bowl and whisk

to combine, then add to dry ingredients

and whisk until smooth. Pour batter into

the prepared pan and bake for 45-55

minutes until risen and browned, and cake

springs back when touched. Cool in pan

for 10 minutes, then place cake in pan on

a wire rack and stand for 10 minutes.

Remove from pan and cool completely.

For the spiced seeds, combine all

ingredients with 2 tsp water in a bowl and

stir to coat evenly. Spread on a baking tray

lined with baking paper and bake for

20-25 minutes until caramelised. Set aside

to cool then coarsely chop.

For the buttermilk icing glaze, sift icing

sugar into a bowl. Gradually add

buttermilk and stir until smooth, then

gradually stir in lemon juice to thin to

a drizzling consistency. Drizzle over

cooled cake and scatter with spiced

seeds to serve.

APPLE HAZELNUT CAKE WITH

CARAMEL CUSTARD

SERVES 10-12

You will need a piping bag and cranked

palette knife for this recipe.

5 small Granny Smith apples

200g unsalted butter, softened,

plus 20g extra melted, to brush

1 cup (220g) caster sugar, plus 2 tbs

extra to dust

2 tsp ground cinnamon


2 eggs

3 /4 cup (185ml) buttermilk

Finely grated zest and juice of 1 /2 orange

4 cups (400g) hazelnut meal

2 tsp baking powder

2 tbs hazelnuts, roasted, chopped

Double cream, to serve

CARAMEL CUSTARD


300ml milk


4 egg yolks

20g cornflour

For the caramel custard, place 1 /2 cup

(110g) sugar and 1 /4 cup (60ml) water in a

saucepan over medium-high heat and stir

until sugar dissolves. Cook, without

stirring, for 4-5 minutes until caramelised.

Remove from heat, add milk, then return

to heat and whisk until smooth. Bring to a

simmer. Meanwhile, whisk together egg

yolks, cornflour and remaining 40g sugar

in a bowl. Pour in hot milk mixture,

whisking to combine. Return mixture to

saucepan and whisk continuously over

medium heat for 2-3 minutes until very

thick. Pour into a heatproof bowl, cover

surface directly with baking paper and

refrigerate until chilled.

Peel and finely chop 2 apples and place

in a saucepan with 1 /4 cup (60ml) water

over medium-high heat. Cover and cook,


very tender. Remove from heat and mash

with the back of a spoon. Set aside to cool.

Preheat oven to 160°C fan-forced.

Grease a 24cm springform pan and line

base and side with baking paper. Place

butter, sugar, cinnamon and vanilla in a

stand mixer with the paddle attachment

and beat for 5-7 minutes until light and

fluffy. Scrape down side of bowl, then beat

in eggs to combine. Beat in buttermilk,

orange zest and juice, followed by hazelnut

meal, baking powder and apple puree.

Beat until smooth. Spread half the batter

into prepared pan. Place chilled custard in

a piping bag and pipe over batter, leaving

a 1.5cm border. Smooth custard with a

small cranked palette knife, then smooth

over remaining cake batter. Using a

mandoline, thinly slice remaining 3 apples

into rounds and arrange in overlapping

concentric circles on top of cake, leaving

a 1.5cm border. Brush apples with melted

butter and dust with extra sugar. Scatter

chopped hazelnuts around the 1.5cm

border and bake for 1 hour 30 minutes-

2 hours until golden brown and centre

springs back when lightly pressed. Cool in

pan for 30 minutes and serve with cream.

BURNT BUTTER, ALMOND AND

HONEY CAKE

SERVES 8-10

180g unsalted butter, chilled, chopped

5 eggs


1 /2 cup (180g) honey, plus 60g extra to

drizzle


2 1 /2 cups (250g) almond meal

2 /3 cup (100g) gluten-free plain flour

2 /3 tsp baking powder

Finely grated zest of 2 limes, juice of 1

100g almonds, chopped

Icing sugar, to serve

Preheat oven to 160°C. Grease a 20cm x

30cm cake pan and line the base and sides

with baking paper.

Place butter in a saucepan and cook

over medium-high heat for 5 minutes or

until nut brown. Remove from heat and

cool to room temperature.

Place eggs, sugar, vanilla and half the

honey in a stand mixer with the whisk

attachment and whisk for 5 minutes or

until pale and doubled in volume. Fold in

almond meal, flour, baking powder, lime

zest and juice and a pinch of salt flakes.

Pour in two-thirds of burnt butter (stir

butter well before adding) and fold to

combine. Pour into prepared pan and

smooth top.

Combine chopped almonds, remaining

burnt butter, remaining 90g honey and a

pinch of salt flakes in a bowl. Mix well then

scatter evenly over batter. Bake on middle

shelf, turning occasionally, for 40-45

minutes until golden brown and the centre

springs back when lightly pressed. Drizzle

over extra honey and cool on a wire rack in

pan. Serve at room temperature.

a little crush

Pineapple & coconut

crumble

(p 104)


WICKED.

Strawberry, apple &

rhubarb crumble

(p 104)

delicious.com.au 99

100 delicious.com.au

“EVERYBODY

LOVES A

CRUMBLE. THEY

ARE THE PERFECT

DISH FOR USING

TOP-NOTCH

AUTUMN

PRODUCE.”

Visit: peterlehmannwines.com

TRADITION IS KEY TO GEORGIA’S HOTSPOTS 108 >> WA’S GASCOYNE REGION UNDER THE SPOTLIGHT 142 >> MYKONOS: AN ISLAND

GETAWAY LIKE NO OTHER 122 >> THERE’S MORE TO MEMPHIS THAN JUST THE BLUES 126 >> RACHEL KHOO’S STOCKHOLM 132 >>

TRAVEL

PHOTOGRAPHY REBECCA CRAWFORD

Georgia’s food and

wine scene is good

enough to be

bottled. Find out

why on page 108.

delicious.com.au 107

The rustic facade of

restaurant Salobie Bia,

serving traditional,

regional dishes.

CLOCKWISE: Tbilisi’s

Old Town; traditional

Georgian flatbread is

baked in a clay oven;

moreish broth-filled

dumplings at

Shemomechama;

Shavi Lomi’s

mural-clad

exterior.

I

GLOBAL FLAVOURS.

holy grail of comfort food. Dive in with your hands, ripping off

pieces of crust and mopping up the molten mess of cheese,

egg and butter.

We all experience the feeling of shemomechama,

which roughly translates to ‘I unintentionally ate the whole

thing’. It’s also a fitting name for this hole-in-the-wall diner

specialising in khinkali – traditional Georgian dumplings,

filled with minced beef, lamb, cheese or potatoes. Hot tip:

pierce the side of the dumpling with your teeth and slurp

up the juices, before biting down into the tender, fragrant filling.

“This place has made a big change in people’s lives,”

local Tbilisi resident Nodar tells us, as we stroll into Fabrika,

a former sewing factory that’s been transformed into an urban

hub for food, art, and fashion. “It’s injected a bit of colour into

this part of town.” He’s not wrong. Emblazoned with giant wall

murals and endless streams of bunting, its central courtyard

features numerous cafes and bars, as well as artists’ studios,

a record store and a barber shop. Swing into Moulin Electrique

for a cappuccino and crepes, enjoyed alfresco beneath a

giant glittering disco ball.

CLOCKWISE: Fabrika,

Tbilisi’s hub of art, food

and fashion; Lolita’s cool

interior; the gallery wall at

Salobie Bia; and a sample

of a regional dish (inset).

“THERE’S A HOST

OF YOUNG CHEFS

FORGING A

RETELLING OF

GEORGIAN CULINARY

TRADITIONS.”

Crepes at Fabrika;


CLOCKWISE: modern meets

traditional at Vineria; Vino

Underground’s cosy cellar;

and character-filled entrance;

Cafe Littera is set inside the

historic Writers’ House;

8000 Vintages’ wine library;

where you can sample natural

Georgian-grown wine (inset).

“CRACKING A

BOTTLE IS MET

WITH A HEARTY

TOAST TO ‘THE

LAND, THE FOOD,

THE PEOPLE’.”

Endless coastlines, breathaking landscapes and

unrivalled produce grown on land that’s respected

and honoured, the Gascoyne region of Western

Australia is pure gold, writes Max Brearley.

PHOTOGRAPHY SARAH HEWER

@max_brearley



INSIDER.

TRAVEL NEWS

Hot destinations, cool stays, travel essentials

& everything in transit.

CHECK IN

1

Nestled

in the heart of Tasmania’s UNESCO World

Heritage Listed site lies the awe-inspiring

Cradle Mountain Lodge (above and main), where

a multi-stage $10 million upgrade is underway. The

upgrade is expected to breathe new life into the iconic

boutique lodge’s 86 cabins. In fact, rumour has it that the

luxurious updates – which include brand-new King Billy

Suites, a new reception space, two new guest lounges for

the Waldheim Alpine Spa and luxe upgrades, to the famed

Tavern Bar & Bistro – may even come close to outshining

the awe-inspiring scenery and mind-blowing surroundings.

cradlemountainlodge.com.au

DRINK UP

Sustainable, stylish and practical, the Corkcicle range features

triple-insulated thermoses, tumblers, canteens and stemless wine

cups. And it’s now available in Australia from Mr and Mrs Jones,

Surfstich and The Iconic. The US-based brand has a cult

following among the style set, counting Oprah and Julia Roberts

among its celebrity fans. All products are BPA-free with a

slip-proof silicone base, and can keep your favourite micro-brew,

G&T or rosé ice cold for up to 25 hours. We’ll drink to that.

corkcicle.com

WAX ON

Calling all surfers: the Clean Ocean

Foundation Australia has developed a surf

wax designed to neutralise the growing

acidity of our oceans caused by carbon

emissions. To protect our reefs, the

SmartWax developers implore all surf wax

brands to adopt this formula, which they say

would convert 112 million litres of ocean

water daily globally. smart-wax.com.au

HAPPY CAMPERS

Even the least enthusiastic campers can

now take their minds off their sad excuses

for mattresses and the hum of loitering

insects, with an expertly concocted

cocktail in hand. Learn to love the

great outdoors with a little help from

Camp Cocktails, a collection of delightful

yet effortless swills for valiant vacationers.

murdochbooks.com.au

2A favourite amongst dreamers and adventurers

alike, Byron Bay is set to hit the top of everyone’s

must-visit list yet again, especially when we all

come out of self-isolation. It’s all thanks to the newly

completed seven contemporary beach houses of The

Norfolk (above). Soaked with natural light, echoing

with the sounds of the nearby ocean, and with a focus on

functional design and high-end furnishings, the Norfolk

Bayshore Drive is a recently completed row of houses

and studios perfectly situated within walking distance

of The Stone and Wood brewery, the Arts

and Industry Estate and Elements Resort.

norfolkbyronbay.com.au

Edited by Rosemary Slade & Sonya Gellert

@sonya_gellert

@somestylishchick

DELICIOUS.COM.AU/TRAVEL Go online for more

travel news from Australia and around the world.

CRADLE MOUNTAIN LODGE PHOTOGRAPHY CAMERON BLAKE


INSIDER.

ONE VINE DAY

Dreaming of driving through cellar doors right now? Us too. In the

meantime, these top drops and elevated wine accessories will transport

you straight to the vineyards. Just add cheese platter.

PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS COURT

STYLING EMMALY STEWART

5

7

8

3

6

1

9

2

4

10

13

15

14

12

11

15

1. Plumm ‘Flinders’ decanter, $129.95, plumm.com 2. Petaluma Piccadilly Valley Chardonnay 2017, $49.99, from Dan Murphy’s (danmurphys.com.au)

3. Ralph Lauren ‘Garrett’ ice bucket, $565, from Palmer & Penn (palmerandpenn.com.au) 4. Plumm Three No.3 wine glass, $89.95 (for a pair), plumm.com

5. Courabyra Wines 1 of 11 Pinot Gris 2015, $26, courabyrawines.com 6. Johansen Wines Sauvignon Blanc 2019, $24, johansenwines.com.au 7. Ralph Lauren

‘Bailey’ single wine tote, $799, from Palmer & Penn (palmerandpenn.com.au) 8. Anderson Hill Sparkling Chardonnay 2019, $162 (for a case of 6), andersonhill.

worldsecuresystems.com 9. Obsession Wines Tempranillo 2018, $180 (for a case of 6), obsessionwines.com.au 10. Riedel Decanter Marne, $279.95, riedel.com/

en-au 11. Wine holder, $59, from West Elm (westelm.com.au) 12. Plumm stemless REDb wine glasses, $69.99 (for a set of 4), plumm.com 13. Simon Tolley

Perfectus Pinot Noir 2019, $50, simontolley.com.au 14. PB wine tool essential set – wine stopper, $89, from Pottery Barn (potterybarn.com.au) 15. Ralph Lauren

‘Garrett’ coaster, $149 (for a set of 4), from Palmer & Penn (palmerandpenn.com.au)


island home

PHOTOGRAPHY CHRISTOS DRAZOS

into the bowl using only a pairing knife in

his hand. The following day, I was ushered

from a Thalasso spa treatment to the

terrace Bacos Bar at Naia in time for

sunset, where I witnessed a shimmering

sun, the same colour as my Aperol Spritz,

melt into the Aegean while Andrea Bocelli

sang his swan song at full volume.

While the Myconian Collection takes

luxury to extreme heights with these sorts

of ‘pinch me’ experiences and immaculate

design-led properties that cater to every

need from bespoke itineraries to luxe

rooms with private swimming pools, the

underlying dedication to hospitality

reminds you that this is a family business

deeply rooted in the Myconian way of life.

Vangelis, who grew up on the island and

still lives there with his wife and children, is

keen to share his version of Mykonos

outside of the tourist hotspots, whether

that’s via a private yacht charter to a bay

he grew up fishing with his father, or a

cooking class at a local farmstead.

EAT & DRINK

Noa at Myconian Kyma, puts a modern

spin on Greek classics, while adhering to

traditional rules when it comes to

generous portions, so order wisely if you

intend to have any space left for the Greek

custard pie galaktoboureko! Highlights

include feta in pie crust with honey and

nuts, golden fried anchovies and grilled

octopus with fava- bean puree.

For fun fine dining in a futuristic ’60s

setting, head to Baos at Myconian Korali

after a sunset aperitivo at the adjacent

Bacos Bar. Service is as warm as the

rockmelon-coloured interior and the

highlight is the fish of the day served with

seasonal wild greens.

George’s Bar and Efisia, overlooking

the pool deck at Myconian Ambassador,

are an ode to where it all began. During

the day, salads, sushi boards and bagels

are served poolside, and in the evening,

the space transforms for cocktail sipping

and an a la carte menu featuring lamb and

pork, grown on the family farm, and fish

caught by George off the island of Rhenia.

Try the Cretan macaroni skioufichta with

pine nuts, cranberries and octopus, and

roasted Myconian lamb.

In town, Captain’s on the waterfront

is a local-favourite. The scent of cigarette

smoke and black coffee mingles with

the sea air over tables of men nursing

espresso cups and beer glasses, and

the menu features meze, such as

talagani grilled cheese with pita, dip

plates, and charred octopus tentacle

with fava-bean puree.

Be prepared to wait at Kiki’s Tavern,

a beach shack tucked away at Agios Sostis

beach, with no sign, no reservations and

no electricity. Arrive well ahead of lunch

and sip the complimentary wine ahead of

a hearty home-cooked feast that includes

marinated octopus, plenty of salads,

saganaki, grilled sea bass and pork chops.

SEE & DO

The small rocky island of Delos is home to

OUL

EARC

If you’re looking for a

place with heart, Memphis

is a real contender.

Max Brearley explores

the US city’s history, arts,

culture and out-of-thisworld

food offering, and

learns to love the Blues

along the way.

PHOTOGRAPHY SARAH HEWER

The city’s street art

nods to its roots.

OPPOSITE: The Gray

Canary is one of the

latest hot spots

for cocktails and

casual dining.

CITY GUIDE.

rom the rooftop bar of boutique

Hu Hotel we see the mighty

Mississippi River flow and the bones of

Memphis. The hotel’s Lifestyle manager,

Chad West, says with a Southern drawl

that “Memphis is a city of serendipity”

where spirited millennials are carving out

a city beyond blues and the legacy of

Elvis. West talks of buildings vacant for

decades springing back to life, and the

near demolition of icons like the

Peabody Hotel, famed for its daily

duck parade.

We’re in Memphis as it turns 200.

In a few short days the city captivates us

as much for the people and their

enthusiasm, as for the history. WC Handy

fathered the Blues here. From a brick

studio storefront, Sun Studios, Elvis

Presley cut discs: his music and his hips

shook a generation. Graceland, the Blues

Hall of Fame, Stax and Sun Studios are all

part of musical pilgrimages. Beale Street

is touristic, but still pumping, and you’ll

find music clubs all over the city. Picking

up a copy of the street press, we enlist

elderly bluesmen at the Blues Hall of

Fame, circling clubs and scribbling acts

in the margin.

Gus’s World Famous Chicken, a squat

single-storey building in the South Main

Arts District, is a constant echo. “You

been to Gus’s yet?” To answer “yes”

draws satisfied nods. Now franchised,

this is the original. White tiled walls, a

pressed-tin ceiling, gingham tablecloths

and well-worn chairs are all part of a

patina of decades. The waitresses, adept

at drawing a healthy tip, are another part

of Gus’s charm. Fried green tomatoes,

battered, thick and salty are hot and

crisp, and an order of dark thigh meat

forges a new benchmark, the crisp

coating tenders a lasting burn.

Back at the Hu Diner, the hotel’s

street-level bar and restaurant, there are

modern takes on Southern staples such

as octopus and grits, fried chicken livers,

catfish and lots of fried chicken. A laidback

vibe pervades at this diner, and it’s

very much like the hotel itself – one of

many refurbished buildings that are part

of this wave of change.

Around South Main, galleries and

stores tell new and old stories of the

neighbourhood. Eric Nielsen, owner of

South Front Antiques, recounts his

father’s decision to set up here in the

aftermath of Dr Martin Luther King’s

assassination, a few blocks over at the

Lorraine Motel (now the powerful

National Civil Rights Museum). People

thought it brave, if not foolish. Dr King’s

death set in motion a rapid and lasting

decline of Downtown, along a racial fault

line. Downtown gentrification is, for

some, Lazarus-like.

South Main Market, a destination for

young Memphians, houses a cohort of

food and drink businesses, a casual food

hall and established names like cocktail

bar, Civil Pour. On the adjacent corner

sits contemporary retailer, Stock & Belle,

which supports Southern creatives, and is

also home to Lo Fi Coffee. Owners

David Pender and Bailey Biggers fell for

Memphis back in 2017, and before long

put down roots and staked their place in

the hearts of Downtown coffee lovers

max_brearley

@maxbrearley

CLOCKWISE: Hu Diner;

iconic rock’n’roll stop,

Sun Studio; Hu Hotel’s stylish

lounge area; where you can

sip on a cocktail (inset);

the very hip South Main

district; Memphis staple:

fried chicken and waffles;

Lo Fi Coffee’s David Pender

and Bailey Biggers.

CITY GUIDE.

CLOCKWISE: Today

and Always cafe;

top Italian fare at

Catherine & Mary’s;

chef Raymond

Jackson; soul food at

The Four Way.

brigade motors. Tortellini with housemade

veal mortadella is revelatory. I

came to Memphis in search of Southern

staples but I found exemplary modern

Italian. Case in point: a seasonal soft-shell

crab brought up from the Gulf is not

drawing on Italy, nor Asia; it’s a Southerninspired

dish with Creole heritage.

Away from Downtown, Jose and

Jennifer Velázquez have lovingly restored

The James Lee House. A historic-hometurned-art-school,

it fell into disrepair

over decades but is now one of the city’s

grandest places to stay while maintaining

its B&B charm.

True to the nature of Memphians,

native or adopted, Jose points us to

Crosstown Concourse, describing it as

a “city within a city”. This 1.5-millionsquare-feet

space was a former Sears,

Roebuck & Co distribution centre and

retail store between 1927 and 1993, and

was a blight on closure. Resistance to

demolition paved the way for a thriving

food-and-arts hub, as well as offices.

Crosstown Brewing Co. calls it home, as

does Global Kitchen, where immigrant

and refugee women from Syria, Sudan

and Venezuela cook traditional dishes.

Today and Always is a cafe and

coffee shop helmed by chef Raymond

Jackson, who cooks for artists in

residence at Crosstown Arts. And there

is also nearby Art Bar, a small cocktail

bar that opens to a warren of spaces

populated with vintage pieces. Muralist

Toonky Berry strikes up conversation

over a cocktail, his enthusiasm for the

street-mural scene contagious.

The Four Way hums with local

chatter. This neighbourhood soul-food

restaurant, opened in 1946, is kept alive

by owner Patrice Thompson, passed

from her father, who in turn kept it going

when its founders fell on hard times.

In this dining room a legacy was formed;

a meeting place during the Civil Rights

era, diners over the years included Dr

King, Jesse Jackson, Aretha Franklin,

Issac Hayes, Elvis and a continuing

roll call. In many ways it embodies

Memphis old and new: welcoming,

unassuming and hopeful.

GUIDE TO

STOCKHOLM

Rachel Khoo’s move to Stockholm four years ago has given

her a newer, more profound love for the Swedish capital.

@rachelkhooks

IT’S NOT FOR nothing that Stockholm is

Swedes take a dip in the winter too.

You could also take a ferry out to the

called the Venice of the North. Stockholm

There are a few public saunas on the

archipelago from Slussen. The

is made of small islands connected via

water (one in Hornstull) where I’ve

archipelago islands are where

various bridges. It’s a smallish city that’s

spotted people cracking the ice to

most Stockholmers have their summer

easy to navigate on foot or bicycle (great

make a hole to jump in after sweating

cottages (the islands are dotted with

cycle lanes), but I think the best way to

it out in the sauna.

little colourful wooden cabins).

see the city from a different perspective

If getting wet or the risk of remotely

Obviously participating in the

is by hiring a kayak.

wet is not your cup of tea, then I would

Swedish tradition of fika (there’s no

There are a few locations around

recommend getting one of the ferries.

direct translation but it means taking

the city. One of them on the Stockholm

You can take one from Slussen to

the time to have a coffee and sweet

‘island/neighbourhood’ Långholmen

Djurgården which is literally just across

treat, usually bun) is a must. In general,

which also has a lovely beach (please

don’t expect Bondi – this is a Swedish

beach which is a bit more rustic – also

it’s freshwater and sea/salt water! The

water in Stockholm is very clean and

in the summer people go swimming

– although you might see some hardcore

the water (will save you crossing several

bridges) where there’s the beautiful royal

park that has the lovely cafe and garden

shop Rosendahl Trädgården, Skansen

(zoo and amusement park), Vasa

museum and quite a

few other museums.

when people fika they usually have

a cinammon or cardamom bun.

My favourite bakery is Lillebrors Bageri.

Its cardamom buns are not for the faint

hearted – heavily laced with cardamom

and sugar and drenched in butter. The

best buns are the ones where the sugar

THIS PAGE GETTY IMAGES


PASSPORT.

“I’D QUITE HAPPILY

SPEND A WHOLE

EVENING HERE SIPPING

WINE AND SAMPLING

THE FOOD. ”

CLOCKWISE: enjoy

a cocktail (inset) at

Lucy’s Flower Shop; herring

with cheese; the iconic

Pelikan restaurant; classic

cardamom buns;

elevated snacks at

Tyge & Sessil wine bar.

OPPOSITE: Stockholm’s

streets are full of

character.

MAY

2020

77

INDEX

STARTERS,

SIDES & LIGHT

MEALS

Broccolini, sage and lemon butter,

currant pangrattato (V).........................p 46

Citrus-cured salmon with mustard

dressing................................................p 71

Fried green tomatoes (V).........................p 63

Good pickles (V).......................................p 63

Macaroon bil toum, tomato, sumac,

chickpea (V)..........................................p 71

Marjoram & garlic baguette with

spanakopita dip (V) ..............................p 43

Oyster mushroom shish, toum, pine nut and

parsley (V).............................................p 71

Pan-roasted duck, muhammara,

pomegranate .......................................p 72

Radicchio & pear salad with blue cheese

and walnuts (V).....................................p 86

Roast carrots, dill, maple, harissa

and hummus (V)...................................p 72

Scallop tartare, kohlrabi and apple .........p 18

Sour cream, parsnip & potato mash (V) ..p 43

Sugar snap peas, ras el hanout and

split peas (V).........................................p 69

“THESE

FLOURLESS

CAKES HAVE

A REAL

WARMTH.”

– Matt Moran

Burnt butter, almond

and honey cake

INDEX.

SWEET THINGS

48

Plum & walnut crumble slice............... p 101

Pumpkin cake with marsala

Apple hazelnut cake with caramel

ricotta cream .......................................p 46

custard .................................................p 96 Ricotta and polenta loaf cake with roast

Banana and coconut cake with lemon

rhubarb ................................................p 92

icing .....................................................p 88 Strawberry, apple & rhubarb

Banana & hazelnut crumble brownie...p 102 crumble............................................. p 104

Banana spice cake with buttermilk

Warmed spiced Montenegro, orange

glaze.....................................................p 94 and soaked prunes .............................p 43

Blueberry & lemon curd crumble ....... p 105

Burnt butter, almond and honey cake...p 96

Fig & pistachio crumble cake.............. p 102

Fudgy chocolate tahini cake ..................p 94

Hand pies ................................................p 64

Honey & thyme panna cotta, Campari

and rhubarb granita............................p 22

Mandarin, pistachio and yoghurt cake..p 94

Pear & cardamom crumble muffins .... p 104

Pineapple & coconut crumble ............ p 104

OFFICIAL TEST KITCHEN SUPPLIER:

Our meat is supplied by Vic’s Meat (vicsmeat.com.au).

(v) denotes vegetarian recipe

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delicious.com.au

SPECIAL EDITION

DRINKS

NEW

GUARD

MEET THE GAME

CHANGERS MIXING

IT UP IN THE WORLD

OF AUSSIE DRINKS

Caramel &

apple hot

toddy with

cinnamon

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DELICIOUS. AND DRINKS go together like a martini and an

PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS

olive. Or Champagne and fries. Or gin and tonic. You get the

drift… Drinks are a natural part of the delicious. experience.

Whether you’re eating in, and want the perfect drop to match

with your dinner, or a line-up to impress for your entertainer’s

feast. Or you’re (eventually) eating out and want to know the best

bars and cocktails around town, or the hotspots to get a coffee in

your ’hood. Perhaps you’d like to know the latest news or a recipe

to make the perfect Negroni? We have you covered. We know

the delicious. audience is thirsty for more (boom tish, particularly

gin) and we’ve had a lot of fun creating a whole new world inside

the magazine and online. We’ll be debuting a new column this

month, called the Critic (Mike Bennie) and the Comic (Merrick

Watts). They’ll be set a drinks-matching challenge by our food

director, Phoebe Wood, each month. And we’re welcoming

a range of new experts and opinion writers – such as Chris

Morrison, Kate Peck and Liinaa Berry, aka the Wine Sheriff

– to the delicious. line up. We’ve created a special mini magazine

here to celebrate our launch, and of course, we’ll see you online

at the all-new delicious.com.au/drinks. Consider those

Champagne corks popped!

Kerrie McCallum, Editor-in-chief

Follow me: @kerriemccallum @kerrie_mccallum

WELCOME

12

16

4

Port Punch, see delicious.

com.au/drinks for more

recipes like this.

delicious.com.au 3

UP AND

New methods, indigenous ingredients and

redefining ‘dry’ – a brave new world of drinks is

here, and Lara Picone gets to know some of the

country’s top innovators leading the way.

PERHAPS MORE THAN anywhere, we Australians love to share

a drink. And because we so enjoy socialising, a celebratory toast,

and the sound of ice against glass, we have an uncommon

respect for the arts of winemaking, distilling and brewing.

“It’s very rare anywhere on earth that people have the same

cognisance around wine regions and varieties,” says delicious.

drinks guru Mike Bennie. It’s little surprise then, that from vine

to vat, Australia is a stronghold when it comes to innovation

in the drinks industry.

Merrily, in the past three years, there’s been a real swing

toward innovation that comes with a healthy pour of do-gooding,

from commitment to provenance, land care, indigenous

ingredients, and even social responsibility. “We’ve never been

more innovative,” says Bennie. “There’s a sense of adventure and

general excitement within the industry.”

Here, we speak to five trailblazing labels to keep an eye

on – all intent on giving your drinking habits a good stir. Let’s

drink to that!

UP AND COMERS.

@grandvewecheeses

Ryan Hartshorn in his

element; the experimental

Whey-Sky; samples (inset);

Hartshorn bottles at the

cellar door; products of

the distilling process.

OPPOSITE: Applewood

Distillery

@hartshorndistillery

HARTSHORN DISTILLERY, TAS

RYAN HARTSHORN

What happens when you achieve your life

goal after just two years in its pursuit?

When Ryan Hartshorn’s Sheep Whey

Vodka won the gong for ‘World’s

Best Vodka’ at the World Vodka Awards

in 2018, the self-taught distiller was,

understandably, a good deal shocked.

The unexpected victory demanded a

new, more formidable ambition. And so

Ryan of Hartshorn Distillery in southern

Tasmania (grandvewe.com.au/hartshorndistillery)

set to work innovating a whey

whisky, again using the bi-product from his

family’s cheesery, Grandvewe.

The first iteration of Whey-Sky was never

intended to reach the palates of

consumers, but Hartshorn decided to

release his elementary attempt. “It started

as an experiment. Batch One sold out in

24 hours,” he says. “I was stunned.”

Seemingly, Hartshorn is on his way to

comprehensively smashing through

another life goal – remarkable for

someone who learnt how to distil from

books and chat forums in an attempt to

save his family’s business from bankruptcy.

“For the first eight months I was learning

how to distil, I was constantly thinking how

I could make this distillery relevant to our

cheesery,” says Hartshorn. Then he read

about whey fermentation. The idea

dovetailed perfectly with his plans for the

distillery and his family’s commitment to

waste reduction and sustainability. “I’m a

firm believer that every business needs to

take their environmental and social impact

seriously,” he says. “It’s our mission to be a

positive disruptor in all that we do.”

The Whey-Sky, although not technically

a whisky, is a step in the right disruption.

The double-distilled whey gives way to

maple aromas laced with citrus spice and

languishes in sherry barrels for a good

three years before bottling, so be

prepared to wait for Batch Two.

delicious.com.au 5

UP AND COMERS.

Laura and Brendan Carter at

Unico Zelo; copper vats at

Applewood Distillery.

OPPOSITE: A spot to sit at

Applewood; Lozen and

Clinton Schultz, Sobah

Pepperberry IPA (inset);

Applewood’s gin (inset).

MAKE

BITTERS.”

UNICO ZELO AND APPLEWOOD, SA

BRENDAN AND LAURA CARTER

Brendan Carter, winemaker and distiller of Unico Zelo and

Applewood Distillery (unicozelo.com.au; applewooddistillery.com.

au), is telling a story about dining with a buyer from Dubai’s

Jumeirah Group at Adelaide’s Restaurant Orana. Staggered by

the native Australian ingredients he was experiencing for the first

time, the buyer turned to Brendan with amazement. “I have no

past standard for what I am tasting. You’re introducing to me an

entire new array of flavours – it’s like I’m a child again,” he said.

For Brendan, whose passion has always been to create

products he refers to as “distilled through the lens of Australian

sunglasses”, this comment confirmed what he’s long believed:

that this land is home to incredibly unique flavours unlike

anywhere else. “Imagine how powerful this could be for us in our

culture as the world becomes more connected,” says Brendan.

When Brendan and his wife, Laura, began producing wine and

spirits, they were barely in their twenties. It may have been

youthful optimism, but rather than talking about the process of

making wine as was the norm, they chose to focus on the land.

Their am ne using grapes as close to a native variety as

agriculturally possible.

Once they began Applewood Distillery, a new indigenous

flavour was unlocked. “Unico Zelo is trying to find what a native

grape variety would look like if one existed,” explains Brendan,

“while Applewood accepts that the best thing we can actually

grow here is native.”

Brendan says he has been floored by the array of native

citrus, such as desert lime, which features heavily in their gin.

Their Australian amaro, Okar, features the bitter tang

of Davidson plums and riberries. “When life gives you lemons,

make bitters,” he says.

The Carters’ commitment to the land has led them to acquire

B Corporation certification, which is the world standard in verified

and transparent social and environmental practices. It wasn’t an

easy process, but for Brendan, it was imperative. “I think people

should compete to be more sustainable because it’s going to

drive innovation.”

@unicozelo

@applewooddistillery

SOBAH, QLD

CLINTON AND LOZEN SCHULTZ

It wasn’t long after giving up drinking in

2013 that Clinton Schultz realised Australia

needed to have a little talk about the

stigma of socialising sober.

Virtually laughed out of the bar for

requesting a non-alcoholic beer, it became

gratingly obvious to Clinton that not only

was a decent booze-free alternative

desperately needed, but that as a nation,

we just don’t know how to approach the

subject of voluntary sobriety. “I wanted to

know why non-alcoholic drinks weren’t

offered at venues, and why non-drinkers

were made to feel shame for making a

lifestyle choice,” he recalls.

Both a proud Gamilaroi man from

Yugambeh Country (Gold Coast) and

a psychologist working in the drug and

alcohol space, Clinton felt compelled to

create a profit-for-good business that

began a conversation around alcohol

consumption. Despite scoffs from

beer-swilling mates, he started looking

into brewing a craft beer that was uniquely

Australian and, more uniquely,

non-alcoholic.

His research uncovered a specific strain

of maltose-intolerant yeast, which enabled

him to brew without the production of

ethanol. Once he had the basics, Clinton,

who happens to be a former chef, began

playing with native ingredients and the

first Sobah (sobah.com.au) brew hit taps.

Initially sold at his native food truck

business, it wasn’t long before Sobah was

drawing thirsty hordes. After a crowdfunding

campaign, Clinton and his wife,

Lozen, launched Sobah into production

and now the sober-curious can purchase

tinnies made with ethically sourced

indigenous ingredients, such as the Lemon

Aspen Pilsner, Finger Lime Cerveza and

Pepperberry IPA.

Still just a start-up, Clinton admits

he’s often frustrated with his inability

to give back as much as he’d like, yet he’s

bolstered by the fact we’re willing to pay

more for a business with a sense of social

justice. “People now, particularly the

younger generation, are looking for what

is more ethical, what is more sustainable,”

he says.

@sobahbeverages

delicious.com.au 7

VALLEE DU VENOM, WA

RHYS PARKER

@vallee_du_venom

“[I’M] JUST

TRYING TO

FIND A WINE

IT CAME

FROM.”

As a teenager, Rhys Parker would lend a hand on his mate’s

family vineyard in the Swan Valley. But, beyond a tannin-stained

summer job, the idea of making wine for a living never gripped

him. That was until life behind a desk as an environmental

scientist began to lose its air-conditioned lustre.

“I needed to get back outside and I saw winemaking as a way

to combine science and the environment,” he says, adding that

the surf in WA’s southwest might have provided a further nudge.

Parker’s Dunsborough-based operation, Vallée du Venom, is

only in its fourth vintage, but already has been earmarked as one

to watch. Last year the label won the Young Guns of Wine Best

New Act thanks to a pet-nat and a red Parker describes as

‘ambitious’. “The odds are I should have messed that wine up

terribly, but it worked out okay,” he jokes.

As is popular these days, Vallée du Venom is a minimalintervention

enterprise, but rather than an ambition to be

fashionable, Parker says he’s “just trying to make a wine that

represents the vineyard it came from.” His low-fi approach

comes from a sense of responsibility to the environment and a

decision to remove, rather than add, chemicals. “I find growers

who grow organically or minimise the use of chemicals. It’s in line

with my ethos of winemaking,” says Parker.

Apart from striving to make wine “I can just bloody sell”,

Parker is in the process of converting a Dunsborough warehouse

into a winery. So watch this space.

delicious.com.au 9

INSIDER.

MIX MASTERS

Kick off your very own delicious. Drinks the right way – with cocktails. These high-quality

spirits and garnishes will make you the expert. Then shake, stir and swig with the best of

them using classic glassware and serveware for the finest sips, bar none.

PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS COURT

STYLING EMMALY STEWART

1. Japanese brass cocktail spoon, $18, from The DEA Store (thedeastore.com) 2. Starward Two-Fold Double Grain Whisky, $65, starward.com.au 3. Riedel

‘Shadows’ whisky decanter, $249 (part of a set of 3), riedel.com/en-au 4. Brass bottle opener, $75, from The DEA Store (thedeastore.com) 5. Mary Valley Food

Co Dried Orange, $17 (70g), maryvalleyfoodco.com 6. Aerin ‘Shagreen’ ice bucket, $999, from Palmer & Penn (palmerandpenn.com.au) 7. Chelsea barware

- tongs, $16, from West Elm (westelm.com.au) 8. ‘Crumple’ whisky glass, $119, from The DEA Store (thedeastore.com) 9. Dorset cocktail shaker, $160, from

Williams Sonoma (williams-sonoma.com.au) 10. Lyre’s Italian Spritz, $44.99, lyres.com.au 11 & 12. Williams Sonoma round gold flask, $79, and stainless-steel

cocktail picks, $26 (for a set of 6), williams-sonoma.com.au 13. Black marble coasters, $34 (for a set of 4), from Pottery Barn (potterybarn.com.au)

14. Riedel ‘Nick & Nora’ glassware, $49.95 (for a pair), riedel.com/en-au 15. Dinosaur Designs resin cheese platter in Clay Swirl, $420 (dinosaurdesigns.com.au)

16. Julep bar strainer, $12, from The DEA Store (thedeastore.com) 17. Negroni Marble chocolates, $9.90 from Koko Black (kokoblack.com) 18 & 19. Japanese

whisky/dressing jug, $29, and Japanese copper jigger, $13, from The DEA Store (thedeastore.com) 20. Riedel mixing glass, $79.95, riedel.com/en-au

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THE CRITIC’S PICKS

CRITIC & THE COMIC

RAISE A TOAST TO

THE SAUSAGE ROLL

GRIFTER PINK GALAH

PINK LEMONADE SOUR

BEER, $5.50

A little touch of childhood

in every can, or so

I imagine the tagline goes.

This is just like your kid’s

RSL pink lemonade only

it’s beer and it’s sourer

and tangier. Such joy

matched with this

sausage roll.

SWAN VALLEY WINES

BORGHESI METODO

CLASSICO SPARKLING

NV, $28

This feels a little fancier

than the price point and by

virtue of that makes you

feel a little fancier. Crisp,

crunchy and dry with

vivacious bubbles and

citrus-meets-apple

flavours. Dresses up this

dish nicely.

LOBO TRAD CIDER, $5

Cider and pork is a holy

union and this traditional

cider from one of

Australia’s best cider

makers is a treat with this

dish. The dry, apple-y

tang cuts through the

sweet meat and pastry –

it’s magic in the mouth.

THE COMIC’S WILDCARD

THE SPARKLING SHIRAZ:

BLEASDALE SPARKLING

SHIRAZ, FROM

LANGHORNE CREEK SA

I love this stuff, rich red and

black fruits with a slightly

salty fizz (not quite Alka-

Seltzer) adding a little bite

– excellent for sausage rolls.

At around the $25 dollar

mark, it’s a no brainer!

PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS FOOD PHOTOGRAPHY JEREMY SIMONS STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS

MIKE BENNIE IS ALSO CO-OWNER OF A SYDNEY-BASED WINE AND LIQUOR RETAIL BUSINESS

I’M LOVING.

I LOVE... COCKTAILS

WITH A SPIRIT OF FUN

Not one to stick to convention, Matt Preston’s love for things with character

extends to his drinks list. Refresh your usual tipple with this effervescent creation.

I LOVE A drink, and while there is nothing wrong with knocking

the top off a stubby or opening a cheeky bottle of sauv blanc

(no matter what the wine snobs say), I prefer the reliable

consistency of spirits. The twang of a good G&T, the pleasure

of a perfectly balanced martini, or the joy of a rum and Coke

at the footy.

Back in the ’50s, it was far more common for a home to have a

bar, and the cocktail shaker to be employed regularly. Cocktails

in the 2020s, however, are a far more egalitarian affair – no fancy

cocktail shaker or strainer required. Just chill your glasses and

away you go! Here are some of my favourite mixed drinks to

make at home for friends.

DIRTY NEGRONI from a San Fran biker dive bar

On assignment for delicious. with photographer Catherine

Sutherland, we hit a dive bar that was a former Hell’s Angels

hang-out and – after we’d drunk enough ‘manly’ beers –

persuaded the big bloke in the leather waistcoat behind the bar

to make us Negronis. After all, we explained, it was just a shot of

gin, vermouth and Campari; all of which were standing there in all

their fading ‘seldom-opened-since-Easy Rider-was-on-release’

glory. The drink was rough but passable – all the sugar! The

solution was to disguise with a little salt rim on the next round.

By round four it hit us: we could add brine from the olive jar

instead. We’d worked in Madrid the year before and fell in love

with the combination of vermouth and green olives at the

vermut bars there. Orange zest with the olives would have been

the perfect tweak but I wasn’t man enough to ask for a threeolive-and-orange-zest

stick garnish, which lifts this drink to a

greater level. Oh, and add a little less Campari and use a good

vermouth for the best results. Use about a teaspoon of brine for

every 90ml drink, or more if you are feeling a bit hairy.

ELDERFLOWER & ROSE GIN GARDEN

Miss Pearls was, and is, a doyenne of Melbourne bar culture at

her zenith, presiding over the rather louche Madame Brussels

rooftop bar in much the same way Catherine the Great ran the

Russian court. It was dangerous fun, the go-to drink was a jug of

its Gin Garden. I have zero recollections of what was in it, but

come summer you’ll find me pre-mixing 500ml of elderflower

cordial with 700ml of good gin so I can pour this mix with soda

to order. If I get my sh*t together I will have infused the skins of

cucumbers in the gin for 24 hours beforehand. By the way, all

the sugar in the cordial disguises the booziness of the drink so

be careful. You can make this drink with an elderflower liqueur

like St Germain, but it’s much more expensive! Garnish with

slices of peach, cucumber and pop a nasturtium leaf on top so it

looks like a pretty pond. This summer I got fancy and started

garnishing with a spritz of rosewater and swirl of fresh raspberry

juice, which brings a pretty pink blush to the drink.

BILLY TEA

Driving through the dry country of the Mitchell Plateau in the far

north of WA, ice is a luxury. So when you find it, celebrate with

this simple libation that is perfect for slaking away the dust from

seven hours driving over corrugations. This cocktail is best

made in an old billy can where it was originally conceived. Place

two sliced lemons in the can and then pour in 1 litre of apple

juice and two bottles of the best ginger beer. Add whisky to

taste – we are talking at least half a bottle. Yes, you can swing

the billy round in a big circle like you are a vintage swagman –

but only if you are around a campfire and never when you are

making the second round. Serve in enamel camping mugs filled

with ice. The cocktail has the colour of weak billy tea but has

somewhat more punch.

PEAR & ROSEMARY GIN FIZZ

Often when people demand I make them a cocktail, there’s lots

of booze available but few mixers, so I have to improvise. This is

one such example of MacGyvering my way out of a situation.

Pear and apple both love the flavour of rosemary but while

I prefer apple juice with whisky, I think pear juice has a beautiful

affinity with good gin.

Head to delicious.com.au for more of Matt’s favourite drink

ideas, including a ripping rum and mandarin tea, the Black

Headed Vulture, the Pickleback, and even something for the

designated driver.

PEAR & ROSEMARY GIN FIZZ

MAKES 1

You can reduce the pear juice by 30ml, and use tonic instead of

soda water for a more boozy-tasting version.

1 /4 cup (60ml) gin

1 /2 cup (125ml) chilled pear juice

Juice of 1 lemon, plus lemon slices, to serve

1 rosemary sprig

1 /4 cup (60ml) chilled soda water

Loosely fill the glass with ice, then pour over the gin and the

pear juice. Add a good squeeze of lemon and swizzle

enthusiastically with the rosemary sprig (cut stem down) and

leave in the glass. Add a few slices of lemon and top with soda

just before serving.

PHOTOGRAPHY MARK ROPER STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS

14 delicious.com.au

BEYOND

Ellie and Sam Studd are shining

not your average cheese.

@thestuddsiblings

CHEDDAR IS AUSTRALIA’S most

SELECTING & STORING

1 lemon wedge, ice, and cornichons,

popular cheese. All too often, though,

Buy cheddar freshly cut from the wheel

drained, to serve

the name refers to an industrially made,

to get a taste of clothbound cheddar.

100g clothbound cheddar (we used

processed brick of cheese aged in plastic

Use cheese paper or reusable beeswax

Will Studd Farmhouse Cheddar)

and with words like ‘sharp’ or ‘tasty’ on

food wrap to cover the cheese, and store

the packaging.

in the vegetable drawer of the fridge to

DILL PICKLE SALT

Enter genuine artisanal clothbound

maintain optimal humidity and keep the

1 tsp dried dill

cheddar. Authentic cheddar is made using

cheese fresher for longer.

1 tbs citric acid (from supermarkets)

the time-honoured technique of

‘cheddaring’, which involves hand-tacking

blocks of formed curd into small towers to

force out the whey and acidity, then milling

and salting it. The best examples are then

wrapped in muslin or cloth, sealed with

lard and matured for at least one year.

The maturing process for a proper

clothbound cheddar is a labour-intensive

process, so authentic cheddar may cost

a bit more than its supermarket namesake.

But from the moment you experience the

evocative flavours, earthy aroma, firm,

moist texture and lingering tang of real

cheddar, you’ll never miss the massproduced

stuff again.

BLOODY MARY & CHEDDAR

SERVES 4

We discovered this Bloody Mary and

cheese pairing recently, and it’s now a

brunch staple!

4 cups (1L) good-quality tomato juice

100ml vodka or bourbon

Worcestershire sauce, to taste

Tabasco sauce, to taste

1 tsp each celery salt, Dijon mustard,

wholegrain mustard and

cornichon brine

5cm piece fresh horseradish, grated,

or 1 tbs jarred

1 tbs onion powder

1 /2 tsp granulated garlic

For the dill pickle salt, combine ingredients

with 1 /2 tsp each salt and black pepper in

a bowl and combine. Transfer to a plate.

Place all ingredients, except lemon, ice,

cornichons and cheddar, in a large jug.

Season to taste and stir to combine.

Rub the rim of 4 glasses with lemon,

then dip in dill pickle salt. Fill each glass

with ice, then pour in Bloody Mary and

top with cornichons on a cocktail stick.

Serve alongside sizeable pieces of

cheddar for an earthy, punchy addition

to a brunch beverage.

PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS COURT STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS


16 delicious.com.au

GRAND MASTER

CHECK IN.

“IT TAKES 60

METICULOUSLY

PRECISE,

SWIFT-MOVING

HANDS TO

COMPLETE THIS

PARTICULAR

TEQUILA-MAKING

PROCESS.”

(inset). OPPOSITE: Hacienda Patrón.

delicious.com.au 19

delicious Australia - May 2020

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