Interview: Sophie Arni

Photography: right, Sugarbombing, Kids in Riot, 1998. 220mm film. Courtesy of the artist.

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Shoes: Jessica Kessel’s upcoming Fall 2018 collection. Photo: Courtesy of Jessica Kessel.

@jessicakessel

@jessink

When and how did you start

creating?

When I was a little girl, I would

stand in front of stained glass

windows and stare at shoes, mostly

the ones that made a statement.

However, that stopped happening

over time. What I saw became

boring.

different spices, according to my day,

humor and cravings.

Salt and pepper are a must. Curry,

sweet paprika, nutmeg and mustard

are some of my favorites.

How do you define yourself?

I pursue my goals and I don’t think

there are impossible things. I do not

sit idly. I knock on doors. I walk

forward. I make mistakes and try

again. I’m also always wearing a

good pair of shoes. My designs

reflect who I am. I take risks by

making combinations between

textures and colors. I play with the

preset limits as to what a shoe should

look like. I work a lot in comfort. My

idea is to take down the idea of a

shoe as an obstacle, so to be used

both day and night without ever

losing elegance. I don't need to make

a serial production. I'd rather have

each shoe to be considered a unique

piece of art.

I deeply felt the need to make a

change. I studied with a master

shoemaker, Fernando López Bizcaíno.

When I tried on the first shoe

that I had put together with my bare

hands, the desire to create a full

collection was immense. A genuine

love was born and it still grows day

by day. I have a lot to say, a lot to tell

and making shoes is the way I found

to put it out there.

Fernando

Bizcaíno

Lopes

What is your favorite spice?

I love cooking and when I do, I use

Did you face any difficulties

being a woman artist in

Buenos Aires?

Personally, in the fashion design

world, it has not been a problem for

me to be a woman. I have had good

experiences. I think nowadays it is an

environment where both women

consumers and women designers

have a strong participation.

Although the conversation is slowly

changing, I sadly can’t speak for

every one of them.

Who is your favorite Spice

Girl?

I would combine the comfort of Mel

C and the extravagance of Ginger

Spice.

MelC

43

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51

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Who is the creative woman who inspires you the most?

E t e l A d n a n ( o f c o u r s e ! )

What are your three favorite cities?

3

N e w Y o r k , L o n d o n , S h a r j a h ( U A E )

What has been a defining moment of your career?

I h o p e i t ’ s t o m o r r o w .

M i c h è l e L a m y i s t h e c r e a t i v e c o l l a b o r a t o r o f A m e r i c a n d e s i g n e r R i c k O w e n s . S h e i s a n a r t i s t a n d b e h i n d - t h e - s c e n e s

p r o d u c e r w i t h 40+ y e a r s o f e x p e r i e n c e i n r e t a i l , d e s i g n , p e r f o r m a n c e a n d e v e n t p l a n n i n g . H e r c a r e e r h a s t a k e n h e r f r o m

l a w s c h o o l t o c a b a r e t s , f r o m G i l l e s D e l e u z e ’ s c l a s s r o o m t o s e t t i n g u p h e r o w n c a f e a n d n i g h t c l u b i n H o l l y w o o d . S h e

a l s o d e s i g n e d m a r b l e f u r n i t u r e a n d e x h i b i t e d a t t h e L o s A n g e l e s C o u n t y M u s e u m o f A r t a n d o r g a n i z e d a p e r f o r -

m a n c e a r t / b o a t p a r t y a t t h e l a s t 2015 V e n i c e B i e n n a l e . A $A P R o c k y w a s o n e o f t h e p a r t i c i p a n t s . T o g e t h e r w i t h a

f a n t a s t i c t e a m i n P a r i s , s h e r u n s t h e d a y - t o - d a y b u s i n e s s a n d c r e a t i v e i n p u t f o r R i c k O w e n s , w h i c h i n c l u d e s f a s h i o n a s

w e l l a s f u r n i t u r e .

M i c h è l e L a m yR i c k O w e n s

40

G i l l e s D e l e u z e

L A C M A

/ A $A P R o c k y

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Image unavailable for web-publishing

due to copyright restrictions.

L o u i s e B o u r g e o i s , J a n u s i n L e a t h e r J a c k e t , 1968. B r o n z e , d a r k a n d p o l i s h e d p a t i n a , h a n g i n g p i e c e .

12 x 22 x ½ 6 i n . ; 30, 5 x 55, 9 x 16, 5 c m . P h o t o : C h r i s t o p h e r The B u r kEe a s © t o n F o u n d a t i o n / J A S P A R , T o k y o

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Maria Koch is at the helm of 032c Apparel, one of the most likely brand to invade your Instagram feed this autumn.

032c Apparel's bold red logo is gaining popularity: it was most recently modeled by DJ superstar Peggy Gou and

digital sensation @lilmiquela. Prior to her position, Koch was classically trained in fashion design. Her CV shows her

affinity for minimalism and practicality: she was a womenswear designer for Jil Sanders, Prada, Marios Schwab and

served as a special consultant for Yeezy. Since 2017, she has been developing 032c Apparel in partnership with her

husband Joerg, Founder and Editor-in-Chief of 032c and Mark Goering, 032c's Fashion Director. This year alone, the

brand premiered its menswear runway show at Pitti Uomo and dropped special items including shoelaces, scotch tape

and underwear at pop-up installations in Ginza, Ibiza, and Kreuzberg.

Maria KochInstagram032c Apparel032c Apparel

DJ Peggy Goudigital sensation@lilmiquela

Koch

Jil SandersPradaMarios SchwabYeezy

2017032cJoerg032cMark Goehring032c Apparel

Pitti UomoIbizaKreuzberg

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Image unavailable for web-publishing

due to copyright restrictions.