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Platform shoes. Miscelánea de Mordisco Issue 001

Esta miscelánea de la publicación Mordisco pretende hacer un estudio de cuatro eras de la construcción estética en la vestimenta: la era de la necesidad, la era de la distinción, la era del ready-to-wear, y la era de las trends. Mordisco ofrece esta plataforma para reflexionar acerca de la dolorosa ironía de construirse y llevar cierto tipo de prendas. Esta problemática es tratada a través del remixing de imágenes así como de textos, que cuestionan cómo hacer que un cuerpo recupere su alienación dentro de un sistema de sujetos-usuarios que los ha convertido en mercancías hiperrentables.

Esta miscelánea de la publicación Mordisco pretende hacer un estudio de cuatro eras de la construcción estética en la vestimenta: la era de la necesidad, la era de la distinción, la era del ready-to-wear, y la era de las trends.
Mordisco ofrece esta plataforma para reflexionar acerca de la dolorosa ironía de construirse y llevar cierto tipo de prendas. Esta problemática es tratada a través del remixing de imágenes así como de textos, que cuestionan cómo hacer que un cuerpo recupere su alienación dentro de un sistema de sujetos-usuarios que los ha convertido en mercancías hiperrentables.

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Platform shoes

Miscellaneous of Mordisco Issue 001

Like a bad dye job, the

truth is in the roots.



FASHION MATERIALITIES: BETWEEN VANITY AND DECAY.

Rotting, fermenting, dyeing, and distilling.

Fermentation is widely employed as a means of

rendering toxic food edible, or of preserving

perishable foods.

All these techniques involve decomposition -

decomposition to produce useful things like dye and

hemp or tasty things like shrimp paste and pickles.

But there is a formal symmetry between these

techniques and rotting in a less utilitarian context,

the secondary treatment of the dead. Both involve

the three stages of preparation, decomposition and

extraction.

After washing and dressing, the corpse is stored in

a sealed jar. All these processes of fermentation or

rotting produce a strong smell, often a nauseating

smell.

Making indigo dye is infamously stinky, and many

Westerners dislike the preserved for that we

mentioned because of their pungent scent.

Like a bad dye job, the truth is always in the roots.

Those fermentation and decomposition processes

make the hair dry, transforms it to a broom. The

reality behind dying is death in form of aesthetics

programation consume.

This miscellaneous attempts to study four eras and periods of time in

which fashion has evolved and still does: era of necessity, era of

distinction, era of ready-to-wear and the era of trend(s).

Mordisco magazine offers the idea of the painful irony of wearing and

displaying fashion trends. This subject is exposed by image remixing

that questions how to make any body part to buy back their own

alienation and pain from a consumer system that has made of them

wildly profitable commodities.


BAD MOODS, BAD LOOKS

My day started in the worst way possible: I had a flight, isn’t it a reason to be in a

bad mood? I did not have enough time for packing last few days so I am in a rush.

‘I will take the basics: black t-shirts, a few pants, sneakers… I have everything’, I

thought.

When I got to the plane I was squeezed into the middle seat between two footballplayer-sized

fellows who smelled of garlic and last night’s beer. That is not the

worst… We sat on the tarmac for five hours, I just took off my sneakers.

‘Keep your shoes on, please’, I heard from behind. The cold drinks were warm,

and the staff finally decided they couldn’t serve the food as it was not suitable to

eat. They wouldn’t let us off the plane or stand or go to the bathroom as we were

waiting for permission to take off — and the air conditioning didn’t work! The two

fellows on either side turned into a bath of sweat.

Once we already took off, I was completely sleepy. This warm weather is too much

for me, makes me fall asleep immediately. At least I am not going to be conscious

of those two jerks. I am glad I am sleeping, too much boobs would have been in

the way to ignore and concentrate on the sky.

Out of nowhere, the plane took a nose dive … for about five minutes! No,

seriously, count for five minutes. That’s a long nose dive! Passengers started

screaming, luggage went flying out of the overhead bins and the lights went out. It

was scary! I do not mean the nose dive —I love theme parks and those nice rides. I

mean the whole situation in the plane. I thought: am I already in hell?

Of course, the two jocks ended being two fags. You know what they say: they can

seem to be jerks, but at the end the fags get the girls! So imagine that for five

minutes, what a torture… A few minutes after the first scream came a loud

explosion like a car backfiring.

An ordinary Wednesday with no cosmological, apocalyptic or even philosophical

pretensions may be the date when you have a plane crash. Okay, don’t worry. This

happens a lot, so those attendants know what they are doing.

Anyway, everyone was panicking, they were asking out loud: are we going to

die?!? If you ask the wrong question, you will surely get the wrong answer. ‘No,

no, no, keep calm please’ replied the assistants.

Obviously we were all dead from the start of this flight; I always have bad luck

with that kind of things. If there is any chance that someone close to me might die,

they will surely die. If not, ask my first fish. I tried to feed them three times a day

such as humans do. What happened was something between a prawn overdose

and an explosion. It is practically the same today: a plane is blowing up and I am

overdosed by this sleazy smell of sweat.


How death will come is uncertain; that it will come is certain. Death has

no obligation to serve notice. The photograph for which you impatiently

posed turns out to be the last that was taken, and the smile an

incomplete triumph over irritation at being told to smile, the last to be

recorded.

The first priority when someone dies is to identify the body. Even in cases

of death at home, some form of identity label is required so that there

can be no doubt of the identity at any stage. In some cases, but not

always, jewelry is removed.

The day I died this process was not possible. I was chopped up in

multiple pieces, my head was just rolling in the depth of the ocean. I was

something like a barbecue exquisite corpse, but it was not exquisite at

all. ‘Whose body is it? I don’t recognize myself’.

Have you ever thought in the details of how you will die?

Maybe you have also thought in how you will look like on that day.

If you are a narcissistic desperate New York girl for sure you did.

Definitely to be chopped up and destroyed is not a good way of dying,

and the clothes I was wearing were not by far my best garment. I should

have thought that the outfit I was wearing could be the outfit which

would represent my corpse the rest of the eternity. It would have been

more interesting to be kidnapped, tied or something. Come on, I am

young. This is not fair. Can I have a last desire? PLEASE!

My last desire would be become a vampire. That is the way I can cheat

death, right? At least I could live a bit more and still be dead. The only

thing I need is: just tell me, where the fuck can I get bitten?

I do need to eat




ERA OF NECESSITY: BEAR HIDES

Out of the blue, I found myself between two goth Lolita girls in a horror film

festival. The films were good, but I don’t know if I preferred to be between two

jocks smelly guys or between this two nobody—expects—me—anywhere—so—I—

wear—black—to—-express—-my—anxiety. I asked one of them why goths wear

black, so she answered: ‘It just makes people think. They see me in black, they

see the fangs, they see the contact lenses [. . .]. They say you can’t fight the

system or buck the system. Well yeah, you can, but in your own way, and you do

it in such a way that people don’t realize that you’re actually being a little

revolutionary in your own way. Fashion trends, fine you can keep them. Because

that is not me. I am always in black. It’s a strong colour, people look at it as a

very negative colour, but it isn’t, black will stop negativity. Anything light or bright

will attract negativity ’cause it is bright. It is a welcoming colour, . . . [but] Black

keeps people at a distance, it gives people the image of you know, ‘don’t

approach me, back off, leave me alone’.

I replied as the person most interested in her around the world. I just wanted that

film festival to end; what do I do here? The Craft was not even a good film at all,

but after a few more films and a long list of compliments, the two experienced—in

—not—fitting—in—Lolitas took me to a bar. O-M-G, the Bat-Bar, what a wise

name….. really!?

It was not really difficult to become a vampire. You can always find one waiting

for you in the toilet, thirsty of blood and other fluids. The only thing you need to

ask is if if they can penetrate you raw, be not too passionate and try to make is as

short as possible. And… tadá! After a few hours you become a vampire.

Wow. I am a vampire already. How did I realize about that? Well, everybody

knows vampires don’t cast in mirrors, then you have it, after being penetrated in

that toilet and wasting a few hours in design drugs, I could not see my funny face

on the mirror.

I should think now what I am going to wear the rest of the eternity —I am not going to

have any other worry. For the first time in my life I can care of my look…

The — only? — outcome is that I can’t see myself in the mirror, but I can always wear a

mask. Can vampires wear masks? I guess so, I am dead but my death is not as the

others. I am a fucking fanged vampire. I am no spectral-boo-ghoul, so I can wear almost

anything I want, right? But… I have no idea what I should wear, is this new job kind of

formal? The Lolita twins just gave me a bad quality silk cloak, I look stupid. I thought

vampires were rich! Damn.

Being a vampire is something serious, I can’t look like any other basic human in

carnival.Do I need to wear the same dirty cloak every night? Come on, there must be

something for me. Any YSL Smocking jacket or Givenchy tuxedo.


I want to make clearer something: I don’t want to wear a Halloween vampire costume.

The costume acts as a record of my vampiric transition as other. I don’t want any S

which alienates me as a superhero brand. As a freak, I could be stigmatized in this

way, but by taking control of this otherness through garments,I might assert pride of my

difference. No more spandex patriotic prostitutes as captain America or a jock-jerk

Superman, please.

I started looking in fashion coverages and in the end of the day I found myself

suggesting that a brightly colored outfit might achieve the desired result. I learnt some

fashion Do I also include a dye in my hair and a purple mohawk maybe? This is the

thing I am going to wear the rest of the eternity: needs to be outrageous.

For making a decision and carrying my bags I hired a shop assistant. Igor. A toohandsome-to-be-human

Hungarian guy. Of course he is not human! I won him in an eBay

auction, and I spent almost all I had (getting used to this Internet fashion world).

Everyone seem to be interested in having a slave nowadays.

Well, I am not interested in him. He is just some support I need at the beginning of my

new career. He reminded me to not forget that clothes are not only symbols of status,

but also create power. Oh, right, I almost forgot that he dresses up always in latex.

Clothes, my new kinky manager argues ‘literally are authority’. It lends validity to my

actions, whatever I am going to do. You don't need to be really clever: spend all the

money I can and my Mastercard stands.

The simple act of dressing makes an individual acutely aware of the ‘presentation of the

self’, giving him a heightened awareness of the methods by which we create and

recreate selves [through] the act of (re)clothing and the impact we produce in the other

people.

Fashion is, after all, a frivolous pursuit —a sign of ostentatious consumption— and to

imply that me, a vampire and his slave, are slaves to fashion would imply that he or she

is not fully committed to other values. It’s clear: as a sex-starving personality, I am not

committed to nobody.

Though as an outsider to the fashion world I may have difficulties identifying the latest

fashions, fashionistas ‘can tell at a glance’ whether someone ‘is wearing this year’s

dress’. Each year, dresses are sufficiently different from those of last year so as to be

unmistakably recognizable by the initiated as being of the latest mode.

The fashion cycle is characterized by continuity. It is a continuous process without

destination. Fashion does not evolve in the direction of an anticipated finale. It will

continue to evolve indefinitely as my fabulous corpse.

It does not progress towards an end point; he expects to live forever. Even when a

person dies, he is resurrected, just as fashion items are resurrected after they have

apparently become outdated. Like the vampire, fashions ultimately never die. Old

elements are revived and decontextualized and thereby given new life.

In order to reflect changing values, the new costumes must be distanced from what has

come before. They may be made of new materials, or incorporate subtle shifts in color

or texture. But not in animal prints, please. They are too 2000. They are outdated, no

more zebra prints, please.




ERA OF DISTINCTION: BUSTLES. FROM VICTIM TO TERRORISM.

The vampires acknowledges the power that clothes have in expressing identity, and so

embraces the idea that he can be judged according to his wardrobe. The act of dress

in identity construction is acknowledgment of objectification. 'Well, it is not like I want

their blood: I just want to sneak in their wardrobes and get their most precious clothes.

I can’t stand seeing that bitch wearing a better Gucci than mine'.

Two more minutes and the Sample Sale market will be open. Sample sales are ripe for

drama. The stakes are high; people are sweating and taking their clothes off; money is

flying everywhere. Sale 50% off in Marc Jacobs, Valentino and 70% off in Dior.

Everything a girl dreams about every night! As always, in the first line. Prepared and

not overdressed. I came with Igor so he can help me carrying the bags.

Four, three, two, one…Unleash the Kraken!

Once inside, this short woman from Second Avenue literally pushed me and ripped a

sable chubby out of my hand like a starving person at a buffet. I was about to knock

her back when I saw the crazed look in her eyes—like a charging hyena. She did not

know I was a vampire and I could just kill her at the back of the shop and get the

labels for free. You know, labels or love! I prefer the labels. I dove in and snatched it

up. She was ready to slug me and said she saw it first, but I stood my ground. Plus I

was wearing heels and towered over her. One has to protect their territory. But that’s

how I knew it was good: she got crazy over it. After all, if I try something on at a

sample sale and women aren’t running to find the same thing or are trailing me, I

know it’s not great.The price reduction is a drug and if they can’t get their fix they go

on a rampage, pulling each other’s hair and throwing right hooks, all for a beaded

top.

No emotional baggage, just big bags filled with Dior. Life’s like a runway, so what’s

all the fussing for. Shoulders pads, Kashmir gloves —need them because it’s winter and

I have hands, obviously—.

The beauty of this kind of terrorism —if you are a shop-terrorist— is that you can

succeed even by failing, you can always hit people. çIgor and me, we perform a

platform shoe routine. So even though he failed to kill a single person in sales sample,

you can always see from the heights. That makes already a distinction.

Let’s remember that you are treated as a terrorist in the airports if you wear platform

shoes. Wearing platforms shoes makes you become a suicide bomber. And you should

buy a life insurance.

One contributing factor is that people stopped flying on platforms and drove in

sneakers instead. Platform and bustles terrorists —like Marie Antoinette— always think

where to step before stepping, no one wants to get an ankle broken. The simple fact of

wearing platform shoes makes a difference in the height and you become a walkingbomb

The state of current medical practice is so bad right now that there’s not very much

worth protecting about the old ways of doing things. Nobody in medicine wants to

admit this but it’s the truth: it is better to die than to go to a hospital in which you are

going to die anyway.

So why suicide bombers should buy life insurance? Because it is not a good time for

being born, we could die at any moment.


We, fashion victims, allow a set of ridiculous in ourselves, yet compelling, rules to govern our

wardrobes, our purchases, our desires, even our own sense of self-worth. It’s these

unquestioned tenets that have helped bring us to the sorry state we find ourselves in today.

That’s why you shall pay more to appear poor, believe submissively in the fashion label’s

reach, care about Paris Hilton’s Gaultier micro-mini and want without seeing.

Everything we want itself has an identity, and aspects are transferred to the wearer’s identity

when he dons the costume. You are what you wear, so each of us is sucked into sillines’ and

immediately identified as extraordinary by their best costumes. These costumes are, in contrast

to most of civilian clothing, colorful, bold, figure-hugging, and often seemingly impractical. It is

evidence that they have been ‘sucked into silliness’. But also never successfully translate to

reality: the best garments are always too painful and not comfortable to wear.

The extraordinary look and nature of the vampire on platforms [is] contrasted with the

ordinariness the people who surrounds him. Legitimating one’s identity in the eyes of others is

always a driving force of human behavior, and it seems this is also true superheroes.

Anything less than extraordinary action would seem out-of-character for him. Dressing up,

dressing down becomes a spectacle of otherness a committed difference to the ordinariness of

the other civilians.

Vampires exist out of time. They do not belong to any particular era. In any one incarnation,

they may be grounded in a particular temporal setting, but the vampire himself is ageless and

timeless. Costumes and garments, conversely, tend to be relatively unaffected by the passage

of time. It Is static, and preserves memories of the time at which it was first introduced. It is the

nature of the fashion cycle that styles fall in and out of favor. That is an act of evolution into

eternity, although evolution is painful and expensive. and more for a vampire: To be

fashionable is to begin the inevitable descent towards becoming unfashionable. When a

character must be ahistorical, and his costume must be at least largely consistent from one

incarnation to the next, it would be dangerous to incorporate elements for contemporary

fashion. Timelessness is achieved through consistency, as superheroes tend to adopt a fixed

costume that evolves slowly and minutely if at all.

We tend to dress more comfortably when lounging alone (we know we don’t need to impress

our cats and goldfish) and put up with uncomfortable clothing more often when we dress to

impress -stiff collars for a black-tie event, four-inch

stilettos for a birthday party, control-top panty hose for an

important conference. As much as we want to stand out

from a crowd, we also tolerate pain to fit in. It’s human

nature to follow the herd. Even the most painful and

seemingly grotesque practices can become fashionable if

they are adopted by the right people early on. One must

suffer to be beautiful.

Surprise surprise: The demise of the great dance Isadora

Duncan and consummate Fashion victim was a freak

accident for sure, but It brings up an interesting point

about our fixation on dress: Had Isadora not put style first,

would she have lived to see another day?




ERA OF READY-TO-WEAR : DESPERATION

Most of us would be insulted if someone called us ‘trendy’, as if the label implies a sort

of flakiness and weak-mindedness. In fact, we consider people who are overly trendy to

be out of their minds .I have them in my wardrobe, but I don’t know when I am going to

wear them. Obviously ‘I bought them and wore once, but I am not necessarily attached

to whom I was anymore’.

I have been a miniskirt mania, the craze in shoes, armbands are all the rage, military

madness… Fashion’s perpetual reinvention of itself is an essential part of what makes me

love it (and hate it). Trends make dressing fun (and frustrating).

I have a party tonight and I realize I don’t have anything to wear.

Our impatience with fashion trends is fueled by our ever-shortening attention spans.

Today, the pace of life itself is fast. Buying gas with a credit card is too time consuming

(now we can pay with the wave of a jazzed-up keychain at the pump). With everything

arounds us moving so quickly, it’s clear that change in fashion could not continue at a

snail’s pace. Fashion may have sped up, but so has nearly everything else around us.

No matter how much pleasure we find in shopping for clothes, there is always an

underlying frustration that we can’t keep up —a steady, low-level feeling of failure from

not being able to stay abreast of the rise and fall of trends.

I stood in from of her overflowing closet and screams: I HAVE NOTHING TO WEAR!

Because whatever I have is never enough. I want more, more.

I suffer innumerable Bad Clothes Days when nothing seems to look right, even though

the same clothes looked fine just a week ago. Even worse, anxiety that you will never

measure up to some indefinable level of good taste has little to do with much you

actually own or don’t own —some of the people with the largest wardrobes are still

dissatisfied when they peer into their closets every morning.

At this moment I decided to kill my poodle and do some fur with it. Oh, I did not mention

it: it was not even my pet, it was Igor’s. Although I got it for free, the fucking corpse is

stinking in my wardrobe. But when my heart was set on wearing fur because it is vogue,

I rationalized my decision: ‘It’s legal’, ‘It’s your right to wear what you want’, ‘I eat

meat; so what’s the difference? I will use a lavender breeze and problem sorted’.

My speed-chic-addiction is the crack cocaine of my fashion lifestyle: cheap, fast and

addictive. The act of consumption provides a temporary high —a fashionable new

garment injects its wearer with a euphoric feeling of pride and self-confidence.

I stand taller, smile more, go home with Igor glowing with contentment.

The pleasure of dressing up comes partly in the pleasure of acting according to a

different set of rules. Consequently, dressing up may be seen as both liberating and

restricting.

Having a wardrobe is as equivalent to a uniform, signifying allegiance to a set of

professional ideals rather than aesthetic trends. I have an specific amount of clothing

and then I have to wear those almost everyday.

'This is not what I expected. I bought lots of clothing and I still want more’.


How odd that our taste in clothes changes so frequently while our preferences in other

areas remain constant. Our favored type of partner rarely wavers (if you like tall, dark

and handsome, it’s unlikely you will drool over Mr.Short and Pasty). So why are we so

flick when it comes to fashion? In order to figure it out, it’s important to understand its vital

component —the trend.

Everyone remembers leaving denim, on denim, on some more denim stupid trend or T-shirt

with dumb sayings —those should never be worn intentionally. But it wasn’t until recently

that garment gluttony became so universal among average people. The result? When we

are so swept up in following every trend, we never develop our own personal style. One

gets the feeling that the trendsetters of yesteryear, like Coco Chanel, Lady Diana and

Grace Jones, were fully aware of how to use clothes as an extension of their personalities.

‘Reinvention is Madonna’s look. Imitation is ours. I am a vampire, but I am not into

hardcore metal music. Madonna’s fan for ever. Sorry not sorry’.

Scrapping our own eccentricities in favor of fashion monotony can only lead us down as

dangerous path —a path where creativity suffers. When we fail to nourish our own

personal sense of style and instead, mechanically follow the current, we put ourselves in

danger of forgetting what makes fashion fun in the first place —experimentation and

originality.

All of that is nice, yeah. But well, let me know when your whole life goes up in smoke. In

terms of fashion, that means it’s time for a promotion. It is sad that I am so focused in

fashion that I forget about paying the bills, the rent and find something to eat. The blood is

so out now. I need to cook, I don’t have a personal buffet. But if I am in a rush, then I get

some caviar sandwich or ask for some pasta in the Italian restaurant is downstairs. Not

having sex makes me feel other kind of hunger.

I am glad I have something to blame for my self-absorption other than me. I blame

fashion! Still, my self-sacrifice leads me nowhere more frequently than it leads anywhere.

‘You will be happy when you have dropped a size, and repeats the message when you

are a size smaller. If the day comes when you can squeeze comfortably into her desired

size… Will you be content, look lovingly into the mirror, and never view yourself as

imperfect again? Not likely’. Instead, the yardstick will merely be adjusted and a new

standard set, forever unachievable in the long run. After all, a person whose goal it is to

waste way to a mere nub of a human being, all bones and skin and zero meat, can never

be guaranteed happiness. ‘You will start to skip breakfast to balance out the calories you

consumed the night before after eating a second chicken leg for dinner, or overexercising

with Igor to reduce fat.’

When suddenly your Mastercard does not work in a shop, when you are not able to make

money and then you buy clothes when they are already out, death as the trends must

come to an end. Its time has simply come.

The death of the poodle spent on this cheap fur I will never wear somehow doesn’t weigh

as heavily on my minds as $12 squandered on a passionfruit martini we order then spill all

over the floor (the humanity!!!!!).

THE end OF A TREND




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