Lance at Large - Icelandic Tourist Board

Iceland Edited by Reed Ide 

® 

Iceland 

Edited by Reed Ide

4 GetawayGay Iceland 

Essential Iceland 

Getting There From North America 

When you’re on vacation, why get bogged down with choices? There’s 

only one airline to fly to Iceland from the Western Atlantic and that is 

Icelandair, which has dubbed itself “the coolest airline crossing the 

Atlantic.” Nonstop flights to Reykjavik are available from Toronto, 

Seattle, Baltimore/ Washington, Boston, and Minneapolis/St. Paul. In 

the spring, summer and fall, flights depart from New York City as well,; 

and in late fall, winter, and early spring flights operate from Orlando. 

Icelandair also offers daily service through its hub at Reykjavik to and 

from London, Glasgow, Oslo, Stockholm, Copenhagen, Helsinki, 

Amsterdam, Frankfurt, Munich, Barcelona, Madrid, Milan, Paris, and 

other European cities. Contact your travel agent or the airline directly 

at www.icelandair.com for up-to-date schedules. and fares.

Getting there from Europe 

Icelandair serves more than 13 European cities, 

making 

Rekjavik an easy reach for most travelers. 

Some 

folks have the added choice of flying Iceland 

Express. 

This discount airline operates from 10 

European 

countries with limited but regularly 

scheduled 

flights. Prices can fluctuate, and those 

planning 

to fly should visit www.icelandexpress. 

com. 

Online booking and flexibility are musts. 

Arrival 

All international flights to Iceland arrive at 

Keflavik 

Airport, located some 50 kilometers (31 

miles) 

outside of Reykjavik, the nation’s capital. 

The 

airport is small, modern, and very efficient.. 

A bank branch at the airport arrival hall is available 

to 

exchange currency or cash travelers’ checks. 

There 

are also ATMs to accept credit cards and 

debit 

cards affiliated with major credit cards. 

There is a duty-free shop for arriving passengers, 

offering 

a last chance to stock up on lower-cost 

alcohol. 

(see alcohol section ahead) Note: Currently, 

Icelandair 

does not allow duty-free liquor to be 

brought 

on the aircraft at your departure airport. 

Once you’ve retrieved your luggage, cleared 

customs, 

and taken care of your financial needs, hop 

on 

a Flybus that will take you from the airport to 

Reykjavik 

in less than an hour. The fare 

is 

ISK 2200, or about $17, much cheaper 

than 

a taxi, where the meter ticks up with 

alarming 

frequency. The bus takes you 

to 

the main bus station in Reykjavik, 

and 

from there you can transfer to one 

of 

several Flybus vans that will take 

you 

to any of the city’s major hotels. 

If 

you are staying at a smaller hotel or 

Essential Iceland 5 

Below, Keflavik International 

Airport. 

Bottom, The puffin is an 

instantly recognized symbol 

of Iceland.


a guesthouse, you may need to take 

a taxi from the bus station to your 

accommodations, for an average 

cost of about $18. Check with your 

accomodation when booking to know 

if it is served by the Flybus. (If not, 

your Flybus fare is 1700 ISK.) 

If you are renting a car at the airport, 

you can make arrangements with your 

rental company in advance to be met 

at the airport. 

Currency and Banking 

The unit of currency in Iceland is 

the Icelandic krona (ISK). Coins are 

issued in ISK 1, 5,10, 50, and 100. 

Paper is issued in ISK 500, 1000, 2000, 

and 5000 notes. One dollar equals 

approximately 130 ISK. ATMs can be 

found throughout Iceland. Machines 

located inside the main doors of a 

bank branch, however, are often only 

available during normal banking hours. 

Banks are open from 9:15 am to 4 pm 

Monday through Friday, except for 

national holidays (see page 9). Major 

credit cards and debit cards linked to 

major credit cards are accepted. 

Climate 

Considering its northern location, 

Iceland enjoys a relatively moderate 

climate, thanks in large part to the 

Gulf Stream passing its southern 

coast. Summers are cool, and winters 

are usually less harrowing than those 

in cities like New York, Buffalo or 

Chicago. Winter weather, however, can 

be quite changeable with wind gusts, 

snow squalls and sleet storms springing 

up with little warning. No matter when 

you travel to Iceland it is advisable to 

bring sweaters, and to dress in layers, 

especially in the more northern areas. 

The average temperatures in Iceland 

range from 32 degrees Fahrenheit (0 

Celsius), in January to 52 degrees (11 

Celsius), in July. There are some summer 

DATE SUNRISE SUNSET 

March 21 7:30 am 7:45 pm 

June 21 3 am 12 midnight 

September 21 7 am 7:30 pm 

December 21 11:20 am 3:30 pm 

Reykjavik panorama

days when the temperature can climb to 

a hot 75 degrees (23 Celsius). 

Iceland enjoys endless light in the 

summer, and long hours of darkness in 

the winter. 

The chart shows the approximate 

sunrise/sunset times in Reykjavik for 

equinox and solstice dates. 

Time Zone 

Iceland remains on Greenwich 

Mean Time (GMT) year-round. From 

November through early March, it is 

fi ve hours ahead of New York. From 

early March through October, it is 

four hours ahead. When the European 

countries go on Summer Time, Iceland 

is two hours behind. In winter months, 

it is one hour behind. 

Lance at large 

Getting lucky in the air 


Icelandair is great for the budget-minded traveler. To get the best fares and 

other special offers, you have to join their Netclub. Log onto www.icelandair. 

com, click on the Lucky Club sign-up link, fi ll in the resulting enrollment 

form, and click “submit.” Icelandair will send a weekly bulletin announcing 

current low fares, offered to subscribers. These are only available in the 

U.S. and Canada, and must be booked online. They are more restrictive than 

other fares, and there is limited availability. Lucky fares are also offered for 

fl ights to Icelandair’s destination cities in Scandinavia, Great Britain, and 

Continental Europe. They include the ability to stop over in Iceland at no 

additional cost. Amsterdam and Reykjavik? You can’t beat it. 

Driving Rules 

Icelanders drive on the right side 

of the road. In residential areas, the 

speed limit is 30 kilometers per hour 

(20 miles per hour). Out on the open 

road, you can drive 90 kph (60 mph) 

on the paved roads, and 80 kph (50 

mph) on the dirt roads. Anticipate even 

Iceland’s currency is the Krona.

8 GetawayGay Iceland

National Holidays 

Iceland celebrates 

the following 

National Holidays: 

New Year’s Day 

(January 1) 

Maundy Thursday 

(Thursday before Easter) 

Good Friday 

(Friday before Easter) 

Easter Sunday 

Easter Monday 

(Monday after Easter) 

First Day of Summer 

(Third Thursday of April) 

Labor Day 

(May 1) 

Ascension Day 

(The 40th day after Easter) 

White Sunday and Monday 

(The 7th Sunday and 

Monday after Easter) 

National Day 

(June 17) 

Verslunarmannahelgi 

(First Monday in August, 

including the weekend) 

Christmas Eve 

(December 24) 

Christmas Day 

(December 25) 

New Year’s Eve 

(December 31) 


lower maximums on narrower roads and bridges. 

Icelanders love their domestic animals, frequently 

found wandering along rural roads. So swerve 

around Fluffy. The law will hold you responsible for 

creating any beloved pet or farm animal road-kill. 

Midnight sun or not, your headlights must be 

on whenever you drive, and wearing a seatbelt is 

mandatory. Icelandic roads can be slippery and 

winding. Traffic laws in Iceland are based on the 

premise that patience is a virtue; right turns on red 

are prohibited. Road signs follow the international 

standard. For up-to-date information on driving 

conditions, call 563-1500. 

Alcohol 

Visitors to Iceland will receive their largest culture 

shock the first time they visit a liquor store. A liter of 

hard liquor costs the equivalent of $60 or more. Don’t 

expect to find the less expensive brands available. It 

is best to stock up at the duty-free shop at Keflavik.. 

Should you need to purchase alcohol during your 

stay, you can purchase beer, wine, and harder spirits 

at state-run liquor stores, called ÁTVR. Reykjavik 

had five of them at last count, with one conveniently 

located in the center of the city at Austurstraeti 

10A. Most towns outside Reykjavik also have 

ÁTVR shops. Buat at these prices, moderation is 

recommended for all but the profligate spenders. 

The people of Iceland take their drinking seriously, 

especially on the weekends. But don’t get behind the 

wheel if you have been drinking at all. Iceland’s police 

will arrest you if your blood alcohol level exceeds .05. 

In other words, drink just one pint of beer and you’re 

over the limit! Fines are heavy. Let the driver beware. 

There are meetings of Alcoholics Anonymous 

in Reykjavik that are conducted in English. The


meetings take place at the AA House 

By The Lake, Tjarnargata 20, Sundays 

at 7 pm, Tuesdays at 8 pm, and Fridays 

at 7 pm. For more information, call 

551-2010. 

Telephones 

Iceland phone numbers are sevendigits 

long, and dialing 118 will get you 

a helpful operator. Calling into Iceland 

from foreign countries requires dialing 

354 plus the seven-digit local number. 

When calling internationally from 

within Iceland, dial 00, the country 

code, area code (or city code), and 

local phone number. For calls within 

Iceland, simply dial the seven-digit 

local number. 

Electric Current 

Iceland’s current is 220 volts, 50 hz. 

Standard American appliances will not 

work without a transformer (do not use 

simple plug adapters). If you take your 

laptop to Iceland, it should be equipped 

with a universal power supply. European 

appliances will operate in Iceland, but 

plug adaptors may be necessary. 

Reykjavik Welcome Card 

This is your skeleton key to all 

things exciting in Reykjavik. Flashing 

it will get you free access to major 

museums, the Reykjavik Bus Company, 

Reykjavik thermal pools, the Reykjavik 

Zoo, and much more. It will get you 

discounts on tours, in restaurants, and 

Glenn Barkan

in some shops. The card comes with a 

brochure containing information about 

participating organizations, opening 

hours, and bus schedules. You can 

purchase this magical card at the 

Tourist Information Center, Adalstraeti 

2. Tel: 590 1550. Prices are: one-day 

Card (24 hrs.): ISK 1400; two-day 

Card (48 hrs.): ISK 1900; three-day 

Card (72 hrs.): ISK 2400. 

Public Transportation 

Aside from an occasional taxi, 

visitors in Reykjavik rarely need public 

transportation. Most sights and shops 

can be reached on foot quite easily. 

The city has an effi cient and clean 

bus system. Bus fare for rides within 

the city is ISK 280 (about $2.75). 

Exact change is required. Reykjavik 

city buses normally come every 20 

minutes during the week, every half 

hour on weekends. Taxis are called 

for, in Reykjavik and arrive promptly. 

There are also taxi ranks in the city. 

Medical and 

Dental Emergencies 

Third-degree burns from volcanic 

lava? Chipped fi lling from chattering 

your teeth while on a frigid glacier? 

In Iceland, the number for true 

emergencies is 112. For Reykjavik 

doctors on call, dial 525-1700 or 

525-1500. For dental emergencies, 

even on the weekends, call 575-0505. 


We Are Everywhere 

Jóhanna Sigurðardóttir 

Some folks remember when the 

Arab news organization Al Jezeera 

came to report on the world’s fi rst 

openly gay head of state. Says one 

man, “They expected to report we 

were upset having a lesbian Prime 

Minister. Instead they had to say we 

were quite ok with the fact.” Jóhanna 

Sigurðardóttir has devoted nearly 

all her life to politics. It began when 

she was a union organizer while a 

stewardess for Icelandair in the 1960s. 

She has been a member of the Althing 

(parliament) since 1978, and has served 

on many committees and delegations. 

In 2002, she and her partner Jónína 

Leósdóttir (an accomplished author 

and playwright), were married. As 

a public fugure, she understandably 

keeps her private life private. The work 

of leading the country out of economic 

collapse is monumental. She enjoys 

good will from the citizens, and brings 

courage and determination to the job. 

As the world watches, few Icelanders 

doubt she is equal to the task. 

Appointed 

Prime Minister 

February 1, 2009 

Elected 

in her own right 

April 25, 2009


Pharmacies stay open between 9 am and 

6 pm, and assistance for medications 

can be obtained by calling 551-8888. 

Help with HIV-related issues is available 

from Iceland’s HIV/AIDS organization 

Alnaemissamtökin a Islandi, located at 

Hverfi sgotu 69. Tel: 552-8586. 

Post Offi ce/Postage 

Post offi ces are located in all Iceland 

towns, and are open between 8:30 

am and 4:30 pm Monday through 

A small part of the crowd at the 2008 Gay 

Pride festivities in downtown Reykjavik. 

Compare with the photo on page 64 

Friday. The downtown post offi ce in 

Reykjavik, located at Posthusstraeti 5, 

is also open on Saturdays June-August 

from 10 am to 2 pm. Postcards up to 

20 grams airmailed from Iceland will 

cost ISK 140 (about $1.25). 

Laundry 

Did you spill that Icelandic delicacy 

of lamb-testicle on your best Polo shirt? 

Not to worry, laundry and dry-cleaning 

is offered at the majority of larger 

hotels in Iceland. There are also two 

public laundries in Reykjavik. Þvoið 

Sjalf, located at Barónsstigur 3; and 

Laundry Service, located at Vesturgata

12. Some campgrounds and hostels 

in the interior of Iceland also offer 

laundry and cleaning facilities. 

Religion 

The national religion of Iceland is 

Evangelical Lutheran, although no 

Icelander is ever more than a few 

angry lightning bolts away from 

Viking mythology. This is a country 

where you can still fi nd those who 

hold a belief in trolls and elves. 

There is a Roman Catholic Church 

in Reykjavik, located at Havallagata14 

(Tel: 552-5619). Mass is offered in 

English each Sunday at 6 pm. Several 

other evangelical denominations are 

also in Iceland. There are no Jewish 

synagogues anywhere in Iceland. 

Words About Safety 

Iceland offers opportunities to see 

some of the most volatile and beautiful 

areas on Earth. But nature can be quite 

wild in Iceland. 

Weather: Prepare for a variety 

of weather conditions year-round. 

Especially in the highlands, weather 

can go from benign to threatening rather 

quickly, and temperatures in elevated 

regions can fall well below freezing. 

Bring clothing that allows you to dress 

in layers – a sweater or two, long-sleeve 

shirts, and effective outerwear. 

Roads: Steep, narrow, winding and 

mountainous, many roads are mere 



Grétar Einarsson 

“People think gay people aren’t 

religious,” Grétar says. “But certainly 

many are” His father, a deacon, 

gave Grétar the best of his 

faith. Still, the son walked a secular 

path – until his father’s death. “I 

had an awakening when my father 

died. I returned to my faith.” The 

issue of gay marriage has proven 

diffi cult in Iceland’s church. The 

bishop appointed two priests and 

Grétar to document the national 

discussion. The group traveled to 

small villages to talk and to listen. “I 

wanted people to be talking to a gay 

person,” Grétar says, “not about a 

gay person. I was surprised. Many 

people were very open- minded.” 

Positive results are happening. 

“The church is a family,” he says. 

Everyone will not always agree. 

But I know the best way for me to 

fi nd fulfi llment in my religious life is 

through the church. It is an equally 

important part of who I am.”


gravel paths leading into the interior. 

Drive accordingly. Stay on roads that 

are marked as passable, unless you 

are being led by an experienced guide. 

Interior roads cross rivers without 

bridges, and are suitable only for fourwheel 

drive vehicles. 

Geothermal areas: Like reaching out 

to pet a strange dog and getting bitten, 

some visitors approach a bubbling 

mud hole, and lean down with their 

fi ngers, “just to see if it’s really hot.” 

The resulting scalding burns require 

treatment. Take it as an article of faith. 

The water is dangerously hot, and 

toying with it can be ruinous. Follow 

posted guidelines and walkways. 


A Cold is Never Cool 


Hey Folks, listen up! There is nothing tackier than 

driving around Iceland sneezing and coughing on 

your car-mates because you insisted on wearing your 

sexy muscle T-shirts 24/7 and lowered your resistance. 

However, handy little remedies like Sudafed and the like 

are considered prescription drugs in Iceland. A doctor’s 

visit can take valuable budget resources. And a stop at 

the pharmacy will yield little help. “When we get sick, 

we go to bed,” one pharmacy staff member told me with 

an air of superiority. One doesn’t need to travel with an 

entire medicine cabinet, but it’s the smart traveler who 

packs some cold medicine. If you do start to sniff and 

sneeze you’ll feel better, and your friends will love you. 

Glaciers: Appearances can be de- 

ceiving. Crevasses can be dangerous. 

Serious exploration of a glacier should 

only be undertaken with an experienced 

guide who can provide safe passage and 

the special equipment needed. 

Hiking: Stay on marked footpaths. 

Use the hiking maps available from 

tourist centers in the various regions. 

Let others know your plans and the 

general area you will be in. Stay away 

from the edges of cliffs and riverbanks. 

Loose rocks could cause progress to 

change from “onward” to “downward.” 

The simple use of common sense goes 

a long way to insuring both safety and a 

successful visit to this unique country.


Once upon a time... 

Volcanoes, Vikings, and Vitriol 

Once upon a time – a very, very long time ago – before the Vikings, 

before the Stone Age, even before Adam and Steve discovered 

themselves, tossed off their fig leaves and learned to play, there were 

already “hot” impulses loose in the world. These prehistoric volcanic 

forces were themselves agents of a birthing process. Perhaps nowhere 

on earth is this truer than in the North Atlantic, in the region where 

Iceland, a landmass that didn’t exist 20 million years ago, sits today. 

This country is situated squarely on top of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, a 

10,000-mile-long crack in the ocean floor that marks the dividing line 

between the Eurasian and North American continental plates.

Beginning with the birth of these 

plates, new sea floor has been 

continually created along this 

spreading center, as molten rock rises 

from great depths, forcing the plates 

apart, causing the oceans to grow 

and continents to drift. When the 

earth’s crust fractures, great amounts 

of molten rock escape in the form of 

a volcanic eruption. Over the past 

16 million to 20 million years, these 

outbursts have created an entirely 

volcanic landmass that we now know 

as the modern nation of Iceland. 

Spectacular fissures continue to 

develop on the land to this day, 

spewing curtains of fire and molten 

rock. Some of the magma in these 

volcanic tirades never reaches the 

surface, instead superheating the water 

that lies below. Under great pressure, 

this water rises and breaks through 

where the earth’s surface is thin, 

creating geysers of steaming water, or 

boiling cauldrons of soupy mud. 

The oldest part of the island is the 

West Fjords region in the northwest 

of Iceland. Most of the remaining land 

Once upon a time 17 

three million years. Iceland continues 

to form as the tectonic plates drift 

apart one to two centimeters a year. 

Today’s visitor can easily traipse 

across vast surfaces that solidified in 

the last few centuries. You can even 

singe your feet on the still-steaming 

ground at the northeastern Krafla 

Caldera, a region that originated in 

eruptions in the 1970s-1980s. 

In stark contrast to the fiery volcanic 

origin of Iceland’s bedrock, much of 

the sculpting and modification of the 

land surface has been done by ice. 

Glaciers today cover about 11 percent 

of Iceland, although essentially the 

whole island was under thick glacier 

cover during the Ice Ages. Evidence 

of this fact is seen today in impressive 

landforms carved by flowing 

glaciers, spectacular fjords marking 

the coastline of much of Iceland, 

and long, broad U-shaped valleys, 

hanging valleys, and glacial moraines 

throughout the interior regions. 

During the Ice Ages, all volcanic 

eruptions in Iceland were sub-glacial, 

formed relatively recently, in the last Adam & Steve - just for the fun of it.


and these can still occur today, causing 

massive melting of ice, followed by 

catastrophic floods of meltwater called 

jökulhlaups. 

By the time humans were ready for 

Iceland, Iceland was ready for them 

– at least, as ready as it would ever be. 

The first report of this land occurred 

in 330 BC, when an explorer named 

Pytheas set sail from Marseille to 

discover how far north the world 

would reach. He returned, telling of an 

island that was situated six days north 

of Britain and one day away from the 

end of the world. 

It is the Irish, however, who are 

credited with the “discovery” of 

Iceland, sometime around the year 

800. Irish priests and monks, seeking 

a quiet and removed place for 

meditation and worship, found the 

remote island suited to their needs and 

maintained a presence there well into 

the 9th century. 

What today’s Icelanders refer to as 

the Age of Settlement, however, began 

in 874 with the coming of the Vikings. 

The most vivid account of their arrival 

– the one Icelanders prefer – comes 

from Snorri Sturluson, one of the 

country’s saga writers. According to 

him, those first settlers were some of 

the great chieftains of Norway and 

their loyal followers, fleeing the rule of 

Norway’s first King, Harald Fairhair, 

who made it clear that enemies, their 

allies and families would be killed. It 

is an Icelandic article of faith that a 

man named Ingolfur Arnarson was the 

first settler. A chieftain from Norway, 

he arrived in Iceland in 874 and built 

a farm on a southwestern peninsula 

he named Reykjavik, or Smoky Bay, 

today Iceland’s capital. From then

until the end of the Age of Settlement 

in the year 930, Viking settlers 

continued a migration to Iceland. 

The Icelandic settlers did not form 

any central government for their new 

country. They relied on the powerful 

chieftains, called godar (from the 

word for god), to regulate the separate 

regions, and to meet to solve major 

problems that arose. 

In the year 930, these chieftains 

established the modern world’s oldest 

national assembly, the Althing (central 

parliament). The Althing met for 

two weeks each year, and convened 

the chieftains from throughout the 

country. It was presided over by a 

“Law Speaker,” and a court of more 

than 30 judges, whose job was to 

interpret the law in disputes that 

could not be resolved by the regional 

arbitrators. By the time they reached 

the Althing, disputes often had 


developed into terrible blood feuds. 

It was not unusual for a chieftain to 

show up with many armed men to 

“support” him in his case. If a dispute 

became too heated, or if it appeared 

that one side was about to lose, the 

litigants and their armed supporters 

would march off to the nearby plain, 

undertake a bloody fight, and return 

to the Althing, often with the dispute 

settled and the plain littered with dead 

bodies from both sides. 

To bring dishonor upon one’s 

family, or to suggest the dishonor of 

another’s family, was a crime of high 

magnitude. Extracting revenge in 

these situations was acceptable, and 

acts of revenge were often carried out 

over generations, destroying entire 

families in the process. 

While there is no proscription 

of homosexual acts themselves in 

early Icelandic law, it is clear that 

these folks had the concept, and had 

language to describe and deal with it. 

The word used in the law for an insult 

was níd, and nid included many types 

of slander, including cowardice and 

homosexuality. 

Generally, it carried the implication 

of impropriety, the suggestion that a 

Opposite page: Top, replica of a Viking ship. 

Bottom, plume from the 1996 sub-glacial 

volcanic eruption at Vatnajokull. 

This page: modern interpretation of Viking garb.


man has the inclination to commit an 

“unmanly” act. 

These insults were not only verbal. 

There were instances of men carving 

tréníd (timber níd), totem pole-like 

depictions of an insult. In the case 

of a níd relating to homosexuality, 

the depiction would often be of a 

man engaged sexually with another 

man. The insulted party was always 

portrayed as the passive person. A 

man taking the active role was, after 

all, behaving like a proper man. 

Sometime around the year 1100, 

Grágás, the earliest books of collected 

Icelandic law included this entry: 

Below, Thingvellir, site of the first parliament, 

formed in the year 930. 

“There are three words – should 

exchanges between people ever reach 

such dire limits – which all have 

full outlawry as penalty: if a man 

calls another ragr, (willing to play 

the female part in sexual relations), 

strodinn (homosexual) or sordinn 

(demonstrably homosexually used by 

another man). … What is more, a man 

has the right to kill in retaliation for 

these three words.” 

Outlawry was the most serious form 

of punishment (short of execution). 

A man outlawed was banned from 

participating in the community for 

a number of years, his existence 

dependent on the mercy of others. Full 

outlawry lasted for life. 

There is almost nothing to indicate

the status of lesbianism in this early 

Icelandic culture. The law prohibited 

women from wearing men’s clothing, 

from cutting their hair like a man, 

bearing arms, or behaving like men. 

Scholars have speculated that sexual 

relations between women did exist. 

The early settlers of Iceland practiced 

both polygamy, and the custom of 

“infant exposure” (a sanitized term 

for casting unwanted infants out to the 

elements to die), and girls were more 

often exposed than boys. 

Gunnora Hallakarva, who has 

researched Viking attitudes toward 

homosexuality, writes: “In most societies 

where polygamy is common 

and women are denied sexual outlets 

other than their husband, there is 

frequently lesbian activity to fill not 

only sexual but also emotional needs. 

If a husband had objected to his wife 

having a lesbian relationship, there 

would have been little he could have 

done about it, as she could always 

divorce him if he complained. 

This gave women quite a bit of 

power due to their relative scarcity 

so long as they fulfilled their societal 

roles as wives and mothers.” 

Christianity, 

Chaos, and Catastrophe 

By the year 1000, an issue had 

developed among Icelanders that 

threatened to tear the society in 


two. Most summaries of Iceland’s 

history simply say, “Iceland accepted 

Christianity peacefully in the 

year 1000.” Come on! In a land 

of blood feuds and name-calling, 

could anything of this magnitude 

occur peacefully? It makes for some 

interesting and often amusing reading 

as told in the old sagas: 

“When King Olaf Trygvason had 

been two years king of Norway (A.D. 

997), there was a Saxon priest in his 

house who was called Thangbrand, 

a passionate, ungovernable man, and 

a great man-slayer…The king…gave 

him the errand to go to Iceland, 

and bring that land to the Christian 

faith.” -- Snorri Sturluson, King Olaf 

Trygvason’s Saga, Part II 

Thangbrand arrived in Iceland, and 

met with hostility. Nevertheless, he set 

about delivering up the Word, often 

with some success. From Njal’s Saga: 

“Frightened at the Christians’ success, 

the heathens… hired a sorcerer 

named Hedin to kill Thangbrand. The 

sorcerer…conducted a great sacrifice 

…Thangbrand was riding…and the 

ground suddenly opened up beneath 

his horse. The horse disappeared 

into the earth, but Thangbrand 

miraculously pulled himself to safety. 

Thangbrand’s companion Gudleif 

searched out Hedin the sorcerer and 

killed him with a spear. 

Thangbrand and his followers were


at a feast where a larger group of 

heathen was also gathered. A berserk 

(a savage Norse warrior), named 

Otrygg was also present. 

…Thangbrand declared that he would 

use the berserk to test the power of 

Christianity…‘We shall light three 

fi res,’ he proposed. ‘I shall bless the 

fi rst one, you heathens shall bless 

the second one, and the third one 

shall remain without a blessing. If 

the berserk walks through your fi re 

unharmed, but is afraid of my fi re, then 

you must accept Christianity.’ 

Gest, the leader of the heathens… 

accepted this challenge…The berserk 

walked through the fi re blessed by 

the heathens, but he stopped at the 

Christian-blessed fi re. Agonizing 

with unknown pain, Otrygg raised 

his sword to strike at his foes… 

Thangbrand struck him on the arm 

with a crucifi x…and then ran a sword 

into his chest…Others entered the fray 

and helped to kill the heathen berserk. 

Having thus seen the power of 

Christianity, many leading households 

were now baptized.” --Author 

unknown, Njal’s Saga 

Some power! You gotta love it. 

Thangbrand returned to Norway, 

where he complained bitterly of his 

treatment in Iceland, especially the 

bit about the sorcerer. The king threw 

every Icelander living in Norway into 

the dungeon. 

At the next meeting of the Althing, 

it was a chieftain named Thorgeir 

who was Law Giver. The possibility 

of a pitched battle was ominous. 

At the beginning of the second day, 

Thorgeir told everyone to go to the 

Law-Mound. 

“All agreed, pledging under oath, to 

abide by his judgment. 

“He then proclaimed,…’all Icelanders 

shall henceforth be Christian…We 

shall renounce the worship of idols. 

We shall no longer expose unwanted 

children. We shall no longer eat 

horsemeat. Anyone who does these 

things openly shall be punished with 

outlawry, but no punishment will 

follow if they are done in private.’ 

Within a few years these heathen 

practices were prohibited in private as 

well as in public.” --Author Unknown, 

Njal’s Saga 

Yes, in the end, peaceful. And who 

likes horsemeat anyway? 

Life proceeded more or less normally 

in Iceland for the next 200 years. 

Between 1120 and 1230, the Iceland 

Family Sagas were written, and stand 

today as an enduring literary style, and 

also as the Icelanders’ best glimpse 

into their early history. 

Of course, the church’s view on 

homosexual behavior was added to 

Opposite page: Top and bottom, details from 

early saga manuscripts

The Icelandic Sagas 

The sagas, epic tales written in 

the 12th and 13th centuries, are 

Iceland’s national treasures. They 

tell the stories of families during 

the Age of Settlement, and are 

fi lled with fi ghting, blood feuds, 

revenge, trickery, and tragic fate. 

They vividly portray a people 

struggling to survive in a harsh 

land. Until recently, Icelanders 

accepted the sagas as historical 

fact. Today scholars believe they 

are better viewed as works of 

fi ction, blending historical truth 

with a good measure of invention. 

These works refl ect a society 

governed by strict codes of 

behavior. Women were relegated 

to the home, weaving, and rearing 

children. The resilient women of 

the sagas, however, did not lack 

infl uence in shaping their world. 

When they needed to, they resorted 

to threat and insult 

to force their men 

to action, or simply 

took action – and 

its consequences 

–themselves. 

Women who want 

to read one of the 

tales today might 


choose The Saga of the People of 

Laxardal, whose main character is 

a woman. Some scholars believe a 

woman wrote it. 

Men had to adhere to rigid 

masculine codes of honor and 

behavior: courage, aggression, 

loyalty, and the absolute defense 

of family. For today’s men, Njal’s 

Saga is a good choice for reading, 

as it is centrally concerned with 

the true nature of manhood, and 

includes the ritualized nids and 

their homosexual symbolism. 

These sagas bind the modern 

Icelanders to their roots. Says 

contemporary Icelandic writer 

Hallgrímur Helgason, “They are 

our history, genealogy, geology, 

geography, anthropology, mythology, 

law and religion, all in one. 

We might not wholly believe their 

every word, but we do believe in 

them. The sagas are our Bible. But 

above all they are good stories.”


the cultural stew. In a volume titled 

The Icelandic Homily Book, compiled 

sometime around the year 1200, 

one of the included sermons speaks 

of “grave sins,” among them, “the 

appalling secret sins perpetrated by 

men who respect men no more than 

women, or violate quadrupeds.” They 

had such a wonderful way with words. 

It must’ve gotten lonely out there with 

all of those horses and sheep! 

The years from 1220 to 1262 are 

called the “Age of the Sturlungs” 

during which the authority of the 

Althing all but collapsed. This 

period is generally regarded as the 

Decline of the Commonwealth, 

culminating in a series of feuds so 

bloody and destructive that in 1262 

Norway stepped in and established 

overlordship over Iceland. The great 

golden age was done, and Iceland 

entered a centuries-long decline. 

Poor harvests, epidemics, natural 

disasters, and the oppression by the 

Norwegian and Danish governments 

(which enforced, among other things, 

a trade monopoly with Iceland), 

pulled Iceland downward. Iceland 

had no merchant fleet, and was 

totally dependent on Norway and 

later Denmark for whatever trade 

occurred. (The rule of Iceland passed 

to Denmark in 1397.) 

The volcano Hekla erupted savagely 

in 1389, bringing death and ruination 

to its surroundings. The plague of 

the Black Death occurred in Iceland 

from 1402-1404. The Danish kings 

enforced the Reformation of the 

church in 1551, ending Catholicism in 

Iceland, and taking its wealth. Further 

shortages of food came about due the 

“Little Ice Age” in the 16th and 17th 

centuries. 

During the 17th and 18th centuries 

a series of earthquakes and volcanic 

eruptions continued to take their 

toll on the well-being of Iceland’s 

people. In 1627, three thousand 

Barbary Pirates pillaged the island, 

kidnapping 242 people. A smallpox 

epidemic from 1707-1709 killed onethird 

of the people. Such a series of 

catastrophes could bring larger nations 

to their knees. The rugged Icelanders, 

however, marshaled onward. 

The greatest volcanic eruption in 

the recorded history of humankind 

The volcano Hekla erupted savagely in 1389, 

bringing death and ruination to its surroundings.

occurred in Iceland in 1783, producing 

the largest lava flow ever, and sending 

toxic gasses and particles as far away 

as Syria. The poisons killed threequarters 

of Iceland’s livestock and 

destroyed huge areas of farmland, 

contributing to a famine that killed 

a quarter of the populace. The 

population of Iceland in the year 1800 

was only 38,000, half of what it was 

in the year 1100. The final insult of 

Iceland’s dark centuries came in 1800 

when the Danes abolished Iceland’s 

most beloved institution, the Althing. 

It is small wonder that when 

Icelanders speak of their history they 

extol their origins, and skip neatly to 

the 19th century when life, little by 

little, began to improve. 

Fulmination, 

Flight,and Freedom 

While the Victorian era was 

beginning in Great Britain, Iceland 

was awakening to a new sense of 

nationalism. New currents brought 

Romanticism to the island. The 

first secular paintings in Iceland 

appeared in the 19th century, as did 

the first modern novels. Still, the 

old entrenched institutional norms 

continued to discourage urban growth. 

The fishing industry held the most 

potential for raising Iceland from 

its agrarian poverty, but it remained 

a seasonal activity practiced by 


An early 19th century Icelandic farm. 

farmers during the winter months. 

And trade restrictions imposed by 

Denmark did nothing to help the 

still-dismal economic situation of 

most Icelanders. Even later in the 

century, as things slowly began to 

improve, overpopulation, starvation, 

and disease would cause some 15,000 

Icelanders (about 15 percent of the 

population) to take flight, immigrating 

to North America between the years 

1855 and 1914. 

As a fulminating pressure mounted 

for greater Icelandic independence, 

Denmark allowed the reestablishment 

of the Althing as a consulting body 

in 1845. Denmark itself became a 

constitutional monarchy in 1848, 

creating a more promising atmosphere 

in which the negotiations of the 

next decades would take place. By 

this time, a young man named Jon


Sigurdsson had begun his singleminded 

campaign to gain Iceland the 

right to self-determination in its own 

affairs. Born in Iceland, Sigurdsson 

went to Copenhagen to study in 

1833. His studies became completely 

overshadowed by his work for 

Iceland’s independence. 

An important step in that process 

came in 1854, when Denmark granted 

Iceland the complete right to free 

foreign trade. This not only increased 

Iceland’s ability to obtain needed 

foreign goods, but also helped expose 

citizens to the ideas and influences of 

the Industrial Revolution, which was 

in full-swing in the rest of Europe. 

In 1860, only three percent of the 

population lived in towns. By 1890, 

that would quadruple. 

In 1904 Iceland was granted home 

rule with a continuing union with 

Denmark under its king. After more 

than 25 years of lobbying, women 

over 40 gained voting rights in 1915, 

and a few years later these were 

extended to all adult women. Iceland 

became completely independent 

through the enactment of the Act of 

Union between the two countries on 

December 1, 1918. Both were now 

independent states sharing the same 

monarch. Denmark continued to 

conduct Iceland’s foreign policy, but 

only as directed by Iceland, which had 

no foreign service at the time. 

Jon Sigurdsson 

There would be but one last glitch 

in the story of Iceland’s independence 

movement. During World War II, 

Denmark was occupied by Nazi 

Germany. To prevent the Germans 

from taking over Iceland, the British 

assumed the defense of the island in 

1940. The Americans replaced them 

in 1941. Cut off from Denmark, the 

Althing passed two resolutions. Royal 

power was transferred to the cabinet in 

Reykjavík, and Iceland took charge of 

the conduct of its foreign affairs. 

The union with Denmark was 

formally terminated on June 16, 

1944, and the Republic of Iceland 

was inaugurated the next day at 

Thingvellir, the site of the original 

Althing. The long struggle was over.

Fishing, 

Fractiousness, and Fun 

Since World War II, Iceland, in 

an astonishingly short time, has 

transformed itself into one of the most 

modern and prosperous countries in 

the world. In 1949, Iceland joined 

NATO, and a permanent base was 

established at Keflavik. The influx of 

thousands of American soldiers was a 

boon to the local economy. 

The Icelandic government made a 

major commitment to modernizing 

the country’s fishing fleet, and Iceland 

was able to reap the economic benefits 

of the resources offshore. Today, fish 

account for about 78 percent of all 

exports from Iceland. 

As the economy grew, and job 

opportunities increased in and 

around the capital, Icelanders flocked 

to Reykjavik; suburbs sprang up 


seemingly overnight. More than half 

the nation’s 280,000 citizens now live 

in greater Reykjavik. 

The most excitement and tension 

in Iceland in the past half-century 

came with what are known as The 

Cod Wars, a years-long conflict with 

Great Britain over fishing limits off 

the coast of Iceland. The first occurred 

in 1958, when Iceland extended its 

“national waters” from four miles to 

12 miles. Britain was unable to stop 

this extension. 

In 1972, Iceland extended its waters 

to 50 miles. Another conflict ensued, 

which ended with an agreement 

between the two countries that limited 

British fishing within the 50-mile limit. 

In November, 1975, when Iceland 

Illustration from a children’s book of a Reykjavik 

street, ca. 1908.



Thorir “Thor” Björnsson 

World War II and the years 

following hold strong memories 

for Thor. With the infl ux of British 

and American soldiers, Reykjavik 

had never been so exciting. The 

horde of young men in uniform 

tantalized the teenager. His eyes 

sparkle as he recalls it. “The Hotel 

Borg was semi-gay then,” he says. 

“They had a ‘noon bar’ open early 

afternoons. It attracted a bohemian 

crowd, and you could always meet 

men. It really was a pick-up place.” 

Thor met a man who had written 

a play for Marlene Dietrich, and 

another who possessed the most 

impeccable Mafi a connections. 

And certainly many more! “There 

“Once, 

almost two 

planeloads of 

gay soldiers 

were thrown 

out of the 

country.” 

were three or four cafes where you 

could discreetly meet guys. And 

down near the harbor there was a 

pissoire that was used for cruising 

during the war. Once the NATO 

base came, there were parties 

every weekend. Scandalous, some 

of them,” He smiles slyly. Most 

of the gay men in those years 

led double lives. “I knew ten 

Icelandic gay men during and just 

after the war and eight of them 

were married. At different times 

of his life, Thor lived in Boston, 

served in the Canadian Army, 

and resided in the UK. Today, he 

lives in Reykjavik, surrounded 

by a community of friends. He 

enjoys hosting dinner parties and 

offering his famous killer cocktail 

– half vodka, half sweet vermouth, 

served thoroughly chilled, no ice. 

Refi lls when needed. His friends 

say you haven’t experienced a 

hangover until you’ve gotten one 

from Thor’s concoction. Within the 

camaraderie, Thor enjoys telling 

his stories. No subject is ignored if 

it brings laughter. He tells that at 

one time it was necessary to have 

a testicle removed. The surgeon 

told him it could be replaced with 

a plastic facsimile. “I said I would 

have nothing unless it was made of 

fi ne Edinburgh crystal,.”he grins. 

The replacement never occurred.

extended the limit to 200 miles, the 

two nations nearly went to full-blown 

war. Iceland’s Coast Guard vessels 

rammed British trawlers and sliced 

their nets. Iceland threatened to shut 

down the NATO base at Kefl avik. 

NATO mediated, and agreement to 

end the confl ict came in June 1976. 

A more glorious moment came on 

the heels of one of the worst moments 

in the country’s history. In April 

2009 voters elected the world’s fi rst 

openly lesbian head of state. Jóhanna 

Sigurðardóttir was elected Prime 

Minister in the aftermath of Iceland’s 

most serious economic meltdown 

ever. All three of the country’s major 

banks collapsed in October, 2008, 

leaving this small nation in a state of 

economic peril and uncertainty. Still in 

Above: More than half the country’s population 

lives in thoroughly modern Reykjavik. 

Below: Fish account for 78 percent of Iceland’s 

exports today. 


the very early stages of recovery, the 

resilient Icelanders are determined to 

rebuild their economy and retain their 

core values and unique culture. 

As Iceland looks to the future, it does 

so as a thoroughly modern nation. It 

enjoys the highest life expectancy Its 

citizens own more mobile phones per 

capita than any other country, and 78 

percent have access to the Internet. 

Reykjavik is gaining a reputation 

for its nightlife (more than 50 clubs 

nearly levitate on Friday and Saturday 

nights), and the variety and quality of 

its restaurants can compete with any 

world-class city. In the past decade, as 

travel to Iceland has increased, people 

from around the globe have discovered 

this country’s unique combination of 

awesome nature and a modern, stylish 

culture that still treasures its past.


Plentiful choices 

Much more than shark meat and lamb testicles 

Being comfortable and feeling secure in new surroundings first depends 

on knowing where you are going to plug in the hairdryer, stash the 

condoms, hang that fabulous shirt (or the leather jacket), and rest at the 

end of the day. You also want to know that the staple of the local diet is 

not some dreaded food from your list of food phobias (although it should 

be mentioned that putrefied shark meat and lamb testicles are available 

in Iceland if you have the requisite courage to eat them). The following 

pages should put you at ease even before you arrive in Iceland. The 

hotels, restaurants, and cafes of Reykjavik offer enough choices for even 

the pickiest among us.

ACCOMMODATION 

Reykjavik is certainly not lacking in 

choices for accommodation to suit both 

the open budget and the constrained. 

Hostels, guesthouses, hotels, and 

apartment hotels are here in abundance. 

Nevertheless, if you visit in the summer, 

advance booking of at least a month is 

advised, especially at the smaller hotels 

and at the gay-owned establishments. 

Pricing Guide: 

$$$$: More than ISK 25,000 

$$$: ISK 17,501-25,000 

$$: ISK 12,501-17.500 

$: Under ISK 12,500 

Gay-Owned/Managed 

Accommodation 

$$ Felicia’s Flat 

Skólavördustígur 35, Tel: 354 552 3622 

Website: www.dagfinnur.is/felicia 

Gudbjörg and her partner Juliette 

purchased the downstairs flat in their 

1909 building in the summer of 2000, 

began renting it to visitors. The spacious 

living room is comfortably furnished, 

and equipped with cable TV and a 

computer providing 24/7 Internet access. 

Two bedrooms accommodate up to four 

people, and a fully equipped kitchen and 

modern bathroom complete the layout. 

Just a few minutes walk from the center. 

Plentiful Choices 31 

For short stays, book one or two months 

in advance. For stays of a week or more, 

book three months in advance. Online 

booking available. 

$$-$$$ Hotel Phoenix 

Laugavegur 140, Tel: 354 511 5002 

Website: www.phoenix.is 

The Phoenix is an elegant and quiet 

nine-room hotel in the heart of the 

city, owned by gay Icelanders who 

know their country inside out and 

who are more than happy to share 

their knowledge. They’ll make your 

excursion and restaurant bookings, 

and can often ferret out special deals. 

The hotel is non-smoking. Mini bar, 

wi-fi Internet, and free local phone 

calls. Online booking available. 

$$ - $$$$ House of the Spirits 

Gardastraeti 8, Tel: 354 698 3526 

Website: www.geocities.com/ 

houseofspirits101 

Hosts Gunnar and Andrés offer 

elegant studio and larger apartments 

in the heart of the city. Guests are in 

expert hands. Gunnar is a professor. 

and is also a professional touristguide. 

Andrés has a background 

in international communications, 

economics and tourism. The studio 

apartments accomodate one and 

two people. Larger apartments can 

accomodate up to six comfortably. 

Online booking available.


Plentiful Choices 33


$$ - $$$ Room With a View 

Laugavegur 18, Tel: 354 896 2559 

Website: www.roomwithaview.is 

As Harvey Milk was the Mayor of 

Castro Street, Árni Einarsson could 

be called the Mayor of Laugavegur. 

He’s one of those people who knows 

everybody and is never the last one to 

hear news. He opened Room With a 

View nearly a decade ago. He sold it a 

year ago but continues to manage the 

day-to-day operations. There are 22 

apartments, sleeping anywhere from one 

or two people, up to seven in the larger 

apartments. All are newly renovated, 

Northern lights over the city of Reykjavik 

decorated in Scandinavian modern, and 

offer fully equipped kitchens. The top 

floor apartments and two of the fifth 

floor suites include access to the balcony 

Jacuzzi! Want to know the latest on the 

gay scene? Arni and his partner Omar are 

happy to provide needed guidance and 

direction. Online booking available. 

Large Hotels 

$$$ Hotel Borg 

Posthusstraeti 11, Tel: 354 551 1440 

Website: www.hotelborg.is 

The grande dame of Reykjavik’s 

hotels, this art deco building sits right 

on Austurvollur Square. Try to book a

oom in the more elegant older section 

to experience the impact of its charm.. 

Excellent on-site restaurant. NB: An 

enforced “no visitor” policy after 

10:30 pm. Online booking available. 

$$ - $$$ Fosshotel Baron 

Barónsstígur 2-4, Tel: 354 552 4488. 

Website: www.fosshotel.is 

Located just off Laugavegur, and near 

the shore of the bay, this hotel offers 

several options for accommodation. 

Cozy top-floor economy rooms are 

for the budget-minded. The hotel’s 

comfortable standard rooms offer 

more space and comfort. Fosshotel 

Baron also offers 17 studios plus 8 onebedroom 

apartments, and 6 two-bedroom 

apartments, all with cooking facilities. 

Internet access in the lobby. Online 


$$$ - $$$$ Hilton Reykjavik 

Nordica Hotel 

Sudurlandsbraut 2, Tel: 354 444 5000 

Website: www.icehotel.is 

This is the flagship hotel of the 

Icelandair group. Formerly the Hotel 

Esja, Icelandair took the building 

down to its skeleton and created an 

entirely new hotel, with luxury rooms 

and a spa and exercise center. The 

rooms feature crisp Scandinavian 

décor, and all the amenities you have 

come to associate with a first-class 

hotel. Continental cuisine is offered in 


the elegant five-star Vox Restaurant, 

and one can happily retire to the 

comfortable bar for an after-dinner 

drink. NB: The smart traveler will 

ask for a room overlooking the bay 

and Mt. Esja. Breathtaking! Online 


$$$ LoftLeidir Hotel 

Hlídarfótur, at the Reykjavik Airport 

Tel: 354 444 4500 

Website: www.icehotel.is 

This is another of the Icelandair 

properties, located on the edge of the 

city center next to the domestic airport. 

A thoroughly modern full-service hotel, 

with pool and fitness center. If you are 

traveling to Iceland on an organized tour, 

or are taking advantage of an Icelandair 

flight and hotel package, you may be 

staying here. Online booking available. 

$$$ - $$$$ Radisson SAS Saga Hotel 

Hagatorg, at Iceland University 

Tel: 354 525 9900 

Website: www.Radissonsas.com. 

Located on the grounds of the University 

of Iceland, a short walk past the lake 

to the city center. A full service hotel 

with two restaurants, exercise center, 

spa, hairstylist, and rooms set aside for 

non-smokers, people with allergies, and 

people with disabilities. Hotel guests 

have free access to the Vesturbaejarlaug 

swimming center and its gay-popular 

sauna facility. Online booking available.


Small Hotels 

$$$ Fosshotel Lind 

Raudarstigur 18, Tel: 354 562 3350 

Website: www.fosshotel.is 

One of the Reykjavik hotels preferred 

by Icelanders when they are visiting 

the city. Situated less than a minute’s 

walk from the top of Laugavegur and 

just a short stroll from the Reykjavik 

Municipal art museum, this 56-room 

hotel is well-located for those who want 

a full-service hotel and some peace and 

quiet. Internet access in the lobby. Home 

to the romantic Carpe Diem restaurant. 

Online booking available. 

$$$ Hotel Klopp 

Klapparstigur 26, Tel: 354 511 6062 

Website: www.centerhotels.is 

On a summer morning, it is very 

clear from a quick scan of the 

breakfast room that European gays 

and lesbians fi nd this a great place to 

stay. Natural colors and polished wood 

fl oors set the tone for this comfortable 

establishment of 36 rooms. Located 

just a block off Laugavegur, all that 

Reykjavik offers is just minutes away. 


$$$ Hotel Leiffur Eiriksson 

Skólavördustígur 45, Tel: 354.562.08.00 

Website: www.hotelleifur.is 

Located directly across from the 

hilltop Hallgrimskirkja, this 47-room 

hotel offers charm and quiet, while still 

just a quick downhill trot to the center. 

A continental breakfast buffet is served 

from 7-10. Sandwiches and soft drinks 

are available from the lobby 24/7. All 

rooms with private bath, phone and TV. 


$$$ - $$$$ Hotel Odinsve 

Odinstorg, Tel: 354 511 6200 

Website: www.hotelodinsve.is 

The hotel name means “the dwelling 

of Ódin,” who was the highest of the 

gods. Pastel colors, natural wood fl oors, 

and plenty of windows all contribute to 

the cheerful atmosphere of the 30 guest 

rooms. Located in a quiet residential 

section of the city center, no more than a 

fi ve-minute walk from anything you want 

to see or do. Online booking available. 

Something Different 

$$$ Hóll Cottage 

Grjótagata 12, Tel: 354 551 2044 

Website: www.simnet.is/hol 

If you’re seeking a truly romantic 

getaway, this 19th century cottage offers 

both charm and modern convenience. 

Hóll was built in 1895 and is a perfectly 

preserved example of a turn of the 

century Icelandic home. Period furniture 

from the 19th-century has been employed 

throughout the cottage. Also ideal for 

groups, as the cottage can sleep up to 

six people. Minimum stay: two nights.

Minimum charge: as for three people. 

Online booking available by e-mail only, 

at newton@simnet.is. 

$ Kidafell Farm and Guesthouse 

Kjos, 270 Mosfellbaer, 

Tel.: 354 566 6096 

Website: www.dagfi nnur.is/kidafell/index 

If you have a rental car and want an 

entirely different kind of experience, 

spend a night or two just 38 km (about 

a 30-minute drive), outside of Reykjavik 

at this typical Icelandic Horse farm. Visit 

between June and September, and you 

can have the added experience of riding 

an Icelandic horse along the nearby fjord. 

A family-owned enterprise; it’s the gay 

sibling who oversees the day-to-day 

operations. Breakfast included. Dinner 


available. Online booking available by 

e-mail only, at kidafell@dagfi nnur.is 

Hostels 


Weights and pleasures 

$ Icelandic Youth Hostel Association 

Sundlaugavegi 34, Tel: 354 553 8110 

Website: www.hostel.is 

The hostel is open to people of all ages, 

offering budget accommodation.You 

won’t spend more than ISK 2600 a night 

(less if you are a member of Hosteling 

International, a group you can join before 

leaving home). Reservations are advised. 

Drop-off by FlyBus from the airport. is 

available. A 15-minute bus ride takes you 

to the center of Reykjavik. There are 32 

other hostels located throughout Iceland. 


Guess what! You don’t have to stay at the Hilton Nordica Hotel to use the 

Nordica Spa and Exercise Center! There’s no question, at least one of your 

workouts should happen here. Professional trainers are always available. 

The center offers both exercise machines and free weights. There are three 

Jacuzzis, two steam rooms and an outdoor Nordic dry sauna to relax in 

as well. Better yet get a full massage, facial treatment, or even an aroma 

therapy session (I did one myself), in one of the individual treatment rooms. 

Does it cost? Sure it does. Call for the general day rate in effect during 

your stay. Day packages start at 12,500 ISK. After all, you are on vacation, 

aren’t you? Website: www.nordicaspa.is. Tel: 444 5090.


RESTAURANTS 

Icelandic lamb, and fish from the North 

Atlantic and Iceland’s rivers are the 

backbone of the nation’s diet. Both are 

in abundance in almost every restaurant 

in Reykjavik. You haven’t truly eaten 

in Iceland until you’ve enjoyed the 

seafood, from lobster to salmon and 

trout. Likewise for the lamb, guaranteed 

to be like no other you have eaten. 

Restaurants compete by having their 

chefs continually “design” recipes for 

these foods, providing the visitor with an 

array of tastes, all wonderful variations 

on a tasty theme. 

Pricing Guide: 

$$$$: Over 2800 ISK 

$$: ISK 1500 – 2800 

$: Under ISK 1500 

Gay owned 

$ - $$ Jómfrúin 

Laekjargata 4, Tel: 551 0100 

The open-faced Danish sandwich is 

more than a meal; it’s an art. Chefs in 

Denmark must undergo an intensive 

training before they are allowed to 

offer them on the menu. This restaurant 

provides the opportunity to enjoy some 

of the best of these Danish treats you will 

find in or out of Denmark. There’s often 

an expanding table of gay men at noon 

for Sunday brunch. 

$$$ Humarhúsid 

(The Lobster House) 

Amtmannsstígur 1, Tel: 561 3303 

One of the three owners is gay at this, 

what many locals consider to be the best 

restaurant in the city. The specialty is 

lobster, although other delectable items 

are also on the menu, even, God forbid, 

some meat! Located in an elegantly 

furnished 19th-century building. The 

overall experience here is simply 

sumptuous. 

Iceland Cuisine 

$$$ Carpe Diem 

Raudarárstígur 18, Tel: 552 4555 

Website: www.carpediem.is 

Seize the day by seizing your travel 

buddy, and head to this romantic 

restaurant that places great emphasis

on fresh Icelandic fish and lamb dishes 

created with an international flair.This is 

a favorite for locals. Located in a quiet 

neighborhood at the Fosshotel Lind. 

$$$ Einar Ben 

Ingólfstorg 101, Tel: 511 5090 

Website: www.einarben.is 

A restaurant situated in the older 

section of Reykjavik’s mid-town, close 

to the harbor. Both Icelandic specialties 

and international offerings here, all to be 

enjoyed in an atmosphere accentuated by 

chandeliers, heavy red drapes, and soft 

lighting. Some have said it’s like a photo 

from Gloria Swanson’s personal family 

photo album! 


$$$ Laekjarbrekka 

Bankastraeti 2, Tel: 551 4430 

Website: www.laekjarbrekka.is 

Charm, charm, and more charm. This 

classic Icelandic restaurant occupies one 

of the city’s oldest houses, built in 1834. 

Specializing in traditional Icelandic fare, 

including seafood and Icelandic lamb. 

Special meals include the Puffin Party 

and Lobster feast. 

$$$ Naustid 

Vesturgata 6-8, Tel: 552 3030 

Celebrating its 50th birthday in 2004, 

Naustid boasts having the longest history 

of all Icelandic restaurants. They must be 

doing something right with their more 

than 80 menu items. Today, its charming 

decor, romantic atmosphere, outstanding 

meals, and reputation for unforgettable 

evenings have made Naustid a part of 

Iceland’s cultural heritage. 

$$$ Tveir Fiskar 

Geirsgata 9, Tel: 511-3474 

Website: www.restaurant.is 

Chef Gissur Gudmundsson, president 

of the Nordic Chefs Association and 

chef Tveir Fiskar, Iceland’s Chef of the 

Year in 2003, are rightfully proud of 

this successful establishment. The house 

specialty here, always on the menu, is 

bouillabaisse, made from a southern 

French recipe. You’ll find a wide choice 

of seafood entrees, as well as selected 

lamb, beef, and chicken dishes.


$$$ Vid Tjörnina 

Templarasund 3, Tel: 551 8666 

Website: www.islandia.is/~vidtjornina 

The most novel fi sh restaurant in 

Iceland. The owner, Chef Runar 

Marvinsson, is known for innovative 

fi sh dishes. The tantalizing menu 

has made this restaurant a magnet 

for both savvy locals and visitors.. 

Italian 

$$$ Caruso 

Thingholtsstraeti 1, Tel: 562-7335 

Website: www.Caruso.is 

This beautiful three-story building 

in the middle of downtown Reykjavik 

serves fabulous food accompanied by 

live music. Celebrate at the brandy 

bar after dining on fresh Italian fare. 

Always a superb experience. 

$$ -$$$ Hornid 

Hafnarstraeti 15, Tel: 551 3340 

Website: www.hornid.is 

A warm and open Italian bistro where 

you dine in a forest of potted plants 

and natural wooden architecture. Pizza, 

pasta and other familiar staples won’t 

necessarily surprise you, but the lamb 

steak and seafood soup just might. 

$$ - $$$ Ítalía 

Laugavegur 11, Tel: 552 4630 

The people of Reykjavik like this 

restaurant because they feel it always 

gives good value for money. Quaint, 

cozy surroundings complement the good 

sturdy Italian fare from pizza to pasta and 

more elaborate entrees. 

$$ - $$$ La Primavera 

Austurstraeti 9. Tel: 561 8555. 

Website: www.laprimavera.is. 

Located in the middle of the hubub, this 

is a contemporary restaurant that has its 

most notable infl uences from Northern 

Italian cooking and Icelandic produce. 

The menu features homemade pasta, 

risotto, gnochi, polenta, fi sh, poultry, and 

meat. Wine list is exclusively Italian. 

Steakhouses 

$$$ Argentína Steakhouse 

Barónsstígur 11. Tel: 551 9555. 

Website: www.argentina.is 

A delicious steak grilled over an open 

fi re! Fabulous! Take a short stroll from 

downtown and dine with your fellow 

carnivores. Great atmosphere, superb 

food. All you supply is your date. 

$$$ Raudará 

(Red River Steakhouse) 

Raudarárstígur 39. Tel: 562 6766. 

Website: www.raudara.is. 

One of the best you’ll fi nd anywhere. 

Located in what was once an old brewery, 

this restaurant has been in operation only 

since 1997. A consistently popular place 

to dine,.Fab seafood also on the menu.

Vegetarian 

$ - $$ A naestu grösum 

Laugavegur 20b, Tel: 552 8410 

Website: www.anaestugrosum.is 

The menu changes often, insuring 

fresh and varied choices. Sandwiches, 

soups, salads and hearty entrees. Veganfriendly. 

A bright cheerful atmosphere 

and prices that won’t stun. 

$ - $$ Gardurinn 

Klapparstígur 37, Tel. 561 2345 

A cozy spot with great atmosphere, run 

by the followers of Sri Chinmoy. Open 

only from lunch until 5 or 6 pm. The 

menu changes daily with just one choice 

of entrée with salad and brown rice. 

Sometimes vegan, sometimes not. 

$ - $$ Graenn Kostur 

Skólavördustígur 8b, Tel: 552 2028 

Like it spicy? This popular place is happy 

to oblige, while offers low-cost, vegetarian 

cuisine. The food here is made without 

yeast, sugar, bleached fl our, eggs or milk. 

Eat in or take it out. 

$ - $$ Salatbarinn Hjá Eika 

Pósthússtraeti 13. Tel: 562 7830. 

Located two blocks from the city’s 

harbor, you’ll keep your heart healthy 

with cardio-friendly fresh vegetarian 

delights, perfect for keeping you in shape 

for Icelandic hiking and sight-seeing. 

Stop in for the special lunch buffet. 



Glenn Barkan and 

Thorhallur (Thor) Vilhjalmsson 

They met in California. Thor (left 

in photo), an Icelander, was writer 

Danielle Steel’s butler. Glenn was 

helping care for his grandmother. 

“We knew right away we would 

live together,” Glenn recalls. “My 

94 year old grandmother urged me 

to follow my life. She sent me off 

to Iceland where we could marry 

and live together legally.” Glenn 

cleaned apartments and worked in 

a spot called Café Babalú. Soon, 

the opportunity arose to purchase 

the café. “I bought it,” he says. 

And it turns out I have a knack for 

the business. I’m actually a decent 

baker.” Thor, a professional 

marketing consultant can often be 

found alongside Glenn at the café. 

Both remain optimistic in the face 

of Iceland’s economic distress. 

“Yes, Iceland has been knocked out 

of balance,” Thor says. “But I feel 

like the good way of being Icelandic 

has returned. Less greedy. More 

relaxed. More personal.”


Cafés, Bistros and Bars 

Reykjavik enjoys a real café society. You’ll fi nd plenty of comfortable spots in which 

to take a break, enjoy Icelandic coffee, drink a beer, or grab a quick meal. These 

will please the budget-conscious compared to the more formal restaurants.They range 

from cozy and intimate to large and sleek. Many at night are the party hot spots. 

Kaffi Babalu, Skólavörðustígur 22-A. Tel: 555 8845. Go early in the day or there will 

be no New York cheesecake left! Baked by Glenn, the gay owner and a New Yorker 

himself, that is but one of the many treats at this eclectic, homey café. On the weekend 

you’ll often fi nd live music. Take coffee on the terrace when weather is balmy. 

Dillon Bar, Laugavegur 30. Tel. 511 2400. Comfy as you can get on the main 

shopping street, the ear is as important as the stomach at this café, with its music 

library brimming over with Jazz, Rock, and Drum and Bass. Great spot for a midafternoon 

pint. A weekend hot nightspot. Popular with lesbians during the day. 

Glaetan, Laugavegur 19. Tel; 511 1180 A quiet, inviting, and warm coffee shop in the 

bustle of the main shopping street in Reykjavík, A nice stop for a cup of Americano, 

hot chocolate, even a quiche. Sandwiches and light fare also available. 

Café Paris, Austurstraeti 14. Tel: 551 1020. For a taste of Paris in the far north, stop 

here for anything from a cup of coffee to a light meal. Wonderful pastries and sweets. 

Your gaydar can go off often here. Window seats let you people-watch, and in summer 

there is outdoor seating on balmier days. 

Prikid, Bankastraeti 12. Tel: 551 3366. Another 

popular watering hole serving excellent coffee, 

light fare, beer, wine, hard liquor. Located just at 

the foot of the main shopping street. On weekends 

it hosts a crowd of young party-mood Icelanders. 

Cafe Solon, Bankastræti 7a. Tel: 562 3232 

Recently popular with Iceland’s ruinous banking 

crowd, this remains a popular stylish cafe with 

a good but expensive menu On weekends the 

place is a popular nightclub,



Sometimes smaller is better 

Hotdogs in Iceland are something to take seriously. Ask Bill Clinton. He 

stopped for one with the works at Bæjarins Bestu Pylsur (literally, the 

Best Hot Dog in Town), located on Posthusstraeti at Tryggvagata, near 

the harbor. This tiny outpost is the most famous hot dog spot in Reykjavík 

(some claim it’s the best in all Europe), and has been operating since 1937, 

offering a dog of good quality meat, typically sprinkled with fried sweet 

onions and spiced with Remolaði (sweet relish mayo sauce), which makes 

up for a big part of its unique fl avors. 

You should not deprive yourself of 

these tasty, quick and cheap treats. 

Icelanders are devoted to them and 

stand in line at this tiny stand in all 

sorts of weather. Also, pylsur (hot 

dogs) will be part of your diet when 

you take part in the all-night weekend 

club tour. They suffi ce as a quick bite 

and balast after long hours of heavy, 

expensive, and boisterous drinking. 

Book Café, Laugavegur 18. Tel. 552 3740. Upstairs at the MM Bookstore, this 

cozy, unpretentious spot serves great quiche, salads, and other light fare, as well as 

delightful cakes and pastries, with no intellectual pretense! 

Sufi stinn at IĐA, Lækjargotu 2A. Tel: 511 5001. Upstairs from the chic book and gift 

shop, this sleek airy space is another good place to stop and let the world spin on for a 

while. Coffee pastries and light food. 

Vegamót, Vegamótastígur 4. Tel: 511 3040. A two-fl oor bistro, café, and bar that 

is very popular for lunch and supper. A really modern, funky feel to it - cosy corners, 

lots of low-lights with a clubby twist. Food is excellent. A straight dance club at night.


Reykjavik’s best 

A cool capital 

Reykjavik is a city that is best explored on foot and at a leisurely pace. 

There’s simply no need to make a “to-do list” each morning and depart 

your hotel on a frantic dash to go there, do that, see those, and cruise 

them. In a city where the bustling harbor is just four blocks from the 

Parliament building, you hardly ever have the feeling that you are in 

a national capital. In fact, there can be times when you feel that you 

are in an overgrown fishing town. Your days should be relaxed – see a 

few sights, shop, stop for a light lunch, take a swim in a thermal pool, 

revitalize yourself in a traditional hot pot, test your gaydar in a café over 

pastry and coffee, freshen up at the hotel, and enjoy an Icelandic dinner.

There are several ways to gain that allimportant 

first impression of the city. 

Many choose to begin by climbing the hill 

in the center of town to Hallgrimskirkja, 

Reykjavik’s highest and most imposing 

structure. The exterior was designed 

to resemble the basalt lava that is 

common in much of Iceland. Inside, the 

spare and light-filled space has its own 

quiet elegance. It is the 225-foot tower, 

however, that is the main attraction here. 

For ISK 400, an elevator will take you to 

the top, where you can see the city spread 

out before you, its rooftops a crazy quilt 

of color. On clear days, the vista stretches 

northwest to the Snaefellsnesjokull 

(Snaefellsnes glacier). The tower is open 

daily, 10 am - 6 pm. 

Another good way to get an overview 

of the capital is to take a Reykjavik 

City Tour by bus. These guided trips last 

approximately three hours, and allow you 

to see both the city’s past and present, and 

to gain a sense of its scale. Two companies 

offer these regularly scheduled tours: 

Iceland Excursions (Tel: 540 1313), and 

Reykjavik Excursions (Tel: 562 1011). 

Both offer free pick-up at your hotel. 

One of the biggest favors you can 

do yourself is to make an early stop at 

the Reykjavik Tourist Information 

Center (see page 10). Maps of the city, 

printed walking tours, and brochures on 

museums and activities are all assembled 

and well organized. The staff is helpful, 

knowledgeable, and very gay-friendly. 

Reykjavik’s Best 45 

This is also the place to purchase the 

valuable, money-saving Reykjavik 

Welcome Card, which offers a variety of 

discounts and free admissions. 

Sooner or later, native and visitor alike 

find themselves drawn to Tjornin, the 

pond that sits at Reykjavik’s heart. Here, 

feeding the ducks is almost a civic duty. 

Perched on the edge of the pond is 

Reykjavik’s sleek modern City Hall, 

nerve center of the capital’s government. 

The ground floor is open every day of the 

week, and is worth a visit to see the large 

topographical model of Iceland, especially 

interesting to those who plan to venture 

into some of the natural beauty that lies 

just past the city boundaries. There’s also 

a café here that offers Internet access 

for those who can’t quite let go of their 

e-mail accounts. Periodic art exhibitions 

and other cultural events occur here; keep 

an eye out for them. 

Just a block behind City Hall is the 

historic Austurvollur Square. Here 

the people of Reykjavik gather for 

important events, including the annual 

A typical pre-World War II Reykjavik house



Shopping as tax dodge? 

Whenever you buy goods for more than 4,000 ISK in one 

shop, you are entitled to a tax refund. You pay the full price, 

but should ask for a “tax-free” form entitling you to a 

15% refund. Claim the refund at two places: the Iceland 

Refund desk at the Reykjavik Tourist Centre (Adalstraeti 

2), or the Global Refund desk at the Forex Bank (Bankastraeti 

2). You can also claim it at the airport when you 

leave. If it is more than 5,000 ISK, you 

must have the check stamped by the Customs 

Authority Offi ce at the airport. You 

may be asked to produce your purchases, 

so carry them as hand luggage.

lighting of the city’s Christmas tree. 

It’s presided over by a statue of Jon 

Sigurdsson, the 19th-century hero who 

fought for Iceland’s independence. In 

summer months, public art exhibitions 

and performances are mounted in this 

popular gathering spot. 

Here also is the Althing, Iceland’s 

parliament. It looks like your home-town 

public library, but don’t be fooled. This 

is the building where it all happened 

and happens, including the successful 

debates over gay rights legislation - 

happily, much more civilized than the 

Viking past. The present building was 

built in the 1880s. Just across from the 

Althing is a small church that is actually 

the Reykjavik Cathedral. The church 

was built in neo-classical style, and 

is considered a gem among the 18thcentury 

buildings that remain in the city. 


It has been said that these two buildings 

form the cornerstone of the city, 

representing both spiritual and political 

infl uences in the life of the citizens. 

Across the square sits the grand Borg 

Hotel, Reykjavik’s oldest and most 

revered. The Paris Café provides ample 

opportunity to stop, relax, and refl ect 

over steaming food, cold beer, or sweet 

snacks. Its a good place to people watch. 

From the square it is a short walk to 

Reykjavik Harbor, a bustling center for 

the city’s fi shing industry. If you’re in 

luck, there will be a boat or two in from 

the sea and unloading the week’s catch. 

The Elding Whale Watching (tel: 692 

4210) boats depart from here, weather 

permitting, April through September. If 

you don’t spot whales, you’re offered 

another trip for free! Here also are the 

excursion boats that will take you to 

the small islands off shore for a day of 

exploration, hiking, or birdwatching. 

Left, Hallgrímskirkja dominates the Reykjavik 

skyline. Above, the view from the church tower 

includes the patchwork quilt of the city’s homes.


Imagine Peace Tower 

Situated on the island of Videy in Reykjavik’s bay, the tower is Yoko Ono’s 

memorial to John Lennon. It is a column of light, lit from John’s birthday 

on October 9 until December 8, the day of his death. It is also lit for other 

special occasions. Electricity for the tower comes entirely from geothermal 

power. Boat trips to the lit tower are ofered by Elding (see page 47). 

Reykjavik is also a biking city. In addition to the city streets there is a less rigorous 

path along the shore that is ideal for a sight-seeing ride as well as for walking and 

jogging. Bikes can be rented from Bike Rental Borgarhjol, located at Hversfisgata 

50 (Tel: 551 5653). If you are a true biking enthusiast, consider contacting the 

Icelandic Mountain Biking Club before you arrive in Iceland. They have a wealth of 

information and can be reached by e-mail at ifhk@fjallahjolaklubburinn.is.

The Museums 

The Arbaer Open Air Museum 

(Reykjavik City Museum) 

Kistuhylur 4, Tel: 577 1111 

Website: www.arbaejarsafn.is 

A living-history museum village 

where staff dress in period costumes, 

this collection of buildings dates from 

the 18th and 19th centuries. Open June- 

August: Mon., 11 am-4 pm; Tues.-Fri., 9 

am-5 pm; Sat.-Sun., 10 am-6 pm. Sept.- 

May: guided tours Mon., Wed., Fri., 1 

pm. Entrance fee: ISK 600. Bus 110 from 

Laekjartorg terminal. 

Culture House 

Hverfisgata 15, Tel: 545 1400 

Website:www.thjodmenning.is/index_ 

english.htm 

The exhibits here change often, and 

always stress Icelandic history and 

heritage. Special attention is paid to 

the nation’s literature, including, of 

course, the all-important sagas. The 

Árni Magnússon Institute Collection 

of Iceland’s greatest national treasures, 

vellum manuscripts of the sagas and 

other important Icelandic writings. is 

also here. It’s truly a shrine. Open daily 

11-5. Entrance fee: ISK 300. 

Listasafn Íslands 

(National Gallery of Iceland) 

Fríkirkjuvegur 7, Tel: 515 9610 

Website: http://www.listasafn.is/?root=1 


Iceland’s National Gallery showcases 

the most important collection of paintings 

and sculpture by 19th and 20th century 

Icelandic artists. International artists 

are also represented, including Picasso, 

Munch, Appel, and Hartung. The gallery 

also hosts several international touring 

exhibitions each year. Opening: Tues- 

Sun 11 am-5pm. Admission: Free.. 

Reykjavik Art Museum 

Website: www.artmuseum.is 

In three locations. Admission: Free 

Hafnarhus 

Tryggvagöta 17, Tel: 590 1200 

The rooms house exhibitions from the 

Museum´s general collections, as well as 

from its great pride, the large collection 

of works by Erró, an Icelandic artist 

now living abroad. In addition, other 

Icelandic and international art exhibitions 

are regular features on the museum’s 

calendar. Opening hours: Daily 11 am-6 

pm (until 7 pm Thurs.). 

Ásmundur Sveinsson 

Sculpture Museum 

Sigtún, Tel: 553 2155 

Dedicated to the works of the sculptor 

Asmundur Sveinsson (1893-1982), the 

collection is housed in a building that was 

designed and built by the artist himself 

in the 1940s. A striking sculpture garden 

surrounds the museum, containing 

several of the artist´s important pieces. 

Opening hours: Daily 10 am-4 pm (May- 

Sep); daily 1 pm-4 pm (Oct-Apr). Bus 5.


Ma Venus (detail), 1975, by Erró. From the 

collection of the Reykjavik Museum of Art. 

Kjarvalsstadir 

Flókagata, Tel: 552 6131 

Built to honor Iceland’s most beloved 

painter Jóhannes Kjarval (1885-1972), 

it hosts exhibitions of Icelandic and 

international art, architecture and design. 

Exhibitions from the Kjarval collection 

are also featured. Bookstore, designshop 

and caféteria on site. Open daily 10 am- 

5pm. Free admission. Bus 3 or 6. 

Sigurjon Olafsson Museum 

Laugarestangi 70, Tel: 553 2906 

Website: www.lso.is/index_e.htm 

Devoted to the life work of Icelandic 

avant-garde artist Sigurjon Olafsson 

(1908-1982). Olafsson used wood, stone, 

metal, and concrete in his abstract work, 

which was often inspired by the Icelandic 

sagas. Tuesday evening concerts in 

summer. Opening hours: Tues.-Sun. 

2 pm-5 pm (summer); Sat. and Sun. 

only 2 pm-5 pm (winter). Closed Dec. 

and Jan. Admission: Free. Bus 4 or 5. 

Thjódminjasafn Íslands 

(National Museum) 

Sudurgata 41, Tel: 552 8888 

Website: www.natmus.is 

Founded in 1863, the National Museum 

contains a range of archeological relics 

and tools spanning Reykjavik’s 11 

centuries of history. Its star attraction is 

a 12th-century door depicting a Norse 

battle scene. The museum, newly 

renovated, is a modern comfortable 

space, showcasing the rich history of the 

nation. Call for open times and entrance 

fees. Bus 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 14, 110 or 112. 

Performing Arts 

The Icelandic Opera 

Ingólfsstraeti. Tel.: 354 511 4200 

Website: www.opera.is 

The Icelandic Opera opens its cultural 

season in the fall with performances 

at the northernmost opera house in 

the world. Although the elegant old 

cinema house in the heart of Reykjavik 

seats only 473, individual productions 

have drawn overall audiences of 8,000. 

The building is also the venue for nonoperatic 

performances during the year. If 

you are an opra buff, be sure to check the 

performance schedule during your stay.


Reykjavik: Spa City 

Reykjavik has become known as one of the world’s best spa cities. But 

you don’t have to spend an arm and a leg in order to enjoy the benefits. 

The city maintains several superb thermal swimming pools, where, for just 

a few dollars you can swim, soak in a hot pot, enjoy the solarium, melt in 

a steam bath, or (at some), bake in a sauna. And there’s nothing quite like 

swimming outside in the dead of winter with a snow squall blowing over 

your head and clouds of steam rising from a warm pool. 

You must, however, be aware of the Icelandic etiquette concerning the use 

of these facilities. Once you pay your admission and get your towel, you 

will be assigned a locker, or a small changing room. You strip completely, 

wrap your towel around you, take your swimsuit with you, and head for 

the shower. You take a full nude shower, with soap, washing your entire 

body, including hair. Only then can you don Speedos and hit the pool. 

The three most popular pools for visitors. 

Sundlaug Vesturbaejar, Hofsvallagata. Tel: 551 5004. Located in the 

west of town. An outdoor pool with three hotpots , steam room, solarium, 

and sauna. Opening hours: Mon.-Fri., 6:45 am-10 pm. Sat. and Sun. 

8 am - 8 pm. Admission ISK 360. Bus 4 and 6. 

Laugardalslaug, Sundlaugavegur. Tel: 553 4039. The largest of the 

Reykjavik facilities. Located at the 

Laugardalur Sports Complex. An outdoor 

pool with six hotpots, sauna, solarium, 

and steam room. Opening hours: Mon.- 

Fri., 7 am-10 pm. Sat. and Sun. 8 am - 9 

pm. Admission ISK 360. Bus 5. 

Sundholl Reykjavikur, Baronsstigur. 

Tel: 551 4059. The city center’s only 

indoor pool, centrally located behind the 

Hallgrimskirkja. Hotpots located outside. 

Solarium and steam room. Opening 

hours: Mon.-Fri., 6:30 am-9 pm. Sat. and 

Sun. 8 am-7 pm. Admission ISK 360.



Three gay musicians 

Music is huge in Iceland’s pop culture. 

These gay men have added their 

talents to the contemporary scene. 

Paul Oscar: Brash, smart, inyour-face 

— these are all terms that 

can be applied to Paul, Iceland’s 

gay pop singer and DJ. His entire 

family is musical, and his songs 

span styles; he’s as likely to sing an 

Icelandic ballad as he is to perform 

a hot dance 

number, or be- 

gin crooning in 

Frank Sinatra 

style. He’s in 

demand as a 

DJ at the city’s 

gay dance 

parties, and 

is always in 

the entertainment line-up for the 

August Gay Pride rally. He enjoys 

wide popularity in Europe, and 

is a forthright and very public 

spokesman for gay concerns. 

Jón (Jónsi) Þór Birgisson: Tf 

this untamed land could select 

music for herself, compositions that 

would communicate the vibrance of 

Reykjavík, the might of Vatnajökull, 

or the riveting beauty of her 

landscape, she would choose Sigur 

Rós, an alternative band loved by 

many around 

the globe. Jónsi, 

their gay lead 

singer (who 

plays electric 

guitar with a 

viola bow), 

possesses an 

ethereal voice 

and ability to 

communicate an emotional range 

with no apparent effort. To travel 

in Iceland with a Sigur Ros CD 

playing is to see and “feel” Iceland 

in a deeper, intuitive place. 

Tomas (Tommi) Tomasson: 

They call themselves Iceland’s pop 

art geezers. But make no mistake. 

Björk may be Iceland’s most 

recognized entertainer, but at home 

the pop group Studmenn has more 

than held its own since 1974 with 

chart-topping albums and singles. 

In 2005 the group played London’s 

Royal Albert Hall. Tomi, a guitarist 

since age 10, is the group’s openly 

gay bass player. He has also worked 

as a producer 

and recording 

engineer. He 

loves cooking 

and lives happily 

in Reykjavik 

with his 

partner Maggi 

and their cat 

Alexandra.

The Iceland Dance Company 

Reykjavik City Theater -Kringlan Mall 

Tel: 354 588 0900 

Website: www.id.is 

Founded in 1973. Nurturing the talent 

of young choreographers and dancers, 

the company is known for its innovation 

and its collaborative work with other 

artistic sectors, with a special emphasis 

on new dance creation. 

Iceland Symphony Orchestra 

Tel: 354 551 1200 

Website: www.sinfonia.is 

The ISO gives approximately 60 

concerts each season, including 

subscription concerts in Reykjavik, and 

tours at home and abroad. Concerts in 

Reykjavik are performed at the Iceland 

University Concert Hall. 


In a city where winter light is fl eeting, Christmas 

is a good reason to light up the town. 

The National Theater 

Hverfi sgata, Tel: 354 551 1200 

Website: www.leikhus.is 

Iceland’s theater scene runs yearround, 

but may pose a challenge to non- 

Icelandic speakers. Sometimes there are 

English-language productions. Musicals 

are generally not in English. Check 

what’s playing when you are in town. 

The Reykjavik City Theater 

Listabraut 3 at the Kringlan Mall. 

Tel: 354 568 5500 

Website: www.borgarleikhus.is 

Call the box offi ce, or visit the 

Reykjavik Tourist Information Center 

for information on the current season’s 

schedule. Program is varied, and not 

always accessible to English speakers.


Shopping 

Avid urban shoppers should have no 

trouble acclimating to Reykjavik. Not 

only does this city offer a hip spectrum 

of hot fashions, accessories and home 

goods, it may at times require the same 

funds needed on a jaunt along New 

York’s Madison Avenue. 

In the old City Center, the vibe 

is pure Iceland: relaxed, cool and 

abuzz. Laugavegur and Bankastraeti 

form Reykjavik’s main shopping 

thoroughfare, a playground for both 

fashion mavens and amateurs alike. 

You will, of course, want to return 

to home bearing gifts that both reflect 

your unselfish, thoughtful nature and 

your talent for impeccable gift giving. 

Unique discoveries can be made on 

Skolavordustigur, a street populated 

with trendy boutiques, gourmet shops, 

jewelry studios and art galleries. 

Beating at the heart of Reykjavik’s 

“new” city center, home to the 

City Theatre, approximately four 

kilometers from the historic city 

center, is Kringlan, a large shopping 

mall with over 130 shops, restaurants 

and services. 

Bargain hunters and Tchatchka lovers 

should visit Reykjavik’s only indoor flea 

market, Kolaportid. In addition to the 

kitsch, there is also a food section that 

has some of the more pungent Icelandic 

delicacies, like dried fish and cured (or 

rotten, depending on your point of view) 

shark. Kolaportid is only open Saturday 

and Sunday, from 11 am to 5 pm. 

Smaralind, a new and popular 

shopping mall that opened in November 

2000, is located somewhat farther from 

downtown Reykjavik, in the adjoining 

town of Kopavogur. It also features a 

large number of stores, including the 

British chain Debenhams. Opening 

hours are 11 am- 7 pm on weekdays, 

11 am-6 pm on Saturdays, and 1 pm-6 

pm on Sundays. Busses 16, 17, 18, 114 

will take you. 

Antiques 

Frida fraenka 

Vesturgata 3, Tel: 551 4730 

An eclectic shop, offering quality 

antiques and collectibles in an atmosphere 

that invites browsing. Some nice small 

items easily transported back home. A 

fun romp when you need a break from 

the fickle weather. Reasonable prices. 

Left, shopping is a national passtime. Opposite 

page: browsing in one of the city’s bookstores.

Antikhusid 

Skolavordustigur 21, Tel: 552 2419 

Furniture and small pieces from the 

19th and 20th century. 

Antikmunir 

Klapparstigur 40, Tel: 552 7977 

A high-quality antique shop. Not the 

cheapest but among the best. 

Hja Ommu Antique 

Hverfisgata 37, Tel: 552-0190 

With a name like “Grandma’s,” you 

can expect a warm welcome and a nice 

collection of Icelandic and European 

pieces from grand to kitsch. 

Art Galleries 

Kirsuberjatred 

Vesturgata 4, Tel: 562-8990 

A gallery of Icelandic design owned 

by ten female artists, each with her own 

specialty. Gifts, fashion accessories, 

home accents, and clothing are made 

from unusual native materials making 

this an interesting browse for visitors. 

Kraum 

Adalstraeti 10. Tel: 517 7797 

For one of the best overiviews of 

exciting Icelandic design, check out 

this fabullous spot, located in the oldest 

house in the city. Here you’ll find 

pieces representing nearly 100 Icelandic 

designers. Spend some time and money! 


The Nordic House 

Sturlugata 5, Tel: 551 7030 

Nordic art is the main focus of 

exhibition at this venue, nestled on a 

picturesque plot of land. It includes a 

library, excellent restaurant, production 

hall, and spacious basement gallery. 

Books 

MM Books 

Laugavegur 18, Tel. 515 2500 

This large international bookstore can 

handle any needs. A collection of books 

on Icelandic culture, language, and 

geography, as well as guidebooks, maps, 

and postcards. Large sections of English 

fiction and nonfiction. 

Penninn Eymundsson 

Austurstraeti 18, Tel: 511 1140 

Good selection of books about Iceland, 

and Iceland guidebooks and maps. Large 

English language paperback section on 

the second floor. A good selection of gift 

items as well.


Clothing 

Dogma 

Laugavegur 30A, Tel: 562-6600 

A T-Shirt store, like any you’d fi nd 

in a big continental city – but with 

Icelandic traits. Aimed at a young 

crowd looking for the politically 

incorrect or absurd. 

Dressmann 

Laugavegur 18, Tel: 561-9768 

Once again, we are in for some 

style lessons from the refi ned North. 

This Norwegian men’s clothing chain 

Dressmann features a very trendy and 

urban collection with a very particular 

Nordic crispness. Special sale items 

appear from time to time. 

GuSt 

Bankastræti 11, Tel: 551 7151 

Icelandic fashion designer Gudrun 

Sveinbjornsdottir has been designing 

clothes for women since 1997. Designs 

are modern, feminine, and quirky enough 

to make them fun. 

Herragardurinn 


High-end boutique for men’s clothing 

and casual wear. International designer 

labels found here include Cerutti, 

Gardeur, Strellson, and Hugo Boss. 

Spútnik 

Laugavegur 28-B, Tel;561-7060 

Look no further for vintage fashion in 

Reykjavík. Spútnik offers an important 

supply of vintage clothing for styleminded 

urbanites. You’ll see vintage on 

the streets, so you may as well fearlessly 

dress your part. The selection reveals a 

tasteful editing and a huge collection of 

clothes and accessories for both genders. 

Galleries and Crafts 

Epal 


Whatever you heard about cutting 

edge Icelandic trends in design and the

Left: Browsing at Listagalleri. Right: Shopping 

the racks on the main shopping street. 

arts is most probably true, and Epal is 

the epitome, bringing together textiles, 

furniture, décor, and wonderfully fun 

objects by Nordic designers. 

Kolbrún S. Kjarval Gallery 

Skólavörðustígur 22, Tel: 511-1197 

The granddaughter of famed Jóhannes 

Sveinsson Kjarval (one of Iceland’s 

preeminent 20th Century artists) owns 

this studio-gallery, which shows her 

own ceramic art and works by other 

members of her family. This space 

is also her workshop, so chances are 

good you will fi nd the artist at work. 

Lana Matusa Gallerí 


Lana Matusa, a Serbian artist, has 

succeeded in interpreting Iceland’s 

natural and cultural extremes in her 

captivating ceramics, inspired by 

Norse folklore, as well as dramatic 

Icelandic landscapes. Her ‘Lava 

People.’ merit special attention. 


Listagallerí 

Skólavörðustígur 16A, Tel: 561-4090 

Spend some time exploring the 

cramped walls of paintings by many 

different artists. Find some bizarre 

takes on decorative art, and colorful 

experiments on small canvases. Fun, 

interesting, amusing, affordable. 

Thorvaldsensbazar 

Austurstraeti 4, Tel: 551 3509 

Established in 1875, the Thorvaldesen 

Society is the oldest craft organization in 

Iceland. It has been in the same location 

since 1905. All profi ts go to charities that 

support special needs of children. 

Food 

10-11 

Austurstraeti 19 

Convenient, somewhat pricey, good 

selection of basic needs. Weak on fresh 

produce. Wide selection of snack foods 

and ready-made sandwiches and salads 

for eating “on the stroll.” Good shop for 

those who can barely boil water.


Bonus 

Laugavegur 59; Also Ingolfstraeti 15 

The cheapest grocery stores in town. 

There’s a good selection of fresh fruits 

and veggies, meats, prepared sandwiches, 

frozen meals, and more. 

Ostabúdin 

Skolavardustigur 8, Tel: 562 2772 

The city’s best delicatessen, giving you 

the opportunity to sample everything 

from smoked goose breast to dill-cured 

horsemeat. Check out the Icelandic 

cheeses. Light lunches also offered. 

Yggdrasill 


Yggdrasill is an attractive health food 

shop, offering everything green, from 

homeopathic and health care products 

to green-proven foods. The selection 

is huge and in summer Icelandic dairy 

products are more widely available. 

Gifts & sweaters 

IĐA 

Lækjargata 2a, Tel. 511 5001 

Spacious, airy independent lesbian- 

owned book and gift emporium, 

offering Icelandic and English 

paperbacks, magazines and an 

excellent selection of Iceland photo 

books. Greeting cards, postcards, 

souvenirs, great T-shirts, and other 

gift items. The staff is informative,and 

helpful about queer life in the capital 

city. Relax in the upstairs café. 

Ísey 


A large collection of hand-knit 

traditional sweaters, scarves, gloves, 

headwear, socks. Check it out if 

Iceland knit clothing is on your list of 

gifts to self – or others. 

Iceland Giftstore 

Hafnarstraeti 19, Tel: 551-1122 

Collections of souvenirs ranging 

from the cheap key ring to more 

sophisticated pottery, jewelry and 

glass artwork. Clothing from Icelandic 

designers and a variety of decorated 

housewares in modern design. 

Iceland Hand-Knitting Association 

Skolavordustigur 19, Tel: 552 1890 

The lopi sweater has come to symbolize 

Iceland far beyond its shores. Shelves are 

stacked to the ceiling with more choices 

than you’ll fi nd elsewhere. 

Classic Iceland sweaters are popular

Iceland Wool 

Thingholtsstraeti 3, Tel: 562 2116 

Bring home a real piece of Iceland with 

its wool. This is a factory store, so it 

will have cheaper prices then elsewhere. 

Excellent selection of all things wool. 

Housewares 

Kokka 


A shop that’s a joy to anyone who loves 

to cook. Specializing in quality cookware 

with items from around the world. 

Kúnígúnd 


Housewares and tableware by designers 

including Georg Jensen, Bodum, 

Orrefoss, Holmegaard, and Dreizack. 

You’ll fi nd glass sculptures, vases, 

glassware, cutlery, and more. 

Music CDs 

12 Tónar 


Reykjavik’s legendary music store 

. If you are into the explosive Iceland 

music scene, or seek rare Icelandic 

recordings (even if you just love 

music), accept the offer of a cup of 

house coffee and browse this music 

galleria. And don’t leave without 

checking out the schedule of their 

popular in-house concerts. 



Bára Kristinsdottir 

When Bára goes to Reykjavik’s 

Gay Pride, she sees it through her 

camera. A successful commercial 

photographer, she has captured 

many faces and personalities in 

Iceland’s queer community. Her 

work has appeared in catalogs, 

magazines and books. They fi ll the 

pages of several same-sex wedding 

albums! Still, Bára fi nds time for 

personal projects. A favorite is her 

photographic essay on the meaning 

of family, including images ranging 

from heterosexual groupings, 

through same-sex families, to people 

and their pets. It takes no coaxing, 

however, for her to stop work and 

grab fi shing gear and wading boots. 

She and her partner Arndis often head 

out to one of Iceland’s wilderness 

rivers for a weekend of salmon 

fi shing. There are few pictures of the 

getaways. “It’s 

not because 

we don’t want 

the photos,” 

Bára says. “It’s 

just that I am 

so very busy 

trying to catch 

a fi sh that I 

never think of 

picking up the 

camera.”


Gay & lesbian life 

Spirit of inclusion 

Iceland enjoys a well-earned reputation for inclusion of gays and 

lesbians in the country’s social fabric. Today’s visitor discovers a relaxed 

atmosphere and a spirit of tolerance found in few other countries. This 

is, however, a relatively recent development, and has been achieved only 

with great effort and hard work – and, sadly, with a helping hand from the 

AIDS epidemic.

The overview 

Back in the 1960s and early 1970s, 

Iceland’s gays and lesbians led 

closeted lives. The very few that were 

out of the closet, either by choice or 

by others’ disclosure, were treated 

with social contempt. While gay 

rights organizations were forming 

throughout the United States and 

Europe, the lesbians and gay men of 

Iceland were effectively bulldozed 

into silence at home. Many made the 

decision to abandon their country, and 

moved away. Some never returned. 

Others went back only after the social 

climate improved. 

The Icelandic culture has always 

placed great emphasis on the value of a 

close family. There was a near-absolute 

expectation that children would follow 

the heterosexual norm, marry, and 

remain strongly bonded with members 

of both the nuclear and extended 

family. Being gay was a 

matter of shame, something 

not to be discussed, certainly 

not to be “flaunted” in the 

faces of family and friends. 

A large number of gay men 

and lesbians chose to enter 

heterosexual marriages, many 

of them bearing the guilt 

and pain that accompanies 

leading a double life. 

In 1978 a group of 20 

people founded Iceland’s 

Gay and Lesbian Life 61 

national lesbian and gay advocacy 

organization, Samtökin ‘78. Its 

progress over the next several years, 

however, was slow. 

In 1983, one Reykjavik dance club, 

in its regular newspaper advertising, 

sought to increase its popularity by 

proclaiming, “Everyone is welcome 

here – except gays and lesbians.” 

By 1986, there were enough cases of 

AIDS in Iceland to grab the attention 

of the government, the gay community, 

and the larger society. The government 

began a national discussion, People’s 

attitudes began to change. 

Moreover, the gay and lesbian 

community, having been forced into 

this debate with all levels of Icelandic 

society, drew an increased strength 

and courage to carry on their struggle 

for dignity and equal rights, and to live 

Below, a Reykjavik gay rights demonstration in 

the ealry 1990s.


their lives freely and openly. 

Gay men and lesbians also undertook 

a campaign to forcefully reject the 

common term used to name them, 

kynvilla, meaning sexual aberration. 

Instead they used lesbía and hommi 

to describe themselves, and a 

new Icelandic word was created, 

samkynhneigd, a compound of the 

words same, sex, and orientation to 

refer to homosexuality. 

By the opening of the 1990s, people 

were rushing out of their closets. 

Reykjavik’s first gay bar, Club 22, had 

Icelandic GLBT and the Law 

1869: Penal code criminalized same-sex intercourse. 

1940: The Althing abolished the 1869 provision. 

1985: A proposed parliamentary resolution sought to 

establish a committee on the status of gays and 

lesbians. It never was voted. 

1989: Legislation allows the right to change legal 

gender 

1992: A resolution, identical to that of 1985, was passed. 

The committee presented a report in 1994, that 

was the basis for subsequent legislation. 

1992: The age of consent was set at 14 for all. 

1996: The Althing passed a law recognizing registered 

same-sex partnerships, with equal legal status 

with straight marriage. Adoption of unrelated 

children and in vitro fertilization not allowed. 

2000: The Althing passed an amendment extending 

opened and a magazine named Pink 

and Blue was rolling off the presses 

regularly, its pages full of articles on 

all matters sexual – including gay sex. 

“By the time I came out of the closet in 

1991,” recalls one man, “Iceland had 

revolutionized.” 

Gay people in Iceland who remember 

the struggle regard their status today 

as quite amazing, given this relatively 

abrupt societal about-face. 

By Spring 2009, Iceland’s gays and 

lesbians had achieved the full legal 

rights they set out to claim in 1978. 

Christian Jonsson and Einar 

Sigurdsson on the occasion of 

their marriage. 

the rights of foreign nationals living in Iceland to allow them to register their 

partnerships. 

2006: Legislation passed allowing full access to in vitro fertilization for couples and 

individuals. The joint adoption of non-related children is allowed. 

2008: Gays can marry in the state-sponsored church. 

2009: Equal access to “parental orders” for gay men with surrogacy arrangements.

The rules of the road 

As gay life and community have 

evolved in Iceland, their patterns of 

development have been different than 

in other Western countries. There is 

no gay neighborhood in Reykjavik. 

(“We don’t want to live in a gay 

neighborhood. There would be no 

gain; gays here are very socially 

integrated.”) There are no gay 

bathhouses. (“They’re too unsubtle. 

And we are too gossipy.”) Gay bars 

come and go. There have been times 

when the city has had no gay bar at 

all. It’s not only the gay scene that is 

restive. All the city’s nightlife can be 

as volatile as the geological forces 

just beneath the surface of this island. 


For gay men and lesbians visiting 

Reykjavik, the social landscape 

requires a creative approach to meeting 

people and discovering the current hot 

spot(s). The key to success is to have 

no preconceived expectations, and to 

quickly adjust to the rhythm of the 

community. Be aware of the scale of 

life. The entire population of the nation 

is just below 320,000! More people 

live on New York’s Staten Island than 

in all of Iceland. 

In Reykjavik, one can very quickly 

start thinking that everybody is related 

to everybody, knows everybody, and 

has slept with everybody. While this 

is certainly not the case, the smaller 

size of the community has engendered 

an emphasis on sociability as the 

foundation stone of community life. 

People go out in groups. They go out 

to be with their friends first. Finding 

a partner for the night, while always 

a desire, is not at the top of the list. 

Cruising is often a more intricate 

ritual, more flirtatious and subtle, 

often taking place within a group 

where other demands for attention 

interject themselves, and where the 

smallest flirtation can be cause for 

group merriment, even discussion. 

Be prepared to be the first one to 

speak. Icelanders are a friendly people, 

interested in cultures and people 

beyond their shores. Breaking the 

ice, however, is often up to you. It can


Reykjavik’s first Gay Pride Walk, 1993, sponsored by Samtokin ‘78. 

Participants pause for a group photo at the conclusion of the march.

seem daunting at first, but the benefits 

outweigh temporary discomfort, and 

you can quickly find you are a “group 

member” for the night. This can mean 

anything from staying put and chatting 

to being invited to join in a lively run 

through the city’s nightlife. 

Lastly, be aware that after 2 am on a 

Friday or Saturday night, none of the 

above applies. Iceland parties hard on 

the weekend, and takes its drinking 

seriously. Because of the obscenely 

high cost of beer, wine and liquor in 

bars and clubs, many people begin 

the party at home, and hit the streets 

around 11 pm, with blood alcohol 

levels already climbing and inhibitions 

on the wane. By three in the morning, 

things can get a little ragged around 

the edges. And the party doesn’t stop. 

People still crowd the streets at 6 am. 

One American gay man tells the story 

of his Saturday night experience at 

one club. “I and my Icelandic friends 

sat at a table. Two men, boyfriends 

at least for the night, sat down next 

to me. The one nearest me put one 

arm around his friend and they began 

kissing passionately. At the same time, 

his other hand was working the front 

of my pants.” A seasoned native, on 

hearing the story, remarked, “Icelandic 

men will do just about anything when 

they are drunk. The next morning, 

they won’t remember who you are.” 

It’s a lesson in humility. 



Frosti Jonsson 

Since 2007 Frosti has served 

as the Chairman of Samtokin 

78, Iceland’s National queer 

organization. He came to the job at 

what many consider the end of the 

organization’s 30-year struggle for 

equal rights. “We have achieved our 

political goals,” he says, “perhaps 

at the expense of social and service 

programs. I think now is the time to 

revisit our core values.” Emerging 

groups need support in new ways. 

“We have a growing multicultural 

immigrant population we need 

to reach out to. The transgender 

community is making itself heard. 

We need to be guided by them 

and support them.” Additionally, 

Frosti maintains the website www. 

gayice.is, posting updates, news, 

and views on Iceland’s queer life. 

He organizes Iceland’s annual bear 

event, Bears on Ice. And to get away 

from it all? He relaxes playing for 

Skautafelag Reykjavikur, one of 

Iceland’s hockey teams.


The queer heartbeat 

Samtokin ‘78 

Queer Community Center 

Laugavegur 3. Tel: 552 7878. 

Website: www.samtokin78.is 

This is the heart of Reykjavik’s queer 

community. The entrance is through 

the arch at left of the building. Take 

the elevator to the 4th fl oor. The center 

operates The Rainbow Café, a cozy 

candlelit space that is open Monday 

and Thursday 8 pm – 11:30 pm. Enjoy 

beer, coffee, or soft drinks. Meet the 

natives and fi nd out what’s on the 

queer calendar during the days you 

are visiting the city. The center also 

maintains an impressive and extensive 


Extending yourself works wonders 

Yes. It is true. If you want to play in Reykjavik, you have 

to do some work. Hell, if I can do it, so can you. Get out 

there. Talk to people. Ask questions. Be charming. Buy a 

round. Talk about them, not about you. Ask more questions. 

If you do, you’ll make friends easily. Hey – I got invited to a 

Jacuzzi party, and a dinner party, I now have real friends in 

Iceland. We’ve listed the places where help is available. Visit 

them. Make an early Stop at Samtokin 78, the queer center. 

There are gay staff members at IÐA (see page 58) who can 

be helpful. Check out www.gayice.is for the latest info on 

everything queer in this cool, often very hot, capital. Above 

all, relax and be yourself . It’s a hell of an adventure. 

library of gay and lesbian magazines, 

books and videos. There is always a 

staff member behind the desk who is 

happy to provide insight into the latest 

queer developments in Reykjavik. 

Smart travelers know to start their 

Iceland adventure here.

MSC Iceland 

Laugavegur 28. Tel: 893 9552 

Website: www.msc.is 

The community’s sole male-only space 

is operated by MSC (Motor Sports Club) 

Iceland, the social organization of the 

leather and fetish men of Iceland. The 

group recently moved into a new and 

larger space, and weekends see many 

of Reykjavik’s gay men showing up 

to enjoy a beer or three. 

This is not a leather bar, but is instead 

the “clubhouse” of the organization, 

complete with darkroom. It is open 

every Friday and Saturday night from 

11 pm until 3 am, sometimes later. 

Generally, dress code rules are relaxed, 

so most men should feel comfortable 

here. There are, however, special 

theme nights that the group sponsors, 

and on those occasions the designated 

dress code is enforced. Men usually 

arrive here between 11 and midnight. 

A 500 ISK cover charge is asked of 

non members to help with expenses. 


The clubs 

Here today, gone tomorrow. That 

seems to be the way it is for much 

of Reykjavik’s nightlife. Clubs open, 

build a clientele, get sold, change 

name, change clientele. Clientele 

changes whim. What was hot is not. 

It’s diffi cult to keep up. 

Currently Reykjavik is enjoying 

a relative boom in gay night life. 

There are two successful commercial 

gay clubs operating in the center of 

town, It is important to remember 

that weekends are the busy times. Bars 

during the week are quieter spaces. 

Q Bar 

Ingolfsstraeti 3. Tel: 578 7868 

Website: www.qbar.is 

Dancing, cocktails, sturdy Iceland 

beer, and light snack foods await 

those who venture inside. DJs keep 

the music pulsing on weekends and 

occasional live performances dot the 

venue’s schedule as well. A younger


crowd of lesbians, gay men, and their 

straight friends form the backbone of 

the clientele. Very crowded and a bit 

raucous on weekends. Party on! 

Bar Barbara 

Laugarvegur 22. Tel: 

Website: www 

Reykjavik’s gay life comes full 

circle with this newest addition to the 

city’s club circuit. Located in the same 

building that housed Iceland’s first gay 

bar, this establishment offers dancing 

on one floor and a quieter more relaxed 

lounge space upstairs. Popular with a 

cross section of the queer community. 

Entrance on the side street, up one 

flight of stairs. Conveniently located 

on the much-traveled walk between 

the MSC clubhouse and Q Bar. 

The Recovery Day 

Sundays are truly days for recovery. 

Don’t expect much excitement. If you 

went out Friday and Saturday nights, 

you shouldn’t want any. If you are 

up around 1 pm, head to Jomfruin 

Restaurant, where you’re apt to find 

other gay people gathered for Sunday 

Dancing is the centerpiece of the nightlong 

party at Reykjavik’s Q Bar

unch. Sunday afternoons are also a 

good time to rejuvenate with a swim 

and a soak in a hotpot.. Head for one 

of the city’s public swimming pools 

(see page 51). 

Gay and lesbian events 

Hinsegin Dagar (Gay Pride) 

Various venues. Tel: 862 2868 

Website: www.gaypride.is 

At the top of Iceland’s gay and lesbian 

calendar is Hinsegin Dagar (Different 

Days), the annual Gay Pride, held on 

the second weekend of August each 

year. The festival has grown to be one 

of the country’s most popular events. 

Straight people plan their vacations so 

as not to be away on this weekend, and 

more than 10 percent of the nation’s 

population turns out for the parade and 

attends the lakeside party afterward. 

Icelandic gays like to say theirs is the 

only gay pride in the world that is a 

“family pride” as well. 


Nightclubs sponsor gay dances on 

Saturday night, and other special 

events occur across the two days. If 

you plan to attend, book your hotel 

early, especially if you plan to stay 

in a gay-owned venue. Hotel rooms 

disappear months in advance. 

International Leather Summit 



Each June, MSC Iceland hosts leather 

men from around the world for three 

days of festivities that include the club 

President’s cocktail party, a Viking- 

Top: gathered and ready for brunch at Jomfruin 

Below: a Pride-inspired costume


Lesbians on the lava! 

So where are all the lesbians in 

Reykjavik? With a nightlife that is 

so heterogeneous (if you’ll pardon 

the pun), it can often be a challenge 

for visiting lesbians to meet their 

like-minded native counterparts. 

While there is one male-only space 

in the capital, there is no such 

space for women. Young lesbians 

enthusiastically take part in the 

weekend club hopping, but women 

over 30 tend to already have partners 

and/or have social lives that depend 

more on their own personal networks. 

If you are at a point in life where the 

idea of drinking and dancing until 6 

am doesn’t hold a strong appeal, don’t 

worry. There is a lively and varied 

lesbian community life, and women 

are very happy to have you join in 

many of their activities. These range 

from weekend fi shing trips, through 

camping excursions, to volley ball 

games and parties. 

Certainly, Samtökin 78 is an excellent 

on-the-ground starting point for 

women as well as men. On the nights 

the Rainbow Café is open, women at 

times can outnumber the men, with 

most making an appearance around 10 

pm. Thursday nights tend to be popular 

with women. This is not only a place 

to meet other lesbians, but also to fi nd 

out what is on the calendar while you 

are in town. The organization holds 

many social events for both gays and 

lesbians throughout the year. 

Iceland’s lesbians have also formed 

their own less formal organization

called Konur med Konum (Women 

With Women), which organizes 

events, and keeps women up-to-date 

on activities within the community. 

There are bowling nights and also 

opportunities to play a friendly game 

of volleyball. Informal 

soccer (European 

football) games 

happen in the summer 

months, and women 

from out of the country 

are always welcome to 

join. You may even 

be in Iceland when 

one of the popular 

Women with Women camping trips 

is scheduled. The group sponsors 

women-only dances and a variety of 

other happenings throughout the year. 

One of their most popular events is 

Gougledi, a dinner and ball in March 

or April, ending with the selection of 

the year’s Queen of the Night. 

The group’s website, www.kmk. 

is. is, alas, mostly in Icelandic (The 

events link is in Englsih, but is often 

out of date). Your best bet is to send 

an email requesting information ahead 

of your planned arrival. The address 

is: kmk@kmk.is 

Not sure of your plans? Ask to 

receive the group’s e-mail that informs 

of scheduled events through the year. 


Other plcces where you can often 

fi nd lesbians socializing are the Dillon 

Cafe, a cool spot that plays a mix of 

classic rock and pop music, and Naesti 

Bar (Ingolfstraeti 1A) a spot popular 

with actors, writers, artists and other 

creative types. 

Much of lesbian 

social life also takes 

place in private 

homes at dinners and 

parties. As you settle 

into Reykjavik don’t 

be surprised if you are 

invited to one of these 

friendly gatherings. 

These women enjoy meeting their 

foreign sisters. It should not take long 

for you to feel quite at home among the 

women who call Iceland their home. 

Opposite page: Top, enjoying a private party. 

Bottom, a night at the queer center. This 

page: Center, women on a rural weekend trip. 

Below, young lesbians at Pride Day.


style buffet dinner, and theme parties 

at the club house. A special culture 

tour of Reykjavik is scheduled, and 

recommended trips outside of the city 

are available. 

Hinsegin Biódagar 

Reykjavik Queer Film Festival 

Various venues. 

Website: www.gayice.is/english 

Some of the best in new queer-themed 

films can be seen in Reykjavik each 

September when they are screened 

by this popular film fest, which 

recently merged with the Reykjavik 

International Film Festival. A separate

GLBT film brochure is published for 

the event. Information on programs 

can be obtained from the festival 

website, or from Samtökin 78. 

Bears on Ice 

Various venues. 

Website: www.gayice.is 

Each September since 2005, Iceland 

has hosted a four day international 

gathering of gay bears and their 

frriends. The festivities have grown 

each year, and include special dinners, 

parties, sight-seeing tours into the 

Icelandic wilderness, whale watching 

trips, and plenty of time to relax and 

socialize with other like-minded men. 

Queer Center Parties 


Website: www.samtokin78.is 

Samtokin ‘78 throws several special 

gay parties and dances during the year, 

The largest are the annual Christmas 


Opposite page: 

Gay Bingo! It’s 

everywhere! A 

Christmas tradition 

in Reykjavik. 

This page: Top, 

Reykjavik on New 

Year’s eve. 

Below, Rain 

brings all kinds of 

rainbows 

Bottom, one face of 

Icelandic gay youth 

Dance and the New Years Eve Party. 

There is also a Christmas Bingo night. 

The group also organizes special 

Gay Dances in the darker months of 

October, November and February.


Dancing at the annual Bears on Ice gathering. 

MSC Arctic Darkness Party 

Venue varies. Tel: 893 9552 


A Gala dinner in leather at a 

fabulous restaurant opens this annual 

two-day weekend event at the end 

of November celebrating the long 

nights of Icelandic winters. Fine food, 

plentiful alcohol, and a variety of raffl e 

prizes are hallmarks of the feast, which 

is followed by a party at the MSC club 

house. The weekend fi nishes Sunday 

with a special themed dress code party, 

also held at the MSC club house. 

Iceland Drag Queen 

and King Competition 

Various venues 

For the past 12 years, this popular 

competition has preceded the annual 

Gay Pride celebaton in Reykjavik. It’s

usually held on the Wednesday before 

the Pride Parade, and features some 

really serious competition, fabulous 

outfi ts, and much hilarity. Fun that 

even non-Icelandic speakers can 

thoroughly enoy. 

Other fabulous events 

The largest blowout of the year occurs 

on New Year’s Eve. At this point, 

Reykjavik sees the sun for about three 

hours a day, so it’s not unexpected that 

they would usher out the year with an 

enormous fi reworks display. Fireworks 

are on sale from December 27 until 

January 6. Citizens go berserk, buying 

all they can afford. Just before midnight 

the noise and light begin, and continue 

until 6 in the morning. 

Other important events include: 

Last Day of Yule (January 6), with 

the lighting of enormous bonfi res 

Winter Lights Festival (February) 

Reykjavik Art Festival (May-June) 

Festival of the Sea (June) 

Ultra Marathon (July), a crosscountry 

race through some of Iceland’s 

most scenic places 

Reykjavik Marathon (August) 

Reykjavik Cultural Night (on the 

same day as the marathon) 

Iceland Airwaves (October), an 

enormous international music festival 

sponsored by Icelandair featuring 

bands from across the globe 

Reykjavik Jazz Festival (November). 



Ingi Hauksson 

Ingi is the most “out” person with 

AIDS in Iceland. Diagnosed 17 

years ago, he joined the country’s 

AIDS organization, and discovered 

the best way he could receive 

support was to give it. He became 

an activist, and has worked with 

the group ever since, taking a 

leadership role that he never 

expected to have. He’s a member of 

the board, and serves as Director of 

Education. “In one year, we visited 

all the country’s 140 schools” 

he says. “I see the great changes 

that have happened since I was 

diagnosed because of all the work 

that’s been done. I feel comfortable 

being out anywhere in Iceland.” At 

47 his health is good, and he plans 

on living to enjoy more years as a 

grandfather to the children of his 

21-year-old daughter. “I tell my 

friends I’m going to be a boring 

old homosexual,” he says. “I am 

going to be a bitch as well. I do 

know that! You can count on it.”


Let’s get physical 

Nature and adventure 

Born of fire, sculpted by ice, water, and wind, the lure of Iceland’s wild, 

raw landscapes appeals to visitors ranging from adventurous off-road 

travelers to those preferring the comfort and security of tour buses, 

hotels, and cocktails at the end of the day. To visit Iceland and spend all 

one’s time in Reykjavik is to miss the country’s star attraction, its natural 

beauty. Some of the world’s most startling scenery is here. There are 

several ways in which to experience this wild and rugged land, from day 

trips that begin and end in Reykjavik to extended driving or flying trips 

that take you to the far reaches of this volcanic island.

Hiking, biking, four-wheel-drive 

jeep trips, horseback riding, whale 

watching, fishing, and sports 

opportunities are available to both 

intrepid travelers, and those with a 

more cautious outlook. 

There is no place in Iceland that isn’t 

covered by one or more organized tour 

operators. Excursions range from a 

few hours to several days or weeks. 

Special trips for horseback riders, 

hikers, and bicyclers are available. 

You can see it all from the window 

of a bus, travel by snowmobile across 

a glacier, or go on a four-wheel-drive 

trek into the interior regions where 

roads have no pavement, rivers no 

bridges. Take an existing tour, or let an 

operator customize one for you. Buy 

a multi-day bus pass and create your 

own travel saga. Rent a car and go 

where you want when you want. Fly 

to the north and pick up a rental car 

at the airport. Go camping or stay in 

a hotel. There is something for every 

interest, every energy level. 

For short stays 

Southwest Iceland 

For those who have only a few 

days to spend in Iceland, the area 

surrounding Reykjavik affords 

ample opportunity to see some of the 

country’s spectacular sights. At the 

top of the list is what is called The 

Let’s get physical 77 

Golden Circle, an area just across the 

mountains to the east of Reykjavik. 

Gullfoss (the Golden Falls) is 

considered to be the most beautiful 

waterfall in Iceland, surely the most 

popular. Here the Hvítá River thunders 

down 105 feet in two drops, hurling up 

spray and mist and providing beautiful 

rainbows on sunny days. 

Just a few kilometers to the west 

of the falls is Geysir, an area of 

bubbling mud holes, steaming vents, 

and erupting water spouts. The Great 

Geysir, from which all the world’s 

geysers take their name, has been 

dormant since 1916. Strokur, its 

smaller sister, is impressive enough, 

and erupts every few minutes. 

Below, Strokur, smaller sister of the Great 

Geysir, continues to perform at regular intervals.


The Golden Circle also includes 

some of Iceland’s most historic sites. 

Skálholt, just off the road from 

Selfoss to Geysir, is the location of 

the first Christian bishopric in Iceland. 

Thingvellir National Park includes the 

site where the Icelandic Althing was 

founded in 930. Here you can even see 

a part of the rift that is created by the 

drifting of the continental plates. It’s 

one of the few places where you can 

stand with a foot on each continent! 

The trip takes you through 

mountainous countryside and off the 

beaten path, past sprawling lava fields 

and large volcanic craters, and winds 

Gullfoss (Golden Falls) is one of the most 

popular of Iceland’s attractions. 

along farm fields where Icelandic 

horses and sheep roam. Spending a 

day here is like taking a mini-tour of 

the whole of Iceland. 

Traveling the Golden Circle need 

not be strenuous. Bus tour operators 

in Reykjavik offer daily guided 

excursions. Another possibility is to 

drive yourself. Car rental companies 

provide excellent maps and printed 

directions. Some also provide a CD 

you can pop into the car’s player, 

which gives directions and narration 

as you go. 

For those who like their nature a 

bit tamer and laced with more tourist 

amenities, the Reykjanes Peninsula 

offers opportunities to be outside the

urban landscape without ever being 

far from the comforts of settlement. In 

spite of a denser population, the visitor 

can take advantage of numerous hiking 

and biking trails, or opportunities to 

see some of the countryside from the 

back of an Icelandic horse. The land 

around the Reykjanesviti Lighthouse 

at the southwest tip of the peninsula is 

a popular walking and hiking area. 

Just 10 kilometers from Reykjavik 

is the harbor town of Hafnarfjördur. 

Known as “the town in the lava,” it 

sits on a 10,000-year-old lava field, 

and enjoys the distinction of having 

Iceland’s largest Huldufolk population 

(see page 81) living in its lava cliffs, 

rocks, and fissures. Walking in town, 

you can see instances of how humans 

have been careful to accommodate 

the needs of these hidden people. 

The street Merkurgata, for example, 

narrows to avoid disturbing a 

protruding elf cliff. Iceland’s only 

Viking restaurant, Fjörukráin, is 

located on the waterfront, as is the 

town’s Viking Museum. 

The country’s most popular tourist 

attraction (70 percent of all travelers to 

Iceland make the visit), is also located 

on the Reykjanes Peninsula, just a 

40-minute drive from Reykjavik. The 

Blue Lagoon (see page 94) provides a 

chance to relax in a vast pool of warm 

water taken from more than a mile 

beneath the earth’s surface. Extracted 


A visit to the Blue Lagoon during the MSC 

Leather Summit. 

by a nearby power plant, water is 

channeled to the lagoon following a 

process that lowers its temperature to 

a comfortable 100 degrees Fahrenheit. 

The Blue Lagoon has recently added a 

full spa offering a variety of massage 

and body treatments. 

There are two other spots where 

you can experience Iceland’s beauty 

during a short stay. On the southern 

rim of the highlands, Thorsmork is a 

designated nature reserve and hikers’ 

paradise. It is divided into three areas, 

only one of which can be reached by 

road. Landmannalaugar is a hotbed 

of geothermal activity, complete with


Icelandic horses graze on the 

Snaefelsnes Peninsula 

springs where the water is actually 

cooled enough for travelers to take a 

dip. This spot can also be reached by 

car. Regularly scheduled daylong bus 

tours are available to both destinations 

during the summer months. 

Snaefellsnes Peninsula 

For people planning a longer stay 

in Iceland, venturing farther from the 

Reykjavik home base can provide 

additional opportunities for outdoor 

adventure and wilderness exploration. 

The Snaefellsnes Peninsula, its 

backbone a jagged mountain range, 

is home to one of Iceland’s smaller 

glaciers, with its own lore. Sitting 

atop an inactive volcanic cone at 

the very tip of the peninsula, the 

Snaefellsnesjökull was the starting 

point for Jules Verne’s fi ctional 

Journey to the Center of the Earth. 

The glacier is believed by some to be 

one of the seven energy centers of the 

earth and is the site of several New 

Age gatherings each year. The best 

and safest time to be on the glacier is 

in late spring and early summer, and 

climbing is relatively easy, taking 

about four or fi ve hours each way. 

Most hikers use the fi shing hamlet of 

Arnarstapi as their point of departure. 

You can also take the easy way, and 

ascend via jeep or go part of the way 

by snowmobile. 

The peninsula presents several 

different landscapes. The south shore 

is sandy and relatively smooth in

Where there are 

elves, can faeries 

be far behind? 

Icelanders are very respectful 

of the elves and other “hidden 

people” that live in their midst. 

In the town of Grundafjordur, 

the authorities have offi cially 

zoned land having rocks known 

to house elves so that no human 

development can occur there. 

Elves are respected citizens 

in Hafnarfjordur. Here also the 

town has designated areas as 

elf localities where humans can 

not build. Elves have control 

over decisions relating to new 

construction in the town. If 

buildings, roads, or underground 

constructions disturb an elf home, 

all kinds of mechanical failures 

and accidents ensue. When these 

events occur, an elf-medium, or 

seer, is brought in to negotiate a 

suitable settlement with the elves. 

In 1999, some diffi culty was 

encountered in building the new 

tunnel at Hvalfjordur. Construction 

equipment went into failure 

whenever it got too near a boulder 

that was to be moved. An elf-seer 

was immediately consulted. She 

told the project director the elves 


were willing to move, but needed 

more time. The time was granted, 

and the woman returned on the 

appointed day, ascertained that the 

elves had moved, and announced 

work could resume. 

Similarly, when the shopping 

mall Smáralind was recently 

under construction, underground 

electrical cables were carefully 

placed to avoid disturbance to the 

unseen habitat. 

In the northern town of Akureyri, 

the Krossanes Cliffs contain the 

Stofuklopp Rock. A few decades 

ago, the decision was made to 

quarry some of the rock. In the 

nick of time, as dynamite was 

being placed, the project foreman 

learned that within the rock was a 

settlement of hidden people. Work 

stopped. A young boy gifted as 

a seer was summoned, and after 

several discussions with the elves, 

it was agreed that they would 

move farther down the cliff to a 

new home. Work resumed. 

Do you actually believe in elves? 

an Icelander is asked. “Oh, no,” 

comes the emphatic response. So 

you think jobs should proceed 

without these negotiations? “No, 

I’d never say that. I think things 

work very well the way they are.”


its contour, with little settlement. 

Roads through the mountains offer 

spectacular vistas and views of tall 

sharp peaks. The north shore is more 

irregular, with some scenic fjords 

and rocky sea stacks. Here you will 

find most of the populace huddled in 

several small towns at the shore. The 

largest of the towns, Stykkisholmur, 

is a cluster of new buildings and 

picturesque old houses. If you’re able 

to spend more than a day in the region, 

it is the best town to use as your base. 

This region of the Snaefellsnes 

peninsula is noted for its natural 

beauty and wildlife. There are several 

enjoyable hikes to be made within 

the area. Nearby, the mountains of 

Helgafell and Kerlingarfjall provide 

added opportunity for some relatively 

easy climbing with the reward of 

spectacular scenery. 

From Stykkisholmur harbor, visitors 

can take cruises out to the islands in 

Breidafjordur Bay, or catch a ferry 

across the bay to the West Fjords 

region of the country. 

For longer stays 

The West Fjords 

Reaching out to the northeast toward 

Greenland like a mutant lobster with 

too many claws, the West Fjords 

Below, the harbor at Stykkisholmur. 

Opposite page: Top, view of the West Fjords 

from NASA satellite LandSat 7.

egion includes some of the most 

spectacular scenery of the country. 

Mountains with broad cliffs rise out of 

the sea. There is little flat land suitable 

for farming, and residents depend on 

the sea for their livelihood. Scattered 

fishing villages cling to mountain 

bases along the fjords. 

In recent years, conditions in the 

area have improved for travelers. 

More roads have been paved, and 

most are clear and passable during 

winter months. Nevertheless, if you 

are visiting this region in the winter 

and planning to drive, stay informed 


about weather conditions as you go. 

During the summer, conditions on the 

main roads, both paved and unpaved, 

pose little challenge for drivers. 

Using Stykkisholmur as a base, you 

can easily explore the southern area of 

the region once you are off the ferry 

at Brjanslaekur. Many people drive 

north from there, through the village 

of Flókalundur to the Dynjandi 

Falls, also known as Fjallfoss. It is 

one of the most beautiful in Iceland, 

with a drop of 325 feet from the top of 

a ridge. It fans out as it descends, and 

becomes a series of smaller falls at the 

bottom. Linked by a scenic mountain 

road, the nearby Dyrafjordur and 

Arnafjordur fjords are breathtaking. 

The westernmost point of Europe 

is also easy to reach from the 

Stykkisholmur ferry. Located at the 

southwest corner of the West Fjords, 

the big attraction here is the awesome 

nine-mile stretch of sea cliffs that rises 

at one point to a height of nearly 1500 

feet. The cliffs are home to hundreds 

of thousands of sea birds, including 

guillemots, razorbills, kittiwakes


and fulmars, and those ever alluring 

puffi ns. The landscape, combined 

with the raucous screeching of the 

birds, gives the place a truly wild and 

haunting atmosphere. 

Isafjordur (population 3,000) 

is the region’s largest town, and 

is recommended as a base for any 

extended exploration of the fjords. 

Perched on a spit of land jutting out into 

a fjord at the foot of Mount Eyrafjall, 

Isafjordur began as a trading town in 

the 1700s. Many travelers choose to 

fl y here from Reykjavik and rent a car 

for local exploration. Bus tours from 

Isafjordur are also a possibility in 

summer months when both foreigners 

and Icelanders swell the population. 

There are a very few gay folk living 

here, and others often come from 

Reykjavik to work in the hotels and 

restaurants for the summer. However, 

your gaydar must be very fi nely tuned. 

There is no public gay life and gay 

people keep tightly to themselves and 

their small group. 

Unlike the Snaefellsnes Peninsula, 

which can be seen during a day trip 

from Reykjavik, the West Fjords 

require more time. A one or two night 

stay here will provide the time needed 

to fully enjoy nature’s version of 

“shock and awe” for those who want 

to experience the whole region. The 

West Fjords offer many possibilities 

for walking trips and riding horseback. 

The West Fjords Tourist Association 

has published a map for some areas 

that shows and describes short walks. 

The map can be obtained in tourist 

centers in the West Fjords as well as 

in hotels, restaurants, and other places 

popular with visitors. 

The Hornstrandir Peninsula, in the 

northwest corner, is the wildest part 

of the region, a place where you feel 

you are on the very edge of the livable 

world. It is accessible from Isafjordur 

by ferry. These now-uninhabited 

fjords have been designated as a 

nature preserve. While visitor services 

are sparse to non-existent, the area’s 

nature and geology make it an inviting 

place for hiking. Traveling explorers 

will come across abandoned farms and 

churches, some of which are now being 

carefully restored. Scenery doesn’t get 

much more striking than this. 

Dynjandi Falls in the West Fjords is one of 

Iceland’s most beautiful.

Akureyri and the North 

For gays and lesbians traveling 

extensively through Iceland, Akureyri 

is a welcome oasis of civilization. It is 

Iceland’s second-largest metropolitan 

area, boasting a population of just 

over 15,000 inhabitants. Its cozy 

cafes, excellent restaurants, and 

cosmopolitan atmosphere can serve as 

a welcome respite after several days 

on the road. In the winter, native and 

visitors fl ock here to ski. It is also the 

only city or town outside of Reykjavik 

where there is a recently-organized gay 


Akureyri is also an excellent 

destination in and of itself, and serves 

as a perfect base for exploring the 

north of Iceland. While natives claim 

they can drive there from Reykjavik in 

a dead four hours, fi ve hours is a more 

reasonable expectation for visitors. 

Akureyri has its own airport, so there 

is again the possibility to fl y from 

Reykjavik (a 45-minute fl ight), and 

rent a car when you arrive. 

An essential day trip, or ideally an 

overnight, from Akureyri takes you 

past the famous Godafoss (Gods’ Falls) 

Lance at Large 

Moby’s dick...and then some! 

There’s more than whale watching in Husavik, and this sure is one for the 

guys – or those with scientifi c curiosity. Icelanders simply refer to the Iceland 

Phallological Museum as “the Penis Museum,” and it contains a collection 

of over one hundred and fi fty penises and penile parts belonging to almost all 

the land and sea mammals that can be found in Iceland – except us fabulous 

Homo Sapiens. Not to worry, there’s no need to line up, boys. An Icelander 

and a fellow from Colorado have both bequeathed their private parts to 

this tiny curatorial outpost. We 

can only hope they are equal to 

the task of representing the rest 

of us! The museum is located at 

Hedinsbraut 3a, in Husavik. Open 

daily May 20 through September 

10, noon to 6 pm. All other times 

by appointment. Tel: 566 8668. 

Left: Diana, right: Eyglo



Hrafnhildur (Hrabba) 

Gunnarsdóttir 

When Hrabba came out in 1980 

at age 16, Iceland was not the 

accepting society it is today. As 

soon as she was 21, she headed to 

San Francisco. “I had heard of the 

gay movement there,” she says. She 

studied journalism at UC Berkeley, 

but became more interested in 

documentary fi lm. She did media 

work for the San Francisco AIDS 

Foundation, as well as work for 

PBS. In 1999 life took a new turn 

when she got a job shooting a 

documentary about Palestinians in 

the Lebanese refugee camps. She 

returned to Iceland in 2003, and 

soon released her international 

award winning Hrein & Bein 

(Straight Out), a documentary fi lm 

about coming out in rural Iceland. 

She served two years as chair of 

Samtokin ‘78. Today she is hard 

at work on a fi lm about Iceland’s 

women’s soccer team, and one about 

the thirty-year campaign to gain 

equal rights for gays in Iceland. 

to the Lake Mývatn region, which 

is one of the most popular and most 

impressive destinations in Iceland’s 

interior. Designated as a national 

conservation area in 1974, the lake is 

a vital wildlife breeding ground and is 

home to 15 duck species, the largest 

number found in a single location in 

all of Europe, and tens of thousands 

of birds. Translated as “Midge Lake,” 

you’ll fi nd yourself swarmed by the 

pesky insects in the summer, although 

fi sh fi nd them delicious. Some of 

Iceland’s biggest salmon and best trout 

fi shing are found in Lake Mývatn and 

the numerous streams feeding it. 

The surroundings of Lake Myvatn 

are the most volcanically active in 

Iceland, if not on Earth, and visitors 

can experience some of the strangest 

landforms imaginable. 

In short non-strenuous hikes you 

can trek into breath-taking volcanic 

craters, such as Hverfjall; wander 

among bizarre lava pillars, arches, 

and crumbling lava-sheet canyons 

at Dimmuborgir; and experience 

sulfurous gas, bubbling mud pools, and 

roaring steam vents at Hverarönd. 

A few miles to the north and east of 

Mývatn, the more daring traveler can 

bypass the warning signs to singe their 

soles exploring the recently active 

Krafl a Caldera and fi ssures, where 

the spectacular “Krafl a fi res” eruptions 

lit the region through the 1970s and

1980s, spewing curtains of molten 

rock into the sky and pouring fresh 

lava across miles of ground. While 

fascinating, the amateur explorer 

should approach this area with caution, 

as this system is expected to erupt 

again at anundeterminable moment. 

Heading east on the Ring Road 

(Route 1) from Lake Mývatn, your trip 

will take you across some of the most 

stark, barren landscape you’ll fi nd 

anywhere on Earth. In fact, this stretch 

gives you a good picture of what the 

astronauts trekked across on the moon. 

The resemblance is so authentic that 

the Apollo 11 crew trained for their 

moonwalks nearby. Extending miles in 


all directions, the vast, gray, boulderstrewn 

basalt surface is evidence of 

the furious glacial outburst fl oods, or 

jökulhlaups, that stripped and scoured 

the land, as torrents of meltwater, 

caused by volcanic eruptions beneath 

Vatnajökull to the distant south, rushed 

northward to the sea. 

Diverting north from the Ring Road 

at Grimsstadir, a dirt track traces 

across the desolate landscape leading 

to Dettifoss, the largest waterfall in 

all of Europe. While it’s slow-going 

and bumpy, the reward at the end will 

leave you speechless: thunderous falls 

The dramatc canyon at Dettifoss


charge into a canyon carved deep into 

ancient lava flows, all in a pristine, 

natural setting, leaving you feeling 

like you’ve touched Earth’s very soul. 

Travelers should note: at this point, 

you will be some distance from 

overnight accommodation. You can 

drive back to Akureyri, or continue 

north to Husavik, Iceland’s whale 

watching capital and home to several 

comfortable hotels. 

The South Shore 

Another exploration can be made by 

traveling east from Reykjavik, over 

the mountains, and along the country’s 

beautiful south shore, eastward to the 

glacier Vatnajökull. Flat agricultural 

areas hug the coast, with mountains 

rising to the north. This is one of the 

most popular regions for visitors; 

whatever your interests – geology, 

history, nature, or the experience 

of adventure – you will be happy 

spending some time here. 

About halfway between Reykjavik 

and the glacier is the southernmost 

town of Vik. The landscape in this area 

commands attention. Just to the east, 

you can find a huge breeding area for 

puffins and other native sea birds. The 

opportunities for short scenic hikes 

are abundant. Nearby, impressive 

rock columns called reynisdrangar 

rise grandly from the ocean. 

The much-photographed lava rock 

Svartifoss in Skaftafell National Park 

arch can be seen at neighboring 

Dyrholaey. One of the easiest ways to 

experience the drama of the shore is to 

take a sea/land sight-seeing trip from 

Vik. To the north of Vik is Katla, one 

of Iceland’s most active volcanoes. 

It erupts about twice every hundred 

years, and is now overdue for its next 

display of its fireworks. 

From Vik, travel on to Skaftafell 

National Park, sitting right next to 

Vatnajökull. Here you can actually 

walk out onto the glacier, although care 

must be taken not to get too near the 

edge of the large crevasses into which 

careless visitors have fallen. Climbing 

up the glaciers without guides and 

proper equipment is not advised, 

Serious accidents have occurred. 

The park has several hiking trails,

including one leading to the stunning 

Svartifoss (Black Falls) with its 

unusual hexagonal basalt columns that 

hang from the edge of the cliff, giving 

the appearance of a huge pipe organ. 

Nowhere else in the country can 

one experience such a breadth of 

nature. Canyons, glacial lakes, ice 

tunnels, rushing mountain waters and 

glacial rivers, lush vegetation, jagged 

outcroppings, and strong mountain 

peaks are all to be seen in Skaftafell. 

A few kilometers to the east of the 

park is Jökulsárlón, known simply 

as the Iceberg Lagoon, where an arm 

of the huge glacier descends. Huge 

chunks of ice break off and float in 

the small lake. These icebergs, snowy 

white and marred by black rock 

on the top layers, are a sparkling 

crystal blue in their lower layers due 

to the incredible density of the ice. 

Amphibious boat tours are available. 

HELP ! 

Contemplating a trip to Iceland may 

at times seem a bit overwhelming. 

Choosing between myriad natural 

wonders while at the same time 

enjoying the adventure of four wheel 

drive exploration, horseback riding, 

biking, kayaking, snowmobiling, 

white water rafting, hiking, walking 

on glaciers, fording unbridged rivers 

– well, it’s choices, choices, choices! 

Icelanders understand this dilemma, 


and over the past two decades, 

companies have sprung up to help. 

Read on. Help is at hand. 

The following companies both in and 

out of Iceland are adept at helping you 

narrow your choices to those which 

best suit your personal expectations, 

thereby insuring you peace of mind, 

lightness of spirit, and absence of a 

nervous breakdown! 

In Reykjavik 

For those who define hiking as a 

walk to the mail box, there are two 

companies located in Reykjavik who 

are happy to insure that you get all the 

visual benefits of Iceland without too 

much strain on muscles or nerves. 

Mountain biking in Iceland’s challenging 

and beautiful interior


Iceland Excursions 

Funahöfda 17. Tel: 540 1313 

Website: www.icelandexcursions.is 

Offers several excursions of varying 

durations to scenic and popular 

destinations outside Reykjavik. 

Coaches are comfortable. Average 

tour duration is six to eight hours. 

Reykjavik Excursions 

Vid Hlídarfót. Tel: 562 1011 

Website: www.re.is 

Offering the same type of excursions 

as the listing above. Check both as 

prices can sometimes vary between 

these two main competitors. Free van 

pick-up from your hotel. 

For Greater Iceland 

If you’ve kept up with your exercise 

regimen, eaten well, and posess a more 

adventuresome spirit, get ready for 

some serious action. There are several 

folks you can turn to for assistance. 

Air Iceland 

at the reyukjavik airport. Tel: 570-3030 

Website: www.airiceland.is 

Iceland’s domestic air carrier, operates 

fl ights to the major towns outside 

Reykjavik, and also to Greenland. It’s 

popular with visitors who don’t have 

much time but still wish to see some of 

the more remote areas of the country. 

Special fl ight and car rental packages 

are available. Check their website. 

Eskimos Adventure Company 

Skútuvogur 1b.. Tel: 354 414 1500 

Website: www.eskimos.is 

Based in Reykjavik, this company 

has established strong relationships 

with gay friendly hotels, venues, and 

suppliers throughout the country. Four 

wheel drive trips to exotic and remote 

Iceland destinations are the draw here. 

Call before you go, and these folks can 

prearrange all your needs while you are 

in Iceland. An excellent detail-oriented 

group of travel experts. 

Mountain Taxi 

Trönuhraun 7c, Hafnarfjordur. 

Tel: 544 5252 

Website: www.arcticsafari.is 

These folks know what they’re 

doing, and their drivers dare to go 

where few have gone before. Specially 

equipped four-wheel drive jeeps will 

take you into the country’s interior for 

an experience you won’t forget. This 

company is ideal for those who like to 

organize their own tour, or who want a 

guided trip for a small group. 

In the United States 

There are also those among us who 

just love to travel, but who absolutely 

loathe the entire process of planning 

anything much more complicated than 

a weekend on Fire Island, or at the 

Russian River. Not to worry, there’s a 

service for all types of traveler!


They forced me. I loved it! 


I hate it when people get me to do something I don’t want to do. If it means 

I have to wear hiking gear – well, you get the picture. Let me say: I was not 

looking forward to fi ve days of circumnavigating the volcanic wilderness 

of Iceland with two colleagues in a rental car, the task thrust upon me. 

Sometimes, however, I can be so wrong! After a one-hour sulk, I returned to 

adulthood. And guess what! Take it from me. If you have the time, and are 

traveling in a group, there is no better way to see Iceland. Nothing anyone 

tells you can prepare you for the incredible nature – incredibly bizarre, 

yet beautiful at the same time. Every 

time we turned a corner or went over 

a rise, the landscape changed. Check 

out these weird lava formations we 

saw. Sometimes we thought we were 

on the moon. Half an hour later, we 

were looking up the long valley behind 

this abandoned guest house, complete 

with snow-capped mountains in early summer. I really was rendered 

speechless. I would not have missed it all for anything. 

I must add some practical advice. Learn to manage a love-hate relationship 

with the gas stations that dot the roadsides. Get 

gas, for sure. But don’t partake of the proffered 

food. Sandwiches in the car are far preferable. 

When you see a grocery store, stock up with bread, 

ham, chips, drinks, and other easy foods.. Carry 

a good map, a good guide book to interior and 

coastal Iceland, and the directories from Foss 

Hotels, Icelandair Hotels, and Edda Hotels. They 

can save your life in the far reaches of Iceland. 

My penultimate piece of advice as this book 

comes to an end? Just do it. You’ll love it!


Alyson Adventures 

923 White St. Key West, FL. 

Tel: 866 294 8174 

Website: www. alysonadventures.com 

Alyson Adventures has always had a 

reputation for taking gay and lesbian 

folk to exotic spots. The company 

offers two gay trips to Iceland: North 

of the Moon, a biking adventure, and 

Vikings and Volcanoes, a trip that 

combines both biking and hiking. Both 

Call or check website for availability. 

Iceland Adventure 

Millerton, NY. Tel: 888-686-6784 

Website:www.icelandadventure.com 

theatre and ballet tickets are all neatly 

When Holly Nelson and Brad Vogel 

fi rst went to Iceland, they fell in love 

with the Icelandic horse. Today the 

couple organizes exceptional Iceland 

adventure and horse back tours, and 

can also help plan a more personal 

trip for one or for a large group. A very 

gay-friendly partnership. 

Iceland Saga Travel 

Nantucket, MA. Tel:866 723 7242 

Website: www.icelandsagatravel.com 

One of the most expert companies 

you’ll fi nd when it comes to Iceland 

travel. These folks plan, coordinate and 

book trips and tours for individuals, 

families, and groups. Horseback riding,

fi shing, whale watching, rafting, super 

jeep excursions, symphony, opera, 

arranged and scheduled, leaving time 

to pursue spur of the moment whims. 

Icelandair Holidays 

Tel: 800 223 5500 

Website: www.icelandair.com 

Icelandair’s own specialized tour 

organization, offering Reykjavik fl ight 

and hotel packages, driving holidays, 

escorted tours, soft adventure tours, 

wellness holidays, and nightlife 

adventures. These folks are very 

gay-friendly, and all their tours have 

received high ratings from gay and 

lesbian travelers. 

LT Travel 

13 Bradley Ct., Brewster, NY 

Tel: 800-711-7242 

Website: www.lttravel.com 

A full service travel agency with an 

added expertise in all that pertains to 

Iceland. Lina, owner of the agency 

was born in Iceland. Her knowledge is 

vast and up to date.. 

Out West Global Adventures 

P.O. Box 2050, Red Lodge, MT. 

Tel: 406 446 1533 

Website: www.outwestadventures.com 

This award winning gay travel group 

organizes periodic suumer gay and 

lesbian trips to Iceland. check their 

website for schedued trps. 



David Örn Thorkelsson 

Few Icelanders have grown up in 

more isolated surroundings than 

David did. The town of Bolungarvik 

(pop. ca 900) clings to the shore 

of one of the northernmost 

Western Fjords. There is a school, 

swimming pool, and shops. As a 

teen, David told no one he was gay. 

Once he fi nished school, he made 

tracks to Reykjavik. Life got better, 

then worse, then much better. His 

straight older brother Kristjan lives 

nearby when he is not at sea fi shing, 

and will sometimes join David for 

drinks at the MSC Club. “David 

created a gay family for himself,” 

says Kristjan. “And I have found 

they are really my family as well.” 

Today David is happy in his fouryear 

relationship with boyfriend 

Siggi, likes his job at Iceland’s 

largest book distributor, and has 

myriad friends. “I know home is 

with Siggi. It’s a great feeling.”


Internet resources 

GENERAL – ALL ICELAND 

http://www.iceland.org – comprehensive 

site on Iceland culture, government, 

tourism, and more. 

www.goiceland.org – Iceland Tourist 

Board 

www.icetourist.is – Another site of the 

Iceland Tourist Board 

www.allrahanda.is – General tourism 

information 

www.travelnet.is – General tourism 



A Final word: The best leave-taking 

There’s no way around it. airports and their procedures can be challenging 

to even the most intrepid. Iceland has come up with a delightful way to make 

the process more enjoyable. The Blue Lagoon is a geothermal spa and one 

of the most-visited attractions in the country. Its water, sourced from a mile 

below the earth’s surface, is rich in minerals and 

silica, and stays at a fairly constant 100 degrees. 

To spend time fl oating in its healing waters is the 

perfect way to prepare for the rigors of the airport 

and the fl ight home. The Fly Bus offers you a 

hassle-free trip to the airport with a stop at the Blue 

Lagoon en route. Your luggage remains locked 

in the bus while you fl oat blissfully in the warm 

waters. Massage and other spa treatments are 

available, as are a bar and full service restaurant. 

The fare, including admission is 5400 ISK. 

GENERAL ADVENTURE 

www.mountainguide.is – Mountain and 

glacier guided treks 

www.mountaineers.is/jeeptours.html 

– Jeep tours for small and large groups 

www.adventures.is – comprehensive 

offerings for exploring wild Iceland 

www.farmholidays.is – try the rural life 

REYKJANES PENINSULA 

www.dolphin.is – whale and dolphin 

watching 

www.lax-a.is – Fishing information 

www.ishestar.is – Horse riding tours

SNAEFELLSNES PENINSULA 

www.goiceland.org/page.php?32 

– Iceland Tourist Board. General 


www.snjofell.is – General tourism 


www.west.is – General tourist information 

www.simnet.is/kverna – Lodging, tours, 

horseback riding 

www.hellnar.is – Hotel and activities 

Stykkisholmur 

www.stykkisholmur.is – General tourist 


www.saeferdir.is – Dolphin and whale 

watching tours 

www.kayak.vef.is/english – Kayak rentals 

with and without guides 

THE WEST FJORDS 

www.westfjords.is – General information 

www.vesturferdir.is – regional tours 

www.vestfi rdir.is/kayak/index.html 

– kayaking adventures 

Isafjordur 

www.isafjordur..is – General tourist 



NORTH ICELAND 

Akureyri 

/www.nordurland.is/default.asp?cat_ 

id=27 – General tourist information 

http://english.sba.is/ – Tours in the region 

www.polarhestar.is/e/index.html – Horse 

riding tours 

www.akureyri.is/hlidarfjall/english 

– Skiing information 

www.sporttours.is – Everything outdoors 

Husavik 

http://www.husavik.is/?sport=english 

– General information 

www.northsailing.is – Whale watching 

and tours 

www.icewhale.is -- Husavik whale center 

MYVATN 

http://www.myvatn.is/english/ – General 

information on lake region activities 

SOUTH ICELAND 

www.east.is – General tourist info 

www.south.is – General information 

www.vatnajokull.com – Trips onto the 

glacier 

www.hofsnes.com/welcome.htm 

– Glacier hikes


Reykjavik center 

Maps 97


West Fjords 

Isafjördur 

Stykkishólmur 

Snaefellsnes 

Peninsula 

Reykjavik 

Dynjandi 

Falls 

Reykjanes 

Peninsula 

Gullfoss and 

Geysir

Akureyri 

Dettifoss 

Lake Myvatn 

Skaftafell 

National Park 

Maps 99 

Iceland

Welcome to our comprehensive gay and lesbian guide to 

exciting Iceland. GetawayGay is pleased to provide you 

with this free e-book in cooperation with our partners: 

The Icelandic Tourist Board 

Icelandair 

Visit Reykjavik 

Gayice.is 

Iceland Saga Travel 

Alyson Adventures 

IÐA 

Iceland is one of the world’s most advanced nations 

when it comes to full acceptance of its gay and lesbian 

citizens. You will find a welcoming people, a vibrant city 

nightlife, a completely hassle-free environment, and 

opportunities to experience life in the adventure lane. 

One of Europe’s most pristine countries, Iceland is one 

of its best kept secrets, a vast natural playground filled 

with opportunities for unique encounters with nature and 

pampered relaxation in civilization. 

This guide will introduce you to the unique possibilities 

of Iceland. You’ll learn of its gay history, check out the 

gay life and customs, find hotels, sights, and restaurants, 

and meet members of an exciting queer community. 

Isn’t it time you discovered something astonishing? 

® 

Iceland 

Iceland Edited by Reed Ide

Lance at Large - Icelandic Tourist Board

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