virago f/w20 collection book

VIRAGO
F/W20

CREATIVE
PROCESS
4 / collection concept
6 / key pieces
7 / key elements
8 / experiments
10 / mockups & creative
styling
12 / external input
colours & materials / 16
key looks / 18
collection overview / 20
fall overview / 22
winter overview / 24
product groups / 28
material groups / 32
colour groups / 36
spec sheets / 44
COLLE
CTION

C O
N
back in the roman antique,
self-confident women were
considered masculine and thus
called “virago“, derived from
the latin word for “man“.
nowadays, however, womanhood
has changed. strong, confident
women are on the rise - without
forfeiting their femininity.
while some may still think of
these women in the old-fashioned
way, the “new virago“is defined
as a strong, brave, or warlike
woman; a woman who demonstrates
exemplary and heroic qualities
- rather than being labeled as
a mannish woman just because
they don‘t fit outdated gender
roles.
C
E P
this collection concentrates on this new picture of a virago.
4
she is a self-confident woman, not afraid to stand her ground
and open her mouth if she doesn‘t agree with something. she
loves to express her strong character through her appearance
- not caring about what others may think. she is an educated
urbanite in her 20s/30s, living in a big city but still in
close touch to nature. she is different - and certain to have
all eyes on her. she is an “urban amazone“.
T

5

a collection tailored to a tough character needs a strong
foundation. in this case, two key pieces were used as the
origin of the creative process:
- a suit jacket: although this particular jacket is a
womenswear piece, its oversized, wide fit and origin
clearly show masculine tendencies. Originally a classic
menswear piece, the suit jacket reflects the clichè of
male power and supremacy and is used in this collection
to play with (and disprove) the negative connotation of
the “virago“ woman as a “butch“ / mannish female.
- a skirt with utility details: in contrast to the rather
simple suit jacket, this piece stands for the extrovert
character of the “virago“ woman. overloaded with utility
details, the skirt has to be worn with confidence as it
attracts attention. in addition to this, the utility details
radiate strength and harshness and contradict with
classical female details.
both key pieces make a clean break with the past idea of
women‘s clothing through cut, details and choice of fabric
while still maintaining feminine tendencies.
6
KEY
PIECES

the key elements chosen to be concentratd on for the
creative process of this collection represent the strongest
details of each key piece.
for the skirt, these are quite obvious: the utility belt
with the distinct buckle closure as well as the utility
pockets. the zipper was also incorporated into the collection,
but not to the same extent as the other skirt
details.
moreover, the strong shoulder/sleeve silhouette which
can be seen on some collection pieces was derived from
the shoulder section of the suit jacket and developed
through the following experiments.
KEY
ELEMENTS
7

8

EXPERI
MENTS
after defining the key pieces as
fundament of the collection, experiments
were conducted to show
different ways of wearing the items
and create new shapes.
the outcomes were then used to develop
defining silhouettes for the
collection, as for example the broad,
dropped shoulder.
in addition to this, the diverse
application possibilities of the
utility belt became apparent during
the process. especially the neckline
solutions shown on the left stood
out and were directly translated to
several collection items.
9

MOCKUPS
CREATIVES
TYLING
apart from the inital experiments, most of the creative
process for this collection consisted of photoshop work.
the results of the experiments were used to create digital
mockups through cutting, distorting, multiplying,
and reassembling the photographs.
the creative styling further visualises the look as well
as the coherence of the created pieces. Moreover, it shows
the various combination possibilities. At this stage in
the design process, it became apparent that the overall
look of the thus far designed collection was quite strong
and needed some more feminine qualities.
10

11

12

EXTERNAL
as a placeholder for external influences and required
changes/ add-ons in the real collection design process,
eddie mulder‘s hippie-era jacket from 1968 was added to
the late creative process. it had to be included into the
collection to some extent.
the collection print is a derivation of the curved red
shape on the front and back of the jacket. for this, the
shape was fragmented, multiplied, reassembled and coloured
to fit the so far established collection look.
in addition to this, the back pockets and “eddie mulder“
lettering were integrated into some designs to further
reference the external input. as a special piece, the
statement sweatshirt is clearly dedicated to eddie mulder,
with a short explanation of his persona printed on
its back.
INPUT
prints
13

THE
COLLECTION

COLOURS
the colour pallette of the collection is derived from the previously presented
character inspo, especially the “urban amazon“-construct. earth
tones form the mostly non-seasonal basis with only slight alterations
for the seasonal beige tones. bright green and orange, which reflect the
neon lights of a big city, form the striking seasonal accents and vivify
the otherwise low-key colour range.
FALL
cotton/
polyester
wool
denim
waterrepellent
polyester
pleated
polyester
16

MATERIALS
the character inspiration also influenced the materials used: the majority
of fabrics is rather firm and sturdy with lots of denim and cotton/
polyester, mirroring the strong appearance of the “virago“-woman. nevertheless,
fabrics like satin and pleated fabric with their flowy and delicate
qualities also reflect the feminine side of the character.
wool
satin
WINTER
cotton/
polyester
brushed wool
waterrepellent
polyester
denim
17

18

KEY
L
O
O
K
S
the key looks are a
representation of the
whole collection,
compressed to 5 - 10
outfits. the aim is
to give the viewer a
good overview of what
the collection offers,
thus including
everything from outerwear
to t-shirt.
in this case, the key
looks also show the
stylistic range from
strong silhouettes to
rather flowy fabrics
and shapes.
19

MULDERMULDER
DERMULDERMULDERMUL
DERMULDERMULDERMU
LDER
MULDER
ULDERMULDERMUL
R MULDERMULDE
RMULDERMULDERMULD
MULDER
ERMULDERMULDERMULDERMU
MULDER
E M
20

R
MULDER
R
Mulder, E. (born 1943)
Record holding motorcycle racing legend “Fast Eddie Mulder”
has set track records on courses ranging from the deserts and
the dirt tracks of California and Mexico to the more than
14,000 feet-high Pikes Peak International Hill Climb in Colorado.
After retiring from racing in the 1970s his talent got him into
the entertainment business. His first stunt was jumping a
Triumph Police cruiser more than 125 feet between two aircraft
carriers for the filming of the Clint Eastwood movie, Magnum Force.
F/W20
COLLECTION
OVERVIEW
ERM
MULDERMULDERMULD
ERMULDERMULDERMULDERMULD
DER
MULD
MULDER MULDER
MULDER
ULDERMUL
MU
MULDER
MULDER
ER
MULDERMULDE
ERM
MULDERMULDERMULD
ERMULDERMULDERMULDERMULD
ER
DER
MULD
MULDER
MULDER MULDER
MULDERMULD
DERMULDERMULDERMULD
ULDERMULDERMULDE
MULDERMULDER MUL
LDERMULDER
MULDER
MULD
DERMULDER MU
EDDIE
ERMULDERMULDERMULDERMULDE
RMULDERMULDERMU
LDERMULDERMULDER
ER
MULDERMULD
DERMULDERMULDERMULD
21

top Top
classic shirt
Classic Shirt
print blouse
Print Blouse
Casual Skirt
t-shirt
T-Shirt
R
MULDER
jumpsuit
Jumpsuit
FALL
basic longsleeve
Basic Longsleeve
Basic Jumper
basic jumper
midi dress
Midi Dress
22

DERMULDERMULDERMUL
DERMULDERMULDERMU
statement sweatshirt
casual skirt
statement skirt
Casual Skirt Statement Skirt Print Skirt
R MULDERMULDE
RMULDERMULDERMULD
Statement Sweatshirt
Statement Jumper
print skirt
statement jumper
LDER
ULDERMULDERMUL
ERMULDERMULDERMULDERMU
tailored pants
Tailored Pants
casual Casual Pants pants
MULDER
MULDER
MULDER
shirt Shirt Dress dress
statement Statement Bomber bomber
blazer Blazer
E M
MULDERMULDER
print dress
Print Dress
trenchcoat
Trenchcoat
23

DERMULDERMULDERMULD
R
R
Mulder, E. (born 1943)
Record holding motorcycle racing legend “Fast Eddie Mulder”
has set track records on courses ranging from the deserts and
the dirt tracks of California and Mexico to the more than
14,000 feet-high Pikes Peak International Hill Climb in Colorado.
After retiring from racing in the 1970s his talent got him into
the entertainment business. His first stunt was jumping a
Triumph Police cruiser more than 125 feet between two aircraft
carriers for the filming of the Clint Eastwood movie, Magnum Force.
R
Down
Statement Pants
Statement Dress
DER
MULD
MULDER MULDER
Luxury Poloneck
Silk Dress
Statement Sweatshirt
ER
MULDER
MULDERMULD
DERMULDERMULDERMULD
ER
MULDER
MULDERMULD
DERMULDERMULDERMULD
ULDERMULDERMULDE
ERM
MULDERMULDERMULD
ULDERMUL
MU
MULDER
MULDER
ER
MULDERMULDE
ERM
MULDERMULDERMULD
Down Jacket
RMULDERMULDERMU
MULDER
ER
MULDERMULDE
ERM
MULDERMULDERMULD
Silk Dress
ERMULDERMULDERMULDERMULD
satin dress
DER
ER
MULD
MULDER MULDER
MULDER
MULDERMULD
MULDER
DERMULDERMULDERMULD
satin blouse
Silk Blouse
ER
DER
MULD
MULDER
MULDER MULDER
MULDERMULD
Statement Pants
statement pants
Statement Dress
Wool Coat
DERMULDERMULDERMULD
Luxury Poloneck
ULDERMULDERMULDE
ERM
MULDERMULDERMULD
ERMULDERMULDERMULDERMULD
RMULDERMULDERMU
ent Pants
satin Silk Dress skirt
easy Easy Blouse blouse
Down Jacket
DERMULDERMULDERMULD
statement dress
ULDERMULDERMULDE
RMULDERMULDERMU
luxury poloneck
Silk Dress
MULDERMULDER MUL
ER
EDDIE
MULDER
MULDERMULD
LDERMULDER
MULDER
MULD
DERMULDER MU
DERMULDERMULDERMULD
ERMULDERMULDERMULDERMULDE
LDERMULDERMULDER
Statement Dress
Statement Dress
Luxury Poloneck
statement
Statement Sweatshirt
sweatshirt
Statement Blouse
statement blouse
Silk Dress
Down Jacket
down jacket
ss
24
Wool Coat
wool coat
Statement Jacket
statement jacket

WINTER
25

P
R O
D U
C
T S
28

statement bomber blazer statement jacket down jacket
trench coat winter coat
ULDERMULDERMULDE
LDER
ULDERMULDERMUL
ER
MULDER
MULDERMULD
JACKETS COATS DRESSES
statement dress shirt dress midi dress satin dress print dress
29

SHIRTS
basic longsleeve t-shirt
top
KNITS
statement jumper basic jumper luxury poloneck
SWEATSHIRTS
R
MULDERMULDE
MULDERMULDER MUL
ACCESSORIES
print sweatshirt statement sweatshirt
handbag
30

LDERMULDER
MULDER
MULD
DERMULDER MU
R
DER
MULD
MULDER MULDER
ULDERMUL
MU
MULDER
ERM
MULDERMULDERMULD
casual skirt statement satin skirt
skirt
DERMULDERMULDERMUL
print skirt
tailored statement casual pants jumpsuit
pants
pants
SKIRTS PANTS TOPS
statement satin blouse print easy blouse classic
blouse blouse shirt
31

M A T
E
R
I A S L
32

COTTON/POLYESTER
MULD
LDERMULDER
MULDER
DERMULDER MU
LDER
ULDERMULDERMUL
ULDERMULDERMULDE
R
MULDERMULDE
MULDERMULDER MUL
DERMULDERMULDERMUL
33

DENIM
ULDERMUL
MU
MULDER
WATER-REPELLENT
POLYESTER
34

WOOL
R
DER
MULD
MULDER MULDER
SATIN
ERM
MULDERMULDERMULD
ER
MULDER
MULDERMULD
35

C O
L O
U R
S
36

MULDERMULDER MUL
blazer statement basic jumper handbag
sweatshirt
R
DER
MULD
MULDER MULDER
ER
MULDER
MULDERMULD
jumpsuit
print dress satin dress casual pants
down jacket statement jacket statement bomber
trenchcoat
KHAKI
37

R
MULDERMULDE
statement jumper print sweatshirt basic jumper basic longsleeve
DERMULDERMULDERMUL
print blouse
print skirt casual skirt
print dress
handbag
BEIGE
38

blazer blazer basic jumper easy blouse
ER
MULDER
MULDERMULD
satin dress midi dress tailored pants statement skirt
DARK GRAY
39

basic longsleeve luxury poloneck satin blouse
handbag
LDER
ULDERMULDERMUL
ULDERMULDERMULDE
shirt dress statement dress statement jacket statement bomber
BLACK
40

LDERMULDER
MULDER
MULD
DERMULDER MU
R
DER
MULD
MULDER MULDER
ERM
MULDERMULDERMULD
statement blouse satin blouse satin skirt handbag
ULDERMUL
MU
MULDER
winter coat
statement pants
„ SILVER LINING“
BEIGE GRAY
41

basic longsleeve classic shirt t-shirt top
midi dress statement skirt handbag
NEON
GREEN
42

ERM
MULDERMULDERMULD
luxury poloneck easy blouse satin skirt handbag
NEON
ORANGE
43

SPEC SHEET
style# #01fw2020 group statement
size range xs - xl season winter
sample size m fabric 100% cotton
date 2020-07-20 details utility straps, print
description
style statement sweatshirt
sweatshirt with wide fit, utility details and print
orange utility
straps with
buckles, sewn into
front part seams
a
MULDERMULDER
MUL
strap with “mulder“
print detail
c
20cm
strap detail
20cm
a
MULDERMULDER
66cm
wide sleeves
with buckle
closure
as cuff
b
drop-shoulder
g
d
ribbed hem
EDDIE
Mulder, E. (born 1943)
Record holding motorcycle racing legend “Fast Eddie Mulder”
has set track records on courses ranging from the deserts and
the dirt tracks of California and Mexico to the more than
14,000 feet-high Pikes Peak International Hill Climb in Colorado.
After retiring from racing in the 1970s his talent got him into
the entertainment business. His first stunt was jumping a
Triumph Police cruiser more than 125 feet between two aircraft
carriers for the filming of the Clint Eastwood movie, Magnum Force.
f
big back print,
orange
e
EDDIE
print detail
23cm
Mulder, E. (born 1943)
Record holding motorcycle racing legend “Fast Eddie Mulder”
has set track records on courses ranging from the deserts and
the dirt tracks of California and Mexico to the more than
14,000 feet-high Pikes Peak International Hill Climb in Colorado.
After retiring from racing in the 1970s his talent got him into
the entertainment business. His first stunt was jumping a
Triumph Police cruiser more than 125 feet between two aircraft
carriers for the filming of the Clint Eastwood movie, Magnum Force.
30cm
excessive fabric
gathered to fit
tight hem
main col.
accent
col.
pom measurements cm pom measurements cm
a neckline 36 e shoulder width 75
b waist 36(72) f length 42
c sleeve length 45 g armhole 28
d shoulder length 28
44

SPEC SHEET
style# #02fw2020 group statement
size range xs - xl season winter
sample size m fabric 100% denim
date 2020-07-20 details utility straps, buttons
description
style
statement pants
5-pocket, wide leg denim pants with utility details
closure detail
c
fake double closure
5 belt loops
strap sewn
into side
seam
e
a
strap with
“mulder“
print detail
d
b
orange
back
pockets
back pocket
12cm
ULDERMUL
MU
MULDER
MULDER
ER
MULDERMULDE
g
15cm
13cm
6cm
f
front pocket
7cm
10cm
3,5cm x 4cm
double hem
main col.
wide leg,
ankle length
accent
col.
h
pom measurements cm pom measurements cm
a front rise 35 e outseam 100
b back rise 43 f inseam 70
c waist 36(72) g thigh 28(56)
d hip 48(96) h leg opening 25(50)
45

haw ss20
design project
leonore culemann
F/W20
VIRAGO