Italia

Liz Hixon

Copyrighted Material
Italia
Copyright © 2020 Red Airplane Design LLC
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, used or transmitted in
any manner without prior written permission of the publisher, except for the inclusion of
brief quotations in a book review.
Editing by Renata Alexander
All photographs by Liz Hixon, except photo on page 4 (Pam Hudson)
Illustrations & book design by Liz Hixon
Printed by Lulu xPress in the United States of America
Published by Red Airplane Design LLC
https://redairplane.design
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Written, illustrated and photographed by Liz Hixon
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4Dedication

Dedicazione
Dedication
For my awesome uncle and aunt, Brian and Pam. Thanks for the amazing
trip to Italy. Glad I could be your “tour guide” even though I didn’t really do any
tour guiding outside of sniffing out all the delicious hole-in-the-wall kebab. Brian, thanks
for trusting me to get us safely back to port through the winding Venice streets – and for
tearing it up on the dance floor with me. Pam, thanks for ditching Brian with me to go
window shopping – and for convincing me to buy that pretty little black dress.
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6Day 1 | Milan

Duomo di Milano (Milan Duomo)

Milano
An enchanting city, Milan is renowned as the fashion
and design capital of the world. The romantic city is
home to alluring night life, gripping history, monumental
architecture and stunning art.
The historic home of Leonardo da Vinci, Milan is famed as
the city of his Last Supper. The Duomo cathedral, towering
impressively over the famous piazza, and the famed highend
shopping mall of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II draw
more than eight million visitors each year.
During World War II, Milan was the target of heavy bombing
between 1940 and 1945. An estimated 2,200 people lost
their lives, almost half a million were displaced and nearly
one third of the city’s buildings were destroyed. Bombers
focused heavily on the city center in an attempt to destroy
Milan’s cultural and artistic artifacts. Three-fourths of the
historic buildings, such as the Duomo and other churches –
including the one where the Last Supper is housed – the
Sforza Castle, La Scala and the Galleria, suffered damage to
8Day 1 | Milan
varying degrees. Italy was quick to commence reconstruction
efforts, but the devastating effects of war can still be
witnessed today.

Milan is a true metropolis: strong and fearless
but welcoming too. Little by little, I came to realize
that I could become someone here.”
—Giorgio Armani
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Arrival
Upon arriving in Milan and checking into our
hotel, located at the heart of the city, we
conducted our own mini tour of the city center.
Our meanderings led us past the Duomo and through the
Galleria. Though not the height of tourist season, there
were still clusters of people enjoying the beautiful weather
and impressionable architecture. We dined at a small
restaurant and experienced our first Italian meal of the
trip – fresh vegetables, warm pasta, perfectly cooked tender
meat; cuisine in Italy is truly unparalleled!
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Day 2 | Milan
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Castello Sforzesco (Sforza Castle)
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Exploring Milan
Our first full day in Milan began with a tour
of the magnificent Duomo cathedral in the
city center of Milan. It is quite fitting that the Duomo
served as the foundation for our trip as it also serves as the
cornerstone around which the city is built. In many a sense,
the phrase “all roads lead to the Duomo” would not at all
be an understatement. Quite literally, the map of Milan
resembles a multi-spoked wheel with the Duomo resting at
the hub. A visitor cannot be lost long in the meandering
Day 2 | Milan
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streets of Milan before catching a glimpse of the cathedral’s
magnificent spires.
The largest church in Italy (keep in mind that Saint Peter’s
is located in Vatican City), Milan’s Duomo is an impressive
sight to behold, both inside and out. Built across a span

of nearly six centuries, the magnificent façade was not
completed until the early 1960s.
After observing the ornate exterior, we entered the
Duomo to marvel at the modern wonder of the
impressive Gothic architecture and the gemstone colors
of the towering stained-glass windows. Throughout
the interior, we acknowledged the impressive artistic
works contained therein, most notably Saint Bartholomew
Skinned by sculptor Marco d’Agrate. The statue portrays
Bartholomew draped in his own skin, each of his
muscles and veins rendered in perfect anatomical detail.
While visually depicting the manner of the martyr’s
torture, the figure is also a brilliant exercise in human
anatomy and is significantly representative of the
Renaissance period, during which the study of anatomy,
for both medical and artistic purposes, flourished.
tiled floor displays the Turin coat of Arms, to deftly
stomp on the testicles of the mosaic bull – a sure way
to summon good luck!
We stopped into the Savini, a lovely café situated at the
end of one wing of the Galleria. The friendly wait staff
served us a deliciously appetizing platter of biscotti
alongside our orders of cappuccino and espresso.
The great hall of the Galleria connects the Piazza del
Duomo to the Piazza della Scala, where we exited to see
the Statua di Leonardo da Vinci, a larger-than-life sculpture
celebrating the famed artist and inventor who spent
much of his early life in the city of Milan. We crossed
the square and came to face the Teatro alla Scala, Milan’s
renowned opera house, built in the late 1700s and
inaugurated in the year 1778. Designed by architect
Giuseppe Piermarini, the Teatro alla Scala is the most
significant work by which he is remembered.
Between us and the theatre stretched the Via Santa
Margherita, a portion of the route for the Mille Miglia, a
world-renowned motorsport tour featuring more than
four hundred classic European automobiles. This happened
to be the day the vehicles were passing through
the city of Milan on the last leg of the tour, which
stretches from Brescia to Rome and back. Our group
and hundreds of other tourists and locals lined the sidewalks,
snapping photos as each shiny vehicle rolled past.
Exiting the magnificent church, we crossed the Piazza
del Duomo and entered the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II,
the oldest shopping mall in the world, famed for its
luxurious designer brands. The large archways of the
Galleria funnel millions of visitors each year into the
haute couture shops of luxury retailers such as Prada,
Armani, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Swarovski and more.
Many visitors also flock to the Galleria for a fine dining
experience at one of the many upscale restaurants
located beneath its grandiose glass arches.
On this day, thousands of visitors milled about, many
stopping near the mall’s center, where the intricately
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Day 2 | Milan
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Mille Miglia
In the early 1900s, the Mille Miglia was an open-road endurance
auto race that attracted an estimated five million
spectators from across Italy and the world. The race took place
twenty-four times between the years of 1927 and 1957 with a break
during World War II. Many luxury car brands of today including
Maserati, Porsche, Alfa Romeo, BMW and Ferrari owe their fame to
the famous race.
The first Mille Miglia, which translates to “one thousand miles,” included
seventy-seven Italian vehicles, fifty-one of which reached the finish line.
During the years of the race, Italian autos strongly dominated. Rarely
did foreign manufacturers’ cars roll across the finish line in first place.
The rigid competition brought about amazing innovations in the world
of automotive manufacturing. However, as newer cars became faster
and more powerful, the race became increasingly dangerous. In 1957, a
Ferrari fatally crashed, killing two drivers and ten spectators and bringing
about the halting of the race for good.
The year 1977 saw the rebirth of the race as a commemorative event.
Since then, it is an annual ritual that celebrates the nostalgic history of
European automobiles.
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After watching the procession for a bit, we proceeded to
the Sforza Castle, originally built in the fifteenth century by
Francesco Sforza, Duke of Milan. During the sixteenth and
seventeenth centuries, it served as one of the largest citadels
across all of Europe. It was largely rebuilt by Milanese
architect Luca Beltrami, known for his architectural restoration
work. Today, the castle houses historical and artistic
collections, most notably Michelangelo’s Rondanini Pietà, his
final work of sculpture, left unfinished at his death.
Our next stop was the church, Santa Maria delle Grazie, which
houses the world-famous Last Supper by Leonardo da Vinci.
Over the years, the painting has deteriorated significantly
and has undergone numerous restoration efforts. At the
time when Leonardo painted the scene, he had no experience
with murals and the fresco method commonly used
at the time. Whereas frescoes were made by mixing dye
directly into the wet plaster, Leonardo created this painting
by applying pigments over the dry plaster. Unlike frescoes
that exist from the same time period and exhibit strikingly
vivid colors, the Last Supper has not fared so well.
In an attempt to preserve the masterpiece, today,
the room is temperature controlled, flash photography
is forbidden and the number of visitors who enter the room
– and the amount of time they can gaze upon
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the work – is strictly limited.
After concluding our sweeping tour of the major sights in
Milan, we made the decision to venture out and mount the
rooftop of the magnificent Duomo. We went halfway up

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via the elevators, then took to the stairs for the remainder.
Nearing the top, the view of Milan became more and more
comprehensive, bringing new life to the phrase, “you could
see for miles.”
The rooftop afforded a panoramic view of the entire city,
a splendid spectacle to behold. Red terracotta roofs dotted
the landscape for miles on end. In the distance, the metropolitan
sector boasted glass-encased skyscrapers that chased
each other into the clouds. Through the haze of cloud
cover, we could just begin to make out the blurry shapes
of the distant Italian Alps.
We were also allowed a closer inspection of the elegant
ornamentation and detailed masonry of the structure. A
grandiose 3,400 statues – in addition to 135 gargoyles and
700 figures carved in relief – adorn the exterior of the
Gothic-style cathedral. Even as we climbed to the rooftop, it
was nearly impossible to comprehend the sheer magnitude
of the church and the detail that was afforded by the adept
craftsmen privileged enough to lend their skills to
the distinguished landmark.
Descending the monument, we made our way to the
hotel, ready for rest yet anticipating the remainder of the
trip, having just whet our appetites for the amazing sights,
Day 2 | Milan
sounds, smells and tastes of Italy.
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At last, a forest of graceful needles, shimmering in the amber sunlight, rose slowly above the
pygmy housetops, as one sometimes sees, in the far horizon, a gilded and pinnacled mass of cloud
lift itself above the waste of waves, at sea, – the Cathedral! We knew it in a moment.
Half of that night, and all of the next day, this architectural autocrat was our sole object of interest.
What a wonder it is! So grand, so solemn, so vast! And yet so delicate, so airy, so graceful! A very
world of solid weight, and yet it seems in the soft moonlight only a fairy delusion of frost-work
that might vanish with a breath! How sharply its pinnacled angles and its wilderness of spires
were cut against the sky, and how richly their shadows fell upon its snowy roof! It was a
vision! – a miracle! – an anthem sung in stone, a poem wrought in marble!
Howsoever you look at the great cathedral, it is noble, it is beautiful! Wherever you stand in Milan
or within seven miles of Milan, it is visible and when it is visible, no other object can chain your
whole attention. Leave your eyes unfettered by your will but a single instant and they will surely
turn to seek it. It is the first thing you look for when you rise in the morning, and the last your
lingering gaze rests upon at night. Surely it must be the princeliest creation that ever brain
of man conceived.”
—Mark Twain, The Innocents Abroad
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Day 3 | Verona, Valpolicella
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Verona
Located along the Adige River, Verona is
known as the setting for Shakespeare’s Romeo and
Juliet, making the city a major destination for tourists, especially
romantics. Verona is also home to a large amphitheatre,
which resembles the Colosseum in Rome. However,
unlike the Colosseum, Verona’s arena is largely intact and
is, in fact, still used for grandiose shows and opera performances
which are well attended by theater lovers from
Day 3 | Verona, Valpolicella
around the world. The city boasts a rich cultural history,
as told especially by the architecture, as ancient Roman
structures live harmoniously alongside edifices constructed
in the Middle Ages.
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Romeo and Juliet
While William Shakespeare’s famous
tragedy, Romeo and Juliet, is indeed fictional,
the characters and setting of the story are
largely true to life. While there is some debate among
scholars, the Montague and Capulet families are believed
to have been prominent political families in Verona, recognized
for constant squabbling. The Montecchi and Capuleti
families were also mentioned by Dante in his Divine Comedy.
Interestingly, while most scholars agree that Shakespeare
likely never visited Verona and may never have been to
Italy at all, Verona is the setting for not just one, but two,
of his plays. The home formerly inhabited by the Capulet
family has gained fame as Juliet’s house, with the 2010 film
Letters to Juliet only adding momentum to the legend.
So, while the story surrounding Juliet’s house is merely
fictitious, Shakespeare’s drama is so shrouded in legend
that each year, millions make the pilgrimage to Verona to
celebrate love. Passageways leading to the courtyard are
covered in scribbled graffiti of initials, hearts and wishes.
Visitors crowd the statue of Juliet in the courtyard, touching
her right breast for good fortune in love. Guests can also
enter the house to stand on the legendary balcony, mimicking
the famed scene as they call out to loved ones below.
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City of Legend
We awoke the following morning and
boarded the bus bound for Venice by way
of Verona and Valpolicella. Upon reaching the outskirts
of historic Verona, we disembarked and crossed
the Ponte della Vittoria (Victory Bridge) on foot, leading us
into the heart of the ancient town.
Our first stop was to admire the Porta Borsari, a Roman
Day 3 | Verona, Valpolicella
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gate that dates back to the 1st century AD. Historically, its
grand arches marked the main entrance to the city and was
therefore lavishly decorated.
Continuing our trek, we paid a brief visit to the massive
Verona Arena, an ancient Roman amphitheatre, built
around the year AD 30 and still in use today as an

internationally prominent venue for large opera performances.
On this particular morning, the square in
front of the structure was occupied by a mass of people
assembled for the Verona marathon. Due to the crowds,
we didn’t marvel long at the ancient wonder, but continued
on after snapping a few photos.
We proceeded toward the Piazza dei Signori, the main
city center of historic Verona. We slowly made our way
through the increasingly crowded streets toward the
legendary home of Shakespeare’s Juliet.
Large crowds were gathered in the passageways leading
toward the bronze statue of Juliet. Many stood in line to
enter the house so they could climb to the balcony and
reenact the famous balcony scene with loved ones below.
After taking our photos and gazing at the legendary
scene, we pushed ourselves back out to the main streets
to escape the throngs.
The remainder of our morning was spent exploring
the nooks and crannies of Verona’s city center.
Naturally, we found a quaint gelato shop and savored
our sweet frozen treats as we wandered, shopped and
took photographs of the historical architecture.
ROMEO: Is love a tender thing? It is too
rough, too rude, too boisterous, and it pricks
like thorn.
MERCUTIO: If love be rough with you, be
rough with love. Prick love for pricking, and
you beat love down.
―William Shakespeare, Romeo and Juliet
to her home, and the courtyard beneath the famous
balcony was a solid mass of tourists, pressing their way
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Valpolicella
Ah, the verdant vineyards! Stretching out for miles on
end, rows upon rows of lush grapevines adorn the
countryside hills. The Valpolicella region is esteemed for its
red wine production. Historically, the wine produced in the
area was referred to as recioto, a flavorful dessert wine made
from grapes that have been specially dried to concentrate
the sugars. The rich dry wine Amarone is another variety
produced in the region. Amarone, which translates to “the
Day 3 | Verona, Valpolicella
great bitter,” was so named to distinguish it from the sweet
recioto. In the wine-making process, these two wines are
quite similar, the primary difference being that grapes used
for Amarone are allowed a longer fermentation period.
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Wine & Dine
Departing from Verona, we traveled to
Valpolicella for a fine dining experience at
the Serego Alighieri vineyard. Stepping out of the
coach, we were transported to a fairytale scene. Organized
rows of grapevines rolled away from us in every direction.
Perfectly kempt pathways lined with foliage summoned us
toward the winery. We dined on a three-course meal, each
section exquisitely paired with a delectable house wine.
Day 3 | Verona, Valpolicella
After a delicious and filling meal and a guided tour of the
winery, we resumed our seats on the bus for the remainder
of our journey to Venice.
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Day 4 | Venice
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Basilica San Marco (Saint Mark’s Basilica)

Venezia Venice
Venice was built around 400 AD as coastal inhabitants
sought refuge from mainland barbarian
invaders. The magical floating city that now consists
of 118 tiny islands separated by a lattice of canals and
bridges began as refugees flocked to the swampy islands.
Canals were dug, wooden posts were pounded deep
into the marshy soil and foundations were built. Thus,
Venice was formed.
The Venetian Republic was born in 697, founded as a
safe haven for refugees escaping mainland persecution.
A coastal trade hub inhabited by immigrants, Venice
boasted a spectacular diversity of culture. While flaunting
the traditional earmarks of the Italian Gothic style,
Venetian art and architecture clearly exhibit Byzantine,
Moorish and Muslim influences.
The Republic, ruled by the Doge and a parliament,
prospered for hundreds of years up until the early seventeenth
century when various conflicts began to arise
among religious entities and other empires. Turmoil
Though the final years of the Republic were turbulent,
Venice’s legacy is one of glory, having boasted a model
system of government and an enduring heritage of art,
music, architecture and culture. After the Napoleonic
Wars, Venice was declared a part of Austria until 1866
when it was transferred to the Kingdom of Italy.
Historically, Venice was praised for its intricate glasswork,
a tradition that continues as modern shoppers
enjoy an array of locally made glassware and tours of
glass factories. Sadly, the enchanting city is facing many
challenges including sinking, due to rising tides and its
marshy foundation; progressive damage caused by enormous
ocean liner cruise ships and economic difficulties.
Despite adversity, Venice continues to transport tourists
to an earlier time in history. Unlike most European cities,
the Venetian islands resist the contemporary touch
of modernization. Free of any motored vehicles, visitors
maneuver about the city on foot. Handsome gondoliers
serenade their passengers through the city’s mysterious
Day 4 | Venice
reigned for much of the seventeenth and eighteenth
centuries until, in 1797, French troops under Napoleon
occupied the province, forcing the Doge to surrender
watery passages. One could easily argue that a more
romantic city does not exist.
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and ending the Republic.

To build a city where it is impossible to build a city is
madness in itself, but to build there one of the most elegant
and grandest of cities is the madness of genius.”
―Alexander Herzen
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A Thousand Bridges
Upon arriving in Venice, we were warmly
welcomed aboard the River Countess, the
out various political dramas that took place within
the walls of the palace.
many prisoners had considered their last. Entering the
New Prisons, we noted that the cells were more spacious,
small river cruise ship that would serve as our
floating hotel for the following week. After settling
in, the ship departed from the main port and made
its way to the southeastern side of the fish-shaped city
where we docked for the night.
After touring the chambers of the Doge’s Palace, we
were led into the old dungeon, located on the eastern
side of the palace. Eighteen cells were referred to as
the Pozzi or “wells” which had offered unspeakable conditions.
Located above the Pozzi were the Piombi, which
though naturally far from luxurious.
Completing our tour of the Doge’s Palace, Susan led us
back to the ship by way of the meandering city streets,
allowing us ample time to stop and admire the exquisite
sights Venice affords.
The following morning, we disembarked, led by our
were primarily reserved for upper-class hostages.
gracious guide for the day, Susan Steer, a remarkable
art historian. Susan led us adeptly through the
twisting alleys and across the numerous bridges that
crisscross the abundant winding canals that separate
the patchwork of tiny islands. She guided us to the
Piazza San Marco and into the grandiose Doge’s Palace.
The elaborate architecture boasted ceilings graced
by opulent gilded gold, magnificent figures carved in
relief, walls wrapped with rich paintings and colorful
marble-adorned doorways and columns.
Susan was a remarkable storyteller, bringing to life
the colorful – and somewhat fiery – history of the
magnificent palace. She led us into the past, drawing
our imaginations into the ancient stories. She spoke of
Titian, the renowned Venetian painter, and she played
Susan skillfully narrated the colorful story of Giacomo
Casanova, famed for his fantastical escape from the
Piombi, which he accomplished by engaging the aid of
fellow prisoner, Father Balbi.
Located across the canal from the Doge’s Palace, the
New Prisons were built in the late 1500s as an attempt
to improve conditions for inmates. In 1600, the New
Prisons were linked to the palace by the famous Ponte
dei Sospiri or “Bridge of Sighs,” so named as prisoners,
being led across the bridge to their confinement, would
sigh upon beholding their final glimpse of Venice
through the two small windows whose thick limestone
panes stamped a heavy floral latice over the city. As we
crossed the memorable bridge, we paused to peer out
the slatted windows at the same view of Venice that
A realist, in Venice, would become a romantic
by mere faithfulness to what he saw before him.”
―Arthur Symons
After a tasty lunch in the ship’s lovely dining room, we
set sail aboard the River Countess for a scenic cruise
around the islands of Venice. Most passengers climbed
to the rooftop sun deck, enjoying cocktails as the picturesque
shorelines of quaint Murano and colorful Burano
floated past.
We drifted by the small enclosed island of San Michele,
which has served as the Venetian burial grounds for
centuries, ever since burial on the primary Venetian
islands was outlawed as unsanitary during French occupation.
In years past, bodies were carried from Venice
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Day 4 | Venice
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to San Michele in a procession of funerary gondolas.
As we sailed on, one particularly notable sight was
colored water creating gentle laughing waves as the
Today, the island is still employed as a cemetery for
the leaning bell tower on the playfully colorful island
pleasant breeze and other seafaring vessels passed over
Venetian residents.
of Burano. Belonging to Saint Martin’s church, the
it. Inhabitants and tourists alike smiled and waved from
Murano, historically known for glassmaking, was
the next island we drifted past. Late in the thirteenth
century, the Venetian Republic declared glassmaking a
fire hazard, fearful of the potential devastation it could
cause on the main islands. Glass makers were relocated
to the outlying island of Murano. Until the late sixteenth
century, Murano’s glassmaking techniques were
refined far beyond any other manufacturers. Today,
Murano artisans still fabricate beautiful glasswork and
tower, built in the 1600s, began to lean in 1774 when
it was heightened by ten meters to satisfy new architectural
tastes. The architect had failed to consider
the impact that the additional weight would have upon
a foundation of mud. In the late 1900s, the lean of the
tower was accelerated, alarming nearby residents and
requiring preventative measures be put in place to avert
disaster. Though permanently anchored now, the tower
retains it’s cockeyed angle.
the shorelines of the various islands as they spotted our
ship passing gracefully by.
Following a hearty dinner on board, we set out again –
this time by water taxi – toward the Piazza San Marco
for a private after-hours tour of the magnificent basilica.
The view of San Marco from the Piazza is incredible,
a spectacle of artistry and engineering. Yet as the
gleaming domes tower toward the skies and the fading
evening sunlight reflects off glistening golden mosaics
the colorful shop displays pull window shoppers in with
their inviting vivid hues.
The return voyage to our docking station at the main
Venetian islands was a peaceful trip, the cerulean
that adorn the façade, the exterior splendor cannot
compare to that of the inside.
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Susan, our guide and narrator, brought to life the biblical
account in the gleaming mosaics that adorn the ceilings.
Behind the altar, we viewed the bejeweled Pala d’Oro, an
ostentatious Byzantine masterpiece, wrought in gold and
enameled with precious jewels. Though a site to behold,
the extravagance is a bit too excessive to consider the piece
particularly beautiful.
We were then led into the crypt, which offers a stark contrast
from the lavish upper floor. Bare brick and stone make
up the oldest portion of the basilica, constructed in the mid
eleventh century. Susan guided us through the history of
the crypt, which serves as the foundation on which the rest
of the basilica stands.
Leaving the crypt, we slowly made our way back out
onto the bustling piazza. The walk back to the ship was a
meandering one, enjoying the twinkling night life, exploring
shops and restaurants that remained open and stopping to
photograph the magnificent sites.
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And off in the far distance, the gold on the wings of
the angel atop the bell tower of San Marco flashed in
the sun, bathing the entire city in its glistening benediction.”
―Donna Leon, Death in a Strange Country
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San Marco’s Biblical Narrative
The 46,000 square feet of colorful mosaics
that crown the ceiling of the magnificent
basilica serve to guide worshipers through the
Gospel story. As the basilica was built and illustrated,
a largely illiterate society relied on spoken word and
visual imagery to educate their Christian faith.
Upon entering the atrium, the sparkling mosaics
navigate viewers through the Old Testament, beginning
with Creation and including the Flood, the story of
Joseph and the Exodus. Just as these ancient biblical
events paved the way for the coming of Christ, the
vibrant mosaics serve as preparation for the visuals in
the nave of the church where the life of Christ becomes
the dazzling focal point.
In the central nave, prophets portrayed with scrolls
inscribed with Old Testament passages foretell of
Christ. The narrative of His life is detailed in glittering
color from His birth, miracles, crucifixion and resurrection,
to – at the crowning apex of the central golden
dome – His glorious ascension.
mosaic on the eastern wall. Beneath His figure is a
window that bathes the interior with sparkles as the
sun rises each morning. The sunlight seems to emanate
from the portrait of Christ, symbolizing Christ as the
light of the world. As the sun sets, the west windows
stream light across the dome, illuminating Christ’s
kingly figure, visually echoing the encouragement of the
Psalmist, “From the rising of the sun to its setting, the
name of the Lord is to be praised.”
Clearly, with each carefully laid stone and the placement
of each mosaic image, the architects had the
biblical narrative in mind, calling the faithful to praise
as they enter the lofty heaven-reaching structure.
Praise the LORD! Praise, O servants of the
LORD, Praise the name of the LORD. Blessed be
the name of the LORD
from this time forth and
forever. From the rising of the sun to its setting
the name of the LORD
is to be praised.”
—Psalm 113: 1–3 (NASB)
Facing the altar, worshipers can’t help but notice the
central image of Christ as Ruler, displayed in rich
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Day 5 | Padua
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Caffé Pedrocchi

Day 5 | Padua
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Padova Padua
A
small picturesque town, Padova, or “Padua,” is home
to a rich and colorful history, evidenced through
numerous renowned works of art and architecture. The
famous Giotto painted the beautiful frescoes inside the
Cappella degli Scrovegni or “Scrovegni Chapel.” Padua also
features an eclectically-constructed eighteenth-century
coffee shop, the esteemed University of Padua – the second-oldest
university in Italy (founded in 1222 as a school
of law) – the Basilica Pontificia di Sant’Antonio di Padova, or
“Basilica of Saint Anthony of Padua,” and other notable
works of art, sculpture and architecture.
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Roaming Historic Streets
Early the following morning, we set off by
coach for Padua, located on the Italian mainland
to the west of Venice. Dreary gray raindrops did
not prevent us from making the most of our day in Padua.
We began our tour of the quaint town by stopping into
the Caffé Pedrocchi, a three-hundred-year-old coffee shop,
noted for its eclectic architecture – as well as its public
[free] restrooms. Since its origins in the eighteenth century,
the Pedrocchi Café welcomed people of all social classes,
from the rich down to the very poor.
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The coffee shop contains three rooms, labeled by the colors
of the Italian flag. Historically, the Green Room served as
the common room where patrons could rest undisturbed by
waiters – even if they weren’t dining at the establishment.

This room became a place for the poor to stay dry and
get warm, or for college students to study with their
classmates. The green room today is still a place where
tourists can rest without being bothered by the waiter
and, as previously stated, visitors are welcome to use
the facilities free of charge – a hot commodity in Italy!
At the opposite end of the café lies the White Room,
a more formal space, where lunch and dinner are
served. In 1848, students in the café were attacked by
Austrian troops in an attempt to stamp out resistance to
Hapsburg rule. Today, the walls of the White Room still
exhibit bullet holes that resulted from the ruckus.
Between the Green and White Rooms is the Red Room,
the largest of the coffeehouse spaces where the historic
coffee bar is located. Each room is furnished tastefully
in a manner respective to its name.
Featuring a fascinating amalgamation of architectural
styles that include Romanesque, Gothic, Byzantine,
Renaissance and Baroque, the choicest words to
describe the interior are “eclectic” and “chaotic.”
The various rooms seem to have no affiliation with
each other. While the room in which lies Saint
Anthony’s body is lavishly embellished in the fanciful
and quite gaudy Baroque style, the central nave exhibits
simplistic bi-colored Romanesque arches – yet even
these have the unique twist of being pointed arches
rather than rounded, owing to Gothic influences. Far
from artistically lovely, the basilica is at least a multifaceted
testament to the diverse influences that contributed
to the local art and architecture.
After touring the basilica and the adjacent abbey, we
made our way back to the main square outside the
Pedrocchi Café. From there, we wandered about
the city center, grabbing a delicious lunch at a hole-inthe-wall
kebab restaurant. Unfortunately, the popular
Scrovegni Chapel was closed on this particular day, so
a visit to the gift shop to pour through books containing
Giotto’s beautiful artwork was all we could afford.
Leaving the café, we wound through the narrow streets,
visiting various historical sites and architectural splendors.
Walking through the large city market, we viewed
the Palazzo della Ragione, the medieval town hall, built
during the thirteenth century and known in Europe for
having the largest roof without supporting columns.
We meandered through the rainy brick streets, eventually
finding ourselves facing the Basilica of Saint
Anthony of Padua. The patron saint of lost items, Saint
Anthony’s church hosts more than five million pilgrims
each year.
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Cattedrale di San Giorgio (Saint George Cathedral)

Ferrara
Located along the Po di Volano, a branch of the Po
River, Ferrara is a small town with a rich Medieval
and Renaissance history. Due to its situation adjacent to
the river, the region surrounding the town is quite lush,
providing a fertile ecosystem with a diverse array of plant
and animal life.
The Castello Estense, a moated medieval castle, is the dominant
landmark of the town. Additionally, Ferrara is home
to the Duomo di Ferrara, a large Catholic cathedral dedicated
Day 6 | Ferrara
to Saint George. A more simplistic Romanesque design,
this cathedral lacks the opulent extravagance of many others
built around the same time and is actually quite lovely.
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Italy’s Natural History
Our ship had departed from Venice and was
now cruising up the Po River, so we set out
to explore a nearby city on the Italian mainland,
opting for an excursion to Ferrara. Upon arriving, I
decided to take off on my own. As the rest of the
group was guided through historic sites in Ferrara, I pinned
down the Museo Civico di Storia Naturale (Natural History
Museum) on the map and set off to find it.
Exploring the museum, I was thoroughly amazed by the
vast array of local flora and fauna on display and the
exhibits of various ecosystems represented in the Province
of Ferrara. Additionally, the museum housed a phenomenal
collection of minerals and fossils from around the world.
My time limit of two hours was not nearly enough to thoroughly
explore all the museum had to offer.
After meeting back up with Pam and Brian, we found a
small Middle Eastern shop serving delicious kebab. After
a generous portion of meat-on-a-stick, we wandered the
alleys of Ferrara, ducking into shops offering colorful wares
of jewelry, textiles and trinkets until we were ready to head
back to the ship.
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Day 7 | Chioggia, Venice
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Chioggia
Just to the south of Venice lies the small island town
of Chioggia. The town has no particular historical
significance. In fact, much of its history has faded into
obscurity, leaving behind little but speculation. However,
the town has a quaint historical feel to it and is quite often
referred to as “Little Venice,” owing to its few canals and
similar architecture.
In current day, Chioggia’s economy flourishes as a fishing
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community, with additional revenue driven by a thriving
textile market, brickmaking and steel. In print, Chioggia
may seem to be but a boring little town, yet in visiting,
you’ll find it to be not only quite colorful, but also graciously
hospitable.

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Shopping, Shopping
We spent our morning in Chioggia
enjoying the sites and sounds – and of
course, the thrilling shopping opportunities –
of the bustling open-air market. Racks upon racks
of stylish clothing, bins of vibrant scarves, tables of
beads and textiles and jewelry… As our meanderings
through the market led us near the port, the scent
of freshly caught fish greeted our nostrils. The town,
known for its saltwater offerings, displayed its catches
on tables of ice beneath colorful awnings.
Reaching the end of the market, our group walked
along the canals, making our way to the coach. We
embarked and were returned to the islands of Venice
where we boarded the ship again. After a refreshing
lunch in the dining room and a climb to the ship’s
rooftop for a charming view of Venice as its shoreline
waved past, we docked at a different Venetian port.
Day 7 | Chioggia, Venice
While some remained on board to explore the ship
or enjoy cocktails in the lounge, Pam and I ventured
out into Venice’s lively streets to explore and do some
shopping for ourselves.
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Samuel Rogers, Italy
There is a glorious city in the sea.
The sea is in the broad, the narrow streets,
Ebbing and flowing; and the salt sea-weed
Clings to the marble of her palaces.
No track of men, no footsteps to and fro,
Lead to her gates. The path lies o’er the sea,
Invisible; and from the land we went,
As to a floating city, – steering in,
And gliding up her streets as in a dream,
So smoothly, silently, – by many a dome,
Mosque-like, and many a stately portico,
The statues ranged along an azure sky;
By many a pile in more than Eastern pride,
Of old the residence of merchant-kings;
The fronts of some, though time had
shattered them,
Still glowing with the richest hues of art,
As though the wealth within them had run o’er.
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Palazzo Ducale (Doge’s Palace)

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Lost in Venice
Torn between touring Venice’s historical
islands and exploring its main complex
on our own, we parted ways. While Brian remained
aboard the ship to see the islands, Pam and I set out on
foot to explore the hundreds of vibrant little Venetian
shops offering colorful assortments of local glass, fanciful
masks, rich textiles and art.
Upon concluding our quest for souvenirs, we trekked
to the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, Venice’s famous
modern art museum. Credited with discovering
South, East from West, yet to still magically find oneself
facing a remarkable landmark. And somehow, you
always manage to find your way out.
Our evening was spent on the ship’s deck, enjoying a
screening of The Tourist, featuring Johnny Depp and
Angelina Jolie maneuvering Venice’s mysterious canals
on a quest to bring down a ring of mobsters. The feature
had certain spellbinding appeal as we floated atop
the very waters where it was filmed, the lively lights of
Venice twinkling around us.
and financing the work of Jackson Pollock, the late
Peggy Guggenheim, niece of mining mogul Solomon
Guggenheim, invested a great deal of her fortune in
art. Her impressive collection, consisting of works by
many notable artists – including Pablo Picasso, Jackson
Pollock, Salvador Dalí, Max Ernst, Marcel Duchamp
and numerous others – is housed in the Palazzo Venier dei
Leoni, an eighteenth century palace, located along the
Grand Canal, where Peggy resided for thirty years.
Rejoining Brian, we spent the afternoon wandering.
The enchanting thing about Venice is that it affords one
the freedom to become completely lost in its winding
streets, without the ability to distinguish North from
Venice is like being in a strange, decadent
dream – the Moorish architecture; the striped
pilons with their peeling paint, which the
gondolas are tied to; the water slapping against
the buildings; the tiny alleys that always feel
a bit wet. I like that little hint of exotic – it
stirs my bones.”
—Iris Apfel, Iris Apfel: Accidental Icon
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Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge)

Rooftop Views
On our last full day in Venice, we began
our morning by taking a water taxi to
the vicinity of the historic Rialto Bridge. We disembarked
not far from the famous bridge and walked
to the nearby Fondaco dei Tedeschi, seeking to take in its
rooftop views.
The historic Fondaco dei Tedeschi, situated along Venice’s
Grand Canal, is one of the city’s largest buildings. It
was originally constructed in 1228, but was rebuilt
in 1508 after being destroyed by fire. Historically a
prominent fixture of commerce, the Fondaco served as
a warehouse and trading post as well as living quarters
for many of its merchants.
Recently, the large square building was privatized,
renovated and transformed into a large shopping
other iconic works of architecture, we spotted many
famous domes scattered across Venice’s skyline, including
those of Saint Mark’s basilica.
We returned to the ship for lunch before setting out as
a group to one of the large glassblowing factories for
a demonstration. Before our eyes, the skilled artisan
displayed his mastery of the craft, quickly and deftly
bringing a glass horse to life from inside the glowing
crimson-orange furnace. At the completion of the
demonstration, we entered the vast and extravagant
show rooms where dazzling gemstone hues sparkled,
reaching out to tickle our eyes and our fancies.
That evening, back on the ship, we all dressed to the
nines and enjoyed a delectable formal dinner for our
final night aboard the ship.
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center in keeping with the historic theme of trade.
The transformed building opened in October of 2016
and is now a major attraction in Venice. Despite the
luxurious interior and famous brands, the most attractive
feature is definitely the rooftop, which serves as an
event space and overlook of Venice.
Taking a lift to the roof, we admired the spectacular
panoramic view of Venice the terrace affords. Among

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Michelangelo’s David

Firenze Florence
Quaint and picturesque, the landscape and architecture
of Florence are a beautiful sight to behold.
Capital of the Tuscany region, Florence is located in
central Italy along the Arno River and is surrounded by
the Apennines Mountains.
Established by Julius Caesar as part of the Roman Empire
in the first century BC, Florence has thrived across millennia
as a blooming metropolitan city. Dubbed the birthplace
of the Italian Renaissance, the historic town is renowned
for its art, architecture and history.
It would take more than a few paragraphs to list the
many famous individuals who contributed to Florence’s
fame. Of note is the powerful Medici family, which played
a significant role in Florence’s political sphere throughout
the Middle Ages. Florence was also home to a great
number of artists and poets including Filippo Brunelleschi,
Michelangelo, Dante, Giotto and Leonardo da Vinci.
Day 10 | Florence
Gelato is one of the highlights of a trip to Italy,
every bit as important as seeing The David.”
—Author Unknown
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A city-size shrine to the Renaissance, Florence offers frescoes,
sculptures, churches, palaces and other monuments from the
richest cultural flowering the world has known.”
—National Geographic
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Admiring Michelangelo
Leaving Venice, we departed by bus for
Florence. On our way to the famous city, we
stopped at a vineyard and enjoyed a relaxing three-course
meal in the garden, serenaded with the light, cheery notes
of classical Italian ballads.
After the savory meal, we continued to Florence, where
our first stop was the Galleria dell’Accademia in which
Michelangelo’s remarkable statue of David is located.
While the museum houses a number of significant works by
great Italian artists such as Sandro Botticelli and Domenico
Ghirlandaio, Michelangelo’s David is undeniably the
masterpiece. Though a sight to behold from afar, the statue
becomes even more impressive as one approaches and perceives
its true monumental size. Visitors are able to circle
the masterpiece, admiring it from all sides. We spent a great
deal of time marveling at the magnificent work.
As it was already late afternoon by the time we departed
the Galleria, we called it a day and proceeded to our hotel
Day 10 | Florence
where we checked in and got settled before setting out on
our own to find dinner.
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Michelangelo’s David
Michelangelo was only twenty-six years old when
he began this sculpture in 1501. Significantly, he had
already sculpted the Pietà in Rome. Upon its completion
in 1504, David was placed in the public square outside the
Palazzo Vecchio, Florence’s government building. The sculpture
remained there until 1873 when it was moved to the
Galleria dell’Accademia where it stands today.
This statue of David, one of the most famous works
of sculpture in the world, embodies the ideals of the
Renaissance period. During this time, art, architecture
and ideas were revived from antiquity, specifically Ancient
Rome. The Renaissance signified a revisiting of humanistic
thought; man is central to his own narrative in an almost
supernatural sense. Michelangelo carved this
worldview into the fourteen-foot sculpture, portraying
David as larger than life, heroic, the ideal form of a man.
When most earlier depictions of the biblical hero portrayed
the young boy victorious, often holding the head of the
conquered Goliath, Michelangelo’s David is preparing for
the battle, determined, confident in his own strength. In
contrast to the biblical narrative, Michelangelo rejected
the Christian view of man as subject to God and placed
emphasis on the strength and power of man himself.
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Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore (Florence Cathedral)

Art and Architecture
in Florence
Waking up the following morning, we set
out for a walking tour of the remarkable
city of Florence. We made our way along the
Arno River to the Piazza della Signoria, the large plaza
facing the Palazzo Vecchio, Florence’s historic town hall.
Adjacent to the palace is the renowned Galleria degli
Uffizi – or the Uffizi Gallery – a prominent museum
dedicated to Italian art, particularly from the time of
the Renaissance. We admired the attached Loggia dei
Lanzi, which serves, in a sense, as an open-air gallery
of Renaissance sculpture.
From the Piazza, we exited back out to the main road
It is quite impossible to imagine Florence’s picturesque
skyline without the magnificent red-orange dome of
its fabulous cathedral. The Cattedrale di Santa Maria del
Fiore isn’t just overwhelming in name, but in structure.
Standing before it, the building seems behemoth, dwarfing
everything around it, including the beholder.
And when I thought of Florence, it was like a
miracle city embalmed and like a corolla, because
it was called the city of lilies and its cathedral,
St. Mary of the Flowers.”
—Marcel Proust, Swann’s Way
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along the Arno River to find ourselves near the picturesque
Ponte Vecchio, noted for the many shops built along
it. Though it was historically common to build shops
along highly trafficked bridges, the Ponte Vecchio is one
of few that remains. Originally constructed as butcher
shops, most of the huts are now occupied by goldsmiths.
Winding our way through the city’s narrow streets, we
took a scenic route to the Piazza del Duomo – the square
over which looms the impressively ornate Florence
Cathedral – stopping to admire other significant works
of architecture on our way.
While the façcade alone towers above all other
surrounding structures, the grand cathedral’s magnificent
dome stretches even higher toward the sky. This
dome is the great masterpiece of Italian architect and
designer, Filippo Brunelleschi, a man who continues
to stun the modern world with his artistic and architectural
innovations which include the discovery of
linear perspective, creation of inventive machinery
and ingenious feats of architecture. Even five hundred
years after its construction, the cathedral’s dome

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remains the largest masonry dome ever built – and it is
a mystery to modern architects and engineers alike.
Facing the great cathedral is the splendid Florence
Baptistery. A beautiful example of Romanesque
architecture, the baptistery is one of the oldest buildings
in the city, constructed in the late eleventh century. In
keeping with the standard construction of other baptisteries
of the period, the structure is octagonal. A contrast
of dark and light marble creates a stunning visual
effect upon the arches and columns of the building.
The baptistery is also famous for its gilded bronze doors
on the east featuring the Gates of Paradise, designed by
Brunelleschi’s rival Lorenzo Ghiberti.
Having concluded our guided tour of the city’s significant
architecture, we spread out to navigate the web
of streets offering small leather boutiques, gelato shops
and trinket and souvenir stores.
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A Day of Remembrance
Leaving Florence, we began the journey toward
our final destination city of Rome. Making
its way uphill, our bus wound through the foothills of the
surrounding Apennines to the Piazzale Michelangelo, which
affords a panoramic view of Florence and the blue-gray
mountains that gently encompass the city. We stopped to
admire the terracotta rooftops stretching out before us, a
monotone sea of red-brown hues, interrupted by the behemoth
mass of the Florence Cathedral. After a few short
minutes of snapping photos and gazing upon the fairytale-like
view, we reboarded the bus to continue our journey
toward the famous and historic city of Rome.
Being the day after Memorial Day, our guide surprised
us with an impromptu visit to the Florence American
Cemetery, which happened to be en route. The cemetery
serves as the burial site for nearly five thousand American
troops killed during World War II in fighting that took
place in Rome and the Apennines Mountains. At the crown
of the hillside adorned with thousands of bright white
crosses, is a stone memorial listing the names of fourteen
hundred soldiers missing in action. The atmosphere and
attitude were contemplative and reverent as we again
boarded the bus.
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We enjoyed a guided tour and a peaceful lunch at the
Castello di Verrazzano, a lovely vineyard known for its organic
production of Chianti Classico in the Chianti region in
Tuscany. Dating back more than one thousand years,
the vineyard is one of the most ancient currently functioning
vineyards in the area.
Arriving in Rome, we checked into our hotel, decorated in
a slightly avant garde style. After some rest, we ventured
Day 12 | Florence, Rome
out into the nearby streets to find an easy bite for dinner.
Locating a small modern café, we tucked ourselves into a
corner and enjoyed some light snacks before heading back
to the hotel for some much-needed sleep prior to trekking
across the city of Rome the following day.
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Il Colosseo (Colosseum)

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Roma Rome
A
city praised for its history, architecture and
romanticism, Rome is one of the most popular
destinations in the world. Across a history of more than
twenty-eight centuries, Rome served as a metropolis
of Western Civilization. Many great philosophers,
artists, poets, sculptors, architects, inventors and mathematicians
walked its streets, carving their mark upon
the world. Included on the list of these history-inspiring
individuals are the likes of ruler Julius Caesar, orator
and writer Cicero, mathematician Ptolemy, emperor
Constantine, artist Michelangelo, painter Raphael,
architect Brunelleschi and sculptors Donatello and
Bernini to name only a few.
Located in the central western area of the Italian peninsula,
Rome is situated along the shores of the Tiber
River, which winds its way into the nearby Tyrrhenian
Sea. Within the city’s interior lies the independent country
of Vatican City State, hub of Roman Catholicism
and home to Saint Peter’s Basilica, the Sistine Chapel
and of course, the pope.
The great city of Rome is wrapped in a shroud of
legend and mythological splendor. Though originally
inhabited nearly ten thousand years ago, Roman
mythology anchors its beginnings in eight century BC.
The city’s name is attributed to its first king, Romulus,
who was crowned following a fatal altercation with his
twin Remus that resulted in his brother’s death.
Rome boasts a rich and unparalleled historical and
cultural experience. In contrast to many destination
cities, a majority of Rome’s ancient, Renaissance
and Baroque wonders reside at the heart of city,
putting must-see attractions within easy walking distance
of each other.
With nearly ten million international travelers flocking
to the city each year, tourists, students and academics
flood the ticket counters of Rome’s famous attractions
and esteemed museums as religious pilgrims pay their
faithful dues at Saint Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican
City. Some of the most popular destinations include
the famous Colosseum and Roman Forum, the Trevi
Fountain, the Pantheon and the Spanish Steps.
Rome is not like any other city. It’s a big
museum, a living room that shall be crossed
on one’s toes.”
—Alberto Sordi
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Rome’s Ancient Splendors
Day one in Rome consisted of a walking
overview of its famed must-see sites. After
spending the morning wandering about the lesser known
sites near the hotel, which included a visit to the church
Santa Maria della Vittoria to view Bernini’s masterpiece, the
Ecstasy of Saint Theresa, our group lunched together at a
private loft on the Isola Tiberina, a magical little island in the
middle of the Tiber River at the southern end of historic
Rome. A vintage structure that had been featured in the
1960 Italian film, L’Avventura, the loft boasted fascinating
architecture consisting of domed doorways and walls. The
rooms were tastefully and airily decorated with simple, yet
elegant, modern elements.
After an excellent three-course Italian meal, we began our
trek through historic Rome. The first significant landmark
was the Monumento Nazionale a Vittorio Emanuele II, an
enormous monument towering over the Piazza Venezia, the
central hub of Rome. Superfluous and imposing, this work
of architecture was dedicated to the first king of unified
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Italy, Victor Emmanuel II. Despite your location in the city,
the shining white structure, elevated by an unattractive base
of square pearly marble is hard to miss, its two crowning
statues to the goddess Victoria keeping watch over the city.

The Colosseum was our next stop. We admired its gran-
plaza today. Seating areas became the foundations for
each corner, symbolizing the four continents over which
diose exterior before entering the ancient wonder to
new structures such as churches, schools and shops,
the papacy had authority. The Danube River represents
gawk at its sheer size, wondering in amazement at the
many of which remain today in some form.
Europe; the Nile, Africa; the Ganges, Asia; and the Río
masterminds behind such a spectacular feat. Standing
atop the structure, it’s easy to imagine the dramatic
scenes this behemoth structure had seen play out on
its sweeping floor. However, the missing floor, which
reveals the ruins of the basement below, and an overall
state of disrepair make it difficult to imagine how the
Colosseum once stood in its former glory.
Rome was a poem pressed into service as a city.”
—Anatole Broyard
At the center of the plaza stands the famous Fontana dei
Quattro Fiumi, or Fountain of the Four Rivers, commissioned
by Pope Innocent X and designed by the great
de la Plata, the Americas.
From the Piazza, we walked the short distance to
the nearby Pantheon, built early in the second century
AD as a temple to the gods. With a circular layout,
the diameter of the interior space equals the height
such that the spherical dome could be extended to
create a perfect sphere inside the building. Nearly two
Moving on from the Colosseum, we made our way
Baroque sculptor and architect, Gian Lorenzo Bernini.
thousand years after its construction, the roof remains
to the Piazza Navona, built over the first century AD
The tallest standing Egyptian obelisk in the world, taken
the world’s largest unenforced concrete dome. At the
Stadium of Domitian. In the fifteenth century, a floor
was installed over the central area and serves as the
from Egypt after the Roman conquest, rises from the
center of the fountain with four river gods stationed at
top of the dome is a large oculus that lets sunlight in,
creating a reverse sundial effect. Having been used
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The Roman Colosseum
A magnificent ancient structure, the colossal
amphitheatre is the most visited attraction in
Rome. Originally opened in the first century AD,
the Colosseum has survived nearly two thousand years.
With an estimate of more than seven million visitors
each year, the Colosseum is figured to be the most
visited tourist attraction in the world.
While many similar Roman amphitheatres exist, some
of which are in far superior condition and still serve
as backdrops for events such as bullfights, operas and
ballets, the Colosseum in Rome is significant because
it was the largest amphitheatre ever built. Additionally,
as Rome was the capitol of the Roman Empire, the
Colosseum and neighboring Roman Forum were the
stages upon which much of Rome’s political history
was played out.
Construction of the Colosseum, also known as the
Flavian Amphitheatre, was begun in AD 72 by the
emperor Vespasian and completed by his successor
Titus in AD 80. These two emperors also constructed
a similar amphitheatre the coastal city of Pozzuoli,
located about two hundred fifty kilometers south of
Rome. Shortly after the completion of the Colosseum,
the emperor Domitian also made modifications to
the structure during his reign. These three emperors –
Vespasian, Titus and Domitian – made up the Flavian
dynasty and the amphitheatre was given its Latin
name, Amphitheatrum Flavium, thusly. The common name,
“Colosseum,” was likely derived from the Colossus of
Nero, a 100-foot-tall statue of Nero that stood nearby.
Constructed of travertine, volcanic tuff and Roman
concrete, the Colosseum was the stage for gladiatorial
contests, animal hunts, public executions and staged
dramas. It is estimated that the arena could seat up to
eighty thousand people.
In the fifth century, the Colosseum was neglected as an
scene for entertainment and fell into disrepair. Through
the eighteenth century, the structure was transformed
into a quarry of sorts, becoming a source of marble,
brick and other materials for building projects throughout
the city.
Though the Colosseum may not reflect the splendor
of what it once was, it still stands as an icon of the once
glorious, nearly omnipotent Roman Empire.
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consistently since its construction, the Pantheon has been
better preserved than most Ancient Roman buildings.
Notably, the famous painter Raphael is entombed in
the Pantheon.
Wandering past various street performers, we made
our way to the Trevi Fountain, one of the most famous
fountains in the world. Constructed in 1762 and standing
eighty-six feet high, the Trevi Fountain is the largest
Baroque fountain in Rome. Oceanus, god of the mythological
River Okeanos, is the fountain’s central figure.
Traditionally, coins should be tossed into the fountain over
the left shoulder using the right hand. Legend holds that
tossing a coin into the fountain guarantees a return trip
to Rome someday.
After completing our walking tour of Rome, we spent
our evening experiencing the city by taste. We tasted
delicious wines and cheeses at a small shop off the beaten
path, dined on fried zucchinis and artichokes in the Jewish
Ghetto, stuffed ourselves with personal pizzas and beers at
a hole-in-the-wall eatery and concluded our evening with
authentic mouth-watering gelato.
With full stomachs, we trekked back to our hotel and tucked
ourselves in for a night of rest before venturing out again
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the next morning.

Men did not love Rome because she was great.
She was great because they had loved her.”
—G. K. Chesterton, Orthodoxy
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Basilica di San Pietro

Città Vaticano
Vatican del City
A
small city-state encircled by the city of Rome, the
Vatican was established in 1929 as a result of the
Lateran Treaty. Though its independent status is relatively
recent, the history of its authority, the Holy See, dates back
to early Christianity.
Saint Peter’s Basilica stands near the site of the first century
AD Circus of Nero. In front of the famous church, a tow-
ering obelisk, seized from Egypt by Emperor Augustus
and erected in the Circus by Caligula, now stands as
the sole remnant of Nero’s Circus where it is believed Saint
Peter was crucified upside down.
Capitol of the Roman Catholic Church, Vatican City State
is known for being the location of Saint Peter’s Basilica, the
Sistine Chapel and a treasure trove of other architectural
and artistic wonders, including Michelangelo’s famous
Pietà. The impressive Vatican Museums contain a remarkable
collection of Roman sculpture and Renaissance art,
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compiled over centuries by the popes. With fifty-four galleries
in total, tours of the museums culminate in entrance to
the Sistine Chapel, where visitors are repeatedly encouraged
to maintain reverent silence as they crane their necks
to gawk at Michelangelo’s vivid illustrations that adorn
the ceiling above.

Many believe – and I believe –
that I have been designated for
this work by God. In spite of my
old age, I do not want to give it up;
I work out of love for God and I
put all my hope in Him.”
—Michelangelo
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Day 14 | Vatican City
106

Artistic Wonders
of Vatican City State
Arriving inside Vatican City, we pressed our
way through the crowds to enter the Vatican
Museums. After passing through the metal detectors, we
joined the stream of people winding their way through
the vast galleries to see the historic works. The hallways
were extraordinarily packed with onlookers admiring
the assortment of sculpture, paintings and tapestries.
Our visit to the galleries concluded in the glorious Sistine
Chapel. We took our time, gaping at the wonder of
Michelangelo’s brush upon ceiling above us, admiring
vivid colors and intricate details. No allotment of time is
sufficient to thoroughly take in its full magnificence. Yet,
we slowly migrated to the exit and made our way to Saint
Peter’s Basilica, another famous site in Vatican City.
One of many domes rising above the desert of earthen-
colored rooftops, Saint Peter’s is easily recognized as the
tallest peak of the historic city center – and one of the
most recognizable structures adorning Rome’s picturesque
skyline. The remarkable dome was designed by the great
Michelangelo, a project which he started at the ripe age
of seventy-one. Though he dedicated the rest of his life to
its construction, it was not completed until twenty-six years
after his death.
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Day 14 | Vatican City
108

While the dome and façade are impressive from the exterior,
the colors and enormity are even more striking from the
inside. The sheer size of the beautiful building is enough
to make a visitor feel like a tiny speck. While lofty and grandiose,
Saint Peter’s, unlike other Catholic churches, feels
light and airy, as sunlight streams in and reflects off
the bright golden interior.
Every beauty which is seen here by persons of
perception resembles more than anything else that
celestial source from which we all are come.”
—Michelangelo
That afternoon, I rested at the hotel while Pam and Brian
set out to visit the Roman Forum, the ancient ruins of the
Roman Republic’s government buildings. Our last evening
as a group was spent at a lovely modern restaurant. We
enjoyed our final meal of pasta and wine together before
bidding adieu to each other at the hotel.
109

Day 15 | Rome
110

Fontana della Barcaccia, Scalinata di Trinità dei Monti

Conclusion
On our final day in Rome, we set out to
find our must-see sites that hadn’t been
included in the group tour. The first marker on
our map was the Basilica di San Clemente, a church
known for the layers of history upon which it was
built. Excavations beneath the church have exposed
a fourth century. Below this are the remains of a third
century pagan temple and further down are ruins of
a first century home, likely belonging to Titus Flavius
Clemens, where early Christians worshiped secretly
as Christianity was outlawed in Rome.
Unfortunately, the excavations were closed when we
visited due to electrical outages in the city. Though
disappointed to miss the site we’d hiked so far to see,
we were able to enter the modern San Clemente church
to marvel at the stunning golden mosaics adorning the
apse and to gawk at the eclectic blend of architecture
boasting both Early Christian and Baroque elements.
Leaving San Clemente, we wandered our way through
I found Rome a city of bricks and left it a
city of marble.”
—Emperor Augustus
toward the Spanish Steps, a steep set of stairs linking
the Piazza di Spagna at the bottom with the Piazza Trinità
dei Monti at their summit. We approached the steps from
the top and carefully descended the slippery marble to
reach the Piazza below.
At the base of the stairs in the center of the Piazza
is the Fontana della Barcaccia, or Fountain of the Boat,
designed by Pietro Bernini, father of famed sculptor
and architect, Gian Lorenzo Bernini. The fountain’s
primary sculpture is a half sunken ship, water spraying
upwards and overflowing its sides.
We slowly climbed our way back to the crown of the
stairs, sitting to rest at the top and take in the beautiful
panorama of the square below us.
and Maserati vehicles. We stepped inside to marvel at
the luxurious cars, thus concluding our sightseeing tour
of Rome, not with its ancient wonders, but with Italy’s
most modern ones.
For someone who has never seen Rome, it is
hard to believe how beautiful life can be.”
—Anonymous
That evening, we packed up our clothes and souvenirs
before a short night of sleep. The following morning,
we made sure to grab our passports as we left the room,
closing the door behind us and bidding a sincere arrivederci
to the beautiful country of Italy.
Day 15 | Rome
112
the historical streets back toward the city center. We
stopped near the Colosseum for a hearty pasta lunch,
one of our final authentic Italian meals of the trip.
Passing the Colosseum and Roman Forum, we hiked
Making our way back to the hotel – via the scenic route
of course – to pack and get some rest before our long
journey, we meandered past the old city wall to find a
shop called Samocar, a small dealership of luxury Ferrari

113

Italy land that I love. Italy land of my dreams.
Italy where the art of Florence is quite a sight.
Italy land where the isle of Capri shines bright.
Italy where the cities of Milan and Naples do bustle.
Italy land where the gondolas of Venice still hustle.
Italy where Rome and the Coliseum stand majestic.
Italy land where the vineyards and countryside of Tuscany
are beautifully rustic.
Italy where the Leaning Tower of Pisa still stands.
Italy land where Sicily and its people are grand.
Italy where pasta, wine, and cappuccino are the norm.
Italy land where opera is sung and new fashions are born.
Italy land that I love. Italy land of my dreams.
Viva Italia!”
—Roy Whitman
Colophon
114

Colophon
Copy in this book was set using 9-point Baskerville type, a
serif typeface designed by British designer John Baskerville in the
1750s. His designs were then cut into metal by a punchcutter. A
transitional typeface, Baskerville increased the then-standard contrast
between thick and thin letter strokes. The letterforms were influenced
by John Baskerville’s early training in calligraphy.
Headers were set using Gotham with the
decorative Edwardian Script as ornamentation.
Originally commissioned by GQ magazine, Gotham was
developed by American type designer Tobias Frere-Jones in the year
2000 and is licensed by the type foundry Hoefler & Co. Inspired by
architectural signage, the letterforms look beautiful in large
sizes, yet are extremely legible at small sizes.
Edwardian Script was designed by Edward Benguiat, a
New York-based type designer and calligrapher. The script,
based upon hand writing with a steel pointed pen,
was published by ITC in 1994.
115

Fotografie Photographs
Front Cover: Roof of the Galleria (looking upwards); Galleria, Milan
Back Cover: Dome of Saint Peter’s; Saint Peter’s Basilica, Vatican City State
Dedication
Page 4: Brian, Liz and Pam overlooking Venice; Palazzo Fondaco dei Tedeschi, Venice.
Photo: Pam Hudson
Day 1: Milan
Page 8: Duomo façade; Milan
Page 9: Galleria and Milan; Duomo rooftop, Milan
Page 10–11: Roof of the Galleria (looking upwards); Galleria, Milan
Day 2: Milan
Page 14: Stained glass window; Duomo, Milan
Page 15: Interior of the Galleria; Milan
Pages 16–17: Vehicles in the Mille Miglia; Via Santa Margherita, Milan
Page 18: Sforza Castle, Milan
Page 19: The Last Supper; Santa Maria delle Grazie church,Milan
Pages 20–21: View of statues on the Duomo and the Milan skyline; Duomo rooftop, Milan
Page 22: Duomo detail; Duomo rooftop, Milan
Day 3: Verona, Valpolicella
Page 26: Campanile; Verona
Page 27: View of the balcony; Juliet’s house, Verona
Page 28: 1st century AD Roman gate, Porta Borsari; Verona
Page 29: Renaissance frescoes on Verona houses; Verona
Pages 30–31: Courtyard view of the winery; Serego Alighieri vineyard, Valpolicella
Page 32: Rose wall; Serego Alighieri vineyard, Valpolicella
Page 33: Table settings; Serego Alighieri vineyard, Valpolicella
Photographs
116

Day 4: Venice
Pages 36–37: View of Venice at twilight; Riva San Biagio, Venice
Page 38: Tintoretto’s Paradise; Sala del Maggior Consiglio (Hall of the Great Council), Doge’s Palace, Venice
Page 40: A prisoner’s final view of Venice; Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs), Doge’s Palace, Venice
Page 41: Colorful buildings; Burano, Venice
Page 42: San Marco façade, main door, Last Judgment by Liborio Salandri, Horses of Saint Mark; San Marco, Venice
Page 43: San Marco Basilica; Piazza del San Marco, Venice
Page 44–46: Mosaic above the San Alipio door on San Marco’s façade; San Marco, Venice
Day 5: Padua
Pages 48–49: Equestrian Statue of Gattamelata by Renaissance artist Donatello; Piazza del Santo, Padua
Page 50: Caffé Pedrocchi; Padua
Page 51: Basilica Pontificia di Sant’Antonio di Padova; Padua
Day 6: Ferrara
Pages 54–55: Castello Estense; Ferrara
Day 7: Chioggia and Venice
Pages 58–59: Boats docked along the canal; Canale Perottolo, Chioggia
Page 60: Decorative window; corner of Calle Pedrocchi and Riva dei Sette Martiri, Venice
Page 61: Hotel Londra Palace; Venice
Pages 62–63: Western entrance to the Grand Canal; Venice
Day 8: Venice
Pages 66–67: Gondola station; Venice
Pages 68–69: Glass sculptures based on sketches by Picasso, by Egidio Costantini; Peggy Guggenheim Collection, Venice
Day 9: Venice
Pages 72–73: Panoramic view of Venice; Fondacco dei Tedeschi, Venice
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Day 10: Florence
Page 76: Detail of Michelangelo’s David; Galleria dell’Accademia, Florence, Italy
Page 77: Panoramic view of Florence; Piazzale Michelangelo, Florence
Page 78: The Young Slave, one of Michelangelo’s slaves; Galleria dell’Accademia, Florence, Italy
Page 79: Michelangelo’s David; Galleria dell’Accademia, Florence, Italy
Day 11: Florence
Page 82–83: Façade of the Florence Cathedral; Florence
Page 84: Florence Cathedral, Florence
Page 85: Panel portraying the story of Noah from Ghiberti’s Gates of Paradise; Baptistery, Florence
Day 12: Florence
Page 88: Florence American Cemetery, Florence
Page 89: Headstone of an unknown soldier; Florence American Cemetery, Florence
Pages 90 – 91: View from a terrace at the Castello di Verrazzano; Chianti
Day 13: Rome
Pages 94–95: Colosseum; Rome
Pages 96: Street performer; Rome
Page 97: Panoramic view of Rome; Pincian Hill, Villa Borghese Park, Rome
Pages 98–99: Colosseum; Rome
Pages 100–101: Trevi Fountain; Rome
Day 14: Rome
Pages 104–105: Saint Peter’s Basilica; Saint Peter’s Square, Vatican City State
Page 106: Michelangelo’s Pietà; Saint Peter’s Basilica, Vatican City State
Page 107: Baldacchino di San Pietro/Altar of Bernini beneath Saint Peter’s dome; Saint Peter’s Basilica, Vatican City State
Pages 108–109: Dome of Saint Peter’s; Saint Peter’s Basilica, Vatican City State
Day 15: Rome
Page 113: Overlooking the Roman Forum from the northwest side of the Colosseum; Rome
Page 115: Temple of Antoninus and Faustina; Roman Forum, Rome
Photographs
118

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